CHAPTER I

Transcriber Note

Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=.

CHINA AND THE CHINESE

China

AND THE CHINESE

BY

EDMUND PLAUCHUT

TRANSLATED AND EDITED

BY

Mrs. ARTHUR BELL (N. D'Anvers)

AUTHOR OF 'THE ELEMENTARY HISTORY OF ART,' 'LIFE OF GAINSBOROUGH,'

'THE SCIENCE LADDERS,' ETC.

WITH FIFTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON

HURST AND BLACKETT, LIMITED

13 GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

1899

_All rights reserved._

TRANSLATOR'S NOTE

This brightly written little book by the well-known French author, Edmund

Plauchut, who has spent many years in China, is the first of the new

series known as the "Livres d'or de la Science" recently commenced by MM.

Schleicher Frères of Paris. It gives in a succinct form a very complete

account of the Chinese, both past and present, their religion, their

literature, and their time-honoured customs. Touching but lightly on the

many vexed questions of modern diplomacy, it yet presents a very true

picture of the problems European statesmen have to solve in connection

with the inevitable partition of the Celestial Empire, and will, it is

hoped, be found of real service to those who wish to be abreast with the

times, yet who have not the leisure to read the longer and more exhaustive

books on the subject which are continually appearing.

Nancy Bell,

_Southbourne-on-Sea,

May 1899._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

The delight of exploring unknown lands--Saint Louis and

the Tartars of olden times--The Anglo-French force enters

Pekin--Terror of the "Red Devils"--The "Cup of Immortality"--The

"Sons of Heaven"--Hong-Kong as it was and is--The Treaty of

Tien-tsin--The game of "Morra"--First Tea-party in the Palace

of Pekin--Chinese agriculture and love of flowers--Chinese

literati--An awkward meeting between two of them--Love of poetry

in China--Voltaire's letter to the poet-king--The Chinese

army--The _Shu-King_, or sacred book of China--Yao and his

work--Chung, the lowly-born Emperor--The Hoang-Ho, or "China's

Sorrow"--Yu the engineer and his work--Chung chooses Yu to reign

after him--The foundation of the hereditary monarchy in China 1

CHAPTER II

Trip up the Shu-Kiang river--My fellow-passengers and their

costumes--A damaged bell--Female peasants on the river-banks--I

am caught up and carried off by a laughing virago--Arrival at

Canton--Early trading between China and Ceylon and Africa,

etc.--The Empress Lui-Tseu teaching the people to rear

silk-worms--The treaties of Nanking and Tien-tsin--Bombardment

of Canton--Murder of a French sailor and terrible revenge--M.

