=PROCEEDINGS OF THE EXPEDITION=
TO EXPLORE THE
=NORTHERN COAST OF AFRICA,=
FROM
=TRIPOLY=
_EASTWARD;_
IN MDCCCXXI. AND MDCCCXXII.
COMPREHENDING AN ACCOUNT OF
=THE GREATER SYRTIS AND CYRENAICA;=
AND OF THE ANCIENT CITIES COMPOSING
=THE PENTAPOLIS.=
* * * * *
BY CAPTAIN F. W. BEECHEY, R.N., F.R.S.,
AND
H. W. BEECHEY, Esq., F.S.A.
* * * * *
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
* * * * *
MDCCCXXVIII.
LONDON:
Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES,
Stamford-Street.
=DEDICATION.=
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
=THE EARL BATHURST,=
AND
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
=THE LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE,=
&c. &c. &c.
MY LORDS,
We beg leave to submit to your inspection our account of the
Proceedings of the Expedition to which we had the honour of being
appointed by your Lordships; and to express our best thanks for
the flattering encouragement which it receives from the sanction
of your Lordships’ names.
A book of travels in countries so interesting as those to which our
researches have been directed, would once have been considered,
however indifferently it might be written, as a tribute of more
than ordinary value to its patrons. But so much has been effected,
during your Lordships’ administration, for the advancement of
science and general knowledge, that a traveller of our own times
appears before the public, unassisted by the presence of that
little cloud of mystery through which he would formerly have been
seen to so much advantage; and his work must no longer depend for
its attractions upon wonders which have ceased to be marvelled at;
or hair-breadth escapes, which have now become familiar, and no
longer excite an awe, almost amounting to reverence, for those
who return to tell of them. Our book will, however, possess the
advantage of novelty; for the country through which we have passed
is, even in the present day, little known to the general reader;
and its remains have never been described with sufficient accuracy
to make them properly intelligible. We confess that our narrative
will chiefly be found acceptable to those who are interested in
the description of antiquities, and have pleasure in tracing the
connexion between the past and the present in countries described
by ancient poets and historians. We must even allow that those
parts of our journal which have been considered by some as the
most entertaining, are those which we should spare with as little
regret as the public would probably experience in parting with
them. Such as our work is, however, we submit it, respectfully,
to the attention, as well as to the indulgence of your Lordships;
and shall be happy if the little tribute which we offer to private
worth and public desert, may be found in some measure deserving of
the honour which patronage so distinguished has conferred upon it.
If our researches have enabled us to contribute any matter of
interest to that large and valuable fund of public knowledge,
which has accumulated so considerably during your Lordships’
official career, it will be read with some feeling of internal
satisfaction by those who afforded us the means of acquiring it;
and we ourselves shall look back with pleasure upon labours which
have not been unattended by advantage. If it might have chanced
(as we have reason to believe) that, at a moment when economy had
been less imperative than it was at the period of our Expedition,
we could have extended our researches farther; we feel convinced,
at the same time, that your Lordships would also, at a period
more auspicious than that which we allude to, have enabled us to
prosecute them with greater effect.
With these impressions, we have the honour to remain,
My Lords,
Your Lordships’ grateful and obedient Servants,
HENRY W. BEECHEY,
FREDERIC W. BEECHEY.
_Harley-Street, June,_ 1827.
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
INTRODUCTION xix
CHAPTER I.
Arrival of the Expedition at Tripoly; pleasing appearance of
the Town from the Sea — Friendly Reception of the Party
by the Consul — Interview with the Bashaw, who promises
his protection and assistance — Appointment of the Escort
— Visits to some of the Mahometan Residents in Tripoly —
Sidi Mahommed d’Ghies — Preparations for the Journey —
Adoption of the Costume of the Country — This precaution
recommended on the experience of the Party — Visit from
the Arab Escort — Description of their principal, Shekh
Mahommed el Dúbbah — Sketch of the Shekh’s former Life
— Friendly attentions of the European Residents of Tripoly
— Arrival of Dr. Oudney and Lieutenant Clapperton Page 1
CHAPTER II.
