=How to dress well.= The first thought to consider in supplying our
wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of good quality. Cheap stuff is
never good unless it is good quality at a low price.
One good suit of clothes, or dress, gives better satisfaction (in
lasting qualities, appearance and general makeup) than two suits at the
same price.
A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable tailor, always
looks well, and may be kept repaired, cleaned and pressed into shape
occasionally, a fact that few men properly understand. While the low
priced suit never has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit,
and cannot be kept looking as neat.
Made to order garments are always fitted and made better (if by a
reliable maker). In this way, one has the privilege of trying on and be
fitted; then when a perfect pattern has been made for you, your future
garments may be made from that pattern (changing the style of course,
but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.)
Men and women have their individual peculiarities, such as one shoulder
low, or one may be sloping shouldered, another square, erect and
stooping, etc. All these different variations must be taken into
consideration when making custom made garments (or garments made to
one's individual measurements), and all well dressed men and women
should have their garments made to order. They are more easily cleaned,
pressed and repaired, for their building and make up has been studied
and put together by skilled mechanics.
Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress,
should wear dark materials for suitings. Dark morning suits may be worn
on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should
be followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags at the knees
should be pressed out frequently. Close woven cloth keeps its shape in
garments better. The vest should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on
all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace with new.
Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely around the waist,
and loose over the chest to give the wearer that athletic appearance.
This tends to make the wearer stand straighter.
On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the chest, it tends
to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of men who do not wear
suspenders, is generally better than those who wear them.
When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest, in
many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor cannot add anything to the
front after the garment is completed.
Double breasted coats and vests, however, are different, on these; the
buttons may be moved a trifle toward the front edge, thereby giving more
breathing room over the chest, which is very much needed, and adds to
the appearance of the garment.
Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are most desirable from
every point of view. The man of taste and refinement always selects dark,
quiet colors for his overcoats.
Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are strong, plain, light
and small. Large canes are in very bad taste for young men.
A white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit, save
by clergymen, and a few elderly men who never wear any other color.
A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. A low hat should
not be worn with a double breasted frock or Prince Albert.
Straw hats should not be worn, only with light summer suits. Dark suits
are preferred on Sundays, especially in town, and light suits should
never be worn to church anywhere.
Double breasted frock coats should be made of black or grey materials.
At small informal gatherings, most men consider themselves sufficiently
dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers. It is not
necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in
full dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, for
example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man who wears a black
frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid gloves, is better dressed;
because more appropriately, than he, who wears a full dress suit.
'Tis true, the practice of wearing such a suit occasions additional
expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walking suit, and a dress suit
may be made to serve all occasions.
When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however it will be well to
remember that it is not polite to appear at the table, whether they are
strangers or not, or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on
a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves.
A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in evening dress.
Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen and white cravat (a black
cravat is permissible, but not in full dress.)
For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a white cravat. Watch
fob is very fashionable.
On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen are permitted to
wear frock coats, and to regard the day as an "off" one, unless invited
to a grand dinner, then you must wear the dress suit.
Men are always ungloved, except when riding or driving.
Colored shirts and flannel shirts are worn in the morning, often until
the dinner hour in the summer, and it is proper to go to an informal
breakfast in the informal dress of the tennis ground.
For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in black frock coat, a
colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe trousers, and white shirt.
For lawn tennis,--flannel shirts, rough coats, knickerbockers, long
grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes.
Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman.
Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, admit one to the better
circles of society. It is not sufficient to do as others do, but we must
dress as they do when we go out in the world.
He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least attention, and in order
to attract attention, one's dress must be seasonable, appropriate, and
conform to the prevailing fashion, without going to extreme, and to
appear comfortable.
=Evening Dress=:--For all formal events after six o'clock, balls, formal
dinners, opera and theater, receptions and weddings.
Overcoat--Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.
Coat--Evening dress coat.
Waistcoat--White or black, single or double breasted. Ribbed silk,
or flowered patterns of satin and silk.
Trousers--To match coat, outside seam trimmed with silk braid,
fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for ordinary wear,
medium width knees and bottoms.
Shirts and Cuffs--Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, corded
stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish.
Collars--Standing, Poke or lap front.
Neckwear--White corded stripe or lawn, string with broad round
ends.
Gloves--White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self-stitched.
Jewelry--Plain or Moonstone studs, and links.
Hat--Silk, cloth band or opera for theater.
Shoes--Varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops or patent
leather ties for balls.
Style--Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two buttons on
each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect.
Material--Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow-stripe, in
black or dark blue.
=Informal=:--Evening dress, for all informal occasions, club, stag, and
at home dinners, theaters and informal dinners.