Vaucher and I explore Canton--The _fétes_ in honour of the

Divinity of the North and of the Queen of Heaven--General

appearance of Canton--An emperor's recipe for making tea--How tea

is grown in China--The Fatim garden--A dutiful son--Scene of the

murder of the Tai-Ping rebels--The Temple of the five hundred

Genii--Suicide of a young engineer--Return of his spirit in the

form of a snake 33

CHAPTER III

General Tcheng-Ki-Tong and his book on China--The monuments

of China--Those the Chinese delight to honour--A Chinese

heroine--Ingredients of the "Cup of Immortality"--Avenues of

colossal statues and monsters in cemeteries--Imperial edict in

honour of K'wo-Fan--Proclamation of the eighteenth century--The

Emperor takes his people's sins upon himself--Reasons for

Chinese indifference to matters of faith--Lao-Tsze, or the old

philosopher--His early life--His book, the _Tao-Teh-King_--His

theory of the creation--Affinity of his doctrine with

Christianity--Quotations from his book 57

CHAPTER IV

Lao-Tsze and Confucius compared--The appearance of Kilin, the

fabulous dragon, to the father of Confucius--Early life of the

Philosopher--The death and funeral of his mother--His views on

funeral ceremonies--His visit to the King of Lu and discourse on

the nature of man--Confucius advocates gymnasium exercises--His

love of music--His summary of the whole duty of woman--He

describes the life of a widow--He gives a list of the classes of

men to be avoided in marriage--The seven legitimate reasons for

the divorce of a wife--The three exceptions rendering divorce

illegal--The missionary Gutzlaff's opinion of Confucius' view of

woman's position--The Philosopher meets a man about to commit

suicide--He rescues him from despair--He loses thirteen of his

own followers 73

CHAPTER V

My voyage to Macao--General appearance of the port--Gambling

propensities of the Chinese--Compulsory emigration--Cruel

treatment of coolies on board ship--Disaster on the

Paracelses reefs--The _Baracouns_--The grotto of Camoens--The

_Lusiads_--Contrast between Chinese and Japanese--Origin of the

yellow races: their appearance and language--Relation of the

dwellers in the Arctic regions to the people of China--Russian

and Dutch intercourse with the Celestials--East India Company's

monopoly of trade--Disputes on the opium question--Expiration of

charter--Death of Lord Napier of a broken heart--Lin-Tseh-Hsu

as Governor of the Kwang provinces--The result of his measures

to suppress trade in opium--Treaty of Nanking--War of

1856-1858--Treaty of Tien-tsin and Convention of Pekin--Immense

increase in exports and imports resulting from them 97

CHAPTER VI

French aspirations in Tonkin--Margary receives his

instructions--Work already done on the Yang-tse--Margary

is insulted at Paï-Chou--He awaits instructions in vain at

Lo-Shan--The Tung-Ting lake--A Chinese caravanserai--The explorer

leaves the river to proceed by land--He meets a starving

missionary--Kwei-Chou and the French bishop there--A terrible

road--Arrival at the capital of Yunnan--Armed escort from

Bhâmo--Meeting between Margary and Colonel Browne--Threatening

attitude of natives--Margary crosses the frontier alone--Colonel

Browne's camp surrounded--Murder of Margary outside

Manwyne--Importance of Yunnan and Szechuan to Europeans 118

CHAPTER VII

Sir Thomas Wade demands his passports--Retires to man-of-war

off Tien-tsin--Interviews with Li-Hung-Chang--Convention of

Che-Foo--Description of Ichang on the Yang-tse--The Manchester

of Western China--Pak-hoï and its harbour--A magnificent

pagoda--Ceremony of opening the port to foreign trade--New

Year's _féte_ at Pak-hoï--The game of Morra--Description

of Wenchow--Temples and pagodas turned into inns--Wahn

and its native officials--Dislike of mandarins, etc., to

missionaries--Beautiful surroundings of the town--An eclipse of

the moon expected--The eclipse does not keep time--Excitement

of the people--The dragon attacks the moon at last--Threatening

message from the Emperor to the astronomers--Two astronomers

beheaded in B.C. 2155--Reasons for importance attached to

eclipses in China 135

CHAPTER VIII

I land at Shanghai--The Celestial who had never heard of

Napoleon--Total value of exports and imports to and from

Shanghai--What those exports and imports are--The devotion of

the Chinese to their native land--The true yellow danger of

the future--I am invited to a Chinese dinner at Shanghai--My

yellow guests--The ladies find me amusing--Their small feet

and difficulty in walking--A wealthy mandarin explains why

the feet are mutilated--Sale of girls in China--Position of

women discussed--A mandarin accepts a Bible--Our host takes

us to a flower-boat--Description of boat--My first attempt at

opium-smoking--A Celestial in an opium dream 151

CHAPTER IX

Great commercial value of opium--Cultivation of the

poppy--Exports of opium from India--What opium is--Preparation

of the drug--Opinions on the English monopoly of the trade

in it--Ingenious mode of smuggling opium--Efforts of Chinese

Government to check its importation--Proclamation of the Viceroy

Wang--Opinion of Li-Shi-Shen on the properties of opium--The

worst form of opium smoking--Its introduction to Formosa by the

Dutch--Depopulation of the island--Punishments inflicted on

opium-smokers--Opinions of doctors on the effects of opium-eating

or smoking--Chinese prisoners deprived of their usual pipe--The

real danger to the poor of indulgence in opium--Evidence of

Archibald Little--The Chinese and European pipe contrasted 166

CHAPTER X

Missionary effort in China--First arrival of the

Jesuits--Landing of Michael Roger--Adam Schaal appointed Chief

Minister of State--The scientific work of the Jesuits--Affection

of the young Emperor Kang-Hi for them--Arrival of other

monks--Fatal disputes between them and the Jesuits--The Pope

interferes--Fatal results for the Christians--Speech of

Kang-Hi--Expulsion of the Jesuits--Concessions to Europeans in

newly-opened ports--Hatred of foreigners at Tien-tsin--Arrival of

French nuns--Their mistakes in ignoring native feeling--Chinese

children bought by the Abbé Chevrier--A Chinese merchant's

views on the situation--Terrible accusations against the

Sisters--Murder of the French Consul and his assistant--The

Governor of Tien-tsin responsible--Massacre of the Abbé Chevrier

and one hundred children--The Lady Superior and her nuns cut to

pieces and burnt--The guilty Governor Chung-Ho sent to Paris as

envoy--No proper vengeance exacted by the French--Other sisters

go to Tien-tsin 184

CHAPTER XI

The Great Wall--Its failure as a defence--Forced labour--Mode

of construction--Shih-Hwang-Ti orders all books to be

burnt--Mandarins flung into the flames--The _Shu-King_ is

saved--How the sacred books came to be written--The sedan-chair

and its uses--Modern hotels at Pekin--Examination of students for

degrees--Cells in which they are confined--Kublai Khan conquers

China--Makes Pekin his capital--Introduces paper currency--The

Great Canal--Address to the three Philosophers--Marco Polo's

visit to Pekin--His description of the Emperor--Kublai Khan's

wife--Foundation of the Academy of Pekin--Hin-Heng and his

acquirements--Death of Kublai Khan--Inferiority of his

successors--Shun-Ti the last Mongol Emperor--Pekin in the time of

