One of those things was staged last week and a bomb fell uncomfortably

close to ye hotel. The dent it made in Mother Earth is clearly visible

to the naked eye. I trust the bombers take every other week off. At

dinner we met two American naval officers--a captain from Baltimore and

a lieutenant from Rockford, which is in Illinois. What they told us was

the most interesting stuff I’ve heard yet. But, like all interesting

stuff, it’s forbidden to write it.

_Thursday, September 20. London._

The American naval officers took me to luncheon. After luncheon I went

to the American consul’s where I was viséed. Thence to the Bow Street

station for final registration.

This evening to _The Boy_, a musical play which could use some of the

plot so prodigally expended in _Seven Days’ Leave_. But the music isn’t

bad.

_Friday, September 21. London._

The naval officers and three of us holdup men had a bitter argument

over the respective merits of Baltimore, Dowagiac, Rockford, Niles,

and What Cheer, Iowa, of which Mr. O’Flaherty is a native, and, so

far as I know, the only one. It was finally voted to award What Cheer

first prize for beauty of name, Dowagiac for handsome young men, Niles

for scenic grandeur, Rockford for social gaieties, and Baltimore for

tunnels.

I wanted to do some work, but the rest of the crowd seemed to think

my room was open house for the balance of the day, and here they stuck

despite all efforts to oust them.

To-night it was _Chu Chin Chow_ at His Majesty’s Theater. You have to

keep going to theaters in London. They’re the only places that are lit

up.

_Chu Chin Chow_ is a musical comedy based on _The Forty Thieves_, and

the music, according to our unanimous opinion, is the best since _The

Merry Widow_. I seem to have resigned as war correspondent to accept

a position as dramatic critic. But, as Mr. O’Flaherty says, there’s

nothing to write about the war, and what you do write the censors

massacre.

Our ship still thinks it’s going to sail to-morrow night, and the train

leaves at nine-thirty in the morning. I am to be convoyed to port by

the captain and the lieutenant, whose holiday is over.

_Saturday, September 22. In Bond._

We’re anchored in the middle of the river and have no apparent

intention of moving to-night. And everybody’s out of cigarettes, and

it’s illegal to sell them while we’re in bond, whatever that may mean.

But I guess I’d rather be in it than in a spy’s cell, which seemed to

be my destination at one time to-day.

The United States naval gentlemen were down at the train early and

commandeered the best compartment on it. They had saved a seat for me

and an extra one on general principles. This was awarded to Mr. Hanson,

one of the active members of the French Line conspiracy which caused my

arrest in Bordeaux. I hope he’s seasick all the way home.

On the trip up from London we scored a decisive verbal victory over the

submarines and formulated the terms of peace. Captain Baltimore and

Lieutenant Rockford said farewell at the Liverpool dock and started for

wherever they were going. We found seats in the inspection room and

waited. Mr. Hanson grew impatient at length. He flashed his passport,

a diplomatic one, on the usher and was sent through in a hurry. Not so

with this well-known suspect. I was among the last to be called. My

passport, strangely enough, was approved, but the baggage examination

was yet to come.

I found my four pieces--two containers of clothes and such, a

typewriter, and the ungainly toy--and had them hoisted on to the

inspection counter. The most curious man I ever knew went at them.

The typewriter came first.

“What is this?” he asked when he had opened the case.

“A typewriter.”

“Where did you buy it?”

“In Chicago.”

“What do you use it for?”

“For typewriting.”

“Typewriting what?”

“Stuff for newspapers and magazines.”

“Pretty handy, isn’t it?”

“Very.”

“Have you written any articles over here?”

“Yes.”

“Where are they?”

“Some are in America by this time; others are in the censors’ hands.”

He wanted to know what publications I was connected with, and I told

him. He allowed me to close up the typewriter case, and next launched

an offensive against a young trunk. He examined my collars one by one

and found them all the same size. He came upon a package containing

five or six hundred sheets of blank copy paper. He inspected every

sheet, holding many of them up to the light. He gave individual

attention to each of the few bits of lingerie the Parisians had not

considered worth keeping. He exhibited an amazing interest in my other

suit. He fondled a beautiful gray sweater for fully five minutes.

He went through a copy of the _Chu Chin Chow_ score, page by page.

I wondered he didn’t sing it. Holding out only the blank paper, he

repacked, and tackled the suit-case.

