The clothing consisted of a flannel shirt, flannel drawers, canvas

trousers, and a canvas jacket--all stained of a tawny copper colour; but

all quite clean. A white night-cap and a round hat, composed of some

iron-hard substance, well calculated to protect the head from any loose

stones that might fall on it, completed the equipment; to which, three

tallow-candles were afterwards added, two to hang at the buttonhole, one

to carry in the hand.

My friend was dressed first. He had got a suit which fitted him

tolerably, and which, as far as appearances went, made a miner of him at

once. Far different was my case.

The same mysterious dispensation of fate, which always awards tall wives

to short men, decreed that a suit of the big miner's should be reserved

for me. He stood six feet two inches--I stand five feet six inches. I

put on his flannel shirt--it fell down to my toes, like a bedgown; his

drawers--and they flowed in Turkish luxuriance over my feet. At his

trousers I helplessly stopped short, lost in the voluminous recesses of

each leg. The big miner, like a good Samaritan as he was, came to my

assistance. He put the pocket button through the waist buttonhole, to

keep the trousers up in the first instance; then, he pulled steadily at

the braces until my waistband was under my armpits; and then he

pronounced that I and my trousers fitted each other in great perfection.

The cuffs of the jacket were next turned up to my elbows--the white

night-cap was dragged over my ears--the round hat was jammed down over

my eyes. When I add to all this, that I am so nearsighted as to be

obliged to wear spectacles, and that I finished my toilet by putting my

spectacles on (knowing that I should see little or nothing without

them), nobody, I think, will be astonished to hear that my companion

seized his sketch-book, and caricatured me on the spot; and that the

grave miner, polite as he was, shook with internal laughter, when I took

up my tallow-candles and reported myself ready for a descent into the

mine.

We left the counting-house, and ascended the face of the cliff--then,

walked a short distance along the edge, descended a little again, and

stopped at a wooden platform built across a deep gully. Here, the miner

pulled up a trap-door, and disclosed a perpendicular ladder leading down

to a black hole, like the opening of a chimney. "This is the shaft; I

will go down first, to catch you in case you tumble; follow me and hold

tight;" saying this, our friend squeezed himself through the trap-door,

and we went after him as we had been bidden.

The black hole, when we entered it, proved to be not quite so dark as it

had appeared from above. Rays of light occasionally penetrated it

through chinks in the outer rock. But by the time we had got some little

way farther down, these rays began to fade. Then, just as we seemed to

be lowering ourselves into total darkness, we were desired to stand on a

narrow landing-place opposite the ladder, and wait there while the miner

went below for a light. He soon reascended to us, bringing, not only the

light he had promised, but a large lump of damp clay with it. Having

lighted our candles he stuck them against the front of our hats with the

clay--in order, as he said, to leave both our hands free to us to use as

we liked. Thus strangely accoutred, like Solomon Eagles in the Great

Plague, with flame on our heads, we resumed the descent of the shaft;

and now at last began to penetrate beneath the surface of the earth in

good earnest.

The process of getting down the ladders was not very pleasant. They were

all quite perpendicular, the rounds were placed at irregular distances,

were many of them much worn away, and were slippery with water and

copper-ooze. Add to this, the narrowness of the shaft, the dripping wet

rock shutting you in, as it were, all round your back and sides against

the ladder--the fathomless darkness beneath--the light flaring

immediately above you, as if your head was on fire--the voice of the

miner below, rumbling away in dull echoes lower and lower into the

bowels of the earth--the consciousness that if the rounds of the ladder

broke, you might fall down a thousand feet or so of narrow tunnel in a

moment--imagine all this, and you may easily realize what are the first

impressions produced by a descent into a Cornish mine.

By the time we had got down seventy fathoms, or four hundred and twenty

feet of perpendicular ladders, we stopped at another landing-place, just

broad enough to afford standing room for us three. Here, the miner,

pointing to an opening yawning horizontally in the rock at one side of

us, said that this was the first gallery from the surface; that we had

done with the ladders for the present; and that a little climbing and

crawling were now to begin.

