Transcriber's Note:
Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as
possible, including some inconsistencies in hyphenation. Some
changes of spelling and punctuation have been made. They are
listed at the end of the text.
Italic text has been marked with _underscores_.
THE PYROTECHNIST'S TREASURY.
"The Secret Out Series."
Crown 8vo, cloth extra, profusely Illustrated, price 4_s._ 6_d._ each.
Art of Amusing. A Collection of Graceful Arts, Games, Tricks,
Puzzles, and Charades, intended to amuse everybody. By FRANK
BELLEW. With nearly 300 Illustrations.
Hanky-Panky. A Wonderful Book of Very Easy Tricks, Very Difficult
Tricks, White Magic, Sleight of Hand; in fact, all those startling
Deceptions which the Great Wizards call "Hanky-Panky." Edited by W.
H. CREMER. With nearly 200 Illustrations.
Magician's Own Book. Ample Instructions for Performances with Cups
and Balls, Eggs, Hats, Handkerchiefs, &c. All from actual
experience. Edited by W. H. CREMER. With 200 Illustrations.
Magic No Mystery: Tricks with Cards, Dice, Balls, &c., with fully
descriptive working directions; How to train Performing Animals;
the art of Secret Writing, &c. Numerous Illustrations.
Merry Circle (The), and How the Visitors were Entertained during
Twelve Pleasant Evenings. A Book of New Intellectual Games and
Amusements. Edited by Mrs. CLARA BELLEW. With numerous
Illustrations.
Secret Out; or, One Thousand Tricks with Cards, and other
Recreations; with Entertaining Experiments in Drawing Room or
"White Magic." Edited by W. H. CREMER. With 300 Engravings.
⁂ _The above Series of Books contain Explanations of all the
most startling feats of legerdemain performed by the celebrated
Prestidigitateurs, Robert Houdin, Frikell, Dr. Lynn, Professor Anderson,
and others._
CHATTO & WINDUS, Piccadilly, W.
THE PYROTECHNIST'S TREASURY;
OR,
_COMPLETE ART OF MAKING FIREWORKS._
BY
THOMAS KENTISH.
[Illustration]
Flammas Jovis, et sonitus imitatur Olympi.
VIRGIL, Æn. vi. 586.
London: CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY. 1878.
[_All rights reserved._]
LONDON:
PRINTED BY J. OGDEN AND CO.,
172, ST. JOHN STREET, E.C.
PREFACE.
Until within the last few years there was scarcely any work in English,
that I am aware of, on the subject of Pyrotechny, worth reading, with
the exception of an Article in "Brewster's Cyclopædia," by MacCulloch;
and this, besides being accessible to only a few, having been published
in 1830, made no mention of colours, which form the most beautiful part
of the art.
In the first year of the present century a treatise was written by a
Captain Jones, which has been copied, in whole or in part, into almost
every work since published. The greater portion of it is absurd and
impracticable, and shows that it was written by a person who undertook
to teach what he had not learnt.
The first work of any real utility that came under my notice was a
series of papers by "Practicus." This was soon followed by another,
varied by the new chemical nomenclature.
The subject is far from being treated exhaustively in either of these
works, so that I trust the reader will find in the following pages a
fund of information, both in the repertory of recipes and the methods of
manipulation.
To Chertier belongs the great improvement in colours. He was, as I was
informed by the late Mr. Southby, who knew him personally, and who
derived much information from him while in Paris, a retired French
Artillery Officer, who made colours "his study and theme." His "New
Researches," published in 1856, nearly thirty years after his first
pamphlet, is an excellent work, that leaves little to be desired in the
way of colours. Gunpowder attracted but little of his attention.
Tessier, of Paris, has written, since, his "Pyrotechnic Chemistry," and
a new edition of the "Firework-Maker," by Hutstein and Websky, was
published three or four years ago at Breslau.
I have neglected none of these sources of information, but do not know
that I have been able to learn much from them with which I was not
previously acquainted.
Gibbon's "Artillerist's Manual," and Benton's "Ordnance and Gunnery,"
published at New York, have furnished me with a hint or two; also Owen's
"Practice of Modern Artillery," Scoffern's "Projectile Weapons of War,"
and his "New Resources of Warfare;" but as all these works are on
Military Pyrotechny, they have not been available to any great extent. I
mention their names, that anyone desirous of a knowledge of Rockets and
Shells, as instruments of destruction, may know the books from which to
gain the information.
It is possible that, as Chemistry advances, a few new substances may be
discovered; meanwhile, nearly every shade of colour may already be
produced.
The extensive use of these colours, from their beauty and variety, for
stars and lancework, has very materially altered the class of fireworks,
and necessitates the employment of an enormous quantity of quick-match.
The preparation of this is one of the most disagreeable parts of
Pyrotechny, besides demanding a great amount of manipulative skill. Most
amateurs are deterred from attempting to manufacture it, and so have to
content themselves with only the simplest pieces.
I have, therefore, set myself sedulously to work to devise a different
plan of preparing it; and have succeeded--not till after many years,
however, and numerous failures, simple as it now seems--in discovering a
process of producing a splendid and perfect match, that leaves nothing
to be desired; which is easy and expeditious, and does not even soil the
hands. Amateurs will now find no trouble in making any pieces they may
desire.
Dangerous chemicals, that might produce spontaneous combustion, have
been rigidly excluded; the fullest information throughout has been
furnished for preparing the mixtures with safety; the mode of projecting
balloons, and the manner of constructing steelyard scales, and every
kind of tool used in the art, has been added; and no pains have been
spared to make the work as complete and comprehensive as possible.
In conclusion, I may say that I have had thirty-five years' experience;
and there is nothing I have not tried repeatedly: the reader may,
therefore, place the greatest confidence in everything recommended. He
has only to imitate to succeed.
