creeper is a little tall--about twelve inches--but may fit your
planting scheme. It has two-inch oval leaves and clusters of
lavender-blue flowers at daffodil time.
_douglasi_--alpine phlox--Three-inch Western native with
half-inch knife-like evergreen leaves and half-inch white or
pastel flowers (in June).
_rigida_--sandhill phlox--Western alpine, similar to
douglasi except for thinner, more sharply pointed leaves and
white flowers blending to blue and purple. The more acid the
soil, the deeper the colors.
_stolonifera_--creeping phlox--Partly or fully evergreen
creeper with four-inch stems, oval, hairy leaves, and full
clusters of light or dark lavender flowers in May and June.
_subulata_--ground moss, or mountain pink--In April and May
the six-inch mats of evergreen leaves are almost invisible under
the profuse cover of one-inch, fragrant flowers. They may be
purple, purplish-pink, or white, and some varieties are red or
blue.
CARE. Fertile soil, acid or alkaline according to the variety. Moist.
Most are hardy, again according to the variety.
PROPAGATION. Seeds (do not always come true), cuttings in July and
August, division of roots.
SPECIAL USES. Rock gardens, edging, ground cover.
=Primula= _Primulaceae_ Primrose Official “Sections,” by
common cultural requirements.
Auricula Section. _P. auricula_ and other European alpines and
their hybrids; usually evergreen; flower in early spring. Stony,
drained, rich loamy soil lightened by leaf mold and sand; will
stand more sun than most, but not hot midday sun; likes its
roots under stones; mulch with stone chips.
Candelabra Section from Asia. Flowers in tiers, one whorl above
another, open-faced; most tall with big leaves. Needs moist
soil, part shade. Flowers in late spring and early summer.
Disappear over winter.
Capitatae Section from the Himalayas. Biennial here, perennial
where snow covers all winter and on the West Coast. Flowers late
(July). Flat rosettes of delicately toothed leaves, twelve-inch
silver stems; flat silvery heads of slightly drooping flowers.
Disappears over winter.
Cortusoides Section from Asia. Woodsy-rich humusy soil.
Decorative leaves usually soft hairy. Flowers in spring.
Disappears over winter.
Denticulata Section. Small group from the Himalayas. Easy
perennial. Be careful about dampness in winter. Among the
earliest to flower in spring.
Farinosae Section. Huge group from many lands. Moisture,
drainage, part shade. Stand more sun if moist. Small bud,
usually white at surface, shows in winter.
Nivalis Section from Asia. Biennial here. Long narrow leaves.
Flowers in tiers closer than candelabra and more drooping.
Cool, rich, moist soil, part shade. Flowers in early spring;
disappears in winter.
Sikkimensis Section from Asia. Belled primulas, with hanging
heads of bell-shaped flowers. Biennial here; perennial in both
colder and warmer climates. Most tall with heads of fragrant
flowers held well above large toothed leaves. Flowers in late
spring; disappears in winter.
Vernales Section includes all the easiest-to-grow and best-known
primulas. Requires part shade, rich soil, moisture; should
never be completely dry. Evergreen. Includes: _P. vulgaris
(acaulis)_, single flower per stem; _P. polyantha_
with many varieties, and stalked umbrella of flowers above the
leaves; _P. juliae_ hybrids. Among _P. polyantha_
there are some dwarf hybrids (not miniature).
CARE. Some shade for hottest part of the day. Woodsy soil rich in
humus, neutral or slightly acid. Mulch with manure if possible, around
and between plants; don’t cover crown. Keep moist. Provide winter
protection of salt hay, evergreen boughs, or excelsior, which results
in gradual thawing of the ground around the plants in spring, and also
prevents premature blooming during unseasonably warm winter days.
Fertilize in spring, and in summer for next year’s flowers. No nitrogen
in summer fertilizer. Watch plants for signs of slugs and red spider.
Divide when plants get too crowded, preferably after flowering. Hearty
seeders.
PROPAGATION. Seeds when ripe (others must be frozen first and thawed),
division after flowering.
SPECIAL USES. Carpet under shrubs and under early-flowering trees.
Naturalize by streams and beside pools. Wall planting, rock gardens,
borders, wild gardens.