General Description of Tripoly; its Castle and Port — The
Buildings of Tripoly commended by Leo Africanus — Present
Condition of the City — Its existing ancient remains —
Burial-ground of the Ancient City — Sepulchral urns of glass
discovered there by Mr. Consul Warrington — Remarks of Leo
Africanus on the soil and level of Tripoly in the fifteenth
and sixteenth Centuries — Accumulation of soil since that
period — Advance of the Sea, mentioned by Leo Africanus,
still observable on the Coast of Northern Africa — These
appearances adduced in confirmation of Major Rennell’s
remarks on the Lake Tritonis and the Lesser Syrtis —
Historical Sketch of Tripoly — Its actual state and improved
condition under the present Bashaw — Abolition of Piracy,
and partial discontinuance of the Slave Trade 12
CHAPTER III.
Departure of the Expedition from Tripoly — Passage through
Tagiura — Fertile appearance of the latter — Its Mosque,
and actual remains — Tagiura considered as the site of
Abrotonum — Existence of a Salt-water Lake at Tagiura,
consistent with Strabo’s account of Abrotonum — Present
tranquil condition of the Country in this Neighbourhood
contrasted with its dangerous state in the time of Consul Tully
— Sand-heaps to the eastward of Tagiura — Remarks on their
formation, and on the accumulation of Sand in other places —
Dangers of the Sand-storm considered — Passage over the Sandy
Tract to the eastward of Tagiura — Arrive at Wady Ramleh —
Stormy weather at that place — Take leave of our European
friends who had accompanied us from Tripoly — Continuance
of the gale — Arrive at Wady’m’Seyd — Attempt to pass,
without success, across the Sand-hills to the Coast — Arrive
at Guadigmata — Position of Graphara, as laid down by Scylax,
considered — Ancient remains discovered by Captain Smyth
in the neighbourhood of Wady’m’Seyd and Abdellata —
Remarks on these, considered as the remains of Graphara —
Scuffle with the Arabs at Sidy Abdellati — Remains at that
place indicative of an ancient military station — Cross the
range of Selem — Extensive view from its summit over the
fertile plains of Lebida and Jumarr — Rains still continue
— Distress of the Camels — Meet with the English Consul
on his return from an Excursion to Lebida — Report of a
troop of marauding Arabs lying in wait for our Party 33
CHAPTER IV.
Arrival at Lebida — Remarks on its position and resources
as compared with those of Tripoly — Short account of the
City and its remains — Allusion to the African Tribe Levatæ
(or Levata) by Procopius — The same Tribe mentioned by Leo
Africanus — Suggestions of Major Rennell on the resemblance
between the terms Levata and Libya — Former position of
this Tribe near the Coast confirmed by Procopius — Remarks
on the term Lybia — Visit from the Shekh of Lebida —
Violent Storm at that place retards the advance of the party
— Intrusion upon the premises of a celebrated Marábūt
— Dangerous consequences of this intrusion predicted by our
escort — Departure from Lebida — Remains of the Aqueduct,
and of the Causeway mentioned by Strabo — Arrive at the River
Cinyphus, now Wad’ el Kháhan — Remarks on the River and
the Morass in its immediate Neighbourhood — Observations on
the faulty position of the Cinyphus in the Maps of Cellarius
— This position probably suggested by some remarks of Pliny,
Ptolemy, and Mela — Extreme fertility of the region of the
Cinyphus — Remarks on this district, and that of Byzacium
— Suggestions of Signor Della Cella with respect to them —
Present appearance of the region of the Cinyphus consistent
with the description of Herodotus — Neglected condition of
the district under the Arabs — Account of Lebida and its
remains by Captain Smyth 50
CHAPTER V.
