To get to the house one takes a steamer to the head of the loch, and
from there old Hughie drives one in the coach, and deposits one at the
cross-roads where the turf, short and green, is cut into the shape of a
heart. On this green heart, in the old days, the girls and men of the
glen were married. They stood side by side on the upper part of the
heart, which is indented, and the minister stood at the point and
wedded the pair. Here one leaves the coach, and a "machine" must take
one on to the little house. A red creeper grows up its white walls,
and from the terrace in front of the house one looks down upon the
little Presbyterian church and the village, and these in their turn
look on to the loch and the hills on the other side.
The people in the village afford one a good deal of amusement, but we
have observed that the conversation is always about theology or the
Royal Family. There is one story of the late Queen and the crown of
Scotland which I have heard repeated many times with the utmost gravity
in the Highlands.
"A gran' wumman," say the old villagers, "but we were no gaein' tae gie
her the croon o' Scotland. Na, na. She would hae liked fine tae hev
gotten it, but we were no gaein' tae gie her the croon o' Scotland.
Ye'll mind when she went tae Scotland, it was the foremost thing that
she spiered tae see. And when they showed it tae her, 'I would like
fine tae pit it on ma heid,' said she. But they said '_No_.' And syne
she says, 'Wad ye no let me haud it in ma haund?' But they say '_No_.'
'Weel,' she says, 'juist haud it aboon ma heid, and let me staun'
underneath it.' But they said, '_No_.'"
The villagers formed our only society until Evan Sinclair's tenants,
who were known as "the folk at the big hoose," came to call upon us.
It was very difficult indeed, and for some time we could hardly believe
that these were the Finlaysons whom we had met at Clarkham, and who, we
now remembered, had told us that they were going to take a place in
Scotland. The change in the Finlaysons is startling and complete. It
has taken them exactly two months to become Highlanders, and it is not
too much to affirm that now the whole family may be said to reek of
tartan. Only Mrs. Finlayson is unaffected by her life in the
Highlands, although she says that she knows it is fashionable to be
Scottish. "And so written up as it is at present," she adds; "and all
the best people taking the deer-moors. Papa and the girls think all
the world of Scotland. But no one can say it is comfortable, I'm sure."
The Finlaysons have a piper, and young Mr. Finlayson wears a kilt, and
I think they are, without exception, the most strenuous supporters of
Scottish customs I have ever met. The young ladies, who had always
been associated in our mind with silk dresses and thin shoes, came to
call clad in the very shortest and roughest tweed skirts that I have
ever seen; and old Mr. Finlayson, whose mother was a Robinson, has
discovered that that is pretty much the same as being a Robertson, and
that therefore, in some mysterious way, he is entitled to wear the
Macdonald tartan. They asked us to tea in a very polite and friendly
way, and the old rooms were shown off to us with a good deal of pride.
The architecture of the house seemed to throw a reflected glory on Mr.
Finlayson.
"Pure Early Scottish," he said, pointing to the tall narrow windows
with their shelving ledges.
"So dangerous," said Mrs. Finlayson, "for the servants cleaning the
windows."
The drawing-room vases were all filled with heather, and the room smelt
of damp dog and herrings. The Miss Finlaysons came in to tea in thick
skirts and brogues, and they wore tartan tam-o'-shanters very
becomingly placed upon their heads, and affixed to their hair with
ornamental bonnet-pins. They ate cake with damp red hands, and seemed
to pride themselves upon the fish-scales which still clung to their
skirts, and imparted the rather unpleasant odour which I noticed in the
room. Young Finlayson in his kilt showed a great expanse of red knee,
and told tales of remarks made to him by the boatmen, which he
considered equal to anything in Ian Maclaren's books.
Mrs. Finlayson took us out after tea to see the garden and tennis-court
and the game-larder. "I always like a walled garden," she said; "it is
so stylish." Mr. Finlayson found a reflected glory even in the loch
and the hills, and he waved his fat hand towards them, and said: "We
are able to do you a nice bit of view here, aren't we?"
"I tell papa," said Mrs. Finlayson, "that he will ruin the girls for
anything else after this. The only thing we regret is the want of
society. However, a few of the best people round about have called,
and we are giving quite an informal little dinner-party to-morrow
night."
