CHAPTER XXIV.

THE NUT LOG.

The Hounds—A Gumuki—The Eade—Trelawny—The Rev. J. Wolff—The

Nut Log—Balancing Goat—Sirrākee Grass—A Dividend—Ear-rings

of Jasmine—A Rat given to a Cow—The Mādār—Enamelled

Grasshoppers—The Shaddock—The Agra Gun—Corruption of

words—Variegated Locusts—Beautiful Flowers.

1833, _Feb. 1st._—The new hounds have just arrived; such little animals

by the side of Jan Peter (Trumpeter) and Racer! Out of eight couple there

is not a good dog; the gentlemen say three hundred rupees, _i.e._ £30, is

a long price for dogs not worth their food, and who would be better out

of than in the pack.

At the fair to-day, I purchased a gumuki, a sort of loose bag, the shape

of a carpenter’s square, large enough to admit the hand at one end, but

sewed up at the other. It is made of blue cloth, embroidered with figures

of the holy cow. A Hindoo will perform pooja seated on the ground, his

right hand passed into a bag of this sort. His hand holds, and he counts

most sedulously, a rosary of round beads (mālā), containing in number one

hundred and eight, exclusive of connecting beads, differently shaped: the

attention is abstractedly fixed on the deity, assisted by the rosary.

Sometimes it is composed of amber, sometimes of certain rough berries

sacred to the gods. Such rosaries, when used to promote abstraction,

are called jap-mālā. During the time, a cloth is bound over his mouth,

to prevent the entrance of insects; and he is supposed to be in holy

meditation.

_Feb. 22nd._—To-day is the Eed: it is customary for the Musulmāns to

put on very gay new clothes on this day, and to go to prayers at the

Jāmma Musjid, the large mosque on the banks of the Jumna. A camel is

often sacrificed on the Buckra Eed, on the idea that the animal will

be in readiness to carry the person who offers it over the bridge of

Sirraat, safe to heaven. The poorer classes will offer a goat (Buckra),

or a sheep, lambs, or kids. This festival is to commemorate Abraham’s

sacrifice of Isaac. The Musulmāns contend it was Ishmael not Isaac who

was the offering.

I have lost my companion, my horse Trelawny: he was so quiet, and

good-tempered, and good-looking; he was as pretty a boy as Hindoo or

Musulmān might look on in the Central Provinces. Poor Trelawny, Jumna-jee

rolls over my good steed! He died this morning of inflammation, caused by

some internal injury he received when we were plunging together in the

quicksands on the banks of the Ganges.

I am reading Captain Mundy’s “Sketches in India,” a much more amusing

journal than I can write. I have no tigers to kill, no hurdwar to visit;

nor have I even seen the taj. His journal is very spirited, very correct,

and very amusing; I am pleased to hear the praises bestowed upon it in

England.

Have you heard of the Rev. Joseph Wolff? He is a German Jew converted

to the faith of Christ: “Unto the Jews a stumbling-block, and unto the

Greeks foolishness.” He roams about the world in search of the lost

tribes of Israel, “preaching Christ, and him crucified,” in the churches,

and delivering lectures on the subject of the divinity of our Saviour,

and his own wanderings. When at Simla, he was with Lord William Bentinck,

and preached every Sunday in the presence of the Governor-general,

which he would not have been allowed to do had he not been an ordained

clergyman. He arrived here three days ago. In the evening he delivered

a lecture in the Fort, which was attended by all the inhabitants of

Allahabad. Curiosity is, I fear, stronger than religion; for I never

before saw the church so crowded.

My husband accompanied me to hear Mr. Wolff. He is a strange and most

curious-looking man; in stature short and thin; and his weak frame

appears very unfit to bear the trials and hardships to which he has been,

and will be, exposed in his travels. His face is very flat, deeply marked

with small-pox; his complexion that of dough, and his hair flaxen. His

grey eyes roll and start, and fix themselves, at times, most fearfully;

they have a cast in them, which renders their expression still wilder.