=Saxifraga= _Saxifragaceae_ Rockfoil
There are so many species and hybrids of this popular plant it is
difficult to know all of them. Generally, they are characterized by
flattish clusters of leaves around the crown, and airy sprays of
flowers on top of taller stems. But from this point the variations take
many forms and sizes. The leaves may be the size of a nickel or five
times that size; flowers may be minute, or large and open-faced; there
may be creeping stems or runners, or not.
For most gardeners it is not necessary to know how botanists classify
these plants. If you plan to delve deeply into rock gardening there are
a number of excellent books on rock plants, some of which are listed in
the appendix.
Following are a few of the better-known, and easier grown, saxifraga,
including several that have a place in flower borders and other garden
spots.
_aizoon_--Arctic native with rosettes of evergreen, stiff,
gray-blue leaves edged with a thin “crust” of limy deposit, and
purple-spotted white flowers on tall stems (in May or June).
There are a number of varieties, including yellow-flowering
lutea, pink rosea, and tiny baldensis with leaf clusters only a
quarter-inch across. (Drainage, moist, with northwest exposure.
Shade from noon sun; provide limy soil with leaf mold.
_cuscutaeformis_--Thick, hairy, roundish leaves tinged with
copper and marked with a network of white veins; spreads by
reddish runners that produce new plants at their tips.
_decipiens rosacea_--Mossy mats of finely cut leaves and
large cupped white flowers on six-inch stems (in May and June).
Drainage; gritty sandy soil with leaf mold and humus. Moist,
shade from sun. Also pink-and red-flowering varieties.
_sarmentosa_--strawberry begonia--Favorite pot and basket
plant, hardy in nearly every garden. Spreads by strawberry-like
runners with plantlets at the ends. Makes mats of round,
white-veined leaves and tall airy sprays of white or purplish
flowers in June. Requires shade, and moist acid soil.
_umbrosa_--London pride--Makes a carpet of three-inch-high
rosettes of leathery leaves; spires of pink flowers in early
summer. Needs moist, rich soil and shade or semishade. The
small-scale variety primuloides is daintier.
_virginiensis_--Slender, oval three-inch leaves in flat
clusters, green tinged, but bronze in the fall; small white
flowers on ten-inch stems in May. Native of our Northeast. Nice
in wild gardens.
CARE. Soil varies with the species (lime for the encrusted ones, which
also tolerate more sun). Semishade, moist, but perfect drainage. A hot
dry climate is bad for the alpines. Mossy varieties need heavier shade,
richer soil, and are best moist.
PROPAGATION. Divisions of sets, cuttings, seeds (most varieties).
SPECIAL USES. Baskets, pots, dry-wall planting, containers, borders.
=Silene= _Caryophyllaceae_ Campion, Catchfly
The perennials of this genus include some of our most colorful native
plants (the flaming fire pink _S. virginica_, for example), all
related to the garden pinks but each one having its own characteristics.
_acaulis_--cushion pink, moss campion--Dainty two-inch
mossy tufts of needle-like leaves slowly increasing to clumps
and having half-inch purple-red flowers all summer. (Provide
gritty, limed soil.)
_caroliniana (pennsylvanica)_--wild pink--Sticky-fuzzy
plant with slim four-inch evergreen leaves and pink flowers on
six-inch stems (April-June). Native to Northeastern woods. Good
in rocky spots. Has deep taproot so handle with care. Dig deep
when dormant.
_maritima_--Sea campion--Slim, gray-blue leaves on trailing
stems, making a mat four inches high with clusters of white
flowers in June.
_saxifraga_--Tufts of knife-shaped leaves under summer
flowers which are white inside, tinted green or red outside, on
six-inch stems.
_schafta_--moss campion--Spreading mounds of silky-hairy
leaves covered in August with rose or purple flowers on six-inch
stems.
CARE. Good soil, gritty for some varieties with lime for some.
Top-dress yearly with mixture of soil and cow manure. Drainage.
PROPAGATION. Seeds, division, cuttings (of young growth).
SPECIAL USES. Rock planting, borders, walls, wild gardens.
=Thymus= _Labiatae_ Thyme
These are actually tiny shrubs with tangling, woody stems and masses
of little leaves that are evergreen in all but the coldest and most
exposed locations. Some creep flatly; some make three-inch mounds.
You can choose from varying fragrances, leaf textures and colors, and
colors of early summer flowers. In fact, there is a much wider variety
available than most gardeners realize.
_herba-barona_--caraway thyme--Ground-hugging creeper
with fresh green caraway-scented leaves, and tight clusters
of rose-purple flowers. It does not seed and is propagated by
division of roots. Hardy.
