CHAPTER XXV

MOSCOW AND THE SLAVOPHILS

Two Ancient Cities--Kief Not a Good Point for Studying Old Russian

National Life--Great Russians and Little Russians--Moscow--Easter Eve

in the Kremlin--Curious Custom--Anecdote of the Emperor

Nicholas--Domiciliary Visits of the Iberian Madonna--The Streets of

Moscow--Recent Changes in the Character of the City--Vulgar Conception

of the Slavophils--Opinion Founded on Personal Acquaintance--Slavophil

Sentiment a Century Ago--Origin and Development of the Slavophil

Doctrine--Slavophilism Essentially Muscovite--The Panslavist

Element--The Slavophils and the Emancipation.

In the last chapter, as in many of the preceding ones, the reader must

have observed that at one moment there was a sudden break, almost

a solution of continuity, in Russian national life. The Tsardom of

Muscovy, with its ancient Oriental costumes and Byzantine traditions,

unexpectedly disappears, and the Russian Empire, clad in modern garb

and animated with the spirit of modern progress, steps forward uninvited

into European history. Of the older civilisation, if civilisation it can

be called, very little survived the political transformation, and that

little is generally supposed to hover ghostlike around Kief and Moscow.

To one or other of these towns, therefore, the student who desires

to learn something of genuine old Russian life, untainted by foreign

influences, naturally wends his way. For my part I thought first of

settling for a time in Kief, the oldest and most revered of Russian

cities, where missionaries from Byzantium first planted Christianity on

Russian soil, and where thousands of pilgrims still assemble yearly

from far and near to prostrate themselves before the Holy Icons in the

churches and to venerate the relics of the blessed saints and martyrs in

the catacombs of the great monastery. I soon discovered, however, that

Kief, though it represents in a certain sense the Byzantine traditions

so dear to the Russian people, is not a good point of observation for

studying the Russian character. It was early exposed to the ravages of

the nomadic tribes of the Steppe, and when it was liberated from those

incursions it was seized by the Poles and Lithuanians, and remained for

centuries under their domination. Only in comparatively recent times

did it begin to recover its Russian character--a university having been

created there for that purpose after the Polish insurrection of 1830.

Even now the process of Russification is far from complete, and the

Russian elements in the population are far from being pure in the

nationalist sense. The city and the surrounding country are, in fact,

Little Russian rather than Great Russian, and between these two sections

of the population there are profound differences--differences of

language, costume, traditions, popular songs, proverbs, folk-lore,

domestic arrangements, mode of life, and Communal organisation. In these

and other respects the Little Russians, South Russians, Ruthenes,

or Khokhly, as they are variously designated, differ from the Great

Russians of the North, who form the predominant factor in the

Empire, and who have given to that wonderful structure its essential

characteristics. Indeed, if I did not fear to ruffle unnecessarily the

patriotic susceptibilities of my Great Russian friends who have a pet

theory on this subject, I should say that we have here two distinct

nationalities, further apart from each other than the English and the

Scotch. The differences are due, I believe, partly to ethnographical

peculiarities and partly to historic conditions.

As it was the energetic Great Russian empire-builders and not the

half-dreamy, half-astute, sympathetic descendants of the Free Cossacks

that I wanted to study, I soon abandoned my idea of settling in the Holy

City on the Dnieper, and chose Moscow as my point of observation; and

here, during several years, I spent regularly some of the winter months.

The first few weeks of my stay in the ancient capital of the Tsars were

spent in the ordinary manner of intelligent tourists. After mastering

the contents of a guide-book I carefully inspected all the officially

recognised objects of interest--the Kremlin, with its picturesque towers

and six centuries of historical associations; the Cathedrals, containing

the venerated tombs of martyrs, saints, and Tsars; the old churches,

with their quaint, archaic, richly decorated Icons; the "Patriarchs'

Treasury," rich in jewelled ecclesiastical vestments and vessels of

silver and gold; the ancient and the modern palace; the Ethnological

Museum, showing the costumes and physiognomy of all the various races in

the Empire; the archaeological collections, containing many objects that

recall the barbaric splendour of old Muscovy; the picture-gallery, with

Ivanof's gigantic picture, in which patriotic Russian critics discover

occult merits which place it above anything that Western Europe has yet

produced! Of course I climbed up to the top of the tall belfry which

rejoices in the name of "Ivan the Great," and looked down on the "gilded

domes"* of the churches, and bright green roofs of the houses, and far

away, beyond these, the gently undulating country with the "Sparrow

Hills," from which Napoleon is said, in cicerone language, to have

"gazed upon the doomed city." Occasionally I walked about the bazaars

in the hope of finding interesting specimens of genuine native

art-industry, and was urgently invited to purchase every conceivable

article which I did not want. At midday or in the evening I visited the

most noted traktirs, and made the acquaintance of the caviar, sturgeons,

sterlets, and other native delicacies for which these institutions

are famous--deafened the while by the deep tones of the colossal

barrel-organ, out of all proportion to the size of the room; and in

order to see how the common people spent their evenings I looked in at

some of the more modest traktirs, and gazed with wonder, not unmixed

with fear, at the enormous quantity of weak tea which the inmates

consumed.