Being a German, and by birth a Jew, his pronunciation of English is very

remarkable; at times it is difficult to understand him: however, his

foreign accent only gives originality to his lectures, aided occasionally

by vehement gesticulation. His voice is deep and impressive; at times,

having given way to great and deep enthusiasm, and having arrested the

attention of his hearers, he sinks at once down into some common-place

remark, his voice becoming a most curious treble, the effect of which

is so startling, one can scarcely refrain from laughter. He understands

English very well; his language is excellent, but evidently borrowed more

from reading than from conversation. He makes use of words never used in

common _parlance_, but always well and forcibly applied. He carries you

along with him in his travels, presenting before you the different scenes

he has witnessed, and pointing out those customs and manners still in

use, which prove the truth of Scripture. His descriptions at times are

very forcible, and his account of the lives of St. Augustine and other

holy men very interesting.

In the midst of his discourse he said, “It is the custom in Jerusalem,

every Friday, for the Jews, the veils over their heads, in mourning and

lamentation, to proceed to the ruins of the walls of Jerusalem: for this

they pay tribute to the Turks. I will give you an idea of the hymn they

sing—the whole congregation:—

“‘The Mighty shall build his Temple speedily:

Lord, build, Lord, build, build thy Temple speedily:

In haste, in haste, even in our days,

Build thy Temple speedily.

He is beloved, he is great, he is glorious, he is sweet!

Lord, build, build thy Temple speedily:

In haste, in haste, even in our days,

Lord, build thy Temple speedily!’”

Having repeated this hymn in English, Mr. Wolff sang it in Hebrew, as the

Jews sing it before the wall of the Temple. His voice is fine, and the

words are melodious; I give them as written by himself.

HEBREW HYMN.

[Illustration: Hebrew Hymn.]

Transcriber’s Note: The music contains two errors, both corrected in the

audio file. Third system, bass clef, second bar, first note: Arpeggio is

missing. Fourth system, bass clef, first bar, first chord: Note written

as F is meant to be played as G.

“Ader ho, ader ho, yebne beitho bekarob,

Bimbeira, bimbeira, beyameenoo bekarob.

Eil bene, Eil benei, benei beitkha bekarob

Bimbeira, bimbeira, beyameenoo bekarob

Eil bene, Eil bene, benei beitkha bekarob.

Barokh hoo, gadol hoo, yebne beitho bekarob

Bimbeira, bimbeira, beyamenoo bekarob.

Eil bene, Eil benei, benei beitkha bekarob

Bimbeira, bimbeira, beyameenoo bekarob.

Eil bene, Eil bene, benei beitkha bekarob.”

I could not but feel for the man when I thought of the glory of his

nation that had passed away, the Temple that had been destroyed, and the

Jews wanderers on the face of the earth. Their supplication to the Lord

is affecting. “Even in our days build thy Temple speedily.” Mr. Wolff

repeated the hymn of the Carāites, and then chanted it in Hebrew: it is

beautiful and touching. The Rabbi, Simon Ben Nuhai, stood forth from the

congregation, and chanted these words:—

The Rabbi—

“On account of our Palace which is destroyed.”

And the people answer—

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of our Temple which is laid waste.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of Jerusalem which is desolate.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of our Princes who have sinned.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

The Rabbi—

“On account of our Kings who have committed iniquity.”

And the people answer—

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of our High Priests who have done wickedly.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of our Prophets who have seen false visions.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

“On account of our precious stones which are burned.”

“We sit alone and weep!”

Rabbi—

“Let shine thy government upon Zion.”

People—

“And build thou the walls of Jerusalem.”

Rabbi—

“Have mercy upon Zion.”

People—

“A branch shall spring forth at Jerusalem!”

A lady brought Mr. Wolff to call upon me, he being anxious to see my

collection of Hindoo idols. On his arrival, he introduced himself in

these words:—“I am of the tribe of Benjamin, and Benjamin was a ravening

wolf,—and so, they call me Wolff!”

