Description of Manilla--The two Towns--Gaiety of
Binondoc--Dances--Gaming--Beauty of the Women--Their Fascinating
Costume--Male Costume--The Military Town--Personal Adventures--My
First Patient--His Generous Confidence--Commencement of my
Practice--The Artificial Eye--Brilliant Success--The Charming
Widow--Auspicious Introduction--My Marriage--Treachery and Fate
of Iturbide--Our Loss of Fortune--Return to France postponed.
Manilla and its suburbs contain a population of about one hundred and
fifty thousand souls, of which Spaniards and Creoles hardly constitute
the tenth part; the remainder is composed of Tagalocs, or Indians,
Métis, and Chinese. The city is divided into two sections--the military
and the mercantile--the latter of which is the suburb. The former,
surrounded by lofty walls, is bounded by the sea on one side, and
upon another by an extensive plain, where the troops are exercised,
and where of an evening the indolent Creoles, lazily extended
in their carriages, repair to exhibit their elegant dresses and
to inhale the sea-breezes. This public promenade--where intrepid
horsemen and horsewomen, and European vehicles, cross each other in
every direction--may be styled the Champs-Elysées, or the Hyde Park,
of the Indian Archipelago. On a third side, the military town is
separated from the trading town by the river Pasig, upon which are
seen all the day boats laden with merchandize, and charming gondolas
conveying idlers to different parts of the suburbs, or to visit the
ships in the bay.
The military town communicates by the bridge of Binondoc with the
mercantile town, inhabited principally by the Spaniards engaged in
public affairs; its aspect is dull and monotonous; all the streets,
perfectly straight, are bordered by wide granite footpaths. In general,
the highways are macadamised, and kept in good condition. Such is
the effeminacy of the people, they could not endure the noise of
carriages upon pavement. The houses--large and spacious, palaces in
appearance--are built in a particular manner, calculated to withstand
the earthquakes and hurricanes so frequent in this part of the
world. They have all one story, with a ground-floor; the upper part,
generally occupied by the family, is surrounded by a wide gallery,
opened or shut by means of large sliding panels, the panes of which
are thin mother-of-pearl. The mother-of-pearl permits the passage
of light to the apartments, and excludes the heat of the sun. In the
military town are all the monasteries and convents, the archbishopric,
the courts of justice, the custom-house, the hospital, the governor's
palace, and the citadel, which overlooks both towns. There are three
principal entrances to Manilla--Puerta Santa Lucia, Puerto Réal,
and Puerta Parian.
At one o'clock the drawbridges are raised, and the gates pitilessly
closed, when the tardy resident must seek his night's lodging in
the suburb, or mercantile town, called Binondoc. This portion of
Manilla wears a much gayer and more lively aspect than the military
section. There is less regularity in the streets, and the buildings
are not so fine as those in what may be called Manilla proper; but in
Binondoc all is movement, all is life. Numerous canals, crowded with
pirogues, gondolas, and boats of various kinds, intersect the suburb,
where reside the rich merchants--Spanish, English, Indian, Chinese,
and Métis. The newest and most elegant houses are built upon the banks
of the river Pasig. Simple in exterior, they contain the most costly
inventions of English and Indian luxury. Precious vases from China,
Japan ware, gold, silver, and rich silks, dazzle the eyes on entering
these unpretending habitations. Each house has a landing-place from
the river, and little bamboo palaces, serving as bathing-houses, to
which the residents resort several times daily, to relieve the fatigue
caused by the intense heat of the climate. The cigar manufactory,
which affords employment continually to from fifteen to twenty
thousand workmen and other assistants, is situated in Binondoc; also
the Chinese custom-house, and all the large working establishments
of Manilla. During the day, the Spanish ladies, richly dressed in
the transparent muslins of India and China, lounge about from store
to store, and sorely test the patience of the Chinese salesman, who
unfolds uncomplainingly, and without showing the least ill-humour,
thousands of pieces of goods before his customers, which are frequently
examined simply for amusement, and not half a yard purchased. The
balls and entertainments, given by the half-breeds of Binondoc to their
