Transcriber’s Note: This book was published in two volumes, of which
this is the first. The second volume was released as Project Gutenberg
ebook #74043, available at https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/74043.
[Illustration: SRI GŬNÉSHŬ.]
WANDERINGS OF A PILGRIM,
IN SEARCH OF
The Picturesque,
DURING FOUR-AND-TWENTY YEARS IN THE EAST;
WITH
REVELATIONS OF LIFE
IN
THE ZENĀNA.
BY
فاني پارکس
ILLUSTRATED WITH SKETCHES FROM NATURE.
“Let the result be what it may, I have launched my boat.”
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
PELHAM RICHARDSON, 23, CORNHILL.
1850.
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
To the Memory
OF
MY BELOVED MOTHER,
AT WHOSE REQUEST IT WAS WRITTEN,
THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED:
AND IF ANY OF THE FRIENDS,
WHOSE KIND PARTIALITY HAS INDUCED THEM TO URGE
ITS PUBLICATION,
SHOULD THINK I HAVE DWELT TOO MUCH
ON MYSELF, ON MY OWN THOUGHTS, FEELINGS, AND ADVENTURES,
LET THEM REMEMBER THAT
THIS JOURNAL WAS WRITTEN FOR THE AFFECTIONATE EYE
Of Her
TO WHOM NOTHING COULD BE SO GRATIFYING
As THE SLIGHTEST INCIDENT CONNECTED WITH HER
BELOVED AND ABSENT CHILD,
فاني پارکس
श्री
INVOCATION.
Work-perfecting Gŭnéshŭ! Salamut.
Gănésh!—Gănésh!
Two-mothered! One-toothed!
Portly-paunched! Elephant-faced Gŭnéshŭ!
Salām!!
Moon-crowned! Triple-eyed!
Thou who in all affairs claimest precedence in adoration!
Calamity-averting Gănésh!
Salām!!
Thou who art invoked on the commencement of a journey,
the writing of a book,
Salām!!
Oh! Gănésh, “put not thine ears to sleep[1]!”
“Encourage me, and then behold my bravery;
Call me your own fox, then will you see me perform
the exploits of a lion[2]!”
“What fear need he have of the waves of the sea,
who has Noah for a pilot[3]?”
First-born of Mahādēo and Parvutī!
God of Prudence and Policy!
Patron of Literature!
Salām!!
May it be said,
“Ah! she writes like Gănésh!”
[Illustration: “The Camels were being branded for the Public Service and
the Spider came to be marked also.”
_In stone by Major Parlby_
فاني پارکس]
श्री
INTRODUCTION.
GĂNÉSH, THE PATRON OF LITERATURE.
“WHATEVER THE WANDERING TRAVELLER SAYS, HE DOES SO FROM HAVING SEEN THAT
OF WHICH HE SPEAKS[4].”
So many admirable works have appeared of late, illustrating scenes in
India, both with pen and pencil, that I offer these sketches in all
humility, pleading the force of example.
“THE CAMELS WERE BEING BRANDED WITH HOT IRONS FOR THE PUBLIC
SERVICE, AND THE SPIDER CAME TO BE MARKED ALSO[5].”
For four-and-twenty years have I roamed the world,—
“I NEITHER WENT TO MEKKA NOR MUDĪNA, BUT WAS A PILGRIM
NEVERTHELESS[6].”
The Frontispiece represents the idol Gănésh, the deified infant whom I
have invoked.
The sign _Sri_, at the top of the page, implores his triple eyes to look
with favour on the undertaking,—in the same manner that this sign, ♃, the
old heathen invocation to Jupiter, sought his blessing; and is equivalent
to the usual invocation of the poets to the Muses,—the Muhammadan authors
to the Prophet,—or the “Laus Deo,” with which merchants’ clerks formerly
began their books,—a practice not yet quite extinct.
“Sri” is written at the top of all Hindi writings; the meaning of the
word is “prosperity;” it is put as a title of respect before proper
names; frequently they write the same word twice over (“Sri, Sri,”)—or
they write “Sri Gănésh.” The Muhammadans, in a similar manner, dedicate
their writings to God by a character on the first page, which, as in
short-hand writing, implies a whole sentence.
The history of Gănésh is as follows:
“I SPEAK TO THOSE WHO HAVE DAUGHTERS, AND LET THOSE WHO HAVE
SONS LISTEN[7]!”
Parvutī, the mountain-born, the daughter of the Himalaya, the mountain
goddess, the mother of Gănésh the wisest of deities, on the birth of her
son, charmed with his beauty, and proud of the infant, in the presence
of the gods assembled in council, requested their congratulations on the
happy event.
Shivŭ the destroyer, although he paid the compliments necessary on the
occasion, ever avoided looking upon the child. The mother naturally
reproved him; Shivŭ, annoyed at the rebuke, gazed upon the infant, whose
beautiful head instantly withered away beneath a glance which none can
endure and live.
Indra, the abode of the gods, resounded with the lamentations of Parvutī,
who, struck with dismay, was inconsolable.
Brahma, having pity on her distress, bade her be comforted, and commanded
Shivŭ to bring the head of the first animal that he should find lying
with its head to the north.
This sleeping with the head to the north is unlucky, and ever to be
avoided, it being forbidden by the Shăstr, and the penalty thereof death.
Shivŭ went forth: the first animal he encountered in the above-mentioned
unlucky position being an elephant, he cut off its head, and, returning
to the assembly of the gods, fixed it upon the body of Gănésh. Seeing
this, the mother became frantic, nor could she be consoled until Brahma
thus addressed her: “Lament not the fate of your child;—with the head
of an elephant he shall possess all sagacity. In _pūja_ Gănésh shall be
invoked ere any other god be worshipped, hence shall he be greater than
all the gods. Ere a pious Hindū commence any sort of writing, the sign of
Gănésh shall he make at the top of the page, otherwise his words shall
be folly, and his traffic a matter of loss. He shall be the patron of
learning, his writing shall be beautiful.
“‘Behold! he writes like Gănésh!’ who shall say more?—with the simplicity
of the child shall be united the wisdom of the elephant, his power shall
be all-seeing—The patron of literature and work-perfecting.”
The daughter of the Himalaya listened to the words of Brahma, and the
heart of the mother found consolation in the honours bestowed upon her
child.
He is called two-mothered, uniting the elephant’s head to his natural
body, therefore having a second mother in the elephant.
In the wars of heaven he lost one tusk, hence his appellation one-toothed.
His quadruple hands and arms denote power. In one of his hands is the
_ānkus_, the instrument with which the elephant is guided; in another a
battle-axe. Being a child, and therefore fond of sweetmeats, a third hand
bears a small cup filled with _pera_, a sweetmeat common in all bazārs;
in the fourth he carries a short rosary, wherewith he counts his beads.
Around his neck is twined the _Cobra-di-capello_, the holy serpent, whose
hood is outspread upon his breast. This image is dignified by a frontal
eye, signifying the sun, encircled by a crescent, a sol lunar emblem and
mystical mark, hence “moon-crowned,” “triple-eyed.” His attendant, a rat,
holding a _pera_, sweetmeat, is placed at his side: on his head is a
crown, and around his limbs a yellow _dhotī_, a cloth of Benares tissue
edged with gold. His body is covered with ornaments of rich jewellery,
such as are worn by men in the East,—his single tusk is bound with
gold,—his hands and feet are dyed with _menhdī_, hinnā. On each of his
four arms are two _bāzūbands_, or armlets; and _chūrīs_, or bracelets, of
massive gold, adorn his wrists. A golden plate on the back of the hand
is fastened round the wrist by chains of gold, and from the upper part
similar but finer chains pass over the back of the hand, and unite with
rings on all the fingers and the thumb. This ornament is very peculiar;
both hands are thus adorned. The _chaunrīs_ above his head, emblems of
royalty, are used by the attendant Brahmāns to keep off the flies; they
wave them over the head of the idol during _pūja_.
Gănésh is seated on an altar, such as is used in the _mut’hs_, Hindū
temples, surrounded by divers idols, sacred shells, and instruments of
worship; small brass cups filled with oil, called _chirāghs_, are burned
as lamps before the shrine. The worshippers pour oil and the holy water
of the Ganges over the head of the god, which is thus bathed daily, and
offerings of boiled rice and flowers are made at the time of prayer. The
conch shell, which lies before him, is blown by the Brahmāns during the
hours of pūja at different times—it is considered very holy—the priest
holds it clasped in both hands, and blows into it from the top. The
sound can be heard afar off, especially when on the river at the time
of evening worship; it resounds from every side of the water, mingled
with the ringing of the priest’s bells and the sound of a sort of brass
castanet, which they strike whilst chanting forth their prayers.
The opening of these shells is on the left side; but they say a shell
is sometimes found with the opening on the right side, and its spiral
involutions reversed; it is then called _Dūkshina Vŭrtŭ_, and is valued
at from three to five hundred rupees. Vishnŭ is said to hold a shell of
this sort in his hand. Shells are placed with flowers around the idol,
the bull-mouthed is considered sacred, and often adorns the shrine.
Small brass bells are used in worship; some are decorated with the image
of Hŭnoomān, some with the sacred cow. They are rung during pūja, not
only, it is said, to amuse the god, but to keep off evil spirits.
The shape of the spoon with which the rice or oil is put upon the head
of the image is remarkably beautiful and antique. The top of the spoon
bears the image of Gănésh, crowned by the _Nāgā_, or holy serpent, with a
hundred heads, which are outspread, to screen him from the sun.
This idol is made of solid white marble, and weighs three hundred weight
and a quarter. It is painted and gilt, as in the Frontispiece. It was
brought down from Jeypūr to the sacred junction of the triple rivers at
Prāg, at which place it came into my possession.
Although a _pukka Hindū_, Gănésh has crossed the _Kālā Pānī_, or Black
Waters, as they call the ocean, and has accompanied me to England.
There he sits before me in all his Hindū state and peculiar style of
beauty—my inspiration—my penates.
O Gănésh, thou art a mighty lord! thy single tusk is beautiful, and
demands the tribute of praise from the Hājī of the East. Thou art the
chief of the human race; the destroyer of unclean spirits; the remover of
fevers, whether daily or tertian! The pilgrim sounds thy praise; let her
work be accomplished!
SALĀM! SALĀM!
فاني پارکس
CONTENTS TO VOL. I.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION.
Gănésh, the Patron of Literature—Parvutī—The Gods in
Council—Chaunrīs of the Yāk—The Conch Shell—Bells used in
Pūja—The Sacred Spoon—The Kālā-Pānī—The Salām vii
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.
1822, _April_.
Flying Visit to Switzerland—The good Ship ‘Marchioness of
Ely’—H. M. 16th Lancers—Porto Santo—Fellow-Passengers—Isle
of Palma—Divine Service—The Band—Quadrilles—The first
Shark—Bristol Water—Skip-jacks—Prickly Heat—Crossing the
Line—Amusements on Board—A Blue Shark—Sucking-Fish—Bonito—Santa
Trinidada and Martin Vas Rocks—The Albatross—Thoughts of
Home—A Calm—Shooting Season on the Ocean—Three Days of
Battue—Whale-Shooting—A deep Calm—Scarcity of Water—Anchored at
Carnicobar 1
CHAPTER II.
CARNICOBAR.
1822, _October_.
Appearance and Attire of the Islanders—Canoes—Visit to their
Village—Ornaments of the Natives—Departure from the Island—The
Andamans—Anchorage at Saugor—The Hoogly—Arrival in Calcutta 14
CHAPTER III.
LIFE IN INDIA.
1822, _November_.
Calcutta—First Impressions—Style of Indian
Houses—Furniture—Mats—Arabs—Departure of the
Marquis of Hastings—Fogs—Christmas-Day—Indian
Servants—The Sircar—Thieves—The Hot
Winds—Pankhās—Fire-flies—North-Westers—The
Foliage—Musquitoes—Elephantiasis—Insects—The Chŭrŭk
Pooja—Religious Mendicants 20
CHAPTER IV.
RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.
1823.
Baboo Ramohun Roy—Nāch girls—Children in India—Sickness in
the Fort—The Rains—Vessels for a Voyage on the Ganges—Indian
Fever—Arrival of Lord Amherst—Introduction of Steam-boats on
the Hoogly—Interest of Money in Calcutta—Robberies—Jamh o
Deen, Prince of Mysore—The Doorga Pooja—Images of Clay—The
Races—Chinese Screens—The Dog Crab 29
CHAPTER V.
RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.
1824.
Advantages and Disadvantages—Interest never
sleeps—Barrackpore—Cairipoor—The Fakīr—The
Menagerie—Hyena—Change of Residence to Chowringhee Road—Mouse
and Spotted Deer—Bengallee Goats—Lotteries—Trial by Rice—The
Toolsee—Epidemic Fever—Burmese War—Major Sale—Haileybury—The
Hooqŭ—Dr. Kitchener—Death of Lord Byron—Early
Marriages—Pleasures of the Cold Season—Indian Hospitality—Knack
of Fortune-making lost 37
CHAPTER VI.
RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.
1825.
A Day in March—The Furlough and Pension Funds—Bandicote
Rats—The Strand—The Cutting System—Harrow-on-the-Hill—Sickness
in Amman—The Golden Feet—Arrival of Lord
Combermere—Bhurtpore—La Pucelle—Marsh Fever—Change of Residence
to Middleton Row, Chowringhee—Fogs up to the Second Story—Burrā
Bazār—Seed Pearl 50
CHAPTER VII.
DEPARTURE FROM THE PRESIDENCY.
1826.
Fulbertus Sagittarius—Billiards—The Recall of Lord
Amherst—Zenāna of an opulent Hindoo—The Death
of Bishop Heber—Affliction in the Family of the
Governor-General—Appointment to Allahabad—Sale of ‘Scamp’—March
up the Country—Dāk Bungalows—Fakīrs en route—The Soane
River—Sassaram—Suttees at Nobutpoor—Benares—Pooja in a Hindoo
Temple—Brāhmani Bulls—The Minarets—Beetle Wings—Hindoo
House—Benares Hackeries—Dāk to Allahabad—Visit to Papamhow 58
CHAPTER VIII.
LIFE IN THE MUFASSIL.
1827, _January_.
First Visits in the East—Papamhow—Runjeet Singh’s
Illness—Death of Lord Hastings—Lord Amherst created Earl of
Arracan—Marriage of a Neem to a Peepul—The Bacäin—A Koord
Arab—Visit to Lucnow—His Majesty Nusseer-ood-Deen Hyder—Lord
Combermere—Kywan Jab—Presents not allowed to be accepted—Fights
of Wild Beasts—Quail—Departure of Lord Combermere—Skinner’s
Horse—Return to Prāg 70
CHAPTER IX.
RESIDENCE AT ALLAHABAD.
1828.
Sinking a Well—Hurriannah Cows—Delhi Goats—The Jumnapār—Doomba
Sheep—Buffalo Humps—Water-cresses—Marrowfat Peas—Carrots—The
Chatr—The Oleander—The Ice-pits—Cream Ice, how to
freeze—Burdwan Coal—Indian Fevers—Mr. Bayley, Viceroy—Fear of
the Invasion of the Russians and Persians—Intense Heat—Deaths
in the Farm-yard—Chota Jehannum—The Verandah at Noon—Mad
Pariah—Trelawny—Châteaux en Espagne—Height of the two
Rivers—Death of the Bishop of Calcutta—An Hummām—The first
Steamer at Prāg 77
CHAPTER X.
LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA.
1828, _October_.
Zenāna of the King of Oude—Regiment of Females—The Favourite
Wife—The English Begam—The Princess of Delhi, _the_ Begam
_par excellence_—Colonel Gardner—Mirza Sulimān Sheko and his
fifty-two Children—The Forty Princesses—Mootee, the Pearl of
the Desert—Hunting Season at Papamhow—Jackals and Foxes—A
Suttee at Prāg—Report of a Suttee—An Ill-starred Horse 87
CHAPTER XI.
RESIDENCE AT PRĀG.
1829.
March to Benares—Misfortunes _en suite_—The Hummām of the
Rajah—Flowers of Wax and Ubruk—Return to Prāg—Storm _en
route_—Gram—A Central Government—Thieves, Domestic—Snake
in the Stable—Death in a Pālkee—Power of the Sun to change
the Sex—Lord William Bentinck—Half-Batta—The Jaws of the
Crocodile—The Clipper—Discontent of the Army—Recovery of the
Stolen Rupees—The Gosāin—Ram Din—The Ancient Temple 98
CHAPTER XII.
SKETCHES AT ALLAHABAD.
1829.
The Snake-charmer—Ram Leela—Board of Works—The Hukāk—Kurand
Patthar—Pebbles from the Soane and Cane Rivers—Raj
Ghāt—The Dhrumsāla—The Ginee—Temple of Hŭnoomān, Ram, and
Seeta—Ravuna the Giant—Bene-Māhadēo—The Adansonia—Little Jack
Bunce—Encampment of the Governor-General—Ashes of a Rajah
consigned to the Ganges—Christmas-boxes 107
CHAPTER XIII.
REMOVAL TO CAWNPORE—CONFESSIONS OF A THUG.
1830, _January_.
Removal to Cawnpore—Failure of Messrs. Palmer and Co.—An
Appointment at Cawnpore—Removal from Allahabad—The Mowa
Tree—Futtehpore—Dead Body in a Well—The Kutcherry—Confessions
of a Thug 121
CHAPTER XIV.
RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE.
1830, _March_.
The Iron-shod Lāthī—Coins of Sekunder al Sāni—Hindostanī
Song—The first Thermantidote—Dāk to Cawnpore—The
Barkandāz—The Station—Sand-storm—Indian Method of Washing the
Hair—Pukka Houses and Bungalows—The Ayha’s Revenge—Horses
Poisoned—The Isle of France—The Visionary Old Man—Influence
of Women in India—Gambling—Eating the Air—The Ayha’s
Trowsers—Darzees—Refuge of the Distressed—Signet-rings—The
Durwān—Ganges Water—Small-pox—Grass-cutters—Beauty of a Night
in India—Forgery—Qui hy?—Winged Ants and Bugs—The Moon—A
Set-to—Revenge of a Sā’īs—Soldiers in Hospital—Arrak—The
Chārpāī—A New Servant—Unpopularity of the Governor-General 132
CHAPTER XV.
THE THUG’S DICE.
1830, _October_.
The Thug’s Dice—Execution of Eleven Thugs 151
CHAPTER XVI.
RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE—THE DEWĀLĪ.
1830, _October_.
Aghā Meer the Nawāb—Elephants Swimming the Ganges—Cashmere
Goats—Discontent of the Soldiers—Buffaloes—Methodism—Desertion
of Soldiers to Runjeet Singh—Marks of Age on Stud-bred
Horses—Abolition of Sŭtēē—Pilgrim Tax—The Dewālī—The
Phŭlŭ-hŭrēē Festival—Arrival of Aghā Meer and his
Zenāna—Vicious Horses—Turquoise Mines in Persia—Lament
of the Hindoo Women—Burning the Dead—The Mug Cook—Brutal
Punishment—Plagues of Egypt—Conversion of Hindoo Women—The
Races—The Riding School—Kishmish Bakhshish—Apples and Grapes
from Cabul—Arab Merchants 159
CHAPTER XVII.
SCENES IN OUDE.
1831, _January_.
New Year’s Day—Meeting of the King of Oude and the
Governor-General—Visit of Lord William Bentinck to Lucnow—A
Native Christian—Elephant, Tiger, Buffalo, and Bear
Fights—Constantia—Beautiful Buildings—Departure of the
Governor-General—The Padshāh Bāgh—The Royal Hummām—The King’s
Stables—The Party at the Residency—Dil-Kushā—Zoffani’s
Picture—Doves released from Captivity—The Menagerie—A Zenāna
Garden—Letter of Introduction to the Begams at Delhi—Gardner’s
Horse—The Sorrows of the Begam 173
CHAPTER XVIII.
REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA.
1831.
Pedigree of the Kings of Oude—Lucnow Mohurs—Anniversary of the
Coronation—The Prime Minister—Khema-jah—Feredooa Buckht—Evil
Omens—Mossem-ood-Dowla—Largesse—Hārs, Pān, and Atr—The
Zenāna—Sultana Boa—Mulka Zumanee—Gosseina—Tajmahŭl—Plurality of
Wives 186
CHAPTER XIX.
THE RETURN TO ALLAHABAD—EXECUTION OF TWENTY-FIVE THUGS.
1831, _February_.
Removal to Allahabad—Crocodiles—Aurunzebe’s Fort—The Old
Well at Kurrah—Arrival at Allahabad—The Thermantidote—The
King’s Picture and the Celestials—Pattū—Execution of
Twenty-five Thugs—Cholera—The Effect on the Insane—The
Arabian Leprosy—Elephantiasis—Asylums for the Blind and for
Lepers—Lachhmī, the Goddess of Prosperity—Intense Heat—Early
Rising—Danger of a Thermantidote—List of Servants 196
CHAPTER XX.
SCENES AT ALLAHABAD—PILGRIMAGE TO THE TRIVENI.
1831, _July_.
The old Brahman—The Triveni—The Achivut—The Pātal
Pooree—Temples of Bhardoajmun—Radha Krishnŭ—Hindoo Oath—The
Tulsī—The Peepul-tree—Skeleton Leaves—Lamps in the
Air—Paintings on Ubruk—Impressions on Leaves and Flowers—The
Mootee Musjid—The Crows a Pest—Byā Birds—Haymaking—The
Silver Tankard—An Earthquake—Transferring Diseases to
Flowers—Perjury—Farming Operations—Oats—Bhoodder Ram the
Dwarf—The Camel—The Powder Works and Rocket Manufactory 212
CHAPTER XXI.
LIFE IN THE ZENANA.
1832, _February_.
Devotees at the Great Fair—Wild Ducks—Quail Shooting—Price of
English Hounds—Colonel Gardner—Life in the Zenāna—The Grass
Cutter—Dūb Grass—The Gram-grinder—The Chakkī—Jack Fruit—Duty
of a Sā’īs—Arrangement of a Turban—The young Princes of
Lucnow—Archery—Indian Bows and Arrows—Whistling Arrows—The
Bows, Arrows, and War Hatchet of the Coles—The Pellet
Bow—Witchcraft practised with a charmed Bow 227
CHAPTER XXII.
ADVENTURES IN THE EAST.
1832, _May_.
Gaiety of Allahabad—Lucnow Chutnee—Tails of the Yāk—Horn
of the Unicorn—The Looking-glass Shawl—The First Flight of
Locusts—An Adventure—The Rats’ Granary—Balls—Profiles—The Leaf
Grasshopper—Appointed to Allahabad—Ramohun Roy—The Bottle of
Horrors—Narrative of a Thug—The Quicksand—Meteors and Falling
Stars—Hanging oneself for spite—The Sipahī Guard—The Ghurī—The
Sitar—The Ektara—The Gynee Club—Soonghees—Colonel Gardner 238
CHAPTER XXIII.
THE GREAT FAIR AT ALLAHABAD.
1833, _January_.
Booths at the Fair—Diamonds, Pearls, Shawls, Sable,
Coral—The Triveni—Suicide—Religious Mendicants—The Sacred
Ginī—Consecration of an Idol—Household Gods—Rosaries—Pilgrims,
Carriers of Holy Water—Snakes—Arrival of Lady William
Bentinck—Visit to the Fair—Description of the
Frontispiece—Chamelee, the Brahmanical Bull 253
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE NUT LOG.
1833, _February_.
