Hauing in this maner described the Ouze, and such riuers as fall into
the same: now it resteth that I procéed in my voiage toward the
Thames, according to my former order. Being therefore come againe into
the maine sea, I find no water of anie countenance or course (to my
[Sidenote: Ancolme.]
remembrance) till I come vnto the Ancolme a goodlie water, which
riseth east of Mercate Rasing, and from thence goeth by middle Rasing.
Then receiuing a short rill from by south, it runneth on vnder two
bridges, by the waie, till it come to Wingall, northeast; where also
it méeteth with another brooke, from Vsselbie that commeth thither by
Vresbie, goeth by Cadneie (taking in the two rilles in one bottome,
that descend from Howsham, and north Leiseie) and thence to Newsted,
Glanford, Wardeleie, Thorneham, Applebie, Horslow, north Ferribie, and
so into the sea.
[Sidenote: Kilis.]
Being past Ancolme, we go about the Nesse, and so to the fall of the
water which commeth from Kelebie, by Cotham abbeie, Nersham abbeie,
Thorneton, and leauing Coxhill by west, it falleth into the Ocean. The
next is the fall of another brooke comming from Fleting, all alongst
by Stallingburne. Then crossed we Grimsbie gullet, which issuing aboue
Erebie commeth to Lasebie, the two Cotes, and then into the sea. After
this we passed by another portlet, whose backwater descendeth from
Balesbie by Ashbie, Briggesleie, Wath, and Towneie, and finallie to
the next issue, before we come at Saltflete, which branching at the
last, leaueth a prettie Iland wherein Comsholme village standeth. This
water riseth short (as I heare) of Tathewell, from whence it goeth to
Rathbie, Hallington, Essington, Lowth, Kidirington, Auingham, and then
branching aboue north Somerton, one arme méeteth with the sea, by
Grauethorpe, the other by north of Somercote.
[Sidenote: Saltflete.]
Saltflete water hath but a short course: for rising among the
Cockeringtons, it commeth to the sea, at Saltflete hauen: howbeit the
next vnto it is of a longer race, for it riseth (as I take it) at
Cawthorpe paroch, and descendeth by Legburne, the Carletons, the west
middle and east Saltfletes, and so into the Ocean. The water that
riseth aboue Ormesbie and Dribie, goeth to Cawsbie, Swabie abbeie,
Clathorpe, Belew, Tattle, Witherne, Stane, and northeast of
Thetilthorpe into the maine sea.
[Sidenote: Maplethorpe]
Maplethorpe water riseth at Tharesthorpe, and going by Markeleie,
Folethorpe, and Truthorpe, it is not long yer it méet with the Germane
Ocean. Then come we to the issue that commeth from aboue the Hotoft,
and thence to Mumbie chappell, whither the water comming from Claxbie,
Willowbie, and Slouthbie (and whereinto another rill falleth) dooth
runne, as there to doo homage vnto their lord and souereigne. As for
Ingold mill créeke, I passe it ouer, and come straight to another
water, descending from Burge by Skegnes. From hence I go to the issue
of a faire brooke, which (as I heare) dooth rise at Tetford, and
thence goeth by Somerbie, Bagenderbie, Ashwardbie, Sawsthorpe,
Partneie, Ashbie, the Stepings, Thorpe croft, and so into the sea. As
for Wainflete water, it commeth from the east sea, and goeth betwéene
S. Maries & Alhallowes by Wainflete towne, and treading the path of
his predecessors, emptieth his chanell to the maintenance of the sea.
Now come I to the course of the Witham, a famous riuer, whereof goeth
the biword, frequented of old, and also of Ancolme, which I before
described:
Ancolme ele, and Witham pike,
Search all England and find not the like.
[Sidenote: Lindis, Witham, Rhe.]
Leland calleth it Lindis, diuerse the Rhe, and I haue read all these
names my selfe: and thereto that the Lincolneshire men were called in
old time Coritani, and their head citie Lindus, Lindon, or Linodunum,
in which region also Ptolomie placeth Rage, which some take to be
Notingham, except my memorie doo faile me. It riseth among the
Wickhams, in the edge of Lincolnshire, and (as I take it) in
south-Wickham paroch, from whence it goeth to Colsterworth, Easton,
Kirkestoke Paunton, and Paunton Houghton, and at Grantham taketh in a
rill from by southwest, as I heare. From Grantham it runneth to Man,
Thorpe, Bolton, and Barneston, where crossing a becke from northeast,
it procéedeth further southwest ward by Mereston, toward Faston (there
also taking in a brooke that riseth about Denton, and goeth by
Sidbrooke) it hasteth to Dodington, Clapale, Barmebie, Beckingham,
Stapleford, Bassingham, Thursbie, and beneath Amburgh crosseth a water
that commeth from Stogilthorpe by Somerton castell.
After this confluence also, our Witham goeth still foorth on his waie
to the Hickhams, Boltham, Bracebridge, and Lincolne it selfe, for
which the Normans write Nicholl by transposition of the letters, or
(as I may better saie) corruption of the word. But yer it come there,
it maketh certeine pooles (whereof one is called Swan poole) and soone
after diuiding it selfe into armes, they run both thorough the lower
part of Lincolne, each of them hauing a bridge of stone ouer it,
thereby to passe through the principall stréet: and as the bigger arme
is well able to beare their fisher botes, so the lesser is not without
his seuerall commodities. At Lincolne also this noble riuer méeteth
[Sidenote: Fosse dike.]
with the Fosse dike, whereby in great floods vessels may come from the
Trents side to Lincolne. For betweene Torkseie, where it beginneth,
and Lincolne citie, where it endeth, are not aboue seuen miles, as
Leland hath remembred. Bishop Atwater began to clense this ditch,
thinking to bring great vessels from Trent to Lincolne in his time:
but sith he died before it was performed, there hath no man beene
since so well minded as to prosecute his purpose. The course moreouer
of this our streame following, from Lincolne to Boston is fiftie miles
by water: but if you mind to ferrie, you shall haue but 24. For there
are foure common places where men are ferried ouer; as Short ferrie,
fiue miles from Lincolne, Tatersall ferrie, eight miles from Short
ferrie, Dogdike ferrie a mile, Langreth ferrie fiue miles, and so
manie finallie to Boston.
But to go forward with the course of Lindis (whereof the whole
prouince hath béene called Lindeseie) when it is past Lincolne, it
goeth by Shepewash, Wassingburg, Fiskerton, and soone after taketh in
sundrie riuers in one chanell, whereby his greatnesse is verie much
increased. From this confluence it goeth to Bardolfe, and there
receíuing a rill (descending from betweene Sotbie and Randbie, and
going by Harton) it slideth foorth by Tupham to Tatersall castell,
taking vp there in like sort thrée small rills by the waie, whereof I
haue small notice as yet: and therefore I referre them vnto a further
consideration to be had of them hereafter, if it shall please God that
I may liue to haue the filing of these rude pamphlets yet once againe,
& somewhat more leasure to peruse them than at this time is granted.
Finallie, being past Tatersall, and Dogdike ferrie, the Witham goeth
toward Boston, & thence into the sea. Thus haue I brieflie dispatched
this noble riuer Witham. But hauing another note deliuered me thereof
from a fréend, I will yéeld so farre vnto his gratification, that I
will remember his trauell here, and set downe also what he hath
written thereof, although the riuer be sufficientlie described
alredie.