He counted the bristles in the tooth-brush. He found two French

dictionaries and a French grammar and studied them for approximately

one semester. He opened a nest of shirts and handkerchiefs and spread

them out for a thorough review. I should hate to be a clerk in a gents’

furnishing store and have him wished on me as a customer.

In the lower southeast corner he discovered an unopened box of shaving

cream. As every one knows, this commodity comes in a tube, which is

wrapped in transparent paper, and the tube, thus wrapped, is contained

in a pasteboard box for protection or something. Old Curiosity opened

the box and extracted the tube. He gazed at it through the wrapper,

then removed the wrapper and stared at the nude tube.

“Where is this made?” he asked.

“In America. It comes out like a ribbon and lies flat on the brush.”

Without comment, he reclothed the tube as well as he could in its

mutilated wrapper, put it back in its box, and repacked the suit-case

and shut it.

“Is that all you have?” he inquired.

“No,” I said. “There’s that big square package containing a toy.”

Now about this toy. It’s a complete but ridiculously impractical system

of trenches. French soldiers of leaden composition are resisting a

boche attack. Some are supposed to be throwing bombs. Others are

fighting with bayonets. A few are busy with the trench guns. There are

threads to represent barbed-wire entanglements and a few Huns enmeshed

in them. Other Huns are prone, the victims of the sturdy poilu defense.

The package had been opened for private exhibition purposes in London,

and as I am an awful washout (British slang) at doing up bundles, I had

left the job to a chambermaid, who had discarded the Parisian wrapping

paper and used some on which no firm name appeared.

Well, Mr. Question Mark now laboriously untied the cord, took off the

paper and the cover of the box, and exposed the toy to the public and

official view. Instantly two British officers, whom we shall call

General Bone and Major Thick, flitted up to the counter and peered at

the damning evidence.

“What is this gentleman’s name?” asked the general.

He was told.

“When did you make this thing?” he demanded.

“I didn’t,” said I. “It was bought in a shop in Paris.”

“What shop?”

“You can’t expect a person to remember the name of a Parisian shop.”

“Where is the firm’s name on the paper?”

I explained that the original wrapper had been left in London.

“What is your business?” demanded the major.

“He’s a correspondent,” replied the inspector.

There ensued the old familiar cross-examination and the request for

credentials I didn’t have. The major asked the inspector whether I was

carrying any papers.

“These,” said the latter, and showed him the pile of blank copy sheets.

The major dived for it.

“It’s all blank paper,” said the inspector, and the major registered

keen disappointment.

Next to my suit-case lay a bag belonging to a gentleman named Trotter,

and on it was a Japanese hotel label. The general glimpsed it and

turned on me. “When were you in Japan?” he asked.

I told him never.

“That piece isn’t his,” said the inspector. “It belongs to a Mr.

Trotter.”

“His first name is Globe,” said I, but it was a wild pitch.

The major and the general had a whispered consultation. Then the former

said: “Well, I guess he’s all right. Let him go.”

Some devil within me suggested that I say good-by to them in German,

which I learned in our high school. I cast him out, and here I am,

aboard ship, sitting still in the middle of the river. But I don’t like

being indefinitely bottled in bond and I appeal to you, Mr. Captain--

_Take me somewhere west of Ireland where they know I’m not a spy,

Where nobody gazes at me with a cold, suspicious eye--

To the good old U. S. A.,

Where a gent can go his way

With no fear of being picked on forty thousand times a day._

VIII

BACK IN OLD “O SAY”; I START ANSWERING QUESTIONS

_Sunday, September 23. At Sea._

A card on the wall of my stateroom says: “Name of Steward--Ring Once.

Name of Stewardess--Ring Twice.” If they’ll give us deck space, we can

put on a three Ring circus.

The ship was still in bond when we awoke this morning, and the cheerful

rumor floated round that she sometimes remained in harbor a week before

securing the Admiralty’s permission to sail. But life-boat drill was

ordered right after breakfast, and Ring Once told me this indicated a

speedy departure. My boat is No. 9. It’s a male boat except for one

Japanese lady, Mrs. Kajiro Come-here-o, whose husband is also of our

select crew.

Our drillmaster advised us to wear plenty of heavy clothes till we

were out of the danger zone, advice which it is impossible for me to

follow. He said five blasts of the whistle would mean we were attacked.

I think, however, that if I hear as many as three I’ll start sauntering

toward No. 9.

At noon we felt the throb of the engines, and forty minutes later we

were out of bond and able to buy cigarettes.

