Hunting the Stag--Indian Mode of Chasing the Wild Buffalo: its
Ferocity--Dangerous Sport--Capture of a Buffalo--Narrow Escape of
an Indian Hunter--Return to Manilla--Injustice of the Governor--My
Resignation of Office--I Purchase Property at Jala-Jala--Retire
from Manilla to Take Possession of my Domains--Chinese
Legend--Festival of St Nicholas--Quinaboutasan--Description
of Jala-Jala--Interview with a Bandit Chief--Formation of a
Guard--Preparations for Building--Visit to Manilla, and Return
to Jala-Jala--Completion of my House--Reception of my Wife by
the Natives--The Government of the Philippines--Character of the
Tagaloc Indians--Unmerited Chastisement--A Curate Appointed--Our
Labours at Civilisation--My Hall of Justice--Buffalo Hunting
Expedition.
Naturally fond of hunting, I often went to the home of my Indian
friend in the Marigondon mountains. Together we chased the stag,
and killed the various kinds of birds which abound in these regions
to such an extent that one may always choose between fifteen or
twenty different species of pigeons, wild ducks, and fowl, and it
frequently happened that I brought down five or six at a shot. The
manner of killing wild fowl (a sort of pheasant) much amused me. We
rode across the large plains, strewed with young wood, on good and
beautiful horses, broken in for the purpose; the dogs raised the game,
and, armed with whips, we endeavoured to knock the birds down at a
single blow, which is not so difficult as might be imagined. When a
number of the frightened flocks left the shelter of the wood we put
our steeds to the gallop, and it became a veritable steeple-chase,
such as amateur jockeys would much delight in. I also hunted the stag
with the lance, on horseback; this sport is likewise very amusing,
but, unfortunately, often attended with accidents. This is how they
occur:--The horses employed are so well trained to the sport, that
as soon as they perceive the stag it is no longer necessary, neither
is it possible, to guide them; they pursue the animal at the top of
their speed, and leap over every obstruction before them. The horseman
carries a lance seven or eight feet long, which he holds in readiness
to cast as soon as he thinks himself within reach of the stag. If he
misses his aim the lance sticks in the ground, and it then requires
great skill to avoid coming in contact with the opposite end, which
often wounds either the hunter or the horse. I speak not of the falls
to which one is liable from going at a furious gallop along unknown
and uneven roads. I had already enjoyed this sport during my first
sojourn at the Indian's, but, well as I acquitted myself, I was never
able to gain his permission that I should assist at a chase far more
dangerous, and which I might almost call a combat--that of the wild
buffalo. To all my questions my host had replied: "In this sport there
is much to fear: I would not expose you to the risk." He avoided, also,
taking me near that part of the plain touching upon the mountains of
Marigondon, where these animals could generally be found. However,
after repeated solicitation, I managed to obtain what I so ardently
desired; the Indian only wished to know whether I was a good horseman,
if I possessed dexterity; and when he had satisfied himself on these
two points, we started one fine morning, accompanied by nine huntsmen
and a small pack of dogs. In this part of the Philippines the buffalo
is hunted on horseback, and taken with the lasso, the Indians not being
much accustomed to the use of guns. In other parts fire-arms are used,
as I shall have occasion to recount in another part of my narrative;
but, in whichever case, there is little difference in the danger,
for the one requires good riding and great skill, the other much
presence of mind and a good gun.
The wild buffalo is quite different from the domesticated animal;
it is a terrible creature, pursuing the hunter as soon as it gets
sight of him, and, should he transfix him with its terrible horns, he
would promptly expiate his rashness. My faithful Indian was much more
anxious about my safety than his own. He objected to my taking a gun;
he had little confidence in my skill with the lasso, and preferred
that I should merely sit on horseback, unarmed and unencumbered
in my movements; accordingly I set out, with a dagger for my sole
weapon. We divided our party by threes, and rode gently about the
plains, taking care to keep at a distance from the edge of the wood,
lest we should be surprised by the animal we were seeking.
After riding for about an hour, we at last heard the baying of
the dogs, and understood that the enemy was forced from its forest
retreat. We watched with the deepest attention the spot where we
expected him to break forth. He required a great deal of coaxing
before he would show; at last there was a sudden crashing noise
in the wood; branches were broken, young trees overthrown, and a
superb buffalo showed himself, at about one hundred and fifty paces'
distance. He was of a beautiful black, and his horns were of very large
dimensions. He carried his head high, and snuffed the air as though
scenting his enemies. Suddenly starting off at a speed incredible in
so bulky an animal, he made for one of our groups, composed of three
Indians, who immediately put their horses to a gallop, and distributed
themselves in the form of a triangle. The buffalo selected one of them,
and impetuously charged him. As he did so, another of the Indians,
whom he passed in his furious career, wheeled his horse and threw the
lasso he held ready in his hand; but he was not expert, and missed
his aim. Thereupon the buffalo changed his course, and pursued the
imprudent man who had thus attacked him, and who now rode right in
our direction. A second detachment of three hunters went to meet the
brute; one of them passed near him at a gallop, and threw his lasso,
but was as unsuccessful as his comrade. Three other hunters made the
attempt; not one of them succeeded. I, as a mere spectator, looked
on with admiration at this combat--at those evolutions, flights, and
pursuits, executed with such order and courage, and with a precision
that was truly extraordinary.