The Hounds—A Gumuki—The Eade—Trelawny—The Rev. J. Wolff—The
Nut Log—Balancing Goat—Sirrākee Grass—A Dividend—Ear-rings
of Jasmine—A Rat given to a Cow—The Mādār—Enamelled
Grasshoppers—The Shaddock—The Agra Gun—Corruption of
Words—Variegated Locusts—Beautiful Flowers 267
CHAPTER XXV.
THE CHOLERA.
1833, _August_.
Hindū Method of Frightening away the Cholera recommended to
the Faculty—Death of the Darzee—Necromancy—The New Moon—A Bull
laden with the Pestilence—Terror of the Natives—The Pathan—An
Earthquake—Sola Hats—Importation of Ice from America—Flight of
Locusts—Steam Navigation—The Civil Service Annuity Fund—The
Bāghsira—Rajpūt Encampment—Hail Storm—Delights of the Cold
Weather 280
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE MUHARRAM.
1834, _May_.
The Imāms the Leaders of the Faithful—The Muharram—The
Procession—The Banners—The Band—The Sword-bearer—The
Mourners—Dhul Dhul—The Reader—The Fakīr—The Taziya—Tomb of
Kasim—Palkī and Trays of Mehndi—Charkh-charkhī Wālā—The
Bihīshtī—Camels—Elephants and Charity—The Chameleon—The
Ghirgit—An Alligator—The Tiger on his Travels—A well-educated
Snake—Indian Fevers—Depression of Spirit 293
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE BRAHMANICAL THREAD.
1834, _June_.
The Janao—The Fakir—The Fair—Pūja of the Cow—Cusa
Grass—The Flying Fox—Air Plants—Musk Deer—Nāg-panchamī—The
Snake—The Pinnace—City of Allahabad—The Pillar in the
Fort—Sealing-wax—Butea Frondosa—The Dewālī—The Bower—Climbers
and Creepers—The Humming Birds—The Pellet Bow—White
Ants—Chintz—The Horseradish Tree—The Ichneumon—The Garden—The
Bouquet—Cold Mornings for Hunting—The Moustache 304
CHAPTER XXVIII.
PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ.
1834, _December_.
The Seagull—The Patelī—Chapātīs—Sujawan Deota—Burriaree
Rocks—Thieves—Parbosa—Temple of Parisnāth—Darogahs—Utility
of a Pellet-bow—The Cane River—The Leak—A
Storm—Kalpee—Belaspoor—Alligators in their own
Wildernesses—River Shells—Passage through the Rocks—A
Pilot—Badowra—Fossil-bones—The Chumbal River—Bhurrage—Burning
the Dead—A Woman Drowned—Cutting through a Sandbank on a Chain
Cable—A Leak—White Ants—Picturesque Scenes—A Tufān—The Mem
Sāhiba’s Speech—River Dogs—Presents of Sweetmeats 321
CHAPTER XXIX.
PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ.
1835, _January_.
Etaweh—Moonlight Ride—The Wolves—Bird-catchers—Peacocks—The
Bar of Sand—The Good Luck of the Mem Sāhiba—Narangee
Ghāt—Betaizor—The Silk-cotton Tree—Fields of the
Cotton Plant—The Chakwā Chukwaee—Eloquence of a
Dhobee—Aladīnpoor—Noon, or Loon—Modelling in Khuree—Cotton
Boats—The Ulāk—Vessels on the River—Plantations of the Castor
Oil Plant—Cutting through a Sandbank—First Sight of the
Tāj—Porcupines—Bissowna—Quitted the Pinnace—Arrival at Agra 336
CHAPTER XXX.
THE TĀJ MAHUL.
1835, _January_.
The Tāj Mahul—Arzumund Bānoo—Shāhjahān—The Screen—The
Echo of the Dome—Momtâza Zumâni—Her Sons and
Daughters—Asaf-jāh—Noormāhul—Ruins of the second Tāj—Offerings
at the Shrine—The Wall—The Kālūn Darwāza—The Fountains—Melā
of the Eed—The Burj—The Jāmma Khāna—The Masjid—The Bāo’lī—Tomb
and Masjid of the Fathīpooree Begam—Tomb of the Akbarābādee
Begam—Ground-plan of the Tāj—The Minarets—Stones used in the
Mosaic—Tomb of the Simundee Begam—The Sitee Khanam—A Farewell
to the Tāj 348
CHAPTER XXXI.
PLEASANT DAYS IN AGRA.
1835, _February_.
The Fort—The Mosque of Pearl—The Jahāngeeree
Mahul—Mher-ul-Nissa—Selīm Ghar—The Palace in the Fort—The
Dewanī Khas—Noor-jahān Burj—Zenāna Masjid—The Shīsha-Mahal—Hall
of Audience—The Vault of Secret Murder—The Black Marble
Slab—The Throne of Akbar—The Steam Baths—The Worship of the
Rising Sun—View from the Bridge of Boats on the Jumna 360
CHAPTER XXXII.
REMARKABLE BUILDINGS AROUND AGRA.
1835, _February_.
The House of the Wuzeer—The Jāma Masjid—Tomb of
Jahānārā Begam—The Tripolia—The Mahookma Masjid—The
Madrissa—Etmad-od-Doulah—Cheen-ke-Masjid—Rām Bagh—Syud
Bagh—Secundra—The Chamber of Gold—Miriam Zemānee—Kos Minārs 370
CHAPTER XXXIII.
REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENANA.
1835, _February_.
Invitation to Khāsgunge—Kutchowra—The Zenāna—A Timoorian
Princess—Opium-eating—Native Dishes—The Evening Party—The
Beautiful Begam—Musalmanī Attire and Ornaments—Timūr-lung—Gold
and Silver Beds—Atr of various sorts—Perfume of the Body of the
Prophet—Dye for the Hands and Feet—Churees 378
CHAPTER XXXIV.
LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA, AND CHĪTĀ HUNTING.
1835, _February_.
Plurality of Wives—Intrigues and Hatred—Arrival at
Khāsgunge—The Four Walls—Arwarī Shooting—The Pūtlī-nāch—The
Lynx—Introduction to Colonel Gardner’s Begam—The Morning
Star—The Evening Star—The Nawab of Cambay—The Beautiful
Gardens—The Bara Deri—Rattler—Chītā Hunting—Antelopes—The Sulky
Chītā—Heera Sing—Chītā Hunting attended by Native Ladies 390
CHAPTER XXXV.
FATHIPOOR SICRI AND COLONEL GARDNER.
1835, _March_.
Pilgrimage of Akbar Shāh to Fathīpoor Sicri—Shaikh Selīm
Cheestie—The Jodh Bā’ī—Birth of Selīm—The Tomb of the Saint—The
Gateway—A Tradition—The Temple of Magic—The Zenāna—The Pachīsī
Board—The Mint—Akbārābādee Rupees and Gold Mohurs—The Elephant
Minār—A Child destroyed by a Wolf—Tomb of the Jodh Bā’ī—Agra
built by Akbar—Sketches of Remarkable Living Characters in
India—Legality of a Marriage between a Christian and one of the
Faithful—Colonel Gardner’s Letter—Letter of Colonel Tod—Insult
offered by Holkar—Colonel Gardner’s Marriage—Tomb of Colonel
Hessing—Cure of Influenza within the Four Walls—Death in a
Steam-Bath 401
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE MARRIAGE.
1835, _March_.
Pedigree of the Bride and Bridegroom—Reports concerning the
Beauty of the Bride—Anxiety of English Gentlemen to marry
into Colonel Gardner’s Family—Mirza Unjun Shekō—The First
Procession—The Bride’s Dress—Necessity of Weeping—The Oily
Mixture—Strict Seclusion—Dress of the Bridegroom—The Oily
Mixture complimentary—The Hoolī—Bridal Songs—The Sāchak—The
Bridegroom’s Procession—Nāch Girls on Platforms—The Menhdi—The
Grand Display in the Bride’s Procession—The Parda—The
Prince dyed with Hinnā—Midnight the Fashionable Hour for
Dinner—Wedding Dishes—Silvered Food—Conclusion of the Day—Mr.
James Gardner—Mulka Begam highly respected; her will is law 420
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE BURĀT.
1835, _March_.
The Bridegroom fights for his Bride—The Grand
Procession—Superstition of the Prince—Bridal Attire—The
Bride’s Consent—Signing the Contract—The Nose-ring—Dress of
the Bride—The Prince enters the Zenāna—He beholds his Bride—He
carries her off—Colonel Gardner’s Distress—Fanī Bhū’a—The
Bride’s Dower carried in Procession with the newly-married
Couple to the Prince’s Tents—A Singular Custom—Pān 437
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE CHĀOTREE.
1835, _April_.
The Chāotree—Timūrian Dance—Churees—Finale of the
Wedding—Jhanee Khanum—The Zenāna Doll—Jealousy of the
Natives—Meals of the Slave Girls—Tara, the Pretty Slave—Conduct
of English Ladies considered extraordinary—Poppy-heads—Devotion
of Native Women to their Husbands—Illness of Colonel
Gardner—Burial-ground of the Family—My Departure—Death of
Colonel Gardner, and of his Begam—Orders of Knighthood—Remarks
on the Muhammadān Religion, and the Punishments of the Grave 447
LIST OF PLATES TO VOL. I.
No. To face page
1. Frontispiece—Gănésh, _to face the Title_.
2. Introduction—The Camels vii
3. The Albatross 8
4. Carnicobar 14
5. The Sircar 21
6. The Chŭrŭk Pūja 27
7. Pūja of the Tulsī 43
8. Bengali Woman 60
9. The Ice Pits 77
10. Temple of Bhāwanī, and Suttees, Alopee Bāgh 95
11. A Dhrumsālā, Bene Mahādēo Ghāt 107
12. Adansonia Digitata 116
13. A Kutcherry 121
14. Hindōstanī Song 133
15. A Barkandāz 135
16. The Durwān 142
17. The Thug’s Dice 151
18. Elephant Fights 173
19. Pedigree of the Kings of Oude 186
20. Lachhmī, the Goddess of Beauty 207
21. The Grass-cutter 231
22. Hebrew Hymn 270
23. The Imāms the Leaders of the Faithful 293
24. The Tāj 348
25. Ground-plan of the Tomb of the Tāj 357
26. The Tomb of Akbar Shāh 374
27. Tomb of Shaikh Selim Cheestie 403
28. Pedigree of Colonel William Gardner 420
GLOSSARY.
A.
_Āb_, water. _Ābdār_, water-cooler.
_Abīr_, red powder used in the Holī.
_Ābnūs_, ebony.
_Achchhā_, good.
_Ādāb_, salutation, respects, politeness.
_Adālut_, court of justice.
_Ādam-ḵẖor_, a cannibal.
_Afgan_, overthrowing.
_Afg̱ẖān_, the name of a race of people who inhabit the country to the
north-west of Lahore; called also _Pathans_. They are supposed to be of
Jewish extraction.
_Afīm_, or _aphīm_, opium.
_Agārī pichhārī_, the ropes with which horses are tied.
_Agast_, æschynomene grandiflora.
_Āghā_, lord master.
_Aghan_, the eighth Hindū solar month.
_Aghorī_, professing _ughorpanth_, an order of religious mendicants, who
eat every thing, however filthy, even human carcases; hence, a gross or
filthy feeder.
_Ā’īna_, a mirror.
_Ākās_, the sky, the firmament.
_Ākās-bel_, the air-creeper; it has no root nor leaves, but grows on the
tops of trees.
_Ākās-diya_, a lamp which the Hindūs hang aloft on a bamboo in the month
_Kārtik_.
_Akbar_, very good, greatest.
_Akbarābādī_, of Akbar.
_’Alam_, a spear, a standard.
_’Alam-dār_, standard-bearer (_Abbās_).
_’Ālam-gīr_, conqueror of the universe.
_Allāh_, God. _Allāhu akbar_, God is great!
_Ām_, mango (mangifera Indica).
_Amarī_, a seat with a canopy to ride in on an elephant.
_Ānā_, a copper coin, the sixteenth part of a rupī.