[Sidenote: Witham.]
Into Witham therefore from by north, and seuen miles beneath Lincolne,
[Sidenote: Hake.]
there falleth a faire water, the head whereof is at Hakethorne, from
whence it goeth by Hanworth, Snarford, Resbie, Stainton, and at
Bullington méeteth with a water on ech side, whereof one commeth from
Haiton and Turrington, the other from Sudbrooke, and likewise beneath
Birlings with the third comming from Barkeworth by Stansted, and
ioining all in one, soone after it is not long yer it fall into the
chanell of Witham, and so are neuer more heard of. There is also a
brooke by southwest, that commeth from Kirbie to Cateleie, Billingams,
[Sidenote: Bane.]
and the Ferrie. At Tatersall it méeteth with the Bane, which riseth
aboue Burgh, and néere vnto Ludford goeth downe to Dunnington,
Stanigod, Hemmingsbie, Bamburgh, Fillington, Horne castell, (where it
crosseth a rill from Belchworth) Thornton, Marton, Halton, Kirkebie,
Comsbie, Tatersall, and so to Dogdike ferrie.
Aboue Boston likewise it taketh in a water comming from Lusebie by
Bolingbrooke, Stickeford, Stickneie, Sibbeseie and Hildrike. And to
Boston towne it selfe doo finallie come sundrie brookes in one
chanell, called Hammond becke, which rising at Donesbie, runneth on to
Wrightbold, where it casteth one arme into Holiwell water. Thence it
hasteth toward Dunnington, receiuing four brookes by the waie, whereof
the first commeth from Milthorpe, the second from Fokingham, called
[Sidenote: Bollingborow.]
Bollingborow, or (after some, I wote not vpon what occasion)
[Sidenote: Sempringham.]
Sempringham water, the third from Bridge end, the fourth from
Sempringham, and afterwards the maine streame is found to run by
Kirton holme, and so into the Witham. Into the Wiland likewise falleth
the Holiwell, which riseth of a spring that runneth toward the east
from Haliwell to Onebie, Esonden, Gretford, and so to Catbridge, where
it receiueth another rising at Witham and west of Manthorpe, and the
second comming from Laund, and so run from thence togither to
Willesthorpe and Catbridge, and then into the Haliwell, which after
these confluences goeth to Tetford and Eastcote, where it meeteth with
a draine, comming from Bourne, and so through the fennes to
Pinchbecke, Surfleet, and Fosdike, where it méeteth with the Welland,
in the mouth of the Wash, as I haue noted vnto you.
[Sidenote: Wiland.]
Hauing thus set foorth the riuers that fall into the Witham, now come
we to the Wiland or Welland, wherevnto we repaire after we be past
Boston, as drawing by litle and litle toward the Girwies, which
inhabit in the fennes (for Gir in the old Saxon speach dooth signifie
déepe fennes and marishes) and these beginning at Peterborow eastward,
extend themselues by the space of thrée score miles & more, as Hugh of
Peterborow writeth. This streame riseth about Sibbertoft, and running
betwéene Bosworth and Howthorpe, it goeth to Féedingworth, Merson,
[Sidenote: Braie.]
Bubberham, Trussell, Herborow (receiuing there the Braie, which
commeth from Braiebrooke castell) to Bowton, Weston, Wiland, Ashleie,
Medburne, Rokingham, and Cawcot, where a riueret called little Eie
méeteth withall, comming from east Norton by Alexstone, Stocke,
Fasten, and Drie stocke. From Cawcot it goeth to Gritto, Harringworth,
Seton, Wauerlie, Duddington, Collie Weston, Eston, and there ioineth
[Sidenote: Warke.]
with the third called Warke, not far from Ketton, which commeth from
Lie by Preston, Wing, Lindon, Luffenham, &c. Thence it goeth on by
[Sidenote: Brooke water.]
[Sidenote: Whitnell.]
Tinwell, to Stanford (crossing the Brooke water, and Whitnelbecke,
both in one bottome) and from Stanford by Talington, Mareie, to
Mercate Deeping, Crowland (where it almost meeteth with the Auon) then
to Spalding, Whapland, and so into the sea.
Leland writing of this Wiland, addeth these words which I will not
omit, sith in mine opinion they are worthie to be noted, for better
consideration to be had in the said water and his course. The Wiland
(saith he) going by Crowland, at Newdrene diuideth it selfe into two
[Sidenote: Newdrene.]
branches, of which one goeth vp to Spalding called Newdrene, and so
[Sidenote: South.]
into the sea at Fossedike Stow: the other named the South into
Wisbech. This latter also parteth it selfe two miles from Crowland,
[Sidenote: Writhlake.]
sendeth a rill called Writhlake by Thorneie, where it méeteth with an
arme of the Nene, that commeth from Peterborow, and holdeth course
with the broad streame, till it be come to Murho, six miles from
Wisbech, where it falleth into the South.
[Sidenote: Shéepees eie.]
Out of the South in like sort falleth another arme called Sheepes eie
and at Hopelode (which is fouretéene miles from Lin) did fall into the
sea. But now the course of that streame is ceased, wherevpon the
inhabitants susteine manie grieuous flouds, bicause the mouth is
stanched, by which it had accesse before into the sea. Hitherto
Leland. Of the course of this riuer also from Stanford, I note this
furthermore out of another writing in my time. Being past Stanton
(saith he) it goeth by Burghleie, Vffington, Tallington, Mareie,
Déeping, east Deeping, and comming to Waldram hall, it brancheth into
two armes, whereof that which goeth to Singlesole, receiueth the Nene
out of Cambridgeshire, and then going by Dowesdale, Trekenhole, and
winding at last to Wisbech, it goeth by Liuerington, saint Maries, and
so into the sea. The other arme hasteth to Crowland, Clowthouse,
Bretherhouse, Pikale, Cowbecke and Spalding. Here also it receiueth
the Baston dreane, Longtoft dreane, Déeping dreane, and thence goeth
by Wickham into the sea, taking withall on the right hand sundrie
other dreanes. And thus farre he.
Next of all, when we are past these, we come to another fall of water
into the Wash, which descendeth directlie from Whaplade dreane to
Whaplade towne in Holland: but bicause it is a water of small
importance, I passe from thence, as hasting to the Nene, of both the
more noble riuer: and about the middest thereof in place is a certeine
swallow, so déepe and so cold in the middest of summer, that no man
dare diue to the bottome thereof for coldnesse, and yet for all that
in winter neuer found to haue béene touched with frost, much lesse to
[Sidenote: Auon.]
be couered with ise. The next therefore to be described is the Auon,
[Sidenote: Nene.]
otherwise called Nene, which the said author describeth after this
maner. The Nene beginneth foure miles aboue Northampton in Nene méere,
where it riseth out of two heads, which ioine about Northampton. Of
this riuer the citie and countrie beareth the name, although we now
pronounce Hampton for Auondune, which errour is committed also in
south Auondune, as we may easilie see. In another place Leland
describeth the said riuer after this maner. The Auon riseth in Nene
méere field, and going by Oundale and Peterborow, it diuideth it selfe
into thrée armes, whereof one goeth to Horneie, another to Wisbech,
the third to Ramseie: and afterward being vnited againe, they fall
into the sea not verie farre from Lin. Finallie, the descent of these
waters leaue here a great sort of Ilands, wherof Elie, Crowland, and
Mersland, are the chiefe. Hitherto Leland.