Before luncheon we were assigned to our permanent seats. Naturally, I

am at the captain’s table, with a member of the House of Commons, a

member of the House of Lords, a plain English gentleman, a retiring

attaché of our embassy in London, his journalistic wife, and M. de M.

Hanson of Washington and Peoria, his first name being Mal de Mer.

The talk to-day has been of nothing but submarines. The superstitious

call attention to the fact that with us is a lady who was on the

_Lusitania_ when they torpedoed it. To offset that, however, we carry

the president’s youngest son-in-law, and surely there must be a limit

to boche ruthlessness.

_Monday, September 24. At Sea._

Our ship’s cargo consists principally of titles, rumors and

celebrities. Most of the titles belong to members of the British

Commission which is coming over to talk food to Mr. Hoover. But there

is also a regular baroness, round whom the young bloods swarm like bees.

The rumors deal with the course of the ship. Some folks say we are

going up Iceland way; others that we are headed straight south; a few

that we are taking the Kansas City route, and so on. The sun refuses

to come out and tell us the truth, but there’s a shore line in sight

on our starboard, and Ring Once tells me it’s the east coast of

Ireland. That ought to indicate something about our general direction,

but I don’t know what. Of the celebrities, most of them are American

journalists and other spies.

_Tuesday, September 25. At Sea._

Between eight and nine every morning the bath steward, one Peter James,

raps on the door and says: “Your bath is ready, sir.” And you have to

get up and go and take it for fear of what he’d think of you if you

didn’t. But it’s pretty tough on a man who’s just spent a month in

France and formed new habits.

I stayed up all night playing bridge. I wanted to be sleepy to-day

because I needed a hair cut and the best way to take ’em is

unconsciously. The scheme was effective, and I didn’t hear a word the

barber said.

The three others in the bridge game were members of the British Food

Commission. Britishers, I notice, are much slower at bridge than we

are. They think a long while before they make a play; then they make

the wrong play. I do the same thing with only half the expenditure of

thought and time.

_Wednesday, September 26. At Sea._

Captain Finch appeared at breakfast this morning. It was the first time

he had honored us. His presence at table, I’m told, indicates that we

are out of the danger zone.

On board we have a doctor, a D.D., who intends to lecture in America on

the war. He happened to be at our table in the lounge this afternoon.

Some one asked him if he had visited the front.

“Indeed, yes,” he said. “I was there less than a month ago. The British

entertained me and showed me everything. Why, one day they were taking

me through the front-line trenches and I asked how far we were from

the German front line. ‘Hush, Doctor,’ said one of the officers. ‘The

Germans can hear you talking now. They’re only twenty yards away.’”

I asked him what part of the front he’d been on. He told me. It was

exactly the same front I’d seen. But when I was there--and it was also

less than a month ago--the depth of No Man’s Land was two hundred

yards, and there weren’t any non-combatants batting round within sixty

feet of a boche trench. No, nor a British trench either. I said as much

right out loud, and I’m afraid I’ve spoiled his trip.

But honest, Doc, somebody was kidding you or else your last name is

Cook.

_Thursday, September 27. At Sea._

The sea was calm, the day was fair.

E’en Mal de Mer came up for air.

The voyage is getting sort of tiresome to us Americans. For the British

it’s not so bad. Their five meals per day break the monotony. They

breakfast from nine to ten, lunch from one to two, tea from four to

five, dine from seven to eight, and sup from eleven on. But we can’t

stand that pace, and have to waste a lot of time reading.

There is a ship library full of fairly good stuff, but by far the most

interesting matter is to be found in a paper published on board every

day. Its title is _The Ocean Times and the Atlantic Daily News_. It

contains two pages of news, two pages of editorial causerie, one of

them in French, and four pages of real hot stuff, such as “Softness

and Grandeur. A Brief Appreciation of a Delightful Excursion in

Norway”; “Chance Meetings. The Long Arm of Coincidence and the Charm

of Surprise”; “The Introduction of Electric Tramways into Cape Town.”

These essays and articles are boiler plate, as we journalists say, and

we find them an excellent sedative.