Our path was a strange one, as we advanced through the rift. Rough

stones of all sizes, holes here, and eminences there, impeded us at

every yard. Sometimes, we could walk on in a stooping position--sometimes,

we were obliged to crawl on our hands and knees. Occasionally, greater

difficulties than these presented themselves. Certain parts of the

gallery dipped into black, ugly-looking pits, crossed by thin planks,

over which we walked dizzily, a little bewildered by the violent contrast

between the flaring light that we carried above us, and the pitch darkness

beneath and before us. One of these places terminated in a sudden rising

in the rock, hollowed away below, but surmounted by a narrow projecting

wooden platform, to which it was necessary to climb by cross-beams

arranged at wide distances. My companion ascended to this awkward

elevation, without hesitating; but I came to an "awful pause" before it.

Fettered as I was by my Brobdingnag jacket and trousers, I felt a

humiliating consciousness that any extraordinary gymnastic exertion was

altogether out of my power.

Our friend the miner saw my difficulty, and extricated me from it at

once, with a promptitude and skill which deserve record. Descending half

way by the beams, he clutched with one hand that hinder part of my too

voluminous nether garments, which presented the broadest superficies of

canvas to his grasp (I hope the delicate reader appreciates my ingenious

indirectness of expression, when I touch on the unmentionable subject of

trousers!). Grappling me thus, and supporting himself by his free hand,

he lifted me up as easily as if I had been a small parcel; then carried

me horizontally along the loose boards, like a refractory little boy

borne off by the usher to the master's birch; or--considering the candle

burning on my hat, and the necessity of elevating my position by as

lofty a comparison as I can make--like a flying Mercury with a star on

his head; and finally deposited me safely upon my legs again, on the

firm rock pathway beyond. "You are but a light and a little man, my

son," says this excellent fellow, snuffing my candle for me before we go

on; "only let me lift you about as I like, and you shan't come to any

harm while I am with you!"

Speaking thus, the miner leads us forward again. After we have walked a

little farther in a crouching position, he calls a halt, makes a seat

for us by sticking a piece of old board between the rocky walls of the

gallery, and then proceeds to explain the exact subterranean position

which we actually occupy.

We are now four hundred yards out, _under the bottom of the sea_; and

twenty fathoms or a hundred and twenty feet below the sea level.

Coast-trade vessels are sailing over our heads. Two hundred and forty

feet beneath us men are at work, and there are galleries deeper yet,

even below that! The extraordinary position down the face of the cliff,

of the engines and other works on the surface, at Botallack, is now

explained. The mine is not excavated like other mines under the land,

but under the sea!

Having communicated these particulars, the miner next tells us to keep

strict silence and listen. We obey him, sitting speechless and

motionless. If the reader could only have beheld us now, dressed in our

copper-coloured garments, huddled close together in a mere cleft of

subterranean rock, with flame burning on our heads and darkness

enveloping our limbs--he must certainly have imagined, without any

violent stretch of fancy, that he was looking down upon a conclave of

gnomes.

After listening for a few moments, a distant, unearthly noise becomes

faintly audible--a long, low, mysterious moaning, which never changes,

which is _felt_ on the ear as well as _heard_ by it--a sound that might

proceed from some incalculable distance, from some far invisible

height--a sound so unlike anything that is heard on the upper ground, in

the free air of heaven; so sublimely mournful and still; so ghostly and

impressive when listened to in the subterranean recesses of the earth,

that we continue instinctively to hold our peace, as if enchanted by

it, and think not of communicating to each other the awe and

astonishment which it has inspired in us from the very first.

At last, the miner speaks again, and tells us that what we hear is the

sound of the surf, lashing the rocks a hundred and twenty feet above us,

and of the waves that are breaking on the beach beyond. The tide is now

at the flow, and the sea is in no extraordinary state of agitation: so

the sound is low and distant just at this period. But, when storms are

at their height, when the ocean hurls mountain after mountain of water

on the cliffs, then the noise is terrific; the roaring heard down here

in the mine is so inexpressibly fierce and awful, that the boldest men

at work are afraid to continue their labour. All ascend to the surface,

to breathe the upper air and stand on the firm earth: dreading, though

no such catastrophe has ever happened yet, that the sea will break in on

them if they remain in the caverns below.

