CHAPTER XXIX.

About Herrnhut -- Persecutions in Moravia -- A Wandering

Carpenter -- Good Tidings -- Fugitives -- Squatters on the

Hutberg -- Count Zinzendorf's Steward -- The First Tree --

The First House -- Scoffers -- Origin of the Name -- More

Fugitives -- Foundation of the Union -- Struggles and

Encouragements -- Buildings -- Social Regulations -- Growth

of Trade -- War and Visitors -- Dürninger's Enterprise --

Population -- Schools -- Settlements -- Missions -- Life at

Herrnhut -- Recreations -- Festivals -- Incidents of War --

March of Troops -- Praise and Thank-Feasts.

While I sat by the monument of the first tree, and lingered in the

glow of sunset at the pavilion, a desire came upon me to know

something more of the history of Herrnhut. I partly gratify it in the

present chapter.

When the sanguinary Hussite wars ended in the triumph of the Jesuits,

there remained in Bohemia and Moravia numbers of godly-minded

Protestants, who, as the oppressor grew in strength, were forbidden

the free exercise of their religion. They worshipped by stealth,

hiding in caves and thickets, and suffered frightful persecution; but

remained steadfast, and formed a union among themselves for mutual

succour, and became the United Brethren. Their chief settlements were

at Fulnek, in Moravia, and Lititz, in Bohemia. Though professing the

principles of the earliest Christian church, many of them embraced the

doctrines of Luther and Calvin, whereby they subjected themselves to

aggravated persecutions; and cruelly were they smitten by the

calamities of the Thirty Years' War.

About 1710 a Roman Catholic carpenter set out from the little Moravian

village, Senftleben, to fulfil his three "wander-years," and gain

experience in his trade. While working at Berlin, he frequented the

Evangelical Lutheran church; and afterwards at Görlitz the impression

made on his mind by a Lutheran preacher was such that he went back to

his home a Protestant. He was a bringer of good tidings to some of his

relatives who were among the persecuted. He could tell them of a

kingdom beyond the frontier where they might worship unmolested; of a

youthful Count Zinzendorf, who had large estates in the hill-country

of Saxony, and was already known as a benefactor to such as suffered

for conscience' sake.

It was on Whit-Monday, 1722, that Christian David--so the carpenter

was named--brought the news. Three days later, two families, numbering

ten persons, abandoned their homes, and under David's guidance came

safely to Görlitz, after a nine days' journey. On the 8th of June the

four men travelled to Hennersdorf, the residence of Zinzendorf's

grandmother, who placed them under charge of the land-steward, with

instructions that houses should be built for them. But as the steward

wrote to his master, "the good people seek for the present a place

only under which they may creep with wife and children, until houses

be set up." After much consideration, it was resolved to build on the

_Hutberg_, a hill traversed by the road from Loebau to Zittau--then a

miserable track, in which vehicles sank to their axles. "God will

help," replied the steward to one of his friends, who doubted the

finding of water on the spot; and on the two following mornings he

rose before the sun and went upon the hill to observe the mists. What

he saw led him to believe in the existence of a spring; whereupon he

took courage, and, as he tells the Count, "I laid the miseries and

desires of these people before the Lord with hot tears, and besought

Him that His hand might be with me, and prevent wherein my intentions

were unpleasing to Him. Further I said, On this place will I build the

first house for them in thy name."

A temporary residence was found for the fugitives; the benevolent

grandmother gave a cow that the children might have milk; and on June

17th, as already mentioned, the first tree was felled by Christian

David. On the 11th of August the house was erected; the preacher at

Berthelsdorf took occasion to refer to it as "a light set on the hill

to enlighten the whole land;" and in October it was taken possession

of with prayer and thanksgiving, the exiles singing from their

hearts--

"Jerusalem! God's city thou."

The steward, writing about this time to inform the Count of his

proceedings, says: "May God bless the work according to His goodness,

and procure that your excellency may build on the hill called the

_Hutberg_ a city which not only may stand under the _Herrn Hut_

(Lord's protection), but all dwellers upon the _Lord's watch_, so that

day and night there be no silence among them." Here we have the origin

of the name of the place.

