CHAPTER X

THE BATHROOM

With the subject of the bathroom before us, it would seem to be in

order to promulgate the only really true theory of bathing. But this

is not a treatise upon hygiene, and the world already has been flooded

with advice on this subject, ranging from the urgings of those

amphibiously inclined folk who would each day run the whole gamut of

splash, souse, and scrub, to the theories of the dauntless Chicago

doctor who would put all humanity on a level by abolishing bathing

altogether. So we shall merely discuss the means of making the

bathroom attractive and serviceable, trusting to our individual good

sense for its proper use.

Everyone has heard of the good woman who was showing some friends about

her new home. The bathtub was an object of special pride. "Why," she

exclaimed, in a glow of enthusiasm, "it's so nice that we can scarcely

wait till Saturday night." We may laugh at her naïveté, but there is a

good deal more of the "waiting for Saturday night" proposition than is

good for--some of our neighbors. And, on the other hand, there is more

of the heroic sort of bathing by faithful devotees of cleanliness than

is necessary.

The persistent spirit will have his bath, if it has to be with bowl and

sponge in a cold room. But while most persons are persistently

cleanly, bathing in the interest of healthfulness should be regular,

and it should be enjoyable, and it cannot be either unless the bathroom

is properly equipped and is ready for service when wanted. Even at

some extra cost, it should be made possible to secure hot water

promptly, and without agitating the whole household, at any reasonable

hour of any day of the week. No family that we ever knew went bankrupt

on account of the cost of hot water for bathing, and if they did they

would have a pretty valid excuse.

PLUMBING

The bathroom is the heart of the plumbing problem, and it is not

necessary to declare that the plumbing is the most important feature of

the house, so far as health is concerned. Did we examine an old house

(one of even ten years ago) with a view to purchasing or renting, the

condition of the plumbing would be a first consideration. If it were

not safe and in good order, we should have to make it so, for of course

no one who is mentally competent would take any chances on such a

menace to the family welfare. And to repair antiquated plumbing is an

ungrateful task, while to replace it entirely requires both courage and

a willingness to let go of one's money in large wads.

Now, we want to remember that we shall wish to have our plumbing

satisfactory, not only when the house is new, but ten years later, when

it is not new. To make sure of this, we need first of all to know

something of modern methods and equipment. Then we should employ a

capable plumber, though he may cost us more than the merely passable

sort. Finally, we should supplement good workmanship with the best

materials. It may be noted that after the supply houses have evolved

the best materials, in the sense that the materials are convenient,

good to look at, and perfectly sanitary, they add frills and

decorations that bring up the cost to any amount we insist upon

spending. But we can get what we really require without paying for the

frills, if we exhibit tolerable ability in the selection of essentials.

Open plumbing is, of course, the only sort that any self-respecting

plumber of these days would consent to put in; if he hints at anything

else, we may well be suspicious of him. Not only should the plumbing

be where we can see and get at it, but sinks, lavatories, and tubs

should have no inclosures that may retain filth or become water-soaked.

Sewer gas is not the only evil to be guarded against, but it is the

greatest. It is also the subtlest, for in some of its most deadly

forms it is inodorous, and usually does its work before we become

conscious of its existence. The poisonous gas is not necessarily

generated in the sewer, but may be created anywhere in the pipes that

obstructions or uneven surfaces permit filth to accumulate. If,

however, the plumbing is modern and of substantial quality to begin

with, has stood all the tests, and is accessible and fairly well

understood by at least one member of the household, reasonable

vigilance will obviate practically all worry about sewer gas.

BATHROOM LOCATION AND FURNISHING

Usually the bathroom is placed in a central location on the second

floor, accessible, if possible, by both rear and front stairways. In a

small house the upper floor is always advisable, as the bathroom should

be well retired from the living quarters. Where the space can be

spared, there should be a closet, however, on the main floor, or at

least in the basement, where it will be readily accessible from the

back part of the house. If the bathtub is popular with the household,

it is in constant use, and for this reason the closet is in some cases

cut off from it, and is reached by a separate door.

[Illustration: The bathroom.]

The principal thought being to eliminate anything which will retain

water, tile or rubber flooring is preeminently best for the bathroom.

If wood is substituted, it should be oak or maple, thoroughly oiled.

Nothing should rest upon the floor to prevent any portion of the

surface from being thoroughly cleaned. A tile wainscoting is almost

indispensable. Paper will not stand steam and moisture, and calcimine

is scarcely better. Canvas or burlap above a four- or five-foot

wainscoting makes an attractive combination. All-white is not called

for, but light tints of green, buff, or terra cotta will give a

softening touch of color without destroying the general effect of

immaculateness.

Art glass in the window can scarcely fail to add to the attractiveness

of the room. It may be had for from 75 cents to $3.50 per square foot.

