sale of our New Testaments was known to every body, and thus afforded a
subject of conversation in which we could all take a part. Of course I
had also something to say upon this subject, as it was well known that
I was the seller of them. Two copies were on board, one of which had
been purchased by the captain of our canoe, and the other by one of the
passengers. I have already told you of the evangelical aspect of the
streets of Guayaquil, and the same aspect at times was exhibited on
board, both of the New Testaments being frequently in use at the same
time. During the many things that were said, arising from what was read,
(the reading being frequently aloud,) a conversation took place, the
relation of which will probably interest you, and more especially as it
affords a specimen of the progress of _thinking_ upon religious subjects
in this country. The subject was a delicate one, but so much the better,
as a specimen. The worship of saints was the matter treated of, though I
do not remember what gave rise to it. I stated my views upon the subject,
appealing to the Scriptures and to common sense in support of my opinion.
A very keen and interesting conversation immediately took place, in which
four, besides myself, took a part, and you will be surprised when I tell
you that three of the four took my side of the question. The one who was
opposed to us happened to be a stout disputant, and thus gave occasion to
a thorough discussion of the matter. Among other things brought forward
to show the incongruity and sinfulness of the worshipping of saints, I
stated that the Apostle Peter himself, (who according to them is the
prince of Apostles and saints,) refused this worship, and in proof of
this, I referred him to the tenth chapter of the Acts. This passage was
turned up and read by one of the company, and it appeared to all of us,
except one, conclusive upon the subject. Our opponent, however, defended
himself, by alleging that although Peter, upon that occasion, refused
worship, he refused it because he was not glorified, but that after
death things were otherwise.—You agree then, I remarked, that worship
is not to be given to the saints when upon earth, but it is lawful, you
say, to give this worship to them after their death. Let us then go to
another passage, I said, and see who of the inhabitants of heaven are to
be worshipped. I then referred to the last chapter of the Revelation,
namely, “When I had heard and seen, I fell down before the feet of the
angel who showed me these things. Then saith he unto me, See thou do it
not, for I am thy fellow servant, and of thy brethren the prophets, and
of them who keep the sayings of this book: _Worship God_.” This passage
cut off the refuge which our friend had taken in his distinction between
worshipping a saint on earth, and a saint in heaven. He then took refuge
in _the church_, alleging that since authority had been given to it by
Jesus Christ to order and direct the concerns of his kingdom after his
ascension, it was our duty to obey its orders, and one of these orders
was, the praying to the saints. You know, of course, how _I_ would have
got rid of this objection, that is, by sweeping away this authority of
the church altogether, and I stated this to be my opinion. The captain
of our canoe, who took a large share in the conversation, and who saw in
the church an authority to which he considered himself bound to submit,
assailed our opponent by another argument, and a very effectual one. He
came close up to him, and with an air of having something in his mind
worth saying, “Is it not,” said he, “the duty of children to reverence
their parents, and to obey them readily and constantly?”—“Certainly it
is,” replied his friend. Our Captain continued: “And if a parent should
tell his child to steal, to lie, and such like things, should the child
obey?”—“Certainly not,” was the reply. “You are right,” says the Captain,
“and that is just our case with the church. It is our duty to obey it, as
it is our duty to obey our parents, but if our parents or the church bid
us do what is obviously wrong, in that case it is our duty to _disobey_.”
You see what an excellent argument this was, and it completely silenced
the other, and left him without any thing to say upon the subject, except
mere general talk and repetition. Our Captain having gained this triumph,
turned to one of the four, who seemed rather to acquiesce in the strength
of our arguments from the Scripture, than zealously to defend our side,
and put this question to him. “Can you tell me,” said he, “why the priest
reads all the service and prays in Latin, a language of which I do not
understand a word, and thus leaving me, when in church, as a mere statue,
without knowing what I am saying or doing?” This was a hard question, and
it was answered significantly, but without words. Our Captain next comes
up to me, and says, “You see every one sets up his little machine to gain
his dollar.” I thought I understood his meaning, although couched under a
figure, but as I wished it to be well understood by all, I asked him what
he meant by it. After a short delay he answered me, by stating, that the
church and the priests had made various laws and ceremonies for their own
benefit, and that they might thus put a dollar into their pocket.—Various
other things were said, and among which the New Testament was praised as
a book any one might read and understand, and not like the prayers of
the priests, which no one understood, perhaps not themselves. One of the
four alluded to, towards the end of the conversation, said, in a very
distinct voice, and in the hearing of all, “If I were going to die, this
is my faith; I believe that there is one God who made all things, and
that there is one Redeemer who died for us, and who rose again; and as
to the worshipping of saints, and all the rest of it, I know nothing.” I
should not omit an observation of one of our female passengers. When two
of us were debating about the worship of saints, she observed to me that
she did not like such conversation. Why so, I replied. Because, said she,
if saints are not to be worshipped, then it will follow that we are not
to pray to the Virgin Mary neither. I said, in reply, that I thought her
reasoning worth being heard, as it was a fair deduction, and requested
her to put it in the form of a question, to the one of the four who
appeared the coolest, and who, as I said before, rather acquiesced in the
strength of our arguments than defended our side. As soon as silence was
obtained, the question was put, and the answer returned was just what I
would have said if called upon to reply.
