The “rich-hair’d youth of morn” had not long left its saffron bed, and
the very air was balmy as it freshened into morn, when we hurried from
our Inn to enjoy the luxuries of the Vale of Festiniog, so well
celebrated by the pen of Lord Littleton. “With the woman one loves, with
the friend of one’s heart, (says his Lordship) and a good study of books,
one may pass an age there, and think it a day. If one has a mind to live
long, and renew his youth, let him come and settle at Festiniog.” These
are the sentiments of Lord Littleton, in which seemed to be verified the
situation of Mr. Oakley, who has selected this spot for his residence.
Tan-y-bwlch Hall, (for by that name is Mr. Oakley’s Seat dignified) is
environed by a thick wood, which climbs the steep mountains behind his
mansion. We followed the meandering and translucent waters of the river
Dryryd, till we arrived at the Village of Maentwrog, situated about the
middle of this Paradise. Passing through the village, we observed a
small but neat cottage, which was rendered interesting to the way-farer
by its neat simplicity. Perceiving a stand of fruit at the door, we were
enticed to enter the cottage, where we found the interior of the house as
comfortable, as the situation was interesting. A large old-fashioned
chimney corner, with benches to receive a social party, formed a most
enviable retreat from the rude storms of winter, and defied alike the
weather and the world:—with what pleasure did I picture,
“A smiling circle, emulous to please,”
gathering round a blazing pile of wood on the hearth, free from all the
vicissitudes and cares of the world, happy in their own home, blessed in
the sweet affections of kindred amity, regardless of the winter blast
that struggled against the window, and the snow that pelted against the
roof. On our entering, the wife who possessed “the home of happiness, an
honest breast,” invited us “to take a seat” under the window, which
overlooking the village, and the dark tower of the church, offered the
delights of other seasons. The sweets of a little garden, joined its
fragrance to the honeysuckle, which enwreathed with rich drapery the
windows; and here too lay the old family Bible, which had been put aside
on our first entrance; we regretted, not having an opportunity of seeing
the husband, whom, I make no doubt
“Envied not, and never thought of kings,
Nor from those appetites sustain’d annoy,
That chance may frustrate, or indulgence cloy;
Each season look’d delightful as it past,
To the fond husband, and the faithful wife.”
Our intended route for this day being very short, we did not leave
Tan-y-bwlch till after breakfast, and even then lingered through the
valley, to take one last adieu of this paradisiacal spot; the Dryryd
serpentizing through the meadows, and the lively green of the swelling
declivities on each side, beautifully contrasted with the ripening corn.
From the vast quantity of ore we discovered, I am inclined to believe,
that any spirited speculator would find it amply repay him for the
expences and labour attending his speculations. The vale of Festiniog,
not exceeding three miles long, and one in breadth, is a very rich tract
of land.
An extremely rough, rocky, and unpleasant road, with nothing to engage
our attention; and the country uncultivated, and diverted of every thing
that gives, even the shadow of civilization, brought us to the far-famed
Pont Aber-glaslyn, or, _The Bridge of the Harbour of the Blue Lake_; and
not uncommonly styled, the _Devil’s Bridge_. This last appellation has
very frequently misled strangers, who, confounding it with the well-known
bridge at Havod, have been much disappointed, their expectations being
raised very high, from the general descriptions of that place. Of this,
indeed, we found an instance on the very spot. This bridge connects the
two counties of Merionethshire and Caernarvonshire; being, from the
parapet to the water, forty feet. From the description of former
tourists, it did not answer our expectations; but the salmon-leap is an
interesting object from the bridge: the height is about fifteen feet; and
though we observed very many attempt this surprising feat of agility, not
one succeeded. Some fishermen below soon excited our curiosity, and
salmon was here offered for sale at three-pence per pound.
An intelligent man here offered himself as our guide to the rich
Copper-mines, in the vicinity of Pont Aber-Glaslyn. This miner, having
worked both here and at the Paris mountain, confidently asserted, that
one pound of this ore was now esteemed equivalent to twice the quantity,
produced in Anglesea. Stupendous cliffs, by the road side, literally
rise eight hundred and sixty feet perpendicularly, and hang in the most
capricious forms over the torrent, which, straggling amongst the recesses
of stone, is hastening forward to disembogue itself into the estuary of
Traeth Mawr. The pass is not more than seventy feet; after much rain it
is entirely inundated by the overflowings of the Glaslyn, which
reflected, as in a mirror, the blackness of the impending cliffs. On the
Caernarvonshire side are several lead mines; but they have not proved
sufficiently rich, to reward the labour of working.