Howbeit, because neither of these descriptions touch the course of
this riuer at the full, I will set downe the third, which shall
supplie whatsoeuer the other doo want. The Auon therefore arising in
Nenemere field, is increased with manie rilles, before it come at
Northampton, & one aboue Kings thorpe, from whence it goeth to
[Sidenote: Vedunus.]
Dallington, and so to Northhampton, where it receiueth the Wedon. And
here I will staie, till I haue described this riuer. The Wedon
therefore riseth at Faulesse in master Knightlies pooles, and in
Badbie plashes also are certeine springs that resort vnto this
streame. Faulesse pooles are a mile from Chareton, where the head of
Chare riuer is, that runneth to Banberie. There is but an hill called
Alberie hill betwéene the heads of these two riuers.
From the said hill therefore the Wedon directeth his course to Badbie,
Newenham, Euerton, Wedon, betwixt which and Floretowne, it receiueth
[Sidenote: Florus.]
the Florus (a pretie water rising of foure heads, whereof the one is
at Dauentrie, another at Watford, the third at long Bucke, the fourth
aboue Whilton) and then passeth on to Heiford, Kislingberie, Vpton,
and so to Northhampton, where it falleth into the Auon, receiuing
[Sidenote: Bugius.]
finallie by the waie the Bugbrooke water at Heiford, Patshall water
néere Kislingberie, and finallie Preston water beneath Vpton, which
running from Preston by Wootton, méeteth at the last with Milton rill,
and so fall into Auon. Now to resume the tractation of our Auon. From
Northhampton therefore it runneth by Houghton, great Billing,
Whitstone, Dodington, and Willingborow, where we must staie a while:
for betweene Willingborow and Higham ferries, it receiueth a pretie
[Sidenote: Kilis.]
water comming from about Kilmarsh, which going by Ardingworth,
Daisborow, Rusheton, Newton, Gaddington, Boughton, Warketon,
[Sidenote: Rother.]
Kettering, Berton, and Burton, méeteth there with Rothwell water,
which runneth west of Kettering to Hisham, the greater Haridon, and
then into the Auon.
Being therfore past Burton, our maine streame goeth to Higham Ferries,
Artleborow, Ringsted, Woodford, and (méeting thereby with Cranford
[Sidenote: Ocleie.]
rill) to Thraxton, north whereof it ioineth also with the Ocleie
water, that commeth from Sudborow and Lowicke, to old Vmkles, Waden
ho, Pilketon, Toke (where it taketh in the Liueden becke) and so to
Oundell, Cotterstocke, Tansoner, and betweene Tothering and Warmington
[Sidenote: Corbie.]
receiueth the Corbie water, which rising at Corbie, goeth by Weldon,
Denethap, Bulwich, Bletherwijc, Fineshed, Axthorpe, Newton, Tothering,
and so into the Auon. After this, the said Auon goeth to Elton,
Massittgton, Yerwell, Sutton, Castor, Allerton, and so to Peterborow,
where it diuideth it selfe into sundrie armes, and those into seuerall
branches and draines, among the fennes and medowes, not possible
almost to be numbred, before it méet with the sea on the one side of
the countrie, and fall into the Ouze on the other.
[Sidenote: Isis 3.]
The Ouze, which Leland calleth the third Isis, falleth into the sea
betwéene Mersland & Downeham. The chiefe head of this riuer ariseth
néere to Stanes, from whence it commeth to Brackleie (sometime a noble
towne in Northampton shire, but now scarselie a good village) and
there taking in on the left hand one water comming from the parke
[Sidenote: Sisa.]
betwéene Sisam and Astwell (which runneth by Whitfield and Tinweston)
[Sidenote: Imelus.]
and another on the right from Imleie, it goeth on by Westbirie,
Fulwell, water Stretford, Buckingham, and Berton, beneath which towne
the Erin falleth into it, whereof I find this short description to be
[Sidenote: Erin.]
inserted here. The Erin riseth not farre from Hardwijc in
Northamptonshire, from hence it goeth by Heth, Erinford, Godderington,
Twiford, Steeple Cladon, & yer it come at Padbirie, méeteth with the
[Sidenote: Garan.]
Garan brooke descending from Garanburge, and so they go togither by
Padbirie, till they fall into the Ouze, which carieth them after the
confluence to Thorneton bridge (where they crosse another fall of
water comming from Whitlewood forrest by Luffeld, Lecamsted and
Foscot) and so to Beachampton, Culuerton, Stonie Stratford, and
Woluerton.
[Sidenote: Verus.]
Here the Ouze méeteth with a water (called, as Leland coniectureth,
the Vere or Were) on the left hand, as you go downewards, that commeth
betwéene Wedon and Wexenham in Northamptonshire, and goeth by
Towcester, and Alderton, and not farre from Woluerton and Hauersham
into the foresaid Ouze, which goeth also from hence to
Newportpaganell, where in like sort I must staie a while till I haue
[Sidenote: Cle aliàs Claius.]
described another water, named the Clée, by whose issue the said
streame is not a little increased. This riuer riseth in the verie
confines betwéene Buckingham and Bedfordshires, not farre from
Whippesnade, and going on toward the northwest, by Eaton and Laiton,
it commeth to Linchlade, where it entreth whollie into
Buckinghamshire, and so goeth on by Hammond, Brickle, Fennie
Stratford, Simpson, Walton and Middleton, beneath which it receiueth
[Sidenote: Saw.]
the Saw from aboue Halcot, and so goeth on till it meet with the Ouze
néere vnto Newport, as I haue said. Being vnited therefore, we set
forward from the said towne, and follow this noble riuer, to
Lathbirie, Thuringham, Filgrane, Lawndon, Newington, Bradfield on the
one side, and Turueie on the other, till it come at length to Bedford
after manie windlesses, and then méeteth with another streame, which
is increased with so manie waters, that I was inforced to make an
imagined staie here also, and view their seuerall courses, supposing
my selfe to looke downe from the highest steeple in Bedford, whence
(as best meane to view anie countrie wheresoeuer) I note the same as
followeth.
Certes on the east side, where I began this speculation, I saw one
that came from Potton, and met withall néere Becliswade: another that
grew of two waters, wherof one descended from Baldocke, the other from
Hitchin, which ioined beneth Arleseie, and thence went to Langford and
[Sidenote: These rise not far from Michelborow
& one of them in Higham parke.]
Edworth. The third which I beheld had in like sort two heads, wherof
one is not farre from Wood end, the other from Wooburne (or Howburne),
and ioining about Flitwijc, they go to Flitton (where they receiue
Antill brooke) and so by Chiphill, and Chicksand, they come to
Shafford, from whence taking the aforsaid Langford water with them,
they go foorth by Becliswade, Sandie, Blumham, and neere vnto
Themisford are vnited with the Ouze. And now to our purpose againe.
[Sidenote: Verus or the Were.]
