we paused at Llanryan Bridge, to admire the rich banks rising on each
side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is thrown; it is built
in the style of the celebrated Pont y Prydd, in the vale of
Glamorganshire. We entered the town of Aberystwith, over a temporary
wooden bridge. {63} In the year 1796, a stone bridge experienced the
same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned by a sudden thaw: Mr.
Edwards, from Dolgelly is now engaged in erecting another, by contract,
consisting of six arches.
Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of sea-ports in general, is
situated at the termination of the vale of Rhydol, in the Bay of
Cardigan, and open to St. George’s Channel. The environs are stony and
rugged; the coast affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and
the shore rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all respects,
the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number of
houses, and, consequently, more company. At the extremity of the town,
upon an eminence, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, of which little
now remains but a solitary tower, overlooking a wide expanse of sea. It
was rendered famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the great
Cadwalader, and in all the Welch wars considered as a fortress of great
strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, 1107, and rebuilt by Edward
I. in 1277, a few years before his complete conquest of Wales. The ruin
of the castle now affords a pleasant walk.
But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were the rich
Lead Mines in its vicinity. These mines are said to have yielded near a
hundred ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a
profit of two thousand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the
vast fortune, which he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed
for the purpose of supplying the Northern side of London with water. But
Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their greatest height: an indenture
was granted to him by Charles I. for the coining of silver pieces, to be
stamped with ostrich feathers, on both sides, for the benefit of paying
his workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed Governor of Lundy
Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his,
discovered in 1690. The ore was here so near the surface, that the moss
and grass in some places just covered it.
Close to the scite of the old Castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley in
Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house, in the castellated form,
intended merely as a summer residence. Mr. Nash, of Caermarthen, was the
architect: it consists of three octagon towers, with a balcony towards
the sea. The rooms are well contrived, and elegantly furnished: the
windows command an unlimited View of St. George’s Channel; and the
dilapidated fragments of the Castle, are from hence viewed to great
advantage.
We determined to pursue the Banks of the meandering Rhyddol, in
preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod.
This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the beautiful; it is
enclosed by high mountains on each side, vegetating to their summits;
indeed, all the tints of verdure, and diversity of foliage, here
introduce themselves in one view; the Rhyddol struggling with the huge
masses of rock,—its never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling
foam;—in fine, every thing that can be imagined, by the most enthusiastic
admirer of nature is blended in this short excursion:—
—“_is not this vale_
More free from peril than the envious courts?
Here feel we but the penalty of Adam,
The season’s difference, as the icy fang
And churlish chiding of the Winter’s wind.”