the Mongols--When seen by Lord Macartney--The city as it is now 205

CHAPTER XII

Fall of the Mongol dynasty--The son of a labourer chosen

Emperor--He founds the Ming dynasty--Choo becomes Tae-tsoo, and

rules with great wisdom--He dies and leaves his kingdom to his

grandson--Young-lo attacks and takes Nanking--The young Emperor

burnt to death--Young-lo is proclaimed Emperor, and makes

Pekin his capital--First European visits China--Tartar chief

usurps supreme power--Dies soon after--Foundation of present

dynasty--Accession of Shun-Che--Chinese compelled to shave their

heads--The old style of coiffure in China--Care of the modern

pig-tail 227

CHAPTER XIII

The Founder of the Ch'ing dynasty--A broken-hearted

widower--The Louis XIV. of China--The Will of

Kang-Hy--Young-t-Ching appointed his successor--The character

of the new Emperor--Mission of Lord Macartney--He refuses

to perform the Ko-too, or nine prostrations--Interview with

Young-t-Ching--Results of the Mission to England--Accession of

Kien-Long--He resolves to abdicate when he has reigned sixty

years--Accession of Taou-Kwang--The beginning of the end--An

adopted brother--War against China declared by England--The Pekin

Treaty--Prince Hassan goes to visit Queen Victoria--The Regents

and Tung-Che--Foreign Ministers compel the young Emperor to

receive them 235

CHAPTER XIV

A child of four chosen Emperor--The power of the Empress

Dowager--The Palace feud--The Palace at Pekin--A Frenchman's

interview with the Emperor--The Emperor's person held

sacred--Coming of age of the Emperor--An enlightened

proclamation--Reception of the foreign ministers in

1889--Education of the young monarch--He goes to do homage at the

tombs of his ancestors--A wife is chosen for him--His secondary

wives--China, the battle-ground of the future--Railway concessions 251

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG. PAGE

1. VIEW OF HONG-KONG TAKEN FROM ABOVE THE TOWN 3

2. CHINESE SOLDIERS 5

3. CHINESE WEAPONS 6

4. CHINESE HELMET AND QUIVER 7

5. A YOUNG CHINESE WOMAN 8

6. A CHINESE COURTESAN 9

7. HWANG-TIEN-SHANG-TI, THE GOD OF HEAVEN 11

8. A CHINESE MANDARIN 15

9. ANCIENT CHINESE COSTUMES 17

10. ANCIENT CHINESE COSTUMES 18

11. A YOUNG CHINESE POET 21

12. A NAUGHTY PUPIL 28

13. A CHINESE BRIDGE SPANNING THE HOANG-HO 31

14. A PAGODA 34

15. A STREET IN CANTON 40

16. A WOMAN OF THE PEOPLE WITH HER BABY 41

17. A CHINESE MANDARIN 42

18. A GONG-RINGER 43

19. A CHINESE ACTOR 44

20. A CHINESE ACTOR IN A TRAGIC PART 47

21. A VILLA NEAR CANTON 51

22. GENERAL TCHENG-KI-TONG 58

23. LAO-TSZE 67

24. THE HOUSE IN WHICH CONFUCIUS WAS BORN 75

25. PORTRAIT OF CONFUCIUS 76

26. A FUNERAL PROCESSION IN CHINA 77

27. CHINESE TOMBS 78

28. A CHINESE CEMETERY 80

29. A YOUNG CHINESE MARRIED LADY 88

30. A MARRIAGE PROCESSION 92

31. A DESPERATE MAN 94

32. THE TOMB OF CONFUCIUS 95

33. CHINESE PEASANT CRUSHING RICE 122

34. A CHINESE FERRYMAN 124

35. A MANDARIN'S HOUSE 127

36. PORTRAIT OF HIS EXCELLENCY LI-HUNG-CHANG 138

37. ICHANG 141

38. A CHINESE DYER AT WORK 143

39. A CHINESE VISITING CARD 144

40. A CHINESE RESTAURANT. AFTER THE REPAST 156

41. A CHINESE JUNK 165

42. AN OPIUM-SMOKER 179

43. OPIUM PIPES 181

44. REQUISITES FOR OPIUM-SMOKING 183

45. A TEMPLE AT TIEN-TSIN 195

46. THE GREAT WALL 206

47. BURNING OF MANDARINS AND HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS,

BY ORDER OF SHIH-KWANG-TI 209

48. A STREET IN PEKIN 214

49. NIGHT-WATCHMEN IN PEKIN 216

50. A CHINESE GENERAL IN HIS WAR-CHARIOT 220

51. PORCELAIN TOWER AT NANKING 222

52. MONOLITHS AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMBS OF THE

MING EMPERORS 231

53. CHINESE BRONZES 233

54. PORTRAIT OF ONE OF THE CHINESE EMPERORS OF THE

CH'ING DYNASTY, PROBABLY KIEN-LONG 242

55. ONE OF THE REGENTS DURING THE MINORITY OF TUNG-CHE 249

56. A CHINESE SEDAN-CHAIR AND BEARERS 255

57. A BONZE TORTURING HIMSELF IN A TEMPLE, AFTER A

CHINESE PAINTING 260

58. THE TOWN AND BRIDGE OF FUCHAN 265

CHINA AND THE CHINESE

CHAPTER I

The delight of exploring unknown lands--Saint Louis and the Tartars of

olden times--The Anglo-French force enters Pekin--Terror of the "Red

Devils"--The "Cup of Immortality"--The "Sons of Heaven"--Hong-Kong as

it was and is--The Treaty of Tien-tsin--The game of "Morra"--First

Tea-party in the Palace of Pekin--Chinese agriculture and love of

flowers--Chinese literati--An awkward meeting between two of them--Love

of poetry in China--Voltaire's letter to the poet-king--The Chinese

army--The _Shu-King_, or sacred book of China--Yao and his work--Chung,

the lowly-born Emperor--The Hoang-Ho, or "China's Sorrow"--Yu the engineer

and his work--Chung chooses Yu to reign after him--The foundation of the

hereditary monarchy in China.

I do not deny the happiness of a life spent beneath the shadow of the

belfry of one's native place, in all the unruffled peace of one's own

home, surrounded by one's own family; but, after all, what are such

joys as these compared to those of the explorer who goes forth to meet

the unknown ready for all that may betide, making fresh discoveries at

every turn, gladly facing all dangers and rejoicing in the ever-changing,

ever-widening horizon before him? Who would care to forego the joys of

memory, the power of living over again in old age the adventures of youth,

of seeing once more with the mind's eye the wonders of the far-distant

lands visited when the mind was still buoyant, the sight still undimmed,

the limbs still in all the vigour of manhood? Happy mortal indeed is he

who, thoroughly imbued with the spirit of the discoverer, looks upon death

itself not as the end of all things, but the threshold of a new world, the

beginning of yet another journey fraught with the deepest interest, to a

bourne all the more fascinating because of the deep mystery in which it is

shrouded.

This was how I reasoned with myself when I was a mere lad eagerly

devouring the accounts of the work of the great early explorers, Marco

Polo, the Dupleix, La Pérouse, Bougainville, Dumont D'Urville, Christopher

Columbus, Mungo Park, the Landers, etc., not to speak of Swift's

fascinating romance _Gulliver's Travels_, and the yet more thrilling

_Robinson Crusoe_ of Defoe. Like all boys with vivid imaginations, I was

fired with a longing to emulate all these heroes, and said to my mother:

"I have made up my mind to be a sailor!"

[Sidenote: HONG-KONG]

[Illustration: FIG. 1.--VIEW OF HONG-KONG TAKEN FROM ABOVE THE TOWN.]

My ardour was, however, quickly quenched when I saw my mother's beautiful

eyes fill with tears at the thought of parting from me. This did not

prevent me from leaving France a few years later, for I found myself

whilst still quite a young man free to go whither I would, and I made

up my mind to make many a long and interesting journey. Of course I

expected to meet with dangers and misfortunes, but I felt sure that any

such drawbacks would be more than counterbalanced by the grand sights it

would be my privilege to witness. My anticipations were in every way fully

realized, and if after wandering all over the world I refrain from saying

with Terence: "I am a man, and nothing in the nature of man is strange to

me;" it is merely because poets alone are privileged to speak with such

egotistical assurance.