You will see in the whole of this conversation a freedom of thinking and
of speaking, which you probably did not expect, and I confess that I was
myself greatly surprised at it, notwithstanding the many opportunities I
have had of observing the sentiments of the people of this quarter. In
the higher and more enlightened classes of society, I have often met with
liberal sentiments, but as the two persons who took the chief part in the
above conversation were of the lower class, it was both new to me and
interesting.
On our arrival at Babahoyo, I found lodgings difficult to be procured,
as the houses seemed all occupied. As soon as this was known to one of
my fellow-passengers, he took me to his father’s house, where I enjoyed
comfortable bed and board, kindly bestowed and free of expense, during
the two days I remained in that town. As I intended to make no stay in
this place, but push on, I gave no public intimation regarding the sale
of New Testaments; yet, through means of my fellow-passengers it came
to be known that I had these for sale, and in consequence I disposed of
fifty-one copies for which I received fifty dollars, one copy being a
present. I may mention, before leaving this place, that it lies very
low on the banks of the river, and is overflowed in the rainy season.
The church stands upon a spot elevated some feet above the surrounding
parts; and I am told it is common for the people in that season to go up
to the church door in their canoes. The usual practice in passing from
Babahoyo to Quito, is to hire mules at the former place to Guaranda, and
again to hire anew from that to Quito. I accordingly hired mules for this
place, which cost me five dollars each, on account of the badness of
the roads, though four dollars is the usual charge. The weather at the
present time is very unfavourable, and it is singular to see it so at
this season of the year. I had counted upon fair weather in this quarter
during the whole time of my journey, according to the information which I
had obtained in Lima, and am thus less prepared for rain than otherwise
I would have been had I expected it. I may add also, that I like rain
now worse than ever, as during these two years past I have not seen any.
From Babahoyo to the base of the mountains the roads were very deep and
bad. When we began to ascend the mountains, we found ourselves still
worse situated. The very steep ascent, and the clayey slippery roads,
rendered the journey very unpleasant, and not a little dangerous from
the slipping of the mules, which were frequently brought down upon their
knees. I shall not detain you for the present with a minute account of
the journey to this place, suffice it to say, that I arrived, here, the
day before yesterday in the afternoon in perfect health and safety; and
I feel, I assure you, upon looking back upon the road over which I have
passed, a new motive for thanksgiving to the Father of mercies for my
daily and hourly preservation. I shall just farther add, as descriptive
of the mountains, that on the first day of our ascent, the barometer in
the valley, in the morning, stood at 29.950, and where we lodged in the
evening it stood at 26.141, which indicates a great rise. Where we lodged
on the evening following it stood at 22.085. On the next day we passed
the highest part of the ancient Indian road, where the barometer stood at
21.322.
The situation of Guaranda, from which I now write you, is about ten miles
S. W. of the great Chimborazo. This king of mountains raises its majestic
hoary head full in view. It is deeply covered from the top, almost to
the base, with everlasting snow—snow which must have fallen, if not in
the days of Adam, at least in the days of Noah. To-morrow I set off for
Riobamba, when I expect to have a fuller view of it, as the road passes
along it close to the skirts of its snowy mantle. Guaranda contains about
1500 inhabitants, mostly Indians, who all speak the ancient Peruvian
language. There are several little towns in the glens within the
district, containing in all 14,000 inhabitants, and who all speak the
same language. You will recollect that this is the language into which
the New Testament has lately been translated in Lima, as mentioned in
my former letters, and you will see here a still more ample field of
usefulness for this translation, and the more so, when I add, that not
only in this district is the language spoken, but also in all the towns
in this quarter as far as Quito. What a wonderful extent and uniformity
must the ancient Peruvian empire have had. The inhabitants of this town
and the Indians of Peru have exactly the same features and countenance,
at well as language.