On Sunday he preached, or rather gave us a homily, which was sufficiently

startling for even us Indians. What you sober people in England would

think of it, I know not. We dined at Mr. F⸺’s house, and met Mr. Wolff.

After dinner, he was very anxious all the ladies should write their names

in his Bible, which is seldom out of his hands, and was in such a state

I did not like to touch it. Should he visit Hampshire, he will give

lectures: they are worth hearing. Perhaps he will repeat the story of

the mother of St. Augustine. All that I recollect of it is, the mother,

weeping bitterly, spoke to some holy man respecting her son, whose

conduct gave her pain. He answered, “The child of a mother of so many

tears cannot be lost.” This child was afterwards St. Augustine. It is

very beautiful, “The child of a mother of so many tears cannot be lost!”

I gave Mr. Wolff two Hindoo idols, with which he was much pleased: he

interests himself in the Muhammadan religion, but is entirely ignorant

respecting the worship of the Hindoos.

THE NUT LOG.

_19th._—Yesterday, some wandering gypsies (Nut Log) came to the door;

they were a family of tumblers. Nut is the name of a tribe who are

generally jugglers, rope-dancers, &c. There was one girl amongst

them whose figure was most beautiful, and her attitudes more classic

and elegant than any I have ever beheld; Madame Sacci would hide her

diminished head before the supple and graceful attitudes of this Indian

girl.

A man placed a solid piece of wood, of the shape of an hour-glass, and

about eighteen inches in height, on his head; the girl ran up his back,

and, standing on one foot on the top of the wood, maintained her balance

in the most beautiful attitude, whilst the man ran round and round in a

small circle; she then sprang off his head to the ground. After this she

again ran up his back, and kneeling on the hour-glass-like wood on his

head, allowed him to run in the circle; then she balanced herself on the

small of her back, her hands and feet in the air! After that, she stood

on her head, her feet straight in the air, the man performing the circle

all the time! The drapery worn by the natives falls in the most beautiful

folds, and the girl was a fit subject for a statuary: I was delighted.

They placed a brass vessel, with dust in it, behind her back on the

ground, whilst she stood erect; she bent backwards, until her forehead

touched the dust in the vessel, and took up between her eyelids two bits

of iron, that looked like bodkins; the brass pan in which they were

laid was only about two inches high from the ground! She threw herself

into wonderful attitudes with a sword in her hand. A set of drawings,

illustrating all the graceful positions which she assumed would be very

interesting; I had never seen any thing of the kind before, and thought

of Wilhelm Meister. The Nut Log consisted of five women, one little

child, and one man, who performed all these extraordinary feats; another

man beat a tōm-tōm to keep time for them, and accompanied it with his

voice; the poor little child performed wonderfully well. She could not

have been more than six years old; the other girl was, I should suppose,

about eighteen years of age.

Another exhibition worth seeing is an Hindostanī juggler, with his goat,

two monkeys, and three bits of wood, like the wood used in England to

play the devil and two sticks. The first bit of wood is placed on the

ground, the goat ascends it, and balances herself on the top; the man by

degrees places another bit of wood on the upper edge of the former; the

goat ascends, and retains her balance; the third piece, in like manner,

is placed on the top of the former two pieces; the goat ascends from the

two former, a monkey is placed on her back, and she still preserves the

balance. I have seen this curious performance many times. The man keeps

time with a sort of musical instrument, which he holds in his right hand,

and sings a wild song to aid the goat; without the song and the measured

time, they say the goat could not perform the balance.

When I first came up the country, nothing excited my admiration more

than the sirrākee[104] grass in full flower, bending to the wind, and

recovering its position so elegantly. This magnificent grass is often

sixteen feet high, on which the bloom gracefully waves, like bending

feathers.

_May 1st._—“Notice was given in the supreme Court, that Messrs. Gould and

Campbell would pay a dividend, at the rate of nine gundahs, one cowrie,

one cawg, and eighteen teel, in every sicca rupee, on and after the first

of June.”