I had already spent a considerable time in Oceania and a few months in

Egypt, when I landed at Hong-Kong on the very threshold of the ancient

Chinese Empire, which, according to well-authenticated annals, is older

even than the mighty and venerable Egypt of the Pharaohs. I went to China

as much to study her past on the spot as to be one of the first to hail

that transformation which, when I arrived, was already on the eve of its

inauguration, and is now rapidly becoming an accomplished fact. There was,

indeed, urgent need for haste if I wished to study that moribund China

so long closed to Europeans before the great change came, and cared to

gaze upon her far-stretching table-lands girt about by heights crowned

with never-melting snow, ere their solitudes were broken in upon by the

desecrating steam-engine, in districts whence in mediæval times great

hordes of yellow-skinned, fierce-eyed barbarians, their long black hair

floating on their shoulders, swept westward to devastate Europe.

[Illustration: FIG. 2.--CHINESE SOLDIERS.]

[Sidenote: SAINT LOUIS OF FRANCE]

In those days five hundred thousand Tartars invaded Russia, took

possession of Moscow, burnt Cracow, and penetrated as far as Hungary.

Saint Louis of France, who was then on the throne, stood in the greatest

dread of them, but this did not prevent him from making a joke about them,

quoted by the Sieur de Joinville, which, considering the state of affairs

at the time, speaks well for his pluck and sense of humour. "Mother," he

said to Queen Blanche of Castille, "if these Tartars come here, we must

make them go back to the Tartarus from which they come!"

[Illustration: FIG. 3.--CHINESE WEAPONS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 4.--CHINESE HELMET AND QUIVER.]

[Sidenote: WHOLESALE SUICIDE]

Time, however, never fails to bring about the poetic justice of revenge.

Six centuries after the sack of Cracow a little Anglo-French force

entered Pekin with drums beating and flags flying, pillaged the Imperial

Palaces, and returned to Europe laden with rich spoil. Chinese, Tartars,

Mongols, and Manchus had all alike allowed themselves to be beaten by

a mere handful of resolute men. What had they to oppose to European

tactics, European weapons, and above all European discipline? Bows and

arrows, old-fashioned muskets, spears, and shields adorned with fantastic;

designs. There, was nothing for them to do but to run away; not that they

were cowards, for they never have any fear of death, but simply because

resistance was hopeless. Most of the generals in command of the army

followed the usual custom in cases of defeat, and voluntarily emptied the

bowl of poisoned opium to save themselves from being triumphed over by

their enemies. At Pekin, Canton, and many other centres of population in

the vast Empire, the terrified women flung themselves into the wells to

escape the violent death they expected the "red devils" would otherwise

have inflicted on them. Only some forty years ago what did that immense

multitude of Asiatic men and women know about us Europeans? Just about as

much and no more than we did of them. One thing only is certain, that in

the heroic days of the founders of the dynasty, from Hwang-Ti, the yellow

Emperor, to Khiang-Luanh, the poet sovereign more than one ruler of China

had drunk from the cup of immortality, that is to say, the cup of poison,

rather than live to see the enemy enter his palaces as a conqueror.

Enervated by a long course of self-indulgence, the Sons of Heaven, as the

Emperors of China proudly style themselves, have degenerated terribly, and

what with their own weakness and the arrogant encroachments of the eunuchs

who guard the Imperial harem, many of the sovereigns would have been

deposed, but for the intervention, now of an Empress-Dowager, now of some

favourite wife, who, seizing the reins of power, has wielded the sceptre

with virile strength and skill.

[Illustration: FIG. 5.--A YOUNG CHINESE WOMAN.]

[Sidenote: TWO POTENT POISONS]

In 1851, when the English took possession of the island of Hong-Kong, it

was but a rugged conical-shaped rock, dreary and forbidding in appearance.

The Chinese then living on it were enraged at the intrusion of the

foreigners, and one of them, the only baker on the island, resolved to

dispose of all the intruders at one blow. He decided to poison them, and

with this end in view he put arsenic into all the bread he supplied to

the foreigners. He over-reached himself, for the dose was too strong, and

suspicion was at once aroused. Those who tasted the bread escaped with

violent sickness, and the English were not going to abandon the place for

a reason so insignificant as that.

[Illustration: FIG. 6.--A CHINESE COURTESAN.]

Hong-Kong is now a maritime port of the first rank, and its harbour is

one of the finest and most beautiful in the whole world. The town boasts

of hotels managed on the European system, and the slopes of the rocks

are covered from the sea-shore to the highest point of the island with

tasty villas. It is to opium, that other poison responsible for the death

of so many Celestials, and as potent in its effects as the arsenic with

which the patriotic baker tried to kill off all the foreigners, that

Hong-Kong owes its immense prosperity. The French did much to aid the

English in inaugurating that prosperity in 1857 and 1858, when they joined

them as allies in the brief campaign which resulted in the taking of

Canton and the signing of the celebrated Treaty of Tien-tsin. The various

stipulations of that treaty, the full significance of which the Chinese do

not seem to have realized at the time, included the right to the allies

of appointing diplomatic agents to the Court of Pekin, and the opening of

five fresh ports to European commerce, whilst a strip of territory on the

mainland, opposite to the island of Hong-Kong, was ceded to the British

colony. The benefits which accrued to France were small, but the increase

of British trade was enormous, and from that time to this the grand

harbour has been: one of the chief naval stations of the East.