* * * * *
_Riobamba, 31st October, 1824._
Soon after my arrival in the town of Guaranda, I called upon the
Governor, and made known to him the object of my journey in this
quarter. I found him a man of intelligence, and a friend of the British
and Foreign Bible Society. Observing him to be a person worthy of all
confidence, and very desirous of the instruction of his countrymen, I
made known to him, without reserve, the plans and operations of the Bible
Society, and that I was travelling to forward its sacred object. He was
much pleased with the brief view of the Society which I gave him. He
wished to see the New Testaments, and became the first purchaser himself.
He also called upon those around to buy for themselves, by telling them
to come and learn to be Christians from this book. I received many
friendly attentions from him during the two days I remained in that
place, and I think we formed a kind of friendship which may contribute to
forward the objects of the Society in that quarter on future occasions.
Notwithstanding my printed notices, and the encouragement of the
Governor, I sold but a very few copies in that place, the whole number
being thirteen. One cause of there being so few sold is, that almost all
the inhabitants are Indians, and do not understand the Spanish language,
at all events cannot read it. To which may be added the general apathy
which always exists in small towns. The few copies, however, which have
been circulated in that town, will form a beginning (I may say of an
era) in that place, and will create a desire for more, both there and in
the villages around, when, on a future occasion, some pilgrim from your
Society shall climb the Andes to visit their abode.
On the 29th I left Guaranda on my way to this town. You will see by
the map, that in visiting Riobamba, I was going out of the straight
road to Quito, but I was anxious to visit this place, if peradventure
the Lord would incline the hearts of some here, as in other places to
receive the word of God; and, generally speaking, my wish is to pave
the way for future operations, as well as to drop a few seeds whilst so
doing, and thus to be a pioneer in your service, in the service of this
people, and, I trust, in the service of God. I told you that Guaranda,
and the villages around it, lay upon the Andes; they are not, however,
at the top, but lie on the western side or declivity of the great ridge,
or Cordillera. After leaving Guaranda, there is nearly a whole day’s
climbing before you reach the top. Upon reaching the highest parts of
the ridge, you have something like a plain, though of no great extent;
and out of this plain, or rather this mountain, and from your very feet,
rises the great Chimborazo. From Guaranda we turned our faces towards
this great mountain, and began to ascend. As we approached it, it began
to frown, and to forbid our drawing nearer. The rain, in a little time,
began to fall very heavily; we pushed on; the hail succeeded, accompanied
by vivid lightning, whose rapid flight, from our elevated situation, we
could trace from heaven to earth. To crown the whole, the loud thunder
rolled along as if Chimborazo were tumbling down upon us. To pursue our
journey, under such circumstances, would have been foolish, and perhaps
fatal. We accordingly turned our backs upon the mountain, and began to
descend, and to seek refuge in the first hut we could come to. After some
little time we descried a thatched cottage, but we could not reach it, as
the descent to it from the ridge, along which the road lay, was too rapid
for our mules. Another and another we had to pass in this way, without
being able to take shelter from the storm. We at length found a house to
which we could descend, and I rode on towards it, and made inquiry if
we could be lodged there. I received an answer in bad Spanish, saying,
they did not understand what I said. I was obliged, therefore, to wait
till the guide arrived, who understood the Indian language, and upon his
putting the same question which I had put, we obtained refuge from the
storm, and found, in our circumstances, the cottage converted into a
palace.
I thus found myself in a cottage belonging to one of the indigenous
inhabitants of the country, and had thus an opportunity of learning
some things which could not have been so well learned in any other
situation. I found that the inhabitants of this hut understood only their
native language; and learned that this was the case with all the rural
inhabitants of these quarters. The language spoken is that of Peru, into
which, through your beneficence, the New Testament has been translated,
and part of which will soon be printed. The need of having the word of
God translated into this language, is thus rendered more evident, and we
see the field to be watered by it increased.