Hearing this, we get up to look at the rock above us. We are able to

stand upright in the position we now occupy; and flaring our candles

hither and thither in the darkness, can see the bright pure copper

streaking the dark ceiling of the gallery in every direction. Lumps of

ooze, of the most lustrous green colour, traversed by a natural network

of thin red veins of iron, appear here and there in large irregular

patches, over which water is dripping slowly and incessantly in certain

places. This is the salt water percolating through invisible crannies in

the rock. On stormy days it spirts out furiously in thin, continuous

streams. Just over our heads we observe a wooden plug of the thickness

of a man's leg; there is a hole here, and the plug is all that we have

to keep out the sea.

Immense wealth of metal is contained in the roof of this gallery,

throughout its whole length; but it remains, and will always remain,

untouched. The miners dare not take it, for it is part, and a great

part, of the rock which forms their only protection against the sea; and

which has been so far worked away here, that its thickness is limited to

an average of three feet only between the water and the gallery in which

we now stand. No one knows what might be the consequence of another

day's labour with the pickaxe on any part of it.

This information is rather startling when communicated at a depth of

four hundred and twenty feet under ground. We should decidedly have

preferred to receive it in the counting-house! It makes us pause for an

instant, to the miner's infinite amusement, in the very act of knocking

away a tiny morsel of ore from the rock, as a memento of Botallack.

Having, however, ventured on reflection to assume the responsibility of

weakening our defence against the sea, by the length and breadth of an

inch, we secure our piece of copper, and next proceed to discuss the

propriety of descending two hundred and forty feet more of ladders, for

the sake of visiting that part of the mine where the men are at work.

Two or three causes concur to make us doubt the wisdom of going lower.

There is a hot, moist, sickly vapour floating about us, which becomes

more oppressive every moment; we are already perspiring at every pore,

as we were told we should; and our hands, faces, jackets, and trousers

are all more or less covered with a mixture of mud, tallow, and

iron-drippings, which we can feel and smell much more acutely than is

exactly desirable. We ask the miner what there is to see lower down. He

replies, nothing but men breaking ore with pickaxes; the galleries of

the mine are alike, however deep they may go; when you have seen one

you have seen all.

The answer decides us--we determine to get back to the surface.

We returned along the gallery, just as we had advanced, with the same

large allowance of scrambling, creeping, and stumbling on our way. I was

charitably carried along and down the platform over the pit, by my

trousers, as before; our order of procession only changing when we

gained the ladders again. Then, our friend the miner went last instead

of first, upon the same principle of being ready to catch us if we fell,

which led him to precede us on our descent. Except that one of the

rounds cracked under his weight as we went up, we ascended without

casualties of any kind. As we neared the mouth of the shaft, the

daylight atmosphere looked dazzlingly white, after the darkness in which

we had been groping so long; and when we once more stood out on the

cliff, we felt a cold, health-giving purity in the sea breeze, and, at

the same time, a sense of recovered freedom in the power that we now

enjoyed of running, jumping, and stretching our limbs in perfect

security, and with full space for action, which it was almost a new

sensation to experience. Habit teaches us to think little of the light

and air that we live and breathe in, or, at most, to view them only as

the ordinary conditions of our being. To find out that they are more

than this, that they are a luxury as well as a necessity of life, go

down into a mine, and compare what you _can_ exist in there, with what

you _do_ exist in, on upper earth!

On re-entering the counting-house, we were greeted by the welcome

appearance of two large tubs of water, with soap and flannel placed

invitingly by their sides. Copious ablutions and clean clothes are

potent restorers of muscular energy. These, and a half hour of repose,

enabled us to resume our knapsacks as briskly as ever, and walk on

fifteen miles to the town of St. Ives--our resting place for the night.