T. K.
_CONTENTS._
PAGE
ROMAN CANDLES:
To Make a 5/8 Roman Candle 1
To Make a Roman Candle Star 5
To Damp Stars 7
To Make Lac Solution 9
To Make Wax Solution 10
To Make Stearine Solution 10
To Make Gum Solution 11
To Make Dextrine Solution 11
To Make Paste 13
Roman Candle Scoops 15
To Charge Roman Candle Cases 19
To Make Touchpaper 23
To Make Slowmatch 24
To Make Quickmatch 24
A New Method 26
ROCKETS:
To Make a 6/8 Rocket 34
To Charge Rocket Cases 39
Rocket Stars 53
To Make Cut Stars 54
Dry Pill-box Stars 54
To Fill the Boxes with Dry Colour 56
Another Way 56
Bottomless Pill-boxes 57
Enveloped Stars 58
Rocket Heads 59
WHEEL AND FIXED CASES 66
GERBES 69
FLOWER POTS 72
PORT FIRES AND SHELL FUSES 73
TOURBILLIONS:
To Make a Tourbillion 75
SAXONS 81
FIVE POINTED STARS 83
SQUIBS 84
SERPENTS 90
PINWHEELS 91
CRACKERS:
To Make a Cracker 98
Leader Pipes 103
MAROONS:
To Make a Maroon 105
Another Method 106
GOLD AND SILVER RAINS 107
PEACOCK'S PLUMES 108
SAUCISSONS 109
PEARL STREAMERS 111
BLUE LIGHTS AND STAR CANDLES, OR STAR LIGHTS 111
PRINCE OF WALES' FEATHERS 112
LANCES:
To Make a Lance 112
To Form a Device, or Design 115
To Preserve Steel Filings, or Cast-iron Borings 116
SHELLS:
To Make the Shells 119
CYLINDRICAL SHELLS 125
ASTEROID ROCKETS 131
COMPOUND FIREWORKS: 135
To Fire a Girandole of 100 Rockets at once 153
TOOLS 154
TO CONSTRUCT A STEELYARD SCALE 155
MONTGOLFIER BALLOONS:
To Cut the Gores 161
To Join the Halves Together 161
To Paste Two Gores Together 161
To Paste the Pairs Together 162
To Make the Last Joining 162
To Wire the Balloon 163
WINGED ROCKETS:
To Make Winged Rockets 168
To Construct a Slot-Tube, or Rocket-Guide 170
LIST OF PRICES 172
CONCLUDING REMARKS 173
FUSES:
Roman Candle 185
Rocket 185
Bursting Fire 185
Starting Fire 185
Wheel and Fixed Case 186
Squib and Serpent 186
Pinwheel 186
Saxon 187
Five-Pointed Star 187
Spur-Fire, for Flower-Pots and Star-Candles 187
Tourbillion 187
Bengal Light 188
Blue Light 188
Wasp Light 188
Portfire 188
Shell Fuse 188
Gerbe 188
Tailed, Streamer, or Comet Stars, for Rockets, Shells,
and Roman Candles 189
Oiled Tailed Stars for Rockets and Shells 189
Steel Stars for Rockets and Shells 190
Pearl Streamer 190
Gold Rain 190
Silver Rain 191
White or Bright Stars and Lances 191
Sugar Blues for Stars and Lances 191
Blue Stars and Lances without Sugar 192
Crimson and Scarlet Stars and Lances 193
Green or Emerald Stars and Lances 194
Deep and Pale Yellow Stars and Lances 195
Mauve and Lilac Stars and Lances 196
Purple and Violet Stars and Lances 196
Magnesium Colours for Stars and Lances 197
Slow Fires, to be Heaped upon a Tile in the shape
of a Cone, and Lit at the Top 197
THE PYROTECHNIST'S TREASURY.
_ROMAN CANDLES._
TO MAKE A 5/8 ROMAN CANDLE.
Procure a straight piece of brass tube, 6/8 of an inch external
diameter, and 16-1/2 inches long. Saw or file off a piece, 1-1/2 inch
long, fig. 1. This is for the star former, and is drawn of the correct
size.
In the other piece, of 15 inches, fix a handle, as shown, in diminutive,
in fig. 7. This is for the case former. It should be filed smooth at the
end.
Take another piece of brass tube (4-1/2)/8 or 9/16 of an inch external
diameter, and about 16-1/2 inches long. In this also fix a handle, or
fix it into a handle, fig. 4. Invert it, and set it upright in a
flower-pot, filled with sand or loose mould. Melt some lead in a ladle,
and pour it slowly into the tube, leaving room for the air to escape up
the side, till it is full. If the lead is poured in rapidly, the
confined air, expanding, jerks the metal up, and may cause serious
injury. A pound or more of lead will be required. When cold, drive the
end of the lead in with a hammer, and file it smooth. This is for a
rammer.
Take a piece of deal, fig. 6, about 12 inches long, 6 broad, and 3/4
thick; and, on the top, screw a handle, like one on a copper-lid, or
black-lead brush. This is for a rolling-board. An iron door-handle would
serve, and may be obtained at any ironmonger's, for about 2_d._ or 3_d._
A wooden one, however, about an inch thick, not cylindrical, but
slightly flat, and rounded at the edges, is preferable, as it gives more
purchase for the hand.
Cut a piece of tin, or zinc, or thin board, into the shape of fig. 8, in
which the distance between the arms a and b, across the dotted line,
shall be 7/8 of an inch. This is for a gauge, with which to measure the
external diameter of the case. Write upon it, "7/8 space."