Coat--Evening jacket, Tuxedo.
Waist coat--To match coat, dove grey; black corded silk for winter,
white for summer, single or double breasted, opening cut "V"
shaped.
Trousers--To match coat.
Shirts--Plaited, or may be of soft or negligee style. Attached
cuffs, domestic finish.
Collars--High band, fold or wing.
Neckwear--String, fancy figured, black or grey ground with black
figures, or to match material in waist coat, knot drawn tight, and
wide ends.
Gloves--Grey, Suede, or tan.
Jewelry--To match buttons of waist coat, dull chased gold stud,
links, watch fob and seal.
Hat--Soft or derby.
Shoes--Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.
Style--Chesty effect, shoulders trifle wider than natural, shawl
collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts well cut away below
bottom button.
Material--Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, dark, blue or
Oxford.
=Informal Day Dress=:--For ordinary occasions, before six o'clock and
Sundays.
Overcoat--Chesterfield.
Coat--Morning or Cutaway.
Waist coat--To match coat, single or double breasted, or quiet
pattern of fancy vestings.
Trousers--Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or cassimere.
Shirts and Cuffs--Plain white, attached cuffs.
Collar--Poke lap front or wing.
Neckwear--Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber effects.
Gloves--Tan or grey.
Jewelry--Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch guard.
Hat--High silk.
Shoes--Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops and light
colored spats.
Style--Chesty, effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, shoulders
trifle wider than natural, and wadding on extreme points, to give
square effect; roll low.
Material--Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna.
=Day Dress=:--For all occasions, before six o'clock; afternoon calls,
church, day weddings, receptions, and matinees.
Overcoat--Chesterfield.
Coat--Morning frock, for informal, double breasted frock or Prince
Albert for formal occasions.
Waist Coat--Double or single breasted, to match the coat, or quiet
fancy vesting, avoiding extremes.
Trousers--Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately close fitting with
slight hip fullness.
Shirt and Cuffs--Plain white, round or square cornered, attached
cuffs.
Collar--Poke, lap front or wing.
Neckwear--Ascot, black or white effect, once over, white or Pearl.
Gloves--Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one button.
Jewelry--Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and scarfpin.
Hat--High silk, cloth band.
Shoes--Varnished calfskin, or patent leather, button top with light
colored spats.
Style--Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded corners, roll
low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, raising extreme points
with wadding.
Material--Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or Oxford.
=Morning and Business Dress=:--For general wear during business hours.
Overcoat--Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat.
Coat--Sack or morning.
Waist Coat--Single breasted, with or without a collar, to match
coat or fancy vesting.
Trousers--To match coat, or striped worsted or cassimere with
morning coat.
Shirts and Cuffs--White or colored shirt, stiff or soft bosom,
attached cuffs.
Collars--Wing or high band turndown.
Neckwear--Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial.
Gloves--Tan or grey.
Jewelry--Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard.
Hats--Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby with morning
coat.
Shoes--Calfskin, high or low cut.
Style--Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty athletic
effect, two or three buttons, morning or English walking coat with
flaps on side.
Material--Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy weave for
morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mixtures for sacks; grey or
Oxford for morning dress.
=Seashore and Lounging Dress=:--For summer wear only.
Coat--Norfolk or lounge coat.
Belt--Pig or monkey skin.
Trousers--To match coat or fancy stripe flannel.
Shirts--Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford.
Collar--Fold collar.
Neckwear--Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie.
Jewelry--Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons.
Hats--Straw, Alpine or golf cap.
Shoes--Low shoes of calfskin.
Style--Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double breasted
sack.
Material--Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland or homespun.
Brown, grey and mixtures.
=Outing Dress=:--For golf and other sports:
Overcoats--Peajacket, short Covert or top coat.
Coat--Norfolk jacket or lounge coat.
Waist Coat--Double breasted, with or without collar, to match coat,
flannel or fancy knit.
Trousers--Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped flannel,
Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring and summer.
Shirts--Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford sweater.
Collar--Soft fold, self-collar or stock.
Neckwear--Tie or stock.
Gloves--Tan or chamois, wool knit, heavy golfing gloves.
Jewelry--Scarfpin, links, with watch guard.
Hat--Soft felt or cap.
Shoes--Calf or russet.
Style--Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain sack, chesty
effect.
Material--Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey and mixtures.
=Driving or Motoring Dress=:
Overcoat--Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster of linen or
rubber silk.
Coat--Norfolk or double breasted sack.
Waist Coat--Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit.
Trousers--Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed or homespun,
matching coat; breeches and leggings for motoring.
Shirts--Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft.
Collar--Soft fold self-collar or stock.
