INTRODUCTION

"Kings are thy nursing fathers and their queens thy nursing mothers."

From the reign of Edward the Confessor, the last sovereign of the royal

Saxon race, till the death of Elizabeth, the last Tudor queen, these

words of the old Hebrew prophet were literally applicable to the great

West Minster. When Edward knelt within the Benedictine chapel on

Thorneye, which had so miraculously withstood the ravages of the Danes,

and vowed to dedicate a new church on the same spot to the glory of God

and in the name of St. Peter, even his prophetic soul cannot have

foretold the high destiny of his beloved foundation. As the building

slowly grew during the last years of his reign, he conceived the idea

of its use as a sepulchre for himself and his successors. In his

visions he may even have foreseen the coronations of the English

sovereigns within its walls, his own canonisation, and the long

connection {4} between the throne and the monastery. All that the

words above imply would have appealed to the pious founder, but what of

his feelings could he have looked on through the centuries? He would

have seen much to vex, yet we venture to think he would have found

consolation, even in these latter days when the monks are no longer

here and the Roman Church has ceased to be the Church of his country.

Three hundred years after Edward's death came the destruction of his

church in the name of piety, but for this there was ample compensation

in the beautiful and stately buildings which were raised upon the ruins

of the old, and in the devotion to the first founder's memory shown by

Henry III. and his descendants. During the ages of faith, when the

Pope held sway over England, king after king gave liberally to the

fabric, while their queens may also be counted amongst the benefactors

to the West Minster. St. Peter, the patron saint to whom the church

was dedicated, was practically lost sight of in the halo which

surrounded the memory of the Saxon king, and it was to the English

royal saint rather than to the Hebrew apostle that the Abbey owed its

peculiar sanctity. From the first it was a royal foundation, a

building consecrated to the memory of a king, yet none of {5} these

considerations were weighed in the balance when the West Minster shared

in the general downfall of the English monasteries. The sovereign

himself laid violent hands upon the treasures presented by his pious

forefathers in honour of St. Edward, and the saint's body must surely

have turned in its coffin when, to save it from indignity, the monks

were obliged to lift it from the feretory and hide it beneath the

ground. The shrine which had been the pride of each king since the

days of Henry III., and honoured no less by the first Tudor sovereign,

was stripped of its glories: the shining golden top, which used to be

seen from end to end of the church, was melted down; the jewels, which

had been offered by royal worshipper and humble pilgrim alike, even the

precious images of sainted king and saintly evangelist, were ruthlessly

transferred to the palace treasury. None of these survive to-day, but

the mosaic pillars and the basement were concealed by the brethren

before they fled from the monastery, and the lower part of the shrine

was reconstructed by the daughter of the sovereign to whom the

devastation was due; to her also we owe the wooden top, which replaced

the glorious golden feretory. The monastic community, who were

restored to their home by the same {6} Queen, the "bloody" Mary of

Protestant history, survived a few years longer into the days of

Elizabeth, and the former intimate connection between the Crown and the

convent, severed with the final dismissal of the Abbot and monks, found

a pale reflection in the friendship which Elizabeth always showed to

the Dean of her new foundation. But the Maiden Queen was in very deed

the last royal person to whom Westminster Abbey owed substantial

benefits. She refounded the collegiate church, which finally took the

place of the monastery, and established Westminster School; before her

reign the only boys taught within the precincts were the few scholars

collected in the cloisters by the monks. She is, in fact, the

foundress of St. Peter's College, which thus owes its status as a royal

foundation to Queen Elizabeth.

Very rarely, however, in modern days has the church or the college been

honoured with a visit from the reigning sovereign _in propriâ personâ_.

At great functions, such as public funerals, the heir-apparent is

occasionally present, but the Crown is usually represented by a Court

official, and the Dean's stall, which is only vacated for the reigning

king or queen, has been occupied on very rare occasions in the last

hundred years. The Latin {7} play acted by the Westminster scholars

every winter term, was formerly a gala occasion on which royalty used

often to be present, but the old custom was gradually dropped. In the

year 1903, for the first time within the memory of this generation, a

royal person, H.R.H. the Duchess of Argyll, was present at the

performance.

