USK CASTLE AND CHURCH--EXCURSION TO RAGLAN--ELEGANT RUINS OF RAGLAN
CASTLE--VIEWS FROM THE DEVAUDON--ROMAN ANTIQUITIES AT
CAERWENT--TESSELATED PAVEMENT.
Usk, supposed to be the Burrium of the Romans, occupies a flat situation
on the banks of its river. Though now a small place, in great part
untenanted and falling to ruin, {208} it was formerly of very
considerable extent. The form and dimensions of its ancient boundary may
be traced in an imperfect rampart among the adjoining fields and
orchards. The figure is not oblong, as most Roman works of the kind
were, but irregularly rectilinear. On a gentle eminence in the northern
precinct of the town is the castle, famous in history for withstanding
many a fierce assault; but the ruin has little picturesque attraction:
such parts as are not converted to the domestic purposes of a farm-yard
are so enveloped in ivy, as scarcely to afford a characterizing form
externally. We entered the castle through a Gothic gateway: vestiges of
the baronial hall appear on the east side; and some of the towers, with
round arched apertures, seem of the earliest construction: but we have no
certain accounts when the castle was founded.
Not far from the castle is the church, still a large structure, though
much contracted from its original extent. The tower, in which circular
arches are introduced, is the oldest part of the edifice; the body of the
church is Gothic. This church belonged to a Benedictine priory of five
nuns; and part of the priory-house is now standing, a little southward of
the Church, in the occupation of a farmer. The common prison, a Gothic
building near the bridge, was formerly a Roman Catholic chapel. {209}
There are several ancient encampments in the neighbourhood of Usk. That
of Craeg-y-garcyd, crowning a woody precipice on the west side of the
river, about a mile above the town, is supposed by Harris to be Roman.
Its figure is very irregular, and remarkable for seven very large tumuli
within the rampart. About two miles from Usk, in our way to Raglan, we
passed Campwood on our left, another encampment, of art oval figure,
entirely covered with wood, but not remarkable either in its situation or
construction.
Our ride to Raglan traversed a bold undulating country of uncommon
richness, where the luxuriance of the soil was alike conspicuous in
impervious woods or teeming orchards sweeping over the hills, and verdant
meadows sweetly carpeting the vallies.
"When morn, her rosy steps in th' eastern clime
Advancing, sow'd the earth with orient pearl,"
we began our journey; and this range of fertility but disclosed itself in
partial gleams through the exhaling dew, as we ascended a hill from Usk.
Advancing, the mists disappeared, and we quickly found ourselves in a
sequestered valley, whose high encircling hills were variously decorated
with a profusion of wood: the morning sun brilliantly shone on the dewy
verdure; and we were admiring the charming scenery, while our spirits
partook of its cheerfulness, when a huntsman's horn resounded from a
neighbouring thicket, and echoed through the hills: a deep-mouthed pack,
joining in full chorus, announced a _throwing-off_. The concert
continued, though the performers remained unseen as we anxiously skirted
the dale; but our road soon took an ascent, in the precise direction of
the hunt; and, gaining an eminence, a new vale and its accompanyments
opened to us, yet without the hunting party. However, we had not long
gazed in disappointment when, from the dark umbrage of a thick wood, the
hounds rushed forward like a wave over the meadows; the men and horses
were not far behind; but, scouring a descent that would have scared a
lowland sportsman, pursued the game, which continued out of sight. But
at length we saw Reynard skulk from a ditchy fence in a field before us,
and dash across the meadows: the hounds and hunters were close at his
heels. A loud shout from the party, a superior yell in the dogs, and the
strained exertions of the animal, proclaimed a general view: we heartily
joined in the halloo; and even our sorry jades displayed unusual spirit;
for they pricked up their ears, and absolutely began a gallop to join in
the chase; but a gate near a yard high opposed an insurmountable obstacle
to that intention, and obliged us to remain inactive spectators while the
party veered up a woody hill and finally disappeared from us.
Reluctantly parting from this animating scene, we entered the little
village of RAGLAN; where an old woman, knitting at the door of her
cottage, proffered her service to take care of our horses while we walked
over a fallow field to the superb ruins of RAGLAN CASTLE.
[Picture: Raglan Castle]
The approach led up a gentle eminence; but a screen of high elms and
thick underwood, issuing from the moat, intervened between us and the
castle, which remained concealed, until, penetrating the thicket, a
display of the ruin burst upon us, elegantly beautiful! Sweetly
picturesque! No theatrical scene was ever designed in a happier taste,
or unfolded itself to admiring beholders with a more sudden and
impressive effect. In this _coup d'oeil_, the Gothic portal and two
elegant embattled towers immediately arrested the eye. Of the polygonal
towers that formerly defended the entrance, one is completely hidden in a
majestic mantle of ivy, which descends in a profuse festoon over the
gateway. The other, admirably contrasting, and in a most perfect state
of preservation, rears its beautiful machicolated summit with scarcely
any leafy incumbrance: yet a few tasteful tufts of ivy sparingly issue
from the windows and oillets of the tower, and wave their elegant
tendrils over the glistening polish of the walls. {214} Another tower of
similar beauty, but superior dimensions, appears a little further, at the
eastern angle of the structure. On the other side of the porch, the
ruins are concealed by a profuse pile of ivy; but some lofty portions of
the ruin start from the verdure with considerable elegance; and two
windows, standing one over the other, exhibit an effect of ornamental
relief in their freizes and mouldings that would not discredit any age.
