inaccessible for carriages, indifferent for pedestrians, and affording
nothing worthy our attention. It lay over a barren heath, with mountains
on one side, and a dreary waste of land before us. About a mile and a
half from Vechan, we unexpectedly descended through a wood into a rich
romantic valley, watered by Neath River. In this retired situation we
found the Angel Inn, of Pont Neath Vechan. Description can scarcely
suggest the full grandeur and magnificence of this valley: woods, rocks,
and waterfalls, all unite, to render it _beautiful_. Our Ciceroni first
conducted us to the fall of Scotenogam, on the river Purthen, about a
mile and a half from the house: this fall we saw to great advantage, the
river having gathered in its course the accumulation of many torrents
after the rain, precipitates itself in one majestic expanse of water,
near seventy feet high; whilst the dark lowering rocks, on each side,
contrasted finely with the varied vegetation around us. The descent is
by no means easy, but the grandeur of the scene amply compensated for all
difficulties. Our Ciceroni next conducted us to a very inferior one,
called the Lady’s Cascade, on the river Neath; but of this we caught a
very indifferent prospect, the ascent of the mountain being inaccessible,
and the water too high to admit of our obtaining a due inspection of it.
We then returned to our inn, and set out a different road, in quest of
nature’s landscapes.—Having walked about three miles, we heard the angry
roar of small cascades; this we considered as preludes of scenes, where
the water-fall swells into a torrent; and we soon found ourselves near
the fall of Lower Culhepste. The character of this cataract differs very
much from that of Scotenogam; being broken in its descent from projecting
rocks, of an immense size. About a quarter of a mile from hence, we
descended a rugged and steep rock to examine the fall of Upper-Culhepste,
about fifty feet high. The singularity of this fall invites the
curiosity of the traveller more than any other in Wales: the whole river
precipitates itself with such violence, as to leave a space between the
rock and the fall sufficiently wide for a horse path. Though in less
than two minutes we were completely wet by the spray, yet the effect was
awful and sublime; and it was necessary to remember the fixed foundation
of the rocks above our heads, to soften the awe they inspired. Near this
fall is Porthogo Cavern, through which the river Vendre runs. The water
was too high to admit our entrance; our Conductor, however, informed us,
he had penetrated about half a mile, but found the river wind so many
ways, he judged it safer to return, lest he should share the fate of a
poor man, who lost himself in this Cavern for the space of three days.
On our return, a very intelligent gentleman, staying in the
neighbourhood, strenuously recommended us to descend a steep mountain, on
our left, to survey a curious quadrangular strata of marble in the rock
below. With some difficulty we effected our purpose, having waded twice
through the river. This strata in Welch is called _Bwr Maen_, which
signifies a Stone Bow: it is situated close to the river Dynnas, which,
forcing its way through some broken fragments of the rock, forms a
cascade a little above. The price offered for this grey marble, in
London, is fifteen shillings a foot square.
About five miles from Vechan is the Seat of Mrs. Holbrow, on the right.
We were prevented visiting the water-falls of Melincourt and Aperdulas,
the river, owing to the late floods, being too deep to ford. Our route
still continued through the valley we had so much admired the evening
before. As we drew near