* * * * *

While we were sitting in the counting-house, we had some talk with our

good-humoured and intelligent guide, on the subject of miners and mining

at Botallack. Some of the local information that he gave us, may

interest the reader--to whom I do not pretend to offer more here than a

simple record of a half hour's gossip. I could only write elaborately

about the Cornish mines, by swelling my pages with extracts on the

subject from Encyclopædias and Itineraries which are within easy reach

of every one, and on the province of which, it is neither my business

nor my desire to intrude.

Botallack mine is a copper mine; but tin, and occasionally iron, are

found in it as well. It is situated at the western extremity of the

great strata of copper, tin, and lead, running eastward through

Cornwall, as far as the Dartmoor Hills. According to the statement of my

informant in the counting-house, it has been worked for more than a

century. In former times, it produced enormous profits to the

speculators; but now the case is altered. The price of copper has fallen

of late years; the lodes have proved neither so rich nor so extensive,

as at past periods; and the mine, when we visited Cornwall, had failed

to pay the expenses of working it.

The organization of labour at Botallack, and in all other mines

throughout the county, is thus managed:--The men work eight hours

underground, out of the twenty-four; taking their turn of night duty

(for labour proceeds in the mines by night as well as by day), in

regular rotation. The different methods on which their work is

undertaken, and the rates of remuneration that they receive, have been

already touched on, in the chapter on the "Cornish People." It will be

found that ordinary wages for mine labour, are there stated as ranging

from forty to fifty shillings a month--mention being made at the same

time, of the larger remuneration which may be obtained by working "on

tribute," or, in other words, by agreeing to excavate the lodes of metal

for a per-centage which varies with the varying value of the mineral

raised. It is, however, necessary to add here, that, although men who

labour on this latter plan, occasionally make as much as six or ten

pounds each, in a month, they are on the other hand liable to heavy

losses from the speculative character of the work in which they engage.

The lode may, for instance, be poor when they begin to work it, and may

continue poor as they proceed farther and farther. Under these

circumstances, the low value of the mineral they have raised, realizes a

correspondingly low rate of per-centage; and when this happens, the best

workmen cannot make more than twenty shillings a month.

Another system on which the men are employed, is the system of

"contract." A certain quantity of ore in the rock is mapped out by the

captain of the mine; and put up to auction among the miners thus:--One

man mentions a sum for which he is willing to undertake excavating the

ore, upon the understanding that he is himself to pay for the

assistance, candles, &c., out of the price he asks. Another man, who is

also anxious to get the contract, then offers to accept it on lower

terms; a third man's demand is smaller still; and so they proceed until

the piece of work is knocked down to the lowest bidder. By this sort of

labour the contracting workman--after he has paid his expenses for

assistance--seldom clears more than twelve shillings a week.

Upon the whole, setting his successful and his disastrous speculations

fairly against each other, the Cornish miner's average gains, year by

year, may be fairly estimated at about ten shillings a week. "It's hard

work we have to do, sir," said my informant, summing up, when we parted,

the proportions of good and evil in the social positions of his brethren

and himself--"harder work than people think, down in the heat and

darkness under ground. We may get a good deal at one time, but we get

little enough at another; sometimes mines are shut up, and then we are

thrown out altogether--but, good work or bad work, or no work at all,

what with our bits of ground for potatoes and greens, and what with

cheap living, somehow we and our families make it do. We contrive to

keep our good cloth coat for Sundays, and go to chapel in the

morning--for we're most of us Wesleyans--and then to church in the

afternoon; so as to give 'em both their turn like! We never go near the

mine on Sundays, except to look after the steam-pump: our rest, and our

walk in the evening once a week, is a good deal to us. That's how we

live, sir; whatever happens, we manage to work through, and don't

complain!"

