INSIDE WOOD-WORK.--FLOORS.--SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS.--TABULATED
STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.--DIFFERENT KINDS OF WOOD.--DOORS AND
FRAMES.--FLY SCREENS.--INSIDE CASINGS.--WAINSCOTING.--INSIDE
SHUTTERS.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.--KITCHEN SINK AND
FITTINGS.--KITCHEN TABLES.--CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.--WOOD-WORK FOR
BATH-TUB.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--TANK.--PICTURE
MOULDING.--CLOSET
FITTINGS.--BROOM-RACK.--CEDAR-CLOSET.--DRY-BOX.--CLOCK
SHELF.--CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.--PANTRY FITTINGS.--STAIRWAYS.
INSIDE WOOD-WORK.
All material should be perfectly clear, first-class, thoroughly
seasoned, kiln-dried, dressed material, free from imperfections tending
to impair its use, durability, strength, or appearance. All inside
finish excepting floors should be sand-papered. Where an especially good
finish is desired, all should be scraped as well.
FLOORS.
In preparing for floors, it is not unusual to make arrangements for
preventing the passage of sound. This is done by deadening. The usual
method is to nail strips about two inches and a half from the top edge
of the joist, on which are laid one-inch boards. This leaves an inch and
a half between their surface and the upper edge of the joist. This may
be filled in with concrete, mineral wool, or other non-conducting
material. Either is very effective in preventing the passage of sound
from the floors to the rooms below. In a dwelling-house where two
floors only are in common use, it is only necessary to deaden the second
floor.
A permanent sheathing floor of the same material that is used for rough
siding may be placed over all joists of first and second floors for a
floor during the plastering of the house. This does not act as
deadening, unless concrete or mineral wool be placed over it. It is well
to have a floor of this kind for use during plastering. It also makes
the lower floor warmer. It should be covered with building-paper before
the finished floor is laid. Finished floors should extend throughout the
first and second stories and the attic. They are commonly of pine or
other soft wood. The material is tongued and grooved, secret-nailed, and
should be smoothed off after laying. The boards should never be wider
than five and a half inches, nor less in thickness than seven-eighths of
an inch. They should be free from sap, large, loose, or black knots.
Hard-wood floors may be of hard pine, oak, maple, or other hard wood
that is readily obtainable or desirable. This material should not be
more than two and three-fourths inches in width, nor less than
seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and should be tongued and
grooved, secret-nailed, and smoothed off and scraped after laying. A
better grade of pine flooring than that mentioned may be had if desired.
It is best that all floors be laid after plastering. However, this is
not the common practice. The carpenter should cut out flooring as
directed, and prepare for hearths in proper places. Other inside dressed
wood-work should never be placed in position until after the plastering
is finished and dry.
The following table is from a specification in use by myself, and shows
the kind of lumber, style of doors, finish of wood, painters' finish,
and rooms supplied with plate glass, and the general style of hardware.
The detail specification makes clear the points here outlined. The
filling out of the blanks indicates the range and style of finish which
frequently occur. The lettering of the doors and finish refers to
drawings and details, a part of which are given in this connection.