* Allowance must be made here for poetical licence. In

reality, very few of the domes are gilt. The great majority

of them are painted green, like the roofs of the houses.

Since these first weeks of my sojourn in Moscow more than thirty years

have passed, and many of my early impressions have been blurred by time,

but one scene remains deeply graven on my memory. It was Easter Eve,

and I had gone with a friend to the Kremlin to witness the customary

religious ceremonies. Though the rain was falling heavily, an immense

number of people had assembled in and around the Cathedral of the

Assumption. The crowd was of the most mixed kind. There stood the

patient bearded muzhik in his well-worn sheepskin; the big, burly,

self-satisfied merchant in his long black glossy kaftan; the noble with

fashionable great-coat and umbrella; thinly clad old women shivering

in the cold, and bright-eyed young damsels with their warm cloaks drawn

closely round them; old men with long beard, wallet, and pilgrim's

staff; and mischievous urchins with faces for the moment preternaturally

demure. Each right hand, of old and young alike, held a lighted taper,

and these myriads of flickering little flames produced a curious

illumination, giving to the surrounding buildings a weird

picturesqueness which they do not possess in broad daylight. All stood

patiently waiting for the announcement of the glad tidings: "He is

risen!" As midnight approached, the hum of voices gradually ceased,

till, as the clock struck twelve, the deep-toned bell on "Ivan the

Great" began to toll, and in answer to this signal all the bells in

Moscow suddenly sent forth a merry peal. Each bell--and their name is

legion--seemed frantically desirous of drowning its neighbour's voice,

the solemn boom of the great one overhead mingling curiously with the

sharp, fussy "ting-a-ting-ting" of diminutive rivals. If demons dwell

in Moscow and dislike bell-ringing, as is generally supposed, then

there must have been at that moment a general stampede of the powers of

darkness such as is described by Milton in his poem on the Nativity, and

as if this deafening din were not enough, big guns were fired in rapid

succession from a battery of artillery close at hand! The noise seemed

to stimulate the religious enthusiasm, and the general excitement had

a wonderful effect on a Russian friend who accompanied me. When in his

normal condition that gentleman was a quiet, undemonstrative person,

devoted to science, an ardent adherent of Western civilisation in

general and of Darwinism in particular, and a thorough sceptic with

regard to all forms of religious belief; but the influence of the

surroundings was too much for his philosophical equanimity. For a moment

his orthodox Muscovite soul awoke from its sceptical, cosmopolitan

lethargy. After crossing himself repeatedly--an act of devotion which I

had never before seen him perform--he grasped my arm, and, pointing to

the crowd, said in an exultant tone of voice, "Look there! There is a

sight that you can see nowhere but in the 'White-stone City.'* Are not

the Russians a religious people?"

*Belokamenny, meaning "of white stone," is one of the

popular names of Moscow.

To this unexpected question I gave a monosyllabic assent, and refrained

from disturbing my friend's new-born enthusiasm by any discordant note;

but I must confess that this sudden outburst of deafening noise and

the dazzling light aroused in my heretical breast feelings of a warlike

rather than a religious kind. For a moment I could imagine myself in

ancient Moscow, and could fancy the people being called out to repel a

Tartar horde already thundering at the gates!

The service lasted two or three hours, and terminated with the curious

ceremony of blessing the Easter cakes, which were ranged--each one with

a lighted taper stuck in it--in long rows outside of the cathedral. A

not less curious custom practised at this season is that of exchanging

kisses of fraternal love. Theoretically one ought to embrace and be

embraced by all present--indicating thereby that all are brethren in

Christ--but the refinements of modern life have made innovations in the

practice, and most people confine their salutations to their friends

and acquaintances. When two friends meet during that night or on the

following day, the one says, "Christos voskres!" ("Christ hath risen!");

and the other replies, "Vo istine voskres!" ("In truth he hath risen!").

They then kiss each other three times on the right and left cheek

alternately. The custom is more or less observed in all classes of

society, and the Emperor himself conforms to it.

This reminds me of an anecdote which is related of the Emperor Nicholas

I., tending to show that he was not so devoid of kindly human feelings

as his imperial and imperious exterior suggested. On coming out of his

cabinet one Easter morning he addressed to the soldier who was mounting

guard at the door the ordinary words of salutation, "Christ hath risen!"

and received instead of the ordinary reply, a flat contradiction--"Not

at all, your Imperial Majesty!" Astounded by such an unexpected

answer--for no one ventured to dissent from Nicholas even in the most

guarded and respectful terms--he instantly demanded an explanation. The

soldier, trembling at his own audacity, explained that he was a Jew,

and could not conscientiously admit the fact of the Resurrection. This

boldness for conscience' sake so pleased the Tsar that he gave the man a

handsome Easter present.