The news is received by wireless from both sides of the ocean. To-day’s

dispatches from Washington fairly made our hair stand on end. One of

them said: “The decision of the milk dealers here that they would

not pay more than thirty-two cents per gallon for milk after October

one was met by a counter-proposal on the part of the Maryland and

Virginia Milk Producers’ Association last night with an offer to

fix the price at thirty-three and one-half cents per gallon instead

of at thirty-five cents as originally planned.” Another informed us

that Brigadier-General Somebody, for three years assistant to the

Major-General Commandant at the Marine Corps Headquarters, had been

ordered to command the Marine Cantonment at Somewhere, Virginia. A

person who fails to get a thrill out of that must be a cold fish. But I

can’t help wishing they’d let us know when and where the world series

is to start.

It is announced that Doc Cook will preach at the ship’s service Sunday

morning. His text, no doubt, will be “Twenty Yards from the German

Trenches.”

_Saturday, September 29. At Sea._

Captain Finch says we will reach New York Tuesday. But if they don’t

quit turning the clock back half an hour a day we’ll never get there.

_Sunday, September 30. At Sea._

The doctor preached, but disappointed a large congregation with a

regular sermon.

After we had sung _God Save the King_ and _America_, I came to my

stateroom to work and immediately broke the carriage cord on my

typewriter. I said one or two of the words I had just heard in church;

then borrowed a screw driver from Ring Once and proceeded to dilacerate

the machine. It took over an hour to get it all apart and about two

hours to decide that I couldn’t begin to put it together again.

I went on deck and told my troubles to Mr. Hollister of Chicago. Mr.

Hollister was sympathetic and a life-saver. He introduced me to a

young man, named after the beer that made Fort Wayne famous, who is a

master mechanic in the employ of the Duke of Detroit. The young man

said he had had no experience with typewriters, but it was one of his

greatest delights to tinker. I gave him leave to gratify his perverted

taste and, believe it or not, in forty minutes he had the thing

running, with a piece of common binding twine pinch-hitting for the

cord. Then I went entirely off my head and bought him wine.

_Monday, October 1. Nearly There._

It’s midnight. An hour ago we went on deck and saw the prettiest sight

in the world--an American lighthouse. First we felt like choking;

then like joking. Three of us--Mr. and Mrs. P. Williams and I--became

extremely facetious.

“Well,” said Mrs. Williams, “there’s ‘’Tis of Thee.’”

“Yes,” said her husband, “that certainly is old ‘O Say.’”

I’ve forgotten what I said, but it was just as good.

The light--standing, they told me, on Fire Island--winked at us

repeatedly, unaware, perhaps, that we were all married. I’ll confess we

didn’t mind at all and would have winked back if we could have winked

hard enough to carry nineteen nautical miles.

Ring Once was waiting at the stateroom door to tell me to have all

baggage packed and outside first thing in the morning.

“I’ll see that it’s taken off the ship,” he said. “You’ll find it under

your initial on the dock.”

“What do you mean, under my initial?”

He explained and then noticed that my junk was unlabeled. I’d worried

over this a long while. My French Line stickers had not stuck. And how

would New Yorkers and Chicagoans know I’d been abroad? I couldn’t stop

each one and tell him.

The trusty steward disappeared and soon returned with four beautiful

labels, square, with a red border, a white star in the middle, and a

dark blue L, meaning me, in the middle of the star.

“Put those on so they’ll stay,” I instructed him. “There’s no sense in

crossing the ocean and then keeping it a secret.”

_Tuesday, October 2. A Regular Hotel._

M. de M. Hanson, looking as if he’d had just as much sleep as I, was

in his, or somebody else’s deck chair, reading a yesterday’s New York

paper, when I emerged to greet the dawn.

“I don’t know where this came from,” he said, “but it’s got what you

want to know. The series opens in Chicago next Saturday. They play

there Saturday and Sunday, jump back to New York Monday and play here

Tuesday and Wednesday.”

“And,” said I, “may the better team win--in four games.”

We were anchored in the harbor, waiting for a pilot, that was, as

usual, late. I was impatient but M. de M. didn’t seem to care. He’s

wild about ocean travel so long as it’s stationary.

Presently the youngest of the food commissioners, one Mr. Bowron,

joined us. He asked the name of every piece of land in sight. We

answered all his questions, perhaps correctly.

“That one,” said M. de M., pointing, “is Staten Island. Of course

you’ve heard of it.”

“I’m afraid not,” said Mr. Bowron.

“What!” cried Mr. Hanson. “Never heard of Staten Island!”

“The home of Matty McIntyre,” I put in. “One of the greatest outside

lefts in the history of soccer. He played with the Detroit and Chicago

elevens in the American League.”

Mr. Bowron looked apologetic.