In spite of its prosperity and importance, however, the town is anything

but a pleasant place to stop in, and the foreign visitor soon gets tired

of being jostled about by busy coolies and tipsy sailors. The great

delight of the latter is to get drunk in the brandy-stores of Victoria

Street, and then to dance, not, strange to say, with women, but without

partners, to the music of a violin and a big drum. In the evening the

floating and resident population alike resort in crowds to the opium-dens

and houses of ill fame in the upper portions of the town. No one seems

to feel any shame at being seen to enter these places, the windows of

which are wide open, so that all can look into the brightly illuminated

rooms, whence proceeds the sound of oaths in all manner of languages,

whilst the loud clash of gongs mingles with the muffled songs of the

Chinese beauties, and every now and then a shower of crackers is flung

into the street below, bursting into zigzags of fire on the heads of the

startled passers-by. In the eyes of the masters of the island, the intense

commercial activity of the day atones for the dissipations of the night.

[Illustration: FIG. 7.--HWANG-TIEN-SHANG TI, THE GOD OF HEAVEN.

(_In the Guinet Museum._)]

[Sidenote: THE GAME OF MORRA]

Contact with Europeans has, however, done little if anything to modify the

ideas and customs of the Chinese. A few of the great native merchants,

it is true, are willing now and then to drink a glass of champagne with

the representatives of foreign houses, and teach them the game of Morra,

which, strange to say, is to all intents and purposes the same as that

played all over Italy, and is so well described by Mrs. Eaton in her _Rome

in the Nineteenth Century_. "Morra," she says, "is played by the men, and

merely consists in holding up in rapid succession any number of fingers

they please, calling out at the same time the number their antagonist

shows.... Morra seems to differ in no respect from the _Micure Digitis_

of the Ancient Romans." If it be a fact, as some assert, that the various

races of the world are more truly themselves in their games than in their

work, this similarity in a pastime played by people so different as the

Chinese and the Italians, would have a deep psychological significance.

However that may be, drinking champagne and playing Morra together do

not lead to any real friendship or intimacy between the Celestials and

their hated foreign guests. There is not, and it seems as if there never

could be, any true _rapprochement_, and this fact is at the root of the

anxiety of statesmen for the future, in spite of the apparent progress

made in the introduction of European ideas into the very stronghold of

Chinese fanaticism, the Palace of Pekin, where a few months ago, on the

occasion of her birthday, the Dowager Empress held that first reception of

European ladies which was hailed by the European press as the commencement

of a new era for China. An account of this historic tea-party may well

be added here, for its being given was truly among the most remarkable

events which have taken place in the century now so near its close. It

seems that Lady Macdonald, the wife of the British Minister, was the prime

mover in bringing about this startling innovation in the customs of the

most conservative of all modern nations. The fact that it was the guests

themselves who compelled the hostess to invite them, detracted not at all

from the cordiality of their reception. Received at the entrance to the

precincts of the Palace by numerous mandarins in brilliant costumes, the

visitors were carried on State chairs to the electric tramway, strange

anomaly in such a stronghold of retrogression as the capital of the

Celestial Empire, and thence escorted to the audience-chamber by a group

of ladies of the Court specially selected to attend them.

[Sidenote: A STRANGE TEA-PARTY]

In the throne-room, the Empress and her unfortunate son, the nominal

ruler of China, were seated side by side on a raised dais, behind a table

decorated with apples and chrysanthemums in the simple but effective

Chinese manner. Presents and compliments were exchanged, a grand luncheon

was served, over which the Princess Ching presided, and when tea was

handed round later the Dowager Empress again appeared and sipped a little

of the national beverage from the cup of each minister's wife. Finally,

when the time for leave-taking came, the astute Dowager, giving way to an

apparently uncontrollable burst of emotion, embraced all her visitors in

turn. Time alone can prove whether this kiss were indeed one of peace or

of future betrayal. In the eyes of the Court officials and their ladies it

must have appeared far more startling than any of the political changes

with which the air is rife.

The Chinese people, who know next to nothing of what is going on, and are

more ignorant of the transformation taking place than even illiterate

Europeans, are as indifferent to the past as to the future; they have been

accustomed for centuries to obey unchanging laws of a wisdom acknowledged

by even hostile critics; and startling innovation touching their own lives

is the one thing which moves them out of their constitutional apathy.

Agriculture is the favourite occupation of the Chinese, and they consider

the tilling of the ground almost a religious duty. It has been customary

for many ages for the supreme ruler to turn over a few furrows at the

beginning of the agricultural year, that is to say the spring, and in

all the provinces of the vast empire a similar ceremony is performed by

the delegate of the Emperor. Flowers are everywhere cultivated, though

generally in pots, with an enthusiasm amounting to passion, and marvellous

skill is shown in the growing of dwarf trees, which produce quantities

of fruit. In a word, vegetation in China is stamped with an originality

setting it apart from that of any other country. In irrigation and the use

of manure Chinese gardeners were long far in advance of western nations.

The chief ambition of every native of China is to leave behind him sons

who on his death will give to his memory the homage he himself rendered

to that of his own father, for it is in the reverence in which ancestors

are held that the Chinese concentrate all their religious feeling. Even

Shang-Ti, or the God of Heaven, Buddha, Lao-tsze, and Confucius only take

secondary rank as compared with these ancestors.

[Sidenote: CHINESE LITERATI]

The Literati, or scholars of China, have won their much-coveted

distinction by many very severe examinations in the so-called King, or

the five sacred books, and in the works of the great philosophers. Armed

with the diploma securing to him the rank of a scholar, its fortunate

possessor may aspire to the very highest functions of the empire. So very

many win that diploma, however, and the numbers increase so rapidly every

year, that, as in France and in England, there are not enough appointments

for those qualified to receive them. In spite of this, the scholar even

when out of place commands the respect of all who have not been promoted

to the grade he has won. In his interesting account of his travels in

Asia, Marcel Monnier gives a very pregnant illustration of the state of

things I have been describing.

[Illustration: FIG. 8.--A CHINESE MANDARIN.]

"As I was leaving the rampart," he says, "I witnessed a curious scene

illustrative of the esteem in which--in this land where an hereditary

aristocracy does not exist--is held the one ennobling rank, that of being

the owner of a paper diploma. My bearers had just entered a very narrow

causeway between two rice-fields, when they were suddenly brought to a

halt by another chair coming from the opposite direction. This chair was

occupied by a young man in elegant attire, wearing spectacles, and with

a general air about him of being pleased with himself. Apparently he was

a scholar fresh from examinations. The bearers on each side parleyed

together, but neither seemed disposed to yield place to the others. The

discussion seemed likely to be interminable, when the scholar intervened,

and addressing the chief of my bearers, shouted haughtily to him:

"'Why don't you get out of the way of a licentiate of Kan-Su?'

