Having taken up my quarters in Kertch under the hospitable roof of M.

Menestrier, one of the most agreeable of my countrymen I have met in my

travels, I set earnestly about my excursions, and through the obliging

kindness of Prince Kherkeoulitchev, the governor of the town, I was soon

in possession of all the data requisite to guide me in my researches. I

shall not, however, obtrude upon the reader all the archaeological notes

with which I enriched my journal, while exploring the tombs and

monuments of Panticapea, since I have been anticipated in this respect

by others more competent in such matters, especially M. Dubois

Montperreux.

In roaming about the environs of Kertch, among the innumerable tumuli,

that served as tombs for the sovereigns and wealthy citizens of

Panticapea, one is instantly struck by the exceedingly slovenly and

mischievous manner in which every opening of these mounds has been

performed during the last twenty years. Instead of seeking to preserve

these precious monuments bequeathed unaltered to them by so many

generations, the Russians have been only bent on destroying them, in

order to arrive the sooner at the discovery of the valuable contents

thought to be enclosed within them. All the tumuli _against_ which

official exploratory operations have been directed, have been totally

demolished, or cut in four by wide trenches from the summit to the base,

and no one has even thought of effecting the required researches by

means either of a vertical shaft or by tunnelling.

I have visited all the chief points where the destructive genius of the

Muscovite archaeologists has been exercised; but it would be impossible

for me to describe the grief I felt at the sight of such horrible

devastation. They have not contented themselves with destroying the form

of the monuments; the inner chambers and the mortal remains within them

have been no more respected than the earth and stones that had protected

them for so many ages from all profanation. The bones have everywhere

been taken out of the tombs, and exposed on the surface of the ground to

the inclemency of the weather. M. Menestrier, of whom I have spoken

above, and whose generous indignation has not spared the directors of

these operations, had one day to bury with his own hands the still

entire skeleton of a young woman. I have myself seen soldiers warming

themselves at large fires which they fed with the precious fragments of

wooden sarcophagi they had just discovered.

Among the various tumuli, that situated near the quarantine

establishment north of the town, unquestionably deserved especial

attention on the part of the local administration. Considering the

gigantic dimensions of its central chamber and gallery, both having

corbelled ceilings, it was a truly unique monument, which the government

should have been solicitous to transmit unimpaired to future

generations. The entrance gallery is 36.25 metres long, 2.80 wide, and

7.50 high. The five lower courses forming the basement are each 0.45

thick. Then come twelve other courses, only 0.40 high, and rising in

corbels so as to form a series of regular projections on the interior of

0.12. The two upper courses, which have an interval of 0.25 between

them, instead of being joined by keystones, are merely covered with

large flags laid flat in mortar. The stability of such ceilings is

evidently contrary to all the rules of art, and it is probable that in

erecting them the builders must have used numerous wooden props and

trusts, until the whole structure was consolidated by a sufficient load

of earth. A rectangular opening at the end of the gallery three metres

high and 2.35 wide, gives admission into the interior of the central

chamber or cupola.

The base of the cupola consists of four courses, of 0.40 to 0.45 in

thickness, forming a total height of 1.85. The ground plan of this part

is an irregular square, the sides of which are 4.50, 4.40, 4.45 and

4.30. Above the fifth course the four angles are filled in by stones

forming a circular projection of 0.30 in the line of the diagonal. The

same thing is repeated in the succeeding courses. The curved portions

thus gradually increase in extent, until at the ninth course they form

together a complete circle, the diameter of which diminishes with each

succeeding course, until at top there is only a circular opening of 0.70

diameter, which is closed in the same manner as the upper part of the

entrance gallery. The total height of the cupola is 9.10. The material

is tertiary shell limestone, large quarries of which exist in the

neighbourhood. Of all the tombs recently explored by the Russians, that

of the quarantine is the only one which had been previously opened. It

was found completely empty. The first examination appears to have

occurred at a very early date; perhaps at the time when the Genoese

possessed the small fort of Cerco, at the foot of the mountain of

Panticapea.

Of the tombs with semi-circular arches, that discovered in the summer of

1841 is among the most remarkable. It consists of two distinct chambers

communicating with each other. In the centre of the inner one was found

a wooden sarcophagus with a male skeleton having a crown of dead gold on

the skull. It was from this sarcophagus that the wooden target was taken

representing a fight between a stag and a griffin, which I have

presented to the Cabinet of Antiquities of the Bibliotheque du Roi.

Another coffin found in the centre of the outer chamber contained a

female skeleton in a wonderful state of preservation. The smallest bones

of the fingers and toes were perfect, and where the skull lay was seen a

large quantity of light brown hair. The garments even retained their

form and colour, but they fell to pieces at the least touch. In this

chamber, to the right on entering, there was a small niche, in which had

been deposited the body of a child, with a bronze lamp and two

lacrymatories, one of them of glass, beside it. I have the last two in

my possession.

In 1841, when I first explored the remains of Panticapea, this

remarkable tomb, which excited the admiration of all artists, served as

a place of shelter for the cattle of the neighbourhood, and its fine

entrance gallery was falling to ruin. Some months after my departure the

work of destruction was carried on in the face of day, and the

magnificent pavement of the chamber was shamelessly carried off. At

Soudagh and Theodosia, I could in some degree account for the disastrous

effects of administrative recklessness; the ignorant governors to whom

was committed the sole custody of the antiquities of those towns, could

see in the buildings of past ages only a quarry to be worked for their

own profit. But at Kertch, which possesses a museum, and a committee of

_savans_ to superintend the processes for exploring its antiquities,

such destruction appeared to me quite incomprehensible. It is true the

Russian government cares little about the preservation of monuments,

even of such as directly concern its own history; it granted only 4000

paper rubles for the investigations, and seems in reality to be

interested only about objects of art, such as Etruscan vases, gold

ornaments, small statues, &c., which may serve to decorate the rooms of

the Hermitage; but there exists in Southern Russia a numerous society of

antiquaries, officially constituted, and there cannot be a question,

that if it would or could fulfil in some small degree the nominal

purpose of its creation, it would immediately obtain from the emperor

all the necessary supplies for the conservation of the monuments in the

peninsula of Kertch. Unhappily, that general indifference to

intellectual pursuits, which we have dwelt on in a preceding chapter,

prevails as much with regard to archeology as any thing else. When I

examined the exploring works, and conversed with the learned gentlemen

that directed them, I could not help seeing before me, instead of the

love of knowledge, palpable evidence of private interest and ambition

employing all means to rise in the nobiliary scale of the empire; and

whilst the Russian journals trumpeted forth the admirable discoveries

made in the name of the history of mankind, every man of those who were

disturbing the ashes of the ancient Panticapea thought only of

augmenting his own income, or gaining a grade or a decoration.

Another proof how secondary a consideration in these researches is the

interest of learning and history, is the scandalous neglect of the

sarcophagi, the bas-reliefs, the architectural fragments, and, in a

word, all the large sculptures that cannot be sent to St. Petersburg and

laid before his majesty. When I visited the museum of Kertch, I found

the approaches to the building filled with antiques, which lay on the

ground without any shelter. The noses and chins of the principal figures

on the bas-reliefs had just been broken, perhaps that very morning; yet

the learned committee had not thought of making the least complaint, so

little importance did it attach to the matter. In passing through the

various halls of the museum, I everywhere noticed the same negligence,

and tokens of incessant pillage. Among other relics the destruction of

which I had to deplore, I was shown the remains of a magnificent wooden

sarcophagus, which had been found in perfect condition. It was enriched

with Greek carvings, the prominent parts of which were gilded, and the

hollow parts painted red, and it was in my opinion the most interesting

piece in the museum. Thanks, however, to the obliging disposition shown

by the keepers towards strangers, I doubt if a fragment or two of it yet

remain at this moment. We should never have done, if we were to recite

all the acts of vandalism and depredation of which the museum of Kertch

has been the theatre. The details which we have given will sufficiently

indicate the value of the archeological labours carried on upon the site

of the ancient Panticapea; may the remonstrances we here put forth in

the name of art, literature, and science, attract the notice of all

those Russians who take a real interest in the historical monuments of

their country.

FOOTNOTES:

[71] Superbi discordes et desides Graeci a Genuensibus Italis fracti et

debilitati civitatem eam amiserant (Martini Briniovii Tartaria, 1575).

[72] Cum obsidionem diuturnam ac famem, Genuenses diutius ferre nee

impetum tam numerosi exercitus Turcorum sustinere amplius possent, in

maximum tempum illud, quod adhuc ibi integrum est, centeni aliquot vel

mille fere viri egregii sese receperant, et per dies aliquot in arce

inferiori in quam Turcae irruperant fortiter et animose sese defendentes,

insigni et memorabili Turcarum strage edita tandem in templo illo

universi concidere.--Ibid.

[73] For a more detailed description of the ruins of Soudagh, see the

remarkable work of M. Dubois de Montperreux. Paris, 1843.

[74] Giust. Ann. di Genova, lib. iii.

[75] Formerly French Consul at Theodosia; deprived of his place for his

opinions upon the return of the Bourbons, and now filling the humble

functions of Neapolitan consular agent. He is the author of a valuable

work on the political revolutions of the Crimea.

CHAPTER XLI.

POLITICAL AND COMMERCIAL REVOLUTIONS OF THE CRIMEA.

EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF SURFACE--MILESIAN AND HERACLEAN

COLONIES--KINGDOM OF THE BOSPHORUS--EXPORT AND IMPORT TRADE

IN THE TIMES OF THE GREEK REPUBLICS--MITHRIDATES--THE

KINGDOM OF THE BOSPHORUS UNDER THE ROMANS--THE ALANS AND

GOTHS--SITUATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF KHERSON--THE HUNS;

DESTRUCTION OF THE KINGDOM OF THE BOSPHORUS--THE KHERSONITES

PUT THEMSELVES UNDER THE PROTECTION OF THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE

--DOMINION OF THE KHAZARS--THE PETCHENEGUES AND KOMANS--THE

KINGDOM OF LITTLE TATARY--RISE AND FALL OF THE GENOESE

COLONIES--THE CRIMEA UNDER THE TATARS--ITS CONQUEST BY THE

RUSSIANS.

The Crimea comprises a surface of about 1100 square geographic leagues,

divided into two distinct regions. The first of these is mountainous,

and forms a strip of about ninety-five English miles in length along the

southern coast, with a mean breadth of from twelve to sixteen miles; the

second, the region of the plains, presents all the characters of the

steppes of Southern Russia, and extends northward to the isthmus of

Perecop, which connects the peninsula with the continent. The Crimea now

forms part of the government called the Taurid, the territory of which

extends beyond Perecop, between the Dniepr and the Sea of Azof, to the

47th degree of latitude. Simpheropol is its chief town.

In order to give a clear conception of the political and commercial

importance of the Crimea, which, by its almost central position in the

Black Sea, commands at once the coasts of Asia, the mouths of the

Danube, and the entrance to the Constantinopolitan Bosphorus, it is

indispensable to present a rapid sketch of the numerous revolutions

which the march of time and the invasions of peoples have effected in

that important peninsula. It was in the middle of the seventh century

before Christ, that the Milesians made their appearance on the northern

shores of the Euxine. The eastern part of the Tauris, an open country

and easy of occupation, having attracted their attention, they founded

their first colonies there, possessing themselves at the same time of

all the little region which we now call the peninsula of Kertch. The

agricultural prosperity which they soon attained, was quickly known in

Greece, whence it occasioned fresh and important emigrations. Theodosia,

Nymphea, Panticapea, and Mermikion, were erected on the shore of the

little peninsula, and served as seaports for the thriving colonists.