I had often witnessed bull-fights, and often had I shuddered at seeing
the toreadors adopt a similar method in order to turn the furious
animal from the pursuit of the picador. But what comparison could
possibly be established between a combat in an enclosed arena and
this one in the open plain--between the most terrible of bulls and
a wild buffalo? Fiery and hot-blooded Spaniards, proud Castilians,
eager for perilous spectacles, go, hunt the buffalo in the plains
of the Marigondon! After much flight and pursuit, hard riding, and
imminent peril, a dexterous hunter encircled the animal's horns with
his lasso. The buffalo slackened his speed, and shook and tossed
his head, stopping now and then to try to get rid of the obstacle
which impeded his career. Another Indian, not less skilful than his
predecessor, threw his lasso with a like rapidity and success. The
furious beast now ploughed the earth with his horns, making the
soil fly around him, as if anxious to display his strength, and to
show what havoc he would have made with any of us who had allowed
themselves to be surprised by him. With much care and precaution the
Indians conveyed their prize into a neighbouring thicket. The hunters
uttered a shout of joy; for my part I could not repress a cry of
admiration. The animal was vanquished; it needed but a few precautions
to master him completely. I was much surprised to see the Indians
excite him with voice and gesture until he resumed the offensive,
and bounded from the ground with fury. What would have been our fate
had he succeeded in shaking off or breaking the lassos! Fortunately,
there was no danger of this. An Indian dismounted, and, with great
agility, attached to the trunk of a solid tree the two lassos that
retained the savage beast; then he gave the signal that his office
was accomplished, and retired. Two hunters approached, threw their
lassos over the animal, and fixed the ends to the ground with stakes;
and now our prey was thoroughly subdued, and reduced to immobility,
so that we could approach him with impunity. With blows of their
cutlasses the Indians hacked off his horns, which would so well have
revenged him had he been free to use them; then, with a pointed bamboo,
they pierced the membranes that separate the nostrils, and passed
through them a cane twisted in the form of a ring. In this state
of martyrdom they fastened him securely behind two tame buffaloes,
and led him to the next village.
Here the animal was killed, and the hunters divided the carcass, the
flesh of which is equal in flavour to beef. I had been fortunate in my
first essay, for such encounters with these shaggy sovereigns of the
plain do not always end so easily. A few days afterwards we renewed
the sport, which, alas! terminated with an accident of too frequent
occurrence. An Indian was surprised by a buffalo, at the moment the
animal issued from the wood. With one blow from his horns the horse
was impaled and cast to the earth, while his Indian rider fell near
to him. The inequality of the ground offered some chance of the man
escaping the notice of his redoubtable foe, until the latter, by a
sudden movement of his head, turned the horse over upon his rider,
and inflicted several blows with his horns, either of which would have
proved fatal, but from the force becoming diminished in traversing
the carcass of the horse. Fortunately some of the other sportsmen
succeeded in turning the animal, and compelled him to abandon his
victim. It was indeed time, for we found the poor Indian half dead,
and terribly gored by the horns of the buffalo. We succeeded in
stopping the blood which flowed copiously from his wounds, and
carried him to the village upon a hastily constructed litter. It was
only by considerable care and attention that his care was eventually
effected, and my friend the Indian strongly opposed my assisting at
such dangerous sport for the future.
Anna's health was now completely re-established. I no longer dreaded
the return of her fearful malady. During the space of several
months I had enjoyed all the pleasures that Tierra-Alta afforded,
and my affairs now requiring my presence at Manilla we set out for
that city. Immediately after my arrival I was compelled, much to my
regret, to resume my ordinary occupation; that is, to visit the sick
from morning to night, and from night to morning. My profession did
not well accord with my natural character, for I was not sufficiently
philosophic to witness, without pain, the sufferings I was incapable
of alleviating, and, above all, to watch the death-beds of fathers,
of mothers, and of dearly loved children. In a word, I did not act
professionally, for I never sent in my bills; my patients paid me
when and how they could. To their honour, I am bound to say that I
rarely had to complain of forgetfulness. Besides, my appointments
permitted me to live sumptuously, to have eight horses in my stables,
and to keep open house to my friends and the strangers who visited
Manilla. Soon, however, what my friends designated a coup-de-tête
caused me to lose all these advantages.
Every month I summoned a council of revision in the regiment to
which I belonged. One day I brought forward a young soldier for
rejection; all went well; but a native surgeon, long jealous of my
reputation, was nominated by the governor to make inquiry and check my
declaration. He naturally inserted in his report that I was deceived;
that the malady of which I spoke was imaginary; and he succeeded in
all this so well that the governor, enraged, condemned me in a penalty
of six piasters. The following month I again brought forward the same
soldier, as being incapable of performing his duties; a commission
of eight surgeons was nominated; their decision was unanimous in my
favour, and the soldier was accordingly discharged. This reparation
not quite satisfying me, I presented an appeal to the governor, who
would not receive it, upon the strange pretext that the decision of
the medical committee could not annul his. I confess that I did not
understand this argument. This method of reasoning, if reasoning it
was, appeared to me specious in the extreme. Why allow the innocent
to suffer, and the ignorant practitioner, who had contradicted my
opinions and deceived himself, to escape? This injustice revolted
me. I am a Breton, and I have lived with Indians--two natures which
love only right and justice. I was so much annoyed by the governor's
conduct towards me that I went to him, not to make another reclamation,
but to tender my resignation of the important offices which I held. He
received me with a specious smile, and told me that after a little
reflection I should change my mind. The poor governor, however, was
deceived, for, on leaving his palace, I went direct to the minister
of finance and purchased the property of Jala-Jala. My course was
marked out, my resolution unshakable. Although my resignation was
not yet duly accepted, I began to act as though I was completely
free. I had at the beginning informed Anna of the matter, and had
asked her if she would reside at Jala-Jala. "With you I should be
happy anywhere." Such was her answer. I was free, then, to act as I
pleased, and could go wherever my destiny might lead me. I forthwith
decided upon visiting the land that I had purchased.
