LETTER XLVI.

_Cambridge.—Republican Tendency of Schools counteracted at

College.—College a useful Place for the debauched Students, a

melancholy one for others.—Fellowships.—Advantage of a University

Education.—Not so necessary as it once was._

Wednesday.

From Alconbury-Hill to Cambridge is two short stages,—we passed through

Huntingdon, the birth-place of Oliver Cromwell, and travelled over a

dismal flat, the country northward being one great fen. The whole of

these extensive fens is said once to have been dry and productive ground

reduced to this state by some earthquake or deluge, unremembered in

history. Tools found beneath the soil, and submersed forests, are the

proofs. A century and half ago they began to drain them, and the

draining still proceeds. In old times they were the favourite retreat of

the religious: the waters were at that time carried off by great rivers

through the level, above twenty leagues long, which formed innumerable

lakes, many of them of considerable size, and on the islands in these a

hermitage or a convent was placed in safety from the sudden attack of

the Northern Sea Kings, and in that solitude which its holy inhabitants

desired. The greater number of the old English saints flourished in this

district.

A singular custom prevailed here about fourscore years ago, and perhaps

may not yet be wholly discontinued. The corpse was put into the ground a

few hours after death, and about a week afterwards they buried an empty

coffin with funeral ceremonies. Possibly this strange peculiarity may

have been introduced upon occasion of some pestilence, when it would

have been dangerous to keep the body longer. The body is always kept

some days in England, usually till signs of decay appear.

At length we came in sight of Cambridge:—How inferior to the first view

of Oxford! yet its lofty buildings and old trees gave it a

characteristic appearance, and were more beautiful because in the midst

of such a dreary land. The streets are narrow, and the greater number of

the colleges mean brick buildings; there is, however, one edifice, the

Chapel of King's College, which exceeds any thing in Oxford, and

probably in the world. This unrivalled edifice is dedicated to Mary the

most pure and to St Nicholas. It was finished by the arch-apostate

Henry VIII., when he had just effected his adulterous marriage with Anne

Boleyn, and here their names appear twined together with true lovers'

knots, the only place where his initials remain joined with hers.

In this university are sixteen colleges.[11] The principal one is

dedicated to the most holy Trinity; it consists of two handsome squares,

or quadrangles as they are called, the larger of which the Cantabrigians

would fain believe to be finer than the great quadrangle of Christ

Church at Oxford, of which they may perhaps persuade those who have

never been at Oxford. The Library, the Chapel, and the Refectory were

shown to us; the two latter are little curious, but in the anti-chapel

is a statue of the great Newton by Roubiliac, a name of great eminence

in this country. It is a good example of Vandyke in marble, and that

will give you the best idea of its style and excellence. The sculptor

has endeavoured to make it picturesque, by representing the texture and

the light and shade of silk in the drapery; and as the vulgar can always

comprehend dexterity of hand, and can seldom comprehend any thing above

it, the statue has obtained much admiration for its faults.

The Library is a most magnificent room about an hundred paces in length,

with a painted window at the end, of which it would not be easy to say

whether the design or the execution be most faulty: in this, Minerva,

Bacon, George III., and Newton are all brought together in their

respective costumes. Besides a splendid collection of books, there is a

cabinet of medals here, but they are seldom shown lest they should be

stolen, as books frequently have been. It is singular that in the public

libraries and collections of England there are more precautions taken

against thieves than in any other country in Europe. It is not often I

understand when an offender is discovered that the law is enforced

against him; but now and then, the librarian said, they were obliged to

make an example; and he turned to a MS. Catalogue, and showed us a

record that a member of the University had been degraded for seven years

for this offence. In the University library we were shown several books

which had been stolen, and the title-pages nearly cut out, in order to

avoid detection. Offences of this kind, though in their consequences so

truly abominable, seem to be little thought of. Indeed, it should appear

that the English scarcely think it any crime to plunder the public in

any way.