The success of the Milesians stimulated the Heracleans to follow their

example. They chose the most western part of the country, landed not far

from the celebrated Cape Perthenica, and after having beaten the savage

natives and driven them back into the mountains, they settled in the

little peninsula of Trachea, known in our day by the name of the ancient

Khersonesus. Thus were laid the foundations of the celebrated republic

of Kherson, which subsisted, great and prosperous, for more than 1500

years, and the capital of which having become the temporary conquest of

a Grand Duke of Russia, in the tenth century, was the starting point of

that great religious revolution which completely changed the face and

the destinies of the Muscovite empire.

Whilst the Heracleans were consolidating their power by improving their

trade, the Milesian settlements on the Bosphorus were growing up with

magic rapidity, and were spreading even beyond the strait to the Asiatic

coast, where the towns of Phanagoria, Hermonassa, and Kepos were

founded. At first all these Milesian colonies were independent of each

other, but at last they became united into the kingdom of the Bosphorus,

B.C. 480.

As agriculture formed the basis of the public wealth of the Milesians,

it became the object of the new government's peculiar attention. On his

accession to the throne, Leucon relieved the Athenians of the thirtieth

imposed on exported corn, in consequence of which liberal measure those

exports increased prodigiously; the Cimmerian peninsula became the

granary of Greece, and merchants flocked to Theodosia and Panticapea,

where they procured at the same time wool, furs, and all those salted

provisions, which still constitute one of the chief riches of Southern

Russia. As for the import trade, of which history says little, it is

easy to conceive the nature of its operations from the important

archeological discoveries of Panticapea.

The Bosphorians undoubtedly received in exchange for their produce, all

the manufactured goods which wealth and luxury had brought into vogue in

Athens, and it was probably Greek artists who executed all those

magnificent objects of art which are contained in the museum of Kertch,

and which prove that the agricultural colonists of the Tauris did not

fall short of the opulence of their brilliant mother city. Building

materials seem to have formed an important item of importation. There is

no trace of white marble either in the Crimea or on the northern coasts

of the Black Sea; nevertheless, large quantities have been found in the

excavations made at Kertch, and there is every reason to presume that

the huge masses of cut marble employed in the public and private

buildings, were imported ready wrought from Greece.

Despite the dangerous vicinity of the Sarmatians, the kingdom of the

Bosphorus enjoyed perfect tranquillity for above three hundred years,

and through a steady and rational policy increased in prosperity and

riches, until the conquest of Greece by the Romans subverted all the

commercial relations of the East. At that period the Bosphorians,

attacked by the Scythians, and too weak to resist them, threw themselves

into the arms of the celebrated Mithridates, who turned their state into

a province of the Pontus, and bestowed it as an appanage on his son

Makhares.

After the defeat and death of her implacable enemy, Rome maintained the

traitor Pharnaces in possession of the crown of the Bosphorus; but the

new prince's sovereignty was merely nominal, and the successors of the

son of Mithridates, powerless and despoiled of all the Milesians had

possessed on the Asiatic shore of the strait, reigned only in accordance

with the caprice of the Roman emperors.

About the middle of the first century after Christ, the Alans entered

the Tauris, devastated the greater part of the country, and entirely

destroyed Theodosia, which had offered them some resistance. They were

followed by the Goths, who in their turns became masters of the

peninsula. But far from abusing their victory, they blended their race

with that of the vanquished, founded numerous colonies on the vast

plains north of the mountainous region, and followed their natural bent

for a sedentary life and rural occupations. The Tauric Khersonese now

entered on a fresh period of tranquillity and agricultural prosperity.

Unfortunately, Greece was at this period rapidly declining under the

Roman yoke; Rome having become the capital of the whole world, Egypt,

Sicily, and Africa had naturally acquired to themselves the monopoly of

the supply of corn; so that with all its efforts the Tauris could not

emerge from the depression into which it had been plunged by the

political events of the first Christian century.

The remote and inaccessible position of the little republic of Kherson,

preserved its independence during all these early barbarian invasions.

In Diocletian's time, the Khersonites, whose dominions extended over

nearly the whole of the elevated country, had concentrated in their own

hands almost all the commerce that still existed between the Tauris and

some parts of the shores of the Black Sea.[76] Their republic was the

most powerful state of the peninsula, when war broke out between them

and the Sarmatians, who had already seized the kingdom of the Bosphorus,

and given it a king of their own nation. The struggle between the two

rival nations lasted nearly a century, and the Sarmatians having been at

last expelled, the Bosphorians again enjoyed some years of freedom and

quiet. But the peace was not of long duration. The unfortunate peninsula

was soon visited by the most violent tempest that had yet desolated it.

The Huns, from the heart of Asia, came down to the Asiatic side of the

strait, and soon the terrified Bosphorians beheld those furious hordes

traversing the Sea of Azof, which had for a while arrested their

progress. The ancient kingdom of the Milesians was then extinguished for

ever. (A.D. 375.) The numerous colonies of united Goths and

Alans shared the same fate, and all the rich agricultural establishments

of the country were reduced to ashes. Still protected by their isolated

position, the Khersonites alone escaped the devastation, in consequence

of the rapidity with which the torrent of the invaders rushed forth

towards the western regions of Europe.

The Tauris was still suffering under the effects of the frightful

disasters inflicted on it by the Huns, when it was again ravaged by

their disbanded hordes, after the death of Attila. The Khersonites were

now in jeopardy, and in their alarm, they sought the protection of the

Eastern Empire. Justinian, who then reigned at Constantinople, acceded

to their request, but he made them pay dear for the imperial protection.

Under pretence of providing for the defence of the country, he erected

the two strong fortresses of Alouchta and Gourzoubita, on the southern

coast, and the republic of Kherson became tributary to the empire.

In the latter part of the seventh century (A.D. 679) the

Tauris was invaded by the Khazars, hordes that having accompanied the

Huns, had settled in Bersilia (Lithuania), and had been formed into an

independent kingdom by Attila himself. The apparition of these new

conquerors, already masters of a vast territory, made such a sensation

at Constantinople, that their alliance was courted by the sovereigns of

the East, and the Emperor Leo even asked for his son the hand of the

daughter of the kalgan, or chief of the nation. The forebodings of the

imperial government were soon realised, for in the short space of 150

years the Khazars, who had given their own name to the peninsula,

founded a vast monarchy, the limits of which extended in Europe beyond

the Danube, and in Asia to the foot of the Caucasus.

After the Khazars, whose fall was caused chiefly by the attacks of the

Russians, and who thenceforth disappeared entirely from the records of

history, the victorious Petchenegues ruled over the whole land except

the southern territory of Kherson, which was incorporated with the

Empire of the East. Under the sway of this other Asiatic people, the

trade and commerce of the peninsula revived, its intercourse with

Constantinople resumed activity, and the Tauric ports supplied the

merchants of the Lower Empire with purple, fine stuffs, embroidered

cloths, ermines, leopard skins, furs of all kinds, pepper, and spices,

which the Petchenegues purchased in Eastern Russia, south of the Kouban,

and in the Transcaucasian regions that extend to the banks of the Cyrus

and the Araxes. Thus began again for this unfortunate country a new era

of prosperity, unexampled for many previous centuries.

The dominion of the Petchenegues lasted 150 years, and then they

themselves endured the fate they had inflicted on the Khazars. Assailed

by the Comans, whom the growth of the Mongol power had expelled from

their own territory, they were beaten and forced to return into Asia.

The Comans, a warlike people, made Soldaya their capital; but they had

scarcely consolidated their power when they were obliged to give place

to other conquerors, and seek an abode in regions further west. With the

expulsion of the Comans ceased all those transient invasions which dyed

the soil of the Tauris with blood during ten centuries. The various

hordes that have left nothing but their name in history, were succeeded

by two remarkable peoples: the one, victorious over Asia, had just

founded the most gigantic empire of the middle ages; the other, issuing

from a trading city of Italy, was destined to make Khazaria the nucleus

of all the commercial relations between Europe and Asia.

With the Mongol invasion of 1226, the empire of the tzars entered on

that fatal period of servitude and oppression which has left such

pernicious traces in the national character of the Muscovites. Russia,

Poland, and Hungary, were successively overrun by the hordes of the

celebrated grandson of Genghis Khan; Khazaria was added to their

enormous conquests, and became, under the name of Little Tatary, the

cradle of a potent state, which maintained its independence down to the

end of the eighteenth century. Under the yoke of the Mongols the Tauris,

after being oppressed at first, soon recovered; Soldaya was restored to

the Christians, and soon proved that the resources of the country were

not exhausted, and that nothing but peace and quiet were wanted to

develop the elements of wealth with which nature had so liberally

endowed it. In a few years Soldaya became the most important port of the

Black Sea, and one of the great termini of the commercial lines between

Europe and Asia.

The greatness of Soldaya was, however, of short duration: another

people, more active, and endowed with a bolder spirit of mercantile

enterprise than the Greeks, came forward about the same period, and

concentrated in its own hands the whole heritage of the great epochs

that had successively shed lustre on the peninsula from the day when the

Milesians founded their first colonies on the Cimmerian Bosphorus. Being

already possessed of important factories in Constantinople, the Genoese

had long been aware of the circumstances of the Black Sea, and the

immense resources it would place at the disposal of enterprising men who

should there centralise for their own profit all the commercial

relations of Europe with Russia, Persia, and the Indies. The rivalry

which then existed between them and the Venetians, accelerated the

execution of their projects, and in 1820, after having secured the

territory of the ancient Theodosia, partly by fraud, partly by force,

they laid the foundation of the celebrated Caffa, through which they

became sure masters of the Black Sea, and sole proprietors of its

commerce. With the arrival of the Genoese the Tauris saw the most

brilliant epochs of its history revived. Caffa became by its greatness,

its population, and its opulence, in some degree the rival of

Constantinople, and its consuls, possessing themselves of Cerco,

Soldaya, and Cembalo, made themselves masters of all the southern coast

of the Crimea. Other equally profitable conquests were subsequently made

beyond the peninsula. The galleys of the republic entered the Palus

Maeotis; Tana, on the mouth of the Don, was wrested from the Tatars; a

fortress was erected at the mouth of the Dniestr; several factories were

established in Colchis, and on the Caucasian coast, and even the

imperial town of Trebisond was forced to admit one of the most important

factories of the republic on the Black Sea. The Genoese colonies thus

became the general emporium of the rich productions of Russia, Asia

Minor, Persia, and the Indies; they monopolised for more than two

centuries all the traffic between Europe and Asia, and presented a

marvellous spectacle of thriving greatness. All this glory had an end.

Mahomet's standard was planted over the dome of St. Sophia in 1453, and

the intercourse of the Crimea with the Mediterranean was broken off. The

destruction of the Genoese settlements was then inevitable; and the

republic, despairing of their preservation, assigned them over to the

bank of St. George, on the 15th of November, 1453. The consequences of

this cession which put an end to the political connexion of the colonies

with the mother state, were of course disastrous. Despair and loss of

public spirit fell upon the colonists, individual selfishness

predominated in all their councils, and the consular government, before

remarkable for its integrity and its virtues, instead of uniting with

the Tatars, and rendering its own position with regard to the Porte less

perilous, completely disgusted them by a total want of honesty, and by

selling its aid for gold to all the parties that were desolating the

Crimea. So many faults were followed by the natural catastrophe. Caffa

was forced to surrender at discretion to the Turks on the 6th of June,

1473, and some months afterwards all the points occupied by the Genoese

fell one by one into the hands of the Ottomans.

After the disaster of the Genoese colonies, the great lines of

communication of the trans-Caucasian regions, the Caspian, the Volga,

the Don, and the Kouban, were broken, having lost their feeders, and all

the commercial relations with Central Asia were for a while suspended.