A quarter of a century after the Easter Eve above mentioned--or, to be

quite accurate, on the 26th of May, 1896--I again find myself in the

Kremlin on the occasion of a great religious ceremony--a ceremony

which shows that "the White-stone City" on the Moskva is still in some

respects the capital of Holy Russia. This time my post of observation is

inside the cathedral, which is artistically draped with purple hangings

and crowded with the most distinguished personages of the Empire, all

arrayed in gorgeous apparel--Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses, Imperial

Highnesses and High Excellencies, Metropolitans and Archbishops,

Senators and Councillors of State, Generals and Court dignitaries. In

the centre of the building, on a high, richly decorated platform, sits

the Emperor with his Imperial Consort, and his mother, the widowed

Consort of Alexander III. Though Nicholas II. has not the colossal

stature which has distinguished so many of the Romanofs, he is well

built, holds himself erect, and shows a quiet dignity in his movements;

while his face, which resembles that of his cousin, the Prince of Wales,

wears a kindly, sympathetic expression. The Empress looks even more than

usually beautiful, in a low dress cut in the ancient fashion, her thick

brown hair, dressed most simply without jewellery or other ornaments,

falling in two long ringlets over her white shoulders. For the moment,

her attire is much simpler than that of the Empress Dowager, who wears

a diamond crown and a great mantle of gold brocade, lined and edged

with ermine, the long train displaying in bright-coloured embroidery the

heraldic double-headed eagle of the Imperial arms.

Each of these august personages sits on a throne of curious workmanship,

consecrated by ancient historic associations. That of the Emperor, the

gift of the Shah of Persia to Ivan the Terrible, and commonly called the

Throne of Tsar Michael, the founder of the Romanof dynasty, is covered

with gold plaques, and studded with hundreds of big, roughly cut

precious stones, mostly rubies, emeralds, and turquoises. Of still older

date is the throne of the young Empress, for it was given by Pope Paul

II. to Tsar Ivan III., grandfather of the Terrible, on the occasion of

his marriage with a niece of the last Byzantine Emperor. More recent

but not less curious is that of the Empress Dowager. It is the throne of

Tsar Alexis, the father of Peter the Great, covered with countless and

priceless diamonds, rubies, and pearls, and surmounted by an Imperial

eagle of solid gold, together with golden statuettes of St. Peter and

St. Nicholas, the miracle-worker. Over each throne is a canopy of purple

velvet fringed with gold, out of which rise stately plumes representing

the national colours.

Their Majesties have come hither, in accordance with time-honoured

custom, to be crowned in this old Cathedral of the Assumption, the

central point of the Kremlin, within a stone-throw of the Cathedral of

the Archangel Michael, in which lie the remains of the old Grand Dukes

and Tsars of Muscovy. Already the Emperor has read aloud, in a clear,

unfaltering voice, from a richly bound parchment folio, held by the

Metropolitan of St. Petersburg, the Orthodox creed; and his Eminence,

after invoking on his Majesty the blessing of the Holy Spirit, has

performed the mystic rite of placing his hands in the form of a cross on

the Imperial forehead. Thus all is ready for the most important part of

the solemn ceremony. Standing erect, the Emperor doffs his small

diadem and puts on with his own hands the great diamond crown, offered

respectfully by the Metropolitan; then he reseats himself on his

throne, holding in his right hand the Sceptre and in his left the Orb

of Dominion. After sitting thus in state for a few minutes, he stands up

and proceeds to crown his august spouse, kneeling before him. First he

touches her forehead with his own crown, and then he places on her

head a smaller one, which is immediately attached to her hair by four

ladies-in-waiting, dressed in the old Muscovite Court-costume. At the

same time her Majesty is invested with a mantle of heavy gold brocade,

similar to those of the Emperor and Empress Dowager, lined and bordered

with ermine.

Thus crowned and robed their Majesties sit in state, while a

proto-deacon reads, in a loud stentorian voice, the long list of

sonorous hereditary titles belonging of right to the Imperator and

Autocrat of all the Russias, and the choir chants a prayer invoking long

life and happiness--"Many years! Many years! Many years!"--on the high

and mighty possessor of the titles aforesaid. And now begins the Mass,

celebrated with a pomp and magnificence that can be witnessed only

once or twice in a generation. Sixty gorgeously robed ecclesiastical

dignitaries of the highest orders fulfil their various functions with

due solemnity and unction; but the magnificence of the vestments and the

pomp of the ceremonial are soon forgotten in the exquisite solemnising

music, as the deep double-bass tones of the adult singers in the

background--carefully selected for the occasion in all parts of the

Empire--peal forth as from a great organ, and blend marvellously with

the clear, soft, gentle notes of the red-robed chorister boys in front

of the Iconostase. Listening with intense emotion, I involuntarily

recall to mind Fra Angelico's pictures of angelic choirs, and cannot

help thinking that the pious old Florentine, whose soul was attuned to

all that was sacred and beautiful, must have heard in imagination such

music as this. So strong is the impression that the subsequent details

of the long ceremony, including the anointing with the holy chrism, fail

to engrave themselves on my memory. One incident, however, remains; and

if it had happened in an earlier and more superstitious age it would

doubtless have been chronicled as an omen full of significance. As the

Emperor is on the point of descending from the dais, duly crowned and

anointed, a staggering ray of sunshine steals through one of the narrow

upper windows and, traversing the dimly lit edifice, falls full on the

Imperial crown, lighting up for a moment the great mass of diamonds with

a hundredfold brilliance.

In a detailed account of the Coronation which I wrote on leaving the

Kremlin, I find the following: "The magnificent ceremony is at an end,

and now Nicholas II. is the crowned Emperor and anointed Autocrat of all

the Russias. May the cares of Empire rest lightly on him! That must be

the earnest prayer of every loyal subject and every sincere well-wisher,

for of all living mortals he is perhaps the one who has been

entrusted by Providence with the greatest power and the greatest

responsibilities." In writing those words I did not foresee how heavy

his responsibilities would one day weigh upon him, when his Empire would

be sorely tried, by foreign war and internal discontent.

