_Arrival of the Centurion at Juan Fernandez, with a Description of
that Island._
As mentioned in the preceding section, we descried the island of
Juan Fernandez at day-break on the 9th June, bearing N. by E. 1/2
E. distant eleven or twelve leagues. Though on this first view it
appeared very mountainous, ragged, and irregular, yet it was land,
and the land we sought for, and was therefore a most agreeable sight:
because here only we could hope to put a period to those terrible
calamities with which we had so long struggled, which had already
swept away above half of our crew, and which, had we continued only
a few days longer at sea, must inevitably have completed our
destruction. For we were now reduced to so helpless a condition, that,
out of two hundred and odd men who remained alive, taking all our
watches together, we could not muster hands now to work the ship on
any emergency, even including the officers, the servants, and the
boys.
The wind being northerly when we first made the island, we kept plying
to windward all that day, and the ensuing night, in order to get in
with the land; and, while wearing ship in the middle watch, we had a
melancholy instance of the almost incredible debility of our people;
for the lieutenant could muster no more than two quarter-masters and
six foremast men capable of working; so that, without the assistance
of the officers, servants, and boys, it might have been impossible for
us to have reached the island after we got sight of it; and even
with their assistance, we were two hours in trimming the sails; to so
wretched a condition were we reduced, in a sixty-gun ship, which had
passed the Straits of Le Maire only three months before with between
four and five hundred men, most of them then in health and vigour.
In the afternoon of the 10th, we got under the lee of the island, and
kept ranging along its coast at the distance of about two miles, in
order to look out for the proper anchorage, which was described to
be in a bay on its north side. Being now so near the shore, we could
perceive that the broken craggy precipices, which had appeared so
very unpromising from a distance, were far from barren, being in most
places covered by woods; and that there were every where the finest
vallies interspersed between them, cloathed with a most beautiful
verdure, and watered by numerous streams and cascades, every valley of
any extent being provided with its own rill; and we afterwards found
that the water was constantly clear, and not inferior to any we had
ever met with. The aspect of a country thus beautifully diversified
would at any time have been extremely delightful; but, in our
distressed situation, languishing as we were for the land and its
vegetable productions, an indication constantly attending every stage
of the sea-scurvy, it is scarcely credible with what eagerness and
transport we viewed the shore, and with how much impatience we longed
for the greens and other refreshments which were in sight. We were
particularly anxious for the water, as we had been confined to a very
sparing allowance for a considerable time, and had then only five
tons remaining on board. Those only who have endured a long series of
thirst, and who can readily recall the desire and agitation which
even the ideas alone of springs and brooks have at that time raised
in their minds, can judge of the emotion with which we viewed a large
cascade of the purest water, which poured into the sea at a short
distance from the ship, from a rock near a hundred feet high.
Even those of the sick who were not in the very last stage of the
distemper, though they had been long confined to their hammocks,
exerted their small remains of strength, and crawled up to the deck,
to feast their eyes with this reviving prospect.
We thus coasted along the island, fully occupied in contemplating this
enchanting landscape, which still improved as we proceeded. But at
last the night closed upon us, before we could determine upon the
proper bay in which to anchor. It was resolved, therefore, to keep in
soundings all night, having then from sixty-four to seventy fathoms,
and to send our boat next morning to discover the road. The current
shifted, however, in the night, and set us so near the land that we
were obliged to let go our best bower in fifty-six fathoms, not half
a mile from shore. At four next morning, the cutter was dispatched,
under our third-lieutenant, to find out the bay of which we were in
search. The boat returned at noon, full of seals and grass; for though
the island abounded with better vegetables, the boat's crew, during
their short stay, had not met any other, and thought even this would
be acceptable as a dainty, and indeed it was all speedily and eagerly
devoured. The seals, too, were considered as fresh provision, but were
not much admired, though they afterwards came into more repute; but we
had taken a prodigious quantity of excellent fish during the absence
of the boat, which rendered the seals less valuable at this time.