The Venetians, who had obtained from the Turks the right of navigating

the Black Sea, in consideration of a yearly tribute of 10,000 ducats,

strove in vain to take the place their rivals had lost; they were

expelled in their turn from the Black Sea, the Dardanelles were closed

against all the nations of the West, and the Turks and their subjects,

the Greeks of the Archipelago, alone possessed the privilege of passing

through the strait. In our remarks on the Caspian we have already

pointed out the new outlets which the Eastern trade procured for itself

by way of Smyrna, and the great revolution which followed Vasco de

Gama's discovery.

Under the reign of the first khans, who were tributary to the Porte, the

Crimea lost all its commercial and agricultural importance. Continual

wars, and incessant revolts, sometimes favoured, sometimes punished by

the Porte, added to the still deeply-rooted habits of a nomade and

vagabond existence, for many years precluded the regeneration of the

country. But a rich fertile soil, and a country abundantly provided with

all the resources necessary to man, triumphed over the natural indolence

of the Tatars, just as they had done before by the savage hordes that

successively invaded the Tauris. The hill sides and valleys became

covered with villages, and all branches of native industry increased

rapidly with the internal tranquillity of the country. The corn, cattle,

timber, resins, fish, and salt of Little Tatary furnished freights for a

multitude of vessels. The commerce of Central Asia, it is true, was lost

for it beyond recovery, but the exportation of its native produce and of

that which Russia sent to it by the Don and the Sea of Azof, was more

than sufficient to keep its people in a very thriving, if not an opulent

condition. Caffa shared in the general improvement; it rose again from

its ruins, became the commercial centre of the country, as in the time

of the Genoese, and its advancement was such, that the Turks bestowed on

it the flattering name of Koutchouk Stamboul (Little Constantinople).

The dominion of the khans extended at this period, in Europe and Asia,

from the banks of the Danube to the foot of the mountains of the

Caucasus, and the indomitable mountaineers of Circassia themselves often

did homage to the sovereigns of the Tauris. The Mussulman population was

divided in those days into two great classes: the descendants of the

first conquerors, known by the special designation of Tatars; and the

Nogais, nomade tribes who, subsequently to the conquest, had come and

put themselves under the protection of the illustrious Batou khan. The

former, mixed up with the remains of the ancient possessors, formed the

civilised part of the nation. Possessing the mountainous regions, and

residing in towns and villages, they were both agriculturists and

manufacturers; whilst the Nogais, who lived in a manner independently in

Southern Russia, applied themselves solely to cattle rearing. They were

at that time divided into five principal hordes: the Boudjiak occupied

the plains of Bessarabia from the mouths of the Danube to the Dniestr;

the Yedisan, the largest, which could bring into the field 80,000

horsemen, encamped between the Dniestr and the Dniepr; the Djamboiluk

and Jedickhoul, the remnants of which still inhabit the territory of

their ancestors, extended from the banks of the Dniepr to the western

coasts of the Sea of Azof; lastly, the tribes of the Kouban, nomadised

in the steppes between that river and the Don, which now form the domain

of the Black Sea Cossacks. All these tribes collectively could, in case

of urgent necessity, bring into the field upwards of 400,000 men. Such

was the political condition of Little Tatary, when the Russian conquest

of the provinces of the Sea of Azof and the Black Sea destroyed all the

fruits of the great social revolution which had been effected in the

habits of the Mussulmans by the new development of trade and commerce.

The first Muscovite invasion took place in 1736. A hundred thousand men,

commanded by Field-marshal Munich forced the Isthmus of Perecop, entered

the peninsula, and laid waste the whole country, up to the northern

slope of the Tauric chain. The peace of Belgrade put an end to this

first inroad, but the political existence of Little Tatary was,

nevertheless, violently shaken; and from that time forth the khans were

kept in continual perplexity by the secret or armed interventions of

Russia, their subjects were stimulated to revolt, and they themselves

were but puppets moved by the court of St. Petersburg.

In 1783, Sahem Guerai abdicated in favour of the Empress Catherine II.,

and the kingdom of the Tatars, exhausted by extensive emigrations and

bloody insurrections, finally ceased to exist; and then perished rapidly

the last elements of the prosperity of a land that had been so often

ravaged, and had always emerged victoriously from its disasters.

Previously to this period, in 1778, the irresistible command of Russia

had determined the emigration of all the Greek and Armenian families of

the peninsula, and an agricultural and trading population had been seen

to quit, voluntarily as Russia pretends, fertile regions, and a

favouring climate, to settle in the savage steppes of the Don and the

Sea of Azof. About the same period, and under the same influence, began

the emigration of the Tatars and Nogais, some of whom retired into

Turkey, others joined the mountaineers of the Caucasus. The Russian

occupation accelerated this disastrous movement, and on the day when the

tzars extended their frontiers to the banks of the Dniestr, the

celebrated horde of Yedisan disappeared entirely from the soil of the

empire. The Tatars of the region between the Dniepr and the Sea of Azof

did not emigrate in such numbers as the others, for the imperial

government had hemmed them in, even previously to the conquest, by

formidable military lines on the east and on the west. The heaviest

calamities fell, of course, on the peninsula, which was covered with

fixed settlements, and was the centre of the Tatar civilisation and

power, and there the scenes of carnage and devastation which had marked

the irruption of the barbarians from Asia were renewed in all their

horrors. The peninsula lost at least nine-tenths of its population; its

towns were given up to pillage, its fields laid waste; and in the space

of a few months that region which had been still so nourishing under its

last khan, exhibited but one vast spectacle of oppression, misery, and

devastation.

Since that period there have elapsed sixty years, during which the

Russian domination has never had any resistance to encounter or revolt

to quell; and yet, notwithstanding the opening of the Dardanelles, the

Tauris has been unable, to this day, to rise from the deep depression

into which it was sunk by the political events of the close of the

eighteenth century. It is true, no doubt, that very handsome villas have

been erected on the southern coast, and that luxurious opulence has made

that region its chosen seat; but the vital and productive forces of the

peninsula have been smothered, its trade and agriculture have been

destroyed; and that bootless quietude in which the dwindled population

of the Tatars now vegetates, results, in fact, only from the destruction

of all material resources, and the extinction of all moral and

intellectual energy which have come to pass under the sway of the

Russian administration.

FOOTNOTES:

[76] Const. Porph. de adm. Imp., c. xiii.

CHAPTER XLII.

COMMERCIAL POLITY OF RUSSIA IN THE CRIMEA--CAFFA SACRIFICED

IN FAVOUR OF KERTCH--THESE TWO PORTS COMPARED--THE

QUARANTINE AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE SEA OF AZOF, AND ITS

CONSEQUENCES--COMMERCE OF KERTCH--VINEYARDS OF THE CRIMEA;

THE VALLEY OF SOUDAK--AGRICULTURE--CATTLE--HORTICULTURE--

MANUFACTURES; MOROCCO LEATHER--DESTRUCTION OF THE GOATS--

DECAY OF THE FORESTS--SALT WORKS--GENERAL TABLE OF THE

COMMERCE OF THE CRIMEA--PROSPECTS OF THE TATAR POPULATION.

When the Russian authority was fully established in the Crimea, and the

inevitable disasters attending the occupation of a country by Muscovite

troops had subsided, the imperial government seemed for a while disposed

to rekindle the embers of the peninsular prosperity. The Emperor

Alexander was personally acquainted with the intrinsic value of the

country, and manifested the best and most earnest intentions in its

favour; but unfortunately he could not overcome the inveterate habits of

the Russian functionaries, and their utter indifference to the true

interests of the empire. Half measures, therefore, were all that was

effected; custom-houses and quarantines were established, Caffa

exchanged its name for that of the Milesian colony, German villages were

founded,[77] large grants of land were made to Russians and strangers,

vines were planted, and the cultivation of the olive was attempted; but

all capital questions were overlooked or misconceived; no thought was

given to the matter of markets or to commercial relations; and the

government persisting in its prohibitive system, assimilated the Crimea

to the other provinces, in spite of strong remonstrances, and repudiated

all thoughts of mercantile freedom, the only means by which it could

have given new life to the Crimea, and created an active and industrious

population in the place of the Tatar tribes, of whom war and emigration

had deprived the country.

But in lieu of such privileges Caffa was from the first endowed with a

tribunal of commerce, a quarantine, and a custom-house of the first

class; and if it could not recover its old greatness under the new

domination, it might at least have expected to become one of the chief

places of export and import in southern Russia, within the bounds

prescribed by the exigencies of the customs. Situated at the extremity

of the Tauric chain, not far from the Cimmerian Bosphorus, possessing

the only trading port open to vessels in all seasons, in easy

communication with rich and productive regions, this town possessed

every possible claim to the peculiar attention of the Russian

government. But the hopes which had been at first conceived, were

entirely disappointed, and the unfortunate Theodosia was positively

devoted to abandonment and destruction.

It is not easy to determine the real motives for which the old Genoese

city was abandoned in favour of its rival on the Cimmerian Bosphorus.

The ostensible reasons were sanatory measures, the necessity of having a

general quarantine at the entrance of the Sea of Azof, encouragement of

coasters and lighters, and the utility of a vast emporium opened to the

productions of all Russia. We believe, however, that all these arguments

were in reality of very secondary weight, and that the downfall of

Theodosia is to be ascribed to nothing else than an absurd vanity. To

resuscitate the ancient name of _Odessus_; to found a town called

_Ovidiopol_ in a country where Ovid never resided; to lead our

geographers into error by giving the name of _Tiraspol_ to a mean

village on the Dniestr, in the front of Bender; to substitute the name

of _Theodosia_ for that of Caffa; all these innovations might have

pleased certain archaeologists, but how was it possible to resist the

thought of rebuilding the celebrated capital of the kingdom of the

Bosphorus? How irresistible the temptation to raise a new and great

city at the foot of Mithridates' rock! The memory of the Milesians had,

therefore, to fade before that of the illustrious sovereign of Pontus;

Theodosia was despoiled of its privileges and its revenues, its tribunal

of commerce was transferred to Kertch, and double arbour dues were

imposed on vessels touching there before arriving at the latter port.

Assuredly no stronger testimony could be borne to the superiority of

Theodosia than that which was embodied in these arbitrary measures, nor

could there be a more incontestible proof of the caprice to which the

Genoese town was sacrificed. Caffa was infinitely better fitted than

Kertch to satisfy those conditions which the official orders announced

as the grounds for destroying its commercial position. The Kertch roads

are often closed against vessels for three or four months continuously;

the anchorage is unsafe, and often disastrous, both from the want of

shelter and from the shallowness of the water. The port of Theodosia, on

the contrary, is always open, and shipwrecks are unknown there. During

the fine season an active service of lighters might have concentrated

there all the freights brought by the Don and the Sea of Azof. In this

way the commercial intercourse with Russia by the Black Sea would never

have suffered the least interruption; and, what is an incalculable

advantage in those latitudes, foreign vessels, being no longer

constrained to make the long and difficult passage to Taganrok, or to

run the risk of wintering in the ice, might, if they failed to obtain

freight at Theodosia, have proceeded in search of one without loss of

time to the southern shores of the Black Sea. All these grand

considerations, which had raised the prosperity of Caffa so high, were

superseded by the dictates of vanity.

Kertch then was declared, in 1827, a port of the first class, with a

custom-house of entry and exit. A vast lazaret was immediately

constructed, and five years afterwards appeared the famous sanatory

orders which still regulate the navigation of the Sea of Azof. The

duration of the quarantine was fixed at thirty days, but before that

time can begin to run, the vessel must be moored within the lazaret, and

every thing on board, including the effects of the crew, must be

subjected to a fumigation of twenty-four hours. This operation being

ended the sailors land, after having first divested themselves of all

their dress and portable articles; the sails are plunged in water by the

servants of the establishment, and the hull of the vessel is

disinfected. After these preliminaries, which often occupy from ten to

fifteen days, the sailors return to their vessels, and their days of

quarantine begin to count. All these regulations are in curious contrast

with those of the lazaret of Odessa, where the quarantine lasts only

fifteen days.

