Having satisfied ourselves with the peninsula of Gower, we entered upon a
zigzag excursion, round the coast of South-Wales, to its northern
boundary, purposing to return to Swansea by a midland route. My friend
had bought an excellent travelling horse, though aged, and a little
foundered, for twelve pounds. I was not so fortunate; the few others
that we met with for sale, were miserable poneys, and at a price double
their value in London: I was, therefore, constrained to engage a poor
little hack, at two guineas for a fortnight's use; and thus mounted we
set forward over a high romantic district to Loughor, the Leucarium of
Antoninus, now a poor village; but still exhibiting the ruined keep of
its castle, on a raised mount surrounded by a moat. From this place,
soiled with the filth of neighbouring collieries, we had a river to ford
to the opposite shore. This task is by no means enviable; for, in
addition to fording a rapid current over a rough stoney bottom, large
hollows are formed by vessels at low water, which, not appearing,
sometimes entrap the unsuspecting traveller, who may think himself well
off if he escape with only a ducking: we thanked our stars when we got
across; and, wading through a miserable road, and a region of collieries,
arrived at LLANELLY (pronounced Llanithly). About half way between the
ford and this town, we observed Capel Ddewy, a small ruin, picturesquely
accompanied by a yew-tree; and near it the remains of some deserted
furnaces.
In this ride we proceeded at an uncertainty, till we were fortunately
assisted by an agreeable matron, who was churning at the door of her
cottage. Now, as the noise of her employment prevented our hearing each
other, she was obliged to leave off; but, that the interval of a few
moments from labour might not pass unproductively, she caught up her
knitting needles at the same instant, and advanced the fabric of a
stocking while she gave us our directions. Such instances of persevering
industry were frequent throughout the principality; but more particularly
so from hence westward, where not a female was to be seen unemployed in
knitting, however she might be otherwise at work, in carrying loads or
driving cattle.
Llanelly is a small irregular town, and contains an old seat of Sir John
Stepney's, which, though deserted by the family, afforded habitation to
numerous tenants, till the mischievous operation of the window-tax, in
driving them out, left it to moulder in decay. The high square embattled
tower of its church is remarkable, in being much wider at the base than
upwards, forming a sort of cone. This town, however, offering no objects
to detain us, we proceeded without halting, and in a few miles ride
gained the summit of Pembree hill.
Here a marine view of great extent burst upon us; the grand sweep of
Caermarthen bay appeared beneath, terminated on one side by Wormshead
point, and on the other by the insulated rock of Caldy in Pembrokeshire;
the opposite shores of Somerset and Devon formed the distance, faintly
skirting the horizon beyond a vast expanse of sea, studded with numerous
vessels. Looking internally, the country exhibited a strong undulatory
surface, variously chequered with wild heaths and rich cultivation.
Descending the hill, we approached the neat regular-built town of new
KIDWELLY, situated in a narrow well-wooded valley.
[Picture: Kidwelly Castle]
The castle forms a noble object, adjoining the ruins of old Kidwelly on
the opposite bank of the river. Leland says, "the old town is prettily
waullid, and hath hard by the waul a Castel; the old town is nearly al
desolated but the cartel is meately well kept up." This description
applies very well to the present appearance of the place; for, though the
castle is uninhabited, it continues tolerably entire. This fortress was
built soon after the Conquest, by Maurice de Londres, one of the twelve
Norman knights who conquered Glamorganshire; and, after undergoing the
usual vicissitudes of sieges, partial demolition, and different masters,
fell to the crown of England. We were disappointed of an internal
examination of this fine ruin, as the key of the entrance could not
readily be obtained, and we were pressed for time to reach Caermarthen
before dark. The continuance of our route led us on a steep woody bank,
above the romantic course of Kidwelly river; but it soon deviated to the
superior attractions of the Towey; following whose expansive water and
verdant accompaniments, and crossing a long antique bridge, we reached
Caermarthen.