_Of our Employment at Tinian, till the final Departure of the
Centurion, and of the Voyage to Macao._[1]
The commodore resolved to stay no longer at the island than was
absolutely necessary to complete our stock of water, a work which we
immediately set ourselves about. But the loss of our long-boat, which
was staved against our poop when we were driven out to sea, put us
to great inconveniences in getting our water on board: For we were
obliged to raft off all our cask, and the tide ran so strong, that,
besides the frequent delays and difficulties it occasioned, we more
than once lost the whole raft. Nor was this our only misfortune; for,
on the third day after our arrival, a sudden gust of wind brought home
our anchor, forced us off the bank, and drove the ship out to sea a
second time. The commodore, it is true, and the principal officers,
were now on board; but we had near seventy men on shore, who had been
employed in filling our water, and procuring provisions: These had
with them our two cutters; but as they were too many for the cutters
to bring off at once, we sent the eighteen-oared barge to assist them;
and at the same time made a signal for all that could to embark. The
two cutters soon came off to us full of men; but forty of the company,
who were employed in killing cattle in the wood, and in bringing
them down to the landing-place, were left behind; and though the
eighteen-oared barge was left for their conveyance, yet, as the ship
soon drove to a considerable distance, it was not in their power to
join us. However, as the weather was favourable, and our crew was now
stronger than when we were first driven out, we, in about five days
time, returned again to an anchor at Tinian, and relieved those we
had left behind us from their second fears of being deserted by their
ship.
[Footnote 1: The original contains also a description of the Ladrones
(or Marian Islands, as they are now usually called,) which, for a
reason before mentioned, is omitted.]
On our arrival, we found that the Spanish bark, the old object of
their hopes, had undergone a new metamorphosis: For those we had
left onshore began to despair of our return, and conceiving that the
lengthening the bark, as formerly proposed, was both a toilsome and
unnecessary measure, considering the small number they consisted of,
they had resolved to join her again, and to restore her to her first
state; and in this scheme they had made some progress; for they had
brought the two parts together, and would have soon completed her, had
not our coming back put a period to their labours and disquietudes.
These people we had left behind informed us, that, just before we were
seen in the offing, two proas had stood in very near the shore, and
had continued there for some time; but, on the appearance of our
ship, they crowded away, and were presently out of sight. And, on this
occasion, I must mention an incident, which, though it happened during
the first absence of the ship, was then omitted, to avoid interrupting
the course of the narration.
It hath been already observed, that a part of the detachment, sent to
this island under the command of the Spanish Serjeant, lay concealed
in the woods; and we were the less solicitous to find them out, as our
prisoners all assured us, that it was impossible for them to get
off, and consequently that it was impossible for them to send any
intelligence about us to Guam. But when the Centurion drove out to
sea, and left the commodore on shore, he one day, attended by some
of his officers, endeavoured to make the tour of the island: In this
expedition, being on a rising ground, they perceived in the valley
beneath them the appearance of a small thicket, which, by observing
more nicely, they found had a progressive motion: This at first
surprised them; but they soon discovered, that it was no more than
several large cocoa bushes, which were dragged along the ground, by
persons concealed beneath them. They immediately concluded that
these were some of the Serjeant's party (which, was indeed true); and
therefore the commodore and his people made after them, in hopes
of finding out their retreat. The Indians soon perceived they were
discovered, and hurried away with precipitation; but Mr Anson was so
near them, that he did not lose sight of them till they arrived at
their cell, which he and his officers entering found to be abandoned,
there being a passage from it down a precipice contrived for the
conveniency of flight. They found here an old firelock or two, but
no other arms. However, there was a great quantity of provisions,
particularly salted spare-ribs of pork, which were excellent; and
from what our people saw here, they concluded, that the extraordinary
appetite, which they had found at this island, was not confined to
themselves; for, it being about noon, the Indians had laid out a very
plentiful repast considering their numbers, and had their bread-fruit
and cocoa-nuts prepared ready for eating, and in a manner which
plainly evinced, that, with them too, a good meal was neither an
uncommon nor an unheeded article. The commodore having in vain
endeavoured to discover the path by which the Indians had escaped, he
and his officers contented themselves with sitting down to the dinner,
which was thus luckily filled to their present appetites; after which,
they returned back to their old habitation, displeased at missing the
Indians, as they hoped to have engaged them in our service, if they
could have had any conference with them. But, notwithstanding what our
prisoners had asserted, we were afterwards assured, that these Indians
were carried off to Guam long before we left the place.