For the execution of this project it was necessary to find a faithful
Indian upon whom I could rely. From among my domestics I chose the
coachman, a brave and discreet man, who was devoted to me. I took some
arms, ammunition, and provisions. At Lapindan, a small village near the
town of Santa Anna, I freighted a small boat worked by three Indians:
and one morning, without making my project known to my friends, and
without inquiring whether the governor had replaced me, I set out to
take possession of my domains, respiring the vivifying and pure air of
liberty. I ascended in my pirogue--which skimmed along the surface of
the waters like a sea-gull--the pretty river Pasig, which issues from
the lake of Bay, and traverses, on its way to the sea, the suburbs of
Manilla. The banks of this river are planted with thickets of bamboo,
and studded with pretty Indian habitations; above the large town of
Pasig it receives the waters of the river St. Mateo, at the spot where
that river unites itself with that of the Pasig. Upon the left bank
are still seen the ruins of the chapel and parsonage of St. Nicholas,
built by the Chinese, as the legend I am about to relate informs us.
At an unknown epoch, a Chinese who was once sailing in a canoe, either
upon the river Pasig, or that of St. Mateo, suddenly perceived an
alligator making for his frail bark, which it immediately capsized. On
his finding himself thus plunged in the water, the unfortunate Chinese
whose only prospect was that of making a meal for the ferocious animal,
invoked the aid of St. Nicholas. You, perhaps, would not have done
so, nor I either; and we should have been wrong, for the idea was a
good one. The good St. Nicholas listened to the cries of the unhappy
castaway, appeared to his wondering eyes, and with a stroke of a
wand, like some benevolent fairy, changed the threatening crocodile
into a rock, and the Chinese was saved. But do not imagine that the
legend ends here; the Chinese are not an ungrateful people--China
is the land of porcelain, of tea, and of gratitude. The Chinese who
had thus escaped from the cruel fate that awaited him, felt desirous
of consecrating the memory of the miracle; and, in concert with his
brethren of Manilla, he built a pretty chapel and parsonage in honour
of the good St. Nicholas. This chapel was for a long time officiated
in by a bonze; and every year, at the festival of the saint, the rich
Chinese of Manilla assembled there in thousands, to give a series of
fêtes which lasted for fifteen days. But it happened that an archbishop
of Manilla, looking upon this worship offered up by Chinese gratitude
as nothing but paganism, caused both the chapel and parsonage to be
unroofed. These harsh measures had no other result than to admit the
rain into the buildings; but the worship due to St. Nicholas still
continued, and remains to this day. Perhaps this arises from the
attempt to suppress it!
At present, at the period when this festival takes place--that is,
about the 6th of November every year--a delightful view presents
itself. During the night large vessels may be seen, upon which are
built palaces actually several stories high, terminating in pyramids,
and lit up from the base to the summit. All these lights are reflected
in the placid waters of the river, and seem to augment the number of
the stars, whose tremulous images dance on the surface of the waters:
it is an extemporised Venice! In these palaces they give themselves
up to play, to smoking opium, and to the pleasures of music. The
pévété, a species of Chinese incense, is burning everywhere and at
all times in honour of St. Nicholas, who is invoked every morning
by throwing into the river small square pieces of paper of various
colours. St. Nicholas, however, does not make his appearance; but
the fête continues for a fortnight, at the termination of which the
faithful retire till the year following.
And now that the reader is acquainted with the legend of the crocodile,
of the Chinese, and of the good St. Nicholas, I will resume my voyage.
I sailed on peaceably upon the Pasig, proceeding to the conquest of my
new dominions, and indulging in golden dreams. I gazed on the light
smoke of my cigarette, without reflecting that my dreams, my castles
in the air, must evaporate like it! I soon found myself in the lake
of Bay. The lake occupies an extent of thirty leagues, and I greatly
admired this fine sheet of water, bounded in the distance by mountains
of fantastic forms. At length I arrived at Quinaboutasan--this is a
Tagal word, which signifies "that which is perforated." Quinaboutasan
is situated on a strait, which separates the island of Talem from
the continent. We stopped for an hour in the only Indian hut there
was in the place, to cook some rice and take our repast. This hut
was inhabited by a very old fisherman and his wife. They were still,
however, able to supply their wants by fishing. At a later period I
shall have occasion to speak of old Relempago, or the "Thunderer,"
and to recount his history. When I was in the centre of the sheet of
water which separates Talem from Jala-Jala, I came in sight of the new
domain which I had so easily acquired, and I could form some opinion of
my acquisition at a glance. Jala-Jala is a long peninsula, extending
from north to south, in the middle of the lake of Bay. This peninsula
is divided longitudinally for the space of three leagues by a chain of
mountains, which diminish gradually in height till they become mere
hillocks. These mountains, are easy of access, and generally covered
on one side with forests, and on the other with fine pasturage,
abounding with waving and flexible grass, three or four feet high,
which, agitated by the breeze, resembles the waves of the sea when in
motion. It is impossible to find more splendid vegetation, which is
watered by pure and limpid springs that gush from the mountain heights,
and roll in a meandering course to join the waters of the lake. These
pasture grounds constitute Jala-Jala the greatest game preserve
in the island: wild boars, deer, buffaloes, fowls, quail, snipe,
pigeons of fifteen or twenty different varieties, parrots--in short
all sorts of birds abound in them. The lake is equally well supplied
with aquatic birds, and particularly wild ducks. Notwithstanding its
extent, the island produces neither noxious nor carnivorous animals;
the only things to be apprehended are the civet cat, which only preys
upon birds, and the monkeys, which issue in troops from the forests
to ravage the fields of maize and sugar-cane. The lake, which abounds
with excellent fish, is less favoured in this respect than the land,
for it contains numerous crocodiles and alligators, of such immense
size that in a few moments one of them can tear a horse to pieces,
and swallow it in its monstrous stomach. The accidents they occasion
are frequent and terrible, and I have seen many Indians become their
victims, as I shall subsequently relate. I ought, doubtless, to have
begun by speaking of the human beings who inhabited the forests of
Jala-Jala, but I am a sportsman, and must therefore be excused for
beginning with the game.