Towards the evening the sky cleared up, and as the sun was setting, the
aspect around became beautiful. I stepped to a little distance from the
cottage, and reached the road on the ridge which we had left some hours
before. As I walked backwards and forwards in this spot, enjoying the
serene and peaceful evening, I felt gratitude rise in my heart to the
Father of mercies, for my protection and shelter from the storm. I had
just gone over that beautiful hymn, of which the first and last verses
follow:
“When all thy mercies, O my God,
My rising soul surveys;
Transported with the view, I’m lost,
In wonder, love, and praise.
“Through all eternity to Thee
A joyful song I’ll raise;
For, oh, eternity’s too short
To utter all thy praise.”
I had just repeated this companion of my travels, and was beginning to
descend to the cottage, when I observed a person coming up, mounted on
a very good horse, and leading another still better. I wondered to see
him bend his course to the uninhabited mountains at such a late hour,
and had the curiosity to wait his approach, to make inquiry. “Pray
friend,” said I, “where can you be going this way at so late an hour?”—“I
am seeking you,” was the reply.—“Seeking me!” I replied. “Yes,” said
he, “I have a letter for you from the Governor of Guaranda.” I received
and opened the letter, and read, in the language of friendship, that my
good friend, dreading that I should be worsted by the storm, had sent an
excellent horse for me, with orders to his servant to travel on until
he should find me, at whatever hour it might be, and to see me safe in
Riobamba. Whatever might have been my feelings before, they were, at
least, now “lost in wonder, love, and praise.” I should have mentioned,
also, that the servant delivered me a little basket, which I found to be
filled with provisions for our journey, and into which, also, the hand of
friendship itself had dropped a few sweet cakes. All these things, under
the circumstances in which I found myself, had a powerful effect upon
my mind, and encouraged me anew to hope in God and to persevere in his
service.
In a few minutes we stepped down to the hut, procured some provisions
for the horses, some repast for ourselves, and passed the night as
comfortably as we could. Early next morning we began to prepare for our
journey. I had given our hostess a rial now and a rial then to give
her confidence in my honesty; for there is some distrust in regard to
provisions bestowed upon strangers, and it is founded, I believe, on
experience. Before setting out, I paid her all her demands, and gave her
a little more; upon which she lifted up both her hands, and prayed for
a blessing upon me, and thus we parted. After travelling for some time,
Chimborazo looked out from the clouds, the first appearance of which, I
confess, filled me with a kind of dread, more especially as I thought
it frowned upon us again. As we went on, however, the day brightened,
and we reached the mountain in due time, and took up our lodging in an
uninhabited house on the side of it. During my evening walk the clouds
entirely disappeared from the mountain, and it seemed to sit down in
beautiful splendour beside me, and thus we became more than reconciled to
each other. Next morning the same beautiful appearance was exhibited as
we set out on our way to Riobamba.
At mid day we reached this place, which contains about 3000 inhabitants,
with a considerable population in the villages around. I called upon
the Governor, and presented him a letter of introduction which I had
brought from the Governor of Guaranda. In this gentleman I also found
a friend, and an encourager of our object. He directed me to the house
of a friend, where I have a comfortable lodging. Upon stating to him
my object, and showing him the advertisement which I wished to fix up
in the public parts of the town, he ordered his clerk to fill up the
blanks according to my directions, and then sent one of the Alguazils to
put them up. He bought six New Testaments himself, and during the two
days of my stay here, I have disposed of 35 copies. To-morrow I set out
for Ambato, accompanied by a soldier, which the Governor has ordered to
attend me by way of a guide and a guard. Considering the shortness of my
stay here, and considering that many more New Testaments would have been
bought had time been afforded, I thought it advisable to leave 50 copies
in the hands of the Governor, who kindly undertook to dispose of them as
circumstances offered. For the same reason I left 50 copies with him to
be forwarded by the first opportunity to the Governor of Guaranda. I have
also had another object in view in doing so, and that is to convert, as
it were, these individuals into members and agents of your Society, the
importance of which you will at once see.