+---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+
| | | D F | T O D | P F | R W P | S H |
| | | O I | H F O | A I | O I L | T A |
| | | O N | I O | I N | O T A | Y R |
| | | R I | C R | N I | M H T | L D |
| | KIND | S S | K . | T S | S E | E W |
| FLOORS. | OF | H | N | E H | - | A |
| | LUMBER. | A . | E | R . | G | O R |
| | | N | S | S | L | F E |
| | | D | S | ' | A | . |
| | | | | | S | |
| | | | | | S | |
| | | | | | . | |
+---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+
| FIRST FLOOR. | | | | | | |
| Front Hall | Qu. Oak. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- |
| Parlor | " " | A | 1-3/4 |All Oil.| -- | -- |
| Sitting-Room | " Sycamore.| A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- |
| Library | " " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- |
| Rear Hall | Gum. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- |
| Dining-Room | " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- |
| Chamber | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Kitchen | Plain Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Bedrooms | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Pantry | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| China Room | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| | | | | | | |
| SECOND FLOOR. | | | | | | |
| Front Hall | Gum. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Chamber | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Rear Bedroom | Poplar. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Alcove | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Bath-Room | Qu. Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Rear Hall | Pine. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
| Other rooms | " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- |
+---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+
It may be said, in general terms, in regard to the different kinds of
wood used in finishing a house, that, all things considered, hard wood
of one kind or another is preferable, for the reason that it stands the
general wear and tear of house-keeping with less evidence of the
struggle. Soft wood--pine or poplar--is only to be used because it is
cheaper than the other. Quartered oak, quartered sycamore, cherry,
maple, walnut and chestnut may be classed as the hard woods in ordinary
use in finishing houses of moderate cost. Gum is difficult to class. It
is neither hard nor soft. Others might be mentioned in this same
connection. Pine and other resinous woods are mentioned as soft woods;
as is also poplar, called in some sections white-wood. Any of these
woods may be oil-finished, according to the general formula indicated
elsewhere, or any of them may be stained. Birch stains very nicely.
DOORS AND FRAMES.
Door-frames, when rabbeted, should not be less than one and
three-eighths inch in thickness. Sometimes the strip is screwed to the
frame. In that case the frame is often not more than one and one-eighth
inch thick. One and three-eighths inch, however, is better. Front doors
or principal entrance doors are frequently hard wood when all the others
are soft wood. All outside doors are generally filled with glass in
their upper panels. Sliding doors should be the same general design as
other adjacent doors. One additional panel to each additional twelve
inches in excess of width of other doors may be provided. Sliding doors
should be hung from above. Hard-wood doors are usually solid. All
excepting pine are best made of a veneer, one-fourth inch thick on a
one-and-three-eighths-inch pine body, as indicated by Fig. 35. Sometimes
doors are made in two thicknesses of hard wood. This is not as good as
a single thickness. Three thicknesses are better. The only door to be
recommended, however, is the veneered door. Such doors will not warp;
others are liable to do so. Transoms may be hung on pivots, and should
be provided with catches, and, if heavy or high, with adjustable lifts.
Transoms are sometimes used in doors on the second floor, though this
practice is less common than in the past. Where doors with transoms are
used, it is not uncommon to have the closet doors extend to the full
height of the transom tops, and provide additional top panels. Doors six
feet ten inches in height, or less, and not more than one and
three-eighths inch in thickness, may be hung on two three-and-one-half
by three-and-one-half-inch buts. If higher than this or wider than three
feet, they should be hung on three buts or hinges.
[Illustration: Fig. 35]
Doors in unfinished cellars may be made of two thicknesses of
seven-eighths beaded flooring; frames the same as in rooms above. A
seven-eighths batten door, with one-and-three-eighths-inch frame, should
be provided for man-hole in cellar. Scuttle doors, where required, may
be seven-eighths inch in thickness, battened.
[Illustration: Fig. 36]
Cuts 35, 36, 37 indicate ordinary style of inside door and window
finish, the sizes and heights being marked. Doors from dining-room to
china-closet and china-closet to kitchen should be hung on double-spring
hinges, so that they will swing either way and come back to position.
The slide from the kitchen to china-closet or dining-room should be hung
the same as sash, with plaited cotton sash-cord, pulleys, and weights,
and provided with lifts and bolt fastenings.
[Illustration: Fig. 37]
Frames should be provided for opening into bay windows, window-seats,
alcoves, and pilasters.
Stop beads for glazed and sliding doors should be secured with
round-headed screws.
There should be corner beads for external angles.
FLY SCREEN.