At the time I purchased it Jala-Jala was inhabited by some Malay
Indians, who lived in the woods, and cultivated a few spots of
ground. During the night they carried on the trade of piracy, and
gave shelter to all the banditti of the neighbouring provinces. At
Manilla this country had been described to me in the most gloomy
colours. According to the citizens of that place it would not be long
before I fell a victim to these robbers. My adventurous disposition,
however, only made all these predictions, instead of frightening me,
increase my desire to visit these men, who lived in an almost savage
state. As soon as I had purchased Jala-Jala, I had laid down a line of
conduct for myself, the object of which was to attach to me such of
the inhabitants as were the most to be dreaded. I resolved to become
the friend of these banditti, and for this purpose I knew that I must
go amongst them, not like a sordid and exacting landlord but like a
father. For the execution of my enterprise, everything depended on the
first impression that I should make on these Indians, who had become
my vassals. When I had landed, I directed my steps along the borders
of the lake, towards a little hamlet composed of a few cabins. I was
accompanied by my faithful coachman; we were both armed with a good
double-barreled gun, a brace of pistols, and a sabre. I had taken the
precaution of ascertaining from some fishermen the name of the Indian
to whom I should especially address myself. This man, who was the most
respected amongst his countrymen, was called in the Tagal language,
"Mabutiu-Tajo," which may be translated the "bravest of the brave"
he was a thorough-paced robber, a real piratical chief; a fellow that
would not hesitate to commit five or six murders in one expedition;
but he was brave, and with a primitive people bravery is a quality
before which they bow with respect. My conference with Mabutiu-Tajo
was not long. A few words were enough to win me his favour, and to
make him my faithful servant during the whole time I remained at
Jala-Jala. This is the manner in which I spoke to him: "You are a
great villain," I said; "I am the lord of Jala-Jala. I insist on your
changing your conduct; if you refuse, I shall punish you for all your
misdeeds. I have occasion for a guard: will you pledge me your honour
to become an honest man, and I will make you my lieutenant?"
After these few words, Alila (this was the name of the robber)
continued silent for a few moments, while his countenance displayed the
marks of profound reflection. I awaited his answer with considerable
anxiety and doubt as to what it would be.
"Master," he at length replied, with enthusiasm, presenting me his
hand, and bending one knee to the ground: "I shall be faithful to
you till death!"
His answer made me happy, but I did not let him see my satisfaction.
"Well and good," I replied; "to show you that I confide in you,
take this weapon, and use it only against the enemy."
I gave him a Tagal sabre, which bore the following Spanish inscription,
in large letters: "No me sacas sin rason, ni me envainas sin
honor." "Never draw me unjustly, and never sheath me with dishonour."
I translated this legend into the Tagaloc language: Alila thought it
sublime, and vowed never to deviate from it.
"When I go to Manilla," I added, "I shall procure you a handsome
uniform, with epaulettes; but you must lose no time in assembling
the soldiers you will have to command, and who are to form my
guard. Conduct me to the house of one of your comrades whom you
think most capable of obeying you as serjeant." We went some distance
from his cabin to the hut of one of his friends, who almost always
accompanied him in his piratical excursions. A few words like those
I had spoken to my future lieutenant produced a similar influence
on his comrade, and induced him to accept the rank I offered him. We
occupied the day in recruiting amongst the various huts, and in the
evening we had a guard of ten effective men, infantry and cavalry,
a number I did not wish to exceed.
Of these I took the command as captain; and thus, as will be seen,
I went promptly to work. The following day I assembled the population
of the peninsula, and, surrounded by my extempore guard, I chose a
situation where I wished to found a village, and a site on which
I wished my own habitation to be built. I ordered the heads of
families to construct their huts on an allotment which I indicated,
and I directed my lieutenant to employ as many hands as possible, to
quarry stones, to cut down timber for the wood-work, and to prepare
everything in short for my house. Having issued my orders, I departed
for Manilla, promising to return soon. When I reached home, I found
them in a state of inquietude, for, as nothing had been heard of me,
it was thought I had fallen a prey to the crocodiles, or a victim to
the pirates. The recital of my journey, and the description I gave of
Jala-Jala, far from disgusting my wife with the idea I had conceived
of inhabiting that country, made her, on the contrary, impatient to
visit our estate, and to establish herself there. It was, however, a
farewell she was taking of the capital--of its fêtes, its assemblies,
and its pleasures.
I paid a visit to the governor. My resignation had been considered as
null and void: he had preserved all my places for me. I was touched
by this goodness. I sincerely thanked him, but told him that I was
really in earnest, that my resolution was irrevocably fixed, and that
he might otherwise dispose of my employments. I added, that I only
asked him for one favour, that of commanding all the local gendarmerie
of the province of La Lagune, with the privilege of having a personal
guard, which I would form myself. This favour was instantly granted,
and a few days after I received my commission. It was not ambition
that suggested to me the idea of asking for this important post,
but sound reason. My object was to establish an authority for myself
at Jala-Jala, and to have in my own hands the power of punishing my
Indians, without recurring to the justice of the alcaid, who lived
ten leagues away from my dominions.
Wishing to be comfortably settled in my new residence, I drew
out a plan of my house. It consisted of a first-floor, with five
bed-chambers, a large hall, a spacious drawing-room, a terrace, and
bathing rooms. I agreed with a master-mason and a master carpenter
for the construction of it; and having obtained arms and uniforms
for my guard, I set out again. On arriving I was received with joy
by my Indians. My lieutenant had punctually executed my orders. A
great quantity of material was prepared, and several Indian huts were
already built.