This new system, which was in fact an interdict upon the Sea of Azof,

told of course in favour of Kertch. But the factitious prosperity of

that town appears to us to have already reached its utmost limit, and we

doubt much that the best devised or most stringent orders can ever give

to its port those elements of commercial prosperity which nature has

refused to it. Hence we see, that to avoid the delay and cost of the

Kertch quarantine, the merchants of Taganrok and the neighbouring towns,

use lighters almost exclusively to carry their goods to the vessels

moored in the Cimmerian Bosphorus. On their arrival in the channel,

these lighters are put into the hands of the crew belonging to the

vessel to be freighted, and their men remain on shore during the

trans-shipment. This being accomplished, the lighters are fumigated for

twenty-four hours, and then taken back by the lightermen to the Sea of

Azof. All these operations, however, are tedious, costly, and uncertain;

and the only reason why the merchants have adopted this plan of

proceeding is, that they all are reluctant to incur the great expenses

of storing their goods in Kertch, and that the paucity of lighters,

together with the irregularity of the winds, and the many shoals in the

Sea of Azof, render shipments extremely expensive, so that no additional

charge could be easily borne. At the opening of the navigation in 1839,

freight between Taganrok and Kertch cost as much as four rubles per

tchetvert of wheat, and 1-1/2 in the course of the summer. M. Taitbout

de Marigny, who has paid great attention to all these matters, estimates

the freight charges in question as equivalent on the average to those

usually paid to Black Sea vessels bound for the Archipelago.[78]

A remarkable result of this whole system of quarantine and customs is as

follows. Suppose two vessels start simultaneously from the

Mediterranean, the one for Taganrok, the other for Odessa, and that the

latter failing to obtain a cargo, shall quit Odessa after its fifteen

days' quarantine, and sail for the Sea of Azof: there is every

probability that after remaining at Taganrok long enough to take in its

cargo, it will on its return still find the first vessel in the Kertch

roads, waiting to complete the formalities required before it can enter

the Sea of Azof. Such measures as these, would inevitably keep aloof

from the ports of the Sea of Azof, and even from that of Kertch, every

vessel that was sure of its cargo beforehand. It is needless to insist

afresh in this place on the superiority of Theodosia, considered as a

general entrepot of the goods arriving in the Sea of Azof, and of those

which might have flowed directly into its port through the Isthmus of

Arabat.

As for the commercial resources belonging intrinsically to the town of

Kertch, it is enough to look at its situation at the extremity of a

long, depopulated, and sterile peninsula, and its distance from every

route, whether political or commercial, to be assured that they must be

quite futile. Seven years after the creation of its port, the annual

customs' revenue had not risen above 1200 rubles. In 1840, the whole

quantity of corn that had issued from the town of Kertch since its

origin, whether directly or through the medium of its entrepots,

scarcely amounted to 5000 tchetverts, and the receipts of the

custom-house for the same year were but 695,130. If from this sum we

deduct 551,108, the amount of the excise on salt destined exclusively

for Russian consumption, and a further considerable sum produced by

other imposts, there will remain an exceedingly small amount to

represent the nett commercial revenue. The port of Kertch has,

therefore, by no means fulfilled the grand expectations so foolishly

conceived of it; it has ruined the great city of Theodosia, robbed the

Crimea of its commercial importance, cut off all chances of prosperity

from the ports of the Sea of Azof, and crippled navigation; and all this

without any profit worth speaking of to itself, and without the least

prospect of ever rising above the low condition in which it is doomed to

vegetate, both by its geographical situation, and the nature and

configuration of the adjacent regions.

The results have not been much more satisfactory as regards the growth

of the Russian mercantile navy. According to official reports, which we

believe exaggerated, there were, in 1840, in the Sea of Azof, 323

vessels measuring about 26,000,000 of kilogrammes, and manned by 1517

individuals. If we recollect that the Sea of Azof is but a marsh, the

greatest depth of which does not exceed fourteen metres, that the crafts

which ply in it, pursuing always the same invariable track, hardly

require the simplest rudiments of nautical skill for their management,

and that the navigation of the sea is usually interrupted during four or

five months of the year, it will be easily conceived that the maritime

advantages which may accrue to Russia, from the closing of the Sea of

Azof, must be very insignificant, not to say quite illusory.

We have now to examine the manufacturing and agricultural resources of

the Crimea, and the measures which have been taken by the imperial

government to further them. The cultivation of the vine may be

considered as at present the most important, if not the most productive

branch of industry in the country. When Russia took possession of it,

the vineyards were concentrated in the southern valleys of Soudak,

Kobsel, Koze, and Toklouk, and in those of the Katch, the Alma, &c., on

the northern slope of the Tauric chain. These vineyards which seem to

have existed from very remote antiquity, were all in the plain, where

they were subjected to continual irrigations after the system of the

Greeks and Tatars. The consequence of this mode of culture was that the

crops were extremely abundant, and the wine of a very poor quality.[79]

After the Russian occupation, however, the business of vine-growing

increased considerably in the northern valleys, which were soon

frequented by the merchants of the interior, who were attracted both by

the extraordinary cheapness of the produce, and by the facilities of

transport. Thus the wines of the Crimea found their way into the

interior of the empire, but they were chiefly used for mixing and

adulteration; the small quantity that was sold in its original state was

always of very bad quality, so that the peninsular wines were in very

bad repute, and for a long while lost all chance of sale. This

well-merited depreciation was such that even in our own day a merchant

of eminence in Moscow or St. Petersburg would have thought it a serious

disgrace to him to admit into his cellars a few bottles of Crimean wine.

Such was the state of the vine cultivation in the Crimea, when Count

Voronzof was named governor-general of New Russia. Under his active and

enterprising administration, a bold attempt was made to change the whole

system of cultivation, so as to produce wines capable of competing

advantageously with those of foreign countries.[80] The valleys, with

their method of irrigation, were therefore abandoned, and the preference

was given to the long strip of schistous and _eboulement_ grounds which

stretches along the seaside between Balaklava and Alouchta, on the

southern coast. Count Voronzof set the example with his characteristic

ardour; his first operations took place in 1826 at Aidaniel,[81] and six

years afterwards he was the owner of 72,000 vine plants. The example of

the governor-general was quickly followed, and in 1834, there were

already 2,000,000 stocks in the country, from cuttings brought chiefly

from the Rhenish and the French provinces.

When the vines were in full bearing, the next thing to be considered was

to find a market for their produce; but here arose a great and

unforeseen difficulty, and the brilliant expectations of the planters

were soon miserably disappointed. In spite of the difficulties of the

route, some merchants yielded to the earnest solicitations of the

governor-general and his imitators, and arrived on the coast to

purchase; but the demands of the proprietors were exorbitant; their

first outlay had been very great, and their produce small, yet they were

bent on realising at once the amount of their investments. They thought,

too, that by setting a high price on their wines, they would secure

their reputation; accordingly they fixed it at twenty to twenty-five

rubles the vedro (0.1229 hectolitres), and immediately they lost all

chance of sale.

The business prospered better in the valley of the Soudak, where the

same modifications had been introduced into the culture of the vine. The

hill wines were sold at the rate of twelve to fifteen rubles the vedro,

and those of the plain at five and six. But this did not last long; in

1840 the wine growers of Soudak could no longer dispose of their stock,

though they had reduced their prices to two and three rubles for the

best qualities, and to one and one and a half for the lowland wines. As

to the wine-growers of the southern coasts, they were very glad at that

time if they could find purchasers at the rate of five or six rubles the

vedro.

Several causes contributed to these unfortunate results. The southern

coast, as we have already said, consists of a long narrow strip of

argillaceous schist and detritus, with a very steep inclination, and

overtopped throughout its length by high cliffs of jura limestone. In

consequence of these topographical conditions, the heat is very great in

summer; the soil, which is quite destitute of watercourses, dries

rapidly, and the many ravines by which it is intersected, completely

deprives it of any little moisture that may remain in it. The scarcity

of rain augments these disadvantages, so that the vine plants procured

from abroad degenerate rapidly; as the grapes cannot ripen before

autumn, the wine loses much in quality; and, moreover, the quantity is

far from abundant, in proportion to the extent of the ground. These

circumstances, combined with those occasioned by the desire to exalt the

wines of the Crimea in public opinion, inflame both the pretensions of

the proprietors and the indifference of the merchants, who could never

have disposed of the coast wine at the high prices asked for it. These

were afterwards considerably diminished, but not sufficiently to produce

any effect. Whatever be said to the contrary, it is certain that the

wines of the southern Crimea can never sustain any sort of comparison

with those of France or the Rhine; hence they continued to be held in

low repute, and the merchants of the interior still found it more to

their advantage to make their purchases in the northern valleys, which

were easy of access, and where the wine was incomparably cheaper. In

spite of all their efforts, therefore, the wine-growers of the southern

coast could not find a market for their produce, and were obliged to

consume the chief part of it themselves.

It may, perhaps, excite surprise that no attempt has been made to evade

the difficulties of land-carriage by seeking outlets by sea, and

procuring customers in the great maritime towns of Russia. But unluckily

there exists between Russia and Greece an ancient treaty, which the

tzars, for political considerations no doubt, persist in religiously

observing, and by virtue of which Greek wines are received almost free

of duty in the imperial ports. Whoever is aware of the prodigious

quantity and incredible cheapness of the wines of the Archipelago, and

of the great facilities they afford for effecting mixtures and

adulterations, will easily conceive, that with such a competition to

encounter, the sale of Crimean wines became absolutely impossible. If

the culture of the vine in the Crimea was induced by encouragements on

the part of the government, then the landowners were grossly duped. But,

as we shall explain by and by, the ministry seem never to have looked

favourably on this branch of industry, and the vine-growers have only

their own extreme want of forethought to blame for all the disasters

that have befallen them.

At Soudak, however, the mischief appears to us attributable solely to

the misconduct of the authorities. We have already stated that the

vintage speculations of Soudak were at first much more prosperous than

those of the southern coast. The situation of the valley, which is of

very easy access for northern traffic, and the decided preference of the

German colonists for white wines, for many years kept the fine plain of

Soldaya in a thriving if not an opulent condition. But unfortunately,

that western part of the coast not being within the region which the

governor-general and the great landowners had taken under their special

protection, Soudak was completely abandoned to her own resources; her

roads were left without repairs, and the local administration took no

measures whatever for the preservation of order and the security of

individuals. When I visited the coast in 1840, the roads of this

district were in the most deplorable condition;[82] they were strewed

with fragments of carts and casks; a German waggoner was killed in my

presence by the breaking down of his waggon; thieving and pillage were

the order of the day in the valley, and the proprietors could only

preserve their chattels by keeping a close personal watch upon them day

and night.

The consequences of this culpable neglect may readily be imagined.

Purchasers diminished in number year by year, the wines lost their

value, and the unfortunate proprietors with large stocks on hand were

reduced to great poverty. All sorts of expedients were adopted under the

pressure of the calamity; the wines were turned into vinegar, but again

the speculation failed for want of a market. We heartily desire that our

reasonable remonstrances in favour of Soudak may reach the imperial

government, so that effectual measures may be taken to revive the great

natural wealth of that magnificent valley. We do not know the intentions

of the present finance minister, but it is to be hoped that he will not

partake the narrow views of his predecessor. Count Cancrini was a

fanatic partisan of the consumption of foreign wines, and at the same

time the declared enemy of the home growth, which he regarded as most

injurious to the customs' revenue of the empire.