In the modern house all outside openings, from cellar to attic, are
provided with fly screens. They are now made by concerns who make it a
business to do this work, and are much better than those made by the
ordinary carpenter. They are arranged so that they will slide up and
down on the inside or outside stop, and are finished in every way to
correspond with the other wood-work of the house. They need not be more
than three-quarters of an inch in thickness if properly made. A small
strip is secured to the stop bead, and a corresponding groove is cut in
the screen frame. A spring therein holds it firm, and admits of their
removal without trouble or waste of time. Special hardware is provided
for door and window screens.
INSIDE CASINGS.
The commonest way of constructing casings at this time is indicated in
Figs. 35 and 36, showing inside of doors and windows. This is one of the
least expensive forms, and is adapted to all ordinary work. The casings
are usually seven-eighths inch thick, the corner and plinth blocks one
and one-eighth inch thick. The plinth block comes at the bottom of the
casing. One reason that this form of casing is in such general use is,
that the corner block conceals any slight shrinkage which there may be
in the wood. Where there is a mitred or flush joint, the shrinkage is
certain to show. Casings as elaborate as any one is inclined to pay for
may be used. Window, door, alcove, and other casings are generally all
of one design in a room. All girders and projections below ceilings
should be cased.
BASE.
The base-board around the room should be plain, so that it may be
readily cleaned. Where it is ornamented, it adds nothing to the
appearance of the room. There should be a base for all plastered walls.
Generally they should be not more than eight inches high, seven-eighths
inch thick, bevelled at the top and a quarter round at the bottom. A
five-eighths-inch adjustable lip may be put on at the top, to take up
the inequalities in the plaster. The closet base may be formed of a
quarter round only if it is plastered and skimmed to the floor. It is
well to have as little wood-work as possible in the closet.
WAINSCOTING.
Wainscoting kitchen, bath, and other rooms is not as common as it once
was. This is because wood-work is more difficult to keep clean than
plastering. Wherever there is wainscoting, there must necessarily be
joints. These are difficult to keep clean. Panel wood-work, or other
form of decoration for wall or ceiling, may be used in rooms according
to the disposition of the owner and the taste of the architect.
INSIDE SHUTTERS.
Inside shutters are not so universally used in good houses as they were
a few years ago. Draperies, though more expensive, are preferred, and
are taking their place. Inside sliding shutters, arranged in several
sections and constructed according to the general plan described for
fly-screens, are in more common use. Rolling slats which roll into a
pocket are to be thought of only in connection with an expensive
dwelling. The common inside shutter is ordinarily seven-eighths inch in
thickness, four panels wide, beaded, and cut at the meeting rail; and
the four centre panels are provided with movable slats. The special
designs of inside shutters mentioned are manufactured by various
establishments throughout the country, and are advertised in various
magazines and periodicals. Under any circumstances the owner will have
to investigate proprietary goods and special furnishings for himself.
They are not to be considered in a work of this kind.
WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.
All should be put up in a way to make plumbing readily accessible by the
removal of screws. The pipe duct should be located as required in the
kitchen, and pass from basement to attic floor. The inside measurement
should be seven by twelve inches. It should be constructed of seven
eighths-inch lumber. In case of stud partitions, the duct may be let
into the wall the full depth allowed by studding. The front will project
into the kitchen. All should be of clear lumber, the same as other wood
used in finishing. A ventilating opening, five inches in diameter, may
be provided at the top of the duct. This may be connected with pipe and
funnel, or other device, placed over the kitchen range. The carpenter
should provide pipe boards for all pipe runs. The following, in regard
to wood-work for plumbing, is from the specification of an architect:
KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.--Wood rim, 7/8 by 2-1/2 inches; skirt,
7/8 by 6-1/2 inches; support on cleat at back, plain oak,
1-3/8-inch turned legs in front.
SPLASH-BOARD.--7/8 by 14 inches, scurfed back; 7/8 by 2 inches,
plain top.
DRAIN-BOARD.--Shall be 22 inches long by 21 inches wide, 7/8 inch
thick, 1 inch incline; channelled top; skirt, 3 by 7/8 cleated with
two cleats at bottom. One end shall rest on sink, side on wall
cleat, other end on turned leg.