A rug is an essential, but it should be of a sort that will not readily

absorb and retain water. Speaking of the window, it must be observed

that outdoor ventilation, without disturbing privacy, should be made

possible. Often a bathroom becomes quite suffocating, and with weakly

persons the danger of being overcome in a locked room is not to be left

out of consideration.

THE TUB

The tub may be of enameled iron or of porcelain. The former costs very

much less and is almost as satisfactory as the latter, though in the

cheaper sorts at least the enamel will eventually crack. Of course it

can be reenameled, but in most things for the home there will be enough

of repairing without counting too much upon the ease with which it may

be done. That which will go longest without any repairs is usually

best. Still, as between the two kinds of tubs, one can scarcely make a

mistake either way, and the difference in price will govern the

decision of most of us.

To be consistent in our thought of keeping the floor clear, we should

have a bathtub that rests upon legs. It should not, if avoidable, be

placed under the window, and if it can be several inches from the wall,

it is more easily cleaned on the outside, and the space next to the

wall need not accumulate--or at least retain--soap, towels, and sponges

that elude the grasp of the bather. Tubs come in lengths from four to

six feet, and cost accordingly. The comfort of a six-foot bath to

persons of any considerable elongation is always manifest, while a

four-foot tub is merely better than a footbath. Where hot water is not

on tap in unlimited quantities, five feet is a fair compromise. In

porcelain enameled ware a tub of this size costs from $27 to $60,

without fittings. The better-class goods, included in this range, are

warranted not to crack or "craze." Porcelain prices are almost double

those mentioned. If we want stripings or pretty flowers or highly

ornamented legs for the tub, we will be permitted to pay for them, but

they are scarcely requisites in the bathroom economy.

Waste and overflow arrangements for the tub must be well looked after.

When the master of the household is likely at any time to turn on the

water for a dip and then become absorbed in studying the latest

automobile catalogue, one feels safer to know that the superfluous

water will find a ready outlet through the pipes, rather than the

floors and halls. The same precautions are to be observed with the

lavatory, where young America may choose to devote himself to original

experiments in hydrostatics instead of performing the simple process of

expeditiously removing the grime from his digits.

THE LAVATORY

Anything that is all of one piece is likely to prove more lasting than

the other kinds, in the lavatory. There are various combinations, some

of them including handsome marble tops, but basin and top should not be

separate. If the wall is tile, the back that fits to it is not

essential; but if the back is used, it should be of a piece with the

slab, bowl, and apron, to avoid ugly cracks and breakage. The bracket

form is usually regarded as most convenient, as legs are often in the

way, unobtrusive looking as they may be. Another method of attachment

is by a concealed wall hanger. The pedestal design is somewhat more

artistic, but additionally expensive not only in the beginning, but

afterward in the event of damage. Lavatories in enameled iron cost

from $16 to $75, including fittings and pipes above floor. Some people

like running water in their bedrooms, and a private lavatory is certain

to be appreciated by visitors. Objection has been made that the

introduction of plumbing into the bedroom affords a new source of

sewer-gas poisoning, but with modern materials and workmanship this

need not be feared. For the bedroom the supply man will recommend the

pedestal arrangement, costing about $50; but less expensive forms might

serve. Of course every additional outlet, such as this, increases the

piping bill and outlay for labor.

THE CLOSET

So far as the health of the family is concerned, the most important

feature of the bathroom is the closet. Here it would be simply folly

for us to let any consideration of dollars prompt us to substitute an

inferior or out-of-date apparatus for the safe kind. It would be

better to sell the piano or even to steal the money from the baby's

bank.

The only safety against sewer gas in the closet is to prevent it (the

gas) from entering the house, and to make sure that gas from the water

pipes is given an adequate exit and compelled to make use of it. The

old-style washout closet was a pretty good assurance that the one gas

would get in and that the other could not get out. The siphon closet

of recent manufacture seems to be a much more dependable sort of

contraption, though we need not accept as gospel the makers' assertion

that it is perfection.

The most reliable way to shut out gas is with water. Even in the old

closets it was supposed that the outlet pipe would be kept covered with

water, but as one could not see where the water was or was not, the

supposition wasn't always to be regarded as proper material for an

affidavit. Many a person has moped around and growled at the weather

or the cook or anything he could think of to blame, when it was the

cheap old plumbing arrangement he hadn't thought of that was at the

bottom of his misery. Sometimes, too, we think a little sewer gas is

preferable to the plumber and his bill; but that is a very silly

thought indeed.

The siphon closet not only overflows, but it siphons, or draws out, the

contents of the bowl. This is replaced with clear water, which

completely shuts off the outlet pipe. Comparing the actions of the two

systems, we readily see the better cleansing power of the double

action, while the seal on the vent pipe is always evident. A good

siphon closet costs from $30 to $50, and unless we find something still

safer we would better choose it.

The low tank is preferable in many ways to the sort that is attached to

the wall near the ceiling. It is more compact, can be installed under

windows or stairways, and looks better. Besides, it is not so noisy

and operates with greater ease, with either chain or push button. The

extra cost is slight.

