To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and women. When new
lining is required in coats, rip out the old lining, starting to rip the
sleeve lining, first around top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or
cuff. Now remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth and
use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out exactly same size
as the pattern, down the seams, but for convenience in working, allow
two seams longer at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. Place
one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, Baste seams, having the
two right sides of lining together, and seam on machine, (or one may sew
the seams on the machine without basting, this may be done with a little
practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, baste top of
sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter of an inch, now turn right
sleeve inside out and baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the
back seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve seam of coat,
baste with long loose stitches, start basting two inches below top of
sleeve, to two inches within the bottom, being careful not to get lining
in too short (take one quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as
this will cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, now fasten the
front arm seams same as back, so that each seam will come directly on
top of the sleeve seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk
on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve seams at top of
sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve seams of garment, and baste
lining all around until one becomes familiar with the work.
Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining off even with
the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve lining up two inches from the
bottom. Then with needle and silk fell around both sleeves, top and
bottom. Turn sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches.
Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, and rip down and
around the pocket to one inch above and one inch below the pocket across
bottom, up side seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron
out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, leaving the
left side of the lining in as a guide to the beginner as to how the
lining should be placed. Then cut the new lining for the right side one
half inch larger all around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking,
and also for convenience while working. Then baste lining in right side,
being careful not to put lining in too tight. Rather have it too long,
but not so long that it hangs below the bottom of garment. Coats will
not hang well with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down
front, and across bottom with basting, and fasten lining to side seam of
forepart with long loose basting stitches. Then rip lining out of left
side and iron out smoothly for a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on
left side the same as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining
double and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait for ease,
then press to one side, and baste in back, and turn all edges in, down
side seams, across bottom and shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten
lining all around arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place,
so as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with seam all
around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around.
Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut lining in a trifle to
allow working, and for turning in around the pocket, and fell lining in
all around the pocket mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing the
same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire coat. Remove
basting stitches, and finish garment in the usual way.
Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, also all kinds of
men's coats and overcoats included.
When new silk facings are required for coats, remove the old facing, and
use it as a pattern for the new, and when cutting the new facing, allow
three quarters of an inch all around for convenience, while working.
Baste new silk facing on very neat, and take time to do good work. When
basting is completed, fell all around with fine silk, being careful not
to draw the stitches tight, nor to contract the edge.
Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will look better than
the old one did when new. This will bring you customers. The price to
charge for such work is by the hour and for material used.