In the fall of 1884, we ate some cheese at Mr. N.L. Brown's, Gurnee,
Ill., which was dipped sweeter and put to press softer than we ever
thought of doing; yet the cheese was close-grained and fine-flavored,
and one that would pass muster as a first-class cheese anywhere. But it
was not cured in a hot curing room, nor in one where the temperature
went up and down the same as it did on the outside of the building.
It was placed in his cellar, at a temperature of 64 degrees, and
there remained until it was fit to cut. Nor was it even rubbed, but
occasionally turned over. When out, it looked like a cheese that had
been kept in a box a year, covered with mold and mites. The superfluous
moisture was dried out but the butter was all left. It demonstrated
what can be done by temperature. Had this cheese been cured in an
ordinary curing-room, it would have gone all out of shape in a few
days--as soon as rapid fermentation set in--and been off flavor by
the time it was ten days old. Several other cheeses were cured in the
same cellar, in the same way, but none of them were put to press so
soft or sweet, but all sweet-curd cheeses, and all buttery and fine.
This particular one was the result of hurry, as other matters than
the curd demanded attention. But the thought came that it would be a
good experiment, as it was, and the result was satisfactory, though
not different from what was expected. Cheeses made in the same way as
the others that were cured in the cellar, and some cooked more and
soured more, were made by the same gentleman and cured in an ordinary
curing-room. In hot weather, they swelled and some of them got out of
shape, while the flavor was sharp and rough. But those in the cellar,
at 64 degrees, apparently never moved a hair's breadth out of shape,
were as solid as old butter, yet firm enough for shipping even, and of
the finest flavor. It is hardly necessary to say that the cellar was
exceedingly clean and sweet, and was well ventilated. These cheeses
were a demonstration, if not a revelation.