In the present state of things it is not easy to predict the future

fortunes of the Crimean wine production. For our own part, we are

thoroughly convinced that France has no sort of competition to fear on

the part of those regions. Whether the cultivation of the vine be

concentrated in the valleys or on the hill sides, we do not think that

the vintage can ever rival ours. It has been very justly remarked that

wherever the vine and the olive grow together, the wines cannot have

that delicacy and that _bouquet_ which belong only to our temperate

climates. We believe, however, that if the wines of the Archipelago were

subjected to higher duties, if the means of transport were rendered more

facile, and increased cultivation were given to the more open hill sides

that extend towards the east of the Tauric chain, the Crimea would soon

be enabled to supply the demand of the whole empire for the commoner

sorts of wine, and the result would, perhaps, be extremely advantageous

in diminishing the mischievous use of ardent spirits. Such a change as

this would evidently be not at all prejudicial to French commerce, which

sends only wines of the first quality to the south of Russia.

According to a report printed in the Russian journals of 1834, and cited

by M. Dubois, the 7,100,000 vine plants, contained in that year on the

old and new plantations, were distributed as follows:--

South-west coast of the Crimea 1,600,000

Soudak and south-east coast 2,000,000

Valley of the Katch 2,000,000

" the Alma 500,000

" the Belek 500,000

German colonies 500,000

The wine yielded by the vintage of 1832, was 32,307 hectolitres, of

which 1694 were the produce of the south-west coast, 6050 that of

Soudak, and 7865 that of the valley of the Katch.

The plantations have augmented considerably since that time; we cannot

venture, however, to accept as authentic, the following statistics of

the annual production of the Crimea, given us by landowners in 1840:--

Valley of Soudak 80,000 vedros 9,760 hectolitres

Southern coast 120,000 " 14,640 "

Northern valleys 750,000 " 91,500 "

We have not much to say of the other branches of agriculture; they are

all in the most deplorable state. The magnificent forests, yielding such

quantities of timber, that formerly clothed the mountains, are rapidly

disappearing. Camel breeding, formerly very productive to the Tatars of

the plain, has given place to lank flocks of merinos. The most fertile

valleys are in the same state of desolation in which they were left by

the great calamities at the close of the last century, and the peninsula

now produces scarcely corn enough for its own consumption. Horticulture

alone has made any real progress. Some foreigners practise it with

profit in the northern valleys, which for many years past have enjoyed

the privilege of supplying all the fruit used at the tables of Moscow

and St. Petersburg.

Manufactories are almost in the same state of decay as agriculture.

Morocco and other leathers formerly constituted an important part of the

exports from the Crimea; at present the value of these exports is no

more than 129,646 rubles. It is about five years since this branch of

industry was ruined. All that time there existed on the mountains of the

peninsula a great quantity of goats, which being left at liberty,

caused, it must be confessed, much damage to the forests, by nipping off

the young shoots. According to the usual Russian practice of attacking

secondary causes rather than going at once to the root of any evil, the

local administration could devise nothing better in the case than to

proclaim a war of extermination, by giving every one the right of

hunting and killing goats, in all places and at all seasons. The goats

were almost all destroyed, and with them fell of necessity the greater

part of the manufactories for morocco leather. It would certainly have

been easy for authorities, possessed of any practical ability, to

preserve the forests without exterminating the goats; but as they would

not, or could not, deal with the real destroyers, the noble landowners,

they wreaked their spite on the quadrupeds. It is really inconceivable

with what rapidity the finest forests of the Crimea are disappearing;

year by year whole hills are totally stripped, and the government, stern

as it has shown itself against the goats, takes no means to check this

fatal devastation. Several great landowners are engaged in lawsuits

gravely affecting their rights, and meanwhile, until their causes shall

have been decided, they use their opportunity to cut timber as fast as

possible. Foremost in those proceedings is Admiral Mordvinof, who has

already destroyed the exceedingly rich forests that clothed the hills

above the valley of Baidar. The effects of this clearing away of the

forests are already felt severely; the rivers are diminishing in volume,

a great number of springs have run dry, and fire wood, now costs as much

as forty rubles the fathom at Ialta.

Another branch of industry, likewise very profitable in former times,

was the working of the rich salt-pits in the environs of Kozlov

(Eupatoria). Only a few years ago eighty vessels used to come to the

port from Anatolia, to take in cargo. The price of the salt was then

very low, but the trade was nevertheless a source of employment and

profit for all the surrounding population. The minister of finance was

jealous of the profits realised by individuals in this trade, and

therefore laid a considerable export duty on the salt. In the following

year not a single vessel came from Anatolia, and it was soon ascertained

that, prompted by necessity, the people of the southern shores of the

Black Sea had found rich salt-pits in their own territory.

The following table of the commerce of the Crimea in 1838 and 1839, is

taken from official documents. The figures contained in it are in our

opinion exaggerated, for they do not by any means agree with those

resulting from the detailed table we shall give further on.

------------+-----------------------+-----------------------

| IMPORTS. | EXPORTS.

|-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

| 1838. | 1839. | 1838. | 1839.

------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

| rubles. | rubles. | rubles. | rubles.

| | | |

Kertch | 175,321 | 250,887 | 226,999 | 123,082

Theodosia | 673,535 | 695,130 | 1,281,244 | 955,108

Eupatoria | 185,480 | 131,222 | 2,299,365 | 2,394,867

Balaclava | 6,605 | | |

+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

Total | 1,040,941 | 1,077,239 | 3,807,608 | 3,473,057

------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

Be it remarked that among the exports corn alone figured in 1839 for

835,486 rubles for Theodosia, and 1,755,052 rubles for Eupatoria; and as

all this corn came from countries beyond the Crimea, the nullity of the

peninsular exportation is apparent. Moreover, the gross total of three

and a half millions is scarcely the fifteenth part of the annual

exportation of the town of Odessa alone. In order to give a more exact

idea of the industrial and commercial situation of the Crimea, we set

down the details of its exports and imports in 1839.

IMPORTS.

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

ARTICLES. | KERTCH. | THEODOSIA. | EUPATORIA.|

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

| rubles. | rubles. | rubles. |

Cotton | 49,993 | 33,650 | |

Cotton thread | 4,080 | 4,986 | |

Turkish cotton cloths | 14,164 | 532,976 | |

Chairs | 5,750 | | |

Wooden vessels | 3,645 | 2,441 | |

Woollen caps | 4,504 | 29,218 | |

Oil | 20,636 | 3,589 | 16,997 |

Sickles | 5,000 | | |

Wines | 12,069 | 2,190 | 2,342 |

Porter | 4,600 | 2,171 | |

Cassonade | 14,354 | | |

Fresh and dried fruit | 100,402 | 15,107 | 27,464 |

Fine pearls | | 4,000 | |

Coffee | | 4,319 | 25,102 |

Linen thread | | 2,204 | |

Nard juice and grapes | | 6,269 | |

Turkish tobacco | | 3,345 | 7,823 |

Olives | | 3,467 | |

Raw silk | | 9,008 | |

Dyed silk thread | | 20,915 | |

Oak galls | | | 20,387 |

Colours | | | 13,814 |

Vegetables | | | 2,122 |

Pepper | | | 3,063 |

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

EXPORTS.

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------

ARTICLES. | KERTCH. | THEODOSIA. | EUPATORIA.

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------

| rubles. | rubles. | rubles.

Raw hides | 15,152 | 22,653 | 68,312

Fish | 7,310 | |

Red caviar | 13,113 | |

Linseed | 6,100 | |

Rapeseed | 6,600 | |

Wheat | 31,040 | 745,031 | 1,544,313

Wool | 41,185 | 19,087 | 344,997

Cordage | | 3,275 |

Woollen felt | | 7,670 | 31,424

Tanned leather | | 18,375 | 5,150

Flax, hemp, and stuffs | | 11,323 | 27,065

Butter | | 8,133 | 61,445

Bar iron | | 2,340 | 14,700

Salt | | 8,813 | 5,700

Soda | | 4,691 |

Rye | | 48,157 | 66,600

Barley | | 39,485 | 1,333,640

Millet | | 2,870 | 1,910

Glue | | | 3,494

Raw Hemp | | | 3,264

Locks | | | 22,296

Copper utensils | | | 3,050

Brass, and brass wire | | | 4,650

Cutlery | | | 13,509

Swords and epaulettes | | | 3,000

Sheep skins | | | 3,650

Suet | | | 11,893

Turpentine | | | 2,100

Beans | | | 8,589

Flour | | | 2,120

Raw silk | | | 3,200

---------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------

We do not at all coincide in opinion with those who attribute the

decadence we have just described to the general character of the people

of the East. The Orientals, it is true, have none of that feverish

activity which characterises the people of our climes; besides which

their wants are so limited and so easily satisfied, that they can never,

in their present social condition, become strenuous workers. Yet we have

seen that the Tatars, when they first occupied the country, were

distinguished for their agricultural and industrial labours, whether it

was in consequence of their mixture with the old races, or merely of the

propitious climate; they also employed themselves with such success in

gardening and the cultivation of the vine and of corn, that the Crimea

under the khans was considered one of the chief regions whence

Constantinople drew its supplies. It was only the steppe tribes, whose

sole wealth was their cattle, that remained true to their primitive

habits and their nomade life. In like manner there exists to this day a

very striking difference, both intellectual and physical, between the

two fractions of the Mussulman race of the Crimea.

We believe, therefore, that under a better system it would have been

easy to revive the laborious disposition of the Tatars by facilitating

and encouraging commercial transactions, and gradually effacing the

disheartening apprehensions under which the Mussulman population have

naturally laboured since their great calamities befel them. Assuredly we

cannot blame Russia for that depopulation of the country which was the

first cause of its decadence. As victors, the Russians used all the

rights of the strong hand to consolidate their conquest and extinguish

all chance of insurrection. The means no doubt were violent, disastrous,

and often even exceeded all the bounds of humanity; yet it was scarcely

possible but that excesses should be committed in a war between Russian

Christians and Mussulman Tatars, who had so often braved, triumphed

over, and swayed the Muscovite power. In fairness, therefore, we can

only criticise the measures adopted by the Russian government

subsequently to the conquest, from the day when the country was

completely pacified, and the Tatars submitted implicitly to the new

yoke, and lost all hope of deliverance.

We have already seen how an act of caprice annihilated the commercial

prosperity of Theodosia, which would naturally have had the greatest

influence over the industrial development of the peninsula; and we have

pointed out the mischievous measures that ruined various branches of the

native trade. To these depressing causes, for which the government with

its fatal system of prohibition and its half measures is alone

responsible, we must add others no less active, because they principally

affect the agricultural population who stand most in need of

encouragement. We have already repeatedly mentioned the countless

depredations of the inferior government agents. In the Crimea the

difference of religion and language, and the difficulty of making any

kind of appeal for redress, naturally rendered the local administration

more troublesome and rapacious than in any other province. The

consequence was that the Tatars led a life of fear and distrust,

agriculture languished, and every man cultivated yearly only as much as

was necessary for the subsistence of his family, that he might not

excite the cupidity of the _employes_.

On his accession to the government, Count Voronzof, with his natural

kindness, applied himself strenuously to improve the condition of the

Tatars; he took them under his special protection, and prevented the

rapacity of his underlings as far as in him lay. Unfortunately, his

efforts could hardly avail beyond the limits of his own estates, and all

his generous intentions were baffled or worn out by the incessant

pettyfogging arts of the _employes_. Nothing could more signally

exemplify the distrustful feelings of the Tatars, than the events which

occurred during the famine of 1833, which was so great that whole

families perished of hunger. Moved by these misfortunes the government

offered aid to the Tatars, but incredible as it may appear, the

proffered succours were generally refused, so much did the Mussulmans

dread the price which would be afterwards exacted for such assistance.

Towards 1840, after the creation of the ministry of the domains of the

crown under Count Kizilev, the imperial government set about the task in

which Count Voronzof had failed. Men of the best character for

intelligence and probity were sent to the Crimea, but their efforts were

all ineffectual, and they soon retired in disgust from the useless

struggle. The unfortunate Crimea was again surrendered to the unlimited

power and endless knaveries of the captain _ispravniks_, and of the

worthy subaltern agents of the local administration.