This activity gave me pleasure, as it evinced a desire for my
gratification. I immediately set my labourers to work, ordering them
to clear away the surrounding wood, and I soon had the pleasure of
laying the foundation of my residence; I then went to Manilla. The
works lasted for eight months, during which time I passed backwards and
forwards continually from Manilla to Jala-Jala, and from Jala-Jala to
Manilla. I had some trouble, but I was well repaid for it when I saw
a village rise from the earth. My Indians constructed their huts on
the places I had indicated; they had reserved a site for a church,
and, until this should be built, mass was to be celebrated in the
vestibule of my mansion. At length, after many journeys to and fro,
which gave great uneasiness to my wife, I was enabled to inform her
that the castle of Jala-Jala was ready to receive its mistress. This
was a pleasing piece of intelligence, for we were soon to be no
longer separated.
I quickly sold my horses, my carriages, and useless furniture, and
freighted a vessel to convey to Jala-Jala all that I required. Then,
having taken leave of my friends, I quitted Manilla, with the
intention of not returning to it but through absolute necessity. Our
journey was prosperous, and on our arrival, we found my Indians
on the shore, hailing with cries of joy the welcome advent of the
"Queen of Jala-Jala," for it was thus they called my wife.
We devoted the first days after our arrival to installing ourselves
in our new residence, which it was necessary to furnish, and make both
useful and agreeable; this we accordingly effected. And now that years
have elapsed, and I am far removed from that period of independence
and perfect liberty, I reflect on the strangeness of my destiny. My
wife and I were the only white and civilised persons in the midst of a
bronzed and almost savage population, and yet I felt no apprehension. I
relied on my arms, on my self-possession, and on the fidelity of my
guards. Anna was only aware of a part of the dangers we incurred,
and her confidence in me was so great, that when by my side she knew
not what it was to fear. When I was well established in my house, I
undertook a difficult and dangerous task, that of establishing order
amongst my Indians, and organizing my little town according to the
custom of the Philippine islands. The Spanish laws, with reference to
the Indians, are altogether patriarchal. Every township is erected,
so to speak, into a little republic. Every year a chief is elected,
dependant for affairs of importance on the governor of the province,
which latter, in his turn, depends on the governor of the Philippine
islands. I confess that I have always considered the mode of government
peculiar to the Philippines as the most convenient and best adapted
for civilization. The Spaniards, at the period of their conquest,
found it in full operation in the isle of Luzon.
I shall here enter into some details. Every Indian population is
divided into two classes, the noble and the popular. The first is
composed of all Indians who are, or have been cabessas de barangay,
that is to say, collectors of taxes, which situation is honorary. The
taxes established by the Spaniards are personal. Every Indian of more
than twenty-one years of age pays, in four instalments, the annual sum
of three francs; which tax is the same to the rich and the poor. At a
certain period of the year, twelve of the cabessas de barangay become
electors, and assembling together with some of the old inhabitants of
the township, they elect, by ballot, three of their number, whose names
are forwarded to the governor of the Philippines. The latter chooses
from amongst these names whichever he pleases, and confides to him
for one year the functions of gobernadorcillo, or deputy-governor. To
distinguish him from the other Indians, the deputy-governor bears
a gold-headed cane, with which he has a right to strike such of his
fellow-citizens as may have committed slight faults. His functions
partake at the same time of those of mayor, justice of the peace,
and examining magistrate. He watches over good order and public
tranquillity; he decides, without appeal, suits and differences of
no higher importance than sixteen piasters (£3 6s. 8d.). He also
institutes criminal suits of high importance, but there his power
ceases. The documents connected with these suits are sent by him to
the governor of the province, who, in his turn, transmits them to
the royal court of Manilla. The court gives judgment, and the alcaid
carries it into execution. When the election for deputy-governor takes
place, the assembled electors choose all the officials who are to act
under him. These are alguazils, whose number is proportioned to the
population; two witnesses, or assistants, who are charged with the
confirmation of the acts of the deputy-governor--for without their
presence and sanction his acts would be considered null and void;
a jouès de palma, or palm judge, with the functions of rural guard;
a vaccinator, bound to be always furnished with vaccine matter, for
newborn children; and a schoolmaster, charged with public instruction;
finally, a sort of gendarmerie, to watch banditti and the state of
the roads within the precincts of the commune and the neighbouring
lands. Men, grown up, and without employment, form a civic guard, who
watch over the safety of the village. This guard indicates the hours
of the night, by blows struck upon a large piece of hollow wood. There
is in each town a parochial house, which is called Casa Réal, where
the deputy-governor resides. He is bound to afford hospitality to all
travellers who pass through the town, which hospitality is like that
of the Scotch mountaineers--it is given, but never sold. During two
or three days, the traveller has a right to lodging, in which he is
supplied with a mat, a pillow, salt, vinegar, wood, cooking vessels,
and--paying for the same--all descriptions of food necessary for
his subsistence. If, on his departure, he should even require horses
and guides to continue his journey, they are procured for him. With
respect to the prices of provisions, in order to prevent the abuses
so frequent amongst us, a large placard is fixed up in every Casa
Réal, containing a tariff of the market prices of meat, poultry,
fish, fruit, &c. In no case whatever can the deputy-governor exact
any remuneration for the trouble he is at.
