were two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who
thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge
to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to
Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back,
and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed
in my hand, and _haíked_ up to the mouth. We were off at eight
A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party,
including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping,
firing and galloping, to frighten the _Haràmis_, the road being very
dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of
this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On
entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he
rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The
whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men
with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two
men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here
he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired,
which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops;
and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper
way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where
with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and
told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk,
and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my
perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel
was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had
been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing
should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad,
as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are
said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels,
they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his
people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that
I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá,
and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single
person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined
to start on Thursday night. The journey will be accomplished in a very
short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to
manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from
all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are
in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the
look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that
I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be
delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week
on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to
say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my
health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach
me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the
latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily,
not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants
to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say,
there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their
word; God grant that he may.
“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another
shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.
“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was
expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that
if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow
night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an
escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my
host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths
live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave
any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our
present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents
are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any
certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take
place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man,
who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any
thing, is at another a thief and _haràmi_.”
“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of
horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.
“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one
of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the
success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had,
demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district
of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed
at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing:
that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe,
excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let
him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not
a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever
saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found
the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although
they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of
which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake
not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.
“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning
at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to
proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty
persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain
the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only
two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all
the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five,
including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before
us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the
Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of
barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no
milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall
be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been
sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the
first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far
exceeded my expectations.”
In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear,
but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October
7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I
shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings
his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before
this reaches you,” he says, “I shall be wending my way over
Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne
from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy
shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter,
think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”
The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved
for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine
D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he
should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years
preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an
English passport, as he intended to travel _à l’Anglaise_, for the
French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence
of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says
Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at
his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor,
to travel _en Prince_ with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But
think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s
Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity,
will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll—
No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the
preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be
added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind
me of the old proverb—‘_Tel Padron, tel Secretoire_.’ I will,
however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should
be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write
_hard_ scratches. I know it—I have only _steel_ pens.” So too
when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he
remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of
Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some
of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried
with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for
the assertion.”
Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the
punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha,
he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in
better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder than
any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some,
slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people
in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest
to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived
from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite
unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their
discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are
wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a
history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare
the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time
made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it
is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any
people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders
of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to
gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and
perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly
resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all
care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do
with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt
to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met
with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.
Pol me occidistis, amici,
Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas
Et demptus per vim menti gratissimus error.”
In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose
memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children,
and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three
jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep
will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes;
the wool from them gives him from four to six _haicks_ and a carpet;
his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it
is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”
_Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal._[126]
The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady
Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, _i.e._ dissenters. They refuse
to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language
is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art
of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined
towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires
consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur,
and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These
ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit
for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.
The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there
are many.
In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, _i.e._
swift dromedaries, are bred.
In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, _i.e._ writers.
In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use.
In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish
extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have
the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have
the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves;
but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are
never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe
Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.
In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the
property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of
substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater
liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of
Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a
master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay
tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The
principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of
whom ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors,
and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing
in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other,
but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five
hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and
they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’
journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of
haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak
Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.
The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in
pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the
arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance
of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew
than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than
the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend
over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at
Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in
Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the
same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting
at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the
northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the
north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which
is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and
reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed
or omitted.
The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown
over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin,
water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the
body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back,
and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to
prevent the earth from touching it.
Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even
in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath
has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water
is plentiful.”
The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in
any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah,
the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.
The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm,
is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.
Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although
the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active
in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in
its movements. I saw one June 8th.
The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called
the serpent’s enemy.
One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was
seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed
between the bull and mare.
The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are
diseases not known at Wád Nún.
The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the
rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very
curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the
whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It
is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The
common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of
the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates
the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.
There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and
hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out
and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a
smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom
lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami
abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero
Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they
come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey,
the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large
as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a
large dray-horse, red with white stripes and two horns turning back,
called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are
very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do,
out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted
chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species,
but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers;
but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna,
are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very
beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe
is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are,
however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes,
called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds
there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites
will take the meat out of the people’s hands.
_The direction of the Letter to Hámed Libbú._
Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who
now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and
rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú,
renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort
him. _Amen_.
* * * * *
[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding
H.M.S. _Scorpion_, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and
presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather,
and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were
unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here,
as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the
country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]
“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 11th November 1837.