A curious dividend,—not quite a farthing in the rupee[105]!

_10th._—O! Western shore! on which I have passed so many happy days;

what would I not give for your breezes, to carry away this vile Indian

languor, and rebrace my nerves? In front of the thermantidote, and under

a pankhā, still there appears to be no air to breathe! This easterly

wind is killing; I have in general liked the hot winds, and have found

my health good during the time; but this heavy, unnatural atmosphere

overpowers me. I see a man crossing the parched and dusty compound, with

a lota (brass bowl) and a phleme in his hand, to bleed eleven gynees

(dwarf cows), and two horses,—all ill of infectious fever! I must return

to my book and my sofa, and dream away the hours.

Shall I ever see again those beautiful scenes which _I now see_? Shall

I ascend again that Mont Anvert, and look down upon the Mer-de-glace?

Twenty mosquitoes, of which I have just caught one, say, No; but I say,

Yes; and I hope once more to behold the lovely vistas in the New Forest,

and once again to muse by the sad sea waves on the Western shore.

_17th._—My ayha was decorated last night with ear-rings, made of freshly

gathered jasmine flowers, strung double on a wire, and hanging down to

her shoulders; the scent was so powerful, I could not endure it in the

room. Under her chādar they had a good effect; she wore the bela, the

double Arabian jasmine (jasminum sambac pleno; jasminum, from the Arabian

ysmyn).

The flowers are most overpoweringly sweet, pure white, and double.

Native women are extremely fond of decorating themselves with necklaces,

ear-rings, and bracelets, formed of freshly gathered flowers.

The champa is a flowering tree (michelia champaca), sweet-scented

michelia. From the bud of the champa flower is taken the pattern of the

champa-kullee necklaces the Indian women wear; kullee, a bud.

_21st._—We have had heavy storms, with hailstones of most surprising

magnitude; I wish the wind would change; the new moon has “the old moon

in her arms,” and if the wind change not now, we shall still have to

endure this dreadful weather. The garden is a cake of parched white

earth, all split and cracked.

What plagues these servants are! This morning, one of the cows being very

ill, I ordered a mixture for her; at sunset it had not been given to her,

because, to use the man’s own words, “he wished to send a man into the

district, to dig up a _certain sort of rat_, which rat, having been mixed

up with hot spices, he would give to the cow, and she would be well!”

Very provoking! the animal will die on account of not having had a

proper remedy administered in time. One has to fight against the climate

and the servants until one is weary of life.

_23rd._—Such a disaster in the quail-house! Through the negligence, or

rather stupidity, of the khānsāmān, 160 fat quail have been killed.

_June 1st._—The Muharram is over; I am glad of it, it unsettles all the

servants so much, and nothing is ever well done whilst they are thinking

of the Taziya.

_4th._—Last night we drove to the churchyard, to visit the tomb of one of

the most charming girls I ever met with, who had departed in her youth

and beauty’s prime: it was a melancholy visit.

One of the Fitzclarences died at Allahabad, and was buried here, without

any name or inscription on the tomb; within the last six months an

inscription has been put upon it, by order of Lord William Bentinck.

In the churchyard was a great number of plants of the mādār or ark,

(asclepias gigantea,) gigantic swallow-wort. Upon them we found the

most beautifully spotted creatures, like enamelled grasshoppers; they

appear partial to this plant, the ark; when alive, their spots are most

beautiful, in dying, all their brilliancy vanishes. I gathered a quantity

of the fine down from the pods of the mādār, and gave it to a gentleman

fond of experiments, who says he will weave it as a shawl is woven, and

see if it will answer.

_19th._—The air is so oppressive, it appears full of dust, so white, so

hot! the atmosphere is thick and dull,—no rain! This day last year a fine

storm refreshed the earth. The leaves are all falling off the trees,

dried up by the sun; numerous trees are dead, burnt up; not a blade of

grass! every thing so dusty! I wish the rains would come; this easterly

wind, with a thermometer at 91° at noon, is terrible! The pummelo-tree

presents a curious appearance; the whole of the leaves are parched, and

have fallen from the tree, leaving sixty fine green pummeloes hanging on

the naked branches!

