An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises
the place. The evening was far advanced; and part of its ruins were
shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features
stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation.
Passing over a plank, originally the scite of the draw-bridge, we came
into the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence
we examined the grand entrance of the castle, with several abutments
projecting forward, similar in stile to Caernarvon. On the south side of
the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by
thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in
good condition. On one end is the chapel with a large window, a
beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It is founded on the solid
rock, by Edward I. in the year 1284: the walls are from eleven to fifteen
feet thick: all the towers are defended by smaller round ones, projecting
two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the whole
castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps are
decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a footing
very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended
the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented itself to our
view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, looking towards a
small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately given way, and torn
down with it part of the building; the remainder now hangs in an
extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed within strong walls,
and defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the castle by
a gallery; there are likewise several gate-ways, at certain distances.
The ancient Church next attracted our attention; but did not detain us
long, as the monuments for the Wynnes, are the only things worthy of
inspection. From thence we surveyed the remains of the College, which in
the reign of Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth: it is
now in complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured
arms. In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a
quadrangle, by the Wynnes, in the time of Elizabeth, now inhabited by
poor families. This house is adorned, after the fantastical fashion of
the times, in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and
the front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious
crests, birds, and beasts: it bears the date of 1585. The arms of
Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street.
The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate, and copper from
the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of the Malachite
copper is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great
advantage in crossing the river, which is here nearly a mile over, and at
high water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the
channel is a small rocky island. We observed, from this situation, the
two castles, called Bodscaleen and Dyganwy; the small remains of the
latter stand on a high rock above the river; the former is a beautiful
seat of the Mostyns.
We were soon transported into Denbighshire; an extensive prospect of the
ocean presented itself before us, and we discovered the mountains of the
Isle of Man, which could scarcely be distinguished from the clouds of
Heaven, and the waves of the sea. In descending a hill, about two miles
from the neat bathing-town of