One more of these old Moscow reminiscences, and I have done. A day or

two after the Coronation I saw the Khodinskoye Polye, a great plain in

the outskirts of Moscow, strewn with hundreds of corpses! During

the previous night enormous crowds from the city and the surrounding

districts had collected here in order to receive at sunrise, by the

Tsar's command, a little memento of the coronation ceremony, in the

form of a packet containing a metal cup and a few eatables; and as day

dawned, in their anxiety to get near the row of booths from which the

distribution was to be made, about two thousand had been crushed to

death. It was a sight more horrible than a battlefield, because among

the dead were a large proportion of women and children, terribly

mutilated in the struggle. Altogether, "a sight to shudder at, not to

see!"

To return to the remark of my friend in the Kremlin on Easter Eve,

the Russians in general, and the Muscovites in particular, as the

quintessence of all that is Russian, are certainly a religious people,

but their piety sometimes finds modes of expression which rather

shock the Protestant mind. As an instance of these, I may mention the

domiciliary visits of the Iberian Madonna. This celebrated Icon, for

reasons which I have never heard satisfactorily explained, is held

in peculiar veneration by the Muscovites, and occupies in popular

estimation a position analogous to the tutelary deities of ancient pagan

cities. Thus when Napoleon was about to enter the city in 1812, the

populace clamorously called upon the Metropolitan to take the Madonna,

and lead them out armed with hatchets against the hosts of the infidel;

and when the Tsar visits Moscow he generally drives straight from the

railway-station to the little chapel where the Icon resides--near one of

the entrances to the Kremlin--and there offers up a short prayer.

Every Orthodox Russian, as he passes this chapel, uncovers and crosses

himself, and whenever a religious service is performed in it there

is always a considerable group of worshippers. Some of the richer

inhabitants, however, are not content with thus performing their

devotions in public before the Icon. They like to have it from time to

time in their houses, and the ecclesiastical authorities think fit to

humour this strange fancy. Accordingly every morning the Iberian Madonna

may be seen driving about the city from one house to another in a

carriage and four! The carriage may be at once recognised, not from any

peculiarity in its structure, for it is an ordinary close carriage such

as may be obtained at livery stables, but by the fact that the coachman

sits bare-headed, and all the people in the street uncover and cross

themselves as it passes. Arrived at the house to which it has been

invited, the Icon is carried through all the rooms, and in the principal

apartment a short religious service is performed before it. As it is

being brought in or taken away, female servants may sometimes be seen

to kneel on the floor so that it may be carried over them. During

its absence from its chapel it is replaced by a copy not easily

distinguishable from the original, and thus the devotions of the

faithful and the flow of pecuniary contributions do not suffer

interruption. These contributions, together with the sums paid for the

domiciliary visits, amount to a considerable yearly sum, and go--if I am

rightly informed--to swell the revenues of the Metropolitan.

A single drive or stroll through Moscow will suffice to convince the

traveller, even if he knows nothing of Russian history, that the city

is not, like its modern rival on the Neva, the artificial creation of a

far-seeing, self-willed autocrat, but rather a natural product which has

grown up slowly and been modified according to the constantly changing

wants of the population. A few of the streets have been Europeanised--in

all except the paving, which is everywhere execrably Asiatic--to suit

the tastes of those who have adopted European culture, but the great

majority of them still retain much of their ancient character and

primitive irregularity. As soon as we diverge from the principal

thoroughfares, we find one-storied houses--some of them still of

wood--which appear to have been transported bodily from the country,

with courtyard, garden, stables, and other appurtenances. The whole is

no doubt a little compressed, for land has here a certain value, but the

character is in no way changed, and we have some difficulty in believing

that we are not in the suburbs but near the centre of a great

town. There is nothing that can by any possibility be called street

architecture. Though there is unmistakable evidence of the streets

having been laid out according to a preconceived plan, many of them show

clearly that in their infancy they had a wayward will of their own, and

bent to the right or left without any topographical justification. The

houses, too, display considerable individuality of character, having

evidently during the course of their construction paid no attention to

their neighbours. Hence we find no regularly built terraces, crescents,

or squares. There is, it is true, a double circle of boulevards, but the

houses which flank them have none of that regularity which we commonly

associate with the term. Dilapidated buildings which in West-European

cities would hide themselves in some narrow lane or back slum here

stand composedly in the face of day by the side of a palatial residence,

without having the least consciousness of the incongruity of their

position, just as the unsophisticated muzhik, in his unsavoury

sheepskin, can stand in the midst of a crowd of well-dressed people

without feeling at all awkward or uncomfortable.