The cutter had discovered the bay in which we intended to anchor,
which was to the westward of our present station; and next morning,
the weather proving favourable, we endeavoured to weigh, in order to
proceed thither, mustering all the strength we could, obliging even
the sick, who could hardly stand on their legs, to assist; yet the
capstan was so weakly manned, that it was near four hours before we
could heave the cable right up and down: after which, with our utmost
efforts, though with many surges and some additional purchases to
increase our strength, we found it utterly impossible to start the
anchor out of the ground. At noon, however, as a fresh gale blew
towards the bay, we were induced to set the sails, which fortunately
tripped the anchor. We then steered along shore, till we came abreast
of the point forming the eastern part of the bay: But on opening the
bay, the wind, which had hitherto favoured us, chanced to shift, and
blew from the bay in squalls; yet, by means of the head-way we had
got, we luffed close in, till the anchor, which still hung at our bow,
brought us up in fifty-six fathoms.
Soon after we had thus got to anchor in the mouth of the bay, we
discovered a sail making toward us, which we had no doubt was one
of our squadron, and which, on a nearer approach, we found to be the
Tryal sloop; whereupon, we immediately dispatched some of our hands
to her assistance, by whose means she was brought to anchor between
us and the land. We soon learnt that she had by no means been exempted
from the same calamities by which we had been so severely afflicted;
for Captain Saunders, her commander, waiting on the commodore,
informed him, that he had buried thirty-four men out of his small
complement, and those that remained alive were so universally
afflicted with the scurvy, that only himself, his lieutenant, and
three of the men were able to stand by the sails.
It was on the 12th about noon that the Tryal came to anchor within us,
when we carried our hawsers on board her, in order to warp our ship
nearer the shore; but the wind coming off the land in violent gusts,
prevented our mooring in the intended birth. Indeed our principal
attention was now devoted to a business of rather more importance, as
we were now anxiously employed in sending on shore materials to
erect tents for the reception of the sick, who died rapidly on board.
Doubtless the distemper was considerably augmented by the stench and
filthiness in which they lay; for the number of the sick was so great,
and so few of them could be spared from the necessary duty of the
sails to look after them, that it was impossible to avoid a great
relaxation in regard to cleanliness, so that the ship was extremely
loathsome between decks. Notwithstanding our desire to free the sick
from their present hateful situation, and their own extreme eagerness
to get on shore, we had not hands enough to prepare the tents
for their reception sooner than the 16th; but on that and the two
following days we got them all on shore, to the number of an hundred
and sixty-seven persons, besides twelve or fourteen who died in the
boats on being exposed to the fresh air. The greatest part of our sick
were so infirm, that we had to carry them out of the ship in their
hammocks, and to convey them afterwards in the same manner from
the water-side to the tents, over a stony beach. This was a work of
considerable fatigue to the few who remained healthy; and therefore
our commodore, according to his accustomed humanity, not only
assisted in this himself, but obliged all his officers to give their
helping-hand.
The extreme weakness of our sick may be collected, in some measure,
from the numbers that died after they got on shore. It has generally
been found that the land, and the refreshments it affords, very
soon produce recovery in most stages of the scurvy, and we flattered
ourselves that those who had not perished on their first exposure to
the open air, but had lived to be placed in the tents, would have
been speedily restored to health and vigour. Yet to our great
mortification, it was nearly twenty days after they landed, before
the mortality entirely ceased, and for the first ten or twelve days we
rarely buried less than six each day, and many of those who survived
recovered by very slow and insensible degrees. Those, indeed, who had
sufficient strength, at their first getting on shore, to creep out
of the tents, and to crawl about, were soon relieved, and speedily
recovered their health and strength: But, in the rest, the disease
seemed to have attained a degree of inveteracy altogether without
example.
Before proceeding to any farther detail of our proceeding, I think it
necessary to give a distinct account of this island of Juan Fernandez,
including its situation, productions, and conveniences. We were well
enabled to be minutely instructed in these particulars, during our
three months stay at this island; and its advantages will merit a
circumstantial description, as it is the only commodious place in
these seas, where British cruizers can refresh and recover their men,
after passing round Caps Horn, and where they may remain for some
time without alarming the Spanish coast. Commodore Anson, indeed, was
particularly industrious, in directing the roads and coasts of this
island to be surveyed, and other observations of all kinds to be made;
knowing, from his own experience, of how great benefit these materials
might prove hereafter, to any British cruizers in these seas. For the
uncertainty we were in of its position, and our standing in for
the main on the 28th May, as formerly related, cost us the lives of
between seventy and eighty of our men; from which fatal loss we might
have been saved, had we possessed such an account of its situation as
we could have fully depended upon.