Procure some 60 lb., 70 lb., or 84 lb. imperial brown paper: the size of
a sheet will be 29 inches by 22-1/2. Cut a sheet into 4 equal parts,
each 14-1/2 by 11-1/4: paste the 4 pieces on one side, and lay them one
on another, with the pasted face upwards, putting the fourth piece with
the pasted side downwards, upon the pasted side of the third piece. Turn
them over: take off the now top piece, and lay it flat on the near edge
of a table, pasted side upwards. Take the former, fig. 7, and paste the
tube all over. Lay it along the edge of the paper, bend the paper over
with the fingers of both hands, and roll it tightly up, until the
external diameter of the case about fits the gauge, fig. 8. If the paper
should be too long, of course a piece must be cut off; if it should not
be long enough, more must be added, taking care to bind in the second
piece with 3 or 4 inches of the first piece; for if the whole of the
first piece be rolled up before beginning the second, the latter, when
dry, will probably slip off, and spoil the case. The case having been
rolled up, take the handle of the former in the left hand, lay the case
flat on the near side of the table, take the rolling-board, fig. 6, in
the right hand, press the front part of it on the case, and drive it
forwards 5 or 6 times, like a jack-plane, letting the handle of the
former slip round in the left hand. This will tighten the case, and
render it, when dry, as hard as a book-cover.
The former must always be pasted, before rolling a case, to prevent its
sticking. It should, likewise, be wiped clean with a damp sponge, before
being laid aside. Brass tubes keep clean a much longer time if
lacquered. To lacquer them, clean them with very fine glass-paper; make
them hot by the fire, till you can just bear them on the back of the
hand; then, with a camel's-hair pencil, wash them over with thin lac
solution. The cases may be either 14-1/2 or 11-1/4 inches long; but
11-1/4 is the best, for when the cases are too long, the fuse, as it
approaches the bottom, is apt, if slow, to smoke; if fierce, to set the
top of the case in a flame. If the learner decides upon 11-1/4 inches,
the former and rammer may each be 2 or 3 inches shorter.
After the first case has been rolled up to fit the gauge, it may be
unrolled, and the paper measured. Future pieces of the same quire of
paper can then be cut of the right size at once, so that the case will
fit the gauge without further trouble.
A large slab of slate is convenient for rolling upon; but a smoothly
planed board will answer every purpose.
When a number of cases are finished, hitch a piece of flax two or three
times round each of them, and hang them up to dry, in a place free from
draught, that they may not warp.
Flax is sold in balls; the thick yellow, at 2_d._, is the best. It is
named, indifferently, flax, or hemp. It is much used by shoe-makers; and
is sold at the grindery, or leather shops. Two or three thicknesses of
this, waxed, or drawn through the hand with a little paste, is very
convenient for passing round the necks of small choked cases, tying
cases on wheels, &c.
TO MAKE A ROMAN CANDLE STAR.
Take the former, fig. 1, which, as said before, is 1-1/2 inch long; have
a cylindrical piece of turned wood, box, beech, or mahogany, fig. 2,
about 2 inches long, and of a diameter to just fit easily into fig. 1.
At a point a, at the distance of about 7/8 of an inch from the end d,
with a bradawl, or very small gimlet, or nosebit, make a hole, and drive
in a piece of brass wire, to project just so much as to prevent the
tube slipping over it. A piece of a brass rivet, such as used by
shoe-makers, is convenient for the purpose. The part with the head on
is best; a quarter of an inch length will be sufficient, filed or cut
off with the nippers. It is evident that upon inserting fig. 2 into the
tube fig. 1, a vacant space of 5/8 of an inch will be left at the
bottom. Fig. 3 is a piece of turned wood, or, better still, of turned
brass, exactly like fig. 2 without the side-pin a. Now to pump a star,
insert fig. 2 in fig. 1; press the tube into damped composition, turn it
round, and withdraw it. Rest the tube on a flat surface, insert fig. 3,
and give it two or three taps with a small mallet, like fig. 26. A
convenient size for the mallet is 1-1/2 inch square, 3 inches long, with
a turned handle. The mallet is best made of beech or mahogany. The
slight malleting consolidates the star, and prevents it from getting
broken in charging; it will compress it to about (4-1/2)/8 or 9/16 of an
inch in height. Push it out and set it by to dry.
Stars are best made in summer, and dried in the sunshine; when dry they
should be put into clean pickle-bottles, furnished with tight-fitting
bungs. A piece of wash-leather passed over the bottom of the bung,
gathered up round the sides, and tied at the top like a choke, makes a
good stopper. Shot, shaken up in bottles, with water, soon cleans them.
TO DAMP STARS.
Stars containing nitrate of strontian must be damped, either with lac
solution, or wax solution; anything containing water destroys the
colour. Nitre stars may be damped with gum water, dextrine solution, or
thin starch. Most other stars with either of the solutions. Crimsons and
greens _will_ mix with boiled linseed oil, but they cannot then be
matched, as oil renders meal-powder almost uninflammable. With all
stars, not a drop more of the solution should be used than is sufficient
to make the composition bind; and it is advisable not to damp more than
half an ounce at a time; this is particularly the case in using the lac
solution, as it dries rapidly; and if a large quantity of composition is
damped, and gets dry, and has to be damped over and over again, it
becomes clogged with the shellac, and the colour is deteriorated. If it
should get dry, and require a second damping, it is best to use pure
spirit only, the second time.
Before mixing compositions, every article should be as fine as wheaten
flour, and perfectly dry. Nitrate of strontian, if purchased in the
lump, should be set over the fire, in a pipkin; it will soon begin to
boil in its water of crystallization; it must be kept stirred with a
piece of wood, till the water is evaporated, and a fine dry powder left.
A pound of crystals will yield about 11 ounces of dry powder, which
should be immediately bottled. Even then, if used in damp weather, it is
best dried again, and mixed with the other ingredients while warm. This
second drying may be in a 6-inch circular frying-pan.