On our coming to an anchor again; after our second driving off to sea;
we laboured indefatigably in getting in our water; and having, by the
20th of October, completed it to fifty tun, which we supposed would be
sufficient for our passage to Macao, we, on the next day, sent one of
each mess on shore, to gather as large a quantity of oranges, lemons,
cocoa-nuts, and other fruits of the island, as they possibly could,
for the use of themselves and mess-mates, when at sea. And, these
purveyors returning on board us on the evening of the same day, we
then set fire to the bark and proa, hoisted in our boats, and got
under sail, steering away for the south-end of the island of Formosa,
and taking our leaves, for the third and last time, of the island of
Tinian: An island, which, whether we consider the excellence of its
productions, the beauty of its appearance, the elegance of its woods
and lawns, the healthiness of its air or the adventures it gave rise
to, may in all these views be truly styled romantic.
[After the description, certainly a very imperfect one, of the
Ladrones, which now follows, the author gives a curious account of the
proas or prows so much used among them. This is extracted, as likely
to interest the reader, and as more satisfactory, than the brief
notice already given in the history of Magellan's voyage. This account
is more deserving of regard, as being drawn up from very particular
examination of one of the vessels taken, as has been mentioned, at
Tinian.]
The Indians that inhabit the Ladrones, of which Tinian (formerly well
peopled) is one, are a bold, well-limbed people; and it should seem
from some of their practices, that they are no ways defective in
understanding; for their flying proa in particular, which has been for
ages the only vessel used by them, is so singular and extraordinary
an invention, that it would do honour to any nation, however dexterous
and acute. Whether we consider its aptitude to the particular
navigation of these islands, or the uncommon simplicity and ingenuity
of its fabric and contrivance, or the extraordinary velocity with
which it moves, we shall find it worthy of our admiration, and
meriting a place amongst the mechanical productions of the most
civilized nations, where arts and sciences have most eminently
flourished.
The name of flying proa given to these vessels, is owing to the
swiftness with which they sail. Of this the Spaniards assert such
stories, as appear altogether incredible to those who have never seen
these vessels move; nor are the Spaniards the only people who relate
these extraordinary tales of their celerity. For those who shall have
the curiosity to enquire at the dock at Portsmouth, about a trial made
there some years since, with a very imperfect one built at that place,
will meet with accounts not less wonderful than any the Spaniards have
given. However, from some rude estimations made, by our people, of the
velocity with which they crossed the horizon at a distance, whilst we
lay at Tinian, I cannot help believing that with a brisk trade-wind
they will run near twenty miles an hour: Which, though greatly short
of what the Spaniards report of them, is yet a prodigious degree of
swiftness.
The construction of this proa is a direct contradiction to the
practice of the rest of mankind. For as the rest of the world make
the head of their vessels different from the stern, but the two sides
alike, the proa, on the contrary, has her head and stern exactly
alike, but her two sides very different; the side, intended to be
always the lee-side, being flat; and the windward-side made rounding,
in the manner of other vessels: And, to prevent her oversetting, which
from her small breadth, and the straight run of her leeward-side,
would, without this precaution, infallibly happen, there is a frame
laid out from her to windward, to the end of which is fastened a log,
fashioned into the shape of a small boat, and made hollow: The weight
of the frame is intended to balance the proa, and the small boat is by
its buoyancy (as it is always in the water) to prevent her oversetting
to windward; and this frame is usually called an outrigger. The body
of the proa (at least of that we took) is made of two pieces joined
end-ways, and sowed together with bark, for there is no iron used
about her: She is about two inches thick at the bottom, which at the
gunwale is reduced to less than one.[2]
[Footnote 2: The author refers to a plate for a minute description,
which is necessarily omitted.--E.]
The proa generally carries six or seven Indians; two of which are
placed in the head and stem, who steer the vessel alternately with a
paddle, according to the tack she goes on, be in the stern being the
steersman; the other Indians are employed either in baling out the
water which she accidentally ships, or in setting and trimming
the sail. From the description of these vessels it is sufficiently
obvious, how dexterously they are fitted for ranging this collection
of islands called the Ladrones: For as these islands lie nearly N. and
S. of each other, and are all within the limits of the trade-wind,
the proas, by sailing most excellently on a wind, and with either
end foremost, can ran from one of these islands to the other and back
again, only by shifting the sail, without ever putting about; and,
by the flatness of their lee-side, and their small breadth, they are
capable of lying much nearer the wind than any other vessel hitherto
known.