From this assemblage of beautiful objects we fixed our attention on the
massive citadel, placed rather obliquely in front of the ornamented
ruins. One half of this structure was blown up by order of Cromwell,
upon the taking of the castle by Fairfax: from the remaining section it
appears to have been a hexagonal building of five stories, whose sides
were flanked by semicircular bastions covering each angle. The citadel
is surrounded by a moat and terrace, with a wall, in which appear niches,
once adorned with statues of the Roman emperors. The rough and
threatening aspect of these broken walls, and the ponderous bulk of
disjointed fragments, falling in the same point of view with the gentle
and decorative parts just described, strongly contrast each other, and
heighten the varied character of the picture.
This charming _morceau_ was illumined by a morning sun, which shone
direct on the marble-like surface of the towers, bringing forward all
their elegance of form and enrichment with decisive superiority. The
secondary objects of the ruin, overhung with ivy, and denied the direct
light of the sun, retired in a low tint; but at the left extremity of the
picture, the craggy and advancing citadel caught some of the strongest
lights and shades, forming an admirable bit of foreground to the piece.
Although I am of opinion, that by a morning light this subject is seen by
far to the greatest advantage, yet treated with an afternoon effect, by
the judicious pencil of Sir Richard Hoare, it has formed a charming
picture. This View the engraver has ably transmitted to the publick in
Mr. Coxe's Survey of Monmouthshire.
Delighted with this first view, we traversed the porch defended by two
portcullisses, and entered the principal court of the castle. The
interior wore the same style of magnificence that we so much admired
without. In superior grandeur projected the great window of the hall,
majestically canopied with ivy; a variegated verdure covered the
once-paved area, and climbed the lofty sides of the ruin. In some places
the fondling ivy ran through the forsaken chambers, and embowered the
apertures of the windows; while in many shadowy recesses, where the early
sun had not penetrated, the dewy spangles of morning still decorated the
dwarfy ash, or tremulously bedecked the waving thistle. So admirably
were the different parts disposed, so picturesquely relieved, that the
whole seemed rather a fairy creation, than the fortuitous combination of
undirected nature.
After enjoying these general effects, we proceeded to examine the
apartments of the castle. These do not in any part seem of very remote
erection, but appear to have been constructed at different periods
between the ages of Henry the Fifth and Elizabeth; yet, though a disunion
of style be visible to the Antiquary, no discordance of effect arises in
any instance. Of the first court, the principal entrance, and a range of
once elegant rooms, occupy the south side; the baronial hall, and some
other noble apartments, fill up the western part of the court; the
culinary and other domestic offices, with the servants habitations,
appear to have occupied the north and east sides: at the angle of their
junction, a pentagonal tower contained the kitchen, and a small
projection on the past side was the oven. A broken flight of steps
afforded us the means of ascent to the superior apartments, where we
admired the works of our fore-fathers in some lightly-ornamented
chimney-pieces and Gothic mouldings. The baronial hall has suffered less
from time than from the pilfering attempts of the neighbourhood: some
traces of its former grandeur may be seen in its stately dimensions; a
prodigious fire-place; and a few remnants of ornament, including the
stone-sculptured arms of the Marquis of Worcester, at one end of the
hall: this place, once the scene of banqueting and splendour, is now used
as a fives-court. Here a fresh instance might be collected of the
fleeting state of sublunary greatness; but so many have been brought
forward by the great geniusses of all ages, while every little one feels
the truth without benefiting by the knowledge, that we will not stop to
enlarge on so hopeless a subject; but proceed, where barons bold have
often trod, through the western portal of the hall to the chapel. Few
vestiges remain of this structure; but some of its springing arches,
rising from grotesque heads, are imperfectly visible; and two
whole-length figures, coarsely executed, appear through the thick-woven
ivy. From this place we entered the area of the second court, once
adorned with a marble fountain and an equestrian statue; but now planted
with fruit-trees: this court is surrounded by a range of secondary yet
capital apartments.
The subterraneous appendages of the castle are uncommonly extensive,
according with the great plan of the building; eastward of which is the
grange and out-houses, now converted into a farming habitation.--Raglan
Castle was one of the latest that held out for the royal cause against
Cromwell; and the intrenchments raised for its defence, and against it,
may be readily traced in the adjoining fields. {219}
Returning from this interesting ruin, we passed Raglan church, a small
Gothic building, containing a few mutilated monuments of the Beaufort and
Worcester families; and proceeded on the turnpike-road to Chepstow.