The island of Juan Fernandez is in lat. 33° 40'S. [long. 77° 30'
W.] one hundred marine leagues or five degrees of longitude from
the continent of Chili. It is said to have received its name from a
Spaniard who formerly procured a grant of it, and resided there for
some time with the view of forming a settlement, but abandoned it
afterwards.[1] On approaching its northern side from the east, it
appears a large congeries of lofty peaked mountains, the shore in
most places being composed of high precipitous rocks, presenting three
several bays, East bay, Cumberland bay, and West bay, the second only
being of any extent, and is by far the best, in which we moored. The
island itself is of an irregular triangular figure; one side of which,
facing the N.E. contains these three bays. Its greatest extent is
between four and five leagues, and its greatest breadth something
less than two. The only safe anchorage is on the N.E. side, where, as
already mentioned, are the three bays; the middlemost of which, named
Cumberland bay, is the widest and deepest, and in all respects by much
the best; for the other two, named East and West bays, are scarcely
more than good landing places, where boats may conveniently put casks
on shore for water. Cumberland bay is well secured to the southward,
and is only exposed from the N. by W. to the E. by S. and as the
northerly winds seldom blow in that climate, and never with any
violence, the danger from that quarter is not worth attending to. This
last-mentioned bay is by far the most commodious road in the island,
and it is advisable for all ships to anchor on its western side,
within little more than two cables length of the beach, where they may
ride in forty fathoms, and be sheltered, in a great measure, from a
large heavy sea which comes rolling in, whenever the wind blows from
eastern or western quarters. It is expedient, however, to _cackle_ or
arm the cables with an iron chain, or with good rounding, for five or
six fathoms from the anchor, to secure them from being rubbed by the
foulness of the ground.[2]
[Footnote 1: In the original, the description given of this island
refers to large engraved views, which could not be inserted in our
octavo form, so as to be of the smallest utility.--E.]
[Footnote 2: Cumberland bay is called _La Baya_ by the Spaniards, who
seem now to have established a fort here. East bay is by them called
_Puerta de Juan Fernandez_. There is yet a fourth bay, or small
indentation of the coast, with a landing place and stream of water,
named _Puerta Ingles_, or Sugar-loaf bay, between West bay and the
north point of the island.--E.]
I have already observed that a northerly wind, to which alone this bay
is directly exposed, very seldom blew while we were there; and, as it
was then winter, such may be supposed less frequent in other seasons.
In those few instances when the wind was in that quarter, it did not
blow with any great force, which might be owing to the high lands,
south of the bay, giving a check to its force; for we had reason to
believe that it blew with considerable force a few leagues out at
sea, since it sometimes drove a prodigious sea before it into the bay,
during which we rode forecastle in. Though the northerly winds are
never to be apprehended in this bay, yet the southerly winds, which
generally prevail here, frequently blow off the land in violent gusts
and squalls, which seldom lasted, however, longer than two or
three minutes. This seems to be owing to the high hills, in the
neighbourhood of the bay, obstructing the southern gale; as the wind,
collected by this means, at last forces its passage through the narrow
vallies; which, like so many funnels, both facilitate its escape,
and increase its violence. These frequent and sudden guests make it
difficult for a ship to work in with the wind offshore, or to keep a
clear hawse, when anchored.