"My chief porter, a big sturdy fellow of about forty, did not move, but

without budging an inch replied with equal haughtiness:

"'A licentiate? And of what year, pray?'

"Then without giving the other time to answer, he quickly dived into the

little leather-bag hanging from his waist-band, brought out a greasy

paper, and proudly unfolded it as if it were a flag, before the eyes of

his astonished questioner.

"'Look!' he said.

"The young man took the paper with the very tips of his fingers, but he

had scarcely glanced at the magic inscription on it before he handed it

back with a respectful inclination of the head, at the same time ordering

his men to withdraw. My porter, too, had his diploma, and he had had it

for a long time. That of recent date had to give way to the earlier one.

My chair passed on in triumph, whilst that of the newly-created scholar

humbly waited at the side of the road in the rice-field."

[Illustration: FIG. 9.--ANCIENT CHINESE COSTUMES.

(_Univers Pittoresque._)]

[Sidenote: CHINESE HONESTY]

The Chinese have the trading instinct as fully developed as have the

descendants of Shem. They carry on commerce with the same wonderful

_finesse_, the same keen eye for a bargain, and they are as fond of money

as the Jews themselves. At the same time in really important affairs they

are as much to be trusted, as thoroughly loyal to the other side, as any

great merchant of the City of London, or the _Rue du Sentier_ in the

French capital. These Chinese traders gave credit for enormous sums to the

first foreign firms which had the audacity to found the Canton factories.

On the faith of their signatures alone guaranteeing eventual payment,

the heads of these foreign firms found themselves trusted with whole

cargoes of tea and silks. After the failure of the Union Bank, of the

_Comptoir national d'Escompte_, and certain great American houses, this

giving of credit was discontinued, but that it was ever granted remains a

most significant fact. One proof of the extreme caution which succeeded

the extraordinary confidence is, that there are no branches of the great

Chinese firms of Shanghai and Hong-Kong in Paris, Marseilles, or Lyons.

This is really no great loss, for the West will be invaded all too soon by

the yellow races.

[Illustration: FIG. 10.--ANCIENT CHINESE COSTUMES.

(_Univers Pittoresque._)]

[Sidenote: BONZES AND BONZESSES]

In Asia there are many more mystic dreamers and poets than is generally

supposed. A Chinese mystic is called a bonze, or talapoin, the former word

being of Japanese origin, introduced to China by Europeans. Women who

devote themselves to a religious life are called bonzesses, but as certain

abuses crept in of a kind which can readily be imagined, a very wise law

was passed some time ago forbidding any woman to become a priestess till

after her fortieth year, and certain censors have long advocated a yet

further higher limit of age.

Amongst young women of the higher classes in the remote East, especially

amongst those whose beauty destines them for the harem, poetry is

held in high esteem. On the richly-lacquered screens and on the

delicately-coloured fans so popular in China, are many representations

of frail Chinese or Japanese beauties, tracing certain letters of the

Mandarin alphabet with a fine pencil held in their tapering fingers with

the characteristic pink nails. The words formed by these letters make up

poetic phrases imbued with all the freshness and grace of the fair young

girls who transcribe them. In them are sung the praises of the flowers

of the hawthorn, the peach-tree, the sweet-briar, and even of a certain

savoury tea. More than one Chinese Emperor has done homage to the Muses,

and the most celebrated of these crowned poets was Khian-Lung, of the

Tartar Manchu dynasty, who died at the end of the eighteenth century,

and to whom Voltaire addressed the celebrated letter in verse of which

the royal recipient was probably only able to understand, and that with

considerable difficulty, the last few lines of which are quoted here:

Receive, Celestial King, the compliments I write

To one whose mighty throne stands on a double height!

The western world knows well, in spite of all my crimes,

I have a deep regard for monarchs who make rhymes.

O thou whose soul is lit by Art's poetic fires,

I pray thee tell me if your prosody requires

That you in far Pekin, like us, must e'en submit

To bind your thoughts in rules to make the tenses fit?

Thus, if you choose to take the Alexandrine beat.

Two equal lines must walk on six plain, equal feet,

And so, one half for rhyme, the other for the sense,

The whole of one great work to half you may condense!

The fame of two other Chinese poets, who flourished in the eighth century

of our era, has also come down to us. These were Tchu-Fu and Li-Tai-Pé,

who, as was Malherbe in France, were the first to reform poetry in their

native land, laying down certain rules, which are still observed in the

present day.

The peace enjoyed for so long a period by the country under consideration

has led to the profession of arms being held of small account. Until quite

recently all the "warriors" had to do was to put down local revolts, or to

win for themselves a good drubbing from some aggrieved foreigner.

[Illustration: FIG. 11.--A YOUNG CHINESE POET.

(_Univers Pittoresque._)]

[Sidenote: THE CHINESE ARMY]

The weakness and defective organization of Asiatic armies is well known,

and is proved afresh at every contact with a European force. The thorough

inefficiency of that of China was forcibly brought out in the recent

war with Japan, when the latter country showed itself to be so far in

advance of its antagonist in every way. Nothing but drilling by European

officers, for at least half a century, could make Chinese soldiers at

all formidable to white troops. It is just the same with the people of

the Corea, Annam, Tonquin, and Siam. It will, of course, be urged: but

look at the Japanese, they too belong to the despised yellow races, yet

have they not proved themselves able to organize a campaign? are they

not full of warlike energy and martial ability? do they not also take

high rank as imaginative artists? In what do the white races excel? To

all these queries we reply, the assumption that the Japanese belong to

the same race as the yellow natives of the continent of Asia has to be

proved. The children of the land of chrysanthemums and of the rising sun

indignantly repel this hypothesis, and such authorities on ethnology as

Kœmpfer, Golownin, Klaproth, and Siebold also reject it. Moreover, in this

world everything is relative, and because the Japanese troops, armed with

weapons of precision, were able to beat the badly-equipped Chinese forces,

it does not follow that they could do the same if pitted against European

soldiers. Whether they could or not still remains to be proved.