After this the Ouze goeth by Berkeford, to Winteringham (méeting there
with the Wareslie becke) and so runneth to S. Neotes (or saint Nedes,
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
in old time Goluesburg, as Capgraue saith In vita Neoti) to Paxston,
Offordes, and so to Godmanchester, in old time called Gumicester,
which (as it should séeme) hath béene a towne of farre greater
countenance than at this present it is; for out of the ruines thereof
much Romane coine is found, and sometimes with the image of C. Antius
which hath long haire, as the Romans had before they receiued barbars
into their citie, and therevnto the bones of diuerse men of farre
greater stature than is credible to be spoken of in these daies. But
what stand I vpon these things? From hence therfore our water goeth on
to Huntingdon, Wilton, saint Iues, Holiwell, and Erith, receiueth in
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
[Sidenote: Helenus.]
[Sidenote: Elmerus.]
the meane time the Stow (néere vnto little Paxton) and likewise the
Ellen, and the Emmer, in one chanell a little by west of Huntingdon.
Finallie, the maine streame spreading abroad into the Fennes, I cannot
tell into how manie branches, neither how manie Ilets are inforced by
the same; although of Iles, Marshland, Ancarig or Ancarie be the
chiefe, and of which this later is called Crowland (as Crowland also
hight thornie A cruda terra, or store of bushes saith Hugo le Blanc)
sometime growing in the same, and Ancarijc because sundrie Ancres haue
liued & borne great swaie therein. But howsoeuer this case standeth,
this is certeine, that after it hath thus delited it selfe with
ranging a while about the pleasant bottoms & lower grounds, it méeteth
with the Granta, from whence it goeth with a swift course vnto
Downeham. Betwéene it also and the Auon, are sundrie large meeres or
plashes, by southwest of Peterborow full of powts and carpes, whereof
[Sidenote: Riuelus.]
Whittleseie méere, and Ramseie méere (whereinto the Riuall falleth),
that commeth from aboue Broughton, Wiston, and great Riuelleie) are
said to be greatest. Of all the riuers that run into this streame,
[Sidenote: Granta.]
that called Granta (whereof the whole countie in old time was called
Grantabrycshire, as appéereth by the register of Henrie prior of
Canturburie) is the most noble and excellent, which I will describe
euen in this place, notwithstanding that I had earst appointed it vnto
my second booke. But for somuch as a description of Ouze and Granta
were deliuered me togither, I will for his sake that gaue them me, not
separate them now in sunder.
The verie furthest head and originall of this riuer is in Henham, a
large parke belonging to the earle of Sussex, wherein (as the
townesmen saie) are foure springs that run foure sundrie waies into
the maine sea. Leland sought not the course of this water aboue
Newport pond, and therefore in his commentaries vpon the song of the
swan, he writeth thereof after this maner insuing. Although doctor
Iohn Caius the learned physician, and some other are of the opinion,
that this riuer comming from Newport, is properlie to be called the
Rhée: but I may not so easilie dissent from Leland, whose iudgement in
my mind is by a great deale the more likelie. Harken therefore what he
saith.
The head of Grantha or Granta, is in the pond at Newport, a towne of
the east Saxons, which going in a bottome beside the same, receiueth a
pretie rill, which in the middest thereof dooth driue a mill, and
descendeth from Wickin Bonhant, that standeth not farre from thence.
Being past Newport, it goeth alongst in the lower ground, vntill it
come to Broke Walden, west of Chipping Walden (now Saffron Walden)
hard by the lord Awdleis place, where the right honorable Thomas
Howard with his houshold doo soiourne, and sometime stood an abbeie of
Benedictine moonks, before their generall suppression. From Awdleie
end it goeth to Littleburie, the lesse and greater Chesterfords,
Yealdune, Hincstone, Seoston or Sawson, and néere vnto Shaleford
[Sidenote: Babren.]
receiueth the Babren that commeth by Linton, Abbington, Babrenham, and
Stapleford: and so going forward it commeth at the last to
Trompington, which is a mile from Cambridge. But yer it come
altogither to Trompington, it méeteth with the Barrington water, as
[Sidenote: Rhée.]
Leland calleth it, but some other the Rhee (a common name to all
waters in the Saxon speech) whereof I find this description, to be
touched by the waie. The Rhée riseth short of Ashwell in
Hertfordshire, and passing under the bridge betweene Gilden Mordon and
Downton, and leauing Tadlow on the west side (as I remember) it goeth
toward Crawden, Malton, Barrington, Haselingfield, and so into Granta,
taking sundrie rills with him from south and southwest, as Wendie
water southwest of Crawden, Whaddon brooke southwest of Orwell,
Mildred becke southwest of Malton, and finallie the Orme which commeth
out of Armington or Ormendum well, and goeth by Fulmere and Foxton,
and falleth into the same betweene Barrington and Harleston, or
Harston; as they call it.
Now to procéed with our Granta. From Trompington on the one side, and
Grantcester, on the other, it hasteth to Cambridge ward, taking the
Burne with it by the waie, which descendeth from a castell of the same
denomination, wherein the Picotes and Peuerels sometime did inhabit.
Thence it goeth by sundrie colleges in Cambridge, as the queenes
college, the kings college, Clare hall, Trinitie college, S. Johns,
&c: vnto the high bridge of Cambridge, and betwéene the towne and the
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
castell to Chesterton, and receiuing by and by the Stoure, or Sture
(at whose bridge the most famous mart in England is yearlie holden and
kept) from Chesterton it goeth to Ditton, Milton, and yer long méeting
with two rilles (from Bottesham and Wilberham, in one bottome) it
runneth to Horningseie, & Water Bech: and finallie here ioining with
[Sidenote: Bulbecke.]
the Bulbecke water, it goeth by Dennie, and so forth into the Ouze,
fiftéene miles from Cambridge, as Leland hath set downe. And thus much
of the third Isis or Ouze, out of the aforesaid author: wherevnto I
haue not onelie added somewhat of mine owne experience, but also of
other mens notes, whose diligent obseruation of the course of this
riuer hath not a little helped me in the description of the same. Now
it resteth that we come neerer to the coast of Northfolke, and set
foorth such waters as we passe by vpon the same, wherein I will deale
so preciselie as I may: and so farre will I trauell therein, as I hope
shall content euen the curious reader: or if anie fault be made, it
shall not be so great, but that after some trauell in the finding, it
shall with ease be corrected.
The first riuer that therefore we come vnto, after we be past the
confluence of Granta, and the Ouze, and within the iurisdiction of
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Northfolke, is called the Burne. This streame riseth not verie farre
from Burne Bradfield, aboue the greater Wheltham, and from thence it
goeth on to Nawnton, Burie, Farneham Martin, Farneham Alhallowes,
Farneham Genouefa, Hengraue, Flemton, Lackeford, Icklingham, and to
[Sidenote: Dale.]
Milden hall: a little beneath which, it meeteth with the Dale water,
that springeth not farre from Catilege, and going by Asheleie, Moulton
(a benefice as the report goeth not verie well prouided for) to
Kenford, Kenet, Bradingham, Frekenham, it falleth at the last not
farre from Iselham into the Burne, from whence they go togither as one
into the Ouze. With the Burne also there ioineth a water comming from
about Lidgate, a little beneath Iselham, and not verie far from
Mildenhall.
[Sidenote: Dunus.]