The northern part of this island is composed of high craggy hills,
many of them inaccessible, though generally covered with trees. The
soil of this part is loose and shallow, so that very large trees in
the hills frequently perish for want of root, and are then easily
overturned. This circumstance occasioned the death of one of our men,
who, being on the hills in search of goats, caught hold of a tree
upon a declivity to assist him in his ascent, and this giving way, he
rolled down the hill; and though, in his fall, he fastened on another
tree of considerable bulk, this also gave way, and he fell among the
rocks, where he was dashed to pieces. Mr Brett, also, having rested
his back against a tree, near as large about as himself, which grew on
a slope, it gave way with him, and he fell to a considerable distance,
though without receiving any injury. Our prisoners, whom, as will
appear in the sequel, we afterwards brought to this island, remarked
that the appearance of the hills in some parts resembled that of the
mountains in Chili where gold is found; so that it is not impossible
that mines might be discovered here. In some places we observed
several hills of a peculiar red earth, exceeding vermillion in colour,
which perhaps, on examination, might prove useful for many purposes.
The southern, or rather S.W. part of the island, is widely different
from the rest; being destitute of trees, dry, stony, and very flat and
low, compared, with the hills on the northern part. This part of
the island is never frequented by ships, being surrounded by a steep
shore, and having little or no fresh water; besides which, it is
exposed to the southerly winds, which generally blow here the whole
year round, and with great violence in the antarctic winter.
The trees, of which the woods in the northern part of the island are
composed, are mostly aromatic, and of many different sorts. There are
none of them of a size to yield any considerable timber, except those
we called myrtle-trees, which are the largest on the island, and
supplied us with all the timber we used; yet even these would not
work to a greater length than forty feet. The top of the myrtle is
circular, and as uniform and regular as if clipped round by art. It
bears an excrescence like moss on its bark, having the taste and smell
of garlic, and was used instead of it by our people. We found here
the pimento, and the cabbage-tree, but in no great quantity. Besides
these, there were a great number of plants of various kinds, which
we were not botanists enough to describe or attend to. We found
here, however, almost all the vegetables that are usually esteemed
peculiarly adapted to the cure of those scorbutic disorders which are
contracted by salt diet and long voyages, as we had great quantities
of water-cresses and purslain, with excellent wild sorrel, and a vast
profusion of turnips and Sicilian radishes, which two last, having a
strong resemblance to each other, were confounded by our people under
the general name of turnips. We usually preferred the tops of the
turnips to the roots, which we generally found stringy, though some
of them were free from that exception, and remarkably good.
These vegetables, with the fish and flesh we got here, to be more
particularly described hereafter, were not only exceedingly grateful
to our palates after the long course of salt diet to which we had
been confined, but were likewise of the most salutary consequence in
recovering and envigorating our sick, and of no mean service to us who
were well, by destroying the lurking seeds of the scurvy, from which
none of us, perhaps, were totally exempted, and in refreshing and
restoring us to our wonted strength and activity. To the vegetables
already mentioned, of which we made perpetual use, I must add that we
found many acres of ground covered with oats and clover. There were
some few cabbage-trees, as before observed, but these grew generally
on precipices and in dangerous situations, and as it was necessary to
cut down a large tree to procure a single cabbage, we were rarely able
to indulge in this dainty.
The excellence of the climate, and the looseness of the soil, renders
this island extremely proper for all kinds of cultivation: for, if
the ground be any where accidentally turned up, it becomes immediately
overgrown with turnips and Sicilian radishes. Our commodore,
therefore, having with him garden-seeds of all kinds, and stones of
different kinds of fruits, sowed here lettuces, carrots, and other
garden-plants, and set in the woods great numbers of plumb, apricot,
and peach-stones, for the better accommodation of our countrymen who
might hereafter touch at this island. These last have since thriven
most remarkably, as has been since learnt by Mr Anson. For some
Spanish gentlemen having been taken on their passage from Lima to
Spain, and brought to England, having procured leave to wait upon him,
to thank him for his generosity and humanity to his prisoners, some
of whom were their relations, and foiling into discourse about his
transactions in the South Seas, asked if he had not planted a great
number of fruit-stones on the island of Juan Fernandez, as their late
navigators had discovered there a great many peach and apricot trees,
which, being fruits not observed there before, they supposed to have
been produced from kernels set by him.
