PLUMBING WORK
CONTINUED.--BATH-TUBS.--BATH-SPRINKLERS.--FOOT-TUBS.--SAFES.
--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--SET TUBS.
--OUTSIDE DRAINS.--GREASE SINKS.--NICKEL FITTINGS.
The fittings of kitchen and other sinks are fully considered in Chapter
V., which has to do with kitchens and pantries. It is sufficient to say,
however, that the only visible wood-work is the rim and wooden legs,
which support the sink proper, and the splash-boards at the side tables
as described.
BATH-TUBS.
A great deal might be said on this subject, which must be left unsaid
for the want of space. The ideal bath-tub, the one which in every way is
the most satisfactory, is made of porcelain, same as the sinks
described. They are beautiful in appearance, easily cleaned, and
altogether very satisfactory. However, they are expensive. For the tub
alone the cost is about one hundred dollars more than for one of copper.
They are used in houses where the matter of cost is not of great
importance. Cast-iron, porcelain-lined, and cast-iron tubs, painted, are
used occasionally in dwellings. They are more expensive than the copper
tubs. An iron porcelain-lined tub is much less expensive than solid
porcelain, and is very satisfactory. The iron and porcelain tubs do not
require side or end casings of wood. They stand clear of wall and floor.
As is known, tubs are of varying sizes and forms, the usual length being
from four and one-half to six feet. The tubs known as the "French"
pattern are commonly four and one-half feet long, and deeper and wider
than the ordinary copper tub. The weight of the copper varies from nine
to sixteen ounces to the foot; fourteen-ounce copper tubs are in most
general use. The French pattern of tub is coming into more general use
than the others in the best class of work. As stated before, it is wider
and deeper, though shorter than the old six-foot tub of the common
pattern. It does not require as much water to get the same depth in the
shorter tub as in one that is longer. As no one cares to lie down in the
bath-tub, six feet in length is not necessary; four and one-half feet is
ample.
The ordinary fixtures which go with a bath-tub of moderate cost are the
combination bath-cock with rubber hose and sprinkler, and a plug and
chain. All the metal work is nickel-plated. A combination bath-cock
connection with hot and cold water mixes the water as it passes into the
tub, so that the proper temperature may be secured by the adjustment of
the valves.
The most objectionable feature to the tub of general construction is the
overflow which connects with the waste. It is simply a tube which has a
single opening below the bath-cock to the waste pipe. This soon becomes
foul. Various ingenious devices have been arranged for doing away with
this kind of overflow. Arrangements are provided which connect directly
with the outlet, and which may be readily removed and cleaned. These
prevent the passage of water to the drain when tub is in use. By a
movement of a handle in the top the passage may be opened below to allow
the water to pass out. There are many devices constructed on this
principle. In some instances they add only two or three dollars to the
cost of the plumbing outfit, and are certainly worth the extra expense.
There are arrangements where the finish is more elaborate, the details
more complete, and the cost largely in excess of the figure here named.
The same device applies to the various tubs, porcelain, iron, or copper.
Formerly it was common to have a large sprinkler connected with hot and
cold water above the tub; this is now unusual. It was impossible to use
this sprinkler without wetting the head. For that reason the hose and
sprinkler has largely taken its place in ordinary work. However, the
sprinkler is a very good thing, though it is not put in excepting where
the hose attachment is also supplied.
Another modern arrangement which has to do with the sprinkler is a
surrounding rubber curtain, which is supported by a plated ring on a
level with one's head when standing. This prevents the splashing of
water out of the tub. It goes against the curtain, and is thus deflected
into the tub. Various arrangements on this principle, looking to hot or
steam baths, have been devised. They surround the person bathing,
leaving only the head exposed, and discharge the warm water into the
confined space surrounding the body. This is a makeshift to take the
place of hot and steam baths. In some instances, one-third of the foot
end of the tub is fitted with a copper-lined enclosure on three sides,
with shower at top. One may stand in this space and use the shower as
with the curtain. Additions are sometimes made to this arrangement,
wherein the side spray or needle bath is provided. It is so called from
the needle size of the streams, which are emitted from certain pipes.