“And in that direction,” said Mr. Hanson, pointing again, “is Coney

Island, where fashionable New York spends its summers.”

“Except,” said I, “the aristocratic old families who can’t be weaned

away from Palisades Park.”

Mr. Bowron interviewed us on the subject of hotels.

“There are only two or three first-class ones,” said Mr. Hanson. “The

Biltmore’s fair. It’s got elevators and running hot water.”

“But no electric lights,” I objected.

“Oh, yes,” said Mr. Hanson. “They put in electricity and set the meter

the week we left.”

Breakfast was ready, and for the first time on the trip Mr. Hanson ate

with a confidence of the future. For the first time he ordered food

that was good for him. Previously it hadn’t mattered.

When we went back on deck, the world’s largest open-face clock was on

our left, and on our right the business district of Pelham’s biggest

suburb. And immediately surrounding us were Peter James and Ring

Once and the lounge steward and the deck steward and the dining-room

stewards--in fact, all the stewards we’d seen and a great many we

hadn’t.

“We’re trapped,” said Mr. Hanson. “Our only chance for escape is to

give them all we’ve got. Be ready with your one-pounders and your

silver pieces.”

At the end of this unequal conflict--the Battle of the

Baltic--Rear-Admiral Lardner’s fleet was all shot to pieces, most of

them the size of a dime, and when Mr. Brennan of Yonkers announced that

his car would meet the ship and that he would gladly give me a ride

to my hotel I could have kissed him on both cheeks. It took my customs

inspector about a minute to decide that I was poor and honest. The

baroness, though, when we left the dock, was engaged in argument with

half a dozen officials, who must have been either heartless or blind.

Mr. Brennan’s chauffeur drove queerly. He insisted on sticking to the

right side of the street, and slowed up at busy intersections, and he

even paid heed to the traffic signals. In Paris or London he’d have

been as much at home as a Mexican at The Hague.

The hotel gave me a room without making me tell my age or my occupation

or my parents’ birthplace. The room has a bath, and the bath has two

water faucets, one marked hot and one marked cold, and when you turn

the one marked hot, out comes hot water. And there’s no Peter James

around to make you bathe when you don’t feel the need.

The room has a practical telephone too, and pretty soon I’m going to

start calling up acquaintances with kind hearts and good cooks. The

first who invites me to dinner is in tough luck.

_Friday, October 5. Chicago._

“Miner” Brown, the great three-fingered pitcher, used to be asked

the same questions by every one to whom he was introduced. As a

breath-saving device he finally had some special cards printed. On one

side was his name. On the other the correct replies:

1. Because I used to work in a mine.

2. It was cut off in a factory when I was a kid.

3. At Terre Haute, Ind.

4. Rosedale, right near Terre Haute.

5. Not a bit.

When he left home in the morning he was always supplied with fifty

of these cards, and sometimes he got rid of the whole supply before

bedtime.

* * * * *

I departed from New York Wednesday night. Our train picked up the

New York Baseball Club at Philadelphia. I was acquainted with about

fifteen of the twenty (odd) athletes. Every one of the fifteen, from

Mr. Zimmerman down, shot the same queries at me. Every person I’ve

encountered here at home too, and usually in the same order:

1. How’d you like it over there?

2. Did you see any subs?

3. Did you see any fighting?

4. Could you hear the guns?

5. How close did you get to the front?

6. Did you see any American soldiers?

7. How many men have we got over there?

8. How are things in Paris?

9. Were you in England?

10. How are things in London?

11. Were you in any air raids?

12. How long is it going to last?

Now truth may be stranger than fiction, but it’s also a whole lot

duller. Most of my answers have very evidently bored my audiences to

the point of extinction. Yet I hesitate to start weaving the well-known

tangled web. I’d be bound to trip in it sooner or later. Last night,

in desperation, I drafted a card along the line of Mr. Brown’s. But it

lacked wallop, as you can see for yourself.

1. Oh, pretty well.

2. No.

3. A little.

4. Oh, yes.

5. A mile and a half, on the observation hill.

6. Oh, yes.

7. That’s supposed to be a secret.

8. Pretty gay.

9. Yes.

10. All right, so far as I could see.

11. No.

12. I don’t know.

THE END

Transcriber’s Notes

Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a

predominant preference was found in the original book; otherwise they

were not changed.

Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced quotation

marks were remedied when the change was obvious, and otherwise left

unbalanced.

Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs and

outside quotations.

My four weeks in France · 第 6 / 6 段