_Anannās_, pine-apple.
_Āndhī_, storm, tempest.
_Angethī_, chafing-dish, brazier.
_Angiya_, a native boddice.
_Ankus_, the elephant goad.
_Arghā_, a vessel shaped like a boat, used by the Hindūs for making
libations in their devotions.
_Ārsī_, a mirror, particularly a mirror in a thumb-ring.
_Āsan_, a seat or small carpet.—See Vol. ii. p. 385.
_Asārh_, the third Hindū solar month (June and July).
_Aswina_, the first month of the Hindū lunar year.
_Ātashbāzī_, fireworks.
_Ātash-khwar_, fire-eater; name of a bird, the _chakor_.
_Atr_, perfume. _Atr-dan_, perfume-box.
_Avatār_, a descent.
_Ayb_, or _aib_, spot, mark, defect.
_Ayha_, a lady’s maid.
_Azan_, the summons to prayers, generally proclaimed from the minārs or
towers of a mosque.
B.
_Baboo_, a Hindū gentleman, a Calcutta merchant.
_Babūl_, mimosa Arabica.
_Badrī-nāth_, a celebrated place of pilgrimage.
_Badshah_, or _pādshāh_, a king.
_Bāgh_, a tiger.
_Bāgḥ_, a garden.
_Bāghsira_, gryllus monstrosus.
_Bāghīchar_, a small garden.
_’baghnā_, an ornament made of tigers’ claws.
_Bahādur_, champion, boaster.
_Bahangī_, a stick with ropes hanging to each end, for slinging baggage
to, which is carried on the shoulder.
_Bahut_, much, most.
_Bā’ī_, mistress, lady amongst the Mahrattas.
_Bailī_, bullock carriage.
_Bairāgī_, a fakīr.
_Bājrā_, panicum spicatum.
_Bakāyan_, melia sempervirens.
_Baḵẖshish_, a gift; _bakhshnā_, to give.
_Bakrā_, he-goat.
_Bandar_, a monkey.
_Bandh_, an embankment.
_Banglā_, a thatched house.
_Baniya_, shop-keeper.
_Bāns_, the bamboo.
_Bā’olī_, a large well.
_Barā_, great.
_Barā-dīn_, a holiday.
_Bāra-singha_, twelve-horned stag (cervus elaphus).
_Barāt_, marriage procession.
_Bardār_, a bearer.
_Barha’ī_, a carpenter.
_Bārī_, a garden house.
_Barkandāz_, a native policeman.
_Basantī_, yellow, the favourite colour of Krishna.
_Bastī_, a village.
_Baṭer_, quail.
_Batū’ā_, a small bag.
_Baunā_, a dwarf.
_Bāwarchī_, cook.
_Bayā_, loxia Indica.
_Bāzār_, market.
_Bāzūbands_, armlets.
_Begam_, lady.
_Bel_, ægle marmelos (cratæva religiosa).
_Belā_, jasminum zambac.
_Bengālī_, a native of Bengal.
_Bér_, or _bar_, ficus Indica.
_Besan_, flour or meal of pulse, particularly of _chanā_ (cicer
arietinum).
_Betī_, daughter.
_Bhabhūt_, ashes which the fakīrs use.
_Bhagat_, a devotee of a religious order, peculiar to the low tribes,
whose initiation consists in putting a necklace of beads around the neck,
and marking a circle on the forehead; after which the initiated person is
bound to refrain from spirituous liquors, flesh, &c.
_Bhāgulpūr_, the town of.
_Bhagwān_, the Deity, the Supreme Being, fortunate.
_Bhains_, buffalo.
_Bhaiyā_, brother.
_Bhang_, or _bhengh_, cannabis Indica.
_Bhātā_, an extra allowance to troops on service.
_Bhū’a_, a father’s sister.
_Bhūsā_, chopped straw.
_Bichchhū_, the scorpion.
_Bidrī_, a kind of _tutanag_, inlaid with silver, used to make _hukka_
bottoms, cups, &c.
_Bīghā_, a quantity of land, containing 20 _katthās_, or 120 feet square,
or 1600 square yards, which is nearly one-third of an English acre; in
the Upper Provinces it is nearly five-eighths of an acre.
_Bihisht_, paradise.
_Bihishtī_, a water-carrier.
_Bilva_, or _bilwa_, cratæva marmelos (Linn.).
_Binaulā_, seed of the cotton tree.
_Biskhopra_, lacerta iguana.
_Bismillāh_, in the name of God.
_Boxwālā_, an itinerant merchant with a box of goods.
_Brahm_, or _Brŭmhŭ_, the one eternal God.
_Brahma_, the first person of the Hindū trinity.
_Brahman_, an Hindū priest.
_Brahmand_, the mundane egg of the Hindūs.
_Bṛindāban_, the forest of _Bṛindā_, in the vicinity of _Mathurā_,
celebrated as the scene of Krishna’s sports with the Gopīs.
_Burāk_, Muhammad’s steed.
_Burhiyā_, old woman.
_Burj_, a bastion, tower; _burūj_, pl.
_Burjī_, a turret, a small tower.
_Burka_, a dress, a disguise.
C.
_Chabenī_, parched grain.
_Chābuk_, a whip.
_Chabūtāra_, a terrace to sit and converse on.
_Chādir_, _Chādar_, mantle, garment.
_Chakkī_, a mill-stone.
_Chakor_, partridge (perdix chukar).
_Chakwā_, Brāhmanical duck.
_Chakwī_, the female of the _chakwā_.
_Chamār_, currier, shoemaker.
_Champā kalī_, a necklace.
_Chanā_, gram (cicer arietinum).
_Chānd_, the moon.
_Chandnī-chauk_, a wide and public street or market.
_Chandnī kā mār-janā_, a disease in horses, supposed to proceed from a
stroke of the moon. “The moonlight has fallen on him,” is said especially
of a horse that is weak in the loins.
_Chāotree_, or _chauthī_, a marriage ceremony, the fourth day.
_Chapātī_, a thin cake of unleavened bread.
_Chaprāsī_, a messenger or servant wearing a _chaprās_, badge.
_Chār_, four.
_Charḵẖī_, a spinning-wheel, &c.
_Chārpāī_, bed, four-legged.
_Chatā’ī_, mat.
_Chatr_, umbrella.
_Chauk_, market.
_Chaukīdār_, watchman.
_Chaunrī_, fly-flapper.
_Chhach hūndar_, musk-rat.
_Chhallā_, thumb or great toe ring.
_Chhappar_, a thatched roof.
_Chhat_, roof.
_Chhattak_, about an ounce.
_Chilamchī_, washhand bason.
_Chirāgh_, lamp.
_Chirāgh-dān_, stand for lamps.
_Chiṛi-mār_, bird-catcher.
_Chītā_, hunting leopard.
_Chītthī_, note.
_Chob-dār_, mace-bearer.
_Chor_, or _cho’ār_, thief.
_Chūlee_, a fire-place.
_Chūnā_, lime.
_Chūrī_, bracelets.
_Chŭrŭk-pūja_, a festival.
_Chyūnta_, black ant.
_Compound_, ground around a house.
_Conch_, a shell.
_Corook._ See _Kurk_.
D.
_Dabāo_, pressure.
_Daftarī_, the paper-ruler, penmaker, &c.
_Dāk_, post, post-office.
_Dakait_, or _dākū_, a robber.
_Daldal_, bog, quagmire.
_Dālī_, basket of fruit.
_Damṛī_, a coin, four to a _paisā_.
_Dānd_, oar.
_Dāndī_, boatman.
_Darbār_, hall of audience.
_Dārogha_, head man of an office, inspector.
_Darwāza_, a door; _darwān_, doorkeeper.
_Daryā-i_, or _daryā_, the sea, river.
_Darzī_, a tailor.
_Dastkhatt_, signature.
_Dastūrī_, perquisites paid to servants by one who sells to their master.
_Daulut-khāna_, house of fortune.
_Derā_, a dwelling, a tent.
_Devī_, a goddess.
_Dewālai_, _dewāl_, or _dewālaya_, temple of idols.
_Dewālī_, an Hindū festival, celebrated on the day of the new moon
of _Kārtik_; when the Hindūs, after bathing in the Ganges, perform a
_shraddhā_, and at night worship Laksḥmī; the houses and streets are
illuminated all night; and in Hindostan the night is universally spent in
gaming.
_Dhān_, rice before it is separated from the husks.
_Dhanuk_, a bow, a bowman.
_Dhobī_, washerman.
_Dhotī_, a cloth, passed round the waist, passing between the limbs, and
fastening behind.
_Dighī_, a large tank or reservoir, in the form of an oblong square.
_Dil_, heart; _dil-kushā_, heart-expanding.
_Dillī_, or _Dihlī_, the metropolis of Hindūstan; generally called by
Musalmāns Shah-jehan-abad, and by Europeans Delhi.
_Dinghee_, a small boat.
_Dīwak_, white ant.
_Dīwān-i-am_, public hall of audience.
_Dīwān-i-ḵẖās_, privy-council chamber.
_Dog̱ẖ_, buttermilk.
_Dohā’ī_, or _duhā’ī_, mercy.
_Dolī_, a kind of sedan for women.
_Domra_, the name of a caste of Musalmāns, the males of which are
musicians, and the females sing and dance in the company of females only.
_Donī_, a native vessel or boat.
_Dopatta_, or _dupatta_, a sheet of two breadths.
_Do-shāla_, or _du-shāla_, two and shawl, two shawls being always worn
together by the natives.
_Dosūtā_, two-threaded cloth.
_Dūb_, name of a grass (agrostis linearis).
_Dūdhiyā_, milky.
_Duldul_, a hedgehog; the name of the horse of ’Ali, the prophet’s
son-in-law.
_Dūlhā_, or _dūlha_, bridegroom.
_Dulhān_, bride.
_Dumba_, a kind of sheep with a thick tail.
_Durga_, one of the names of Bhawānī, the goddess Durgā.
_Durga-pūja_, the festival in honour of Durgā.
_Durgah_, a tomb, a shrine.
E.
_Eed_, a festival, a solemnity.
F.
_Fajr_, morning; _barī-fajr_, early dawn.
_Faḵẖr_, glory, nobility.
_Fakīr_, a religious mendicant.
_Falīta_, fusee; _falīta-dār_, a matchlock.
_Fānūs_, a shade to keep the wind from a candle.
_Fatḥ_, victory.
_Fāṭīma_, the daughter of the prophet, and the wife of the caliph ’Ali.
_Fidwī_, devoted (your devoted servant).
_Fīl_, elephant.
_Fīl-ḵẖāna_, elephant shed.
_Fīl-pāī_, elephantiasis.
G.
_Gaddī_, sovereign’s throne.
_Gāgrī_, a water-vessel of brass.
_Gainā_, a species of small bullock.
_Gaini_, a carriage for a _gainā_.
_Galahi_, forecastle.
_Gal’haiya_, boatswain, forecastle-man.
_Gālī_, abuse.
_Gāndar_, a kind of grass, of which _khas-khas_ is the root (andropogon
muricatum).
_Ganjha_, or _gānja_, the young buds on the leaves of the hemp-plant.
_Garh_, a fort, as _fatīh-garh_.
_Garī_, a cart, a carriage.
_Garī-wan_, carter, driver.
_Gaur_, an ancient city, formerly the capital of Bengal.
_Ghantā_, a clock.
_Ghar_, a house.
_Gharā_, an earthen water-pot.
_Gharāmī_, a thatcher.
_Gharī_, an instrument for measuring time, a water-clock.
_Gharis_, division of time.
_Ghariyāl_, a crocodile, a plate of brass for beating time.
_Ghariyālī_, the person who attends the _gharī_, and strikes the hours.
_Gharna’ī_, a raft supported by empty pots (_gharā_, an earthen
water-pot).
_Ghī_, clarified butter.
_Ghirgut_, or _girgut_, lizard, chameleon.
_Ghulām_, slave.