Meanwhile, the neighbourhood laughed and joked about the building of

a house in so lonely a spot, where it must soon perish; and still more

when the digging for the spring was commenced. The land-steward had

much ado to keep the labourers to their work. Fourteen days did they

dig in vain; but in the third week they came to moist gravel, and soon

water streamed forth in superabundance.

On December 21st the Count arrived with his newly-married wife, and

was surprised at sight of a house in a place which he had left a

forest. He went in; spoke words of comfort to the inmates, and falling

on his knees, prayed earnestly for protection.

In the next year, Christian David journeyed twice into Moravia. The

priests, angered at the departure of the first party, had worried

their relatives, and forbade them to emigrate under penalty of

imprisonment. Would not let them live in peace at home, nor let them

go. Aided, however, by the messenger, twenty-six persons forsook their

little possessions, their all, and stole away by night. "Goods left

behind," says the historian, "but faith in their Father in the heart."

They reached the asylum, where, by the spring of 1724, five new houses

were ready to receive them.

In this year came other fugitives, experienced in the church

discipline of the old Moravian Brethren; and as the number yet

increased, they besought the Count to institute the same constitution

and discipline in Herrnhut. But differences of opinion arose, and for

three years the harmony and permanence of the colony were seriously

endangered. The Count, however, was not a man to shrink from a good

work; he was remarkable for his power of influencing minds; and on the

12th of May, 1727, after a three hours' discourse, he succeeded in

reconciling all differences, and the Reformed Evangelical United

Brotherhood of the Augsburg Confession was established. This day, as

well as the 13th of August of the same year, when the whole community

renewed and confirmed their union in the church at Berthelsdorf, are

days never to be forgotten by the Brethren.

The success of Herrnhut was now secure. The number of residents had

increased to three hundred, of whom one half were fugitives from

Moravia. But they had still to endure privation; for they had

abandoned all their worldly substance, and trade and tillage advanced

but slowly: in the first six months, all that the two cutlers took

from the passers-by was but two groschen: a lean twopence. Friedrich

von Watteville, however, a much-beloved friend of the Count's, took a

room in one of the houses that he might live among the struggling

people, and help them in their endeavours.

Of the thirty-four small wooden houses which then stood on both sides

of the Zittau road not one now remains. In their place large and

handsome houses of brick have risen, which, though the place be but a

village, give it the appearance of a city. Besides those which have

been mentioned, there are the _Herrschaftshaus_, the _Vogtshof_--a

somewhat palatial edifice--the _Gemeinhaus_, the _Apotheke_, the

_Pilgerhaus_, and others. An ample supply of water is brought in by

wooden pipes, and two engines and eight cisterns in different quarters

are always ready against fire. There are covered stalls for the sale

of meat and vegetables; a common wash-house and wood-yard, and a

dead-house, all under the charge and inspection of a _Platzaufseher_--an

overseer who most undoubtedly does his duty. If ædiles in other

places would only take a lesson from him, their constituents would

have reason to be proud and grateful. An almoner is appointed to

succour indigent strangers. In 1852 he relieved 3668 tramping

journeymen.

Year by year the Herrnhuters improved in circumstances, though often

at hard strife with penury. However, they preferred hunger, with

freedom of conscience, to the tender mercies of the Jesuits at Olmutz.

The weavers of Bernstadt sent them wool to spin. In 1742 an order for

shoes for the army was regarded as a special favour of Providence. The

Seven Years' War, that brought misery to so many places, worked

favourably for Herrnhut. In one day a hundred officers visited the

place. Prince Henry of Prussia came and made large purchases, for the

work of the shoemakers and tailors, not being made merely to sell, was

much prized; and it sometimes happened that from 1500 to 2000 dollars

were taken in one day. Austrians and Prussians--fierce foes--rode in

alternately to buy; and while Herrnhut flourished, many erroneous

notions which had prevailed concerning it were removed by what the

visitors saw of the simple life and manners of the Brethren.

To Abraham Dürninger, who established a manufacture of linen cloths,

and whose skill and enterprise as a merchant were only matched by his

ceaseless activity, the colony owed the mainstay of its commercial

prosperity. Brother Dürninger's linen and woven goods were largely

exported, particularly to Spain, South America, and the West Indies,

and esteemed above all others in the market for the excellence of

their quality. The trade has since fallen off, but not the

reputation, as gold and silver medals awarded to the Herrnhuters by

the governments of Prussia and Saxony for honest workmanship amply

testify.