Before penetrating into the interior of the country, and studying the

actual customs of the inhabitants at the present day, it will be well

to glance back to the remote times when China first became a nation.

Very interesting details of those early days have been preserved in the

traditions of the Celestials, and from them we gather that the first

dwellers in the land lived, as did so many of the races of Europe, in the

forests, or in caves, clothing themselves in the skins of the wild beasts

slain in the chase, whose flesh supplied them with food.

The first efforts at civilization appear to have been made in the

North-west of the vast country, amongst the tribes camped on the banks

of the Hoang-Ho, or Yellow River. The chiefs of these tribes gradually

contracted the habit of making regular marriages, and living a home life

with their families. To protect their wives and children they built huts;

they discovered how to make fire, and with its aid to fashion agricultural

implements and weapons. They knew how to distinguish plants good for

food from those dangerous to human life; they fixed precise dates for

the commencement of each of the four seasons; invented various systems

of calligraphy, finally adopting the one still in use; and they acquired

the art of weaving silk and cotton, which, according to the eminent

sinologist, Leblois of Strasburg, recently deceased, they learnt from

watching spiders at work.

[Sidenote: THSIN-CHI-HWANG-TI]

Until the third century B.C. China was divided into small states,

the weaker tributary to the stronger, the latter independent. The

too-celebrated Emperor Thsin-Chi-Hwang-Ti, who two hundred years before

the Christian era ordered the destruction by fire of all books, united

the various little kingdoms into one, and it was only in his time that

the Chinese Empire properly so called began. At this period, too, the

name of Thsina, or China, originally that of the district governed by the

incendiary, came to be given to the whole country.

The most important historical documents are those making up what is called

the _Shu-King_, dating from about B.C. 500, and written by a certain

Kwang-Tsen. This valuable book has been translated into French by P.

Gaubil and L. Biot, and its history is very romantic. It was supposed

that every copy had been burnt by the agents of Thsin-Chi-Hwang-Ti, but

an old literate, Fu Chang by name, had learnt it by heart, and later, one

copy engraved on pieces of bamboo was found hidden in the wall of an old

house which was being pulled down.

This sacred book, which is indeed a literary treasure, is now more than

2300 years old, and it contains extracts from works yet more ancient, so

that it is the very best guide in existence to the early history of China.

It begins with a description of a chief named Yao, who, according to

official Chinese chronology, flourished some 2350 years before the

Christian era. If the portrait is not flattered, Yao must have been a

perfect man. He lived in the province now known as Chen-si, and, like some

great illumination, he attracted to himself all the barbaric hordes in

the neighbourhood. His first care was to teach them to honour the Shang

Ti, or Tien, that is to say, the Supreme God. He also employed certain

men to watch the course of the heavenly bodies, or rather to continue the

study of the stars begun before his time, not from any curiosity as to the

science of astronomy strictly so called, but that agriculturists might

learn the right seasons for the work they had to perform. According to

the _Shu-King_ the year was already divided in China into 366 days, and

these days into four very strictly-defined periods, beginning at the times

enumerated below:

[Sidenote: THE WISDOM OF YAO]

1. The day and night of equal length, marking the middle of the spring

season, or what is now known in Europe as the Equinox.

2. The longest day, marking the middle of the summer, now called the

summer solstice.

3. The day and night of equal length, marking the middle of the autumn.

4. The shortest day, marking the middle of the winter solstice.

Yao having asked for a man capable of aiding him to govern his people

well, his own son was the first to be suggested as a suitable person, but

he was rejected, the father saying: "He is deficient in rectitude, and

fond of disputing." Another candidate was sent away because he did a great

deal of unnecessary talking about things of no value, and pretended to

be humble although his pride was really boundless. Then a certain Chung

was brought forward, renowned for his virtues in spite of his obscure

birth. Although he was the son of a blind father and of a wicked mother

who treated him cruelly, whilst his brother was puffed up with excessive

pride, Chung yet loyally performed his filial duties, and even succeeded

as it were unconsciously in correcting the errors of his relations, and

saving them from the commission of serious crimes. He was quoted as the

greatest known example of the practice of that most honoured of all

virtues in China, filial piety, which is looked upon by the Celestials as

the source of every good action of justice and of humanity.

Chung therefore was chosen, and he did not disappoint the hopes Yao had

founded upon his rectitude and ability. The sacred book praises the

justice of his administration, and he succeeded Yao on that great ruler's

death, proving that the hereditary principle was considered dangerous

in China even at that remote date. He commenced his reign by offering

to the Supreme God, and performed the customary ceremonies in honour of

the mountains, the flowers and the spirits, then held in veneration. He

took the greatest pains to ensure that justice should be done to all. It

is evident that there were schools in his day, for he gave orders that

nothing but the bamboo should be used for the correction of insubordinate

pupils. Chung wished faults committed without malice prepense to be

pardoned, but severe punishments to be inflicted on the incorrigible and

on those who abused their strength or their authority. He was anxious,

however, that judges under him should temper their justice with mercy.

[Sidenote: A LOWLY-BORN RULER]

The ministers of state had names suggesting a pastoral origin, for they

were all called Mon, a word answering to our shepherd. When Chung gave

them their appointments, he would say to them: "You must treat those who

come from a distance with humanity, instruct those who are near to you,

esteem and encourage men of talent, believe in the virtuous and charitable

and confide in them, and lastly have nothing to do with those whose

manners are corrupt." He would also say to them sometimes: "If I do wrong

you must tell me of it; you would be to blame if you praise me to my face

and speak differently of me when my back is turned."