Articles, separately, may be reduced to powder, with the pestle, in a
mortar. See that it is wiped clean every time, as there is danger of
ignition with chlorates and sulphurets. When the articles are to be
mixed, they may be put into the mortar, and stirred together with a
small sash-tool. A 3/8 inch is a convenient size. The mixture must then
be put into a sieve, and shaken in the usual way; or it may be brushed
through with the sash-tool. Return it to the sieve, and brush or shake
through again. As it lies in a heap, level or smooth it with the blade
of a table knife, or any straight-edge; if thoroughly mixed it will
present a uniform colour; if it appears darker in one part than in
another, it must be sifted again. A sieve with a top and receiver is
very desirable, as nearly all mixtures are either black or poisonous;
the dust from star mixtures is very injurious to the lungs. If a top and
receiver cannot be readily purchased, both may easily be constructed out
of a sheet of millboard, fastened with a bradawl and waxed yellow flax,
and neatly covered with paper.
Mixtures may be damped on a Dutch-tile, a marble slab, or a slate
without a frame. They may be stirred about with a dessert knife, pressed
flat, and chopped, or minced as it were, and again pressed flat.
TO MAKE LAC SOLUTION.
Put 1/2 an ounce of flake shellac into a tin pot, and pour upon it a
quarter of a pint, or 5 ounces of methylated spirit; or, preferably, a
like quantity of wood naphtha. Let it stand for about a day, stirring
it occasionally till dissolved. Then half fill a basin with boiling
water; set the tin containing the lac, in it, and leave it till it boils
and curdles. If the water does not remain hot long enough to make it
boil, set it in a second basin of boiling water. As soon as it has
curdled, remove it; and when cold, pour it into a vial, and cork it.
Spirit must never be boiled over a fire, nor near one, as the vapour
might inflame. Keep the pot, therefore, while in the hot water, at a
distance from a fire, or flame of a lamp or candle.
TO MAKE WAX SOLUTION.
Put into a vial 1/2 an ounce of white wax, (bleached bees' wax), pour
upon it 5 ounces of mineral naphtha, (coal or gas tar naphtha), keep it
tightly corked.
TO MAKE STEARINE SOLUTION.
Dissolve a piece of composite candle in mineral naphtha, in the same
way. Mineral naphtha must not be used near a candle or fire, as it gives
off an inflammable vapour, at less than 100° Fahrenheit.
TO MAKE GUM SOLUTION.
There is no better way of preparing this than simply to put cold water
upon gum arabic, and let it stand till dissolved. If for sticking
purposes, as much water as will just cover the gum will be sufficient;
but, for making quickmatch, 1 ounce or 1-1/4 ounce of gum to a pint of
water. If required in a hurry, put the gum into _cold_ water, in a
pipkin, or tin saucepan, set it on the fire, make it boil, and keep
stirring till dissolved. When cold, bottle, and cork it.
TO MAKE DEXTRINE SOLUTION.
Take half an ounce of dextrine, and 5 ounces, or a quarter of a pint of
cold water, put the dextrine into a cup or basin, add a little of the
water, and mix it well with a teaspoon, rubbing it till all is
dissolved; then add the remainder of the water, stir well together a
second time, pour it into a vial, and cork for use. Dextrine, wetted to
the consistency of honey, may be used instead of thick gum-arabic water,
for pasting. For this purpose it is advisable to keep either in a
wide-mouthed bottle, and to set the bottle in a gallipot containing a
little water; the brush, a camel's-hair pencil, or very small sash-tool
with 1/3 of the bristles cut away on each side, to render it flat, can
then be kept in the water, when not in use; this will prevent it, on the
one hand, from becoming dry and hard; and, on the other, from getting
clogged and swollen. It can be squeezed between the thumb and fingers,
when wanted for use. The flat gum brushes now sold, bound with tin, are
not pleasant to use, as the tin oxidises, and turns of a disagreeable
brown colour. If there is a difficulty in obtaining a graduated water
measure, one sufficiently correct for pyrotechnic purposes may be made
with a vial. Paste a narrow strip of paper up the outside of the vial,
weigh 4 ounces of water in a cup, in the scales: pour it into the vial,
mark the height, and divide it into 4 equal parts, for ounces; of
course, it can be graduated into half and quarter ounces, and increased,
if large enough, to 5 or more ounces. A gallon of distilled water weighs
exactly 10 pounds. Consequently, a pint of pure water weighs a pound
and a quarter. This is also near enough for spirit, though, of course,
spirit is a trifle lighter. Doctors' vials are often marked with ounce
divisions.
TO MAKE PASTE.
Paste is most economically made in a zinc pot, which may be 4 inches
deep, and 3-1/2 inches diameter. Any zinc worker will make one to order
for about 6_d._ Put into it 2 ounces of wheaten flour, add a little cold
water, rub the two together with a spoon till smooth and free from
lumps; pour in more water till the pot is full within about an inch; set
the pot in half a saucepanful of water, put it on the fire; make the
water boil, and keep it and the paste boiling for 4 or 5 minutes,
stirring the paste the while. Remove it from the fire, and set it by to
cool. The paste is to remain in the zinc pot, in which it will keep good
for a length of time, and beautifully white.
Some recommend alum in paste, I think it best avoided, especially in
cases intended to receive coloured fires. Alum is a double salt, a
sulphate of alumina and potassa; it has an acid reaction; and, coming
in contact with chlorate of potash and sulphur, may cause spontaneous
combustion. A drop of sulphuric acid instantly ignites stars containing
them. At theatres, the clown sometimes fires a cannon, with what appears
to be a red hot poker; but which, in reality, is only a piece of wood,
painted red. A mixture is made of chlorate of potash and sulphur, or
sugar, a glass bead is filled with sulphuric acid, and the hole stopped
up with wax. This is laid in the mixture, and when it is struck with the
poker, the liquid escapes, and inflames the potash and sulphur. Sulphate
of copper is a particularly dangerous salt, and must never be used, as
it is almost certain to cause spontaneous combustion. Chertier, to whom
pyrotechny otherwise owes so much, introduced an empirical preparation,
by dissolving sulphate of copper in water, together with chlorate of
potash, drying it, and wetting it with ammonia: but this, however dried,
when again wetted, turns litmus paper red. Practicus has named it
Chertier's copper. I discommend its use.