This may suffice in general as to the soil and vegetable productions
of Juan Fernandez; but the face of the country, at least of its
northern part, is so extremely singular as to require a particular
consideration. I have already noticed the wild and inhospitable
appearance of it to us at first sight, and the gradual improvement
of its uncouth landscape as we drew nearer, till we were at last
captivated by the numerous beauties we discovered on landing. During
our residence, we found the interior to fall no ways short of the
sanguine prepossessions we at first entertained. For the woods, which
covered most of even the steepest hills, were free from all bushes and
underwood, affording an easy passage through every part of them; and
the irregularities of the hills and precipices, in the northern part
of the island, traced out, by their various combinations, a great
number of romantic vallies, most of which were pervaded by streams
of the purest water, which tumbled in beautiful cascades from rock to
rock, as the bottoms of the vallies happened to be broken into sudden
descents by the course of the neighbouring hills. Some particular
spots occurred in these vallies where the shade and fragrance of the
contiguous woods, the loftiness of the overhanging rocks, and the
transparency and frequent cascades of the streams, presented scenes of
such elegance and dignity, as would with difficulty be rivalled in
any other part of the globe. Here, perhaps, the simple productions of
unassisted nature may be said to excel all the fictitious descriptions
of the most fertile imagination.
The piece of ground which the commodore chose in which to pitch his
tent, was a small lawn on a gentle ascent, about half a mile from
the sea. In front of the tent was a large avenue, opening through the
woods to the shore, and sloping with a gentle descent to the water,
having a prospect of the bay and the ships at anchor. This lawn was
screened behind by a wood of tall myrtle trees, sweeping round in a
crescent form, like a theatre, the slope on which the wood grew rising
more rapidly than the open lawn, yet not so much but that the hills
and precipices of the interior towered considerably above the tops of
the trees, and added greatly to the beauty and grandeur of the view.
There were also two streams of water, pure as the finest crystal,
which ran to the right and left of the tent within the distance of an
hundred yards, and which, shaded by trees skirting either side of the
lawn, completed the symmetry of the whole.
It only now remains that we should mention the animals and provisions
which we met with at this island. Former writers have related that
this island abounded with vast numbers of goats, and their accounts
are not to be questioned, as this place was the usual resort of the
buccaneers and privateers who used formerly to frequent these seas.
There are two instances, one of a _musquito_ Indian, and the other of
Alexander Selkirk, a Scotsman, who were left here by their respective
ships, and lived alone upon the island for some years, and were
consequently no strangers to its productions. Selkirk, who was here
the last, after a stay of between four and five years, was taken off
by the Duke and Duchess privateers, of Bristol, as may be seen at
large in the journal of their voyage. His manner of life, during his
solitude, was very remarkable in most particulars; but he relates one
circumstance, which was so strongly verified by our own experience,
that it seems worthy of being mentioned. He tells us, as he often
caught more goats than he had occasion for, that he sometimes marked
their ears, and let them go. This was about thirty-two years before
our arrival, yet it happened that the first goat killed by our people
after they landed, had its ears slit; whence we concluded that it had
doubtless been formerly caught by Selkirk. This was indeed an animal
of a most venerable aspect, dignified with a most majestic beard, and
bearing many other marks of great age. During our residence, we
met with others marked in the same manner, all the males being
distinguished by exuberant beards, with every other characteristic of
extreme age.
The great number of goats, which former writers describe as having
been found on this island, were very much diminished before our
arrival. For the Spaniards, aware of the advantages derived by the
buccaneers and pirates from the goats-flesh they here procured,
have endeavoured to extirpate the breed, on purpose to deprive their
enemies of this resource. For this purpose, they put on shore
great numbers of large dogs, which have greatly increased, and have
destroyed all the goats in the accessible pans of the country; so
that there were only, when we were there, a few among the crags and
precipices, where the dogs cannot follow them. These remaining goats
are divided into separate flocks, of twenty or thirty each, which
inhabit distinct fastnesses, and never mingle with each other, so
that we found it exceedingly difficult to kill them; yet we were so
desirous of their flesh, which we all agreed resembled venison, that
we came, I believe, to the knowledge of all their haunts and flocks;
and, by comparing their numbers, it was conceived that they scarcely
exceeded two hundred on the whole island. I once witnessed a
remarkable contest between a flock of goats and a number of dogs.
