concluding, that within this range we should find the spot where the
admiral had left some of his men, and which we supposed to be about the
middle of the coast. As we passed by the province called Xamaná, we sent
on shore one of the Indians, who had been taken in the previous voyage,
clothed, and carrying some trifles, which the admiral had ordered to
be given him. On that day died one of our sailors, a Biscayan, who had
been wounded in the affray with the Caribbees, when they were captured,
as I have already described, through their want of caution. As we were
proceeding along the coast, an opportunity was afforded for a boat to
go on shore to bury him, the boat being accompanied by two caravels to
protect it. When they reached the shore, a great number of Indians came
out to the boat, some of them wearing necklaces and ear-rings of gold,
and expressed a wish to accompany the Spaniards to the ships; but our
men refused to take them, because they had not received permission from
the admiral. When the Indians found that they would not take them, two
of them got into a small canoe, and went up to one of the caravels that
had put in to shore; they were received on board with great kindness,
and taken to the admiral’s ship, where, through the medium of an
interpreter, they related that a certain king had sent them to ascertain
who we were, and to invite us to land, adding that they had plenty of
gold, and also of provisions, to which we should be welcome. The admiral
desired that shirts, and caps, and other trifles, should be given to
each of them, and said that as he was going to the place where Guacamari
dwelt, he would not stop then, but that on a future day they would have
an opportunity of seeing him, and with that they departed. We continued
our route till we came to an harbour called Monte Cristi, where we
remained two days, in order to observe the position of the land; for the
admiral had an objection to the spot where his men had been left with
the view of forming a station. We went on shore therefore to observe
the formation of the land. There was a large river of excellent water
close by;[135] but the ground was inundated, and very ill-calculated for
habitation. As we went on making our observations on the river and the
land, some of our men found two dead bodies by the river’s side, one with
a rope round his neck, and the other with one round his foot: this was
on the first day of our landing. On the following day they found two
other corpses farther on, and one of these was observed to have a great
quantity of beard. This was regarded as a very suspicious circumstance
by many of our people, because, as I have already said, all the Indians
are beardless. This harbour is twelve leagues from the place where the
Spaniards had been left under the protection of Guacamari, the king of
that province, whom I suppose to be one of the chief men of the island.
After two days we set sail for that spot, but as it was late when we
arrived,[136] and there were some shoals, where the admiral’s ship had
been lost, we did not venture to put in close to the shore, but remained
that night at a little less than a league from the coast, waiting until
the morning, when we might enter securely. On that evening, a canoe,
containing five or six Indians, came out at a considerable distance
from where we were, and approached us with great celerity. The admiral
believing that he insured our safety by keeping the sails set, would
not wait for them; they, however, perseveringly rowed up to us within
gunshot, and then stopped to look at us; but when they saw that we did
not wait for them, they put back and went away. After we had anchored
that night at the spot in question,[137] the admiral ordered two guns to
be fired, to see if the Spaniards, who had remained with Guacamari, would
fire in return, for they also had guns with them; but when we received
no reply, and could not perceive any fires, nor the slightest symptom of
habitations on the spot, the spirits of our people became much depressed,
and they began to entertain the suspicion which the circumstances were
naturally calculated to excite. While all were in this desponding mood,
and when four or five hours of the night had passed away, the same canoe
which we had seen in the evening, came up, and the Indians with a loud
voice addressed the captain of the caravel which they first approached,
inquiring for the admiral; they were conducted to the admiral’s vessel,
but would not go on board till he had spoken to them, and they had asked
for a light, in order to assure themselves that it was he who conversed
with them. One of them was a cousin of Guacamari, who had been sent
by him once before: it appeared, that after they had turned back the
previous evening, they had been charged by Guacamari with two masks of
gold as a present; one for the admiral, the other for a captain who
had accompanied him on the former voyage. They remained on board for
three hours, talking with the admiral in the presence of all of us, he
showing much pleasure in their conversation, and inquiring respecting
the welfare of the Spaniards whom he had left behind. Guacamari’s cousin
replied, that those who remained were all well, but that some of them
had died of disease, and others had been killed in quarrels that had
arisen amongst them: he said also that the province had been invaded,
by two kings named Caonabó and Mayreni, who had burned the habitations
of the people; and that Guacamari was at some distance, lying ill of a
wound in his leg, which was the occasion of his not appearing, but that
he would come on the next day. The Indians then departed, saying they
would return on the following day with the said Guacamari, and left us
consoled for that night. Next morning we looked for Guacamari’s arrival;
and, meanwhile, some of our men landed by command of the admiral, and
went to the spot where the Spaniards had formerly been: they found the
building which they had inhabited, and which they had in some degree
fortified with a palisade, burnt and levelled with the ground; they
found also some rags and stuffs which the Indians had brought to throw
upon the house. They observed too that the Indians who were seen near
the spot, looked very shy, and dared not approach, but, on the contrary,
fled from them. This we thought did not look well; for the admiral had