The Dune head, and rising of Wauenheie, are not much in sunder: for as
it is supposed, they are both not farre distant from the bridge
betwéene Loph[=a]m and Ford, wherby the one runneth east and the other
west, as I haue béene informed. The Dune goeth first of all by
Feltham, then to Hopton, & to Kinets hall, where it meeteth with a
water c[=o]ming out of a lake short of Banham (going, by Quiddenham,
Herling, Gasthorpe) and so on, both in one chanell, they run to
Ewston. Here they méet in like sort, with another descending from two
heads, wherof the one is néere vnto Pakenham, the other to Tauestocke,
as I heare. Certes these heads ioine aboue Ilesworth, not farre from
Stow Langtoft, from whence they go to Yxworth, Thorpe, Berdwell,
Hunnington, Fakenham, and so into the Dune at Ewston; as I said. From
hence also they hasten to Downeham, which of this riuer dooth séeme to
borow his name. South Rée rill I passe ouer as not worthie the
description, because it is so small.
[Sidenote: Bradunus fortè.]
Next vnto this riuer on the south side is the Braden, or Bradunus,
which riseth at Bradenham, and goeth by Necton, north Peckenham, south
Peckenham, Kirsingham, Bedneie, Langford, Igbor, Munford, North Old,
Stockebridge, Ferdham, Helgie, and so into the Ouze. The néerest vnto
[Sidenote: Linus.]
this is another which riseth about Lukeham, and from thence commeth to
Lexham, Massingham, Newton, the castell Acre, Acres, Nerboe, Pentneie,
Wrongeie, Rounghton (which at one time might haue béene my liuing if I
would haue giuen sir Thomas Rugband money inough, but now it belongeth
to Gundeuill and Caius college in Cambridge) Westchurch, and so to
Linne. As so dooth also another by north of this, which commeth from
[Sidenote: Congunus.]
the east hilles by Congenham, Grimston, Bawseie, Gaiwood, whereof let
this suffice. And now giue eare to the rest sith I am past the Ouze.
Being past the mouth or fall of the Ouze, we méet next of all with the
[Sidenote: Rising.]
Rising chase water, which Ptolomie (as some thinke) doth call Metaris,
[Sidenote: Ingell.]
and descendeth from two heads, and also the Ingell that commeth from
about Snetsham. From hence we go by the point of saint Edmund, and so
hold on our course till we come vnto the Burne, which falleth into the
sea by south from Waterden, and going betwéene the Crakes to Burnham
Thorpe, and Burnham Norton, it striketh at the last into the sea; east
of Burnham Norton a mile at the least, except my coniecture doo faile
[Sidenote: Glouius.]
me. The Glow or Glowie riseth not far from Baconsthorpe, in the
hundred of Tunsted; & going by and by into Holt hundred, it passeth by
Hunworth, Thornage, Glawnsford, Blackneie, Clare, and so into the sea,
receiuing there at hand also a rill by east, which descendeth from the
hilles lieng betwéene Killing towne and Waiburne.
[Sidenote: Wantsume.]
The Wantsume riseth in Northfolke at Galesend in Holt hundred, from
whence it goeth to Watersend, Townton, Skelthorpe, Farneham,
Pensthorpe, Rieburg, Ellingham, and Billingsford. And here it
receiueth two waters in one bottome, of which the first goeth by
Stanfield and Beteleie, the other by Wandling and Gressonhall, and so
run on ech his owne waie, till they méet at Houndlington, southwest of
Billingsford with the Wantsume. From hence they go all togither to
Below, Ieng, Weston, and Moreton; but yer it come to Moreton, it
[Sidenote: Yocus.]
méeteth with the Yowke, which (issuing about Yexham) goeth by
Matteshall and Barrow. After this the said Wantsume goeth on by
Ringland, and so to Norwich the pontificall sée of the bishop, to
whome that iurisdiction apperteineth, which seemeth by this memoriall
yet remaining in the corrupted name of the water, to be called in old
time Venta, or (as Leland addeth) Venta Icenorum. But to procéed.
Beneath Norwich also it receiueth two waters in one chanell, which I
will seuerallie describe, according to their courses, noting their
confluence to be at Bixleie, within two miles of Norwich, except my
annotation deceiue me. The first of these hath two heads wherof one
mounteth vp southwest of Whinborow, goeth by Gerneston, and is the
[Sidenote: Hierus.]
[Sidenote: Gerus.]
verie Hiere or Yare that drowneth the name of Wantsume, so soone as he
meeteth withall. The other head riseth at Wood in Mitford hundred, and
after confluence with the Hiere at Caston, going by Brandon, Bixton,
Berford, Erleham, Cringlefield (not farre from Bixleie as I said) doth
méet with his companion, which is the second to be described as
followeth. It hath two heads also that méet northwest of Therstane;
and hereof the one commeth from Findon hall, by Wrenningham from about
Wotton, by Hemnall, Fretton, Stretton, and Tasborow, till they ioine
at Therston, as I gaue notice aforehand. From Therston therefore they
go togither in one to Newton, Shotesham, Dunston, Castor, Arminghale,
Bixleie, Lakenham, and Trowse, and then fall into the Wantsume beneath
Norwich, which hereafter is named Hiere. The Hiere, Yare, or Gare
therefore proceeding in his voiage, as it were to salute his grandame
the Ocean, goeth from thence by Paswijc, Surlingham, Claxton, and
Yardleie; and here it meeteth againe with another riueret descending
from about Shotesham to Therstane, Shedgraue, Hockingham, and so into
Gare or Yare, whereof Yardleie the towne receiueth denomination. After
this it goeth to Frethorpe, and aboue Burgh castell meeteth with the
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
Waueneie, and so into the sea.
[Sidenote: Bure.]
Into this riuer also falleth the Bure, which rising at a towne of the
same name, passeth by Milton, Buresdune, Corpesteie, Marington,
Blekeling, Bure, Alesham, Brampton, Buxton, Horsted, Werxham bridge,
[Sidenote: Thurinus.]
Horning, Raneworth; and beneath Bastewijc receiueth the Thurine which
riseth aboue Rolesbie; then to Obie, Clipsbie (there also receiuing
another from Filbie) Rimham, Castor, and by Yarmouth into the Ocean.
The Waueneie afore mentioned, riseth on the south side of Brisingham,
and is a limit betweene Northfolke and Suffolke. Going therefore by
Dis, Starton, not farre from Octe, it méeteth with the Eie, which
riseth néere Ockold, or betwéene it and Braisworth, & goeth on by
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
Brome, Octe, and so into the Waueneie. From thence our Waueneie
runneth by Silam, Brodish, Nedam, Harleston, Rednam, Alborow, Flixton,
Bungeie, Sheepemedow, Barsham, Beckles, Albie, & at Whiteacre (as I
heare) parteth in twaine, or receiuing Milford water (which is most
[Sidenote: Einus.]
likelie) it goeth along by Somerleie, Hormingfléet, S. Olaues, (there
[Sidenote: Fritha.]
receiuing the Frithstane or Fristan brooke, out of low or litle
England) Fristan & Burgh castell, where it méeteth with the Hiere, &
from thencefoorth accompanieth it (as I said) vnto the sea. Willingham
water commeth by Hensted, Einsted, or Enistate, and falleth into the
sea by south of Kesland.
[Sidenote: Cokelus.]
The Cokell riseth south southwest of Cokeleie towne in Blithe hundred,
and neere vnto Hastelworth it meeteth with the rill that commeth from
Wisset, and so going on togither by Wenhaston, and Bliborow, it
falleth into the sea at an hauen betwéene Roidon and Walderswicke. A
little rill runneth also thereinto from Eston by Sowold, and another
from Dunwich, by Walderswijke: and hereby it wanteth little that Eston
Nesse is not cut off and made a pretie Iland.