All this incongruity, however, is speedily disappearing. Moscow has

become the centre of a great network of railways, and the commercial

and industrial capital of the Empire. Already her rapidly increasing

population has nearly reached a million.* The value of land and property

is being doubled and trebled, and building speculations, with the aid of

credit institutions of various kinds, are being carried on with feverish

rapidity. Well may the men of the old school complain that the world is

turned upside down, and regret the old times of traditional somnolence

and comfortable routine! Those good old times are gone now, never to

return. The ancient capital, which long gloried in its past historical

associations, now glories in its present commercial prosperity, and

looks forward with confidence to the future. Even the Slavophils, the

obstinate champions of the ultra-Muscovite spirit, have changed with the

times, and descended to the level of ordinary prosaic life. These men,

who formerly spent years in seeking to determine the place of Moscow

in the past and future history of humanity, have--to their honour be

it said--become in these latter days town-counsellors, and have devoted

much of their time to devising ways and means of improving the drainage

and the street-paving! But I am anticipating in a most unjustifiable

way. I ought first to tell the reader who these Slavophils were, and why

they sought to correct the commonly received conceptions of universal

history.

* According to the census of 1897 it was 988,610.

The reader may have heard of the Slavophils as a set of fanatics who,

about half a century ago, were wont to go about in what they considered

the ancient Russian costume, who wore beards in defiance of Peter the

Great's celebrated ukaz and Nicholas's clearly-expressed wish anent

shaving, who gloried in Muscovite barbarism, and had solemnly "sworn a

feud" against European civilisation and enlightenment. By the tourists

of the time who visited Moscow they were regarded as among the most

noteworthy lions of the place, and were commonly depicted in not very

flattering colours. At the beginning of the Crimean War they were among

the extreme Chauvinists who urged the necessity of planting the Greek

cross on the desecrated dome of St. Sophia in Constantinople, and

hoped to see the Emperor proclaimed "Panslavonic Tsar"; and after the

termination of the war they were frequently accused of inventing Turkish

atrocities, stirring up discontent among the Slavonic subjects of the

Sultan, and secretly plotting for the overthrow of the Ottoman Empire.

All this was known to me before I went to Russia, and I had consequently

invested the Slavophils with a halo of romance. Shortly after my arrival

in St. Petersburg I heard something more which tended to increase my

interest in them--they had caused, I was told, great trepidation among

the highest official circles by petitioning the Emperor to resuscitate a

certain ancient institution, called Zemskiye Sobory, which might be

made to serve the purposes of a parliament! This threw a new light

upon them--under the disguise of archaeological conservatives they were

evidently aiming at important liberal reforms.

As a foreigner and a heretic, I expected a very cold and distant

reception from these uncompromising champions of Russian nationality and

the Orthodox faith; but in this I was agreeably disappointed. By all

of them I was received in the most amiable and friendly way, and I soon

discovered that my preconceived ideas of them were very far from the

truth. Instead of wild fanatics I found quiet, extremely intelligent,

highly educated gentlemen, speaking foreign languages with ease and

elegance, and deeply imbued with that Western culture which they were

commonly supposed to despise. And this first impression was amply

confirmed by subsequent experience during several years of friendly

intercourse. They always showed themselves men of earnest character

and strong convictions, but they never said or did anything that could

justify the appellation of fanatics. Like all philosophical theorists,

they often allowed their logic to blind them to facts, but their

reasonings were very plausible--so plausible, indeed, that, had I been a

Russian they would have almost persuaded me to be a Slavophil, at least

during the time they were talking to me.

To understand their doctrine we must know something of its origin and

development.

The origin of the Slavophil sentiment, which must not be confounded

with the Slavophil doctrine, is to be sought in the latter half of

the seventeenth century, when the Tsars of Muscovy were introducing

innovations in Church and State. These innovations were profoundly

displeasing to the people. A large portion of the lower classes, as I

have related in a previous chapter, sought refuge in Old Ritualism or

sectarianism, and imagined that Tsar Peter, who called himself by the

heretical title of "Imperator," was an emanation of the Evil Principle.

The nobles did not go quite so far. They remained members of the

official Church, and restricted themselves to hinting that Peter was the

son, not of Satan, but of a German surgeon--a lineage which, according

to the conceptions of the time, was a little less objectionable; but

most of them were very hostile to the changes, and complained bitterly

of the new burdens which these changes entailed. Under Peter's immediate

successors, when not only the principles of administration but also many

of the administrators were German, this hostility greatly increased.

So long as the innovations appeared only in the official activity of

the Government, the patriotic, conservative spirit was obliged to keep

silence; but when the foreign influence spread to the social life of the

Court aristocracy, the opposition began to find a literary expression.

In the time of Catherine II., when Gallomania was at its height in Court

circles, comedies and satirical journals ridiculed those who, "blinded

by some externally brilliant gifts of foreigners, not only prefer

foreign countries to their native land, but even despise their

fellow-countrymen, and think that a Russian ought to borrow all--even

personal character. As if nature arranging all things with such wisdom,

and bestowing on all regions the gifts and customs which are appropriate

to the climate, had been so unjust as to refuse to the Russians a

character of their own! As if she condemned them to wander over all

regions, and to adopt by bits the various customs of various nations,

in order to compose out of the mixture a new character appropriate to

no nation whatever!" Numerous passages of this kind might be quoted,

attacking the "monkeyism" and "parrotism" of those who indiscriminately

adopted foreign manners and customs--those who

"Sauntered Europe round,

And gathered ev'ry vice in ev'ry ground."