All of these showers are connected with regulating valves, so that any
desired temperature of water may be maintained by proper adjustment. In
some very elaborate bath-rooms showers are provided at the side of the
room where there is a marble floor and marble wall surface. These things
are arranged with a multiplicity of detail, showing the ingenuity of
people who have given these matters much study, and which cannot be
fully considered in this connection. Foot-tubs, with hot and cold water
connections, are made of the same material that is used in bath-tubs,
but are not considered in the plans furnished in this book, though they
may be used at will. The bath-tub will serve the same general purpose.
As stated, the bath-tubs connect with hot and cold water; they connect
with soil pipe or drain by means of one-and-one-half-inch light lead
waste pipe, which is trapped by means of an "S" or other trap.
SAFES.
A safe is simply a lead pan which may be placed under the bath-tub, or
other enclosed fixture, to guard against accidents from overflow or
leakage. They are made of four-pound sheet lead, and are usually turned
up from two to four inches all around. The lead is formed to a bevelled
strip at the sides and end, the size of the pan being that of the
extreme outside of the fixture. There is usually an inch waste
connection to the cellar or kitchen sink. It would be highly improper to
connect a safe with the drain, trapped or otherwise, as its use under
any circumstances will be occasional, and any water that there might be
in the trap would be certain to evaporate, and in that way the safe
waste would be the means of connecting the foulness of the drain with
the house. Therefore, it is right and proper that it should connect with
the sink or the cellar floor. In that way, any discharge therefrom would
be readily noticed. Wastes are frequently placed under bath-tubs,
generally under wash-stands, when they are enclosed, but rarely or never
under a modern water-closet. They are frequently dispensed with
entirely.
WATER-CLOSETS.
Fig. 7, page 68, indicates, in perspective and in section, the more
common form of water-closet now in use, than which nothing-better has
been devised. The details of the valve connection and general form of
the closet itself, and the means of flushing it, are various, but the
general principle is the same. It is nothing more or less than a large
bowl having an "S" trap connection with soil pipe. The bowl and trap are
of white porcelain ware, in one piece. The form, as here shown, is a
washout closet, and is the one in most general use. Usually a connection
with public water service is provided from a tank above. Trap vent, as
shown, is connected with the outer air above the roof. The seat of the
closet is usually supported from the wall at the back, and rests on the
body of the porcelain, on rubber buffers, which prevent the liability of
breakage or noise, if it falls. Under any circumstances, water-closets
should never be enclosed.
WASH-STANDS.
It has been said that wash-stands are the most dangerous fixtures that
go into a house, and for that reason the greatest care should be
observed in their construction. The only material of which the bowl
proper, for use in a dwelling-house, should be made is porcelain. The
usual form is circular, and about fourteen inches in diameter. However,
they are made in various forms. The details of their construction differ
as greatly as those of the other fixtures which have been named. Bowls
are made which have the same "patent" overflow arrangements as the
bath-tub overflows that have been considered and described elsewhere. It
is usual, however, to use a rubber plug and chain. The top and back of
the wash-stand should be of marble. The top should be one and one-eighth
inch thick, counter-sunk, so that the splashed water cannot run from it
to the floor; the back need be only seven-eighths inch thick, and
generally not more than ten inches high. Sometimes it may be less. The
hot and cold water fixtures are nickel-plated; usually they are made
self-closing, to prevent the waste of water. It is necessary that they
should be so where city water is used. It is part of the city
regulations that all connections of this kind be self-closing.
Wash-stands need not be enclosed below. The marble top may be supported
on iron brackets or turned wooden legs of hard wood. Traps and other
drain connections can be neatly arranged so that their appearance is not
in any sense objectionable in the bath-room or other place. The
wash-stand should have one-and-one-half-inch light lead trapped
connection with the drain or soil pipe.
Generally speaking, it is not necessary for the trap to be ventilated,
unless it so happen that it is some distance from the soil pipe or
drain. The soil pipe, we know, is always ventilated, and if the
wash-stand is situated some distance from it, it should have a direct
communication with the outer air above the roof.
Sometimes a pitcher-cock is placed on the wash-stand in the bath-room to
enable the drawing of drinking water when the other connections are with
the cistern, it being assumed in this instance that only the water from
public water works is used for drinking purposes. The pitcher-cock is
simply one with a long neck which extends above the bowl, and is
directed into it, the pitcher being placed under it for the purpose of
filling.