Two paste brushes will be sufficient for an amateur, sash-tools, one
about an inch diameter, the other smaller for light purposes. Let them
stand in the paste. If they get dry, the bristles fall out. For
convenience, one may be kept in the paste, and one in water.
Dry clay, powdered and sifted as fine as possible, is used for plugging,
or stopping up the bottoms of cases. I have, for some time, discontinued
its use, and employ plaster of paris in preference. Directions will be
given for each, so that the learner can adopt which he pleases: but
plaster is infinitely preferable. It is an American improvement.
ROMAN CANDLE SCOOPS.
No species of fireworks require greater care in their construction than
roman candles. In the first place the stars must be fierce, that they
may light thoroughly: next, they must not be driven out with too great
velocity. For this purpose the blowing-powder must be carefully
adjusted. The stars, also, must be of so easy a fit that when put into
the case they may fall to the proper depth of their own accord. If they
require pushing, they are too tight, and will probably be blown out
blind. When made as directed they will, necessarily, be of an easy fit,
as they will be of the inner diameter of the brass tube, while the bore
of the case is equal to its external diameter.
To regulate the blowing powder, prepare a number of little scoops, like
fig. 5, which is about the right size for the bottom star. They are
formed of pieces of tin, zinc, or copper. Cut a long strip of tin, 1/2
an inch broad; cut this across into 7 pieces, of the following lengths,
1-5/8, 1-6/8, 1-7/8, 2, 2-1/8, 2-3/8 and 4 inches. Round off the
corners. Take a piece of brass wire, or stair-rod, about 1/4 inch
diameter, and with the wooden mallet, before mentioned, fig. 26, bend
each of the pieces round the rod into a half cylinder, or gutter. Take
up the smallest, and hold 5/8 of an inch of the end of the stair-rod in
the end of the semicylinder, to keep it open; put the other part from a
to b, fig. 5, in a vice, and pinch it up; it will assume the form
represented; the bowl part will be 5/8 long, and the handle 1 inch long.
Make the bowl of the next scoop 6/8 of an inch long, the next 7/8, and
so on; the handle will always be 1 inch long. The last, for the top
star, will have a bowl of 3 inches. The smallest scoop ought to hold as
much grain powder as will weigh about 1/12 of the star; but to have the
scoops accurate, it will be necessary to charge a roman candle, fire it,
and observe whether the stars go a uniform height. For measuring the
interval fuse, or fuse between the top of one star and the bottom of the
next, a large scoop of the size of fig. 10 will be required. The tin may
be an inch broad, and the bowl part 2-1/2 inches long, bent round the
rammer, fig. 4. To adjust it, take a roman candle case, fit it on the
foot, fig. 9, which is a piece of wood, or brass, turned with a tenon to
fit tight in the bottom of the case. Fill the scoop, and strike it
level, with a straight-edge; empty it into the case, rest the foot on a
flat surface; insert the rammer, fig. 4, and jolt it up and down, a
dozen times, or more, lifting it about 1/2 an inch at a time; put in
another scoopful, and jolt it in like manner. If the 2 scoopfuls, thus
compressed, fill an inch of the case, the scoop will be correct. If more
or less, the scoop must be shortened, or lengthened, accordingly.
A piece of writing-paper may be pasted and wound twice round the handle
of each scoop, as from a to b, fig. 4. One dot can be put upon the
scoop, for the first, or bottom, star; two dots, for the second scoop,
&c., or any memorandum can be written upon them, for future guidance.
Should they get soiled, they may be cleaned with a soaped damp piece of
sponge.
Gunpowder, for fireworks, is used in two forms; meal-powder, and
grain-powder. Meal-powder is a fine black dust, and is employed in all
cases of mixing. Grain-powder is of three kinds, F, FF, and FFF, fine,
double fine, and treble fine. FFF is best for crackers, simply because
it runs rapidly down the pipes: for driving stars, shells, &c., F will
be sufficient; but FFF may be employed: FF need not be purchased. All
kinds of powder may be obtained of Pinnell, 214, Whitechapel Road. If,
in any place, there should be a difficulty in obtaining meal-powder, F
grain-powder may be crushed in a leather bag, by laying the bag on a
hard surface, and beating it with a hammer. The leather should be of the
same kind as shoes are made of.
TO CHARGE ROMAN CANDLE CASES.
Pour some F grain-powder into a wooden bowl, or platter, represented by
fig. 11. Round the edge lay the little blowing-powder scoops, side by
side, beginning with the smallest at a, the next at b, and so on to g.
Put some roman candle fuse into a large tin scoop, made to stand on a
flat bottom, like fig. 12, the same, in shape, as used by tea-dealers;
and, on the right-hand of it, lay the charging-fuse scoop, fig. 10. If
the roman candle is to contain different-coloured stars, set seven in a
row, in the order desired. When the cases are intended to be fired in
threes or fours, the stars in one may be all blue, in another crimson,
in another green, in another white. Fit the foot, fig. 9, in the bottom
of the case, put in a scoopful of clay, insert the rammer, fig. 4, and
jolt it till the clay is well compressed. The clay should fill 1/2 an
inch. This being done, invert it, and shake out any little dust that may
remain. Put in the little scoopful a, of F grain-powder; then lay the
scoop at A. Now put in a star. As previously stated it ought to fall of
its own accord; but make sure that it has reached the blowing-powder,
by putting in the rammer. Having ascertained this, put in a scoop of
fuse, fig. 10; lay the scoop on the left of fig. 12; insert the rammer
and jolt it; put in another scoop of fuse, fig. 10; lay the scoop on the
right of fig. 12; insert the rammer and jolt it, as before. Then proceed
with the scoop b of grain-powder, and lay it at B, and so on, till the
case is filled. The fuse on the top star is best driven in with a short
solid rammer and mallet, as it is difficult to jolt the long rammer in
so small a space. The last 1/8 of an inch, near the mouth of the case,
should be fine meal-powder, as it binds better than the roman-candle
fuse, and also blows off the leader pipe.