What are the destinies ultimately reserved for the Mussulman population

of the Crimea,[83] now numbering barely 100,000 souls?[84] We are

strongly inclined to anticipate its total extinction at a more or less

remote date. The tribes are rapidly degenerating; the moral and physical

forces of the nation are daily declining; the territorial wealth of the

Tatars has been destroyed, sold, or divided; the native families

distinguished for their past history or for their fortunes have

disappeared; the population, instead of increasing, diminishes. There

remains, therefore, no element of vitality to revive the effete remains

of a power that made Russia tremble during so many centuries, and that

even menaced for a while the political existence of all Europe.

FOOTNOTES:

[77] These colonies now consist of nine villages, with a population of

1800 souls.

[78] _Trade of the Sea of Azof, in 1838 and 1839._

--------------------+-----------------------+----------------------

| IMPORTS. | EXPORTS.

+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

| 1838. | 1839. | 1838. | 1839.

| Rubles. | Rubles. | Rubles. | Rubles.

| | | |

Taganrok {Goods | 5,887,901 | 5,334,369 | 7,666,943 |13,813,323

{Cash | 1,414,596 | 2,885,279 | |

| | | |

Marcoupol {Goods | 300 | 987 | 3,422,107 | 6,276,882

{Cash | 640,660 | 1,515,525 | |

| | | |

Rostof on {Goods | | | 3,205,406 | 6,078,037

the Don {Cash | | | |

| | | |

Bordiansk {Goods | | | 2,971,426 | 4,107,638

{Cash | 768,722 | 825,113 | |

+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

Total | 8,712,179 |10,561,273 |17,265,882 |30,275,880

--------------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

[79] De La Mottraye, who visited the Crimea in 1711, speaks of a Soudak

wine the flavour of which he compares with Burgundy. At that period the

wines of the northern valleys sold at 2-1/2 centimes the bottle. In

Peyssonel's time, in 1762, the Soudak wines fetched from 32 to 38

centimes the bottle; those of Belbek 22 to 25, and those of Katch, of

which De La Mottraye speaks, 13 to 15. The Ukraine Cossacks and the

Zaporogues consumed the greatest portion of these wines; about 1210

hectolitres annually according to Peyssonel. In 1784, at the time of the

Russian occupation, the price of Soudak wine was 5 to 6 centimes the

litre; it rose to 65 centimes in 1793, during the war with Turkey.--(See

Pallas, Voyage dans la Russie Meridionale.)

[80] Previously to Count Voronzof, M. Rouvier, who introduced the breed

of merino sheep into Russia, had planted vines from Malaga on the hill

sides of Laspi, at the western extremity of the chain; but his example

had not many imitators.

[81] Aidaniel is north-east of Ialta, a little town, the chief station

for steamboats.

[82] Of roads perfectly practicable for wheeled vehicles there exist in

the Crimea: 1. The road leading from Simpheropol to Sevastopol, skirting

the northern slope of the Tauric chain; its length is thirty-nine

English miles; 2. That from Simpheropol to Ialta, crossing the mountains

at the foot of the Tchatir Dagh, forty-nine miles; 3. That from Ialta to

Balaclava, proceeding along the southern coast as far as Foros, where it

passes on to the northern side of the mountains; its length is forty

miles between Ialta and Foros; the second portion was in course of

construction in 1840. This line of road seems to us extremely

ill-contrived. It has been carried along the very foot of the

jura-limestone cliffs, for the purpose of avoiding expense in crossing

the ravines; and thus it is completely exterior to the vine-growing and

cultivable district, and every proprietor who desires to use it must

make a private road at his own expense, in order to reach the elevated

level of the highway. We say nothing of the roads in the plains, the

construction of which, just as in the interior of Russia, consists

merely in tracing the breadth and direction by a ditch on either side.

[83] Hitherto the Tatars have been exempted from military service; they

are merely required to furnish one squadron to the imperial guard, to be

discharged every five years. As for the taxes imposed on them they

amount to the illusory sum of 8_s._ 4_d._ for every male individual, not

including duty work on roads, transports, &c.

[84] The total population of the Crimea is about 200,000, including

Russians, Greeks, Armenians, Karaites, Germans, and other foreigners.

CHAPTER XLIII.

HISTORICAL SKETCH OF BESSARABIA.

TOPOLOGY--ANCIENT FORTRESSES--THE RUSSIAN POLICY IN

BESSARABIA--EMANCIPATION OF THE SERFS--COLONIES--

CATTLE--EXPORTS AND IMPORTS--MIXED POPULATION OF THE

PROVINCE.

To complete our account of the southern regions of Russia, it remains

for us to speak of Bessarabia, the most remote province which the tzars

possess on the shores of the Black Sea, and the country which formed,

down to the commencement of the present century, one of the most

valuable possessions of the principality of Moldavia. We will not now

endeavour to withdraw the veil that covers the history of past ages, or

discuss the effects produced upon this province by the expeditions of

Darius and of Alexander, the Roman conquests, the Tatar invasions, and

the Mussulman dominion: we will confine ourselves to contemporaneous

facts, the only ones which can have some chance of exciting, if not

interest, at least curiosity.

Bessarabia is bounded on the south by the Danube, north and east by the

Dniepr and the Black Sea, and west by the Pruth, which separates it from

Moldavia, and by Bukovine, a dependency of Austria. It thus forms

between two rivers which might easily be rendered navigable, a strip of

more than 375 English miles in length, with an average breadth not

exceeding fifty. This strip, which expands gradually as it approaches

the sea, is divided into two regions, totally distinct both in

population and in topographical character. The southern part, to which

the Tatars have given the name of Boudjiak, consists of the flat country

which extends to the sea between the mouths of the Danube and lower part

of the Dniestr. It has all the characteristics of the Russian steppes,

possesses but a few insignificant streams, and is chiefly fitted for

rearing cattle; it yields little to tillage, except in some localities

along the watercourses, where numerous colonies of Germans and

Bulgarians are settled. The northern part adjoining Austria is, on the

contrary, a hill country, beautifully diversified, covered with

magnificent forests, and rich in all the productions of the most

favoured temperate climates.

At the period when the Russians appeared on the banks of the Dniestr,

the Boudjiak steppes were occupied by Nogai Tatars, nomades for the most

part, who after having been at first tributary to the khans of the

Crimea, had placed themselves under the protection of the Porte; whilst

the northern region was possessed by a numerous Moldavian population,

essentially agricultural, subjected to the laws of serfdom, and

acknowledging the authority of the hospodars of Jassy. The Ottoman

power was represented solely by military garrisons holding peaceful

possession of the two fortresses of Ismael and Kilia on the Danube, and

those of Khotin, Bender, and Ackerman, on the Dniestr.

The fortress of Ismael is famous for the sieges sustained in it by the

Turks against Souvarof. Its fortifications have not been much increased

by Russia; she keeps in it a numerous garrison, and a considerable

amount of artillery. The little flotilla of the Danube is stationed at

the foot of the walls. The fort of Kilia is now quite abandoned.

The fortress of Khotin is half of Genoese, half of Turkish construction.

The citadel or castle is an irregular square, flanked by enormous

towers. The Turks and the Russians have added new fortifications to the

old works, without however increasing the strength of the position. In

the present state of military art, Khotin is of no importance whatever.

Commanded on all sides by hills, and situated on the very edge of the

Dniestr, it would not resist a regular siege of a few hours. The walls

consist of courses of brick and cut stone, and bear numerous Genoese

inscriptions. Over the principal gate are seen a lion and a leopard,

chained beside an elephant bearing a tower. These figures are in the

Eastern style, and date from the time of the Turks. The doors and the

uprights of the windows are adorned with verses from the Koran. The

great mosque of the fortress has unfortunately been demolished, and

nothing remains of it but its minaret, which stands alone in the midst

of the place, as if to protest against the vandalism of the conquerors.

On the other side of the Dniestr, at a short distance from the river, is

Kaminietz, the capital of Podolia.

Bender and Ackerman likewise possess two castles of Genoese and Turkish

construction: the latter situated on the liman of the Dniestr, has been

abandoned; the former, which stands on the main road to Turkey, has a

garrison. Between Bender and Khotin, on the banks of the Dniestr, are

the ruins of a fourth fortress called Soroka, which merits a special

description, inasmuch, as it is altogether different from the other

edifices we have noticed in Southern Russia. It forms a circular

enclosure of thirty-one metres, interior diameter. At four equidistant

points of the circumference, stand as many towers, projecting externally

in a semi-cylindrical form, whilst on the interior they are prismatic.

Between the two towers on the river side, there is a fifth which

commands the single gate of the castle. The interior diameter of the

towers is 5.5 metres; the thickness of the walls is 3.8 metres. They

have embrasures in the upper parts, and a few openings at various

heights. All round the walls in the inner court there is a circular

range of apartments on the ground, in tolerable preservation, and

consisting of ten casemates seven metres deep, lighted only from within.

They formed probably, the stables of the fortress. Above this range are

the remains of an upper story, which, of course, served with the towers

for lodging the garrison. The whole building exhibits the greatest

solidity, and the mortar is wonderfully hard. But it is a bitter

disappointment to the traveller that there are no inscriptions on the

walls, or sculpture of any kind to fix the date of the edifice. The

fortress never had ditches; its strength consists only in the height and

thickness of its walls. The only entrance is towards the Dniestr, four

or five yards from the scarp that flanks the river. This arrangement was

probably adopted in order to secure a means of retreat, and of receiving

provisions by way of the river.--The general appearance of the castle

reminded me of the Roman fortresses erected against the barbarians,

remains of which exist in many parts of Europe.

Bessarabia was justly considered, at the period referred to above, as

one of the most fertile and productive provinces of the Black Sea.

Ismael and Remy were its two great export markets for corn; Ackerman

sent numerous cargoes of fruit and provisions of all kinds yearly to

Constantinople; the magazines of the fortresses were profusely filled

with wheat and maize; the countless flocks of the Boudjiak steppes

supplied wool to the East and to Italy; and Austria alone drew from them

annually upwards of 60,000 heads of cattle. Such were the circumstances

of Bessarabia at the time when the Russians, in the worst moment of

their disasters, at the very time when Napoleon was entering their

ancient capital, had the courageous cleverness to obtain the cession of

that province, and advance their frontier to the Danube, at the same

time securing the inestimable advantage of being free to withdraw their

troops from it, and march them against the invader.

When the Russians took possession, the Nogais, many tribes of whom had

previously emigrated, completely forsook their old possessions, and

withdrew beyond the Danube, and thus there remained in Bessarabia only

the Moldavian population, who were Greek Christians, like the Russians.

The conduct of the government towards the Bessarabians was at first as

accommodating and liberal as possible. Official pledges were given them,

that they should retain their own language, laws, tribunals, and

administrative forms of all kinds. The governors of the country were

chosen from among the natives, and the province remained in the full

enjoyment of its commercial immunities and franchises, which were the

grand bases of its agricultural prosperity. But these valuable

privileges soon begot jealousies; the old administration fell into

discredit through its own injudicious pretensions, and perhaps also in

consequence of political intrigues against it, and it became exposed to

the incessant hostility even of the boyars. The outcry was so great,

that the Emperor Alexander, wishing to satisfy the population,

determined that a new constitution should be framed, which should be

more in harmony with the habits, the wants, and the state of

civilisation of the country.