friends, are celebrated throughout the Philippines. The quadrilles of
Europe are succeeded by the dances of India, and while the young people
execute the fandango, the bolero, the cachucha, or the lascivious
movements of the bayadères, the enterprising half-breed, the indolent
Spaniard, and the sedate Chinese, retire to the gaming saloons, to
try their fortune at cards and dice. The passion for play is carried
to such an extent, that the traders lose or gain in one night sums
of 50,000 piasters (£10,000 sterling). The half-breeds, Indians, and
Chinese, have also a great passion for cock-fighting; these combats
take place in a large arena. I have seen £1,500 betted upon a cock
which had cost £150; in a few minutes this costly champion fell,
struck dead by his antagonist. In fine, if Binondoc be exclusively
the city of pleasure, luxury, and activity, it is also that of
amorous intrigues and gallant adventures. In the evening, Spaniards,
English, and French, go to the promenades to ogle the beautiful
and facile half-breed women, whose transparent robes reveal their
splendid figures. That which distinguishes the female half-breeds
(Spanish-Tagals, or Chinese-Tagals) is a singularly intelligent
and expressive physiognomy. Their hair, drawn back from the face,
and sustained by long golden pins, is of marvellous luxuriance. They
wear upon the head a kerchief, transparent like a veil, made of the
pine fibre, finer than our finest cambric; the neck is ornamented
by a string of large coral beads, fastened by a gold medallion. A
transparent chemisette, of the same stuff as the head-dress, descends
as far as the waist, covering, but not concealing, a bosom that has
never been imprisoned in stays. Below, and two or three inches from
the edge of the chemisette, is attached a variously coloured petticoat
of very bright hues. Over this garment, a large and costly silk sash
closely encircles the figure, and shows its outline from the waist
to the knee. The small and white feet, always naked, are thrust into
embroidered slippers, which cover but the extremities. Nothing can
be more charming, coquettish, and fascinating, than this costume,
which excites in the highest degree the admiration of strangers. The
half-breed and Chinese Tagals know so well the effect it produces on
the Europeans, that nothing would induce them to alter it.
While on the subject of dress, that of the men is also worthy of
remark. The Indian and the half-breed wear upon the head a large
straw hat, black or white, or a sort of Chinese covering, called a
salacote; upon the shoulders, the pine fibre kerchief embroidered;
and round the neck, a rosary of coral beads; their shirts are also
made from the fibres of the pine, or of vegetable silk; trousers of
coloured silk, with embroidery near the bottom, and a girdle of red
China crape, complete their costume. The feet, without stockings,
are covered with European shoes.
The military town, so quiet during the day, assumes a more lively
appearance towards the evening, when the inhabitants ride out in
their very magnificent carriages, which are invariably conducted
by postilions; they then mix with the walking population of
Binondoc. Afterwards visits, balls, and the more intimate réunions
take place. At the latter they talk, smoke the cigars of Manilla,
and chew the betel, [2] drink glasses of iced eau sucrée, and eat
innumerable sweetmeats; towards midnight those guests retire who do
not stay supper with the family, which is always served luxuriously,
and generally prolonged until two o'clock in the morning. Such is the
life spent by the wealthy classes under these skies so favoured by
Heaven. But there exists, as in Europe, and even to a greater extent,
the most abject misery, of which I shall speak hereafter, throwing
a shade over this brilliant picture.
I shall now return to my personal adventures. While I spoke with
the Indians upon the shore, I had noticed a young European standing
not many paces from me; I again met him on the road I took towards
Manilla, and I thought I would address him. This young man was a
surgeon, about returning to Europe. I partly told him the plans I
wished to form, and asked him for some information respecting the city
where I purposed locating myself. He readily satisfied my inquiries,
and encouraged me in the resolution to exercise my profession in
the Philippine Islands. He had himself, he said, conceived the same
project, but family affairs obliged him to return to his country. I
did not conceal the misfortune of my position, and observed that it
would be almost impossible to pay visits in the costume, worse than
plain, which I then wore.