The blowing-powder scoops, having been laid at A, B, &c., all that is
required is to turn the bowl or platter, a little round to the left, and
they will come in rotation, ready for the next case. Also, by putting
the scoop, fig. 10, alternately to the left and right of the scoop, fig.
12, it will always be known whether the proper quantity of fuse has been
put in.
Coloured stars, from their fierceness, have a tendency to burn in the
cases. This defect may be remedied by putting upon each star a small
scoopful of Starting Fire, No. 1, before putting in the interval fuse;
as much as will fill round the sides of the star. This composition is
somewhat fiercer than would suit for the regular fuse, so catches the
blowing-powder sooner.
A roman candle is well charged when the stars isochronise, or come out
at equal intervals of time: they should, also, theoretically, ascend to
equal heights; but, with coloured stars, this cannot be perfectly
insured, as some shrink more than others in drying, and, of course, fit
more loosely; some are heavier, some fiercer than others.
The interval fuse must always be driven in at twice, never at once. Each
star, with its blowing-powder and fuse, occupies about an inch and a
half; perhaps a trifle more.
Instead of driving in clay at the bottom, plaster of paris may be used,
and then the foot, fig. 9, will not be required. Have some plaster of
paris in a wide-mouthed bottle; a glass of cold water with a salt-spoon
in it; and a number of pieces of paper, about 4 inches square. Put a
small quantity of the plaster on one of the pieces of paper; indent the
middle with the finger; put to it a little water, and work it up with a
dessert-knife. Just as it gets to the consistency of mortar, and is
about to set, mould it with the fingers, to the shape of a cork; push it
into the end of the case; rest the case on a flat surface; insert the
rammer, and give it two or three slight jolts; turn it round a few
times, and withdraw it. If the plaster sticks to the end of the rammer,
it shows, either that you have used the plaster too wet, or have not
turned the rammer round a sufficient number of times.
No more plaster must be mixed at a time than will suffice for one case.
When plaster has once set, it cannot be mixed up a second time;
therefore take a fresh piece of paper, and let the knife be cleaned
every time. It is advisable to have two dessert-knives, then one can be
used with which to scrape the other. As much plaster should be used as
will fill the case up about 1/2 an inch. They must be set by to dry;
their not requiring the use of the foot will be found a great
convenience.
Roman candles are usually made from 3/8 to 6/8; but 5/8 is a very
satisfactory size. If a roman candle is intended to be fired singly,
twist a piece of touchpaper round the mouth. If the cases are intended
to be fired in threes, fours, &c., to form a bouquet, or to be placed
round a mine, jack-in-the-box, or devil-among-the-tailors, omit the
touchpaper, and envelope the case in double crown, made to project an
inch beyond the mouth, to receive the leader, or quickmatch.
A steel-pen inserted, nib backwards, in the end of a small paper tube,
rolled round the end of a penholder, makes a neat little scoop. It may
be fastened in with a little plaster of paris. A scoop may also be made
with a quill.
Cracks in wooden bowls may be stopped with the same material; and, if
painted over with linseed oil, after getting dry, will remain waterproof
for a long time. A screw may be made to hold in brickwork, by drilling a
hole in the brick, and pushing in the screw, covered with plaster.
TO MAKE TOUCHPAPER.
Dissolve 1/2 an ounce of nitre in 1/2 a pint of hot water. Procure some
12 lb. double crown blue; cut each sheet into four equal parts, 15 by
10. Lay them smooth upon each other, and, with a sash-tool dipped into
the nitre solution, wash them over on one side, and hang them up to dry.
TO MAKE SLOWMATCH.
Dissolve 1 dram of nitrate of lead in 1/2 an ounce of boiling water. Cut
a sheet of blotting paper into six equal parts, and wet them on both
sides, with a sash-tool, with the solution. When dry, paste a piece all
over, and upon it smoothly press another piece; upon this, pasted, put a
third piece; and so on, till all the six form a stiff board. Lay
them under a heavy weight; and, when dry, with a sharp knife and
straight-edge, cut the whole into strips 1/4 of an inch broad. Four
inches will burn about a quarter of an hour. Narrow tape, boiled in the
solution, makes excellent slowmatch.
TO MAKE QUICKMATCH.
Put into a pan 1 lb. of grain-powder, or meal-powder; pour upon it some
thin hot starch, and stir it well about, breaking all lumps, till the
mixture is of the consistency of paint. Procure some lamp-cotton, such
as forms the wicks of candles. It will probably consist of sixteen or
twenty-four strands. Divide it carefully into lengths of eight strands.
This is not so easy a task as might appear. The best way is to act the
reverse of a man spinning string. Divide the end of the cotton, say of
sixteen strands, into two of eight each; fasten them to two screw-hooks,
a few inches apart. Take one in each hand, and walk backwards, gently
pulling them apart, and when they catch, untwist them: with care they
will separate without breaking or entangling. Drop the end of one of the
pieces into the pan; and, as it keeps falling, coil it round and round
in the mixture, and press it down with an iron spoon, until as much is
pressed in as the quantity can saturate. Be very particular that it is
thoroughly soaked. Have ready a wooden frame, fig. 13, of deal,
resembling a swing looking-glass, with the glass taken out. It may be 5
feet by 4. The frame is to be supported on pivots between two uprights.
Fix a nail or hook at the left-hand corner of the frame, and tie the
end of the cotton to it which has been hanging outside the pan. Get a
person to slowly turn the frame and hold it steady. Take hold of the
cotton in the right hand, shut the hand, and allow the cotton to slip
gradually and slowly through it, as the frame is turned; squeeze it very
gently, so as to allow it to come out well coated, and contrive to make
it as round as possible. When all the cotton is wound upon the frame,
spread some sheets of paper--old newspapers--on the floor; at each
corner place a brick; lay the four corners of the frame upon the four
bricks; sift dry meal-powder all over the match, turn it over and sift
over the other side. Prop the frame against the wall, and leave it to
dry. One ounce of white starch will be sufficient for a pint and a half
of water. Rub the starch up smooth with a little of the water, then add
the rest, and boil it.