Full length of tables, sink, and drain.
TABLES.--There shall be two tables connected with drain and sink,
each 21 inches wide, 2 by 6 inches long, 7/8 thick; skirt, 3 by 7/8
inches. Cleated back. Secured and supported same as drain.
OTHER SINKS:--
CELLAR SINK.--Provide 7/8-by-3-inch supporting rim, 2-1/2 inches by
7/8 inch top. 1-3/8 square legs.
BATH-TUB.--Case sides and ends with 7/8-by-2-3/4-inch oak board,
tongued and grooved material, secret-nailed. Batten foot-casing,
and put in in one piece with round-headed blue screws. Cap top.
SPLASH-BOARD.--Wainscoting same as tub casing, 6 inches high. Cap
top in two members 7/8 inch thick.
WATER-CLOSET.--Hinged flap and seat, each 7/8 inch thick; skirt,
7/8 by 5 inches; support on 1-3/8 turned legs in front, cleat at
back.
Case water-closet tank, mould top.
WASH-STANDS.--Provide supports under marble top. Case sides same as
specified for tub. Make cleated door in front of same material.
Provide hinges and fastenings.
TANK.--A tank shall be placed in attic; capacity, 8 barrels.
Construct with 1-3/4-inch ploughed and tongued material, with two
3/8-inch rods, bolts, and nuts at each end, and cleats across top
at middle.
In this house there shall be the following plumbing fixtures, to be
fitted up as above: 1 kitchen sink, cellar sink, sink, 1 bath-tub,
1 water-closet, 1 wash-stand.
PICTURE MOULDINGS.
Picture mouldings should be provided on all plastered walls excepting
those of kitchen and pantries. It is usual to place the picture moulding
on a line with the top of the door; that is, so that it comes just below
the top of the corner block.
CLOSET-FITTINGS.
Shelves should be seven-eighths inch thick, number and arrangement as
desired.
The following is a schedule from closet-fittings. Provide hooks in
closets as follows:--
One row to cleat on wall 5 feet 3 inches from floor.
One row under side of shelf.
One row to cleat on wall 3 feet 6 inches from floor in children's
closets.
DRAWERS FOR CLOSETS.
Drawers for closets are best made by a cabinet-maker. If not, they
should be modelled in all respects after cabinet work. Cedar closets
are not as common as they once were. As people have more to place in
them, there is less confidence in their efficacy. The following is from
a specification:--
BROOM-RACK.--Provide in space as directed 1 broom-rack, with
cast-iron broom-holder, for sweep-broom, whisk-broom; hooks for
dust-pan and bucket.
MEDICINE-CHEST.--Provide in closet a medicine-chest 8 by 10 by 16
inches, with 7/8 panelled and hinged door. Approved lock.
Exposed wood-work thereof same as room in which closet is placed.
CEDAR-CLOSET.--Closet shall be lined, ceiled, and fitted up with
red cedar.
DRY-BOX.--Secured on wall adjacent to kitchen range shall be placed
a drying-box for scrub-rags, brushes, etc., 8 inches deep by 18
inches wide by 24 inches high, constructed with 7/8 material,
inside measurements. Provide hinged 7/8-inch panelled door with
fastening. Top, bottom, and shelves shall be perforated with
3/4-auger-holes for passage of warm air through the box.
SOAP-BOX.--Constructed same as dry-box. Size, 9 inches deep, 20
inches wide, 30 inches high.
Door, 7/8 inch thick, panelled. Provide approved lock. Shelves, 5/8
thick, set into sides, 3 inches apart. Perforate bottom and shelves
with 3/4-inch auger-holes, and connect top with kitchen or
vent-flue.
CLOCK-SHELF.--Provide 8-inch moulded clock-shelf, 7/8 inch thick,
in kitchen.