Mrs. Finlayson then invited us to dinner, and when we hesitated, on the
plea that we should have one or two friends with us, Mrs. Finlayson, in
the most hospitable manner possible, said that she always had a
"profusion on their own table," so there was nothing for it but to
accept her invitation.
The dinner was one of those rather purposeless feasts which are given
in the country, and the Finlaysons' neighbours who had been bidden to
it bore upon their faces the peculiarly homeless look which one
observes in the expressions of one's men friends especially, when they
go out to a rural dinner--the look that says as plainly as possible
that they are moving about in worlds not realized nor found
particularly comfortable, and that they would infinitely prefer their
own armchairs at home.
The minister took Palestrina in to dinner, and occupied himself
throughout the evening by putting the most searching questions to her
of an inquisitive nature. He asked how many servants we had, whether
we were satisfied with our cook, where we came from, and why we had
come. And he did it all with such keen interest and intelligence that
Palestrina admitted that she really had felt flattered rather than
provoked. His friend Evan Sinclair, who, having let his house to the
Finlaysons, is living on a little farm close by, contradicted
everything that the minister said, and the two quarrelled the whole
evening.
Old Tyne Drum, who lives a good many miles away, but who with his wife
had already been to call upon us, brewed himself the very largest
glasses of whisky-toddy that I have ever seen, even on a big night at
mess, and he proposed healths and drank the steaming mixture throughout
dinner in a very commendable national spirit. His piper, who stood
behind his chair, refused at last to pour out any further libations,
and I heard him mutter to himself, "Ye'll no need tae say that Sandy
Macnichol ever helpit ye tae the deil."
Young Finlayson is always very jocose upon the subject of whisky, as
befits his ideas about the Highlands; and even the Misses Finlayson, in
their faithful loyalty to all things Scottish, were quite pleased with
Tyne Drum's performance, and would have scorned to look as though a
whisky-drinking laird was a novelty to them.
Mrs. Finlayson told Thomas, in a very severe manner, and in her
platform voice which I always find so impressive, that she considered
intemperance a sin, but that that was what came of all this nonsense
about Scotland. She gave him quite a lecture upon the subject, as
though he, being Scottish born, was responsible for the old laird's
backsliding.
When the unfortunate old gentleman came into the drawing-room to join
the ladies and sat down next him, Mrs. Finlayson looked at Thomas as
though she thought he was in some sort to blame for this behaviour.
Tyne Drum dropped heavily on to the ottoman, and I heard him say, "Do
you know my wife?"
"Yes," replied Thomas. "I have met her several times since we came to
the cottage."
"Hoo old should ye think she was?" (Tyne Drum is always broadly Doric
in his speech.) Thomas calculated that the lady must be a long way the
wrong side of sixty, and humbly suggested that she might perhaps be
forty-five.
"Presairve us!" said the Laird. "This lad here says my wife is
forty-five!" He began to sob bitterly, and, putting his handkerchief
to his eyes, cried, "My pretty wee Jeannie, my bonnie wee wife, wha
daurs tae say ye was forty-five!"
Thomas was so sorry for him and for what he had done that he did his
best to cheer him up by telling him that what he had meant to say was
twenty-five; but Tyne Drum was inconsolable, and went to sleep with the
tear-drops on his cheeks.
When we got home in the evening Palestrina said, "We are far behind the
Finlaysons in all things Scottish. I shall buy a Harris tweed skirt,
and you and Thomas must buy something too." So we drove down in the
coach to the ferry on a very wet and windy day to cross over to the
"toon."
Our place on the coach was shared with a Scot, who was the most
truculent defender of the Free Kirk I have ever met. He argued every
single point of his creed, and became quite abusive at last, as he
denounced the "Established" and all who belong to it.
The wind was high as we drove in the coach, and the rain fell heavily
once or twice, but the voice of the gentleman rose higher and higher as
the rain descended. Hughie, the coachman, chided him with no stint of
words, and at every burst of eloquence on the passenger's part he
remarked, "Anither worrd, and I'll pit ye in the ditch!"
This method of treating the argumentative passenger suggested the
possibility of the coach being overturned in order to punish him, and
Palestrina grew alarmed.