I had an introduction to a resident member of ——; it proved a very

valuable one, and there are few of my English friends from whose

conversation I have derived so much instruction. The objects of

curiosity in Cambridge were soon seen, but we remained a few days there,

for the pleasure of his society. The University was almost empty, it

being now the vacation time. There is a greater variety of dresses here

than at Oxford, the colleges not dressing all alike, and some wearing

purple instead of black. The privileged class also wear a hat instead of

the academical cap. A round church of the Templars, built after the Holy

Sepulchre, is one of the most remarkable things in this university.—I

was pleased too with the sight of a huge concave celestial globe, in the

midst of which you stand, and it revolves round you. The Cam, a lazy

stream, winds behind the town and through the college walks, collecting

filth as it goes. "Yonder," said our friend, "are the Gogmagog

Hills;"—in spite of their gigantic appellation they are so very like a

plain, that I looked all around to see where they were.

* * * * *

"What a happy life," said I to our Cambridge friend, "must you lead in

your English universities! You have the advantages of a monastery

without its restrictions, the enjoyments of the world without its

cares,—the true _otium cum dignitate_." He shook his head and answered,

"It is a joyous place for the young, and a convenient place for all of

us,—but for none is it a happy one—and he soon convinced me that I was

mistaken in the favourable judgment which I had formed. I will endeavour

to retrace the substance of a long and interesting evening's

conversation.

It is a joyous place for the young,—joy and happiness however are not

synonymous. They come hither from school, no longer to be treated as

children; their studies and their amusement are almost at their own

discretion, and they have money at command. But as at college they first

assume the character of man, it is there also that they are first made

to feel their relative situation in society. Schools in England,

especially those public ones from which the universities are chiefly

supplied, are truly republican. The master perhaps will pay as much

deference to rank as he possibly can, and more than he honestly

ought:—it is, however, but little that he can pay the institutions have

been too wisely framed to be counteracted, and titles and families are

not regarded by the boys. The distinctions which they make are in the

spirit of a barbarous, not of a commercial calculating people; bodily

endowments hold the first, mental the second place. The best bruiser

enjoys the highest reputation; next to him, but after a long interval,

comes the best cricket-player, the third place, at a still more

respectful distance, is allowed to the cleverest, who, in the opinion of

his fellows, always takes place of the best scholar. In the world,—and

the college is not out of it like the cloister,—all this is reversed

into its right order; but the gifts of fortune are placed above all.

Whatever habits and feelings of equality may have been generated at

school, are to be got rid of at college,—and this is soon done. The

first thing which the new student perceives on his arrival, is, that his

school-fellows, who are there before him, pass him in the streets as if

they knew him not, and perhaps stare him full in the face, that he may

be sure it is not done through inadvertency. The ceremony of

introduction must take place before two young men who for years have

eaten at the same table, studied in the same class, and perhaps slept in

the same chamber,—can possibly know each other when they meet at

college.

There is to be found every where a great number of those persons whom we

cannot prove to be human beings by any rational characteristic which

they possess; but who must be admitted to be so, by a sort of _reductio

ad absurdum_, because they cannot possibly be any thing else. They pass

for men, in the world, because it has pleased God for wise purposes,

however inscrutable to us, to set them upon two legs instead of four; to

give them smooth skins and no tail, and to enable them to speak without

having their tongues slit. They are like those weeds which will spring

up and thrive in every soil and every climate, and which no favourable

circumstances can ever improve into utility. It is of little consequence

whether they shoot water-fowl, attend horse-races, frequent the brothel,

and encourage the wine trade in one place or another; but as a few years

of this kind of life usually satisfy a man for the rest of it, it is

convenient that there should be a place appointed where one of this

description can pass through this course of studies out of sight of his

relations, and without injuring his character; and from whence he can

come with the advantage of having been at the University, and a

qualification which enables him to undertake the cure of souls. The

heretical bishops never enquire into the moral conduct of those upon

whom they lay their unhallowed hands,—and as for the quantity of

learning which is required,—M. Maillardet, who exhibits his Androeides

in London, could put enough into an automaton.

Such men as these enjoy more happiness, such as their happiness is, at

the University than during any other part of their lives. It is a

pleasant place also for the lilies of the world, they who have neither

to toil nor to spin; but for those who have the world before them, there

is perhaps no place in their whole journey where they feel less at ease.

It is the port from whence they are to embark,—and who can stand upon

the beach and look upon the sea whereon he is about to trust himself and

his fortunes, without feeling his heart sink at the uncertainty of the

adventure? True it is that these reflections do not continue long upon a

young man's mind, yet they occur so often as insensibly to affect its

whole feelings. The way of life is like the prospect from his window,—he

beholds it not while he is employed, but in the intervals of employment,

when he lifts up his eyes, the prospect is before him. The frequent

change of his associates is another melancholy circumstance. A sort of

periodical and premature mortality takes place among his friends: term

after term they drop off to their respective allotments, which are

perhaps so distant from his own, that years may elapse, or the whole

lease of life be run out, before he ever again meets with the man whom

habits of daily and intimate intercourse had endeared to him.