A NEW METHOD.
Put into a gallipot, or basin, some hot starch, made as before directed,
or some cold gum-water, or cold dextrine solution; and with a small
stencil-brush, or a 3/8 sash-tool, cut across the middle to make the
bristles short and stubby, stir in some meal-powder, till it is well
mixed and looks like black paint. To avoid repetition, it will be
convenient to refer to this under the name of Meal-paste. Take two
towel-horses, fig. 14, and set them parallel 5, 10, or 20 feet apart. In
the top rail of each, drive four nails 1/2 an inch asunder. Fix the dry
cotton to the nail a, carry it across to the opposite nail b, pass it
round the second nail c, bring it to the opposite second nail, and so
on, till the cotton lies in four parallel lines, like the strings of a
harp placed horizontally. Hitch the cotton, without cutting it, to the
hook of the weight, fig. 15. This weight is made by taking a piece of
brass tube, 1 inch diameter, and 4 inches long. Stop one end with a
bung, fill it with melted lead; and before it sets push in a lucifer
match, having previously cut off the priming. As soon as the lead is
cold, pull out the match, which having been partially burnt smaller,
will come out easily, and in the hole left by it screw a cup-hook, as
drawn. Invert the weight, pick out the bung, and fill its place with
more melted lead. Now procure two pieces of planed deal board; one 4
inches square, the other 6 inches square. With the left hand hold the
smaller piece close underneath the cotton; and with the sash-tool or
stencil-brush, work the meal-paste _well into the fibres of the
threads_, pressing the cotton on the board till it is thoroughly soaked,
and rolling it over, laterally, to make it as round and smooth as
possible. It is best to begin on the left, and work towards the right.
If the wetting slackens the threads, pull them tight. Now brush some
meal-powder through a fine sieve, to free it from lumps; put a
tablespoonful or two upon the larger board; hold it close under the four
threads, as the other, with the left hand, and move it laterally
forwards and backwards, and down the whole length, at the same time
brushing the meal over the threads, with a soft, dry, sash-tool, till
they are smothered, and giving them an occasional jar to shake off the
superfluous meal. By a little practice they may be made as smooth and as
round as a piece of wire. Leave the weight hanging to them till they are
dry. Instead of four nails on each rail, a dozen may be put; and if the
towel-horses are set 12 yards apart, 144 yards may be soon made. In this
case, three or four heavier weights would be required. These
contrivances, however, are by no means necessary for an amateur; four
hooks or nails opposite four others, anyhow supported, will be
sufficient; and six or eight feet apart is a good distance. A small
quantity may thus be made one day, and a small quantity another; and for
this purpose it is best to use gum-water, as it is always ready, and a
little can be added to the dry left the day before, and a little fresh
meal stirred in. Three or four threads of white darning-cotton, which is
of two twists, make very good match; knitting or crochet cotton, which
is of three twists, produces, alone, excellent match; two or three
pieces of the first, or two of the latter, put into a leader pipe, side
by side, blow through with a violent report. Match may also be made of
the very narrowest white tape, 3/16 of an inch broad; this, from its
flatness, is peculiarly suited for enveloped stars. For general
purposes, however, lamp cotton is decidedly the best, as it is most
loosely twisted, and therefore the most absorbent. If match is liable
to be exposed to damp, it should be cased in thick leaders, and be
prepared with starch; in other respects, nothing can surpass gum-water.
Of course iron pound-weights, with a ring in them, will answer the
purpose, or an iron pestle tied to the cotton, or anything heavy; but
the kind I have advised are most convenient. They will weigh about a
pound and a quarter each. The weight may hang over a chair-back.
Match, to be perfect, ought, when cut across, to look black throughout;
it should, also, be stiff, straight, and round; but, to test it, cut off
about 10 inches; put one end of this into a leader pipe, so that 5
inches will be in the pipe, and 5 out. Hold the end of the leader with a
pair of tongs, or lay it on the ground; light the naked end. If the
match is good it will burn gradually, though swiftly, till it gets to
the pipe; it will then blow through with a bang. The nearer the leader
pipe fits the match the better, only it ought to be large enough to
allow it to go easily in, without force: if laid in a roman candle case
it would hardly puff: the smaller and smaller the tube becomes the
louder and louder the report: the increase of power being in the
inverse ratio of the diminution of space. A train of gunpowder laid in
the open air, or confined in a tube, comports itself in the same way, as
is well known. Match, when dry, should be kept straight; for, if it gets
broken, it acts like a cracker, snapping at every break.
A piece of zinc rainwater pipe, of suitable length, furnished with a
bottom and lid, or a couple of bungs, is convenient for keeping it in;
but a far better contrivance is a deal box, 5 feet long, 3 inches deep,
and 3 broad, made of 1/2-inch pine. The lid of this box can be readily
furnished with three or five hinges, like a piano, only made with string
instead of brass. Take two pieces of string, fig. 57, and tie them in a
knot near the end, as at k. At x, fig. 58, make a bradawl hole through
the back of the box, near the top, and push the strings through it; make
another hole through the lid, put the string through it, and tie in a
knot on the top, as at z: and so with the other four. This will render
the explanation easier to understand; but, practically, a single piece
of thicker string is best, if you can manage to tie the second knot in
the exact spot you wish. The knots must not be too close to each other,
as the lid requires a little play. For safety, the box ought to be
furnished with a lock.