Sometimes the terms and metaphors employed were more forcible than

refined. One satirical journal, for instance, relates an amusing

story about certain little Russian pigs that went to foreign lands to

enlighten their understanding, and came back to their country full-grown

swine. The national pride was wounded by the thought that Russians

could be called "clever apes who feed on foreign intelligence," and

many writers, stung by such reproaches, fell into the opposite extreme,

discovering unheard-of excellences in the Russian mind and character,

and vociferously decrying everything foreign in order to place these

imagined excellences in a stronger light by contrast. Even when they

recognised that their country was not quite so advanced in civilisation

as certain other nations, they congratulated themselves on the fact,

and invented by way of justification an ingenious theory, which was

afterwards developed by the Slavophils. "The nations of the West," they

said, "began to live before us, and are consequently more advanced than

we are; but we have on that account no reason to envy them, for we can

profit by their errors, and avoid those deep-rooted evils from which

they are suffering. He who has just been born is happier than he who is

dying."

Thus, we see, a patriotic reaction against the introduction of foreign

institutions and the inordinate admiration of foreign culture already

existed in Russia more than a century ago. It did not, however, take the

form of a philosophical theory till a much later period, when a similar

movement was going on in various countries of Western Europe.

After the overthrow of the great Napoleonic Empire a reaction against

cosmopolitanism took place and a romantic enthusiasm for nationality

spread over Europe like an epidemic. Blind, enthusiastic patriotism

became the fashionable sentiment of the time. Each nation took to

admiring itself complacently, to praising its own character and

achievements, and to idealising its historical and mythical past.

National peculiarities, "local colour," ancient customs, traditional

superstitions--in short, everything that a nation believed to be

specially and exclusively its own, now raised an enthusiasm similar to

that which had been formerly excited by cosmopolitan conceptions founded

on the law of nature. The movement produced good and evil results.

In serious minds it led to a deep and conscientious study of history,

national literature, popular mythology, and the like; whilst in

frivolous, inflammable spirits it gave birth merely to a torrent of

patriotic fervour and rhetorical exaggeration. The Slavophils were the

Russian representatives of this nationalistic reaction, and displayed

both its serious and its frivolous elements.

Among the most important products of this movement in Germany was the

Hegelian theory of universal history. According to Hegel's views,

which were generally accepted by those who occupied themselves with

philosophical questions, universal history was described as "Progress in

the consciousness of freedom" (Fortschritt im Bewusstsein der Freiheit).

In each period of the world's history, it was explained, some one

nation or race had been intrusted with the high mission of enabling the

Absolute Reason, or Weltgeist, to express itself in objective existence,

while the other nations and races had for the time no metaphysical

justification for their existence, and no higher duty than to imitate

slavishly the favoured rival in which the Weltgeist had for the moment

chosen to incorporate itself. The incarnation had taken place first in

the Eastern Monarchies, then in Greece, next in Rome, and lastly in the

Germanic race; and it was generally assumed, if not openly asserted,

that this mystical Metempsychosis of the Absolute was now at an end. The

cycle of existence was complete. In the Germanic peoples the Weltgeist

had found its highest and final expression.

Russians in general knew nothing about German philosophy, and were

consequently not in any way affected by these ideas, but there was in

Moscow a small group of young men who ardently studied German literature

and metaphysics, and they were much shocked by Hegel's views. Ever since

the brilliant reign of Catherine II., who had defeated the Turks and had

dreamed of resuscitating the Byzantine Empire, and especially since the

memorable events of 1812-15, when Alexander I. appeared as the liberator

of enthralled Europe and the arbiter of her destinies, Russians

were firmly convinced that their country was destined to play a most

important part in human history. Already the great Russian historian

Karamzin had declared that henceforth Clio must be silent or accord

to Russia a prominent place in the history of the nations. Now, by the

Hegelian theory, the whole of the Slav race was left out in the cold,

with no high mission, with no new truths to divulge, with nothing better

to do, in fact, than to imitate the Germans.

The patriotic philosophers of Moscow could not, of course, adopt this

view. Whilst accepting the fundamental principles, they declared the

theory to be incomplete. The incompleteness lay in the assumption that

humanity had already entered on the final stages of its development. The

Teutonic nations were perhaps for the moment the leaders in the march of

civilisation, but there was no reason to suppose that they would always

retain that privileged position. On the contrary, there were already

symptoms that their ascendency was drawing to a close. "Western Europe,"

it was said, "presents a strange, saddening spectacle. Opinion struggles

against opinion, power against power, throne against throne. Science,

Art, and Religion, the three chief motors of social life, have lost

their force. We venture to make an assertion which to many at present

may seem strange, but which will be in a few years only too evident:

Western Europe is on the highroad to ruin! We Russians, on the contrary,

are young and fresh, and have taken no part in the crimes of Europe.

We have a great mission to fulfil. Our name is already inscribed on

the tablets of victory, and now we have to inscribe our spirit in the

history of the human mind. A higher kind of victory--the victory of

Science, Art and Faith--awaits us on the ruins of tottering Europe!"*

* These words were written by Prince Odoefski.