In 1760, notwithstanding that many colonies and missions had been sent

out, the population numbered 1200. This was the highest. The number

remained stationary until the end of the century; since then it has

slowly decreased, owing, as is said, to the decline of trade. In 1852

it was 925. No new buildings have been erected since 1805, so that

Herrnhut has the appearance of a place completely finished. The

streets were paved, and flagged footways laid down, eighty years ago;

and since 1810 all the roads leading from the village have been

planted and kept in good condition.

Well-managed elementary schools supply all that is needful for

ordinary education. Pupils who exhibit capabilities for higher

training are sent to the _Pedagogium_ at Nisky, a village built by

Bohemian refugees near Görlitz. Theological students are trained at

the seminary in Gnadenfeld, in the principality of Oppeln; and those

for the missions at Klein Welke, a village near Budissin, established

as a dwelling-place for converts from among the Wends.

Fifty-seven Moravian settlements and societies in different parts of

the continent of Europe--Russia, Sweden, Holland, Germany, some

founded by emigrants from Herrnhut, and all taking it for their

pattern, mark the growth of the principles advocated by the Brethren.

In England they have eleven settlements, among which Fulneck, in

Yorkshire, renews the name of the old Moravian village; and Ockbrook,

in Derbyshire, is the seat of the conference which directs the affairs

of the British settlements, but always with responsibility to the

Conference of Elders at Berthelsdorf. Scotland has one community--at

Ayr; and Ireland seven. At the last reckoning, in 1848, the number of

real members, exclusive of the societies, was 16,000.

Besides these, there are seventy foreign mission-stations, the duties

of which are fulfilled by 297 Brethren. The number of persons

belonging to the several missions is 70,000. That in North America was

commenced in 1734; Greenland, 1733; Labrador, 1770. The others are in

the West Indies, Musquito territory, Surinam, South Africa, and

Australia. At the instance of Dr. Gutzlaff, who visited Herrnhut in

1850, two missionaries have been sent to Mongolia.[J]

Although life at Herrnhut may appear tame and joyless to an ordinary

observer, it is not so to the Herrnhuters. A lasting source of

pleasure to them are the cheerful situation of the place itself, and

the delightful walks fashioned and planted by their own hands.

Lectures, the study of foreign languages, and of natural history, and

music, are among their permanent recreations. They excel in harmony,

and find, as their celebrations partake more or less of a religious

character, in the singing of oratorios, choruses, and hymns, an

animating and elevating resource. They observe the anniversary of the

foundation of Herrnhut, and of all other important incidents of its

history, and thus have numerous festival days. In some instances,

instrumental music, decorations of fir-branches, and an illumination,

heighten the effect.

Betrothals are times of gladness; baptism and marriage of solemn joy.

Weddings always take place in the evening; and in the evening also are

held, once in four weeks, the celebrations of the Lord's Supper. On

these occasions the whole community are present. Three or four

brothers who have received ordination, wearing white gowns, break the

thin cakes of unleavened bread and distribute to the assembly, and

when the last is served all eat together. The cup is then blessed and

passed in order from seat to seat.

On certain festive occasions love-feasts are held, after the manner of

the _Agapæ_ of the earliest Christian churches. At these gatherings,

which are intended to show the family ties which unite the members of

the community with the spiritual head of the church, suitable

discourse is held, hymns are sung; and cakes and tea--with at times

wine and coffee--are partaken of.

The Easter-morning celebration is especially remarkable. On that

morning the whole brotherhood assemble before sunrise in the church,

should the weather prove unfavourable; if fine, in the open air. Then

they walk two by two, the trumpets sounding before them, to the hill

of the _Gottesacker_, to watch from thence the rising of the sun.

Arrived on the height, they form into a great square: the prayers and

praises of the Easter-morning liturgy are then prayed and sung;

meanwhile the sun appears above the dim and distant horizon; a

spectacle in which the beholders see a foretoken of that glorious

resurrection where, in the words of a brother, "the grave is not, nor

death." Then the names of those who died during the past year are

read, and with affectionate remembrances of them the celebration

closes.