"I do hope," she said to Hughie, "that you will remember that we are
not all Wee Frees, and that therefore we do not all require the same
treatment meted out to us."
The guard at the back of the coach here showed his head over the pile
of boxes covered with tarpaulin on the roof, and called out, "Pit him
inside the coach wi' Mrs. Macfadyen, and she'll sort him! She'll gie
him the Gaelic!"
Hughie chuckled and remarked, "Ay, she's the gran' wumman wi' her
tongue!" And during the rest of the drive his threats to the eloquent
passenger took the form of, "Anither worrd, and I'll pit ye in wi' Mrs.
Macfadyen!"
There was a marked improvement in our friend's behaviour after this.
He was in great difficulties when he came to get into the ferry-boat.
It was easy enough to throw his first leg over the side while holding
on by a thole-pin, but the balance required to convey the remaining
limb into the boat was quite out of his power. And having made one or
two ineffectual hops on the beach with the shore-loving member, he
turned to the boatmen, and said gravely,--
"Lift in my leg, Angus! Juist gie me a hand wi' ma last leg!"
Palestrina chose the tweed for our coats and her skirt, and then we
walked up to the Castle and called on the Melfords, who told us that
Mrs. Fielden was coming to stay with them. They sang her praises, as
most people do; she has heaps of friends. Then Palestrina did some
shopping at the "flesher's" and the baker's, and we went down to the
ferry again--a boy behind us laden with queer-looking parcels
containing provisions, and Alloa yarn to knit into stockings, and
paper-bags with ginger-bread cakes in them. When we got in and sat
down under the brown sail of the heavy boat, the two sailors remained
in their places, and did not show the least sign of getting under way.
Thomas said to the elder of the two men, a fine old fellow with a face
such as one connects with stories of the Covenanters,--
"Why don't you get off?"
And the old man replied unmoved, "I'm waiting for the Lord."
Palestrina, who is sympathetic in every matter, put on an expression of
deep religious feeling, and we thought of the Irvingites, and wished
that we had Eliza Jamieson with us "to look it up." As far as we knew,
the Irvingites wait to perform every action until inspired to perform
it. We had heard that in the smallest matter, such as beginning to eat
their dinner, they will wait until this inspiration, as I suppose one
must call it, is given to them. The question then arose, how long
would it be before we would be likely to get under way? The two
sailors sat on without moving, and the elder of them cut a wedge of
tobacco and was filling his pipe, preparing to smoke. We wondered if
the Irvingites often waited for an inspiration in this contented way.
The big red-funnelled steamer from Greenock was, meanwhile, preparing
to depart. It had poured its daily output of tourists for their
half-hour's run in the town, which time they employ in buying mementoes
of the place, and we had hurried down to the sailing-boat to escape
this influx.
Thomas endeavoured to assist inspiration by saying it didn't seem much
use waiting any longer, and that as time was getting on, did not our
friend (the gray-bearded Covenanter) think that it was time to be
moving? The Covenanter wrinkled up his nose, which already was a good
deal wrinkled, and gazed upwards at the sail, or, as we interpreted it,
to Heaven. Palestrina pressed Thomas's hand, and said gently, "Don't
urge him, dear; we shall get off in time." And the younger sailor
said, "We are waiting for the Lord." So we knew that they were both
Irvingites, and the only scepticism that intruded itself upon us was
this: Suppose inspiration never came, how should we get home?
The steamer now began to move away from the pier, with a great churning
and hissing of water, and seething white foam fizzing round the staples
of the pier. A band began to play on board, and the paddles broke the
water with a fine sweep. Two youngsters on shore, to whom "the
stimmer" is a daily excitement, then called out in shrill, high voices,
"There's the Lord! She's aff!"
The _Lord of the Isles_ had moved off on her return journey to
Greenock, and the notes on Scottish religion which Palestrina was
carefully preparing were hastily destroyed. The _Lord_ had departed,
and we sailed across the loch without waiting any longer.
When we got home, we found the minister awaiting us in the
drawing-room, he having suggested that as we were not at home, he had
better stay till our return. I found out, in the course of
conversation, that he is a distant relation of old Captain
Jamieson--the Jamiesons' father--so we had quite a long talk about our
friends. The minister is one of those Scots whose national
characteristics are always stronger than individual character. Take
away his nationality from him, and Mr. Macorquodale would be nothing at
all. His qualities being entirely Scottish, it is only logical to
assume that if Mr. Macorquodale were not Scottish, he would be
non-existent.