This conclusion was supported by arguments drawn from history--or,

at least, what was believed to be history. The European world was

represented as being composed of two hemispheres--the Eastern or

Graeco-Slavonic on the one hand, and the Western, or Roman Catholic

and Protestant, on the other. These two hemispheres, it was said, are

distinguished from each other by many fundamental characteristics. In

both of them Christianity formed originally the basis of civilisation,

but in the West it became distorted and gave a false direction to the

intellectual development. By placing the logical reason of the learned

above the conscience of the whole Church, Roman Catholicism produced

Protestantism, which proclaimed the right of private judgment and

consequently became split up into innumerable sects. The dry, logical

spirit which was thus fostered created a purely intellectual, one-sided

philosophy, which must end in pure scepticism, by blinding men to those

great truths which lie above the sphere of reasoning and logic. The

Graeco-Slavonic world, on the contrary, having accepted Christianity

not from Rome, but from Byzantium, received pure orthodoxy and true

enlightenment, and was thus saved alike from Papal tyranny and from

Protestant free-thinking. Hence the Eastern Christians have preserved

faithfully not only the ancient dogmas, but also the ancient spirit of

Christianity--that spirit of pious humility, resignation, and brotherly

love which Christ taught by precept and example. If they have not yet a

philosophy, they will create one, and it will far surpass all previous

systems; for in the writings of the Greek Fathers are to be found the

germs of a broader, a deeper, and a truer philosophy than the dry,

meagre rationalism of the West--a philosophy founded not on the logical

faculty alone, but on the broader basis of human nature as a whole.

The fundamental characteristics of the Graeco-Slavonic world--so runs

the Slavophil theory--have been displayed in the history of Russia.

Throughout Western Christendom the principal of individual judgment and

reckless individual egotism have exhausted the social forces and brought

society to the verge of incurable anarchy and inevitable dissolution,

whereas the social and political history of Russia has been harmonious

and peaceful. It presents no struggles between the different social

classes, and no conflicts between Church and State. All the factors have

worked in unison, and the development has been guided by the spirit of

pure orthodoxy. But in this harmonious picture there is one big,

ugly black spot--Peter, falsely styled "the Great," and his so-called

reforms. Instead of following the wise policy of his ancestors, Peter

rejected the national traditions and principles, and applied to his

country, which belonged to the Eastern world, the principles of Western

civilisation. His reforms, conceived in a foreign spirit, and elaborated

by men who did not possess the national instincts, were forced upon the

nation against its will, and the result was precisely what might have

been expected. The "broad Slavonic nature" could not be controlled by

institutions which had been invented by narrow-minded, pedantic German

bureaucrats, and, like another Samson, it pulled down the building in

which foreign legislators sought to confine it. The attempt to introduce

foreign culture had a still worse effect. The upper classes, charmed and

dazzled by the glare and glitter of Western science, threw themselves

impulsively on the newly found treasures, and thereby condemned

themselves to moral slavery and intellectual sterility. Fortunately--and

herein lay one of the fundamental principles of the Slavophil

doctrine--the imported civilisation had not at all infected the common

people. Through all the changes which the administration and the

Noblesse underwent the peasantry preserved religiously in their hearts

"the living legacy of antiquity," the essence of Russian nationality,

"a clear spring welling up living waters, hidden and unknown, but

powerful."* To recover this lost legacy by studying the character,

customs, and institutions of the peasantry, to lead the educated classes

back to the path from which they had strayed, and to re-establish that

intellectual and moral unity which had been disturbed by the foreign

importations--such was the task which the Slavophils proposed to

themselves.

* This was one of the favourite themes of Khomiakof, the

Slavophil poet and theologian.

Deeply imbued with that romantic spirit which distorted all the

intellectual activity of the time, the Slavophils often indulged in

the wildest exaggerations, condemning everything foreign and praising

everything Russian. When in this mood they saw in the history of the

West nothing but violence, slavery, and egotism, and in that of their

own country free-will, liberty, and peace. The fact that Russia did not

possess free political institutions was adduced as a precious fruit of

that spirit of Christian resignation and self-sacrifice which places

the Russian at such an immeasurable height above the proud, selfish

European; and because Russia possessed few of the comforts and

conveniences of common life, the West was accused of having made comfort

its God! We need not, however, dwell on these puerilities, which only

gained for their authors the reputation of being ignorant, narrow-minded

men, imbued with a hatred of enlightenment and desirous of leading their

country back to its primitive barbarism. What the Slavophils really

condemned, at least in their calmer moments, was not European culture,

but the uncritical, indiscriminate adoption of it by their countrymen.

Their tirades against foreign culture must appear excusable when we

remember that many Russians of the upper ranks could speak and write

French more correctly than their native language, and that even the

great national poet Pushkin was not ashamed to confess--what was not

true, and a mere piece of affectation--that "the language of Europe" was

more familiar to him than his mother-tongue!

The Slavophil doctrine, though it made a great noise in the world, never

found many adherents. The society of St. Petersburg regarded it as one

of those harmless provincial eccentricities which are always to be found

in Moscow. In the modern capital, with its foreign name, its streets

and squares on the European model, its palaces and churches in the

Renaissance style, and its passionate love of everything French, any

attempt to resuscitate the old Boyaric times would have been eminently

ridiculous. Indeed, hostility to St. Petersburg and to "the Petersburg

period of Russian history" is one of the characteristic traits of

genuine Slavophilism. In Moscow the doctrine found a more appropriate

home. There the ancient churches, with the tombs of Grand Princes and

holy martyrs, the palace in which the Tsars of Muscovy had lived, the

Kremlin which had resisted--not always successfully--the attacks of

savage Tartars and heretical Poles, the venerable Icons that had many a

time protected the people from danger, the block of masonry from which,

on solemn occasions, the Tsar and the Patriarch had addressed the

assembled multitude--these, and a hundred other monuments sanctified by

tradition, have kept alive in the popular memory some vague remembrance

of the olden time, and are still capable of awakening antiquarian

patriotism.