"That is of no consequence," he replied; "I have all you would
require: a coat almost new, and six capital lancets. I will sell you
these things for their cost price in France; they will be a great
bargain." The affair was soon concluded. He took me to his hotel,
and I shortly left it encased in a garment sufficiently good, but
much too large and too long for me. Nevertheless, it was some time
since I had seen myself so well clad, and I could not help admiring
my new acquisition.
I had hidden my poor little white jacket in my hat, and I strode
along the causeway of Manilla more proud than Artaban himself. I was
the owner of a coat and six lancets; but there remained, for all my
fortune, the sum of one dollar only; this consideration slightly
tempered the joy that I felt in gazing on my brilliant costume. I
thought of where I could pass the night, and subsist on the morrow
and the following days, if the sick were not ready for me.
Reflecting thus I slowly wandered from Binondoc to the military town,
and from the military town back to Binondoc,--when, suddenly, a bright
idea shot across my brain. At Cavite I had heard spoken of a Spanish
captain, by name Don Juan Porras, whom an accident had rendered almost
blind. I resolved to seek him, and offer my services; it remained but
to find his residence. I addressed a hundred persons, but each replied
that he did not know, and passed on his way. An Indian who kept a
small shop, and to whom I spoke, relieved my trouble: "If the senor
is a captain," he said, "your excellency would obtain his address at
the first barrack on your road." I thanked him, and eagerly followed
his counsel. At the infantry barracks, where I presented myself, the
officer on duty sent a soldier to guide me to the captain's dwelling:
it was time, the night had already fallen. Don Juan Porras was an
Andalusian, a good man, and of an extremely cheerful disposition. I
found him with his head wrapped in a Madras handkerchief, busied in
completely covering his eyes with two enormous poultices.
"Senor Captain," I said, "I am a physician, and a skilful oculist. I
have come hither to take care of you, and I am fully convinced that
I shall cure you."
"Basta" (enough is said), was his answer; "all the physicians in
Manilla are asses."
This more than sceptical reply did not discourage me. I resolved
to turn it to account. "My opinion is precisely the same as yours,"
I promptly answered; "and it is because I am strongly convinced of
the ignorance of the native doctors, that I have made up my mind to
come and practise in the Philippines."
"Of what nation are you, sir?"
"I am a Frenchman."
"A French physician!" cried Don Juan; "Ah! that is quite another
matter. I ask your pardon for having spoken so irreverently of men of
your profession. A French physician! I put myself entirely into your
hands. Take my eyes, Senor Medico, and do what you will with them!"
The conversation was taking a favourable turn: I hastened to broach
the principal question:
"Your eyes are very bad, Senor Captain," said I; "to accomplish a
speedy cure, it is absolutely necessary that I should never quit you
for a moment."
"Would you consent to come and pass some time with me, doctor?"
Here was the principal consideration settled.
"I consent," replied I, "but on one condition; namely, that I shall
pay you for my board and lodging."
"That shall not part us--you are free to do so," said the worthy man;
"and so the matter is settled. I have a nice room, and a good bed,
all ready; there is nothing to do but to send for your baggage. I
will call my servant."
The terrible word, "baggage," sounded in my ears like a knell. I cast
a melancholy look at the crown of my hat--my only portmanteau--within
which were deposited all my clothes--consisting of my little white
jacket; and I feared Don Juan would take me for some runaway sailor
trying to dupe him. There was no retreat; so I mustered my courage,
and briefly related my sad position, adding that I could not pay
for my board and lodging until the end of the month--if I was so
fortunate as to find patients. Don Juan Porras listened to me very
quietly. When my tale was told he burst into a loud laugh, which made
me shiver from head to foot.
"Well," cried he, "I am well pleased it should be so; you are poor;
you will have more time to devote to my malady, and a greater interest
in curing me. What think you of the syllogism?"