The eastern monsoon was now, we reckoned, fairly settled; and we had
a constant gale blowing right upon our stern: So that we generally
ran from forty to fifty leagues a-day. But we had a large hollow
sea pursuing us, which occasioned the ship to labour much; whence we
received great damage in our rigging, which was grown very rotten, and
our leak was augmented: But, happily for us, our people were now in
full health; so that there were no complaints of fatigue, but all went
through their attendance on the pumps, and every other duty of the
ship, with ease and cheerfulness.
Having no other but our sheet-anchor left, except our prize-anchors,
which were stowed in the hold, and were too light to be depended on,
we were under great concern how we should manage on, the coast
of China, where we were all entire strangers, and where we should
doubtless be frequently under the necessity of coming to an anchor.
Our sheet-anchor being much too heavy for a coasting anchor, it was
at length resolved to fix two of our largest prize-anchors into one
stock, and to place between their shanks two guns, four pounders,
which was accordingly executed, and it was to serve as a best bower:
And a third prize-anchor being ill like manner joined with our
stream-anchor, with guns between them, we thereby made a small bower;
so that, besides our sheet-anchor, we had again two others at our
bows, one of which weighed 3900, and the other 2900 pounds.
The 3d of November, about three in the afternoon, we saw an island,
which at first we imagined to be the island of Botel Tobago Xima: But
on nearer approach we found it to be much smaller than that is usually
represented; and about an hour after we saw another island, five or
six miles farther to the westward. As no chart, nor any journal we had
seen, took notice of any other island to the eastward of Formosa, than
Botel Tobago Xima, and as we had no observation of our latitude
at noon, we were in some perplexity, being apprehensive that an
extraordinary current had driven us into the neighbourhood of the
Bashee islands; and therefore, when night came on, we brought to, and
continued in this posture till the next morning, which proving dark
and cloudy, for some time prolonged our uncertainty; but it cleared
up about nine o'clock, when we again discerned the two islands
above-mentioned; we then prest forwards to the westward, and by
eleven got a sight of the southern part of the island of Formosa. This
satisfied us that the second island we saw was Botel Tobago Xima, and
the first a small island or rock, lying five or six miles due east
from it, which, not being mentioned by any of our books or charts, was
the occasion of our fears.[3]
[Footnote 3: These two islands are marked in Arrowsmith's map of Asia,
under the names of Bottle Tobago and Little Bottle Tobago.--E.]
When we got sight of the island of Formosa, we steered W. by S. in
order to double its extremity, and kept a good look-out for the rocks
of Vele Rete, which we did not see till two in the afternoon. They
then bore from us W.N.W. three miles distant, the south end of Formosa
at the same time bearing N. by W. 1/2 W. about five leagues distant.
To give these rocks a good birth, we immediately haled up S. by W.
and so left them between us and the land. Indeed we had reason to be
careful of them; for though they appeared as high out of the water as
a ship's hull, yet they are environed with breakers on all sides, and
there is a shoal stretching from them at least a mile and a half to
the southward, whence they may be truly called dangerous. The course
from Botel Tobago Xima to these rocks is S.W. by W. and the distance
about twelve or thirteen leagues: And the south end of Formosa, off
which they lie, is in the latitude of 21° 50' north, and in 23° 50'
west longitude from Tinian, according to our most approved reckonings,
though by some of our accounts above a degree more.
While we were passing by these rocks of Vele Rete, there was an outcry
of fire on the fore-castle; this occasioned a general alarm, and the
whole crew instantly flocked together in the utmost confusion, so that
the officers found it difficult for some time to appease the uproar:
But having at last reduced the people to order, it was perceived that
the fire proceeded from the furnace; and, pulling down the brick-work,
it was extinguished with great facility, for it had taken its rise
from the bricks, which, being over-heated, had begun to communicate
the fire to the adjacent wood-work. In the evening we were surprised
with a view of what we at first sight conceived to have been breakers,
but, on a stricter examination, we found them to be only a great
number of fires on the island of Formosa. These, we imagined, were,
intended by the inhabitants of that island as signals for us to touch
there, but that suited not our views, we being impatient to reach the
port of Macao as soon as possible. From Formosa we steered W.N.W. and
sometimes still more northerly, proposing to fall in with, the coast
of China, to the eastward of Pedro Blanco; for the rock so called is
usually esteemed an excellent direction for ships bound to Macao. We
continued this course till the following night, and then frequently
brought to, to try if we were in soundings: But it was the 5th of
November, at nine in the morning, before we struck ground, and then,
we had forty-two fathom, and a bottom of grey sand mixed with shells.