The inhabitants, too, have preserved something of the old Muscovite

character. Whilst successive sovereigns have been striving to make the

country a progressive European empire, Moscow has remained the home of

passive conservatism and an asylum for the discontented, especially for

the disappointed aspirants to Imperial favour. Abandoned by the modern

Emperors, she can glory in her ancient Tsars. But even the Muscovites

were not prepared to accept the Slavophil doctrine in the extreme form

which it assumed, and were not a little perplexed by the eccentricities

of those who professed it. Plain, sensible people, though they might

be proud of being citizens of the ancient capital, and might thoroughly

enjoy a joke at the expense of St. Petersburg, could not understand

a little coterie of enthusiasts who sought neither official rank nor

decorations, who slighted many of the conventionalities of the higher

classes to which by birth and education they belonged, who loved to

fraternise with the common people, and who occasionally dressed in the

national costume which had been discarded by the nobles since the time

of Peter the Great.

The Slavophils thus remained merely a small literary party, which

probably did not count more than a dozen members, but their influence

was out of all proportion to their numbers. They preached successfully

the doctrine that the historical development of Russia has been

peculiar, that her present social and political organisation is

radically different from that of the countries of Western Europe, and

that consequently the social and political evils from which she suffers

are not to be cured by the remedies which have proved efficacious in

France and Germany. These truths, which now appear commonplace, were

formerly by no means generally recognised, and the Slavophils deserve

credit for directing attention to them. Besides this, they helped to

awaken in the upper classes a lively sympathy with the poor, oppressed,

and despised peasantry. So long as the Emperor Nicholas lived they had

to confine themselves to a purely literary activity; but during the

great reforms initiated by his successor, Alexander II., they descended

into the arena of practical politics, and played a most useful and

honourable part in the emancipation of the serfs. In the new

local self-government, too--the Zemstvo and the new municipal

institutions--they laboured energetically and to good purpose. Of all

this I shall have occasion to speak more fully in future chapters.

But what of their Panslavist aspirations? By their theory they were

constrained to pay attention to the Slav race as a whole, but they were

more Russian than Slav, and more Muscovite than Russian. The Panslavist

element consequently occupied a secondary place in Slavophil doctrine.

Though they did much to stimulate popular sympathy with the Southern

Slavs, and always cherished the hope that the Serbs, Bulgarians, and

cognate Slav nationalities would one day throw off the bondage of the

German and the Turk, they never proposed any elaborate project for the

solution of the Eastern Question. So far as I was able to gather from

their conversation, they seemed to favour the idea of a grand Slavonic

Confederation, in which the hegemony would, of course, belong to Russia.

In ordinary times the only steps which they took for the realisation of

this idea consisted in contributing money for schools and churches

among the Slav population of Austria and Turkey, and in educating young

Bulgarians in Russia. During the Cretan insurrection they

sympathised warmly with the insurgents as co-religionists, but

afterwards--especially during the crisis of the Eastern Question which

culminated in the Treaty of San Stefano and the Congress of Berlin

(1878)--their Hellenic sympathies cooled, because the Greeks showed that

they had political aspirations inconsistent with the designs of Russia,

and that they were likely to be the rivals rather than the allies of the

Slavs in the struggle for the Sick Man's inheritance.

Since the time when I was living in Moscow in constant intercourse with

the leading Slavophils more than a quarter of a century has passed, and

of those with whom I spent so many pleasant evenings discussing the past

history and future destinies of the Slav races, not one remains alive.

All the great prophets of the old Slavophil doctrine--Jun Samarin,

Prince Tcherkaski, Ivan Aksakof, Kosheleff--have departed without

leaving behind them any genuine disciples. The present generation of

Muscovite frondeurs, who continue to rail against Western Europe and the

pedantic officialism of St. Petersburg, are of a more modern and less

academic type. Their philippics are directed not against Peter the Great

and his reforms, but rather against recent Ministers of Foreign Affairs

who are thought to have shown themselves too subservient to foreign

Powers, and against M. Witte, the late Minister of Finance, who is

accused of favouring the introduction of foreign capital and enterprise,

and of sacrificing to unhealthy industrial development the interests of

the agricultural classes. These laments and diatribes are allowed free

expression in private conversation and in the Press, but they do not

influence very deeply the policy of the Government or the natural course

of events; for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs continues to cultivate

friendly relations with the Cabinets of the West, and Moscow is rapidly

becoming, by the force of economic conditions, the great industrial and

commercial centre of the Empire.

The administrative and bureaucratic centre--if anything on the frontier

of a country can be called its centre--has long been, and is likely to

remain, Peter's stately city at the mouth of the Neva, to which I now

invite the reader to accompany me.

Russia · 第 25 / 39 章