VENTILATOR. CLOTHES-CHUTE. COAL-CHUTE. COAL-BINS IN CELLAR.
CHINA-ROOM SPECIFICATION.
CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--Shelves as directed below
and above. Lower shelves 7/8 inch thick.
Lower doors 7/8 panelled, upper doors glazed.
Provide hinges and fastenings for all.
There shall be 8 inches space between 7/8-inch top of lower section
and bottom shelf of upper section. Upper door shall not come below
under side of this upper section shelf.
TABLE.--Construction same as in kitchen.
SINK.
DRAWERS.
PANTRY SPECIFICATION.
CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--As indicated. Doors below
and shelves above, same as specified for china. No doors above.
DOUGH-BOARD.--Provide constructed same as tables specified for
kitchen, except that it shall be supported on brackets.
FLOUR-BIN.--Shall be 18 inches deep by 24 inches high in front, 28
inches in rear, by ---- long, ---- compartments. Set 4 inches from
floor. Top cleated and hinged. Lumber 7/8 inch thick.
FLOUR-BIN.
The flour-bin described in the specifications is the old kind with the
hinged top. Another kind that has been used successfully is here
illustrated.
[Illustration: Flour-bin Section.]
[Illustration: Flour-bin Front]
The receptacle for flour is pivoted in the manner indicated by the
section. The pivot position is indicated on the drawing by the point of
the arrow. The dotted lines on the section indicate the position of the
flour receptacle when it is open. It is pulled open by the hand. The
knob is shown on the drawing of front. As soon as it is released it
falls back into a closed position. It is pivoted so that it remains
closed unless held open. The front drawing indicates a flour-bin of this
kind with three receptacles; the larger one for flour, and the two
smaller ones for meal and graham. The marble dough-stone can be placed
on the top of a bin of this kind. If there is no other room for the bin
it can be placed in the lower section of the pantry cupboard, and can
take the space ordinarily given one of the doors. The pantry cupboard is
illustrated and described in Chapter VII.
BOXES FOR PANTRY SUPPLIES.
These boxes are constructed on the same principle as the flour-bin, just
described. They are pivoted and arranged in a row, and may be set on a
pantry shelf. The drawing indicates eight of these boxes, four of them
nine by twelve inches, and four five by three and three-fourths inches.
These boxes are of tin, the frame only being of wood. The socket into
which the pivot fits is open at the bottom, so that the box can be
lifted off the pivot and taken out and washed. An arrangement such as
this takes very little room, and the boxes are always closed unless held
open. They are so pivoted that they fall into a closed position as soon
as released. Two of these boxes in a china-closet would be convenient to
hold bread and cake.
[Illustration: Box for Pantry Supplies.]
STAIRS.
The wood-work of the stairway should always be of hard wood. Where hard
wood is used for entire finish, the stairway is best of the same
variety. The treads should always be one and one-eighth inch in
thickness, and never less than ten inches in width. The risers may be
seven-eighths inch thick and never more than seven and one-half inches
in height; Square or turned newel posts are in common use. Winders
should not be used for the main stairway. Square turns at the landing
should be made. Sometimes the rear stairway is of the same general style
and design as the front. When it is an open stairway, it is necessary
that this should be the case. A rear box stairway, the cellar and attic
stairway, or, in fact, any box stairway, should have the treads and
risers the same thickness and general dimensions as those mentioned for
the front. However, they need not be of hard wood. They should always be
provided with hand-rails. All lumber for cellar or attic stairways
should be clear and dressed, and quite as well finished as that of any
other part of the house. When the cellar is not plastered, the side
lining for cellar stairways should be seven-eighths-inch flooring below
the first-story plastering. This flooring should be dressed on both
sides. The outside cellar-way should have dressed treads and risers one
and three-fourths inch thick. The wall should be capped, preferably with
stone, and the outside cellar door should be of iron. Where economy is
necessary, one-and-three-fourths-inch oak coping and doors may be used.