and having crossed a handsome modern stone-bridge, thrown over the river
Rhydol, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern Inigo, _Anno Domini_ 1791,”
we soon entered this ancient town, very much fatigued with our long
excursion. The Hotel, newly built by Lord Uxbridge, for the convenience
of strangers, at the end of the town, commands a fine prospect of the
Strait of Menai. The view was bounded by the flat Isle of Anglesea;
while the light vessels, skimming before the wind, gave the whole a
lively and pleasing variety.
The city of Caernarvon, beautifully situated, and regularly built, is in
the form of a square, enclosed on three sides, with thick stone walls;
and on the south side, defended by the castle;—the old town-hall is now
falling to ruin.
With respect to the castle, we by no means agree with Mr. Warner, that
“its high antiquity and ancient splendour is interrupted and destroyed by
the patch-work of modern separation, and the littleness of a cottager’s
domestic œconomy seen within its walls;” as it is only repaired, where
necessity required it, to prop up its crumbling ruins; neither could we
discover any cottage within its walls. The towers are extremely elegant;
but not being entwined with ivy, do not wear that picturesque appearance,
which castles generally possess. Over the principal entrance, which
leads into an oblong court, is seated, beneath a great tower, the statue
of the founder, holding in his left hand a dagger: this gate-way was
originally fortified with four portcullises. At the west end, the eagle
tower, remarkably light and beautiful, in a polygon form; three small
hexagon turrets rising from the middle, with eagles placed on their
battlements; from thence it derives its name. In a little dark room
{114} in this tower, measuring eleven feet by seven, was born Edward the
Second, April 25, 1204. The thickness of the wall is about ten feet. To
the top of the tower we reckoned one hundred and fifty-eight steps, from
whence an extensive view of the adjacent country is seen to great
advantage. On the south are three octagonal towers with small turrets,
with similar ones on the north. All these towers communicate with each
other by a gallery, both on the ground, middle, and upper floor, formed
within the immense thickness of the walls, in which are cut narrow slips,
at convenient distances, for the discharge of arrows.
This building, founded on a rock, is the work of Edward I. the conqueror
of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square, enclosing
an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of the
Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that by the united efforts of the
peasants, it was erected within the space of one year.
Having spent near three hours surveying one of the noblest castles in
Wales, we walked round the environs of the town: the terrace round the
castle walls is exceedingly pleasing, being in front of the Menai, which
is here upwards of a mile in breadth, forming a safe harbour for craft of
five or six tons, and generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting a
picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents
an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and
likewise copper from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts
of the kingdom.
Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and
largest towns in North-Wales; and under the patronage of Lord Uxbridge
promises to become still more populous and extensive: his Lordship, we
were given to understand by our landlord, intends to erect sea-baths; and
by this well-planned improvement, induce company to resort here during
the summer months.
Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon with great satisfaction to
the Tourist; the principal of which is a visit to