Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. How to keep them
looking fresh and clean. How to be well dressed.
=Care of clothes=: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and pressing frequently
is a step in the right channel, for a man's appearance depends largely
upon the care he takes of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often
especially after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung up
in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. Coats and vest
should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape,
and to be ready for wear when wanted. The loop at the back of the coat
collar, should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few minutes,
as the weight of garments will pull the collar out of shape.
Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be turned inside out,
and placed on hangers, by doing this you are reversing the folds and
wrinkles that have formed while wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to
fall back into place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at
the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten a piece of silk to
the forepart of trousers on the inside to both leg seams across top and
bottom of silk, seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being
careful when sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out
side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two pairs trousers
with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is not necessary) and wear
them alternately, two days at a time, and have them pressed each time
you change, and turned inside out each night.
It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of one's wardrobe
from which to hang these forms, thereby saving much space especially in
the smaller houses. Care should be taken to draw trousers up well when
wearing, so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn without
suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, shorter in the legs and
closer around the waist. If one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have
a pair for each pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves
any further bother.
Brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary operation, a fact which
few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine clothes require brushing lightly
with a soft brush, except when mud is to be removed, then a stiff brush
should be used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the
dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they injure the fibre
of the cloth. When brushing lay the coat on a table, and brush in the
direction of the thread or nap of the fabric.
A well made, well fitting garment should not be thrown away when
slightly worn, but should be repaired, cleaned and pressed. Many times
lasting as long after being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely
necessary never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. If
the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, the same as
the material in the garment (or as near as possible) under the weakened
part and darn to this piece. One may back stitch with silk to match the
cloth, or make a small running stitch. When the entire part has been
thoroughly darned, turn the garment inside out and herringbone all
around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) being careful not to
allow stitches to show through on the outside. Press and they are ready
for wear. This is especially good when repairing the seat of trousers.
Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to strengthen weak
places and where buttons are to be sewed, acting as a stay, also saving
time of turning the edges of the cloth in, and is less clumsy.
Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly worn, show a
balance of mind and respect."
The freshness of a garment depends upon the care taken of it, and only
requires a few minutes each time they are taken off; they should be
carefully brushed, to remove all dust and dirt, removing all spots,
buttons sewed on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of
skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary alterations. All
these little duties given proper attention, will keep a wardrobe fresh
and in good order.
It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so sadly upon them.
It is the care that they receive. A few garments, well made and properly
fitted, and good care taken of them, is far more preferable than a
number of inferior quality and make.
When clothing is laid away for another season, they should first be
thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and pressed, to be ready for wear
when needed. If placed in bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be
sprinkled over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments
in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the outside as to the
contents.
Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful when folding
sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat; collars
turned up, and the coat folded in the center back seam, sleeves lying
together and on top of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and
place in the box.
If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the sleeves with
tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.
To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material and fit well.
The length of waist, and full length should be in proportion to the
wearer, or as near fashion as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right
length, and hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The
collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and
even, the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned,
and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no
wrinkles below the collar. The whole appearance of the garment must be
easy, the chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the
waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The arm hole should
not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position
while sitting as when standing. The buttonholes must be neat, and the
buttons sewed on good and strong with neck.
The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of fashionable length,
sleeves to cover the under coat, and to fit close around the neck
(sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary
overcoat), and must be the same length at front and back at bottom.
A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down, whether
sitting or stooping, more especially the former.
A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug.
One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come
up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl
under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make
one's clothes.
Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips,
knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear
them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college
towns, and is not universal.) The waist should be the proper height and
size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, the waist must fit
closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout men do not want their trousers
very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be
taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When
trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the
mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause
wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers,
look at them in the mirror; do not look down upon them as many do, and
often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping and
looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing natural, hang smooth
and straight.