A committee of twenty-eight was appointed to draw up this constitution,

conspicuous among whom was M. Pronkoul, one of the most eminent boyars

of the country. He had the chief hand in framing the constitution, and

he promoted the adoption of its most liberal articles, with a very

laudable spirit and much cleverness, no doubt, but with by no means a

just discernment of the state of things. As soon as the commission had

completed its task, Alexander visited Bessarabia, in 1818, and was

welcomed with the most cordial gladness, and the most sumptuous

rejoicings. He received from the province a national present of 5000

horses, and was quite amazed at the prosperity and the inexhaustible

resources of his new conquest. It was naturally desired to take the

opportunity of his presence for the ratification of the new

constitution; but that was not to be had so readily, since it brought in

question the principle of the political unity of the empire. It was

rightly represented to Alexander that it would be imprudent and

impolitic to give a final and decisive sanction to a system, the real

value and fitness of which could only be made known by time. The emperor

yielded to these considerations, and merely ordered that the

constitution should be put in force, without prejudice to the future.

The fundamental principles of this constitution were as liberal as

possible; too liberal, indeed, to have had the slightest chance of

enduring. Bessarabia retained all its nationality; the governor and the

vice-governor alone could be Russians, all the other functionaries were

to be Moldavians; the province continued to enjoy all commercial

immunities, and the finances, too, were under the immediate inspection

and control of the natives. To any man of common sense and foresight,

the maintenance of such a constitution was a chimera. Was it to be

imagined that Russia would allow the subsistence of a conquered province

on its extreme frontiers, in contact with Turkey, governing itself by

its own laws, and possessing an administration diametrically opposed to

that which controls the other governments of the empire?

The Moldavian boyars nevertheless considered the promulgation of the

constitution as a victory, and thought in their infatuation they might

defy all the chances of the future. But events soon undeceived them, and

the mismanagement of their own institutions provoked the first blow

against their privileges. In accordance with old customs the government

continued to sell the taxes by auction, and they were generally farmed

by the great landowners of the province. This vicious system of finance,

which had been practised under the Oriental regimen of the hospodars,

could not fail to have fatal consequences under the new system of

things. As we have already said, Bessarabia had retained her commercial

freedom in its full extent after her union with Russia. It rapidly

degenerated into an abuse, through the improvident prodigality of the

Moldavians, and the extravagant ideas of civilisation and progress that

fermented in all their brains; luxury increased beyond measure among the

nobles, and Kichinev, the capital, became famous through all the

country for its sumptuous festivities, and the wealth of its ware-rooms.

The consequence was that the receipts of the treasury proceeded in the

inverse ratio of the progress of luxury; and the farmers, whose expenses

swallowed up more than the revenue, were last unable to pay the sums

they had contracted for. The imperial government was of course indulgent

during the first years, and had not recourse to any severe measures.

This conduct encouraged the defaulters, and the disorder of the finances

at last reached such a pass as called indispensably for the strenuous

intervention of the imperial government. The commercial franchises of

the province were suppressed therefore in 1822, the prohibitive system

of the imperial customs was introduced, and the payment of all arrears

was rigorously exacted. This last measure of course gave occasion to

endless suits and executions, and so the ruin of the principal families

was accomplished at the same time as the destruction of all their

political influence, and the government had then only to fix the day

when its principles of political unity should have complete force in its

new conquest.

The constitution thus impaired, subsisted, however, until the death of

Alexander; but on the accession of Nicholas it was completely

suppressed; Bessarabia was deprived of all its privileges, and even of

its language, and was assimilated in all points of administration to the

other provinces of the empire; with the exception, however, that the

government, in order to ensure the ulterior success of its measures,

took from the inhabitants the right of electing their captain

ispravniks, or officers of rural police.[85]

So radical a revolution could not be effected without bringing with it

serious perturbations. It is enough to recollect what we have said of

the venality of the public functionaries, in order to guess what the

Bessarabians must have had to endure at the hands of that multitude of

Russian _employes_ who took up their quarters in the towns and villages.

The intrigues and pettyfogging artifices of these men complicated more

and more the already numerous lawsuits; and the daily increasing

perplexities in the relations between the landowners, the freedmen, and

the serfs, overthrew all the elements of the national wealth. To all

these causes of disorganisation were added the military occupation of

the country in the time of the Turkish war, and this was the more

onerous because the rich procured themselves exemption for money, and

the whole burden fell on the petty proprietors and the peasants.

When the country fell into this state of exhaustion, the boyars were

not slow to remonstrate: and they did so with such vehemence, on the

occasion of the journey of the Emperor Nicholas, in 1827, that he

resolved to have a commission appointed, to report to him at St.

Petersburg, on the grievances of the province. The election of the

commissioners took place immediately; but as the boyars revived their

old pretensions, whilst the government strenuously adhered to its system

of political unity, it was not possible to come to an understanding

respecting the ameliorations to be introduced into the administrative

regimen. The elections, after being frequently annulled and recommenced,

produced no result, and the last commission named was finally dissolved

without having been able to repair to St. Petersburg.

All these long altercations necessarily produced asperity in the

relations of Bessarabia with the superior administration, and at last

the imperial government, weary of these discussions, was ready to take

any measure to reduce the Moldavians to the most absolute political and

administrative nullity, even to the prejudice of the national

prosperity. To this end it was determined to cut off the last means of

influence which serfdom afforded to the boyars, by issuing an ukase, by

virtue of which all serfs were declared free, with the right of residing

where they pleased. The consequences of this abrupt emancipation were,

of course, disastrous to agriculture. Urged by intrigues, or by the

chimerical hope of bettering their physical condition, the serfs

abandoned their old abodes to settle elsewhere, and chiefly on the lands

recently acquired by the Russians. In this way many villages were left

deserted, the lands remained untilled, and the landowners found

themselves suddenly deprived of the hands necessary for their work.

Putting aside all political considerations, this measure of the

government was unquestionably premature. Nothing in the moral or

physical condition of the Bessarabians could as yet justify so radical a

destruction of all that belonged to the old system. The state of the

serfs was in fact very tolerable, and quite in harmony with the

civilisation of the country. The peasants were no further bound to the

soil, than inasmuch as a certain portion of it was placed at their

disposal. Their duties to their lords were defined by rule, and

consisted generally of eighteen days' labour in the year, some haulages,

and the tithes of their produce. The landowners, no doubt, occasionally

abused their power in a cruel manner; but these abuses were not without

remedy. A resolute and conscientious administration might easily have

put an end to them. Under the present system, the peasants possessing no

lands appeared to us in reality much more enslaved, and in a far less

satisfactory physical condition. Formerly, the interests of the lords

and the serfs were closely united, the prosperity of either necessarily

inferred that of the others; but now that the emancipated serfs,

possessing no means of subsistence of their own, cultivate the land only

in virtue of a contract, the landowners think only how to get as much

profit out of them as possible, during the time the engagement lasts,

and care nothing what becomes of them afterwards. The peasants, it is

true, have a right of appealing to the tribunals; but in consequence of

the venality of the latter, their complaints generally serve only to put

them to expense, and make their condition worse. A rich boyar said very

naively to me on this subject, "How do you suppose the husbandman can

obtain justice, when for every egg he gives we give a silver ruble?"

Again, the frequent changes of abode are very pernicious, from the loss

of time and the expense they occasion. Other dwellings must be built,

new habits must be contracted; the peasant is soon reduced to

destitution, and finds himself obliged to accept whatever terms are

offered him. In this way the dependence of the rural population is but

the more grievous for being limited, and their situation towards the

landlords is without security for the present, or guarantee for the

future. Nor have their duty labours undergone any modification, and the

abuses are exactly the same as under the old regime. Without exceeding

the limits of the regulations, a peasant pays his master tithes of all

agricultural produce, besides 1^r.20 for every head of large cattle,

0.16 for each sheep, and one hive of honey out of every fifty he

possesses. He takes upon himself, moreover, all repairs of buildings,

enclosures, &c., supplies night watchers, executes annually at least

three haulages over thirty-eight miles of ground, and seldom works less

than twenty-eight or thirty days for his landlord, often as much as

fifty or even sixty. In point of physical welfare, therefore, the

results of emancipation are quite illusory, and the more so as the

peasants enjoy no political rights, and support all the burdens and

_corvees_. In fine, the new system has as yet produced only loss,

trouble, and embarrassment, both to large and small fortunes. As to

hopes for the future, none can be seriously conceived, except for very

distant times. It will require many years even for a wise and

enlightened administration to rectify the state of a country whose

population consists of a scanty body of landowners, and a mass of

peasants without fixed domicile, possessing no other resources than the

chance of a limited engagement, and the labour of their hands.

We will not go into details of all the measures adopted by the Russian

government with reference to the agricultural and commercial affairs of

Bessarabia: they were as contradictory and as irrational as those we

have noticed in our account of the Crimea. The immigrations of the

Bulgarians[86] and Germans,[87] it is true, were favoured, and they

were granted the most fertile lands of the Boudjiak; several villages of

Cossacks[88] and of Great Russians[89] were settled in the same regions;

and attempts were even made with some success to colonise a few nomade

tribes of gipsies.[90] But all these excellent creations, the first idea

of which belongs to the head of the state, were largely counterbalanced

by the mischievous measures of the local boards. Thus, for instance, in

consequence of the division among the great landlords of all the immense

meadows formerly possessed by the hospodars, and which they used to rent

out in pasture, the national business of rearing zigai sheep was

destroyed, and gave place to some ruinous attempts to introduce the

merino breed. Extreme injury was done at the same time to the breeding

of horses and horned cattle, a business which the government had already

seriously damaged by forcing the proprietors of such stock to become

Russian subjects or give up their employment, and by impeding by

countless vexatious formalities the entrance of foreign merchants into

the province, and their sojourn in it. In 1839, Bessarabia sold only

2365 horses, whereas formerly Austria alone drew from it from 12,000 to

15,000 every year for her cavalry.[91]

The following general table of the exports and imports of Bessarabia by

the Danube and by land is drawn up from official documents. It cannot,

however, indicate precisely the commercial situation of Bessarabia,

since a considerable portion of the goods declared in five places named

belongs only to the transit trade through the province, which, moreover,

receives a quantity of manufactured and other goods from Southern Russia

that are not mentioned at all in the table. Our figures would require a

certain reduction to make them accurately represent the true state of

the case.

BY THE DANUBE.--IMPORTS.

-----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------

| 1838. | 1839.

NAMES OF PLACES. +-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

| Goods. | Cash. | Goods. | Cash.

-----------------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

| rubles. | rubles. | rubles. | rubles.

Ismael | 253,697 | 1,632,996 | 238,996 | 820,035

Reny | 50,193 | 797,497 | 85,429 | 553,174

+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

Total | 303,890 | 2,430,493 | 324,425 | 1,373,209

EXPORTS.

Ismael | 3,913,494 | 9,915 | 2,793,244 |

Reny | 718,040 | 50,773 | 609,541 | 77,745

+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

Total | 4,631,534 | 60,688 | 3,402,785 | 77,745

BY LAND.--IMPORTS.

Novo Selitza, Austrian | | | |

frontier | 221,324 | 1,939,604 | 245,198 | 3,048,064

Skouleni on the Pruth | 222,507 | 497,209 | 195,088 | 721,015

Leovo on the Pruth | 52,336 | 29,932 | 55,664 | 26,291

+-----------+-----------+-----------+----------

Total | 496,167 | 2,466,745 | 495,950 | 3,795,370

EXPORTS.

Novo Selitza | 1,978,172 | 163,868 | 3,277,660 | 81,868

Skouleni | 829,692 | 525,638 | 737,462 | 540,618

Leovo | 96,832 | 60,537 | 59,906 | 36,709

+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

Total | 2,904,696 | 750,043 | 4,075,028 | 659,195

-----------------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

Total of the customs and other duties realised in 1838, in the five

localities above-named, 360,332 rubles, and in 1839, 319,134 rubles.