"It is excellent, Senor Captain, and before long you will find, I hope,
that I am not the man to compromise so distinguished a logician as
yourself. To-morrow morning I will examine your eyes, and I will not
leave you till I have radically cured them."
We talked for some time longer in this joyous strain, after which
I retired to my chamber, where the most delightful dreams visited
my pillow.
The next day I rose early, put on my doctoral coat, and entered the
chamber of my host. I examined his eyes; they were in a dreadful
state. The sight of one was not only destroyed, but threatened the
life of the sufferer. A cancer had formed, and the enormous size it
had attained rendered the result of an operation doubtful. The left
eye contained many fibres, but there was hope of saving it. I frankly
acquainted Don Juan with my fears and hopes, and insisted upon the
entire removal of the right eye. The Captain, at first astonished,
decided courageously upon submitting to the operation, which I
accomplished on the following day with complete success. Shortly
afterwards the inflammatory symptoms disappeared, and I could assure
my host of a safe recovery. I then bestowed all my attention upon
the left eye. I desired the more ardently to restore to Don Juan his
vision, from the good effect I was convinced his case would produce
at Manilla. For me it would be fortune and reputation. Besides, I had
already acquired, in the few days, some slight patronage, and was in a
position to pay for my board and lodging at the end of the month. After
six weeks' careful treatment Don Juan was perfectly cured, and could
use his eye as well as he did previous to his accident. Nevertheless,
to my great regret, the Captain still continued to immure himself;
his re-appearance in society, which he had forsaken for more than
a year, would have produced an immense sensation, and I should have
been considered the first doctor in the Philippines. One day I touched
upon this delicate topic.
"Senor Captain," said I, "what are you thinking about, to remain
thus shut up between four walls, and why do you not resume your old
habits? You must go and visit your friends, your acquaintances."
"Doctor," interrupted Don Juan, "how can I show myself in public with
an eye the less? When I pass along the street all the women would say:
'There goes Don Juan the One-eyed!' No, no; before I leave the house
you must get me an artificial eye from Paris."
"You don't mean that? It would be eighteen months before the eye
arrived."
"Then here goes for eighteen months' seclusion," said Don Juan.
I persisted for upwards of an hour, but the Captain would not listen
to reason. He carried his coquetry so far that, although I had
covered the empty orbit with black silk, he had his shutters closed
whenever visitors came; so that, as they always found him in the dark,
none would credit his cure. I was very anxious to thwart Don Juan's
obstinacy, as may well be imagined; I had not the time to waste, during
eighteen months, in dancing attendance at fortune's door; therefore
I determined to make this eye myself, without which the coquetish
captain would not be seen. I took some pieces of glass, a tube, and
set to work. After many fruitless attempts, I at last succeeded in
obtaining the perfect form of an eye; but this was not all--it must
be coloured to resemble nature. I sent for a poor carriage-painter,
who managed to imitate tolerably well the left eye of Don Juan. It
was necessary to preserve this painting from contact with the tears,
which would soon have destroyed it. To accomplish this I had made by
a jeweller a silver globe, smaller than the glass eye, inside which
I united it by means of sealing-wax. I carefully polished the edges
upon a stone, and after eight days' labour I obtained a satisfactory
result. The eye which I had succeeded in producing was really not so
bad after all. I was anxious to place it within the vacant orbit. It
somewhat inconvenienced the Senor Don Juan, but I persuaded him that
he would soon become accustomed to it. Placing across his nose a
pair of spectacles, he examined himself in the looking-glass, and
was so satisfied with his appearance that he decided on commencing
his visits the following day.