Going in our boat into the East bay, we perceived some dogs running
very eagerly upon the foot, and willing to see what game they were in
pursuit of, we rested some time on our oars to observe them, when
at last they took to a hill, on the ridge of which we saw a flock
of goats drawn up for their reception. There was a very narrow path
leading to the ridge, skirted on each side by precipices; and here
the master he-goat of the flock posted himself fronting the enemy, the
rest of the goats being all behind him, on more open ground. As the
ridge was inaccessible by any other path, except where this champion
stood, though the dogs ran up the hill with great alacrity, yet, when
they came within twenty yards, not daring to encounter him, as he
would infallibly have driven them down the precipice, they gave over
the chase, and lay down at that distance, panting at a great rate.
These dogs, which are masters of all the accessible parts of the
island, are of various kinds, some of them very large, and have
multiplied to a prodigious degree. They sometimes came down to our
habitations under night, and stole our provisions; and once or twice
they set upon single persons, but, assistance being at hand, they were
driven away, without doing any mischief. As it is now rare for any
goats to fall in their way, we conceived that they lived principally
on young seals; and some of our people, having the curiosity to kill
dogs sometimes, and dress them, seemed to agree that they had a fishy
taste.
Goats-flesh being scarce, as we were rarely able to kill above one in
a day, and our people growing tired of fish, which abounded at this
place, they at last condescended to eat seals, which they came by
degrees to relish, calling it _lamb_. As the seal, of which numbers
haunt this island, has been often mentioned by former writers, it
seems unnecessary to say any thing particular respecting that animal
in this place. There is, however, another amphibious animal to be met
with here, called the _sea-lion_, having some resemblance to a seal,
but much larger, which I conceive may merit a particular description.
This too we eat, under the denomination of beef. When arrived at full
size, the sea-lion is between twelve and twenty feet in length, and
from eight to fifteen feet in circumference. They are extremely fat,
so that, below the skin, which is an inch thick, there is at least
a foot deep of fat, before coming to the lean or bones, and we
experienced more than once, that the fat of some of the largest
afforded us a butt of oil. They are also very full of blood; for, if
deeply wounded in a dozen places, there will instantly gush out as
many fountains of blood, spouting to a considerable distance. To try
what quantity of blood one of them might contain, we shot one first,
and then cut its throat, measuring the blood which flowed, and found
that we got at least two hogsheads, besides a considerable quantity
remaining in the vessels of the animal.
Their skins are covered with short hair of a light dun colour; but
their tails and fins, which serve them for feet on shore, are almost
black. These fore-feet, or fins, are divided at the ends like fingers,
the web which joins them not reaching to the extremities, and each
of these fingers is furnished with a nail. They have a distant
resemblance to an overgrown seal; though in some particulars there
are manifest differences between these two animals, besides the vast
disproportion in size. The males especially are remarkably dissimilar,
having a large snout, or trunk, hanging down five or six inches beyond
the extremity of the upper jaw, which renders the countenances of the
male and female easily distinguishable from each other. One of the
largest of these males, who was master of a large flock of females,
and drove off all the other males, got from our sailors the name of
the bashaw, from that circumstance. These animals divide their time
between the sea and the land, continuing at sea all summer, and coming
on shore at the setting in of winter, during all which season they
reside on the land. In this interval they engender and bring forth
their young, having generally two at a birth, which are suckled by the
dams, the young at first being as large as a full-grown seal.
During the time they continue on shore, they feed on the grass and
other plants which grow near the banks of fresh-water streams; and,
when not employed in feeding, sleep in herds in the most miry places
they can find. As they seem of a very lethargic disposition, and are
not easily awakened, each herd was observed to place some of their
males at a distance, in the nature of centinels, who never failed to
alarm them when any one attempted to molest, or even to approach them.
The noise they make is very loud, and of different kinds; sometimes
grunting like hogs, and at other times snorting like horses in full
vigour. Especially the males have often furious battles, principally
about their females; and we were one day extremely surprised at seeing
two animals, which at first appeared quite different from any we
had before observed; but on a nearer approach, they proved to be two
sea-lions, which had been goring each other with their teeth, and
were all covered over with blood. The bashaw, formerly mentioned, who
generally lay surrounded by a seraglio of females, to which no other
male dared approach, had not acquired that envied pre-eminence without
many bloody contests, of which the marks remained in numerous scars in
every part of his body.