_lanicaulis_--Four-inch carpet with half-inch leaves slim
as needles at the base and broadening higher on the short stems.
Stems feature a woolly coat of hairs as long as they are thick.
Tight clover-like flowers are rosy pink.
_nitidus_--French thyme--Six-to eight-inch shrub with
shiny, oval, gray-green leaves, and lavender flowers. Older
clumps resent being disturbed, so start young plants from
cuttings.
_serpyllum_--mother-of-thyme, creeping thyme--Perennially
popular stem-rooting creeper, less than four inches high with
half-inch oval green leaves and purple flowers loved by bees.
There are many varieties: white-flowered albus, silver-marked
argenteus, gold variegated aureus, larger, red-flowering
coccineus, bright-pink roseus, robust, romping, red-flowering
splendens. Almost in a class by themselves--and often
listed as separate species--are lanuguinosus, woolly thyme
(completely covered with silvery fuzz), and the variety vulgaris
(citriodorus), lemon thyme with citrus-scented leaves.
_vulgaris_--common thyme--Kitchen herb, spreads by
underground stems. The erect stalks are covered with fine white
hair and set with half-inch oval leaves; there are deep-lilac
flowers in May and June. It spreads so fast it has been accused
of being a weed.
CARE. Ordinary soil, or rich and sandy loam (gritty for some plants).
Drainage. Fairly sunny. Protect lightly where winters are severe.
PROPAGATION. Division, layers in spring, cuttings in early summer,
seeds (not all varieties have seed, and seeds do not always come true).
SPECIAL USES. Pavements (plants not damaged), border planting, herb
gardens, ground cover, edging, dry-wall planting, cover for bulbs.
=Veronica= _Scrophulariaceae_ Speedwell
Most of the smaller veronicas are matmakers; some are clumpy, and a few
are even woody or shrub-like. Also there is a fairly wide variation in
the foliage. But the flowers are always arranged in spires; a few are
white, purple, or pinkish, but mainly there is a wide choice of true
blues from baby blue to royal blue. Here are a few varieties:
_allioni_--Carpet of little leathery leaves, violet flowers
in July.
_armena_--Ferny, furry tufts of finely cut leaves on
trailing stems, five-inch spikes of vivid blue flowers (from May
to July). Provide drainage, filtered sun, or half shade.
_filiformis_--An idiosyncratic creeper that delights some
gardeners and drives others crazy. It has been described as
“pernicious” and a weed. Actually it’s rather pretty, with small
rounded leaves and galaxies of starry-blue flowers in late
spring. Grows in either sun or light shade.
_fruticans (saxatilis)_--Woody stems tightly clothed in
dark evergreen leaves making a shrubby plant under six inches.
In June and July sapphire flowers open their eyes with pinkish
lids.
_fruticulosa_--Shrubby and semi-evergreen, about four
inches high with half-inch leaves and pinkish-blue flowers in
June.
_gentianoides_--This species has clusters of gleaming
leaves close to the ground. And in June the flowers are very
large, a luscious Wedgwood blue. But there are alarming reports
that it has topped twenty inches in height. To play safe, try
the miniature version nana, which has the same characteristics
but is much less than half that high.
_repens_--This is a precious pet, a massy creeper with
tiny teardrop leaves. It sparkles in May or June with baby-blue
flowers. It is all of two inches tall at maturity.
_spicata nana_--The midget reproduction of the better-known
species, slowly swelling to low, leafy clumps and topped
with three-inch spikes of blue-purple flowers in July. A
white-flowering form has smaller leaves but taller flower stems.
CARE. Any good soil. Moist but with drainage. Sun or light shade
depending on the variety (see notations in plant descriptions). Cut
back faded flowers. Trailers start best if plants were grown in pots.
Divide occasionally.
PROPAGATION. Seeds in spring, division in fall or spring, cuttings
early in the summer.
SPECIAL USES. Rock gardens, ground cover, dry-wall planting, pavements,
steps, stepping stones.
=Viola= _Violaceae_ Viola, Violet
Thanks to the viola, gardens of all sorts are richer and more pleasant
places in which to work, visit, or spend a pleasant afternoon. Here are
some of the viola’s gifts to gardening:
_cornuta_--Tufted pansies.
_odorata_--sweet violets--Fragrant violets, once strictly a
specialty of florist shops but now widely grown in home gardens.