told us that in the former voyage, when he arrived at this place, so many
came in canoes to see our people, that there was no keeping them off;
and as we now noticed that they were suspicious of us, it gave us a very
unfavourable impression. We threw trifles, such as buttons and beads,
towards them, in order to conciliate them, but only four, a relation
of Guacamari’s and three others, took courage to enter the boat, and
were rowed on board. When they were asked concerning the Spaniards, they
replied that all of them were dead: we had been told this already by one
of the Indians whom we had brought from Spain, and who had conversed
with the two Indians that on the former occasion came on board with
their canoe, but we had not believed it. Guacamari’s kinsman was asked
who had killed them: he replied that king Caonabó and king Mayreni had
made an attack upon them, and burnt the buildings on the spot, that many
were wounded in the affray, and among them Guacamari, who had received
a wound in his thigh, and had retired to some distance: he also stated
that he wished to go and fetch him; upon which some trifles were given to
him, and he took his departure for the place of Guacamari’s abode. All
that day we remained in expectation of them, and when we saw that they
did not come, many suspected that the Indians who had been on board the
night before, had been drowned; for they had had wine given them two or
three times, and they had come in a small canoe that might be easily
upset. The next morning the admiral went on shore, taking some of us
with him; we went to the spot where the settlement had been, and found
it utterly destroyed by fire, and the clothes of the Spaniards lying
about upon the grass, but on that occasion we saw no dead body. There
were many different opinions amongst us; some suspecting that Guacamari
himself was concerned in the betrayal and death of the Christians; others
thought not, because his own residence was burnt: so that it remained
a very doubtful question. The admiral ordered all the ground which had
been occupied by the fortifications of the Spaniards to be searched,
for he had left orders with them to bury all the gold that they might
get. While this was being done, the admiral wished to examine a spot at
about a league’s distance, which seemed to be suitable for building a
town, for there was yet time to do so;—and some of us went thither with
him, making our observations of the land as we went along the coast,
until we reached a village of seven or eight houses, which the Indians
forsook when they saw us approach, carrying away what they could, and
leaving the things which they could not remove, hidden amongst the
grass, around the houses. These people are so degraded that they have
not even the sense to select a fitting place to live in; those who dwell
on the shore, build for themselves the most miserable hovels that can
be imagined, and all the houses are so covered with grass and dampness,
that I wonder how they can contrive to exist. In these houses we found
many things belonging to the Spaniards, which it could not be supposed
they would have bartered; such as a very handsome Moorish mantle, which
had not been unfolded since it was brought from Spain, stockings and
pieces of cloth, also an anchor belonging to the ship which the admiral
had lost here on the previous voyage; with other articles, which the more
confirmed our suspicions. On examining some things which had been very
cautiously sewn up in a small basket, we found a man’s head wrapped up
with great care; this we judged might be the head of a father, or mother,
or of some person whom they much regarded: I have since heard that many
were found in the same state, which makes me believe that our first
impression was the true one. After this we returned. We went on the same
day to the site of the settlement; and when we arrived, we found many
Indians, who had regained their courage, bartering gold with our men:
they had bartered to the extent of a mark: we also learned that they had
shown where the bodies of eleven of the dead Spaniards were laid, which
were already covered with the grass that had grown over them; and they
all with one voice asserted that Caonabó and Mayreni had killed them; but
notwithstanding all this, we began to hear complaints that one of the
Spaniards had taken three women to himself, and another four, from whence
we drew the inference that jealousy was the cause of the misfortune that
had occurred. On the next morning, as no spot in that vicinity appeared
suitable for our making a settlement, the admiral ordered a caravel to go
in one direction to look for a convenient locality, while some of us went
with him another way. In the course of our explorations, we discovered a
harbour of great security; the neighbourhood of which, so far as regarded
the formation of the land, was excellent for habitation; but as it was
far from any mine of gold, the proximity of which was very desirable, the
admiral decided that we should settle in some spot which would give us
greater certainty of attaining that object, provided the position of the
land should prove equally convenient. On our return, we found the other
caravel arrived, in which Melchior and four or five other trustworthy
men had been exploring with a similar object. They reported that as they
went along the coast, a canoe came out to them containing two Indians,
one of whom was the brother of Guacamari, and was recognised by a pilot
who was in the caravel. When he questioned them as to their purpose, they
replied that Guacamari sent to beg the Spaniards to come on shore, as he
was residing near, with as many as fifty families around him. The chief
men of the party then went on shore in the boat, and proceeding to the
place where Guacamari was, found him stretched on his bed, complaining
of a severe wound. They conferred with him, and inquired respecting the
Spaniards; his reply was in accordance with the account already given by
the others, viz.—that they had been killed by Caonabó and Mayreni, who
also had wounded him in the thigh. In confirmation of his assertion,
he showed them the limb bound up, on seeing which, they concluded that
his statement was correct. At their departure he gave to each of them
a jewel of gold, according to his estimate of their respective merits.