We killed many of these animals for food, particularly for their
hearts and tongues, which we esteemed exceeding good eating, and
preferable even to those of bullocks. In general there was no
difficulty in killing them, as they are incapable either of flight or
resistance, their motion being the most unwieldy that can be imagined,
and all the time they are in motion, their blubber is agitated
in large waves under the skin. One day, a sailor being carelessly
employed in skinning a young sea-lion, the female from whom he had
taken it, came upon him unperceived, and getting his head into her
mouth, scored his skull in notches with her teeth in many places,
and wounded him so desperately that he died in a few days, though all
possible care was taken of him.[3]
[Footnote 3: There are two species of the seal tribe which have
received the name of sea-lion; the phoca leonina, or bottle-nosed
seal, which is that of the text; and the phoca jubata, or maned seal,
which is the sea-lion of some other writers. These two species are
remarkably distinguishable from each other, especially the moles: The
bottle-nosed seal having a trunk, snout, or long projection, on the
upper jaw; while the male of the maned seal has his neck covered
with a long flowing mane. The latter is also much larger, the males
sometimes reaching twenty-five feet in length, and weighing fifteen
or sixteen hundred weight. Their colour is reddish, and their voice
resembles the bellowing of bulls. The former are chiefly found in the
Southern Pacific; while the latter frequent the northern parts of the
same ocean.--E.]
These are the principal animals which we found upon the island of
Juan Fernandez. We saw very few birds, and these were chiefly hawks,
blackbirds, owls, and hummingbirds. We saw not the _paradela_,[4]
which burrows in the ground, and which former writers mention to be
found here; but as we often met with their holes, we supposed that the
wild dogs had destroyed them, as they have almost done the cats; for
these were very numerous when Selkirk was here, though we did not see
above two or three during our whole stay. The rats, however, still
keep their ground, and continue here in great numbers, and were very
troublesome to us, by infesting our tents in the night.
[Footnote 4: This name is inexplicable; but, from the context, appears
to refer to some animal of the cavia genus, resembling the rabbit:
Besides, a small islet, a short way S.W. of Juan Fernandez, is named
Isla de Conejos, or Rabbit Island.--E.]
That which furnished us with the most delicious of our repasts, while
at this island, still remains to be described. This was the fish, with
which the whole bay was most abundantly stored, and in the greatest
variety. We found here cod of prodigious size; and by the report of
some of our crew, who had been formerly employed in the Newfoundland
fishery, not less plentiful than on the banks of that island. We had
also cavallies, gropers, large breams, maids, silver-fish, congers of
a particular kind; and above all, a black fish which we esteemed most,
called by some the chimney-sweeper, in shape somewhat resembling a
carp. The beach, indeed, was every where so full of rocks and loose
stones, that there was no possibility of hauling the seyne; but with
hooks and lines we caught what numbers we pleased, so that a boat with
only two or three lines, would return loaded with fish in two or
three hours. The only interruption we ever met with arose from great
quantities of dog-fish and large sharks, which sometimes attended our
boats, and prevented our sport.
Besides these fish, we found one other delicacy in greater perfection,
both as to size, quantity, and flavour, than is to be met with perhaps
in any other part of the world. This was sea craw-fish, usually
weighing eight or nine pounds each, of a most excellent taste, and
in such vast numbers near the edge of the water, that our boat-hooks
often struck into them in putting the boats to and from the shore.
These are the most material articles relating to the accommodations,
soil, vegetables, animals, and other productions of the island of Juan
Fernandez, by which it will distinctly appear how admirably this place
was adapted for recovering us from the deplorable situation to which
we had been reduced by our tedious and unfortunate navigation round
Cape Horn. Having thus given the reader some idea of the situation and
circumstances of this island, in which we resided for six months, I
shall now proceed to relate all that occurred to us in that period,
resuming the narrative from the 18th of June, on which day the Tryal
sloop, having been driven out by a squall three days before, came
again to her moorings, on which day also we finished sending our sick
on shore, being about eight days after our first anchoring at this
island.