The principal markets of New York are the Fulton, Washington, Jefferson,
Catharine, Union, Clinton, Franklin, Centre, and Tompkins Markets. With
the exception of Tompkins Market, they are, as far as the houses are
concerned, unmitigated nuisances to the city. They are in the last
stages of dilapidation, and from without present the most ungainly
spectacles to be witnessed in New York. The streets around them are
always dirty and crowded, and in the hot days of the summer the air is
loaded with foul smells which arise from them.
Within, however, the scene is very different. The rickety old buildings
are crammed to repletion with everything edible the season affords. In
the summer the display of fruit is often magnificent. The products of
every section of the Union are piled up here in the greatest profusion.
The country for miles around the city has been stripped of its choicest
luxuries, and even the distant West, and the far-off South have sent
their contributions to the bountiful store. Meats, fish, and fowl also
abound, of every species and description. Indeed, one who has the means
can purchase here almost everything the heart can desire. The demand is
great, and the prices are high. The stock seems immense, but it
disappears rapidly. Fruits command high prices in New York, but sell
readily. The market is very rarely overstocked. The same may be said of
vegetables. Good vegetables are always in demand. Those who furnish
pure, fresh vegetables and meats are sure of a prosperous trade, but the
amount of tainted wares of this kind disposed of daily is surprising.
Nothing is lost here. Everything finds a purchaser.
[Picture: WASHINGTON MARKET.]
Two-thirds of the people of the city, to save time and trouble, deal with
the "corner groceries," and "provision stores," and never see the
markets, but still the number of persons patronizing these establishments
is very large. The sales begin between four and five o'clock in the
morning. The first comers are the caterers for the hotels, the
restaurants, the fashionable boarding houses and the mansions of the
rich, and the proprietors of the aforesaid "corner groceries" and
"provision stores." These latter charge their own customers an advance
of from twenty-five to fifty per cent. on the market rates. Prices are
high at this hour, and the best the market affords is quickly disposed
of. The hotels and restaurants leave standing orders with the dealers,
but always send their caterers to see that these orders are faithfully
executed. "Market-men have to be watched," say the caterers.
As the morning advances, prices decline. The dealers have reaped their
harvest, and can afford to "fall" on what is left. Now come those whose
means compel them to be content with indifferent fare. With them is seen
a perfect torrent of boarding-house keepers, who are too smart to come
when the prices are high and the articles good and fresh. Others, too,
the dealers will tell you, are independently wealthy, some are said to be
millionaires. They are niggardly as to their tables, though they make
great show in other respects, and they will haggle over the last penny.
Last of all, towards ten o'clock, and later, come the poor, to purchase
what is left. God help them! It is no wonder the death rate is large in
this class.
The best known markets are the Fulton, at the end of Fulton street, on
East River, and the Washington, at the western end of the same street, on
North River. Almost anything can be found in the Fulton market. There
are all kinds of provisions here; eating stands abound; bar rooms are
located in the cellars; cheap finery is offered by the bushel in some of
the stalls; books, newspapers, and periodicals are to be found in others,
at prices lower than those of the regular stores; and ice creams,
confections, and even hardware and dry goods are sold here. The oysters
of this market have a worldwide reputation. _Dorlan's_ oyster house is
the best known. It is a plain, rough-looking room, but it is patronized
by the best people in the city, for nowhere else on the island are such
delicious oysters to be had. Ladies in full street dress, young bloods
in all their finery, statesmen, distinguished soldiers, those whom you
will meet in the most exclusive drawing rooms of the avenue, come here to
partake of the proprietor's splendid "stews."
It is more than thirty years since Dorlan began business here, and he has
amassed a handsome fortune. He has done so by providing the best oysters
in the market. He is well known throughout the city, and is deservedly
popular. He is conscientious, upright in the minutest particular, and
gives his personal attention to every detail of his business. Although
very wealthy, he may still be seen at his stand, in his shirt sleeves, as
of old, superintending the operations of his establishment, and setting
an excellent example to younger men who are seeking to rise in the world.
The Washington market is more of a wholesale than a retail establishment.
Supplies of meat, fish, vegetables, etc., are usually sent to the
wholesale dealers here, to be sold on commission. These dealers will
frequently go into the country, and engage a truckman's entire crop of
vegetables and fruits, and then retail them to city dealers at their own
prices.