Our route soon took a long and laborious ascent, from the summit of which
we obtained an extensive view over the middle parts of Monmouthshire, an
undulating tract of uncommon fertility and high cultivation. The line of
distant mountains that we admired in the approach to Usk, here appeared
strongly diversified and singularly picturesque, with the continuous
ridge of the Black mountains to the west. Another considerable height
about three miles further commanded a similar view; from which a short
ride led us to the summit of the DEVAUDON; a remarkable elevation, whence
a prodigious view is ordinarily obtained, not only over the country
northward, but in the opposite direction, over the Bristol channel and
its opposing shores. A severe shower, however, obliged us to relinquish
this view, and seek shelter beneath the boughs of Chepstow park, as we
branched off on the turnpike towards Caerwent.
Upon the storm abating, we wound down the Devaudon, and descended into an
agreeable valley, whose opposite hills were clothed with wild
forest-trees: the decayed town of Share Newton occupied the summit of a
high hill bordering the vale in the direction of our route. We passed
through this town (a mere collection of cottages), and about half way
towards the village of Crick turned off the road to visit Wrunston, an
ecclesiastical ruin concealed in a sequestered thicket. The picturesque
remnant of a small chapel is the only part standing; but extensive
foundations and broad causeways declare the place to have been once
considerable.--From Crick, a genteel village, we proceeded over an old
Roman causeway {222} to Caerwent, the Venta Silurum of the Romans.
CAERWENT occupies a gently-inclining plane in a low situation. A few
small dwellings mark the site of the ancient town; the fortifications of
which form an oblong paralellogram, whose width is equal to two-ninths of
its length, with the corners a little rounded; a frequent figure in Roman
military works, called _Terriata castra_. The corners of the walls
nearly correspond with the four cardinal points. On the south-west side
are three pentagonal bastions; from which circumstance some authors have
conjectured the erection of the town to have taken place under the lower
empire, as flanking projections were not in use before that period; but
it is justly supposed to be equally probable, that they were added after
the general embattlement. The circuit of the rampart, near a mile in
extent, may still be traced, in most places surrounded by a deep moat;
the wall is constructed of grout-work faced with squared lime-stone; but
the facings have been for the most part removed for private uses. From
the present ruinous state of the walls, we cannot speak with certainty of
their former height; but it appears to have varied considerably; perhaps
eighteen feet may be a good medium: they are about twelve feet in
thickness at their base, and nine at top. A fragment of the wall, nearly
twenty feet in length and twelve high, has fallen near the southern
angle; and, although the ponderous ruin revolved in its fall, the mass
remains unshattered and impenetrable. Such is the boundary of a spot
once crowded with palaces and temples: at present, the church and
parsonage, a farm-house, a public-house, and a few scattered cottages,
chiefly built with squared stones of the Roman town, are the only
buildings on the area, which is generally laid out in fields and
orchards. But ancient foundations, projecting above the level, and
concealed under green hillocks, rise in many places; and elegant columns,
tesselated pavements, and coins, are continually met with in ploughing
and digging.
We saw a tesselated or mosaic pavement, that was formerly much admired,
in an orchard behind the farm-house; which is thus described by Mr.
Wyndham in his tour, performed between thirty and forty years since: "The
pavement is in length twenty-one feet six inches, and in breadth eighteen
feet. A border, edged with the Greek scroll and fret, surrounds the
whole; but on the north side, the border, being upwards of three feet, is
much broader than the other side. This was designed in order to reduce
the circles within a square. These circles are about three feet in
diameter, and are encircled with a variety of elegant ornaments, and
separated from each other by regular and equal distances. I think there
are thirteen of these circles. The pieces of which the pavement is
composed are nearly square, the breadth of them being about the size of a
common die. These are of various colours, blue, white, yellow, and red;
the first and second are of stone, and the yellow and red are of terra
cotta. By a judicious mixture of these colours, the whole pattern is as
strongly described as it would have been in oil colours. The original
level is perfectly preserved; and the whole composition is so elegant and
well executed, that I think it has not been surpassed by any mosaic
pavement that has been discovered on this, or even on the other side of
the Alps. In my opinion, it is equal to those beautiful pavements which
are preserved in the palace of the king of Naples at Portice. I am
strongly inclined to think that it is of the same age of Agricola." On
this pavement being discovered, a building was erected to shelter it from
the weather, by order of the proprietor, Mr. Lewis, of St. Pierre; but
the brewhouse wanted a roof, and this, being found of similar dimensions,
was transferred to the brewhouse; the farmer holding his ale in much
greater veneration than relics of antiquity. In consequence of neglect,
this curiosity is no longer an object of beauty; exposed to the weather,
the surface became broken up; every one being allowed to take away as
many of the _tesserae_ as he pleased; but a small portion remains; and
that is so overgrown with grass as to be with difficulty distinguished.
In this orchard, and near the southern extremity of the wall, is a mound,
which is most probably the site of the exploratory, or watch-tower.