_Ghunghrū_, a small bell, or little bells on a string for the ankles.
_Ghur_, or _ghorā_, a horse.
_Ghur-daur_, race-course.
_Ghuwā_, a coarse kind of cotton cloth.
_Go-mukhī_, a cloth bag, containing a rosary, the hand being thrust in
counts the beads; the chasm in the Himalaya mountains, through which the
Ganges issues.
_Gobar_, cow-dung.
_Gola_, a granary.
_Gop_, a cow, a caste.
_Gopī_, feminine of _gwālā_, a cowherd.
_Gor-istān_, burying-ground.
_Gosā’īn_, a holy man.
_Gul-āb_, rose-water.
_Gul-badan_, a kind of silk cloth.
_Gulistān_, rose garden.
_Gun_, track rope.
_Gūnth_, a pony.
_Gurū_, spiritual director.
H.
_Hājī_, pilgrim.
_Hajjām_, a barber.
_Hakīm_, a physician, a learned man.
_Hakrī_, a cart.
_Hammām_, a hot bath.
_Hān_, yes.
_Hāndī_, a pot, a small cauldron.
_Hār_, a necklace of pearls, a wreath, a chaplet of flowers.
_Hargilla_, the adjutant, or gigantic crane.
_Harkāra_, running footman.
_Harphārewrī_, or _harphāraurī_, the name of a sour fruit (averrhoa
acida, Linn.).
_Hāth_, the hand, a cubit, or eighteen inches.
_Hāthī_, an elephant.
_Hathī-wān_, elephant-driver.
_Hawāldār_, a native military officer of inferior rank.
_Hāzim_, digestive.
_Hāzir_, present.
_Hāzirī_, breakfast.
_Ḥaẓrat_, a title addressed to the great; majesty; highness.
_Ḥaẓrat’īsā_, Jesus Christ.
_Hinnā_, the tree lawsonia inermis.
_Hirdāwal_, the name of a defect in horses.
_Hisāb_, accounts, computation.
_Howā_, air.
_Howdah_, a seat to ride in on an elephant, without a canopy.
_Hubāb_, a bubble.
_Hubāb-i_, bubbling.
_Hukāk_, stone-cutter, lapidary.
_Huḳḳa_, or _hooqŭ_, a pipe.
_Huḳḳa-bardar_, pipe-bearer.
_Hukm_, order.
_Huzūr_, the presence.
I. J.
_Jādū_, enchantment.
_Jādū-garī_, magic.
_Jafari_, lattice-work.
_Jāgīr_, land given as a reward for service.
_Jahānārā_, world adorning.
_Jahān-gīr_, world-taking.
_Jahān-pannāh_, world protection, his majesty, your majesty.
_Jahannam_, the infernal regions.
_Jahaz_, a ship.
_Jahāzi_, a sailor.
_Jai_, or _jaya_, triumph, victory, bravo! huzza! all hail!
_Ja’ī_, oats.
_Jamadār_, head of the _harkāras_.
_Jān_, life, soul, spirit.
_Janao_, Brāhmanical thread.
_Jangal_, forest.
_Janglī-kawwa_, a raven.
_Janwār_, an animal.
_Jawāb_, an answer.
_Jhaīhar_, cymbals or bells for the ankles.
_Jhāmā_, pumice-stone, bricks burnt to a cinder.
_Jhāmp_, a matted shutter.
_Jhārū_, a broom.
_Jhārū-bardar_, a sweeper.
_Jinn-ī_, genii.
_Ikbal_, good fortune.
_Imām_, a leader in religious affairs.
_Indra_, the Hindū heaven.
_Joār_, or _jwār_, millet (andropogon sorghum).
_Ishk-peshā_, ipomea quamoclit.
_Islām_, the religion of Muhammad.
_Istrī_, a smoothing iron, a wife.
_Jum’a_, Friday.
_Jum’a-rāt_, Thursday, eve of Friday.
_Izār-bund_, the string with which trowsers are tied.
K.
_Ka’ba_, the temple of Mecca.
_Kabr_, a grave, a tomb.
_Ḳabūl_ or _ḳubūl_, consent, assent.
_Kābul_, the capital of Afg̱ẖanistān.
_Kacharī_, or _kacherī_, court of justice, an office.
_Kachchhī_, a horse with a hollow back, from the province of Kachchh, on
the banks of the Sind.
_Kachnār_, bauhinia variegata.
_Ḳadam_, a footstep.
_Ḳadam-bos_, one who kisses the feet of a superior.
_Kadam-chūṃṇā_, to kiss the feet, to bid adieu.
_Kāfir_, infidel.
_Kāfūr_, camphor.
_Kāghaz_, paper.
_Kāghazī_, paper-case.
_Kāhan_, an aggregate number, consisting of 17 _pans_, or 1280 _kaurīs_.
_Kahār_, a palkī bearer.
_Kahwa_, coffee.
_Kālā_, black.
_Kālā chor_, an unknown person, a domestic thief.
_Kālā namak_, a kind of rock salt, impregnated with bitumen and sulphur.
_Kālā pānī_, the ocean, the black water.
_Kālā zīra_, the seeds of the nigella Indica.
_Kalam_, a pen, a reed.
_Kalam-dan_, inkstand.
_Kalg̱ẖī_, an ornament on a turban, an aigrette, a plume.
_Kālī_, the goddess; or, _Kālī Mā_, the black mother.
_Kalsā_, the spire or ornament on the top of a dome, a pinnacle.
_Kam-baḵẖt_, unfortunate.
_Kam de’o_, the god of love.
_Kamān_, a bow.
_Kamān-dār_, an archer.
_Kamarband_, a girdle.
_Kammal_, a blanket.
_Kanāt_, canvas enclosure, walls of a tent.
_Kanauj_, the ancient city.
_Kangan_, an ornament worn on the wrists of Hindū women, a bracelet.
_Kangni_, millet (panicum Italicum).
_Kanhaiyā_, a name of _Kṛisḥṇa_.
_Kans_, or _Kansa_, the tyrant whom _Kṛisḥṇa_ was born to destroy.
_Kapās_, cotton undressed, the cotton plant (gossypium herbaceum).
_Kaprā_, cloth.
_Karbalā_, the name of a place in Irāk, where Ḥusain, the son of ’Ali,
was murdered.
_Karbī_, the stalk or straw of _jo’ār_ or _bājrā_ (holcus sorgum and
spicatus).
_Kār-khāna_, workshop.
_Kark-nath_, a fool with black bones.
_Karn-phūl_, a kind of ear-ring.
_Karor_, ten millions.
_Kārtik_, a Hindū month, our October and November.
_Karwā-tel_, oil made from mustard-seed, bitter oil.
_Kās_, a kind of grass of which rope is made (saccharum spontaneum).
_Ḳaṣā’ī_, a butcher, cruel, hard-hearted.
_Kāshī_, the city of Benares.
_Kāsid_, courier, a runner.
_Kath_, an astringent vegetable extract.
_Katmiram_, (vulgo: _catamaran_,) a very small raft, used as a fishing
boat on the coast of Madras.
_Kaurī_, a cowrie, a small shell used as a coin (cypræa moneta).
_Kāwar_, the baskets in which the holy water is carried.
_Kawwā_, a crow.
_Kāzī_, a judge.
_Ḵẖāla_, mother’s sister.
_Ḵẖalāsī_, a sailor, a native artilleryman, a tent pitcher.
_Khān_, a lord, a title of respect.
_Ḵẖāna_, a house.
_Ḵẖānā_, food.
_Khāna-pīnā_, meat and drink.
_Khānsāmān_, head table-servant.
_Ḵẖarītạ_, bag, a letter.
_Khas-khas_, root of _gāndar_.—See _Gāndar_.
_Kḥatrī_, the second of the four grand Hindū castes, being that of the
military.
_Kazānchī_, treasurer.
_Khet_, a field.
_Khidmatgar_, table-servant.
_Khil’at_, dress of honour.
_Khīsā_, a rubber used in baths.
_Khraunchī_, a native carriage.
_Ḵẖudā_, God.
_Ḵẖudā-wand_, master.
_Ḵẖudā-yā_, O God!
_Khūnd_, a well, a spring.
_Khush-bo_, perfume, odour.
_Khusrū_, the king; _Khusrau_, the sultan.
_Kibla-gāh_, the place turned to when at prayer; a father, or the one
beloved.
_Kibla_, Mecca, an altar.
_Kimḵẖwab_, silk brocade worked in gold and silver flowers.
_Kishan_, the Hindū god _Kṛisḥṇa_.
_Kishtī_, (prop. _kashtī_), a ship, boat, barque.
_Kismat_, fate, destiny.
_Kitāb_, a book.
_Kohī_, mountain.
_Kohī-nūr_, the mountain of light, the great diamond.
_Kohirawān_, the moving mountain, _i.e._ the elephant.
_Kot_, a fort.
_Krānī_, a clerk.
_Krishna_, a descent of _Vishnŭ_.
_Kū’ā_, a well.
_Kudalī_, a small pickaxe.
_Ḳulfī_, a cup with a cover, in which ice is moulded.
_Kumbhīr_, an alligator.
_Kumhār_, potter.
_Kum’hir_, a crocodile.
_Kur’ān_, (vulgo: _koran_,) the precepts of Muhammad.
_Kurand_, corundum stone (adamantine spar).
_Kurk_, an order made public, that no one may be seen on the road on pain
of death.
_Kurtā_, a kind of shirt, a tunic.
_Kurtī_, a short garment for women, jacket for soldiers, coat.
_Kusūr_, fault.
_Ḳuṭb_, the polar star, the north pole.
_Kuttā_, a dog.
_Kutwāl_, native magistrate, head of the police.
L.
_Lachḥman_, the half-brother of Rāmachandra.
_Lachḥmī_, the goddess of beauty.
_Lailī_, also _Lailā_, the beloved of Majnūn.
_Lākh_, one hundred thousand; _gum lac_, a kind of wax formed by the
coccus lacca.
_Lāṭ_, or _lāṭh_, obelisk, pillar, club, staff.
_Lāṭhī_, staff, stick.
_Lāw_, a rope, cable.
_Līchī_, a fruit (dimocarpus litchi).
_Līl_, indigo.
_Log_, people.
_Lon_, salt.
_Lota_, a drinking vessel.
_Lubāda_, or _labāda_, a wrapper, great coat.
_Lūnī_, the salt that effloresces from walls.
_Lunj_, or _langrā_, lame.
M.
_Mā_, mother.
_Mā-bāp_, mother and father, parents.
_Machh_, or _Machchh_, the name of the first avatār.
_Machchhar_, a gnat.
_Machhlī_, or _Machhī_, a fish.
_Madrasa_, a Muhammadan college.
_Magar_, an alligator.
_Magrela_, a seed (nigella Indica).
_Mahā-bhārat_, the great war.
_Mahādēo_, or _Mahā-deva_, a descent of Shiva.
_Mahā-kalī_, or _Kalī-mā_, a terrific form of Durgā, the consort of Shiva.
_Māhā-nimba_, melia sempervirens.
_Mahārāj_, great king, excellency.
_Mahārājā_, an Hindū emperor.
_Mahạl_, house.
_Mahāwat_, elephant driver.
_Mahū’ā_, or _mahu’ā_, bassia longifolia, bearing flowers which are
sweet, and from which a spirituous liquor is distilled; the nuts afford
an oil used instead of butter.
_Maidān_, a plain.
_Makka_, vulgo: _Mecca_.
_Makrī_, a spider.
_Mālā_, Hindū rosary, a garland.
_Mālī_, gardener, florist.
_Mālik_, lord, master.
_Manḍap_, or _mandul_, a house, a temple.
_Mangūs_, or _newalā_ (viverra mungo), ichneumon.
_Mānjhī_, master of a vessel, steersman.
_Maṣālaḥ_, spices, drugs, materials.
_Mash’al_, a torch.
_Mash’al-chi_, torch-bearer.
_Mashk_, water bag.