Such were the measures that I wished to adopt, and which, it is true,
possessed advantages and disadvantages. The greatest inconvenience
attending them was undoubtedly that of placing myself in a state
of dependence upon the deputy-governor, whose functions gave him a
certain right, for I was his administrator. It is true that my rank,
as commandant of all the gendarmerie of the province, shielded me from
any injustice that might be contemplated against me. I knew very well
that, beyond military service, I could inflict no punishment on my men
without the intervention of the deputy-governor; but I had sufficiently
studied the Indian character to know that I could only rule it by the
most perfect justice and a well-understood severity. But whatever were
the difficulties I foresaw, without any apprehension of the troubles
and dangers of every description that I should have to surmount,
I proceeded straightforward towards the object I had traced out for
myself. The road was sterile and encumbered with rocks; but I entered
upon it with courage, and I succeeded in obtaining over the Indians
such an influence, that they ultimately obeyed my voice as they would
that of a parent. The character of the Tagaloc is extremely difficult
to define. Lavater and Gall would have been very much embarrassed by
it; for both physiognomy and craniology would be, perhaps, equally
at a loss amongst the Philippines.
The natural disposition of the Tagal Indian is a mixture of vices
and virtues, of good and bad qualities. A worthy priest has said,
when speaking of them: "They are great children and must be treated
as if they were little ones."
It is really curious to trace, and still more so to read, the moral
portrait of a native of the Philippine islands. The Indian keeps his
word, and yet--will it be believed?--he is a liar. Anger he holds in
horror, he compares it to madness; and even prefers drunkenness, which,
however, he despises. He will not hesitate to use the dagger to avenge
himself for injustice; but what he can least submit to is an insult,
even when merited. When he has committed a fault, he may be punished
with a flogging; this he receives without a murmur, but he cannot brook
an insult. He is brave, generous, and a fatalist. The profession of a
robber, which he willingly exercises, is agreeable to him, on account
of the life of liberty and adventure it affords, and not because it may
lead to riches. Generally speaking, the Tagalocs are good fathers and
good husbands, both these qualities being inherent. Horribly jealous
of their wives, but not in the least of the honour of their daughters;
and it matters little if the women they marry have committed errors
previous to their union. They never ask for a dowry, they themselves
provide it, and make presents to the parents of their brides. They
dislike cowards, but willingly attach themselves to the man who is
brave enough to face danger. Play is their ruling passion, and they
delight in the combats of animals, especially in cock-fighting. This
is a brief compendium of the character of the people I was about
to govern. My first care was to become master of myself. I made a
firm resolution never to allow a gesture of impatience to escape me,
in their presence, even in the most critical moments, and to preserve
at all times unshaken calmness and sang-froid. I soon learned that it
was dangerous to listen to the communications that were made to me,
which might lead me to the commission of injustice, as had already
happened under the following circumstances.
Two Indians came one day to lodge a complaint against one of their
comrades, living at some leagues' distance from Jala-Jala. These
informers accused him of having stolen cattle. After I had heard all
they had to say, I set off with my guard to seize upon the accused, and
brought him to my residence. There I endeavoured to make him confess
his crime, but he denied it, and said he was innocent. It was in vain
I promised him if he would tell the truth to grant him his pardon, for
he persisted even in the presence of his accusers. Persuaded, however,
that he was telling me falsehoods, and disgusted with his obstinacy
in denying a fact which had been sworn to me, with every appearance
of sincerity, I ordered him to be tied upon a bench, and receive a
dozen strokes of a whip. My orders were executed; but the culprit
denied the charge, as he had done before. This dogged perseverance
irritated me, and I caused another correction to be administered to him
the same as the first. The unfortunate man bore his punishment with
unshaken courage: but in the midst of his sufferings he exclaimed,
in penetrating accents: "Oh! sir, I swear to you that I am innocent;
but, as you will not believe me, take me into your house. I will be a
faithful servant, and you will soon have proofs that I am the victim of
an infamous calumny." These words affected me. I reflected that this
unfortunate man was, perhaps, not guilty after all. I began to fear I
had been deceived, and had unknowingly committed an act of injustice. I
felt that private enmity might have led these two witnesses to make
a false declaration, and thus induce me to punish an innocent man. I
ordered him to be untied. "The proof you demand," I said to him, "is
easily tried. If you are an honest man, I shall be a father to you;
but if you deceive me, do not expect any pity from me. From this moment
you shall be one of my guard; my lieutenant will provide you with
arms." He thanked me earnestly, and his countenance lit up with sudden
joy. He was installed in my guard. Oh! human justice! how fragile,
and how often unintelligible art thou! Some time after this event,
I learnt that Bazilio de la Cruz--this was the name of the man--was
innocent. The two wretches who had denounced him had fled, to avoid
the chastisement they merited. Bazilio kept his promise, and during my
residence at Jala-Jala he served me faithfully and without malice or
ill-will. This fact made a lively impression on me; and I vowed that
for the future I would inflict no punishment without being sure of
the truth of the charge alleged. I have religiously kept this vow--at
least I think so; for I have never since ordered a single application
of the whip until after the culprit had confessed his crime.
I have before said that I had expressed a wish to have a church
built in my village, not only from a religious feeling, but as a
means of civilisation: I was particularly desirous of having a curate
at Jala-Jala. With this view I requested Monseigneur Hilarion, the
archbishop, whose physician I had been, and with whom I was on terms of
friendship, to send me a clergyman of my acquaintance, and who was at
that time unemployed. I had, however, much difficulty in obtaining this
nomination. "Father Miguel de San-Francisco," the archbishop replied,
"is a violent man, and very headstrong: you will never be able to live
with him." I persisted, however; and as perseverance always produces
some result, I at length succeeded in having him appointed curate
at Jala-Jala. Father Miguel was of Japanese and Malay descent. He
was young, strong, brave, and very capable of assisting me in the
difficult circumstances that might occur; as, for example, if it were
necessary to defend ourselves against banditti. Indeed I must say that,
in spite of the anticipations, and I may add the prejudices, of my
honourable friend the archbishop, I kept him with me during the whole
time of my abode at Jala-Jala, and never had the slightest difference
with him. I can only reproach him with one thing to be regretted,
which is that he did not preach sufficiently to his flock. He gave
them only one sermon annually, and then his discourse was always the
same, and divided into two parts: the first was in Spanish, for our
edification, and the second in Tagaloc, for the Indians. Ah! how many
men have I since met with who might well imitate the worthy curate
of Jala-Jala! To the observations I sometimes made he would reply:
"Let me follow my own course, and fear nothing. So many words are not
necessary to make a good Christian." Perhaps he was right. Since my
departure from the place the good priest is dead, bearing with him
to the tomb the regret of all his parishioners.
