When sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened, have customer try coat
on, and mark with chalk, the length desired. Then remove coat and run a
basting of cotton around both sleeves, five inches above cuff, to hold
lining in place, while doing the work. Then with a knife or scissors,
rip lining around both cuffs. Unfasten turn up from wigan. This will
allow turn up to fall down. Now mark with chalk, around both sleeves,
the correct length. Turn up and baste solid, and fasten turn up, to
wigan, same as before. Now allow lining to fall down, and cut off even
all around the end of the cuff. Baste lining two inches from the edge of
cuff, and fell with silk same color as the cloth or lining. These
instructions are for shortening sleeves.
=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, proceed as before, but with this
difference,--should the lining, and turn up of cuff not meet, it will be
necessary to piece the lining or sew hand facings to the bottom of
sleeve, same as the cloth in garment, or as near as possible. Then fell
sleeve lining to facing.
=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, baste a piece of wigan to that
which is now in place, the amount to be lengthened, and fasten turn up
to the wigan, and turn sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff.
Fell sleeve lining to turn up as before.
=Sleeves may be lengthened= all of the turn up, by sewing a piece of
cloth to the sleeve, same as the garment, same size around, and sewn in
a seam on the machine. Baste and turn edges out even, and press firm,
stitch around with machine, thereby making it firm and solid.
Stitch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat.
Fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a needle and taking a
stitch or two, then cut off. Sew buttons on as required. This completes
the lengthening of sleeves.
=Should coat collar be too high=, run a row of basting cotton, two
inches below the collar seam; mark with chalk the amount to be lowered,
then rip with knife or scissors, inside and out from crease to crease.
Now baste under collar to neck of coat first, and fasten inside of coat
to the stand of collar. Now baste the outside or top collar on the
inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered and fell inside
and outside of collar. Sew loop on back of coat collar inside, and
remove basting. Place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient manner
and press in same crease as when worn.
Place on a coat hanger, to retain its proper shape and to dry before
wearing. (When basting under collar to coat neck, start basting from
center back seam, forward to each side.)
=When coat collar is to be raised=, run a row of basting cotton two
inches below the collar seam, from end to end. Rip under collar and
unfasten coat from stand of collar inside and rip inside collar from
crease to crease. Mark with chalk the amount to be raised, and start
basting from the center back seam, forward to each side; then fasten
coat to the stand of collar, and baste inside or top collar to the
inside of coat the amount raised on the outside. Fasten loop to stand of
collar inside, remove bastings and place coat collar on press-jack in a
convenient way, press as before and hang to dry before wearing.
If however, the coat collar is to be raised and one finds that by
raising, that the collar will be too long, the collar may be cut in the
center and seamed or taken off at one end (if only raised on one side)
or both as the case may be; if raised all around, the collar must be
shortened at both ends.
This is a very particular piece of work, and should not be attempted
unless the garment is old, and one wants to practice on it; this may be
had by altering an old garment for practice, as with practice, most
anything may be accomplished. (When one has had considerable experience
in this line, then it may be done without taking it to a tailor; until
then, it will be best to let the experienced tailor do the work on a
good coat.)
=When a coat is too large around the neck and collar=, and falls away at
the bottom when unbuttoned, and bulges at the opening when buttoned, is
an indication that the garment is not balanced properly. This may be
changed to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a basting three
inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to front of coat to
collar end. Rip collar off from crease to crease, rip shoulder seams
from neck to within two inches of the sleeve seam, and mark with chalk,
the amount to be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck
to bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the coat will hang
squarely and well balanced when unbuttoned as well as when buttoned),
mark from neck gradually to nothing at the end of the two inches, from
the shoulder or sleeve head; this amount to be taken off the forepart in
all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press open, unless a trifle
may be taken off the center back seam at top, which is a good idea, so
that the collar will fall more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and
lining together. Now baste collar on, starting at the center back seam,
and baste forward each way, and if found too long, shorten as explained
above; fell shoulders and collar. Finish collar neatly and press
shoulder and collar.