HOT WATER AND HOW TO GET IT

We have named the essentials for use in a bathroom. But there are

other features that add much to its convenience and attractiveness.

Some of these need not be purchased at once; in fact, it is better

here, as elsewhere in the house, to let many things wait upon a

demonstration of their need.

A bathroom without plenty of hot water accessible is not, as we have

previously hinted, likely to become a popular resort. When the wash

boiler and the tea kettle have to be heated on the range and brought up

in a precarious progress that threatens a scalding for fingers, feet,

and floors, to even hint the possibility of the entire household's

insisting upon a daily hot bath suggests lunacy. But if the hot-water

tank is dependent upon the furnace or other house-heating arrangement,

summer is likely to find it out of commission, with the chief element

of a good bath obtainable only with much ado. Then some special means

of heating water is required.

There are many devices, most of them using gas, and disposed to be

cantankerous late at night when all but the would-be bather have

retired. The gas heaters are placed either in connection with the

water tank in kitchen or basement, or above the tub, the water running

in coils over the heater. These arrangements are speedy and

comparatively economical. They are slightly dangerous, however; not

that they are likely to explode, but from the fact that the gas,

particularly if of a poor quality--which is usually the case--rapidly

vitiates the air of the room, and may cause fainting or even

suffocation. If the apparatus is properly adjusted, and one makes sure

of the ventilation, heating the water and admitting fresh air before

entering the tub, no distress need be anticipated. There are also

gasolene and kerosene heaters, and an electric coil placed in the water

is the safest and cleanest but not the quickest or cheapest scheme of

all. Its cost is from $5 to $20.

None of these heating attachments is sure to prove fully satisfactory,

but any one of them is likely to add a great deal to the

serviceableness of the bathroom. To many wholesome people one ideal of

living is to be able to take a dip whenever one wants it, not merely

when one can get it.

A seat of wood, in natural finish or white enamel, is a handy

appurtenance to the tub. It will cost us 50 or 75 cents at a

department store, or we can pay four or five times as much for a

fancier quality at the supply house.

BATHROOM FITTINGS

Of soap holders there are innumerable designs: nickel plated or rubber.

The latter will hardly be chosen. A sort that will come as near as any

to permitting one to grasp the soap without sending it to the far

corner of the room has a grooved bottom and is retailed for 45 cents.

A sponge holder at the same price will keep that useful article within

reach, and for the towels there are bars, rings, and projecting arms.

Nickel-plated brass or glass bars are preferred, as the rings are

elusive affairs for both hands and towels, while the projecting arms

are usually unsubstantial, and if placed too high, constantly threaten

to stimulate the artificial-eye market. The bars, if strongly attached

to the wall, sometimes are a friend in need when one is getting in or

out of the tub or regaining equilibrium after balancing on one foot.

A mirror of good plate but simple design should be in the room, not

necessarily over the lavatory, but better so. Nice ones may be had for

$3 or more. There are tooth-brush and tumbler holders galore, and some

one of these arrangements will be found useful. The kind that provides

for a toothpowder box, and has numbered compartments for brushes, is

best, though there is something to be said for the retention of such

articles within the private domains of their individual owners. An

attachment for toilet paper may be had for a quarter or for a dollar,

and a workable one is worth while, as is a good quality of paper. A

glass shelf, costing anywhere from $1.75 to $12, is almost a necessity,

but there are better places than the bathroom for the medicine cabinet.

A single-tube shower-bath attachment of the simplest sort is a lot

better than none, and need not cost over 50 cents. The more adaptable

kind, with two ends, will be found ticketed at about $2. Thence up to

the elaborate fittings at $250 there are many variations. Sitz baths

and footbaths are rather superfluous in the ordinary bathroom, but we

can spend a hundred dollars for the one and half that for the other

without being taken for plutocrats.

A very fair bathroom, such as would please most of us, may be equipped

on a scale about as follows:

Bathtub............................... $36.00

Five feet long, three-inch roll rim, porcelain enameled, nickel-plated

double bath cock, supply pipes, connected waste and overflow with

cleanout.

Lavatory............................... 30.00

Twenty by twenty-four inches, porcelain enameled, slab, bowl and apron

on four sides in one piece, nickel-plated waste, low-pattern

compression faucets with china indexes, supply pipes with compression

stops, and vented traps.

Closet................................. 35.00

Porcelain enameled, siphonic, oak saddle seat and cover, oak tank (low

set) with marble top and push button, nickel-plated supply pipe with

compression stop.

Total for main essentials..............$101.00

Tub seat, natural oak................. $0.50

Soap holder........................... .90

Sponge holder......................... .95

Toothbrush and tumbler holder......... .75

Glass shelf........................... 1.75

Shower attachment..................... 2.00

Mirror................................ 3.00

Robe hooks............................ .75

Towel bars............................ 1.00

Toilet-paper holder................... .50

Towel basket.......................... 1.00

Grand total...........................$113.10

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