The _Shu-King_ tells us further that having appointed a man skilled in

music to teach that art to the children of the great ones of his kingdom,

Chung said to him: "See that your pupils are sincere and polite, ready to

make allowances for others, obliging and sedate; teach them to be firm

without being cruel; inculcate discernment, but take care that they do not

become conceited." He appointed a censor to preside over public meetings

where speeches were made, saying to him: "I have an extreme aversion for

those who use inflammatory language; their harangues sow discord, and do

much to injure the work of those who endeavour to do good; the excitement

and the fears they arouse lead to public disorders."

Would it not be well for a similar formula to be pasted up in every place

of public meeting at the present day?

Every three years Chung instituted an inquiry into the conduct of the

officials in his dominions, recompensing those who had done well, and

punishing those who had done ill. Few other sovereigns have merited the

eulogy pronounced on Chung by one of his ministers: "His virtues, said the

critic, are not tarnished by faults. In the care he takes of his subjects,

he shows great moderation, and in his government his grandeur of soul

is manifest If he has to punish, _the punishment does not descend from

parents to children;_ but if he has to give a reward, the benefit extends

to the descendants of those recompensed. With regard to involuntary

errors, he pardons them without inquiring whether they are great or small.

Voluntary faults, however apparently trivial, he punishes. In doubtful

cases the penalty inflicted is light, but if a service rendered is in

question, the reward is great. He would rather run the risk of letting

a criminal escape the legal punishment than of putting an innocent

person to death." The same minister thus defines a fortunate man: "He

is one who knows how to combine prudence with indulgence, determination

with integrity, reserve with frankness, humility with great talents,

consistency with complaisance, justice and accuracy with gentleness,

moderation with discernment, a high spirit with docility, and power with

equity."

[Illustration: FIG. 12.--A NAUGHTY PUPIL.]

[Sidenote: A BOASTFUL ENGINEER]

The Hoang-Ho, or Yellow River, the mighty stream which rises in Thibet

and flings itself into the Gulf of Pechili after a course of some 3000

miles, had from time immemorial been the cause of constant and terrible

catastrophes in the districts it traversed. Chung therefore sent for

a talented engineer named Yu, and ordered him to superintend the work

of making canals and embankments to remedy the evil. There had been

a specially destructive inundation just before this appointment, and

the sacred book contains Yu's own account of what he had accomplished,

couched, it must be owned, in anything but modest terms. "When," he says,

"the great flood reached to heaven; when it surrounded the mountains and

covered the hills, the unfortunate inhabitants were overwhelmed by the

waters. Then I climbed on to the four means of transport. I followed the

mountains, and I cut through the woods. I laid up stores of grain and meat

to feed the people. I made channels for the river, compelling them to flow

towards the sea. In the country I dug canals to connect the rivers with

each other. I planted seed in the earth, and by dint of work something to

live upon was won from the soil."

The memory of these vast undertakings has remained engraven on the minds

of the Chinese, and they still think of Yu with undying gratitude. For

all that, however, the Hoang-Ho has continued to be a menace to the

Empire, for in 1789, and again in 1819, it overflowed its banks, causing

a considerable amount of damage to property, and killing countless

numbers of the river-side population. Only twelve years ago the

wayward river, justly called by the sufferers from its ravages "China's

sorrow," burst its southern embankment near Chang-Chan in the inland

province of Shen-Hsi, and poured in one great mass over the whole of the

densely-populated Honan, drowning millions of helpless people, and undoing

the work of centuries. In a word, what the erratic river will do next is

one of the chief problems of the physical future of China. It has already

shifted its course no less than nine times in its troubled career; and

on account of the great rapidity of its stream it is of little use for

navigation. Could Yu have foreseen the destruction of all the grand works

of which he boasted, he would probably have taken a less exalted view of

what he had accomplished.

However that may be, his contemporaries were so impressed by his ability,

and the great Chung so admired his virtue and talent, that he was chosen

as heir in the life-time of that mighty sovereign. The dialogue said to

have taken place between the Emperor and his subject on the question of

the succession to the throne is curious and interesting:

"Come," said Chung to Yu, "I have been reigning for thirty-three years; my

advanced age and growing infirmities prevent me from giving the necessary

application to affairs of state. I wish you to reign instead. Do your

utmost to acquit yourself worthily of the task."

"I am not virtuous enough to govern well," replied Yu; "the people will

not obey me."

He then recommended some one else.

Chung, however, insisted in the following terms:

"When we had everything to fear from the great inundation, you worked

with eagerness and rectitude; you rendered the greatest services, and

your talents and wisdom were made manifest throughout the whole country.

Although you have led an unassuming life with your family, although you

have served the State well, you have not considered that a reason to

dispense with work, and this is no ordinary virtue. You have no pride;

there is no one in the country superior to you in good qualities. None

other has done such great things, and yet you do not set a high value on

your own conduct. There is no one in the country whose merit excels your

own."

[Illustration: FIG. 13.--A CHINESE BRIDGE SPANNING THE HUANG-HO.]

[Sidenote: YU BECOMES EMPEROR]

So Yu became chief ruler, and his name was associated by posterity with

that of Yao and of Chung. The sacred book has preserved many of his

sayings, and I will quote the most beautiful here:

"He who obeys reason is happy, he who resists it is unhappy. Virtue is the

foundation of good government; the first task of government is to provide

the people governed with all that is necessary for their subsistence and

preservation. The next thing is to make the population virtuous; to teach

them the proper use of everything; and lastly, to protect them from all

which jeopardizes their health or their life. The prince who understands

men well will appoint none to public offices but those who are wise; his

generous heart and liberality will win him love."

When Yu died, the chiefs of the people unfortunately failed to carry on

the custom of choosing as a successor to the throne the wisest and most

illustrious of their number. The law of hereditary right was recognized,

and dynasties henceforth succeeded each other in China as elsewhere, each

lasting a long or short time according to whether the people were or were

not satisfied. There was, however, one salutary exception to the usual

interpretation of the hereditary principle. The reigning Emperor could

choose as his successor the son he considered the most intelligent of his

children; and as a Chinese ruler generally has at least fifty children,

without counting the girls, there is no difficulty in making a selection.

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