[Sidenote: Ford.]
The Ford riseth at Poxford, and going by Forderleie, and Theberton, it
[Sidenote: Orus.]
falleth at last into Mismere créeke. Into the Oreford hauen runneth
one water comming from Aldborow ward, by a narrow passage from the
[Sidenote: Fromus.]
north into the south. By west wherof (when we are past a little Ile)
it receiueth the second, descending from betwéene Talingston and
Framingham in Plomes hundred; which c[=o]ming at last to Marleford,
[Sidenote: Glema.]
meeteth with a rill southwest of Farnham called the Gleme (that
commeth by Rendlesham, the Gleinhams) and so passing foorth, it taketh
another at Snapesbridge, comming from Carleton by Saxmundham,
[Sidenote: Iken, or Ike.]
Sternefield & Snape. Then going to Iken (where it méeteth with the
third rill at the west side) it fetcheth a compasse by Sudburne east
of Orford, and so into the hauen. Next vnto this by west of Orford,
there runneth vp another créeke by Butleie, whereinto the waters
comming from Cellesford, and from the Ike, doo run both in one
bottome. And thus much of Orford hauen.
[Sidenote: Deua.]
The Deue riseth in Debenham, in the hundred of Hertesméere, and from
thence goeth to Mickford, Winston, Cretingham, Lethringham, Wickham,
hitherto still creeping toward the south: but then going in maner full
south, it runneth neere vnto Ash, Rendlesham, Vfford, Melton, and
Woodbridge, beneath which it receiueth on the west side, a water
comming of two heads, wherof one is by north from Oteleie, and the
other by south from Henleie, which ioining west of Mertelsham, go vnto
the said towne and so into the Deue, east of Mertelsham abouesaid.
[Sidenote: Clarus fons.]
From thence the Deue goeth by Waldringfield and Henleie, and méeting
soone after with Brightwell brooke, it hasteth into the maine sea,
leauing Bawdseie on the east, where the fall therof is called Bawdseie
hauen.
[Sidenote: Vrus.]
Vre riseth not farre from Bacton, in Hertesmeere hundred, and thense
descendeth into Stow hundred by Gipping Newton, Dagworth, Stow
(beneath which it méeteth with a water comming from Rattlesden, by one
house) and so going on to Nedeham (through Bosméere and Claidon
hundreds) to Blakenham, Bramford, Ypswich, receiuing beneath Stoke,
which lieth ouer against Ypswich, the Chatsham water, that goeth by
Belsted, and so into the Vre, at the mouth whereof is a maruellous
deepe and large pit, whereof some marriners saie that they could neuer
find the bottome, and therefore calling it a well, and ioining the
name of the riuer withall, it commeth to passe that the hauen there is
called Vrewell, for which in these daies we doo pronounce it Orwell.
Into this hauen also the Sture or Stoure hath readie passage, which
remaineth in this treatise next of all to be described.
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
The Sture or Stoure parteth Essex from Suffolke, as Houeden saith, and
experience confirmeth. It ariseth in Suffolke, out of a lake neere
vnto a towne called Stourméere. For although there come two rilles
vnto the same, whereof the one descendeth from Thirlo, the Wratings
and Ketton, the other from Horshed parke, by Hauerill, &c: yet in
summer time they are often drie, so that they cannot be said to be
perpetuall heads vnto the aforesaid riuer. The Stoure therefore
(being, as I take it, called by Ptolomie, Edomania, for thereon toward
the mouth standeth a prettie towne named Manitrée, which carieth some
shadow of that ancient name thereof vnto this daie, if my coniecture
be any thing) ariseth at Stouremeere, which is a poole conteining
twentie acres of ground at the least, the one side whereof is full of
alders, the other of réeds, wherin the great store of fish there bred,
is not a little succoured. From this méere also it goeth to Bathorne
bridge, to Stocke clare, Cawndish, Pentlo, Paules Beauchampe, Milford,
Foxerth, Buresleie, Sudburie, Bures, Boxsted, Stoke, Nailand, Lanham,
Dedham, Strotford, east Barfold, Brampton, Manitree, Catwade bridge,
and so into the sea, where in the verie fall also it ioineth with
Orwell hauen, so néere that of manie they are reputed as one, and
parted but by a shingle that dooth run along betwéene them: neither
dooth it passe cléere in this voiage, but as it were often occupied by
the waie, in receiuing sundrie brookes and rilles not héere to be
omitted.
For on Essex side it hath one from Hemsted, which goeth by Bumsted,
and Birdbrooke: another rising short of Foxerth, that runneth by water
Beauchampe, Brundon, and falleth into the same at Badlington, west of
Sudburie: and the third that glideth by Horkesleie, and méeteth
withall west of Boxsted. On the north, or vpon Suffolke side, it
receiueth one descending from Catiledge, by Bradleie, Thurlow,
Wratting, Kiddington, and at Hauerell falleth into this Sture. The
second descendeth northward from Posling field, and ioineth therewith
east of Clare. It was in old time called Cicux or Ceuxis, and it
méeteth with the Stoure in such wise that they séeme to make a right
angle, in the point almost wherof standeth a ruinous castell. Howbeit
as sithence which time this water (in some mens iudgement) hath béene
named Clarus (not so much for the greatnesse as clearnesse of the
streame) even so the Stoure it selfe was also called Ens as they say,
and after their confluence the whole Clarens, which giueth
denomination to a duchie of this Iland of no small fame and honour.
But these are but méere fables, sith the word Clare is deriued from
the towne, wherein was an house of religion erected to one Clara, and
Clarens brought from the same, because of an honour the prince had in
those parties: which may suffice to know from whence the name
proceedeth. The third ariseth of two heads, whereof one commeth from
Wickham brooke, the other from Chedbar in Risbie hundred, and ioining
about Stanfield, it goeth by Hawton, Somerton, Boxsted, Stansted, and
north of Foxerth falleth into Stoure. The fourth issueth from betwéene
the Waldingfields, and goeth by Edwardstone, Boxsted, Alington,
Polsted, Stoke, and so at south Boxsted falleth into the same. The
fift riseth northwest of Cockefield, and goeth to Cockefield, Laneham,
[Sidenote: Kettle baston.]
Brimsleie, Midling, and receiuing Kettle Baston water southwest of
Chelsworth (and likewise the Breton that commeth from Bretenham, by
Hitcheham, and Bisseton stréet on the south east of the same towne) it
goeth in by Nedging, Aldham, Hadleie, Lainham, Shellie, Higham, and so
into the Stoure. The sixt is a little rill descending southwest from
Chappell. The seuenth riseth betweene Chappell and Bentleie, and going
betwéene Tatingston, and Whetsted, Holbrooke, and Sutton, it falleth
at length into Stoure, and from thence is neuer heard of.
[Sidenote: Ocleie.]
As for Ocleie Drill, that riseth betweene Ocleie, and Wikes parkes,
and so goeth into the Stoure, on Essex side, west of Harwich, and east
of Rée Ile; I passe it ouer, because it is of it selfe but a rill, and
not of anie greatnesse, till it come to the mill aboue Ramseie bridge,
where I was once almost drowned (by reason of the ruinous bridge which
leadeth ouer the streame being there verie great) as an arme of the
sea that continuallie ebbeth & floweth. Next vnto this, we came to
[Sidenote: Mosa.]
another that runneth south of Beaumont by Mosse, and falleth into the
sea about the middest of the Baie, betwixt Harwich and the Naze.