_rosina_--Pink flowers with intense fragrance.
_semperflorens_--Mats of fresh green leaves with purple
flowers that last much of the summer.
_tricolor_--Commonly known as Johnny-jump-up, an
all-summer-long bloomer with small purple and gold flowers.
_tricolor hortensis_--Pansies which grow in many colors and
color combinations.
CARE. Rich garden soil, partial shade, moisture, light winter
protection.
PROPAGATION. Seeds (sown in flats and exposed to freezing weather over
winter for spring germination), division, layering of runners of those
varieties that produce them.
SPECIAL USES. Cut flowers, beds, edging, rock gardens.
_CHAPTER 16_
MINIATURE ANNUALS
Even if every inch of our gardens were permanently planted, I’d
probably still start some annuals every spring. In those depressing,
letdown weeks of January after the holidays nothing brightens my life
like leafing through the new seed catalogues. In the dark days of March
when late-winter blusters snarl at spring and threaten to hold it off
forever, my perky indoor seedlings tell me that it is just around a
bend in the road. My traditional birthday treat, in early June, is a
day all my own when I get my favorite flower beds ready for the summer.
I absolutely refuse to fry an egg, wash a dish, or lift a dustcloth.
Before dark on that wonderful day I see that every seedling is planted
in moist warm soil.
Actually, I can’t imagine our grounds being so completely planted
that there isn’t a place for at least a few annuals--no bare spots in
the perennial border, no shrub or tree around which to set flowering
clumps, no window boxes or planters in need of decoration. And if ever
there is a spring when I don’t ask my husband to spade up “just one
more spot” for a few more annuals, I’ll eat my garden gloves finger by
finger.
Because they cost so little, and because they last only one season,
you can plant annuals with careless abandon. You can experiment with
bizarre color schemes. If they don’t work out, try something different
next year. If you are saving a special spot for a special shrub or
bush, and you feel it is too expensive for the moment, or you can’t
find a specimen that is exactly what you want, let annuals fill in
until you have that particular plant. If you are creating a new garden
and are not quite sure of the design, test it with annuals before you
make it permanent.
As with the miniature perennials, the annuals included here have been
selected not only because they are small, but also because they are
in suitably modest scale for use in miniature gardens of many sorts.
Descriptions of the varieties should be helpful in selecting the truly
miniature annuals at local nurseries and garden centers. Seeds are
available from various mail-order suppliers listed in the Appendix.
Like all other garden plants, miniature annuals should be selected
according to such cultural conditions as the amount of moisture and
sunlight and the type of soil. If these requirements are not clearly
stated on the seed packets or in the seed catalogue from which you
ordered, check for details in a good reference book rather than risk
disappointing failure.
GROWING ANNUALS FROM SEED
When and where you sow seeds of annuals depends on whether the
particular varieties grow best in coolness or warmth, and how long the
growing season has to be for maturity and flowering. This is the basis
of catalogue listings that classify annuals as hardy, half-hardy, or
tender. Hardy annuals germinate best when air and soil are cool and
make their best growth before hot weather sets in. Seeds are sometimes
sown out of doors in autumn to germinate in early spring, or they may
be sown in the garden the moment the frost is out of the ground.
Half-hardy seeds are planted outdoors where the plants are to grow,
or you can give them a head start either indoors or in a hotbed or a
cold frame. Plant about six weeks before the time to set them outdoors.
Tender perennials grown in cold areas as annuals follow the same
schedule.
Seeds of tender annuals should not be planted outdoors until all danger
of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up considerably. But many
tender varieties, like petunias, are slow-growing and need plenty of
time to reach flowering size. These should be started indoors no later
than March.
Unless you have a greenhouse or hotbed, it’s risky to start seeds
too early indoors. Poor light and high temperatures will cause the
seedlings to grow limp and leggy and often to topple over toward the
source of the light. At transplanting time they may be so weak they
will be slow getting established; thus, little time is saved after all.
But you can save several weeks by starting seeds early in a sunny
window (just not too early), and you can start them even earlier in
a cool greenhouse, a hotbed, or a cold frame. When we lived on Long
Island we rigged up a workable substitute outside a cellar window by
using discarded storm windows. In fact, since it had a brick foundation
that reached below the frost line and had a heating coil in the soil,
we grew many cool greenhouse plants in it during the winter. The open
cellar window provided enough heat for flats of annual seedlings we
propagated in it in the spring. Once these seedlings were transplanted
to the garden, we dismantled our temporary greenhouse, filled the
spot with topsoil, and made a flower bed. I’ve seen several small
greenhouses like the one we improvised on sale commercially, one, of
metal and glass, selling for less than ten dollars.