I have already noticed to you that the rural inhabitants of the district
of Guaranda speak the Indian language only. The same also may be said of
all the districts in this quarter, as far as Quito, I formerly stated to
you, that in Peru a million of souls stood in need of the translation
of the Scriptures into the Quichua language, and you now see how many
thousands more may be added to this number. I have no doubt but the
importance of the translation in question will lead you to extend your
beneficence to the translating and printing of the whole Scriptures into
this language. When I find persons, particularly clergymen, with whom
I can communicate with confidence, I state to them what has been done
in regard to this translation, and the use that may be made of it in
instructing the indigenous inhabitants of this quarter, which is by far
the most numerous class of the population. To such individuals I mention,
also, the happy effects produced by the schools in the Gaelic and Irish
languages. I have succeeded in convincing many of the importance and
practicability of educating the native population, and am much encouraged
by the interest I find taken in this matter, by many persons of name and
influence in the places I have visited. In this town, the prior of one of
the convents, and the rector of the town, have promised to forward this
object as far as lies in their power, and on my part I have promised to
forward them some copies of this translation as soon us they are ready.
On the whole, there is great cause for thanksgiving, in seeing the
Scriptures meet with so ready a reception in this quarter, and the more
so when we consider that this is the first time this treasure has been
offered them. Let us pray that the word of God may have free course in
this place, and that it may be glorified.
* * * * *
_Quito, 8th November, 1824._
Through the tender mercies of the Lord I arrived in this city yesterday
morning in health and safety. The same gracious hand who has guided me
hitherto has provided for me a lodging in this place, in the house of
the Marquis de San José, where I enjoy all the comforts that kindness
and plenty can bestow. My last letter to you was dated the 31st ultimo,
from Riobamba, and detailed the various circumstances that occurred in my
journey from Guayaquil to that place. It now remains for me, therefore,
to state the particulars of my journey from Riobamba until my arrival in
this city.
Early on the morning of the 1st current, I set out for Ambato, and
arrived there safely in the afternoon. Ambato is a larger town than
Riobamba, and may contain 5000 people. In this place I found myself
comfortably lodged in the house of the Governor. My luggage, along with
the New Testaments, did not arrive till the following morning. Upon the
arrival of the New Testaments, I showed them to the Governor, and told
him of my intention of advertising them for sale, and inquired in what
shop or store I could conveniently do so. He answered me, by saying, that
his own house was at my service for that purpose. I accordingly stated in
the advertisement, that the New Testaments were on sale at the house of
the Governor, and that the sale would continue but one day. It afforded
me much satisfaction to see the interest taken in this matter by the
Governor and by his lady, both of whom took great pleasure in showing the
New Testaments to those who came to buy, and when I had to go out to pay
or return a visit, they kindly supplied my place until my return.
You cannot but have observed the liberality, kindness, and encouragement
I have met with from the Governors of Guaranda, Riobamba and Ambato, in
the service of the Society. These circumstances are very encouraging
as to your future labours and expectations in this quarter, and are
circumstances of which you will not fail to take advantage. The three
individuals mentioned, will be most ready, I am persuaded, on any future
occasion, to forward in the most obliging and effectual manner the holy
object of your Society. They will also readily lend their influence for
the establishment of Bible Societies in their respective districts, as
soon as a Society of a national character shall be formed in the capital,
to which they may become auxiliaries. Of this Society in the capital,
which I have much in view and at heart, I shall inform you afterwards,
should it please the Lord to conduct me safely to that place. That you
may not, however, lose the advantages already gained by the acquisition
of these gentlemen, as co-operators in your work, I shall here give you
their names and addresses in the style of the country. “Sᵒʳ Coronel
Carlos Araujo, Gobernador de Guaranda; Sᵒʳ Ambrosio Dávalos, Gobernador
de Riobamba; Sᵒʳ Nicolas Bácones, Gobernador de Ambato.” In the preceding
addresses, I have given you verbatim what you should write in addressing
any letter to them. The best manner of communicating with these gentlemen
will be through Guayaquil, as that is the nearest port, and with which
there is constant intercourse. During the time I remained in Guayaquil, I
stopped in the house of Messrs. Robinet and Wheelwright, and found there
every facility afforded me in forwarding the work of the Society. If you
would communicate with that house in your transactions with Guayaquil,
Guaranda, Riobamba, and Ambato, you will find, I am persuaded, all
attention paid to your concerns.
I mentioned above, that my advertisement stated the sale to last for
one day only. I was, however, detained another day, and thus gave an
additional opportunity for purchasing. The whole number sold amounted to
forty-seven copies; but a small number, indeed, yet great as a beginning,
and as an encouragement. I may mention, also, that the rector and several
clergymen bought copies, and that I heard of no opposition.