A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold
should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on
this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned
in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving
one-eighth inch space for working. Felling--when felling or hemming, the
needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just
enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take
small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too
tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.