_Masīḥ_, or _Masīḥā_, the Messiah, Christ our Lord.
_Masjid_, mosque.
_Masjid-i-jāmī_, a great mosque.
_Masnad_, a throne, a large cushion.
_Māyā_, idealism, illusion; a deception depending on the power of the
Deity, whereby mankind believe in the existence of external objects,
which are in fact nothing but idea.
_Melā_, a fair.
_Mem sāhiba_, madam, the lady of the house.
_Menhdī_, lawsonia inermis.
_Mihtaranī_, sweeper’s wife.
_Mik’hal_, the instrument with which collyrium is applied to the eyes.
_Mirg_, a deer.
_Mirg nābbī_, musk, a bag of musk.
_Mirzā_, a prince.
_Misī_, or _missī_, a powder to tinge the teeth black.
_Misrāb_, a steel frame for the fore-finger when playing on the sitar.
_Motī_, a pearl.
_Muazzin_, the call to prayers.
_Mufassal_, the country.
_Mugdar_, a club.
_Muḥammad_, the Arabian prophet.
_Muḥarram_, the first Muhammadan month.
_Mulākāt_, interview.
_Mulk_, kingdom, realm.
_Mumtāz_, distinguished, exalted.
_Mŭn_, a weight, forty ser.
_Mund-māl_, a necklace of human heads.
_Munh_, mouth.
_Muniyā_, amadavat.
_Munkir_, _Nakīr_, the names of the two angels who examine the dead in
the tomb.
_Murabbā_, a preserve, confection.
_Musāfir_, a traveller.
_Muṣāhib_, aide-de-camp, companion.
_Muṣallā_, a carpet to pray upon.
_Musalmān_, a Muhammadan.
_Musalmanī_, fem. of _Musalmān_.
_Mushk_, musk.
_Mut’h_, Hindū temple.
N.
_Nāch_, an Indian dance.
_Nadī_, or _naddī_, a river.
_Nadir-shāh_, the king.
_Nā’echa_, a small reed, _hukka_ snake.
_Nāgā_, the holy serpent.
_Nahīn_, or _nā’īch_, not, no.
_Nālā_, a rivulet.
_Nālkī_, a sort of litter used by people of rank.
_Nānd_, a large earthen pan.
_Nārangī_, an orange.
_Nārjīl_, cocoa-nut, or cocoa-nut tree.
_Nasīb_, fortune; _balā-nasīb_, unfortunate.
_Nawab_, vulg. Nabob.
_Nazr_, a gift especially offered to a superior.
_Newala_, mungoose (viverra mungo).
_Newār_, tape.
_N’hut_, a nose-ring.
_Nīl-gāw_, _lil-gā’ī_, or _rojh_, the white-footed antelope of Pennant,
antilope picta of Pallos.
_Nīm_, or _neemb_, margosa tree (melia azadirachta).
_Nīmbu_, or _līmu_, a fruit, the lime.
_Nūn_, _non_, or _lon_, salt.
_Nūr_, light.
_Nut-log_, tumblers.
P.
_Pābos_, kissing the feet.
_Pachāsī_, a game, so named from the highest throw, which is twenty-five.
_Padshāh_, a king.
_Pāgal_, fool; _pāgal-i-nāch_, a fancy-ball.
_Pahār_, a mountain.
_Pahar_, a watch of three hours.
_Pahare-wālā_, a sentry.
_Pahār-i_, a hill, a mountain.
_Pā’ī_, the fourth part of an _ānā_.
_Paisā_, copper coin.
_Pājāma_, trowsers, long drawers.
_Pakkā_, exact, expert, built of brick.
_Palang_, couch, cot.
_Palīta_, match (of a gun).
_Pālkī_, or _palkee_, a palanquin.
_Palwār_, a boat.
_Pān_, leaves of piper betel.
_Panchāyāt_, a court of inquiry.
_Pānī_, water.
_Pankhā_, a fan.
_Pā-posh_, slipper.
_Pāras-patthar_, the philosopher’s stone.
_Pārbatī_, _pārvatī_, mountaineer.
_Parbut_, mountain.
_Parda-nishīn_, remaining behind the curtain.
_Parī_, fairy.
_Pāt_, a leaf, ornament worn in the upper part of the ear.
_Pātā_, a plank on which washermen beat clothes.
_Pātāl_, the infernal regions.
_Patelā_, or _patailā_, a flat-bottomed boat.
_Patelī_, a small flat-bottomed boat.
_Pāthur_, or _patthar_, a stone.
_Pattar_, _puttī_, or _pattī_, a leaf.
_Pattū_, a kind of woollen cloth.
_Pera_, a sweetmeat.
_Peshkār_, minister, deputy.
_Peshwā_, Mahratta minister.
_Peshwāz_, a gown.
_Phāns_, a bamboo.
_Phānsī-gār_, a strangler, a _ṭhag_.
_Phānsnā_, to noose.
_Phurr_, the noise of a bird, as a partridge or quail, suddenly taking
wing.
_Phuslānā_, to decoy.
_Phuslā’ū_, wheedling.
_Pīlī-bhīt_, the name of a town in Rohilkhand, famous for the smallness
and fineness of its rice.
_Pinnace_, a yacht.
_Pīpal_, ficus religiosa.
_Pīr_, a saint.
_Pitārā_, a basket.
_Piyāla_, a glass, a cup.
_Prāg_, the ancient name of Ilāhābād, commonly Allahabad.
_Pūjā_, worship, adoration.
_Pul_, a bridge.
_Pulā’o_, a dish of flesh and rice.
_Pur_, a town, a city.
_Purā_, a large village, a town.
_Purāṇ_ or _purāṇa_, the Hindū mythological books.
_Putla_, a puppet, an image.
_Pūtlī_, a small puppet or image.
_Puwāl_, straw.
R.
_Rahīm_, merciful, compassionate.
_Rahmān_, forgiving.
_Ra’īyat_, tenants, subjects.
_Rāj_, kingdom.
_Rājā_, a prince, a king.
_Rāj-rānī_, a queen, royal consort.
_Rājput_, a descendant of a _rājā_, the name of a celebrated military
caste.
_Rākkī_, a bracelet or amulet, which the Hindūs tie on their arms on
a certain festival, held in the full moon of _Sāwan_, in honour of
_Ḳrisḥṇa_.
_Rām_, the seventh Hindū incarnation.
_Rām-rām_, a Hindū form of salutation.
_Rāmtur’aī_, hibiscus longifolius.
_Rānī_, a Hindu queen or princess.
_Rā’ō_, a prince.
_Rās_, the circular dance performed at the festival of Krishna.
_Rās-dhārī_, a dancing boy.
_Rasūl_, a messenger.
_Rāt-alū_, the yam (dioscorea sativa).
_Rat-aundhā_, blindness at night (nyctalopia).
_Rath_, a four-wheeled carriage.
_Rauza_, mausoleum.
_Rāwtī_, a kind of tent.
_Ṛezai_, or _razā’ī_, a native counterpane.
_Rikhi_ or _ṛisḥi_, a sage, a saint.
_Rohū_, a fish (cyprinus denticulatus).
_Rotī_, wheaten cakes baked on an iron plate, called _tawā_.
_Rūpiya_, a rupee.
_Rustam_, a hero.
S.
_Sach_, truth.
_Sāchak_, hinnā presented to the bride on the day of marriage.
_Sadr’adālut_, supreme court of justice.
_Sāgar_, the sea, the ocean.
_Sāgūn_, teak, a forest tree.
_Sahajnā_, horseradish tree.
_Sāhib_, master, gentleman of the house.
_Sāhiba_, lady.
_Sā’īs_, a groom.
_Sajjāda_, a carpet or mat on which the Muhammadans kneel at prayers.
_Sālagrām_, a stone containing the impression of one or more ammonites.
_Salām_, salutation, peace, safety.
_Salāmut_, salvation, safety.
_Sallam_, cloth.
_Sālotarī_, horse doctor.
_Samāt_, signs.
_Samudr_, the sea.
_Sānchā_, a mould.
_Sang-i-miknātīs_, the loadstone.
_Sang-i-sulaimānī_, agate, onyx.
_Sang-tarāsh_, a stone-cutter, lapidary.
_Sang-i-yashm_, a kind of jasper or agate.
_Sangtara_, an orange (cintra).
_Sankh_, a conch which the Hindūs blow, a shell.
_Sānkho_, shorea robusta.
_Sarā’e_, a native inn.
_Sarā’ī_, a small cover.
_Sārangī_, a musical instrument like a fiddle.
_Sāras_, a species of heron (ardea antigone), saras phenicopteros.
_Sardar_, headman.
_Sarhang_, (corrupt: _serang_,) or _galaiya_, master of a vessel,
commander.
_Sarī_, a dress, consisting of one long piece of cloth or silk, worn by
Hindū women.
_Sarkār_, a superintendent.
_Sarp_, a serpent.
_Sarpat_, a kind of reed or grass (saccharum procerum).
_Sarpesh_, an ornament worn in the turban.
_Sarposh_, cover, lid.
_Satī_, a woman who burns herself on her husband’s funeral pile, chaste,
virtuous, constant.
_Sawār_, a horseman.
_Ser_, two pounds.
_Shab-bo_, polianthes tuberosa.
_Shaddā_, the banners that are carried with the Taziya in the Muharram.
_Shādī_, a wedding, marriage.
_Shāh_, king.
_Shāh-bāsh!_ bravo!
_Shāh-zāda_, a prince.
_Shāhī_, kinglike.
_Shaikh_, (vulgo: _Shekh_,) a chief, a venerable old man.
_Sharāb_, wine.
_Sharm_, shame.
_Shāstr_, Hindū scriptures.
_Shatrang-i_ or _sutraengī_, a kind of carpet.
_Sher_, a tiger, a lion.
_Shī’a_, a follower of the sect of ’Alī.
_Shikār_, chase.
_Shīsha_, glass.
_Shīsha-mahul_, a house adorned with glass.
_Shīsham_, dalbergia sissoo (Roxb.).
_Shiva_, the third person of the Hindū triad.
_Sholā_, (commonly pronounced _sola_,) æschynomene paludosa (Roxb.).
_Sihrā_, a chaplet worn on the head by the bridegroom and bride at the
marriage ceremony.
_Silā_, the stone on which cooks grind, with the looreea or rolling pin
of stone.
_Singhārā_, trapa natans.
_Sipāh’ī_, (whence seapoy,) a soldier.
_Sir_, head.
_Sircar_. See _Sarkār_.
_Sirjāh-tālū_, black mouthed.
_Sītalpatī_, a fine and cool mat.
_Siwālā_, or _shīwālā_, a temple dedicated to Mahadēo.
_Sonā_, gold; _sonahla_, golden.
_Sontā_, a club.
_Sonte-bardār_, a mace-bearer; a person in the retinue of the great,
armed with a short curved club, generally covered with silver.
_Sraddha_, funeral obsequies in honour of ancestors.
_Srī_ or _Shrī_, a name of _Laksḥmī_, the wife of _Visḥṇu_. It is written
as a mark of respect at the beginning of Hindū proper names of persons.
_Sū’ar_, a hog.
_Sūbadār_, governor of a province.
_Sulaimān_, Solomon.
_Sultān_, king, emperor.
_Sunn_, hemp.
_Sunnī_, an orthodox Muhammadan, who reveres equally the four successors
of Muhammad. The Turks are _Sunnīs_, the Persians are _Shī’as_.
_Sūp_, a kind of basket for winnowing corn.
_Supyāri_, betel nut.
_Surāh-ī_, a long-necked goblet.
_Surma_, collyrium.
T.
_Taat_, paper made of hemp, i.e. _sunn_.
_Tāj_, a crown.
_Takā_, a copper coin, equal to two _paisā_.
_Takht_, a throne; _padshah-i-takht_, the king’s throne.
_Taksāl_, the mint.
_Tamāshā_, fun, sport.
_Tana_, a spider’s web.
_Tanjan_, a chair carried by natives.