Betwixt the Naze also and the mouth of Colne, is another rill, which
riseth at little Bentleie, and thence goeth to Tendring thorpe,
[Sidenote: Claco.]
through Clacton parke by great Holland, and east of little Holland,
into the déepe sea.
[Sidenote: Colunus.]
The Colne hath three heads, whereof one is at Ouington that goeth by
Tilberie, and east of Yeldam falleth into the chiefe head which riseth
about Redgewell in Essex, from whence also it goeth to Yeldam and
Hedingham, otherwise called Yngham: also Hedningham or Heuedingham,
[Sidenote: * Sic.]
[*] or Heuedingham of the superioritie which accrued therevnto,
because the chiefe lords of the same from time to time kept residence
in the towne. For Heued or Hed signifieth The chiefe, in the old
English language, which in the name of this and manie other townes and
villages yet standing in England cannot easilie be forgotten. The
third falleth in south of Yeldam, and being once met all in one
chanell, and called the Colne, it goeth (as I said) to Hedningham,
Hawsted, Erles Colne, Wakes Colne, Fordon, Bardfold, Colchester, in
old time Camalodunum, and so into the sea at Brickleseie. Some thinke
that Colchester and Camalodunum are sundrie cities and situat in
diuerse places, whereby Maldon (or Ithancester out of whose ruines the
said towne of Maldon was erected) should rather be Camalodunum than
Colchester, but hereof I cannot iudge. Indeed if (as Leland saith)
Maldon should be written Malodunum, it were a likelihood that there
assertions should be probable. Some reason also may be gathered for
the same out of Dion, and such as make the Thames mouth to take his
beginning at Colchester water. But I dare not presume to conclude any
thing hereof, least I should séeme rashlie to take hold of euerie
coniecture. This I relie vpon rather as a more certeintie, that in the
first edition of this treatise I was persuaded, that the sea entring
by the Colne made thrée seuerall passages fr[=o] thence into the land:
but now I vnderstand that these are seuerall entrances and streames,
of which the Colne is one, another is the Salcote water, which commeth
in beneath the Stroud (a causeie that leadeth vnto Merseie Ile, ouer
which the sea méeteth with a contrarie course) and the third the faire
arme that floweth vnto Maldon, and all these thrée haue their falles
either ouer against or néere vnto the aforesaid Ile, which at a low
water is not halfe a mile from the shore. Into the Colne or Colunus
also (whereof Leland thinketh Colchester to take his name, and not A
colonia Romanorum, although I may not consent to him herein) doo run
manie salt creekes beneath Fingering ho, of whose names sith I doo not
know, nor whether they be serued with anie backewaters or not, I giue
ouer to intreat anie further & likewise of their positions. Into that
of Maldon runneth manie faire waters, whereof I will saie so much as I
know to be true in maner by experience.
[Sidenote: Gwin or Pant.]
There is a pretie water that beginneth néere vnto Gwinbach or Winbeche
church in Essex, a towne of old, and yet belonging to the Fitzwaters,
taking name of Gwin, which is beautifull or faire, & Bache that
signifieth a wood: and not without cause, sith not onelie the hilles
on ech side of the said rillet, but all the whole paroch hath sometime
abounded in woods; but now in manner they are vtterlie decaied, as the
like commoditie is euerie where, not onelie thorough excessiue
building for pleasure more than profit, which is contrarie to the
ancient end of building; but also for more increase of pasture &
commoditie to the lords of the soile, through their sales of that
emolument, whereby the poore tenants are inforced to buie their
fewell, and yet haue their rents in triple maner inhanced.) This said
brooke runneth directlie from thence vnto Radwinter, now a parcell of
your lordships possessions in those parts, descended from the
Chamberleins, who were sometime chéefe owners of the same. By the waie
also it is increased with sundrie pretie springs, of which Pantwell is
the chéefe (whereof some thinke the whole brooke to be named Pant) and
which (to saie the truth) hath manie a leasing fathered on the same.
Certes by the report of common fame it hath béene a pretie water, and
of such quantitie, that botes haue come in time past from Bilie abbeie
beside Maldon vnto the moores in Radwinter for corne. I haue heard
also that an anchor was found there neere to a red willow, when the
water-courses by act of parlement were surueied and reformed
throughout England, which maketh not a little with the aforesaid
relation. But this is strangest of all, that a lord sometime of
Winbech (surnamed the great eater, because he would breake his fast
with a whole calfe, and find no bones therein as the fable goeth)
falling at contention with the lord Iohn of Radwinter, could worke him
none other iniurie, but by stopping vp the head of Pantwell, to put by
the vse of a mill which stood by the church of Radwinter, and was
serued by that brooke abundantlie. Certes I know the place where the
mill stood, and some posts thereof doo yet remaine. But sée the malice
of mankind, whereby one becommeth a woolfe vnto the other in their
mischeeuous moodes. For when the lord saw his mill to be so spoiled,
he in reuenge of his losse, brake the necke of his aduersarie, when he
was going to horsebacke, as the constant report affirmeth. For the
lord of Radwinter holding a parcell of his manour of Radwinter hall of
the Fitzwaters, his sonne was to hold his stirrop at certeine times
when he should demand the same. Shewing himselfe therefore prest on a
time to doo his said seruice, as the Fitzwater was readie to lift his
leg ouer the saddle, he by putting backe his foot, gaue him such a
thrust that he fell backward, and brake his necke: wherevpon insued
great trouble, till the matter was taken vp by publike authoritie; and
that seruile office conuerted into a pound of pepper, which is trulie
paid to this daie. But to leaue these impertinent discourses, and
returne againe to the springs whereby our Pant or Gwin is increased.
There is likewise another in a pasture belonging to the Grange, now in
possession of William Bird esquier, who holdeth the same in the right
of his wife, but in time past belonging to Tilteie abbeie. The third
commeth out of the yard of one of your lordships manors there called
Radwinter hall. The fourth from Iohn Cockswets house, named the
Rotherwell, which running vnder Rothers bridge, méeteth with the Gwin
or Pant on the northwest end of Ferrants meade, southeast of Radwinter
church, whereof I haue the charge by your honours fauourable
preferment.
I might take occasion to speake of another rill which falleth into the
Rother from Bendish hall: but bicause it is for the most part drie in
summer I passe it ouer. Yet I will not omit to speake also of the
manor which was the chiefe lordship sometime of a parish or hamlet
called Bendishes, now worne out of knowledge, and vnited partlie to
Radwinter, and partlie to Ashdon. It belonged first to the Bendishes
gentlemen of a verie ancient house yet extant, of which one laieng the
said manour to morgage to the moonks of Feuersham, at such time as K.
Edward the third went to the siege of Calis, thereby to furnish
himselfe the better toward the seruice of his prince, it came to passe
that he staied longer beyond the sea than he supposed. Wherevpon he
came before his daie to confer with his creditors, who commending his
care to come out of debt, willed him in friendlie maner not to suspect
anie hard dealing on their behalfes, considering his businesse in
seruice of the king was of it selfe cause sufficient, to excuse his
delaie of paiment vpon the daie assigned. Herevpon he went ouer againe
vnto the siege of Calis. But when the daie came, the moonks for all
this made seisure of the manour, and held it continuallie without anie
further recompense, maugre all the friendship that the aforesaid
Bendish could make. The said gentleman also tooke this cousening part
in such choler, that he wrote a note yet to be séene among his
euidences, whereby he admonisheth his posteritie to beware how they
trust either knaue moonke or knaue frier, as one of the name and
descended from him by lineall descent hath more than once informed me.