The service on New Year's Eve is so numerously attended from all the

neighbourhood round, that the church will hardly contain the throng.

At half-past eleven a discourse is begun, in which the events of the

year about to close are passed in review, with other subjects

appropriate to the time, until, as the clock strikes twelve, the

trumpet choir sound hail! to the new year. Then the verse

"Now all give thanks to God"

is sung, and with a prayer the service ends.

Burials are characterized by a simplicity worthy of all imitation; in

striking contrast to the vain and oft-times ludicrous proceedings, by

which folk in some other places think they do honour to the dead. The

Brethren assemble--wearing no kind of mourning except in their

hearts--in the church, where a short discourse is delivered, and a

narrative of the deceased's life is read. The procession is then

formed, preceded by the trumpet-band, who blow sacred melodies; and

the corpse is carried on a bright-coloured bier, covered with a

striped pall, by four brothers, dressed in their usual clothes. The

nearest relatives follow, and behind them the community, according to

kin. They form a circle round the grave and sing a hymn, accompanied

by the trumpets, during which the coffin is lowered. The burial

service is then read, and the simple rite concludes with a

benediction.

Not least interesting among the annals of Herrnhut are incidents

arising out of the wars which have afflicted Germany since the place

was founded. All day the Brethren heard the roar of cannon when

Frederick won his great victory at Lowositz; and a few days later,

forty-eight of them had to keep watch against an apprehended foray of

Trenck's wild Pandours. In 1757, General Zastrow quartered suddenly

four thousand men upon them spitefully, and in defiance of a royal

order to the contrary, keeping the peaceful folk in alarm all night;

but the troops were withdrawn in the morning, and an indemnity was

paid for the mischief they had committed. At times, long trains of

men, horses, and artillery would pass through without intermission for

a whole day--now Prussians, now Austrians, now heathen Croats. In the

same year three thousand officers visited the place, among whom,

during three weeks of the summer, were thirty-four princes,

seventy-eight counts, and one hundred and forty-six nobles of other

degree. Numbers of them attended the religious services of the

Brethren. The Abbé Victor was one of the visitors, and on his return

to Russia he said so much in praise of the Herrnhuters, that the

emperor gave him permission to establish the colony of Sarepta in

Southern Russia, which still exists.

In 1766 came the Emperor Joseph II., and by his pleasing manners and

friendly inquiries made a "lasting impression" on the minds of the

Brethren. In October, 1804, Francis I.--the Franzl of the

Tyrolese--with his wife. In 1810, Gustaf Adolf IV. of Sweden, who

expressed a wish to become a member. In 1813 the Emperor Alexander

came as a visitor, and examined all things carefully; and it is

recorded of him that while the children sang he stood among them

bareheaded. He was followed by three of the famous marshals--Kellermann,

Victor, and Macdonald.

This was a terrible year. With the retreat from Moscow came train on

train of wounded Saxons on the way to Dresden. Requisition on

requisition was made for linen and provisions; and one day, when no

more wagons were left, the Brethren had to supply two hundred

wheelbarrow-loads of rations. Night after night they saw the lurid

glow of fires, for seventy-one places were burnt in the circles of

Bautzen and Görlitz. Then came Cossacks, Calmucks, and squadrons of

savage Bashkirs, armed with bows and arrows. Then Poniatowsky with his

Poles, and Saxon Uhlans; and a review was held in a meadow behind the

_Schwesternhaus_, and the sisters made hundreds of little pennons for

the Polish lances.

In August, Napoleon was at Zittau. Daily skirmishes took place among

Prussians, Poles, and Russians, for possession of the _Hutberg_--the

best look-out for miles around. In September, Blucher came with

Gneisenau and Prince Wilhelm, and had the Prussian head-quarters here

for five days.

On the whole, Herrnhut suffered but little in comparison with other

places; yet the Brethren were not slow to rejoice for the evacuation

of Germany by the enemy, and the restoration of peace. "Praise and

Thank-feasts" were held, with illuminations and fireworks; some of the

fires being green and white, to represent the national colours of

Saxony.

FOOTNOTE:

[J] According to the Report for 1851, the latest I have been able to

get, the contributions received for missions in that year amounted to

86,221 dollars; the expenditure to 83,419 dollars.

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