soon attracted our notice. The relicks of this ruin stand on a point of
rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whose beauty time had only impaired,
to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfect circular towers, and the
fragments of a wall, now only remain. The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds
with fish, as we observed at every door, in the village of Kilgerran, a
coracle. {58} The construction of this little water conveyance is
remarkably simple, and intended solely for the use of fishing: a thick
skin, or coarse pitched canvas, is stretched over _wicker-work_. This
singular fishing-boat only conveys one man, who manages it with the
greatest adroitness imaginable; the right hand being employed in using
the paddle, the left in conducting the net, and the teeth in holding the
line. Two coracles generally co-operate, to assist each other in
fishing: they usually measure about five feet long, and four broad, and
rounded at the corners; and, after the labours of the day, are conveyed,
on the back, to the little cot of the fisherman, which is looked upon as
a necessary appendage to the cottage door.
Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence and beauty of the
saunter from hence to Cardigan: the valley, about two miles in extent,
seemed to possess all that Nature inherits; sloping hills, two hundred
feet high, covered with wood, from the water’s edge, to their highest
summit, and at the most acceptable distances, and truly happy situations,
interrupted by a bold, naked, and projecting rock: whilst the broad and
translucid stream of the Tyvi reflects, as in a mirror, the blackness of
the impending shades. The retrospect commands the romantic ruins of
Kilgarran Castle, whose mutilated walls close this delicious landscape.
The whole valley bears a strong resemblance to the situation of the
celebrated Piercefield. As this spot is entirely lost, by keeping the
turnpike road, it is advisable for travellers, in general, to hire a boat
from Cardigan to Kilgarran: this, our humble and less-encumbered mode of
travelling rendered unnecessary.
At Llechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extensive Tin-works are carried on
by Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined works of this nature at
Neath, we preferred the romantic vale of Kilgerran; as to accomplish
both, would have occupied too much time.