Palestrina came out on to the little terrace where we were sitting, and
I explained to her that the minister was a cousin of the Jamiesons.
"How interesting!" said Palestrina in her usual kind way.
"Why?" said the minister. He has sandy hair and very round gray eyes,
and looks like a football player.
"Oh, I don't know," said my sister; "it's always interesting, isn't it,
to find that people are related?"
"Every one must have some relations," said Mr. Macorquodale; "and if my
choice had been given me, I do not think I should have chosen those
five gurrls."
"We like them so much," Palestrina said, smiling.
"Is that the truth?" said Mr. Macorquodale; and she replied firmly that
it was.
"Um umph!" he said, as though considering a perfectly new problem, and
then added: "Well, each man to his taste. How many of them have got
husbands?"
I replied that Kate was married and Gracie engaged.
"Gracie?" said the minister simply. "Was that the one with a nose like
a scone?"
We considered Grade's nose silently for a moment, and then admitted
that perhaps the simile was not unjust.
"How did she get him?" said the minister presently.
The minister has a curious way of eating, which fascinates one to look
at, while all the time there is a distinct feeling that an accident may
happen at any moment. When tea was brought out he accepted some, and
filled his mouth very full of cookie, stowing into it nearly a whole
one at a time, and then raised his tea-cup to his lips. He persists in
keeping his spoon in his cup as he drinks, and he prevents it from
tumbling out by holding it with his thumb. A long draught of tea is
then partaken of with a gurgling sound, and the minister swallows
audibly. It is almost impossible to prevent one's self watching this
process of eating and drinking during the whole of tea-time. For it
seems so uncertain whether the spoon will remain in its place, and the
cookie and the tea.
The minister is a very young man, with the pugnacity of an Edinburgh
High School boy, and with the awful truthfulness which distinguishes
his nation, but which is accentuated in such an alarming degree in a
minister of the Kirk.
"I sent Kate a scent-bottle when she married," he remarked. "I won it
at a bazaar for sixpence, so it was not expensive. I don't disapprove
of raffles," he added, although he had not been asked for this piece of
information--"that is, if ladies do not cheat over it, as they often
do." Palestrina bristled at the insinuation, and the minister consoled
her by saying: "Women sin in such wee ways--that's what I can't
understand about them. However," he said, "I have never known a woman
steal a thing yet that a man has not reaped some benefit by it. I can
quote authority for my views from Adam and Eve downwards, to the
newspapers of yesterday. I am engaged to be married myself, and I find
the subject of feminine ethics absorbing. Good-bye," he said
presently; "I hope you will not be disappointed with the clothes I hear
you've ordered."
Alas! the tweed coat and skirt in which my sister hoped to rival the
Miss Finlaysons proved an utter misfit, and she drove round the loch on
the following day to take the garments back. Palestrina had prepared a
severe reprimand for the tailor, but the old man took the wind out of
her sails by stopping in amazement at the first word of annoyance which
she uttered, and standing in the middle of the little fitting-room,
with a yellow tape measure round his neck, and a piece of chalk in his
hand, he shook his gray beard at us with something of apostolic
fervour, and thus addressed us:--
"I'm amazed at ye! Do ye ever consider the system of planets, and that
this world is one of the lesser points of light in space, and that even
here there are countless millions of human beings, full of great
resolves and high purposes. Get outside yourselves, ladies and
gentlemen, and realize in the magnitude of the universe, and the
immeasurable majesty of the planetary system, how small a thing is the
ill-fit of a jacket."
We felt much humbled, Palestrina and I. And it was only when we were
driving home afterwards that it even dimly suggested itself to us that
we had right on our side at all. "After all," Palestrina said, "the
coats did not fit; I really do not think he need have lectured us so
severely."
At the time, however, I confess that our feelings were distinctly
apologetic.
One wonders how a tailor who advanced the planetary system as a reproof
to complaining customers would get on in London, and one realizes that
English people have a great deal still to learn.