When we had got about twenty miles farther W.N.W. we had thirty-five
fathom; and the same bottom, from whence our sounding gradually
decreased from thirty-five to twenty-five fathom; but soon after, to
our great surprise, they jumped back again to thirty fathom: This was
an alteration we could not very well account for,[4] since all the
charts laid down regular soundings every-where to the northward of
Pedro Blanco; and for this reason we kept a very careful look-out, and
altered our course to N.N.W. and having run thirty-five miles in this
direction, our soundings again gradually diminished to twenty-two
fathom, and we at last, about mid-night, got sight of the main land of
China, bearing N. by W. four leagues distant: We then brought the ship
to, with her head to the sea, proposing to wait for the morning; and
before sun-rise we were surprised to find ourselves in the midst of an
incredible number of fishing-boats, which seemed to cover the surface
of the sea as far as the eye could reach. I may well style their
number incredible, since I cannot believe, upon the lowest estimate,
that there were fewer than six thousand, most of them manned with
five hands, and none with less than three. Nor was this swarm of
fishing-vessels peculiar to this spot; for, as we ran on to the
westward, we found them as abundant on every part of the coast. We at
first doubted not but we should procure a pilot from them to carry
us to Macao; but though many of them came close to the ship, and we
endeavoured to tempt them by showing them a number of dollars, a most
alluring bait for Chinese of all ranks and professions, yet we could
not entice them on board us, nor procure any directions from them;
though, I presume, the only difficulty was their not comprehending
what we wanted them to do, for we could have no communication with
them, but by signs: Indeed we often pronounced the word Macao; but
this we had reason to suppose they understood in a different sense;
for in return they sometimes held up fish to us, and we afterwards
learnt, that the Chinese name for fish is of a somewhat similar sound.
But what surprised us most, was the inattention and want of curiosity,
which we observed in this herd of fishermen: A ship like ours had
doubtless never been in those seas before; perhaps, there might not
be one, amongst all the Chinese employed in this fishery, who had ever
seen any European vessel; so that we might reasonably have expected
to have been considered by them as a very uncommon and extraordinary
object; but though many of their vessels came close to the ship, yet
they did not appear to be at all interested about us, nor did
they deviate in the least from their course to regard us; which
insensibility, especially in maritime persons, about a matter in
their own profession, is scarcely to be credited, did not the
general behaviour of the Chinese, in other instances, furnish us with
continual proofs of a similar turn of mind: It may perhaps be doubted,
whether this cast of temper be the effect of nature or education;
but, in either case, it is an incontestable symptom of a mean and
contemptible disposition, and is alone a sufficient confutation of the
extravagant panegyrics, which many hypothetical writers have bestowed
on the ingenuity and capacity of this nation.[5]
[Footnote 4: It was probably occasioned by their being over a sand
bank, which is laid down by Arrowsmith in this part of the Centurion's
course.--E.]
[Footnote 5: Neither the ingenuity nor the capacity of the Chinese is
at all implicated by the circumstances recorded, the source of which
may be probably enough conjectured, viz. their contempt of every thing
foreign, which, it is well known, they never scruple to avow. Besides,
as is very soon mentioned, their fishermen were under authority, and
had received no orders or permission to the effect desired.--E.]
Not being able to procure any information from the Chinese fishermen
about our proper course to Macao, it was necessary for us to rely
entirety on our own judgment; and concluding from our latitude, which
was 22° 42' north, and from our soundings, which were only seventeen
or eighteen fathoms, that we were yet to the eastward of Pedro
Blanco, we stood to the westward: And, for the assistance of future
navigators, who may hereafter doubt about the parts of the coast they
are upon, I must observe, that, besides the latitude of Pedro Blanco,
which is 22° 18', and the depth of water, which to the westward of
that rock is almost every where twenty fathoms, there is another
circumstance which will give great assistance in judging of the
position of the ship: This is, the kind of ground; for, till we came
within thirty miles of Pedro Blanco, we had constantly a sandy bottom;
but there the bottom changed to soft and muddy, and continued so quite
to the island of Macao; only while we were in sight of Pedro Blanco,
and very near it, we had for a short space a bottom of greenish mud,
intermixed with sand.