From some scattered details we have already given, the reader may

conjecture that the population of Bessarabia is exceedingly mixed. The

Boudjiak numbers among its inhabitants, Great Russians, Cossacks,

Germans, Bulgarians, Swiss vine-dressers, gipsies, and Greek and

Armenian merchants. The northern part of the province, on the contrary,

is occupied almost exclusively by the Moldavian race, whose villages

extend even along the Dniestr to the vicinity of Ackerman. Jews abound

in the northern part; there are very few in the towns of the Boudjiak;

leaving them out of the account the Bessarabian population may be

divided into four great classes: the nobles, the free peasants who

possess lands, the newly emancipated peasants, and the gipsies. The

nobles consist of the ancient Moldavian aristocracy, the public

functionaries, retired officers, and a great number of Russians, who

have become landowners in the province. To this class we must join the

Mazils, who are descendants of the ancient boyars, but whom war and the

numerous revolutions that have desolated the land have reduced to

penury. They form at present an intermediate class between the new

nobles and the peasantry, and differ from the aristocracy only in not

taking part in the elections of the judges and marshals of the nobles.

The free peasants are those, who, having been emancipated in times more

or less remote, possess lands, and depend neither on the great landlords

nor on the crown, though subject to ordinary imposts and _corvees_. The

newly liberated peasants consist of those who are settled, by virtue of

a contract or agreement, on lands belonging to individuals or to the

crown; they form the majority of the population. The Bohemians are still

subjected to the laws of slavery. Some of them, to the number of 900

families, belong to the crown, and the rest to Moldavian landowners, who

usually employ them as servants, workmen, and musicians.

In Bessarabia, as throughout Russia and the principalities of the

Danube, the new generation of nobles have completely renounced the

habits of former days. They have of course adopted the straight coat,

trousers, cravat, and all the rest of our Western costume; there is

nothing striking in their outward appearance. The old boyars alone

adhere to their ancestral customs; a broad divan, pipes, coffee, dolces,

and the kieff after dinner, are indispensable for them; and to some of

them shampooing is a delicious necessity. I know a certain nobleman who

cannot fall asleep without having his feet rubbed by his Bohemian. But

what above all strikes and delights every stranger, especially a

Frenchman, is the eager and cordial hospitality and kindness he

encounters in every Moldavian house. One is sure of meeting everywhere

with men who sympathise heartily with every thing great and useful to

mankind which our civilisation and our efforts have produced in these

latter times. It is only to be regretted that these brilliant qualities

are often tarnished by the corruption which administrative venality and

rapacity, supervening upon long military occupations, have insensibly

diffused through all classes of the population.

The Bessarabian of the lower class is by nature a husbandman; he very

rarely plies a trade. To know his real worth he must be seen in the

interior of the country, far from the towns. The Moldavian peasant is

brave, gay, and hospitable; he delights to welcome the stranger, and

generally would be ashamed to receive the slightest present from him.

The Russians accuse him of excessive sloth, but the charge appears

unfounded. The Moldavian peasant seldom, indeed, thinks of accumulating

money, but he always works with zeal until he has attained the position

he had aspired to, the amount of comfort he had set his heart on; and,

in reality, it is not until after the fulfilment of his desires that he

becomes lazy, and that his efforts are generally limited to procuring

his family the few sacks of maize necessary for its subsistence. But

increase his wants, make him understand that there are other enjoyments

than those in which he indulges so cheaply, and you will infallibly see

him shake off his natural apathy, and rise to the level of the new ideas

he has adopted.

The most charming thing in the Moldavian villages is the extreme

cleanliness of the houses, which are generally surrounded by gardens and

thriving orchards. Enter the forest dwelling, and you will almost always

find a small room perfectly clean, furnished with a bed, and broad

wooden divans covered with thick woollen stuffs. Bright parti-coloured

carpets, piles of cushions, with open work embroideries, long red and

blue napkins, often interwoven with gold and silver thread, are

essential requisites in every household, and form a principal portion of

the dowery of young women.

In general, the women take little part in field labours, but they are

exceedingly industrious housewives. They are all clever weavers, and

display great art and taste in making carpets, articles of dress, and

linen. The great object of emulation among the women of every village,

is to have the neatest and most comfortable house, and the best supplied

with linen and household utensils.

Such was Bessarabia, when I visited it in detail, on my return from my

long journeys in the steppes of the Caspian. I visited it a second time

when about to quit Russia for the principalities of the Danube; and when

I crossed the Pruth, I could not help reiterating my earnest prayers

that the inexhaustible resources of this province may at last be duly

appreciated, and that effectual measures may be taken to put an end to

that languor and depression in which it has been sunk for so many years.

FOOTNOTES:

[85] Bessarabia now includes nine districts, the capitals of which,

beginning from the south, are Ismael, Ackerman, Kahoul, Bender,

Kichinev, Orgeiev, Beltz, Soroka, and Khotin. Kichinev is the capital of

the government; it was formerly a poor borough on the Bouik, a little

river that falls into the Dniestr; the preference was given it on

account of its central position. Its population is now 42,636, of whom

from 15,000 to 18,000 are Jews. It is to the administration of

Lieutenant-general Foederof that the town owes the numerous

embellishments, and the principal public edifices it presents to the

traveller's view.

[86] The Bulgarian colonies, the most prosperous of all those that have

been established in the Boudjiak, numbered in 1840, 10,153 families,

comprising 32,916 males, and 29,314 females. The surface of their lands

has been estimated at 585,463 hectares, of which 527,590 are fit for

tillage and hay crops, and 57,873 are waste. The Bulgarian colonists pay

the crown 50 rubles per family. The corn harvest amounted, in 1839, to

211,337 tchetverts. They have contrived to preserve among them the breed

of zigai sheep, the long strong wool of which is in demand in the East,

and formed, previously to the Russian occupation, the chief wealth of

the Bessarabians: they now possess about 343,479.

[87] The German colonies include nineteen villages and 1736 families.

They are in a very backward condition.

[88] After the destruction of the celebrated Setcha of Dniepr, the

Zaporogue Cossacks withdrew in great numbers beyond the Danube, and

settled with the permission of the Turks on that secondary branch of the

Balkan which runs between Isaktchy and Toultcha. During the wars of 1828

and 1829, the Russian government contrived to gain the allegiance of

many of the descendants of these Zaporogues who served it as spies.

Their number was so considerable that after the campaign Russia formed

them into military colonies in the Boudjiak. These colonies increased

greatly in consequence of the asylum they afforded to all the refugees

and vagabonds of Russia, and presented, in 1840, an effective of two

regiments of cavalry of 600 men each, with a total population of 3000

families, having eight villages and 50,000 hectares of land.

[89] We have no exact data respecting these villages, the situation of

which is wretched enough. Their population consists entirely of

fugitives, to whom the government had for many years granted an asylum

in Bessarabia to the detriment of the neighbouring government.

[90] The gipsies have three villages containing 900 families. The

establishment of these colonies was not effected without difficulty, and

it required all the severity of a military administration to make them

sow their grounds.

[91] Since our departure, the Russian government seems disposed to

interest itself on behalf of Bessarabia. We are informed that it is at

present turning its attention to the navigation of the Dniestr, a matter

of the more importance since the Dniestr washes Bessarabia throughout

its whole length, and there is not yet in that province any means of

communication practicable at all seasons.

NOTE.

To complete our author's account of Sevastopol, we subjoin an abstract

of a paper by Mr. Shears, C.E., which was read at the meeting of the

Institution of Civil Engineers, January 12, 1847.

"Sevastopol is very peculiarly situated, amidst rocky

ground, rising so abruptly from the shore, that there was

not space for the buildings necessary for a dockyard. On

account of the depth of water close in shore, and other

natural advantages, the emperor determined to make it the

site of an extensive establishment, and as there is not any

rise of tide in the Black Sea, and the construction of

cofferdams would have been very expensive and difficult in

such a rocky position, it was decided to build three locks,

each having a rise of ten feet, and at this level of thirty

feet above the sea to place a main dock with lateral docks,

into which vessels of war could be introduced, and the gates

being closed, the water could be discharged by subterranean

conducts to the sea, and the vessel, being left dry, could

be examined and repaired, even beneath the keel. A stream

was conducted from a distance of twelve miles to supply the

locks, and to keep the docks full; this, however, has been

found insufficient, and a pumping-engine has since been

erected by Messrs. Maudsley and Field, for assisting.

"The original intention was to have made the gates for the

docks of timber, but on account of the ravages of a worm,

which it appears does not, as in the case of the Teredo

navalis or the Tenebranes, confine itself to the salt water,

it was resolved to make them with cast iron frames covered

with wrought iron plates.

"There are nine pairs of gates, whose openings vary from 64

feet in width and 34 feet 4 inches in height for ships of

120 guns, to 46 feet 7 inches in width, and 21 feet in

height, for frigates.

"The manipulation of such masses of metal as composed these

gates demanded peculiar machines; accordingly, Messrs.

Rennie fitted up a building expressly, with machines

constructed by Mr. Whitworth, by which all the bearing

surfaces could be planed, and the holes bored in the ribs,

and all the other parts, whether their surfaces were curved

or plane. The planing was effected by tools which travelled

over the surface, backward and forward, cutting each way;

the piece of metal being either held in blocks, if the

surface was plane, or turned on centres, if the surface was

curved. The drilling was performed by machines, so fixed,

that the pieces could be brought beneath or against the

drills, in the required direction, and guided so as to

insure perfect uniformity and accordance between them.

"Travelling cranes were so arranged, as to take the largest

pieces from the wharf, and place them in the various

machines, by the agency of a very few men, notwithstanding

their formidable dimensions; the heelposts in some cases

being upwards of 34 feet long. Each endless screw, for

giving progressive motion to the cutting tools, was 45 feet

long. Some idea may be formed of the manual labour avoided

by the machines, when it is stated, that the surface planed

or turned in the nine pairs of gates equals 717,464 square

inches; and in some cases a thickness of three-quarters of

an inch was cut off. The surface in the drilled bolt holes

equals 120,000 square inches."

The paper gave all the details of the construction of the

gates, and the machinery for making them; and was

illustrated by a series of detailed drawings.

THE END.

C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND.

+-----------------------------------------------------+

| |

| Typographical errors corrected in the text: |

| |

| Page v Ickaterinoslav changed to Iekaterinoslav |

| Page v Debats changed to Debats |

| Page 6 accomodation changed to accommodation |

| Page 20 etsablished changed to established |

| Page 26 bord changed to board |

| Page 27 that changed to than |

| Page 55 DEBATS changed to DEBATS |

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| Page 71 satify changed to satisfy |

| Page 77 party changed to parti |

| Page 78 Alsacian changed to Alsatian |

| Page 84 Azor changed to Azov |

| Page 87 guerillero changed to guerrillero |

| Page 93 "Every thing is matter of surprise" |

| changed to "Every thing is a matter |

| of surprise" |

| Page 93 cassino changed to casino |

| Page 113 choses changed to chooses |

| Page 114 subsistance changed to subsistence |

| Page 117 bead changed to head |

| Page 120 acording changed to according |

| Page 141 Gengis changed to Genghis |

| Page 153 Gengis changed to Genghis |

| Page 157 Alsacean changed to Alsacian |

| Page 159 it changed to its |

| Page 173 stupified changed to stupefied |

| Paqe 174 vieing changed to vying |

| Page 176 rareties changed to rarities |

| Page 180 Tibetian changed to Tibetan |

| Page 185 Tondoutof changed to Tondoudof |

| Page 194 Samarcand changed to Samarkand |

| Page 196 hectrolitres changed to hectolitres |

| Page 207 semovar changed to samovar |

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| Page 217 wo-begone changed to woe-begone |

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| Page 269 Boudjak changed to Boudjiak |

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| Page 351 formalties changed to formalities |

| Page 363 cashmires changed to cashmeres |

| Page 364 Bagtchte changed to Bagtche |

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| Page 391 Ghenghis changed to Genghis |

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+-----------------------------------------------------+

Travels in the Steppes of the Caspian Sea, the Crimea, the Caucasus, &c. · 第 53 / 53 章