is extremely rich in wood, pasture, and corn, but very deficient in
water; directly contrary to the rugged scenes of Caernarvonshire; the
summits of whose mountains appeared still visible in the distant
retrospect, mingling with the clouds. About a mile from St. Asaph, we
were particularly pleased with an old oak, whose arms extending entirely
across the road, formed a most elegantly shaped arch.
Denbigh, situated nearly in the centre of the vale of Clwyd, is a
well-built town, standing on the declivity of a hill. A large
manufactory of shoes and gloves is here carried on, and annually supplies
London with a vast quantity. The ruins of the castle, still remaining on
a rock, commanding the town, are too celebrated in history, and too
cruelly shattered by the ravages of war, to be passed unnoticed. The
principal entrance forms a fine Gothic arch, with the statue of King
Edward the First its founder, above it, in an elegant nich, curiously
carved, encircled with a square stone frame. No part of this castle is
perfect; but the huge thick fragments, which are scattered in the most
extraordinary and fantastical manner, seem to tell its former
magnificence; and a present view of things, such as they are, with a
retrospect of what they originally were, spreads a gloom over the mind,
and interrupts the pleasure of contemplation; yet still, the singular
character of this ruin is particularly interesting. Masses of wall still
remain, the proud effigies of sinking greatness; and the shattered tower
seems to nod at every murmur of the blast, and menace the observer with
immediate annihilation. Amongst these ruins we lingered till the whole
was silvered by the pale rays of the moon. To form a conjecture, on the
extent of its apartments, is now impossible; but it is thus described by
Leland, in his _Itinerary_:
“The castelle is a very large thinge, and hath many toures yn it; but
the body of the worke was never finished.
“The gate-house is a marvellous strong and great peace of work, but
the fastigia of it were never finished. If they had beene, it might
have beene countid among the most memorable peaces of workys in
England. It hath diverse wardes and dyverse portcolicis. On the
front of the gate is set the image of Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln, in
his stately long robes.
“There is another very high towre, and larg, in the castelle caullid
the Redde Towre.
“Sum say, that the erle of Lincoln’s sunne felle into the castelle
welle, and ther dyed; whereupon he never passid to finisch the
castelle.
“King Edward the Fourth was besieged in Denbigh castelle, and ther it
was pactid between king Henry’s men and hym that he should with life
departe the reaulme, never to returne. If they had taken king
Edwarde there debellatum fuisset.”
The parish church stands within the walls of the original town. Below
the castle are the fragments of an old church, which for particular
reasons, that cannot now be ascertained, was never finished: it contains
nine windows on two sides, with a large and handsome one on the east.
The vale of Clwyd still retains the character of luxuriant fertility;
about two miles from hence, in our way to