_THE GABLE NEEDLE_
The best-known rock problem in the district is offered by the Gable
Needle. Its position has already been defined. As we walk towards
Styhead from Esk Hause the Needle stands out from the west face of the
Gable very plainly; but from Wastdale it is almost invisible against
the background of the indistinguishable Napes rocks, and only those
who know exactly where it should be are bold enough to say where it
is. Very few people seem to have seen it before 1886, when Mr. Haskett
Smith reached the top, though Mr. Wilson Robinson made a pencil
outline-sketch of both the Needle and the Bear rock as long ago as
1828. Many even who were acquainted with the crags of the Napes had
not noticed it. The fact is that a face of rock is very apt to look
flat and void of detail at a short distance; and it is the joy of the
rock-climber to discover its thousand beauties when he engages with it
at close quarters.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE GABLE NEEDLE
(_Face page 168_)]
The Needle is indeed a fine fellow as rocks go--just the sort of
ornament for one’s back garden in town, a gymnasium in itself. It has
now many admirers. The few footholds on the top boulder bear the
marks of many nailed boots, even its smooth face is scored by futile
scrapes of the nervous, but it retains its charm for the Wastdale
enthusiast. In his dreams he takes a hammer and chisel, and chips away
an important hold, and with the dreamer’s ease swarms up the rock
unaided. Again a hold is chipped away confidently with the faith that
removes mountains, and again he glides up and down; till at last its
small top draws him up without effort and he hastens down to Wastdale
to invite the attention of climbers to the new edition of the Needle.
Mr. Haskett Smith climbed it alone in 1886 and left a handkerchief on
the top. Those who have been once on the Needle will readily believe
that this first ascent is one of the most daring things that have been
done in the Lake District.
He pointed it out to Mr. John Robinson one day when they were
traversing the face of the Napes on to the Needle _arête_, and they
both agreed that it had a future before it, that their successors in
the field of climbing would make it their resort and perhaps even build
a diminutive shrine on its crest to the discoverer. Nearly three years
elapsed before Mr. Geoffrey Hastings made the second ascent. Then,
in June, 1889, Mr. F. Wellford climbed it, and Mr. Robinson made the
fourth ascent in August. In the following year Professor Marshall’s
party attacked the climb, spending three-quarters of an hour in
flinging a rope over the summit for the benefit of the leader. On that
occasion Miss Koecher reached the top--the first lady, at any rate in
modern times, to succeed in doing so.
Dr. S. and I travelled down to Drigg one night. We breakfasted there
early and walked the twelve miles to Wastdale, halting only for a
plunge into cold Wastwater. After the manner of our kind, we inquired
at once for the Climbing Book, to learn the latest news from the Fells.
The ‘Pall Mall Budget’ article of June 5, 1890, on the Needle, had been
inserted, and we read how it might be vanquished. In the afternoon we
worked our way up to the Napes. Being the more enthusiastic, I found
the Needle first, and was breathless on the top of the crack when Dr.
S. arrived. He threw a rope up from the small platform (seen at the
bottom of the picture facing page 168) and came after me. The crack
up the face seemed difficult that first time; most people find it so.
The first movement obliquely up to the left is easy, but the next part
is a trifle too safe for the new comer. He gets his left thigh almost
hopelessly jammed into the crack, and can move neither up nor down. The
best plan is to work more with the left foot and knee in the crack,
both hands on the edge of the leaf of rock, and the right leg getting
general support by pressure outside, until the most constricted bit
half-way up is passed. Then the leaf of rock can be swarmed up with
much greater ease, and the climber soon finds himself looking down the
other side of the crack.
From here the route for ten feet is directly up the right edge. The
holds are not numerous, but good enough when the rocks are dry, and
we find ourselves on a platform or shoulder, very conspicuous in most
aspects of the pinnacle, that serves as an excellent take-off for the
last struggle. The terrors of the crack often scare off people from the
final piece. They almost did our little party. I found my watch-chain
broken--some links still remain in the heart of the Needle--and my
watch badly dented. The ‘Pall Mall’ had promised us that the last bit
was the worst, and we thought for a moment that a little preliminary
training for a few days would be the correct thing. However, I took off
my boots, for they had no nails, and, standing on a shoulder of Dr.