_Tarāi_, marsh meadows.
_Tasar_, a cloth.
_Tattī_, a screen or matted shutter.
_Tattoo_, a pony.
_Tawā_, the iron plate on which (_rotī_) bread is baked.
_Taziya_, the representation of the tomb of Hasun and Husain, used during
the Muharram.
_Thaili_, purse, bag.
_Thiliyā_, water pot.
_Tīkā_, a mark or marks made with coloured earths, or unguents, upon
the forehead and between the brows, either as ornament or sectorial
distinction; an ornament worn on the forehead.
_Tilak_, a mark the Hindūs make on the forehead.
_Tiriyā_, wife.
_Tiriyā-raj_, Amazon country, petticoat government.
_Top_, cannon.
_Tope_, plantation.
_Tri-benī_, or _tri-venī_, the junction of the three sacred rivers.
_Tūfān_, a hurricane, a storm of wind whirling round.
_Tulsī_, a plant, basil (ocymum sanctum).
U. V.
_Uchchat tilak_, a religious ceremony, see vol. ii. p. 385.
_Visḥṇu_, the second person of the Hindū triad.
_Ulāk_, a small boat.
_Ummed-wār_, an expectant.
_Voirājī_, or _bairāgī_, a religious mendicant.
_Uplā_, cakes of dried cow-dung.
W.
_Walī-uhd_, heir apparent.
Y.
_Yāk_, the small cow of Thibet.
_Yug_, or _yuga_, an age of the world. The Hindūs reckon four _yugas_, or
ages, since the creation of the present world.
_Yugānt_, the end of the four _yugas_, or ages, when, according to the
Hindūs, a total destruction of the universe takes place.
Z.
_Zaban-i-urdū_, the court language.
_Zāmin_, guarantee.
_Zamīndar_, landlord.
_Zanāna_, or _zenāna_, female apartments, feminine, effeminate.
_Zūl-jana_, the horse of Husain, _i.e._ the winged wolf.
_Zunnār_, the Brahmanical thread.
WANDERINGS OF A PILGRIM.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.
1822, _April_.—Flying Visit to Switzerland—The good
Ship ‘Marchioness of Ely’—H. M. 16th Lancers—Porto
Santo—Fellow-Passengers—Isle of Palma—Divine
Service—The Band—Quadrilles—The first Shark—Bristol
Water—Skip-jacks—Prickly heat—Crossing the Line—Amusements on
Board—A Blue Shark—Sucking-Fish—Bonito—Santa Trinidada and
Martin Vas Rocks—The Albatross—Thoughts of Home—A Calm—Shooting
Season on the Ocean—Three Days of Battue—Whale-Shooting—A deep
Calm—Scarcity of Water—Anchored at Carnicobar.
In April, 1822, Monsieur mon mari took me to Switzerland. For the first
time, I quitted England. How beautiful was the Valley of Chamouni! how
delightful our expedition on the La Flegère! The guides pronounced it
too early in the year to attempt the ascent of Mont Blanc. We quitted
the valley with regret, and returned to Geneva: but our plans were
frustrated, and our hopes disappointed; for, on reaching the hotel, we
found a letter requiring our instant return to England. The ‘Marchioness
of Ely,’ in which we had taken our passage to Bengal, was reported to
be ready to sail in a few days: no time was to be lost; we started
immediately, travelled night and day incessantly, and arrived, greatly
harassed, in town. The illness brought on by the over-fatigue of that
journey never quitted me for years. The vessel, however, was merely
preparing for her departure, and did not sail until long after.
Happily the pain of separation from the beloved home of my childhood was
broken by the necessity of exertion in preparation for the voyage.
_June 13th._—We went to Gravesend, to see the ship: it was scarcely
possible to enter our destined abode, the larboard stern cabin; so full
was it to overflowing—boxes of clothes, hampers of soda water, crates
of china and glass—a marvellous confusion! After a time the hampers and
boxes were carried below, the furniture cleated and lashed, and some sort
of order was established.
We had carefully selected a ship that was not to carry troops: we now
found the ‘Ely’ had been taken up to convey four troops of H. M. 16th
Lancers; the remainder of the regiment was to sail in the ‘General
Hewitt.’ Some of our fellow-passengers were on board on the same errand
as ourselves.
_June 18th._—We had lingered with our friends, and had deferred the sad
farewell until the last moment: half uncertain if we should be in time
to catch the ship in the Downs, we posted to Deal, took refuge at the
‘Three Kings,’ and had the satisfaction of watching the ‘Marchioness of
Ely,’ and the ‘Winchelsea’ her companion, as they bore down. At 11 P.M.
we went on board, and sailed the next day. There was such a glorious
confusion on deck, that those who were novices in military and naval
affairs might deem, as they gazed around, it could never subside into any
thing approaching order. Every one, however, was saying it would be very
different when the ship was at sea; of which, indeed, there was little
doubt, for to go on as we were would have been impossible. Off the Isle
of Wight the pilot left us to our captain’s guidance; the breeze was
favourable; we were sailing so smoothly, there was scarcely any motion.
The last farewell tears dropped as I passed the Needles and the coast of
Hampshire, whilst memory recalled the happy days I had spent there, and
in the Forest, the beautiful Forest!
Such thoughts and feelings it was necessary to throw aside. I joined the
party in the cuddy, scrutinized the strange faces, and retired to my
cabin, with as solitary a feeling as if my husband and I had been exiles
for ever.
The voyage began prosperously; I was satisfied with the captain, with my
cabin, with my servant, and happy with my lord and master.
We regretted we had taken our passage in a ship full of troops, and
anticipated we should be debarred taking exercise on the quarter-deck,
and enjoying ourselves with walk and talk during the fine moonlight
nights. In the ‘Ely’ it appeared as if it would be impossible; were you
to attempt it, you would be sure to blunder over some sleeping Lancer.
However, the band was on board—some small consolation; and as the society
was large, there was more chance of entertainment.
_July 1st._—Porto Santo looked beautiful, its head enveloped in clouds.
The rocky island rises boldly out of the sea; its mountains are very
picturesque. The sight of land and white châteaux was quite charming.
I now began to recover from the _maladie de mer_, and to regain my usual
good spirits. Creatures of habit, we soon grew accustomed to the small
space. The stem cabin, twelve feet by ten, at first sight appeared most
extremely inconvenient; but now it seemed to have enlarged itself, and
we were more comfortable. Still sleep would scarcely visit me, until a
swinging cot was procured. From that time I slept calmly and quietly,
whatever pranks the old ‘Ely’ might choose to play.
The comfort or discomfort of a voyage greatly depends upon your
fellow-passengers. In this respect we were most fortunate; one-half the
officers of the 16th Lancers were in the ‘Ely.’ The old 16th to me were
friends; my father, who had been many years in the regiment, was forced
to quit it, in consequence of a severe wound he received in action in the
Pays Bas, under the command of the Duke of York. My uncle had commanded
the gallant regiment in Spain, and other relatives had also been many
years with the regiment. Chance had thrown us amongst friends.
Perhaps no friendships are stronger than those formed on board ship,
where the tempers and dispositions are so much set forth in their true
colours.
_July 4th._—We passed the Isle of Palma; it looked beautiful, rising
abruptly from the sea; the trees appeared fine and numerous. We are in
the trade winds, going generally about eight knots an hour; the evenings
are delicious; little or no dew falls so far from land; in the evening we
sit on deck, and enjoy the breeze. The moon is reflected so beautifully
on the waves, the nights are so warm, the air so pure, the climate so
agreeable, I could willingly turn canary bird, and take up my residence
in this latitude.
Sometimes quadrilles are danced by the light of the moon; sometimes by
the glare of half-a-dozen lanterns. There is little or no motion in the
vessel; no events occur; yes—let me not forget—a little boy fell into
the pea-soup and got a ducking; luckily for him, it was nearly cold.
“The misfortunes of the stable fall on the head of the monkey[8].” The
deck presents a curious assemblage: Lancers at extension exercise, women
working, sailors hauling, children at school, ladies reading or talking
in groups—altogether an amusing scene.
On Sundays Divine service is performed; the psalms are sung in very
good style, accompanied by the Lancer band. The weather is hot; the
thermometer 79° in our cabin, 81° in the cuddy, which at dinner-time
contains six-and-thirty people. To-day a shark was caught; it was
attended by three pilot fish, which, they say, guide the shark to its
prey. These small fish are very pretty, and striped like zebras. The
shark was hooked and dragged up by the stern windows; he struggled
manfully, but was soon despatched.
A little flying-fish flew into one of the ports to escape the pursuit of
a larger fish; it was small and curious, but not so pretty as one would
imagine. Two large fins spread out on its sides, like wings. It was a
novelty to most of the passengers.
_July 22nd._—What a strange, bustling life! This is baggage-day; all the
trunks are on deck—such a confusion! I am suffering from _maladie de
mer_; the wind is contrary; we tack and veer most tiresomely; the ship
pitches; we cling about like cats, and are at our wits’ end, striving to
endure our miseries with patience.
The Bristol water is invaluable, the ship water very black, and it smells
vilely. I knew not before the value of good water; and, were it not for
the shower bath, should be apt to wish myself where Truth is—at the
bottom of a well.
Yesterday such a noise arose on deck, it brought me to the scene of
action in a minute: “Come here! come here! look! look! There they go,
like a pack of hounds in full cry!” I did come, and I did look; and there
were some hundred of skip-jacks leaping out of the water, and following
each other with great rapidity across the head of the ship. When many
fish leaped up together, there was such laughing, shouting, pointing, and
gazing, from four hundred full-grown people, it was absurd to see how
much amusement the poor fish occasioned. I looked alternately at the fish
and the people, and laughed at both.
A kind of rash teases me; in these latitudes they call it prickly heat,
vow you cannot be healthy without it, and affirm that every one ought to
be glad to have it. So am not I.
Having beaten about the line for a fortnight, with a contrary wind, at
length we entertained hopes of crossing it, and letters were received
on board from Neptune and Amphitrite, requesting to be supplied with
clothes, having lost their own in a gale of wind.
_July 30th._—Neptune and his lady came on board to acquaint the captain
they would visit him in form the next day. The captain wished the god
good night, when instantly the deck was deluged with showers of water
from the main-top, while a flaming tar-barrel was thrown overboard, in
which Neptune was supposed to have vanished in flame and water.
_July 31st._—At 9 A.M. the private soldiers who were not to be shaved
were stationed on the poop with their wives; on the quarter-deck
the officers and ladies awaited the arrival of the ocean-god.
First in procession marched the band, playing “God save the King;”
several grotesque figures followed; then came the car of Neptune—a
gun-carriage—with such a creature for a coachman! The carriage was drawn
by six half-naked seamen, painted to represent Tritons, who were chained
to the vehicle. We beheld the monarch and his bride, seated in the car,
with a lovely girl, whom he called his tender offspring. These ladies
were represented by the most brawny, muscular, ugly and powerful fellows
in the ship; the letters requesting female attire having procured an
abundance of finery. The boatswain’s mate, a powerful man, naked to the
waist, with a pasteboard crown upon his head and his speaking-trumpet in
his hand, who represented Neptune, descended from his car, and offered
the captain two fowls as tropical birds, and a salted fish on the end of
a trident, lamenting that the late boisterous weather had prevented his
bringing any fresh. A doctor, a barber with a notched razor, a sea-bear
and its keeper, closed the procession.
Re-ascending the car, they took their station in front of the poop, and
a rope was drawn across the deck to represent the line. Neptune then
summoned the colonel-commandant of the Lancers to his presence, who
informed him he had before entered his dominions. The major was then
conducted, by a fellow calling himself a constable, to the foot of the
car: he went up, expecting to be shaved, but the sea god desired him to
present his wife to Amphitrite. After the introduction they were both
dismissed.