Although the occupation of smelting the copper above ground is, as may

well be imagined, unhealthy enough, the labour of getting it from the

mine (by blasting the subterranean rock in the first place, and then

hewing and breaking the ore out of the fragments), seems to be attended

with no bad effect on the constitution. The miners are a fine-looking

race of men--strong and well-proportioned. The fact appears to be, that

they gain more, physically, by the pure air of the cliffs and moors on

which their cottages are built, and the temperance of their lives (many

of them are "teetotallers"), than they lose by their hardest exertions

in the underground atmosphere in which they work.

Serious accidents are rare in the mines of Cornwall. From the horrors of

such explosions as take place in coal mines, they are by their nature

entirely free. The casualties that oftenest occur are serious falls,

generally produced by the carelessness of inexperienced or foolhardy

people. Of these, and of extraordinary escapes from death with which

they are associated, many anecdotes are told in mining districts, which

would appear to the reader exaggerated, or positively untrue, if I

related them on mere hearsay evidence. There was, however, one instance

of a fall down the shaft of a mine, unattended with fatal consequences,

which occurred while I was in Cornwall; and which I may safely adduce,

for I can state some of the facts connected with the affair as an

eyewitness. I attended an examination of the sufferer by a medical man,

and heard the story of the accident from the parents of the patient.

On the 7th of August 1850, a boy fourteen years of age, the son of a

miner, slipped into the shaft of Boscaswell Down Mine, in the

neighbourhood of Penzance. He fell to the depth of thirteen fathoms, or

seventy-eight feet. Fifty-eight feet down, he struck his left side

against a board placed across the shaft, snapped it in two, and then

falling twenty feet more, pitched on his head. He was of course taken

up insensible; the doctor was sent for; and on examining him, found, to

his amazement, that there was actually a chance of the boy's recovery

after this tremendous fall!

Not a bone in his body was broken. He was bruised and scratched all

over, and there were three cuts--none of them serious--on his head. The

board stretched across the shaft, twenty feet from the bottom, had saved

him from being dashed to pieces; but had inflicted at the same time,

where his left side had struck it, the only injury that appeared

dangerous to the medical man--a large, hard lump that could be felt

under the bruised skin. The boy showed no symptoms of fever; his pulse,

day after day, was found never varying from eighty-two to the minute;

his appetite was voracious; and the internal functions of his body only

required a little ordinary medicine to keep them properly at work. In

short, nothing was to be dreaded but the chance of the formation of an

abscess in his left side, between the hip and ribs. He had been under

medical care exactly one week, when I accompanied the doctor on a visit

to him.

The cottage where he lived with his parents, though small, was neat and

comfortable. We found him lying in bed, awake. He looked languid and

lethargic; but his skin was moist and cool; his face displayed no

paleness, and no injury of any kind. He had just eaten a good dinner of

rabbit-pie, and was anxious to be allowed to sit up in a chair, and

amuse himself by looking out of the window. His left side was first

examined. A great circular bruise discoloured the skin, over the whole

space between the hip and ribs; but on touching it, the doctor

discovered that the lump beneath had considerably decreased in size, and

was much less hard than it had felt during previous visits. Next we

looked at his back and arms--they were scratched and bruised all over;

but nowhere seriously. Lastly, the dressings were taken off his head,

and three cuts were disclosed, which even a non-medical eye could easily

perceive to be of no great importance. Such were all the results of a

fall of seventy-eight feet.

The boy's father reiterated to me the account of the accident, just as I

had already heard it from the doctor. How it happened, he said, could

only be guessed, for his son had completely forgotten all the

circumstances immediately preceding the fall; neither could he

communicate any of the sensations which must have attended it. Most

probably, he had been sitting dangling his legs idly over the mouth of

the shaft, and had so slipped in. But however the accident really

happened, there the sufferer was before us--less seriously hurt than

many a lad who has trodden on a piece of orange peel as he was walking

along the street.

We left him (humanly speaking) certain of recovery, now that the

dangerous lump in his side had begun to decrease. I heard afterwards

from his medical attendant, that in two months from the date of the

accident, he was at work again as usual in the mine; at that very part

of it, too, where his fall had taken place!

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