Now to resume our springs that méet and ioine with our Pant.
[Sidenote: Froshwell.]
The next is named Froshwell. And of this spring dooth the whole
hundred beare the name, & after this confluence the riuer it selfe
whervnto it falleth (from by north) so farre as I remember. Certes,
all these, sauing the first and second, are within your lordships
towne aforesaid. The streame therefore running from hence (& now, as I
said, called Froshwell, of Frosh, which signifieth a frog) hasteth
immediatlie vnto old Sandford, then through new Sandford parke, and
afterward with full streame (receiuing by the waie, the Finch brooke
that commeth thorough Finchingfield) to Shalford, Bocking, Stifted,
Paswijc, and so to Blackewater, where the name of Froshwell ceaseth,
the water being from hencefoorth (as I heare) commonlie called
Blackwater, vntill it come to Maldon, where it falleth into the salt
arme of the sea that beateth vpon the towne; and which of some (except
I be deceiued) is called also Pant: and so much the rather I make this
conjecture, for that Ithancester stood somewhere vpon the banks
thereof, & in the hundred of Danseie, whose ruines (as they saie) also
are swalowed vp by the said streame, which can not be verified in our
riuer that runneth from Pantwell, which at the mouth and fall into the
great current, excéedeth not (to my coniecture) aboue one hundred
foot. But to returne to our Pant, alias the Gwin. From Blackwater it
goeth to Coxall, Easterford, Braxsted and Wickham, where it méeteth
[Sidenote: Barus.]
with the Barus, and so going togither as one, they descend to
Heiebridge, and finallie into the salt water aboue Maldon, and at hand
as is aforesaid. As for the Barus, it riseth in a statelie parke of
Essex called Bardfield, belonging to sir Thomas Wroth whilest he
liued, who hath it to him and his heires males for euer, from the
crowne. Being risen, it hasteth directlie to old Saling Brainetrée,
crossing a rillet by the waie comming from Raine, blacke Norleie,
white Norleie, Falkeburne, Wittham, and falleth into the Blackewater
beneath Braxsted on the south.
[Sidenote: Chelmer.]
Beside this, the said Pant or Gwin receiueth the Chelme or Chelmer,
which ariseth also in Wimbech aforesaid, where it hath two heads: of
which the one is not farre from Brodockes (where master Thomas Wiseman
esquier dwelleth) the other nigh vnto a farme called Highams in the
same paroch, and ioining yer long in one chanell, they hie them toward
Thacsted vnder Prowds bridge, méeting in the waie with a rill comming
from Boiton end, whereby it is somewhat increased. Being past
Thacsted, it goeth by Tilteie, and soone after receiueth one rill
[Sidenote: Lindis.]
which riseth on the north side of Lindsell, & falleth into the Chelmer
by northeast at Tilteie aforesaid, & another c[=o]ming from southwest,
rising southeast from Lindsell at much Eiston. From thence then
holding on still with the course, it goeth to Candfield the more,
Dunmow, litle Dunmow, Falsted, Lies, both Walthams, Springfield, and
so to Chelmeresford. Here vpon the south side I find the issue of a
water that riseth fiue miles (or thereabouts) south and by west of the
said towne, from whence it goeth to Munasing, Buttesburie (there
receiuing a rill from by west, to Ingatstone, Marget Inge, Widford
bridge, Writtle bridge, and so to Chelmeresford (crossing also the
[Sidenote: Roxford.]
second water that descendeth from Roxford southwest of Writtle by the
waie) whereof let this suffice.
From hence the Chelmer goeth directlie toward Maldon by Badow, Owting,
Woodham water, Bilie, and so to Blackwater northwest of Maldon,
receiuing neuerthelesse yer it come fullie thither, a becke also that
[Sidenote: Lée.]
goeth from Lée parke, to little Lées, great Lées, Hatfield, Peuerell,
Owting, and so into Blackwater (whereof I spake before) as Maldon
streame dooth a rill from by south ouer against saint Osithes, and
also another by Bradwell. After which the said streame growing also to
be verie great, passeth by the Tolshunts, Tollesbie, and so foorth
into the maine sea neere vnto Marseie: betwéene which fall and the
place where Salute water entreth into the land, Plautus abode the
comming of Claudius sometime into Britaine, when he being hardlie
beeset, did send vnto him for aid and spéedie succour, who also being
come did not onelie rescue his legat, but in like manner wan
Colchester, and put it to the spoile, if it be Camalodunum.
[Sidenote: Burne.]
The Burne riseth somewhere about Ronwell, and thence goeth to Hull
bridge, south Fambridge, Kirkeshot ferrie, and so to Foulnesse. And as
this is the short course of that riuer, so it brancheth, and the south
arme thereof receiueth a water comming from Haukewell, to great
Stanbridge, and beneath Pakesham dooth méet by south with the said
arme, and so finish vp his course, as we doo our voiage also about the
coast of England.
Thus haue I finished the description of such riuers and streames as
fall into the Ocean, according to my purpose, although not in so
precise an order and manner of handling as I might, if information
promised had been accordinglie performed; or others would, if they had
taken the like in hand. But this will I saie of that which is here
done, that from the Solueie by west, which parteth England & Scotland
on that side; to the Twede, which separateth the said kingdoms on the
east: if you go backeward, contrarie to the course of my description,
you shall find it so exact, as beside a verie few by-riuers, you shall
not need to vse anie further aduise for the finding and falles of the
aforesaid streames. For such hath beene my helpe of maister Sackfords
cardes, and conference with other men about these, that I dare
pronounce them to be perfect and exact. Furthermore, this I haue also
to remember, that in the courses of our streames, I regard not so much
to name the verie towne or church, as the limits of the paroch. And
therefore if I saie it goeth by such a towne, I thinke my dutie
discharged, if I hit vpon anie part or parcell of the paroch. This
also hath not a little troubled me, I meane the euill writing of the
names of manie townes and villages: of which I haue noted some one
man, in the description of a riuer, to write one towne two or thrée
manner of waies, whereby I was inforced to choose one (at aduenture
most commonlie) that séemed the likeliest to be sound in mine opinion
and iudgement.
Finallie, whereas I minded to set downe an especiall chapter of ports
and créeks, lieng on ech coast of the English part of this Ile; and
had prouided the same in such wise as I iudged most conuenient: it
came to passe, that the greater part of my labour was taken from me by
stealth, and therefore as discouraged to meddle with that argument, I
would haue giuen ouer to set downe anie thing therefore at all: and so
much the rather, for that I sée it may prooue a spurre vnto further
mischéefe, as things come to passe in these daies. Neuerthelesse,
because a little thereof is passed in the beginning of the booke, I
will set downe that parcell thereof which remaineth, leauing the
supplie of the rest either to my selfe hereafter, (if I may come by
it) or to some other that can better performe the same.
OF SUCH PORTS AND CREEKS AS OUR SEAFARING-MEN DOO NOTE FOR THEIR
BENEFIT UPON THE COASTS OF ENGLAND.