My husband and myself were then summoned: he pleaded having crossed the
line before. Neptune said that would not avail, as his lady had entered
the small latitudes for the first time. After a laughable discussion,
of to be shaved or not to be shaved, we were allowed to retire. The
remainder of the passengers were summoned in turn. The sentence of
shaving was passed upon all who had not crossed the line, but not carried
into execution on the officers of the ship. The crew were shaved and
ducked in form, and in all good humour. In the mean time the fire-engine
drenched every body on deck, and the officers and passengers amused
themselves for hours throwing water over each other from buckets. Imagine
four hundred people ducking one another, and you may have some idea of
the frolic. In the evening the sailors danced, sang, recited verses,
and spliced the main brace[9], until very late, and the day ended as
jovially as it began. Several times they charmed us with an appropriate
song, roared at the utmost pitch of their stentorian lungs, to the tune
of “There’s na luck about the house.”
“We’ll lather away, and shave away,
And lather away so fine,
We always have a shaving day
Whenever we cross the line.”
With sorrow I confess to having forgotten the remainder of the ditty,
which ended—
“There’s nothing half so sweet in life
As crossing of the line.”
“Rule Britannia,” with a subscription for the ruler of the seas, was
the finale, leaving every one perfectly satisfied with his portion of
salt water. It was agreed the rites and ceremonies had never been better
performed or with greater good humour.
Colonel Luard’s beautiful and faithful sketches have since been presented
to the public. Watching his ready pencil, as it portrayed the passing
scene, was one of the pleasures of the ‘Ely;’ and I feel greatly obliged
to him for having given me permission to add copies of some of his
original sketches to my journal.
Neptune was accompanied on board by a flying-fish that came in at one
of the ports, perhaps to escape from an albicore: a lucky omen. The
gentlemen amuse themselves with firing at the albatross, as they fly
round and round the vessel; as yet, no damage has been done—the great
birds shake their thick plumage, and laugh at the shot.
The favourite game is pitch-and-toss for dollars. Boxing is another
method of spending time. Chess and backgammon-boards are in high request;
when the evenings are not calm enough for a quadrille or a waltz on
deck, the passengers retire to the cuddy, to whist or blind hookey, and
dollars are brought to table in cases that formerly contained Gamble’s
most excellent portable soup! On the very general introduction of
caoutchouc into every department of the arts and sciences, some of the
principal ship-builders proposed to form the keels of their vessels
of indian-rubber, but abandoned the project apprehending the _entire
effacement of the equinoctial line_.
_Aug. 1st._—Caught a bonito and a sea-scorpion; the latter was of a
beautiful purple colour, the under part white: also a nautilus and a blue
shark; in the latter were four-and-twenty young ones. The shark measured
seven feet; its young from twelve to fourteen inches. The colour of the
back was blue, of the belly white; several sucking-fish were upon the
monster, of which some were lost in hauling him on board: one of those
caught measured nine inches and a half; it stuck firmly to my hand in an
instant.
Our amusements concluded with viewing an eclipse of the moon.
A stiff gale split the mainsail and blew the foretop and mizentop sails
to pieces: no further damage was sustained. I enjoyed the sight of the
fine waves that tossed the vessel as if she were a cockle-shell.
We caught two Cape pigeons, very beautiful birds; the moment they were
brought on deck they suffered extremely from _maladie de mer_!
_Aug. 11th._—During Divine service we came in sight of San Trinidada and
Martin Vas Rocks; the former distant twelve miles, the latter thirty.
_Aug. 16th._—Lat. 27° S., long. 19° W.—The annexed lithograph is from an
original drawing of Colonel Luard’s, and the following extract from his
“Views in India:”—
“This drawing represents the numerous birds that constantly follow ships
from lat. 27° S. to lat. 40° S., constantly hovering about the ship, and
picking up anything eatable which may be thrown overboard. The pintado,
or Cape pigeon, a very pretty bird, black and white striped all over,
is the most numerous. They fly backwards and forwards across the ship’s
wake, in such numbers and so carelessly, that they are frequently caught
by entangling their wings in lines thrown over the stern of the ship to
catch the albatross. This immense bird is also portrayed in the drawing,
whose astonishing power, fierceness, and fleetness, render him formidable
amongst the feathered tribe of these regions. There is an instance on
record of a man having fallen overboard from a ship-of-war, when a
noble-minded midshipman instantly jumped overboard, and, from his power
as a swimmer, would probably have rescued the sailor from a watery grave,
had not an albatross passing at the moment stooped upon the generous
youth, and struck him upon the head: he sank to rise no more! Both he and
the sailor were drowned.”
[Illustration: S. LAT: 27°. W. LONG: 19°.
On Stone by Major Parlby. From an Original Drawing by Colˡ Luard.]
_Aug. 23rd._—There is a ship alongside! a ship bound for England! it
speaks of home and the beloved ones, and although I am as happy as
possible, my heart still turns to those who have heretofore been all and
everything to me, with a warmth of affection at once delightful and very
painful.
_Aug. 27th._—Lat. 32° 9′ S., long. 4° 25′ E.—A dead calm! give me any day
a storm and a half in preference! It was so miserable—a long heavy swell,
without a ripple on the waves; the ship rolled from side to side without
advancing one inch; she groaned in all her timbers: the old ‘Marchioness’
appeared to suffer and be as miserable as myself. The calm continued the
next day, and the rolling also; the captain kindly allowed the jolly-boat
to be lowered, in which some of the Lancers and my husband went out
shooting.
This day, the 28th of August, was the commencement of the shooting
season: game was in abundance, and they sought it over the long heavy
swell of the glasslike and unrippled sea. The sportsmen returned with
forty head of game: in this number was an albatross, measuring nine feet
from the tip of one wing to that of the other; a Cape hen, a sea-swallow,
with several pintado and other birds.
When the boat returned, it brought good fortune; the wind instantly
sprang up, and we went on our way rejoicing. This day a whale was seen at
a distance; if it had approached the vessel, a captain of the Lancers had
prepared a Congreve rocket for its acceptance.
_Sept. 1st._—We spoke a Dutchman off the Cape, looking in a very pitiable
condition: the same gale which had damaged her overtook us, and blew
heavily and disagreeably for three days. The weather was very cold and
wet, and we felt disappointed at not touching at the Cape.
_Sept. 10th._—Lat. 36° 43′ S., lon. 45° 30′ W., ther. 64°.—Another calm,
and another battue: the gentlemen returned from the watery plain with
great éclat, bringing seven albatross, thirty pintados, a Cape hen, and
two garnets. One of the albatross, which was stuffed for me, measured
fifty-three inches from head to tail, and nine feet ten inches across the
wings.
_Sept. 20th._—In the evening we passed St. Paul’s and Amsterdam, but
the haziness of the weather prevented our seeing them. This, the most
southerly point of our voyage, was also the coldest. The cold was really
painful.
_Sept. 23._—A _school_[10] of twenty or thirty whales passed near
the ship; it was almost a calm; they were constantly on the surface,
frolicking and spouting away. They were, the sailors said, of the
spermaceti order, which are smaller in size, and do not spout so high as
the larger race. I was disappointed. Two of the officers of the Lancers
rowed within ten yards of a large whale, and fired a Congreve rocket into
its body; the whale gave a spring and dived instantly. The rocket would
explode in a few seconds and kill him: a good prize for the first ship
that falls in with the floating carcase. They fired at another, but the
rocket exploded under water and came up smoking to the surface. The boat
returned safely to the ship, but it was rather a nervous affair.
_Sept. 25th._—Another calm allowed of more shooting, and great was the
slaughter of sea game. I must make an extract from Colonel Luard’s work,
speaking of a battle that took place on the 10th:—“The Cape hen was
a large fierce black bird, and only having its wing broken, tried to
bite every person’s legs in the boat. When she was placed on the ship’s
quarter-deck, a small terrier belonging to one of the officers attacked
her, and they fought for some time with uncertain advantage; the bloody
streams from the dog proving the severity of the bird’s bite: at last
the terrier seized his adversary by the throat, when the battle and the
bird’s life ended together. In lat. 4° 13′ S., long. 93° 11′ E., the
thermometer in the sun standing at 130°, and in the shade 97°, two small
birds, in every respect resembling the English swallow, came about the
ship. One of them was caught, and died; the other (probably in hopes of
rejoining its companion) remained with the ship fourteen or fifteen days,
frequently coming into the cabins and roosting there during the night. It
was at last missing; and, not being an aquatic bird, perhaps met a watery
death.”
During the time of the battue on the third day, three sharks were astern;
we caught one that had a young one by her side. When opened on deck, a
family of twenty-four were found, each about twelve or fourteen inches
long; the mother measured seven feet. The shark is said to swallow its
young when in peril, and to disgorge them when the danger has passed. The
curious birds and fish we see relieve the tedium of the voyage.
We now looked impatiently for the end of our passage, and counted the
days like schoolboys expecting their vacation. It was amusing to hear
the various plans the different people on board intended to pursue on
landing—all too English by far for the climate to which they were bound.
The birds were numerous south of the tropics; we saw few within them. The
flying-fish are never found beyond the tropics.
_Oct. 11th._—Lat. 4° 20′ S., long. 93° 11′ E.—The heat was very great;
the vertical sun poured down its sickening rays, the thermometer in the
shade of the coolest cabin 86°; not a breath of air; we felt severely the
sudden change of temperature. The sails flapped against the mast, and we
only made progress seventeen knots in the twenty-four hours! Thus passed
eleven days—the shower bath kept us alive, and our health was better than
when we quitted England. M. mon mari, who was studying Persian, began to
teach me Hindostanee, which afforded me much pleasure.
In spite of the calm there was gaiety on board; the band played
delightfully, our fellow-passengers were agreeable, and the calm evenings
allowed of quadrilles and waltzing on the deck, which was lighted up with
lanterns and decorated with flags.
We spoke the ‘Winchelsea,’ which had quitted the Downs seven days before
us and experienced heavy weather off the Cape: it was some consolation to
have been at sea a shorter time than our companion. But little sickness
was on board; a young private of the Lancers fell overboard, it was
supposed, during a squall, and was lost; he was not even missed until the
next day: a sick Lancer died, and a little child also; they were buried
at sea: the bill of health was uncommonly good. A burial at sea, when
first witnessed, is very solemn and impressive.
We passed an English ship—the Lancer band played “God save the King,”
the vessel answered with three cheers. It was painful to meet a
homeward-bound ship; it reminded me of home, country, and, dearer still,
of friends. The sailors have a superstition, that sharks always follow a
ship when a corpse is on board: the night after the man fell overboard,
the Lancer and the child died; the day they were buried three sharks were
astern. I thought of the sailors’ superstition; no sharks had been seen
alongside for three weeks. The sunsets on and near the line are truly
magnificent, nothing is more glorious—the nights are beautiful, no dew,
no breeze, the stars shining as they do on a frosty night at home, and
we are gasping for a breath of air! A sea-snake about a yard and a half
long was caught—many turtle were seen, but they sank the moment the boat
approached them. A subscription lottery was made; the person whose ticket
bears the date of our arrival at Saugor will win the amount.
_Oct. 22nd._—Becalmed for eighteen days! not as when off the Cape;
there it was cool, with a heavy swell, here there is no motion, the sun
vertical, not a breath of air, the heat excessive. At length a breeze
sprang up, and we began to move: one day during the calm we made seven
knots in the twenty-four hours, and those all the wrong way!
“Day after day, day after day,
We stuck, nor breath nor motion;
As idle as a painted ship
Upon a painted ocean.”
Our voyage advanced very slowly, and the supply of fresh water becoming
scanty, we were all put on short allowance; any thing but agreeable under
so hot a sun. Captain Kay determined to make the land, and water the
ship, and made signals to our companion, the ‘Winchelsea,’ to that effect.
_Oct. 30th._—To our great delight we arrived at, and anchored off,
Carnicobar, one of the Nicobar Islands, lat. 9° 10′ N., long. 92° 56′
E. Boats were immediately sent on shore to a small village, where the
landing was good, and two springs of delicious water were found for the
supply of the ship.