PRESSING.

How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and

tailors, before making into garments, also for one's own use at home.

How to use the iron and sponge cloths. How to press hard finished

worsteds. How to press single and double breasted sack coats, overcoats,

rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also fatigue coats,

cutaways, morning, dress coats, Prince Alberts, military, clerical,

uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot. All kind

of jackets, coats and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double

breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and fancy vests.

How to press trousers.

How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and

tailors, before making into garments, also for one's use at home.

To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached cotton four

yards long, (or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires), boil in

soap and water for one hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint,

then it is ready for use.

Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean floor, then wet the

sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail or basin of warm water so that it

will get thoroughly wet, wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when

pressing) and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is free

from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or as wide as a

wrapping board would be (do not roll on a board as it will leave a mark

difficult to remove). Roll evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly

covered, sides and ends with sponge cloth.

=Time required for goods to remain in sponge.= Close woven material,

such as hard finished worsteds, broad cloth, kerseys, meltons and

beavers, require to be left in sponge three hours while open wove goods,

such as homespuns, unfinished worsteds, soft overcoatings, and ladies'

cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be taken out of

sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, (sufficient height to allow

cloth to clear the floor), or lay smoothly on a table or floor.

When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you have a fold seven

or eight inches wide, and small enough to place in a package.

The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, being careful not to

allow gloss to form, and see that iron is not hot enough to burn or

scorch cloth. Also to see that ends are even especially on stripes and

checks, and to see that checks and plaids match.

When pressing always have the iron to the right on the table, the edge

of the garment facing toward the presser. Start pressing the right side

of all garments first. In this way forming a system of doing the work.

When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets and coats, have

the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on the small end of the

press-jack, and start from the center back seam of all coats and vests,

and press forward on the right side, toward the front edge.

To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the press-jack

and garment so that neck, collar waist seam or band is lying to the

left. Commencing as before, from the center back seam of garment, and

continue pressing left side, and around to the front edge, which must be

facing the presser.

Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on hangers to retain

their proper shape.

A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a smooth horseshoe to

a block of wood, a trifle larger than the shoe.

When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton sponge cloth and iron,

lay the under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth on that part of the

garment to be pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth shows signs

of drying. Then remove the cloths and iron, and slap with the back of

the brush that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the part

pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus making the garment

look like new. Go over the entire garment (and all garments) in this

manner until the whole garment has been pressed.

When trousers have been pressed, place them over a round pole, suspended

from the ceiling, or fastened to the wall with brackets. A still better

way is to place them on individual hangers.

Do not give customers garments damp from pressing, place them on hangers

and allow them to remain for one hour before wearing or delivering.

Do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning or otherwise.

Allow them to thoroughly dry, when they will press more easily, and

customers better satisfied, by giving them first-rate work.

When a garment has been pressed all over, examine it thoroughly for

gloss, and where any appears, remove it as explained (in how to press

hard finished worsteds.)

This process should be followed carefully when pressing all kinds of

garments.

When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or pushed, as in ironing,

as before explained; as it is apt to stretch where not required. Only

heavy materials require heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the

material, pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and

slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch only the center of

the seam, then the edges of the seam will not be outlined on the outside

of the garment. This however, is only intended for light weight goods,

as when pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press more

solid.

=How to press hard finished worsteds.= When pressing hard finished

worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth over the part

to be pressed, (wring sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply

the iron, not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is

entirely dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or glossing).

Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a damp part of the sponge

cloth over that part just pressed, to remove the gloss, if any, by

applying the iron lightly, and slap with the back of the brush while

steaming. Also brushing the nap of the cloth.

Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges and collar, unless

it is required, (and the presser understands where to stretch, and is

familiar with the fitting qualities of the garment.) When pressing

around the pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets inside

out before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, then return

the pockets to their proper place before starting to press.

When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, to be pressed,

and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom, press fullness

away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be

pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove

cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron again to

remove gloss as explained before. Always have edge of garments pointing

toward the presser. This may be learned and accomplished in a short time

with little practice.

=How to clean and press single and double breasted sack coats, motormen

and conductors, also fatigue=: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary whip

with cane, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn

all pockets inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all spots;

special care must be taken to remove grease and dirt from the collar,

also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. Place on coat hangers and when

dry, proceed to press as follows:

Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the right, draw the

right cuff over the small end of the press-jack which should be pointing

to the right. Lay the sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be

pressed, (which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin of warm

water used for that purpose and wrung until almost dry), then apply the

iron until the sponge cloths shows sign of drying. Then remove the

sponge cloths and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been

explained.)

Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also the left. Then with

the coat in the same position, reverse the press-jack and place the

right sleeve, top side up on the large end of the press-jack, being

careful to have the sleeve smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths

over and apply the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the

sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed in the

sleeve.)

Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with the back of the

brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen the cloth.

Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the same.

Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves front and back, if

requested by customer.

Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat over the small

end of the press-jack in a convenient manner, and press around the

armholes, by laying the sponge cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply

the iron as before, and then slap with the back of the brush. Now press

around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner.

Next place the coat so that the collar points to the right on the large

end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge cloths on the back of the coat,

applying the iron as before, and press down back and around right side

of coat to the front edge; always having the edge of the garment toward

the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, commence

pressing at the center back seam, and forward to the front edge. This

completes the left side.

Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse press-jack; lift

coat and place collar or press-jack in a convenient way, so that the

collar and lapel, when pressed, will be creased the same as when worn.

Commence pressing from the center of collar to the right side of lapel,

being careful not to stretch the edges of lapel or collar. Then from the

center of collar at the back, press forward on left side as before. Turn

coat inside out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an almost

dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, and leave the lining

smooth.

Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying four-ply of

wadding on the press-jack, and place right forepart of coat so that the

buttons face toward the wadding, and press on the wrong side, the

buttons will sink into the wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of

same, which is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now remove

the wadding and press left side on the padded side of press-jack in the

usual manner. Now turn the coat right side out, place right shoulder in

a convenient manner on the small end of the press-jack, and if any

wrinkles appear on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do the

same with the left side.

Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, place coat on

press-jack in a convenient manner and remove as explained.

When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on the outside, the

pockets returned to their proper place inside, before starting to press.

Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain their

proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, which is very

essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, and vests. One will

soon become familiar with the work by a little practice.

Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Sack

overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are pressed in the same way.

=How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, military,

clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot.=

The above garments are cleaned and pressed the same as other garments,

but with this difference:--Coats with skirts are pressed from the collar

or neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist line or

seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, and around to the

front, having the edge of the garment pointing toward the presser. All

coats lined with silk are pressed very lightly, especially lapels and

facings (as the mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult

to remove.)

Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore does not require

much pressing. Great care must be taken when cleaning, pressing, and

repairing dress suits, Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is

silk lined. The price to charge for such work may only be figured by the

amount of silk, and time required to do the work. Silk facings may be

had by mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list.

=How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats=: Brush thoroughly,

and if necessary, whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt. Remove all

spots with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as

follows: Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, but

with the following differences: Press around cuffs, sleeves and

shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, then start at the center

back seam and press forward to the front edge, having the collar or neck

pointing to the right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the

presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and commence pressing

as before, down the back seam and around left side to front edge. Lay

sleeves on the press-jack and press as before, being careful to have

plaits in the right creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do

not allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the sleeves than

is needed.

=How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies=, Brush

thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt inside out, and brush

dust and dirt, from the seams and bottom. Clean all grease spots, if

any, with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as

follows: Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to the

left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to be drawn on the

press-jack to the left. Use the sponge cloths and iron the same as when

pressing other garments. Press around the top of the skirt and as far

below as the press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to

have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or baste

plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.

When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press very hard, only

until the steam arises, then slap with the back of the brush to keep

steam in the goods, also to refreshen the garment. Place on skirt hangers

to dry before wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any

appears, remove as explained.

=How to clean and press single and double breasted vests, clerical, with

or without collar=: Brush thoroughly and whip with cane, if necessary,

to remove dust and dirt, being careful not to break the buttons on the

garment. Turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt from

them. Then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place

on coat hanger, and when dry, press as follows: Place the right forepart

of the vest smooth on the press-jack, with the edge facing the presser,

and the neck or the collar pointing to the right. Cover with sponge

cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows signs of drying. Remove

and slap with the back of the brush, then brush the nap of the cloth to

refreshen and make it look like new, being careful not to stretch the

opening when pressing the forepart and shoulders.

When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side seams, and press

forward to the front edge. Now reverse the press-jack and vest and press

left side in the same manner, around the shoulders and arm holes. Now

smooth the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center and

pressing forward to the right side seam; then press the left side in the

same manner. This removes the wrinkles, and may be done with almost dry

sponge cloth and medium warm iron.

All vests are pressed in the same way, with the exception of fancy or

white vests. With these use a plain white cotton cloth, and wet sponge

with clean water.

Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing.

Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give body to goods,

then iron when almost dry. Turn all pockets inside out before starting

to press. The pockets are pressed first, then returned to their proper

place, thereby keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even. Continue

the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little practice, one

will soon become familiar with the work. Always being careful not to

stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, by pressing in a half circle from

left to right toward the front edge.

When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if there is a chamois

watch pocket, if there is sew or fasten a piece of cloth on the outside

of vest pocket as a reminder not to press over the pocket; if you did it

would spoil the chamois, and a new pocket would have to be put in for

the customer.

=How to clean and press trousers=: Brush thoroughly from the right side,

and whip, if necessary, then turn them inside out. Also the pockets. See

that all dust and dirt is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams.

Then turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots with the

cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, and when dry, proceed to

press as follows: Place trousers flat on a covered table with the knees

up (trousers being turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge.

Apply the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, to

remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with the left leg. Turn

trousers right side out, and press around bottoms, same as in pressing

the cuffs on coats. Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around

tops with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or end of fly,

starting from the right side of fly and pressing around to the left fly.

Remove the press-jack and lay trousers flat on the table or bench that

has been covered with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place

creases at the bottom together with the left hand, and with the right

hand place the two top suspender buttons together, then lay them flat on

the bench or lengthwise of the table. Then turn the left leg back as far

as the seat line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the table.

Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the iron, pressing full length of

leg, until cloths shows sign of drying, pressing the front and back

creases sharp. Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap with

the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten the cloth or garment.

Now turn the leg over and press other side in the same manner; then turn

leg over to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the

right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right leg back, and

proceed to press the left inside leg the same as right. Turn left leg

over and press outside. Now turn left leg over to inside as at first,

bringing the right leg down to meet the left at the bottom, then have

both legs lying perfectly even on top of each other. Press them together

from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn trousers over, and press

other side in the same manner, using the back of brush for slapping and

face to brush nap of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table

again, with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the right

bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, and press crease out

through the turn up. Do this at the front and back about two inches from

the bottom. Now press the bottom of left leg the same way.

Some customers do not want this crease taken out, then of course it is

to be left in. But custom-made trousers are usually not pressed through

the turn up.

This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hangers before wearing

or delivering. By practice, one may soon become an expert.

Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for gloss, and if any,

remove as explained.