Let us now suppose the student to be successful in his collegiate

pursuits, he obtains a fellowship,—and is, in the opinion of his

friends, provided for for life. Settled for life he would indeed have

been according to the original institution, and it still is a provision

for him as long as he retains it,—but mark the consequences of the

schism,—of altering the parts of an establishment without considering

their relations to the whole. A certain number of benefices belong to

the college, to which, as they become vacant, the fellows succeed

according to seniority, vacating their fellowships by accepting a

benefice, or by marrying. Here one of the evils of a married clergy is

perceived. Where celibacy is never regarded as a virtue, it is naturally

considered as a misfortune. Attachments are formed more easily perhaps

in this country than in any other, because there is little restraint in

the intercourse between the sexes, and all persons go so much from home

into public. But the situation of the college-fellow who has engaged his

affections is truly pitiable. Looking with envious eyes at those above

him on the list, and counting the ages of those who hold the livings for

which he is to wait, he passes years after years in this disquieting and

wretched state of hope. The woman, in like manner, wears away her youth

in dependent expectation, and they meet at last, if they live to meet,

not till the fall of the leaf—not till the habits and tempers of both

are become fixt and constitutional, so as no longer to be capable of

assimilating each to the other.

I enquired what were the real advantages of these institutions to the

country at large, and to the individuals who study in them. "They are of

this service," he replied, "to the country at large, that they are the

great schools by which established opinions are inculcated and

perpetuated. I do not know that men gain much here, yet it is a regular

and essential part of our system of education, and they who have not

gone through it always feel that their education has been defective. A

knowledge of the world, that is to say, of our world and of the men in

it, is gained here, and that knowledge remains when Greek and geometry

are forgotten." I asked him which was the best of the two universities;

he answered that Cambridge was as much superior to Oxford, as Oxford was

to Salamanca. I could not forbear smiling at his scale of depreciation:

he perceived it, and begged my pardon, saying, that he as little

intended to undervalue the establishments of my country, as to overrate

the one of which he was himself a member. "We are bad enough," said he,

"Heaven knows, but not so bad as Oxford. They are now attempting to

imitate us in some of those points wherein the advantage on our part is

too notorious to be disputed. The effect may be seen in another

generation,—meantime the imitation is a confession of inferiority."

"Still," said I, "we may regard the universities as the seats of

learning and of the Muses." "As for the Muses, sir," said he, "you have

traversed the banks of the Cam, and must know whether you have seen any

nine ladies there who answer their description. We do certainly produce

verses both Greek and Latin which are worthy of gold medals, and English

ones also, after the newest and most approved receipt for verse-making.

Of leading, such as is required for the purposes of tuition there is

much,—beyond it, except in mathematics, none. In this we only share the

common degeneracy. The Mohammedans believe that when Gog and Magog are

to come, the race of men will have dwindled to such littleness, that a

shoe of one of the present generation will serve them for a house. If

this prophecy be typical of the intellectual diminution of the species,

Gog and Magog may soon be expected in the neighbourhood of their own

hills."

"The truth is, sir," he continued, "that the institutions of men grow

old like men themselves, and, like women, are always the last to

perceive their own decay. When universities were the only schools of

learning they were of great and important utility; as soon as there were

others, they ceased to be the best, because their forms were prescribed,

and they could adopt no improvement till long after it was generally

acknowledged. There are other causes of decline.—We educate for only one

profession: when colleges were founded that one was the most important;

it is now no longer so; they who are destined for the others find it

necessary to study elsewhere, and it begins to be perceived that this is

not a necessary stage upon the road. This might be remedied. We have

professors of every thing, who hold their situations and do nothing. In

Edinburgh the income of the professor depends upon his exertions, and in

consequence the reputation of that university is so high, that

Englishmen think it necessary to finish their education by passing a

year there. They learn shallow metaphysics there, and come back worse

than they went, inasmuch as it is better to be empty than flatulent."

[11] Accurately speaking, there are twelve colleges and four halls.—TR.

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