_ROCKETS._
Rockets are charged in choked cases, on a spindle, to leave a hollow up
the middle, through which the fire may be communicated to nearly the
whole of the composition at once: this causes the sudden generation of
an enormous quantity of elastic vapour, which, being unable to escape
instantly through the contracted aperture left for its exit, exerts its
pressure in the contrary direction, and hurries the rocket forward. A
stick, attached to it, guides it, like the rudder of a vessel, or tail
of a bird, or fish; while its weight and leverage keep the centre of
gravity a little below the case, and prevent the rocket from pitching
over. Its manufacture, therefore, from the commencement of cutting the
paper for the case, to its finish of fitting on the stick, requires an
accurate adjustment of all its parts. Disregarding the trade names of
pound, ounce, &c., which, now that moulds are dispensed with, are
useful only for enabling the makers, from tradition, to understand each
other; the internal diameter, instead of the external, as formerly, may
be selected, from which to compute the relative measures. Taking the
bore of the case as unity, the proportions will be as follow:--
1 Internal diameter of case.
1-1/2 External diameter.
8 Length of case.
6 Length of spindle.
3/5 Bottom diameter of spindle.
64 Length of stick.
1/2 by 1/2 Thickness and breadth of stick.
These proportions are most readily calculated by taking the diameter in
eighths of an inch. Selecting, for instance, a 6/8 rocket, we have, 6/8,
inner diameter; half as much again, 9/8, outer diameter.
Taking the numerator as inches: 6 inches, length of case; 3/4 of this,
or, which is the same, 1/2 the outer diameter, as inches, 4-1/2 inches,
length of spindle; putting 20 for the denominator, instead of 8 (8 being
2/5 of 20), 6/20 of an inch, bottom diameter of spindle; 6 × 8,
(numerator multiplied by denominator) = 48 inches, length of stick; 3/8
by 3/8, size of stick.
The following table exhibits the usual sizes in inches.
Key to Column Labels:
A: Name of Rocket.
B: Inner Diameter.
C: Outer Diameter.
D: Length of Case.
E: Length of Spindle.
F: Bottom Diameter of Spindle.
G: Length of Stick.
H: Size of Stick.
+----+-----+------+----+---+------+----------------+-------------+
| A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H |
+----+-----+------+----+---+------+----------------+-------------+
|10/8| 10/8| 15/8| 10 | 7½| 10/20| 10 times 8 = 80| 5/8 by 5/8|
| 9/8| 9/8| 13½/8| 9 | 6¾| 9/20| 9 times 8 = 72| 4½/8 by 4½/8|
| 8/8| 8/8| 12/8| 8 | 6 | 8/20| 8 times 8 = 64| 4/8 by 4/8|
| 7/8| 7/8| 10½/8| 7 | 5¼| 7/20| 7 times 8 = 56| 3½/8 by 3½/8|
| 6/8| 6/8| 9/8| 6 | 4½| 6/20| 6 times 8 = 48| 3/8 by 3/8|
| 5/8| 5/8| 7½/8| 5 | 3¾| 5/20| 5 times 8 = 40| 2½/8 by 2½/8|
|4½/8| 4½/8| 6¾/8| 4½| 3⅜| 4½/20| 4½ times 8 = 36| 2¼/8 by 2¼/8|
| 4/8| 4/8| 6/8| 4 | 3 | 4/20| 4 times 8 = 32| 2/8 by 2/8|
| 3/8| 3/8| 4½/8| 3 | 2¼| 3/20| 3 times 8 = 24| 1½/8 by 1½/8|
+----+-----+------+----+---+------+----------------+-------------+
TO MAKE A 6/8 ROCKET.
Have the former, fig. 7, a brass tube 6/8 of an inch external diameter;
the gauge, fig. 8, with a 9/8 aperture; procure some imperial brown
paper, 70 lb. or 84 lb., the thicker and heavier the better. The best
kind is made of old ropes, is air-dried, and rough. This is not easily
obtained now. The smooth machine-made, cylinder-dried answers very well.
The sort used for laying under carpets, and which is 5 feet broad, is
almost equal to the original rough imperial, and should be procured, if
possible, in preference to the smooth. Cut it into strips 6 inches wide.
Paste the pieces well, and roll the cases as hard as possible, with the
rolling board fig. 6, till they fit the gauge. Lay them by for a few
hours to get partially dry. They must, then, be choked or strangled,
about half a diameter from one end of the case, that end that lay
nearest to the left hand in rolling, till they assume the shape of the
neck of a vial. For this purpose have a cylindrical piece of deal,
alder, or any kind of wood, fig. 24, about 9 or 10 inches long, made to
fit easily into the case; cut it into 2 pieces, a and b; b may be an
inch and a half long; round off the ends, just cut. In a, fasten a
screw, the solid wire, or uncut part of which, is 1/4 of an inch thick;
saw, or file off the head, and slightly taper the part projecting; in
the piece b bore a hole to just fit the wire of a. Slip b upon a, and
push them into the case, so that the interval between the two reaches
within about 1/2 an inch of one end of the case; slightly draw out b, to
leave a neck, or hollow, round which to form the choke; fix a staple, or
screw-eye in a post: tie to it one end of a piece of cord, about a yard
long, and 1/10 of an inch thick; fasten the other end round the middle
of a stick, for a handle; take hold of the stick with the right hand;
hold the case in the left; pass the cord round the space left vacant and
gradually tighten it, turning the case round and round, so as to pinch
it in equally on all sides, till it assumes the shape of fig. 23. Hitch
a piece of string, about 1/16 of an inch thick, a few times round the
neck, until it is filled up flush with the other part of the case,
remove the choker, and hang the case up to dry. A hitch is made by
simply bending the string backwards into a loop, like fig. 22; passing
it round the choke; pulling it tight; looping it again, again passing it
round the choke, and so on. The first loop is called a half hitch, and
will not hold of itself; the second loop completes the hitch, and makes
it hold: the remaining hitches are for filling up the choke, and
restoring the cylindrical shape. Practise, by hitching the string upon
your thumb, 4 or 5 times: it will hold after the second loop; but push
it off at the end, and it will all fall loose again.