As may be seen, I was at the beginning of my labour of
civilisation. Anna assisted me with all her heart, and with all her
intelligence, and no fatigue disheartened her. She taught the young
girls to love that virtue which she practised so well herself. She
furnished them with clothes, for at this period the young girls from
ten to twelve years of age were still as naked as savages. Father
Miguel de San Francisco was charged with the mission more especially
belonging to his sacred character. The more readily to disseminate
through the colony that instruction which is the beneficent parent of
civilisation, the young people were divided into squads of four at a
time, and went by turns to pass a fortnight at the parsonage. There
they learned a little Spanish, and were moulded to the customs of
a world which had been hitherto unknown to them. I superintended
everything in general. I occupied myself in works of agriculture,
and giving proper instruction to the shepherds who kept the flocks I
had purchased to make use of my pasturage. I was also the mediator of
all the differences which arose amongst my colonists. They preferred
rather to apply to me than to the deputy-governor; and I succeeded
at last in obtaining over them the influence I desired. One portion
of my time, and this was not the least busy, was occupied in driving
the banditti from my residence and its vicinity. Sometimes I set
off for this purpose before daybreak and did not return until night;
and then I always found my wife good, affectionate, and devoted to
me: her reception repaid me for the labours of the day. Oh, felicity
almost perfect! I have never forgotten you! Happy period! which has
left indelible traces in my memory, you are always present to my
thoughts! I have grown old, but my heart has ever continued young in
recollecting you.
In our long chit-chat of an evening we recounted to each other the
labours of the day, and everything that occurred to us. This was
the season of sweet mutual confidence. Hours too soon vanished,
alas! Fugitive moments, you will never return! It was also the time
when I gave audience; real bed of justice, imitated from St. Louis,
and thrown open to my subjects. The door of my mansion admitted all
the Indians who had anything to communicate to me. Seated with my
wife at a great round table, I listened, as I took my tea, to all the
requests that were made to me, all the claims that were laid before
me. It was during these audiences that I issued my sentences. My guards
brought the culprits before me, and, without departing from my ordinary
calmness, I admonished them for the faults they had committed; but I
always recollected the error I bad committed in my sentence against
poor Bazilio, and I was, therefore, very circumspect. I first listened
to the witnesses; but I never condemned until I heard the culprit say:
"What would you have, sir? It was my destiny. I could not prevent
myself from doing what I did."
"Every fault merits chastisement," I would reply; "but choose between
the deputy-governor and me--by which do you wish to be chastised?"
The reply was always the same.
"Kill me, if you will, master; but do not give me up to my own
countrymen."
I awarded the punishment, and it was inflicted by my guards. When this
was over, I presented the Indian with a cigar, as a token of pardon,
I uttered a few kind words to him to induce him not to commit any fresh
faults, and he went away without hearing any malice to his judge. I
had, perhaps, been severe, but I had been just; that was enough. The
order and discipline I had established were a great support for me
in the minds of the Indians; they gave me a positive influence over
them. My calmness, my firmness, and my justice--those three great
qualities without which no government is possible--easily satisfied
these natures, still untrained and unsophisticated. But one thing,
however, disquieted them. Was I brave? This is what they were ignorant
of, and frequently asked of one another. They spurned the idea of being
commanded by a man who might not be intrepid in the face of danger. I
had indeed made several expeditions against banditti, but they had
produced no result, and would not serve as proofs of my bravery
in the eyes of the Indians. I very well knew that they would form
their definite opinion upon me from my conduct in the first perilous
extremity we should encounter together. I was therefore determined
to undertake anything, that I might show myself at least equal to
the best and bravest of all my Indians: everything was comprised in
that. I felt the imperious necessity of showing myself not only equal
but superior in the struggle, by preserving my self-possession.
An opportunity at length offered.
The Indians look upon buffalo hunting as the most dangerous of all
their wild sports, and my guards often said they would rather stand
naked at twenty paces from the muzzle of a carbine than at the same
distance from a wild buffalo. The difference they said is this, that
the ball of a carbine may only wound, but the horn of a buffalo is
sure to kill. I took advantage of the terror they had of this animal,
and one day declared, with the utmost possible coolness, my intention
to hunt one. They then made use of all their eloquence to turn me from
my project; they gave me a very picturesque, but a very discouraging
description of the dangers and difficulties I should have to encounter,
especially as I was not accustomed to that sort of warfare,--and such
a combat is, in fact, a struggle for life or death. But I would listen
to nothing. I had spoken the word: I would not discuss the point,
and I looked upon all their counsels as null and void. My decision
was right; for these kind counsels, these frightful pictures of the
dangers I was about to incur, had no other object than to entrap
me; they had concerted amongst themselves to judge of my courage by
my acceptance or refusal of the combat. My only answer was to give
orders for the hunt. I took great care that my wife should not be
informed of our excursion, and I set off, accompanied by half a score
Indians, nearly all of whom were armed with muskets. Buffalo hunting
is different in the mountains from what it is in the plains. On the
plain one only requires a good horse, with address and agility in
throwing the lasso; but in the mountains it requires something more:
and, above all, the most extraordinary coolness and self-possession
are essentially necessary.