With the last of the Tudors there is no doubt that the strong and

living bond between the palace and the Abbey was slackened, although it

has never been altogether snapped, nor will it be as long as the

coronation of our sovereigns continues to take place in Westminster

Abbey. Then and then only does the king resume all his ancient rights,

the collegiate body is practically deposed, and people realise that

their national church is really a royal peculiar. For while the kings

came less and less to St. Edward's shrine, their subjects in

ever-increasing numbers, like the pilgrims in olden times, were and are

drawn hither as by a magnet, till Westminster has become the sanctuary

of a nation, and is no longer the sepulchre of the seed royal. A plain

English squire, one of that "happy breed of men" to whom his native

land--"this little world, this precious stone set in a silver sea"--was

dearer than the blood of kings, was destined to inaugurate a new epoch

in the {8} annals of the Abbey. To this man, Oliver Cromwell, it is

that we owe the first conception of this church as a fitting

burial-place for our national worthies. From the State obsequies of

Admiral Blake, which were held here by Cromwell's command, has

germinated the seed which has borne fruit in the public funerals and in

the monuments, ordered and paid for by Parliament, of statesmen,

soldiers and sailors. The nineteenth century has closed, and there is

little space available in the Abbey for the worthies of the twentieth,

but the national feeling still turns instinctively to Westminster on

the death of a great man. For a long time past memorial services have

been substituted for the grave or cenotaph, so lavishly granted to

practically the first comer only a hundred years ago. Yet although the

material fabric of this ancient foundation can no longer receive her

sons within her bosom, her spirit is perhaps more alive than it has

ever been since her altars were demolished and the images of her saints

torn from their high places. No longer do the smoke of innumerable

candles and the fumes of incense blacken and obscure her arches, but

the spiritual breath of supplication and of thanksgiving still as of

yore ascends to heaven from this ancient church, consecrated by the

prayers of so many {9} past generations. The old order has changed,

and a Protestant form of worship has long taken the place of the florid

mass; what further changes the future has in store no man can prophesy.

But at present churchmen of all shades of religious feeling may worship

in this church with no extreme ritual to disturb their minds, and at

the same time with none of that irreverent and jarring carelessness in

the ordering of the services which vexed the souls of many in the days

long ago, before any of the present generation were born. On one

festival in the year, the Translation of St. Edward the Confessor, the

13th of October, Roman Catholics return in ever-increasing numbers to

the West Minster, which was once their own, and pilgrims may be seen

kneeling round the shrine, offering their devotions to the saint. On

this historic day the Abbey clergy, mindful also of the founder's

memory, keep his feast at their own service in the choir, by a sermon

preached in his honour, Protestants and Catholics thus uniting in a

common homage to the memory of the sainted English king.

There are several points of view whence the group of buildings formed

by the Abbey, St. Margaret's Church, Westminster Hall, and the Houses

of Parliament, can be seen above the {10} roofs of the houses, or

without any intervening obstruction. The foreigner who arrives at

Charing Cross first sees Westminster from the railway bridge, and gets

another and a nearer aspect as he reaches the bottom of Whitehall. Now

that passenger-steamers ply once again upon the river, many persons are

familiar with the unrivalled water approach, but no longer does the

wayfarer coming from the south or east hire a boat from the Lambeth

side, and thus follow the traditional route taken by St. Peter, when he

came to consecrate the original church on Thorneye. Although the Roman

road, which led from north to south of England, and crossed the river

here, is entirely lost sight of in London, the intending visitor will

be well advised if he walk to the Abbey by the parks. From the bridge

over the Serpentine he gets a distant view, and all the way, by Green

Park and St. James's, there are glimpses of the Westminster Towers. At

present, in the temporary absence of any building where the old

aquarium used to be, he has but to cross Birdcage Walk, take the old

Cockpit passage into Queen Anne's Gate, and from Dartmouth Street, just

across the way, he will see a magnificent view of the Abbey Church with

her small daughter, St Margaret, by her side. {11} As he approaches

nearer, down Tothill Street, the ugly Western Towers, which we owe in

the first instance to Wren's incapacity to understand Gothic

architecture, in the second to his successor Hawkesmore's want of taste

in the execution, become too prominent.

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[Illustration: View of the Abbey and St. Margaret's Church from

Whitehall]

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