The pummelo, called by the natives batavi-nemoo, is the citrus decumana,

_orange pampelmouse_, or shaddock; it was brought from the West Indies

by Capt. Shaddock, from whom it derives its name; the fruit grows to the

size of a child’s head, and is very delicious; it is a native of China

and Japan.

_25th._—Any thing like the severity of these hot winds we have never

experienced; the thermometer to-day 93°! Our khānsāmān, Suddu Khān, has

had a stroke of the sun; he went out about two miles and a half, to buy

grapes, which at this season are very fine and excellent; returning, he

fell down by the churchyard, and was conveyed home: it shows how the

natives feel the severity of the weather. Grapes, mangoes, mango-fool,

and iced-water are our luxuries. The fields of sugar-cane are all burnt

up, the cotton-plants dying for want of rain, and in the mango topes

(plantations) half the trees are destroyed.

A swarm of locusts have passed over the cantonments; the natives say they

foretel rain; would it were come! The people are dying daily, and the

Europeans also at Dinapore are carried off three and four a day.

THE GREAT GUN AT AGRA.

“The utmost offer that has yet been made for the metal of the great gun

is sixteen rupees per maund; it is proposed to put it up now for sale by

auction, at the Agra-Kotwallee, in the course of next month; the upset

price of the lots to be fourteen ānās per seer.

“The destruction of the Agra gun, our readers are aware, has, for some

time past, been entrusted to the executive engineer. As stated in the

last _Meerut Observer_, an attempt was made first to saw, and afterwards

it was intended to break it to pieces. In the mean time, it is lying,

like Robinson Crusoe’s boat, perfectly impracticable under the fort.

Though there is a tradition in the city of its weight being 1600 maunds,

it has not been found, on actual measurement, to contain more than 845

mds. 9s., which, at the rate of two lbs. to the seer, would be equal to

30 tons, 3 cwt. 2 qrs. 18 lbs. The analysis of the filings made by the

deputy Assay Master in Calcutta was, we understand, as follows:—

Copper. Tin.

1 29·7 7·3

2 92·2 7·8

3 88·3 11·7

----- ----

Mean 91·06 8·94

“The gun, from its size, is naturally regarded by the native population

as one of the lions of our city. Of the Hindoos, too, many are accustomed

to address their adorations to it, as they do, indeed, to all the arms

of war, as the _roop_ of Devee, the Indian Hecate. Beyond this, Hindoo

tradition has not invested the gun with any character of mythological

sanctity. The antiquaries of our city, indeed, say that it was brought

here by the Emperor Acbar, perhaps from the fortress of Chittore. We

have, however, ourselves been unable to find any mention of it in

_tawareek_ of that reign, or of any subsequent period. Among its other

just claims to be saved from the hands of the _Thatheras_, we must not

forget the fact of its having once fired a shot from Agra to Futtehpoor

Sicri, a distance of twenty-four miles. A stone ball now marks the spot

where it fell to the student in artillery practice, putting him entirely

out of conceit of the vaunted power of Queen Elizabeth’s pocket pistol,

which we believe can scarcely carry one-third of that distance. The

fellow of the Agra gun is stated to be still embedded in the sands of the

Jumna.

“Its destruction seems as unpopular with the natives as it is with the

European community. Its doom, however, being, we believe, sealed, we are

gratified to think that the proceeds of its sale are to be devoted to the

erection of a permanent bridge of boats over the Jumna at this city, the

estimate for which, the supposed value of the gun, with an advance of one

or two years’ ferry tolls, is expected to meet. The future surplus funds

derived from the bridge will probably, we hear, be expended in forming a

new branch road from Raj-ghaut to Mynpoory, to unite with the grand trunk

now making between Allahabad and Delhi, under Captain Drummond. We shall,

however, postpone till another opportunity our remarks on this and other

plans to improve the means of communication in this quarter.”—_Mofussil

Achbar_.