LAUNDRY FITTINGS.
The fittings for a simple laundry apparatus, that would go into a house
of very moderate cost, have been described elsewhere. In this instance
we will consider only the more elaborate arrangements which have to do
with set tubs. They may be of porcelain or plain cast-iron, of cast-iron
porcelain-lined, or of brown glazed earthenware. The porcelain is of the
same general character as that mentioned for the bath-tub and sinks, and
is an expensive and very elegant material. The porcelain-lined iron tubs
are in more general use, for the reason that they are less expensive
than those of all porcelain. Brown earthenware tubs are coming to be
favorably considered, and are in every way satisfactory. Tubs made of
wood, slate, or other material, where they are in several pieces, are
objectionable. Those mentioned above are one-piece tubs, and are
generally set three together. The porcelain or brown earthenware tubs
usually have wooden rims. Sometimes these tubs are provided with covers,
though it is usual and preferable that covers be not used, and that the
water be supplied from above. The hot and cold water fixtures are
nickel-plated compression cocks, which connect with hot and cold water
sources. Generally speaking, it is best, where set tubs are used, that
an independent apparatus for heating water be provided; that is, a
laundry water heater, of which there are many different kinds, and which
are constructed on the same general principle as the arrangement
mentioned in connection with the kitchen and other water-heating
apparatus. It is entirely possible, however, to make connections with
the water-heating apparatus of the kitchen.
The drain connections are of one-and-one-half-inch light lead, and are
independently trapped for each tub. They lead to the main drain,
connecting with sewer or vault.
OUTSIDE DRAINS.
Drains outside of the house should be of vitrified or glazed earthenware
pipe, laid below the action of frost, with proper slant. They should be
well bedded and have smoothly cemented joints. The slant need be very
slight, eighteen inches in eighty feet or less may be used. It is
especially desirable that the joints be thoroughly cemented, and that
they be smooth on the inside, so that the foul matter passing through
the interior will not lodge against any projections. The surface or ends
of the pipe should never be clipped or cut for connections; "Y's" or
"T's" are used for all connections with other drains. Drain pipes from a
dwelling-house are usually five or six inches in diameter. It is quite
as important that they be not too large as that they be large enough.
Where a pipe is too large, there is not enough water in the bottom to
keep it clean. The illustration here given will make clear this point. A
six and eight inch drain is shown with the same quantity of water in
each. It is common in cases of drain connection with a vault that no
trap in the drain or soil pipe itself be used. Where sewer connection is
made, a vitrified trap of the same size as the drain is used; and it is
provided with a trap vent connection with the outer air by means of
vitrified vent and grate opening at the top.
[Illustration: Fig. 38]
Storm-water connections may be made with the main sewer, but it is best
that they be made between the house and the trap of main drain. In this
way there is no danger of the sewer having connection with the down
spouts in the event of the evaporation of the water in the trap of the
storm-water connection. The modern plan of city sewer systems is to have
independent service for storm water and house drain connections.
GREASE SINKS.
The grease sink is lined with brick, and is usually of four or five
barrels capacity. It is cemented the same as the cistern, is generally
twenty or twenty-five feet away from the house, and has a four-inch
vitrified drain connection with the waste from the kitchen sink or other
sink in which greasy water may be deposited. The sink itself has a
siphon connection with the main drain or vault, and, being provided with
an iron top, the deposit of grease or other material may be removed if
necessary. In some instances a sink of this kind is required to be used
to collect all solid matter before the drainage connection passes from
the property.
* * * * *
The "S" trap only has been distinctly mentioned. There are hundreds of
others, all constructed upon the same general principle. Some are
provided with mechanical means of closing the opening leading to the
source of supply, and, in addition to this, they are provided with a
seal of water depending upon some form or condition of the "S" trap.
This principle is invariable in the construction of traps. No trap
should be used unless provided with a trap screw of the same size as the
drain itself, which will admit of its being opened when necessary. It is
not uncommon that rings or other jewelry get into the waste of
wash-stand or bath-tub; they may be recovered by taking out the trap
screw. Again, should the trap become fouled or clogged, the matter may
be removed in the same way.
NICKEL FITTINGS.
For the kitchen sink, nickel fittings are preferable to brass, because
they are more easily cleaned.