On the fifth of November, at midnight, we made the coast of China; and
the next day, about two o'clock, as we were standing to the westward
within two leagues of the coast, and still surrounded by fishing
vessels in as great numbers as at first, we perceived that a boat
a-head of us waved a red flag, and blew a horn; This we considered as
a signal made to us, either to warn us of some shoal, or to inform
us that they would supply us with a pilot, and in this belief we
immediately sent our cutter to the boat, to know their intentions; but
we were soon made sensible of our mistake, and found that this boat
was the commodore of the whole fishery, and that the signal she had
made, was to order them all to leave off fishing, and to return in
shore, which we saw them instantly obey. On this disappointment we
kept on our course, and soon after passed by two very small rocks,
which lay four or five miles distant from the shore; but night came on
before we got sight of Pedro Blanco, and we therefore brought-to till
the morning, when we had the satisfaction to discover it. It is a rock
of a small circumference, but of a moderate height, and, both in shape
and colour, resembles a sugar-loaf, and is about seven or eight miles
from the shore. We passed within a mile and a half of it, and left
it between us and the land, still keeping on to the westward; and the
next day, being the 7th, we were a-breast of a chain of islands,
which stretched from east to west. These, as we afterwards found, were
called the islands of Lema;[6] they are rocky and barren, and are in
all, small and great, fifteen or sixteen; and there are, besides, a
great number of other islands between them and the main land of China.
These islands we left on the star-board side, passing within four
miles of them, where we had twenty-four fathom water. We were still
surrounded by fishing-boats; and we once more sent the cutter on board
one of them, to endeavour to procure a pilot, but could not prevail;
however, one of the Chinese directed us by signs to sail round the
westermost of the islands, or rocks of Lema, and then to hale up.
We followed this direction; and in the evening came to an anchor in
eighteen fathom.
[Footnote 6: Called Grand Lema in Arrowsmith's map, and touched at by
the Lion in 1793.--E.]
On the 9th at four in the morning, we sent our cutter to sound the
channel, where we proposed to pass; but before the return of the
cutter, a Chinese pilot put on board us, and told us, in broken
Portuguese, he would carry us to Macao for thirty dollars: These were
immediately paid him, and we then weighed and made sail; and soon
after, several other pilots came on board us, who, to recommend
themselves, produced certificates from the captains of several ships
they had piloted in, but we continued the ship under the management of
the Chinese who came first on board. By this time we learnt, that we
were not far distant from Macao, and that there were in the river of
Canton, at the mouth of which Macao lies, eleven European ships, of
which four were English. Our pilot carried us between the islands of
Bamboo and Cabouce, but the winds hanging in the northern board, and
the tides often setting strongly against us, we were obliged to come
frequently to an anchor, so that we did not get through between the
two islands till the 12th of November, at two in the morning. In
passing through, our depth of water was from twelve to fourteen
fathom; and as we still steered on N.W. 1/2 W. between a number of
other islands, our soundings underwent little or no variation till
towards the evening, when they increased to seventeen fathom; in which
depth (the wind dying away) we anchored not far from the island of
Lantoon, which is the largest of all this range of islands. At seven
in the morning we weighed again, and steering W.S.W. and S.W. by
W., we at ten o'clock happily anchored in Macao road, in five fathom
water, the city of Macao bearing W. by N., three leagues distant; the
peak of Lantoon E. by N., and the grand Ladrone S. by E. each of them
about five leagues distant. Thus, after a fatiguing cruise of above
two years continuance, we once more arrived in an amicable port, in
a civilized country; where the conveniences of life were in great
plenty; where the naval stores, which we now extremely wanted, could
be in some degree procured; where we expected the inexpressible
satisfaction of receiving letters from our relations and friends; and
where our countrymen, who were lately arrived from England, would be
capable of answering the numerous enquiries we were prepared to make,
both about public and private occurrences, and to relate to us many
particulars, which, whether of importance or not, would be listened
to by us with the utmost attention, after the long suspension of
our correspondence with our country, to which the nature of our
undertaking had hitherto subjected us.