This is the way in which it is done: the hunter takes a gun on which
he can depend, and places himself in such a position that the buffalo
must see him on issuing from the wood. The moment the animal sees
him, he rushes on him with the utmost velocity, breaking, rending,
and trampling under foot every obstacle to the fury of his charge;
he rushes on as if about to crush the enemy, then stops within some
paces for a few seconds, and presents his sharp and threatening
horns. This is the moment that the hunter should fire, and lodge his
ball in the forehead of the foe. If unfortunately his gun misses fire,
or if his coolness fails him, if his hand trembles, or his aim is bad,
he is lost--Providence alone can save him! This was, perhaps, the
fate that awaited me; but I was resolved to tempt this cruel proof,
and I went forward with intrepidity--perhaps to death. We at length
arrived on the skirts of an extensive wood, in which we felt assured
there were buffaloes, and here we halted. I was sure of my gun,
and I conceived I was equally so of my self-possession; I therefore
determined that the hunt should be conducted as if I had been a simple
Indian. I placed myself at the spot where it was fully expected that
the animal would come out, and I forbade anyone to remain near me. I
ordered everyone to his proper place, and I then stood alone on the
open ground, about two hundred paces from the borders of the forest,
to await an enemy that would show me no mercy if I missed him. It is,
I confess, a solemn moment, when one stands between life and death by
the more or less certainty of a gun, or the greater or less steadiness
of the arm that holds it. I was, however, perfectly tranquil. When
all were at their posts two hunters entered the forest, having
first thrown off some of their clothing, the more readily to climb
up trees in case of danger: they had no other arms than a cutlass,
and were accompanied by the dogs. A dead silence continued for
upwards of half-an-hour; everyone listening for the slightest noise,
but nothing was heard. The buffalo continues a long time frequently
without betraying his lair; but at the end of the half-hour we heard
the repeated barking of the dogs, and the shouts of the hunters:
the animal was aroused from his cover. He defended himself for some
time against the dogs, till at length, becoming furious, he sprang
forward with a bound towards the skirts of the forest. In a few minutes
after, I heard the crashing of the branches and the young trees that
the buffalo rent asunder in the terrible velocity of his course. His
advance could only be compared to the galloping of several horses--to
the rushing noise of some frightful monster--or, I might almost say,
of some furious and diabolical being. Down he came like an avalanche;
and at this moment, I confess, I experienced such lively emotions that
my heart beat with extraordinary rapidity. Was it not death--aye,
and frightful death--that was perhaps approaching me? Suddenly the
buffalo made his appearance. He stopped for an instant; gazed, as if
frightened, around him; sniffed up the air of the plain which extended
in the distance; then, with distended nostrils, head bent, and horns
projected, he rushed towards me, terrible and furious. The moment was
come. If I had longed for an opportunity of showing off my courage
and sang-froid to the Indians, these two precious qualities were now
put to a severe test. There I was, face to face with the peril I had
courted; the dilemma was one of the most decided and unavoidable that
could possibly be: conqueror or conquered, there must be a victim--the
buffalo or me, and we were both equally disposed to defend ourselves.
It would be difficult for me to state exactly what was passing in my
mind, during the brief period which the buffalo took in clearing the
distance that lay between us. My heart, so vividly agitated while the
ferocious animal was rushing through the forest, now beat no longer. My
eyes were fixed upon him, my gaze was rivetted on his forehead in such
a manner that I could see nothing else. My mind was concentrated on
one object alone, in which I was so absorbed, that I could actually
hear nothing, though the dogs were still barking at a short distance,
as they followed their prey. At length, the buffalo lowered his head,
presented his sharp-pointed horns, stopped for a moment, then, with
a sudden plunge, he rushed upon me, and I fired. My ball pierced his
skull, and I was half saved. The animal fell within a pace of me, like
a mass of rock, so loud, and so heavy. I planted my foot between his
two horns, and was preparing to fire my second barrel, when a long and
hollow bellowing indicated that my victory was complete--the monster
had breathed his last sigh. My Indians then came up. Their joy was
succeeded by admiration; they were in ecstasy; I was everything they
could wish for. All their doubts had vanished with the smoke of my
rifle, when, with steady aim, I had shot the buffalo. I was brave;
I had won their confidence; I had stood the test. My victim was cut
up in pieces, and borne in triumph to the village. As the victor,
I took his horns; they were six feet long. I have since deposited
them in the museum of Nantes. The Indians, those imaginative beings,
called me thenceforward, "Malamit Oulou," Tagal words, which signify
"cool head."
I must confess, without vanity, that the proof to which my Indians had
subjected me was sufficiently serious to give them a decided opinion
of my courage, and to satisfy them that a Frenchman was as brave as
themselves. The habit I subsequently acquired of hunting convinced
me that but little danger is really incurred when the weapon is a
good one, and the self-possession does not fail. Once every month I
indulged in this exercise, which imparts such lively sensations; and
I recognised the facility with which one may lodge a ball in a plain
surface, a few inches in diameter, and at a few paces distance. But
it is no less true that our first huntings were very dangerous. Once
only I permitted a Spaniard named Ocampo to accompany us. I had taken
the precaution to station two Indians at his side; but when I quitted
them to take up my own post, he imprudently sent them away, and soon
after, the buffalo started from the wood, and rushed upon him. He
fired both his barrels, and missed the animal; we heard the reports
and ran towards him, but it was too late! Ocampo was no longer in
existence. The buffalo had gored him through and through, and his body
was ploughed up with frightful wounds. But no such accident ever took
place again; for when strangers came to witness our buffalo hunts,
I made them get up in a tree, or on the crest of a mountain, where
they might remain as spectators of the combat, without taking any
part in it, or being exposed to any danger.
And now that I have described buffalo hunting in the mountains,
I must return to my colonising labours.