The Indians beat the gold into very thin plates, in order to make masks
of it, and set it in a cement which they make for that purpose. Other
ornaments they make of it, to wear on the head and to hang in the ears
and nostrils, and for these also they require it to be thin. It is not
the costliness of the gold that they value in their ornaments, but its
showy appearance. Guacamari desired them by signs as well as he was able,
to tell the admiral that as he was thus wounded, he prayed him to have
the goodness to come to see him. The sailors told this to the admiral
when he arrived, and he resolved to go the next morning, for the spot
could be reached in three hours, being scarcely three leagues distance
from the place where we were; but as it would be the dinner-hour when we
arrived, we dined before we went on shore. After dinner, the admiral gave
orders that all the captains should come with their barges to proceed
to the shore, for already on that morning, previous to our departure,
the aforesaid brother of Guacamari had come to speak to the admiral
to urge his visit. Then the admiral went on shore accompanied by all
the principal officers, so richly dressed that they would have made a
distinguished appearance even in any of our chief cities: he took with
him some articles as presents, having already received from Guacamari a
certain quantity of gold, and it was reasonable that he should make a
commensurate response to his acts and expressions of good-will: Guacamari
had also provided himself with a present. When we arrived, we found him
stretched upon his bed, which was made of cotton net-work, and, according
to their custom, suspended.[138] He did not arise, but from his bed made
the best gesture of courtesy of which he was capable. He showed much
feeling; with tears in his eyes lamented the death of the Spaniards, and
began by explaining to the best of his power, how some died of disease,
others had gone to Caonabó in search of the mine of gold, and had there
been killed, and that the rest had been attacked and slain in their own
town. According to the appearance of the dead bodies, it was not two
months since this had happened. He then presented the admiral with eight
marks and a half of gold, five or six hundred pieces of jewellery of
various colours, and a cap with similar jewel-work, which I think they
must value very highly, because in it was a jewel which was presented
with great reverence. It appears to me that these people put more value
upon copper than gold. The surgeon of the fleet and myself being present,
the admiral told Guacamari that we were skilled in the treatment of
human disorders, and wished that he would shew us his wound. He replied
that he was willing; upon which I said it would be necessary that he
should, if possible, go out of the house, because we could not see well
on account of the place being darkened by the throng of people; to this
he consented, I think more from timidity than inclination, and left the
house leaning on the arm of the admiral. After he was seated, the surgeon
approached him and began to untie his bandage; then he told the admiral
that the wound was made with a _ciba_, by which he meant with a stone.
When the wound was uncovered, we went up to examine it: it is certain
that there was no more wound on that leg than on the other, although he
cunningly pretended that it pained him much. Ignorant as we were of the
facts, it was impossible to come to a definite conclusion. There were
certainly many proofs of an invasion by a hostile people, so that the
admiral was at a loss what to do. He with many others thought, however,
that for the present, and until they could ascertain the truth, they
ought to conceal their distrust; for, after ascertaining it, they would
be able to claim whatever indemnity they thought proper. That evening
Guacamari accompanied the admiral to the ships, and when they showed
him the horses and other objects of interest, their novelty struck him
with the greatest amazement: he took supper on board, and returned that
evening to his house. The admiral told him that he wished to settle there
and to build houses; to which he assented, but said that the place was
not wholesome, because it was very damp: and so it most certainly was.