Neckwear--Stock or tie.
Gloves--Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or black for the
motor car.
Jewelry--Links, scarfpin and watch guard.
Hat--Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather visor for
motoring.
Shoes--Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling.
Style--Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth.
Material--Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey or tan.
=Women's Dress=:
Formal dress, for all occasions after six o'clock--weddings, receptions,
formal dinners, theater and balls, high neck, long skirt, hat, coat, and
gloves, and evening slippers.
For morning and afternoon wear, the tailor made suit with short skirt;
for afternoon, the long skirt, hat, high dress walking boot, patent
leather, lace or button with cloth tops.
For outing wear, the coat sweater for skating, golfing, and hockey.
For misses' and children's dresses made of the same material, short
skirts; the coats may cover the dress, or may be three-quarters or
seven-eighths long, may be single or double breasted, to button high
around the neck or roll low.
For house wear, the plain tailored shirt waist suit in becoming colors
are good form.
For school and street wear, the short skirt, coat three-quarters or
seven-eighths long and made of rough material is the more stylish, and
is made in a variety of styles.
Gloves for evening wear, Suede, Mousquetaire, elbow and above; length
arranging in buttons from eight to twenty-four. In tan, mode, slate,
pearl, lavender, yellow, black, and white.
Walking gloves, Havana, Smyrna, tan, oak and mahogany, with two or three
buttons, clasps.
Auto gauntlets, buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate, oak and black.
For automobiling, double and single breasted long loose coats, made in a
variety of styles, water and dust proof, plain or fancy trimmed, with
wind cuffs inside of sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs.
Material used are rubber faced goods, Mohairs, Chambrays, Satins,
Oxfords and Tan plaids, changeable silks and Crepe de Chines.
When selecting goods for dresses or jackets, bear in mind that stripes
lengthen, plaids, checks and light materials broaden, and enlarge the
person's appearance.
=Boys' and youths' clothing from four to eighteen.= The materials used
for boys' suits, include all the staple cloths, such as unfinished
worsteds in stripes and plaids, tweeds, dark and blue serge, plain
cheviots, and Scotch mixtures, homespun and corduroy.
The sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy, and may be made of
various materials, such as white, blue, and brown serge or cheviot, and
trimmed with braid in a variety of styles, as occasion require and
surroundings permit.
The most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown the sailor suit, is
the Norfolk coat, single or double breasted, with double or single box
plaits, made with or without straight or pointed yoke.
The next in popularity, comes the double or single breasted sack coat;
with this and the above, bloomers may be worn, finished at the knee with
a buckled band.
The straight trousers are much worn and preferred by some boys, and are
considered more dressy when worn with a plaited skirt bosom with
attached cuffs, pointed Eaton collar, and a narrow four-in-hand scarf
and patent or dull leather shoes.
For every day wear, the plain negligee shirt with yoke back and attached
cuffs are worn. With this style shirt, the younger boys from eight to
twelve, wear the stiff linen or soft white pique, Eaton collar with
round or square corners, or a turn down collar of which the latter is
most popular.
The Windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf may be worn with the
Eaton collar.
For outing, a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly plain, with
straight attached or the new turn back cuffs, a soft turn down collar
attached to the shirt is preferred by some, while others wear the
separate linen collar, and have the neck band finished plain. This style
of white turndown collar may be worn on all occasions until the age of
eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style on the maturer
man, providing his size will permit.
The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and may be of white or
light colors, with stripes and figures or in solid colors. Young boys do
not wear attached cuffs until they are twelve years old, and only then
if full grown.
For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy under sixteen may
wear a dark blue serge double breasted sack suit or the Norfolk style
with bloomers or straight trousers.
A plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with turn-over
collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in good taste with dull
leather or patent leather Oxfords.
=Boys' overgarments=:--For boys up to twelve, wear the straight double
breasted box overcoat; for the older boy, they may be semi-fitting and
slightly tapering at the waist, and medium length; storm coats are very
long and much box, the materials include fancy Tweeds, Diagonals,
Cheviots, Beaver and Kerseys.
At the age of fifteen or sixteen, a boy will require a more distinctive
type of evening dress, and for these, the Tuxedo or Dinner Coat is most
recommended. The Tuxedo or Dinner Suit may be made of unfinished
worsted, diagonal, twills, in black or dark blue, with pointed lapels or
shawn collar, silk or satin faced to the edge, and finished with one
button.
A black or grey vest may be worn with black tie, but if the occasion be
very formal, a white vest and white tie may be substituted, with patent
leather pumps.
After a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nineteen, he may adopt
the styles of men in scarfs, waist coats, evening clothes, gloves, etc.