[Illustration: Improvised greenhouse costing $00.00 which saved
author, shown in photograph, at least a hundred dollars per annum
in the cost of annuals]
[Illustration: Greenhouse construction diagram]
Indoors or out, seeds germinate best in clean, sifted soil that is
light and porous and drains perfectly. Add organic matter such as
peat or humus to help hold moisture, and sand to aerate and insure
drainage. If possible, sterilize the soil with heat or one of the
special fungicides, to prevent “damp-off.” Plant seeds only to the
depth of their diameter, and don’t cover dust-fine seeds at all.
Keep the soil moist during the germination period and for some weeks
afterward.
For several years we’ve transplanted seedlings directly into peat pots
as soon as they have their first few leaves. This is a tedious job, but
how it saves backache and heartache later. Indoors you can transplant
while seated comfortably at a table or bench, and while listening to
soft music on the radio. When the seedlings have flourished in the peat
pots and it is time to put them outdoors, there is much less time spent
bent double on one’s knees. And since the roots aren’t disturbed, the
plants seldom suffer from transplanting shock and seldom fail to thrive.
Plants grown indoors should be hardened before they’re put out of doors
for good. Every day expose them to fresh outdoor air for an increasing
length of time, until they are accustomed to the cooler temperatures,
particularly at night.
SUMMER CARE
Annuals take the same kind of care you give perennials, except
that most of them require less of it. Few need, or even thrive in,
especially fertile soil. Fertilize lightly, if at all. Many annuals get
along with less moisture and mulching than perennials. And of course,
none need be prepared for winter. During their one big season, simply
pinch or prune those that grow straggly, and remove fading flowers
before they set seeds. That usually prolongs the blooming season. After
frost strikes, burn the dead tops, which helps control the spread of
insects and disease.
As you study miniatures you will realize how many of the old regular
annuals of the garden, plants that usually top two or three feet,
can also be had in five-to eight-inch sizes. You have but to look
through your seed catalogues. The tiny ones are usually listed at the
end of each category, though in the affections of miniature-lovers
they should come first and take precedence over the “new giant-size,”
“bigger-than-ever” varieties.
In searching for miniatures I’ve culled through my large collection
of catalogues from Burpee to Vaughn and have compiled a list of small
annuals I have either grown, or expect to grow the coming season. Not
all of them are compact versions of their larger relatives. Many by
nature are on the diminutive side. So many of them are old friends,
let’s call them by their first names--the ones by which they are listed
in most seed booklets. The plants I have in mind are mostly eight
inches in height or less, though some of the longer-stemmed charmers
may slip in simply because they are too lovely to be left out. We’ll
give colors for those who have color schemes in mind for their gardens.
=Ageratum=
This annual, a great garden favorite, is also known as the floss
flower. In general it is a profuse bloomer that is fine for borders,
edgings, rock gardens, small flower beds, and even as a house plant.
It comes in several colors but usually in the same sizes, two to six
inches.
‘Blue Ball’--This name is especially descriptive. The plants
shape up as round as a ball and then cover themselves with
dark-blue flowers. Who can expect more of one so small?
‘Blue Mink’--My friends who write seed catalogues, and so see
many beautiful plants, rave about this one as being true blue,
the real ageratum color. Its blooms, pretty as they are, grow
surprisingly large for a bush so small.
‘Imperial White Dwarf’--For its contrast I love this one, a
pattern of white surrounded by the blues, pinks, and reds of
other annuals.
‘Midget Blue’--This is my real pet, a really tiny one of uniform
shape, never over three inches tall and with the most delicate
blue ageratum flowers.
=Alyssum (Sweet)=
This is just about the nicest thing that can happen to your garden
be it annual, miniature, or otherwise. Although some members of this
family may reach twelve inches, most of them run from three to five
inches.
‘Carpet of Snow’--Much like ‘Royal Carpet’ for spreading, but
has white flowers instead of purple.
‘Little Gem’--This one is about six inches tall, but atones for
its height by being a more profuse bloomer, with small white
flowers.
‘Pink Heather’--The blooms open in a delicate pink and slowly
darken. It has vigor and scent, and seems to want to bloom
constantly.