“I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical
Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating
to the lower part of Sús, in the empire of Marocco; especially
with regard to the rivers Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, or Asaka, Wad
Mesah, &c.; as your visit to Wad Nún, in order to communicate with
Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of them, I take
the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions,
which may be found useful in collecting geographical information:
“I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of
Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett’s recent survey of that coast,
and an extract from Mr. Davidson’s letter from Wad Nún—if you
read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of
what we want:
“1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near
enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice
especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantín,
as the ruined town of Walidíyah is said there to exist in about
33° or 33° 15′ N. lat.—describe the situation of the towns,
and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles
in diameter said to exist—the opening, if any, must be very small.
“2. Four miles southward of Cape Gír, the Wád Sús falls into
the sea; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream
flows to the sea; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain
its name—Is it Wád Mésah?
“3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the
sea; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name.
“4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-stá, falls
into the Atlantic; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name.
“5. A few miles south of Cape Nún, a large river has its outlet;
what is its name?—Is it Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, Wad Asaka or Wad
Akassa, or Wád el Aksá, or none of them?
“6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about
twenty-five miles south of the last-mentioned?
“7. Does any river, called Wád Dar’ah, fall into the
sea? according to our maps it loses itself in the interior.
“8. The town of Wad Nún will probably be found at about forty
miles from the sea; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great
attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks,
rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar.
“9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long. of the place,
its height above the sea; describe its position, estimate its
population, &c.
“10. Does it stand on the banks of a river?—if so, what is its
name—where does it flow from—is it said to be dry in the summer
season—and is it at other times navigable for boats?
“11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all
mountain-peaks in sight from the town; and give the general direction
of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it.
“12. Ascertain how many days’ journey from Wad Nún (town) to
Akkah, to Sók-Assah, to Talent, and to ’Agadír; and, if possible,
obtain itineraries from natives.
“13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of
the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantín southward,
and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the
parallel of Mogadór, there is no object in keeping close in shore,
it would be better to run down at such an offing as will enable you
to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast
may conceal.
“14. From a little experience among the Moors, I may venture
to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will
soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gunpowder,
snuff or tea, but especially of the former, will obtain you all
you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor
before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations,
if you persuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and
at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt
you. Whether their watches keep time or not, is of no importance.
“15. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial
horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings,
and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer,
left on board, be kept while you are up the country.
“16. It will be very advisable to take with you your
Assistant-Surgeon, if he can be spared, as medical advice,
and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other
knowledge—besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention
to the natural history of the country; or at least to collect a few
plants and some geological specimens: if you can also take with you
a draughtsman it will be very desirable.
“17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable;
note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so
good as to preserve your _original_ notes and observations, and
mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need
hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good
interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogadór (or according
to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided
with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff,
tea, gaudily printed cotton handkerchiefs, which are valued in the
order I have placed them.
“Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these
suggestions, and heartily wishing you success,
“I have the honour to be, &c.
“To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. _Scorpion_.” “JOHN WASHINGTON.”
* * * * *
“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 26th October 1836.
“I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter,
dated Wad Nún the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear that
you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely
hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers
of sending you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find
you at Wad Nún, I write to say that any details relating to the
topography of your immediate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to
the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of
the country you have lately traversed, between Mogadór and Wad Nún.
“To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, requesting
you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state
on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may
be relied on or not.
“1. Does a river called Wad Dar’ah pass through the town of Wad
Nún, and does it flow to the sea?
“2. Do you know Wad Tegréwelt, and where is its outlet?
“3. Is Wad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad Mésah, and where is its
embouchure?
“4. Is the town of Mésah on its banks, and how far from the coast?
“5. How far south of the river Sús does the river Mésah flow
into the sea?
“6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet?
“7. How far is Mésah from ’Agúlú?
“8. How far is the town of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river
Sús? or from Santa Cruz?
“9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sús, named
Rás-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E.S.E. of Tárúdánt, running
fifty miles to the S.W. circling round Mount Elálah, then flowing
north fifty miles to join the river Sús, can you ascertain if this
is correct?
“10. How far is Tedsí from Tárúdánt?
“11. Riley mentions Wád-e-Stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz,
does it exist, and where?
“12. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the river Assah or
Mésah, and if so, how far from Mésah or from each other?
“13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is
it the river Reguela of Arlett’s chart?