As I had anticipated, the re-appearance in the world of Captain Juan
Porras made a great sensation, and soon the consequence was, that
Senor Don Pablo, the eminent French physician--most especially the
clever oculist--was much spoken of. From all quarters patients came to
me. Notwithstanding my youth and inexperience, my first success gave
me such confidence that I performed several operations upon persons
afflicted with cataracts, which succeeded most fortunately. I no longer
sufficed to my large connection, and in a few days, from the greatest
distress, I attained perfect opulence: I had a carriage-and-four in my
stables. I could not, however, notwithstanding this change of fortune,
resign myself to leave Don Juan's house, out of gratitude for the
hospitality he so generously offered me. In my leisure hours he kept
me company, and amused me with the recital of his battle stories and
personal adventures. I had already spent nearly six months with him,
when a circumstance, which forms an epoch in my life, changed my
existence, and compelled me to quit the lively captain. One of my
American friends often called my attention in our walks towards a
young lady in mourning, who passed for one of the prettiest senoras
of the town. Each time we met her my American friend never failed
to praise the beauty of the Marquesa de Las Salinas. She was about
eighteen or nineteen years of age; her features were both regular
and placid; she had beautiful black hair, and large expressive eyes;
she was the widow of a colonel in the guards, who married her when
almost a child. The sight of this young lady produced so lively an
impression upon me, that I explored all the saloons at Binondoc,
to endeavour to meet her elsewhere than in my walks. Fruitless
attempts! The young widow saw nobody. I almost despaired of finding
an opportunity of speaking to her, when one morning an Indian came
to request me to visit his master. I got into the carriage and set
off, without informing myself of the name of the sick person. The
carriage stopped before the door of one of the finest houses in the
Faubourg of Santa-Crux. Having examined the patient, and conversed a
few minutes with him, I went to the table to write a prescription;
suddenly I heard the rustling of a silk dress; I turned round--the
pen fell from my hand. Before me stood the very lady I had so long
sought after--appearing to me as in a dream! My amazement was so
great that I muttered a few unintelligible words, and bowed with such
awkwardness that she smiled. She simply addressed me to inquire the
state of her nephew's health, and withdrew almost immediately. As
to myself, instead of making my ordinary calls, I returned home;
questioned Don Juan minutely about Madame de Las Salinas: he entirely
satisfied my curiosity. He was acquainted with all the family of this
youthful widow, and they were highly respected in the colony. The
next morning, and following days, I returned to this charming widow,
who graciously condescended to receive me with favour. These details
being so completely personal, I pass them over. Six months after
my first interview with Madame de Las Salinas, I asked her hand,
and obtained it. I had therefore found, at more than five thousand
leagues from my country, both happiness and wealth. I agreed that
we should go to France as soon as my wife's property, the greater
part of which lay in Mexico, should be realised. In the meantime my
house was the rendezvous of foreigners, particularly of the French,
who were already rather numerous at Manilla. At this period the
Spanish government named me Surgeon-Major of the 1st Light Regiment,
and of the first battalion of the militia of Panjanga. Having been so
successful in so short a time, I never once doubted but that fortune
would continue to bestow her smiling favours upon me. I had already
prepared everything for my return to France; for we hourly expected
the arrival of the galleons that plied from Acapulco to Manilla,
which were to bring my wife's fortune. Her fortune was no less than
700,000 francs (£28,000 sterling).
One evening, as we were taking tea, we were informed that the vessels
from Acapulco had been telegraphed, and that the next morning they
would be in; our piasters were to be on board; I leave you to guess
if our wishes were not gratified. But, alas! how our hopes were
frustrated: the vessels did not bring us a single piaster. This is
what occurred: five or six millions were sent by land from Mexico
to San Blas, the place of embarkation, and the Mexican government
had the van escorted by a regiment of the line, commanded by Colonel
Iturbide. On the journey he took possession of the van, and fled with
his regiment into the independent states. It is well known that later
Iturbide was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico, then dethroned, and at last
shot, after an expedition that offers more than one analogy with that
of Murat. The very day of the arrival of the vessels we learnt that
our fortune was entirely lost, without even hopes of regaining the
smallest part. My wife and self supported this event with tolerable
philosophy. It was not the loss of our piasters that distressed us
the most, but the necessity we were in to abandon, or at least to
postpone, our journey to France.