All this passed through the interpretation of two of the Indians who had
gone to Spain in the last voyage, and who were the sole survivors of
seven that had embarked with us; five died on the voyage, and these but
narrowly escaped. The next day we anchored in that port: Guacamari sent
to know when the admiral intended leaving, and was told that he should do
so on the morrow. The same day Guacamari’s brother, and others with him,
came on board, bringing gold to barter: on the day of our departure also
they bartered a great quantity of gold. There were ten women on board,
of those which had been taken in the Caribbee islands, principally from
Burenquen, and it was observed that the brother of Guacamari spoke with
them; we think that he told them to make an effort to escape that night;
for certainly during our first sleep they dropped themselves quietly into
the water, and went on shore, so that by the time they were missed they
had reached such a distance that only four could be taken by the boats
which went in pursuit, and these were secured when just leaving the
water: they had to swim considerably more than half a league. The next
morning the admiral sent to desire that Guacamari would cause search to
be made for the women who had escaped in the night, and that he would
send them back to the ships. When the messengers arrived they found the
place forsaken and not a soul there; this made many openly declare their
suspicions, but others said they might have removed to another village,
as was their custom. That day we remained quiet, because the weather was
unfavourable for our departure. On the next morning the admiral resolved
that as the wind was adverse, it would be well to go with the boats to
inspect a harbour on the coast at two leagues distance further up,[139]
to see if the formation of the land was favourable for a settlement;
and we went thither with all the ship’s boats, leaving the ships in the
harbour. As we moved along the coast the people manifested a sense of
insecurity, and when we reached the spot to which we were bound all the
natives had fled. While we were walking about this place we found an
Indian stretched on the hill-side, close by the houses, with a gaping
wound in his shoulder caused by a dart, so that he had been disabled from
fleeing any further. The natives of this island fight with sharp darts,
which they discharge from cross-bows in the same manner as boys in Spain
shoot their small arrows, and which they send with considerable skill to
a great distance; and certainly upon an unarmed people these weapons are
calculated to do serious injury. The man told us that Caonabó and his
people had wounded him and burnt the houses of Guacamari. Thus we are
still kept in uncertainty respecting the death of our people, on account
of the paucity of information on which to form an opinion, and the
conflicting and equivocal character of the evidence we have obtained. We
did not find the position of the land in this port favourable for healthy
habitation, and the admiral resolved upon returning along the upper coast
by which we had come from Spain, because we had had tidings of gold in
that direction. But the weather was so adverse that it cost more labour
to sail thirty leagues in a backward direction than the whole voyage
from Spain; so that, what with the contrary wind and the length of the
passage, three months had elapsed before we set foot on land. It pleased
God, however, that through the check upon our progress caused by contrary
winds, we succeeded in finding the best and most suitable spot that
we could have selected for a settlement, where there was an excellent
harbour[140] and abundance of fish, an article of which we stood in great
need from the scarcity of meat. The fish caught here are very singular
and more wholesome than those of Spain. The climate does not allow the
fish to be kept from one day to another, for all animal food speedily
becomes unwholesome, on account of the alternate heat and damp.
The land is very rich for all purposes. Near the harbour there are two
rivers; one large,[141] and another of moderate breadth somewhat near
it: the water is of a very remarkable quality. On the bank of it is
being built a city called Marta,[142] one side of which is bounded by
the water with a ravine of cleft rock, so that at that part there is no
need of fortification; the other half is girt with a plantation of trees
so thick that a rabbit could scarcely pass through it; and so green
that fire will never be able to burn it. A channel has been commenced
for a branch of the river, which the managers say they will lead through
the middle of the settlement, and will place on it mills of all kinds
requiring to be worked by water. Great quantities of vegetables have been
planted, which certainly attain a more luxuriant growth here in eight
days than they would in Spain in twenty. We were frequently visited by
numbers of Indians, among whom were some of their caciques or chiefs, and
many women. They all came loaded with _ages_,[143] a sort of turnip, very
excellent for food, which we dressed in various ways. This food was so
nutritious as to prove a great support to all of us after the privations
we endured when at sea, which in truth were more severe than ever were
suffered by man; and as we could not tell what weather it would please
God to send us on our voyage, we were obliged to limit ourselves most
rigorously with regard to food, in order that, at all events, we might at
least have the means of supporting life: this _age_ the Caribbees call
_nabi_, and the Indians _hage_. The Indians barter gold, provisions, and
every thing they bring with them, for tags of laces, beads, and pins, and
pieces of porringers and dishes. They all, as I have said, go naked as
they were born, except the women of this island, who some of them wear a
covering of cotton, which they bind round their hips, while others use
grass and leaves of trees. When they wish to appear fulldressed, both men
and women paint themselves, some black, others white and various colours,
in so many devices that the effect is very laughable: they shave some
parts of their heads, and in others wear long tufts of matted hair, which
have an indescribably ridiculous appearance: in short, whatever would
be looked upon in our country as characteristic of a madman, is here
regarded by the highest of the Indians as a mark of distinction.