S;, stepped on to the right end of the ledge on which the top block
rests. This corner is difficult to climb alone and exceedingly daring
work, for the climber drags his body on to it over a sheer drop of a
hundred feet, and feels no certainty of safety till he is up. It is
like climbing on a narrow mantelshelf five feet high, that is only just
wide enough to allow standing room. An ice-axe offers a useful take-off
in the absence of a sufficiently responsible shoulder. The disposition
of one’s centre of gravity must be carefully considered, and there is a
sense of alternate peril and safety in inspiration and expiration. Once
on the ledge the game was evidently in our hands, and traversing along
it to the left I found a rounded boss of rock eighteen inches higher
that offered good hold for both feet. Then the left was brought well
up to a little ledge nearly an inch wide, the right hand gripped the
right edge of the boulder, and on straightening out the top edge could
be grasped. An arm pull was helped by sundry roughnesses for the toes,
and I sprawled half across the top triumphantly. In a couple of minutes
Dr. S. was by my side. We had no intention of climbing higher that day,
and willingly spent half an hour in examining the routes of the Napes’
ridges, two of which are seen to advantage from this spot.
We descended without serious difficulty, Dr. S. going first. I
half decided to fix our rope round the top block and use it for my
own descent, but it would have been an awkward matter to detach it
afterwards. Moreover, others had not found a fixed rope necessary,
and we did not wish to have anything to reproach ourselves about
subsequently. Dr. S. placed himself firmly on the shoulder, drawing in
the rope as it came down. If I fell it would have been on to the rocks
a few feet below him; he would experience no great shock, and could
easily hold me in. The descent was by the exact route of the ascent. On
reaching the crack again we re-adjusted our boots and slid down easily,
the remembrance of the leg-clasping constriction preventing our jamming
in the descent.
Two or three days later we took other men up the Needle. It was like
introducing an old friend. Though I had lost no respect for him, he was
easier to manage and offered new features for inspection.
The side of the Needle facing Lingmell exhibits an obvious alternative
route to the shoulder. The climbing is twelve or fifteen feet longer,
and rather more interesting. Facing the Needle at its foot with our
backs to Lingmell, we bear to the right into a square corner. We pass
up this on the left to a little level platform, reached best by an
armpull and a foothold well away on the buttress. I have seen good men
in much trouble on this corner. From here the route is straight up
the wall, with a halting-place ten feet higher in a huge slit on the
right. Then we climb the same cleft whose other side constitutes the
first part of the old route. This side, however, is wider, and contains
sundry jammed stones for convenience of passengers. The old route is
joined without difficulty, and the shoulder reached as before.
To effect the ascent of the top boulder without help it has always
appeared to me easier to start by standing on the small shelf just
under the left-hand end of the overhanging part--the shelf, in fact,
that is occupied by the sitting figure in the view facing page 168.
Practice on ordinary strong mantelshelves enables one to mount up this
corner with a certainty of success, the right hand being thrust into a
thin horizontal cleft rough enough to offer some friction for the back
of the hand as well as the palm.
If people are at the Needle and wish to explore it, they may like to
know that Mr. W. H. Fowler has shown that the ‘outside edge’ can be
followed from bottom to top. Also, that it is not so difficult to work
from the foot of the ordinary route round to the other side of the
cleft that splits the Needle. To photograph the Needle we usually get
up the other side of the Needle Gully at the foot of the Eagle’s Nest
_arête_. Indeed, this grass ledge is so popular for the observation of
a performance that it is known as the ‘dress circle.’ One photograph
exists of the Needle in which nearly all the climbing details are
masked by a crowd of daring maidens swarming up it. Two have reached
the top, and are supporting a terror-stricken man, who, poor fellow,
had rashly undertaken to lead up. The picture suggests the old problem
of the mediæval theologians--how many angels can balance on the point
of a needle?