When one side is to be altered (this one may see when customer has coat
on and buttoned, and one side stands away from the neck), in that case,
only change one side.
=When a coat is too large over the chest=, and by setting the buttons
back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in
extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting
cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder
to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. Rip
sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end, press seam out
smooth, and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say
from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may be (this
may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer, notice the
amount of lap and then judge the amount), baste back shoulder to
forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam
and press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste collar on,
then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open seam as before and fix up
sleeve head, and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at
shoulder point. This will take surplus goods away from the front and
allow goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves and press.
Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may be set from the
edge, according to style and fashion.
When a coat is too large in the back, take part out in the side seams
and part out in the center back seam; the best way to determine the
amount to be taken out, is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has
coat on, then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.
=When a vest is too large around=, it may be pinned on the customer,
down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out;
this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across
back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken
in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of
the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and
outside.
Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell
across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on
hanger to retain shape.
=When vest is to be made larger=, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and
across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove
stitches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be
let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there
is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside
lining; press open the seams or stitch to one side and press. Then mark
with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.
=When trousers are too long=, they may be shortened in the following
manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the
desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or
scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the
bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside
and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow
to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to
be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste
in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only
leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.
Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all
around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not
with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press
until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both
bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in
ordinary pressing.
When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the
balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let stitches
show through on right side. Press bottoms same as explained.
=When trousers are to be lengthened=, loosen them at the bottom measure
with tape line, the desired length, from crotch down, making them one
inch shorter in the back or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the
desired length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and press
as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, all. It will be
necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same
cloth (or as near as possible), sew on machine and baste edges out even,
and place rubber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way by
turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms and legs. Sew heel
protectors on (they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in, or
made of cloth, same material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches
long, sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser
bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.
=When trousers are too large around the waist=, mark with chalk (or pin
on customer), the amount to be taken in, rip back seam down as far as is
required. Remove the two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far
enough for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together and sew
in the chalk mark (by machine or by hand) to within two inches of the
top of waist band; press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the
waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide,
each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom
or three inches from the inside leg seam.
Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side of back seam. Put a
good neck on buttons to allow suspender button holes to fit smoothly
around button. This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top
of button and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted thread or
button cord made for that purpose, as explained in (how to make button
cord.)
When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and wind cord around
under button, and fasten by taking two stitches through the neck, and
cut thread off. Now fell lining back in place, leaving an opening at top
of, say two inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the usual
way.
=When trousers are to be made larger around waist=, rip lining three
inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back
suspender buttons. Rip back seam down the required amount and press out
the mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the amount to be
made larger, half the amount on each side of seam, baste seam and sew on
machine or by hand in chalk mark. Remove basting, and press seam open,
fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches
open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons on; and fell
waist band lining. Finish and press in the usual way.
=When trousers are to be made larger at the waist=, and there is nothing
to let out, remove back suspender buttons as explained, and waist band
lining. Cut a piece of cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of
the same material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams
wider than required. This may be determined by the amount to be made
larger, (the larger the piece at the top, the longer the wedge will have
to be, as it will not do to have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of
cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press
open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a
piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and
stitch with machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist
band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist stitching. Sew
back suspender buttons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish
as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place;
press and finish. When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side
of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this will make
pressing easier; but do not put too much water on seams.
=How to make button cords for sewing on buttons=. Thread a needle with
linen thread double, then rub beeswax up and down the thread; then
twist, and when one has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This
will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, which is
very essential in sewing on buttons; one knows how annoying it is to
have buttons coming off; this may be prevented by sewing them on good
with twisted thread.
When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax and rub through
cloth to remove excess wax. This will make the silk stronger, and also
will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing.
=A good method of hanging a skirt.= Have customer stand on top of the
stairs, the fitter sitting on the second step. This is an easy way to
see that skirts hang evenly all around, marking the proper length
without rising, or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.
=Ironing over buttons made easy and safe.= Place four ply wadding on
press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron from the wrong side until dry.
This is equally good in ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing
embroidery white wadding should be used.)