“At five o’clock on Wednesday morning, the Great Gun at this place was

burst, other means of breaking it up having proved unsuccessful. The

gun was buried about twenty feet deep in the ground, and 1000 lbs.

of gunpowder was employed for the explosion. The report was scarcely

heard, but the ground was considerably agitated, and a large quantity

of the earth was thrown on all sides. As far as we can learn, the chief

engineer has at length been completely successful. A large portion of

the European community and multitudes of natives were present to witness

the novel spectacle. The inhabitants of the city were so alarmed, that a

considerable portion abandoned their houses, and that part of the town in

the vicinity of the Fort was completely deserted.”—_Mofussil Achbar, June

29._

_July 18th._—Last night, as I was writing a long description of the

tēz-pāt, the leaf of the cinnamon-tree, which humbly pickles beef,

leaving the honour of crowning heroes to the _laurus nobilis_, the

servants set up a hue and cry that one of our sā’īses had been bitten

by a snake. I gave the man a tea-spoonful of eau-de-luce, which the

khānsāmān calls “Blue-dee-roo,” mixed with a little water. They had

confined the snake in a kedgeree-pot, out of which he jumped into the

midst of the servants; how they ran! The sā’īs is not the worse for the

fright, the snake not being a poisonous one; but he says the mem sāhiba

has burnt up his interior and blistered his mouth with the medicine.

I hope you admire the corruption of eau-de-luce—blue-dee-roo! Another

beautiful corruption of the wine-coolers is, soup-tureen for sauterne!

Here is a list of absurdities:—

Harrico, harry cook.

Parsley, peter selly.

Mignionette, major mint.

Bubble-and-squeak, dublin cook.

Decree, diggery.

Christmas, kiss miss.

Butcher, voucher.

Prisoner, bridgeman.

Champagne, simkin.

Trumpeter, jan peter.

Brigade major, bridget.

Knole cole, old kooby.

An officer in the 16th Lancers told me he was amused the other day by his

servant designating the trumpeter a “poh poh walla.”

The gardener has just brought in a handful of the most beautiful _scarlet

velvet_ coloured insects, about the size of two large peas, but flattish,

and commonly found on reddish sandy soil, near grass; these insects are

used as one of those medicines which native doctors consider efficacious

in snake bites: they call them beerbotie; the scientific name is _mutella

occidentalis_.

The carpenter, in cutting down the hedge of the garden, found in the

babūl and neem-trees such beautiful creatures; they appear to be locusts;

the variety and brilliancy of their colours are wonderful. The upper

wings are green, lined out with yellow, the under wings scarlet, the body

green, yellow, and black: they are most beautifully marked. I have had

some prepared with arsenical soap.

_Aug. 4th._—I have just received a present of the first number of

Colonel Luard’s most beautiful views in India; how true they are! his

snake-catchers are the very people themselves. Apropos, we caught a young

cobra yesterday in my dressing-room; the natives said, “Do not kill it;

it is forbidden to kill the snake with the holy mark on the back of its

head,”—a mark like a horse-shoe. However, as it was the most venomous

sort of snake, I put it quietly into my “Bottle of Horrors.” They say

snakes come in pairs; we have searched the room and cannot find its

companion. It is not pleasant to have so venomous a snake twisting on the

Venetian blinds of one’s dressing-room.

_8th._—Yesterday, at dinner, our friends were praising the fatted quail,

and remarking how well we had preserved them. This morning all the

remainder are dead, about two hundred; why or wherefore I know not—it is

provoking.

We had the most beautiful bouquet on the table last night! an enormous

bowl full of flowers, in such luxuriant beauty! some few of which you may

find in hot-houses and green-houses at home. With what pleasure I looked

at them! and how much amusement taking off the impressions, or practising

the _black art_, as we call it, will afford me!

Wanderings of a pilgrim in search of the picturesque, Volume 1 (of 2) · 第 24 / 38 章