Arrival at Zelīten — Description of the Village and
District of that name — Harbour of Zelīten — Remains
in its Neighbourhood probably those of the Cisternæ Oppidum
of Ptolemy — Tomb of the Marábūt Sidy Abd el Salám —
Respect shewn to it by our party in passing before it —
General appearance of these Structures — Arab credulity and
superstition — Leave Zelīten — Remains between it and
Selīn — Arrive at Selīn, the Orir, apparently, of Signor
Della Cella — Proceed to Zoúia — Ports called by the
Arabs Mersa Gusser and Mersa Zoraig — Arrive at Mesurata,
the Western Boundary of the Greater Syrtis — Description of
the Town and District of Mesurata — Account of them by Leo
Africanus — Visit from the Shekh of Mesurata — Splendid
Costume and Equipage of the Shekh compared with that of our
Bedouin Guide, Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah — Allusion to the
report mentioned at the end of the Third Chapter — Great
demand for Medicine at Mesurata — Considerate conduct of
Mr. Campbell — Speedy success of his treatment in many
difficult cases — Miraculous cure of a young Arab woman by
an itinerant Sherif and Marábut — Detention of the party
at Mesurata — Observations on Cape Mesurata, considered as
the Cephalus Promontorium of Strabo — Remarks of Signor
Della Cella on this subject — Alterations proposed by
that gentleman in the punctuation of a passage in Strabo
descriptive of the Promontory — Actual appearance of
the Promontory sufficiently consistent with the account of
Strabo — Well-founded Remarks of Signor Della Cella on the
extension of the Gharian Chain, &c. — Extensive View from
the Sand-hills at the back of Mesurata — Singular contrast
presented by the view over the dreary wastes of the Syrtis
compared with that over the plain of Mesurata — Hot wind,
and swarm of Locusts accompanying it — Alarm of the Arabs
of Mesurata — Precautions adopted by them on the occasion
— Destructive consequences (mentioned by Shaw) resulting
from the visit of a flight of Locusts which he witnessed —
Remarks of Pliny on the same subject — Arrival of the Camels,
and departure from Mesurata 81
CHAPTER VI.
Entrance of the Syrtis — Extensive Lake, or Marsh, described
by Strabo — Remarks of Strabo compared with the actual
appearance and extent of the Marsh — Remains considered as
those of the ancient Naval Station, described by Strabo, at
the Mouth of the Lake — Appearance of another Station more
to the northward — Gulf of Zuca — Remarks of Signor Della
Cella connected with it — Resemblance of the names Zuchis
and Zuca — Non-existence of the Gulf of Zuca in the Greater
Syrtis — Error of D’Anville and modern Geographers on this
point — Remarks of Signor Della Cella on the terms _Marsh_
and _Lake_, as applied to the body of water mentioned by
Strabo — Dimensions of the existing Marsh — Alleged danger
of crossing it — Insulated spots in several parts of the
Marsh, corresponding with the accounts of Strabo — Arrival
at Sooleb — Appearance of Pasturage in this Neighbourhood
— Liberality of Shekh Mahommed — Cause of it ascertained
— Sooleb occupies the place assigned in modern Charts to
the Gulf of Zuca — Continuance of the Marsh — Remains near
Mahada called Kusser el Jébbah — Story connected with them
related by the Dúbbah — Unwillingness of our Arab Guides
to cross the Marsh — Cause of this ascertained — Narrow
escape of two of our party — Nature of the Soil in this
Neighbourhood — French Inscription left by the Boats of the
Chevrette — Another left by the Barge of the Adventure —
Arrive at Mahàd Hassàn, probably the Turriss Hassàn of
Edrisi — Remains at Mahàd Hassàn — Arrive at Giraff,
where the Marsh terminates altogether — Refractory conduct
of our Camel-drivers — Improvement in the appearance of
the country — Arrival at Zaffrān — Grateful verdure of
its Pasturage — Remains at Zaffrān considered as those of
Aspis — Their nature and appearance described — Port called
Mersa Zaffrān considered as that of Aspis — Difficulties
attending this position — Remains on the Beach — Supposed
Date of the Buildings at Zaffrān — Remarks connected with
them — Castles mentioned by Leo Africanus — Construction
of the Forts at Zaffrān 113
CHAPTER VII.
Remarks on the City of Sort, or Sert, of Edrisi and other
Arab Geographers — Description of it by Leo Africanus —
Position of Sert, on the authority of Abulfeda — Zaffrān
considered as Asna — Remarks of Major Rennell on these Places
— Remains at Medīnét Sultàn considered as those of Sort
— Columns and other Remains described by Signor Della Cella,
in the Neighbourhood of Zaffrān — Train of Argument adopted
by the Doctor on this occasion — Remarks of the same Writer
on the Tower of Euphrantas, and the Town of Charax, as laid
down by Strabo — Nature of the Inscriptions on the Columns
alluded to by Signor Della Cella — Formidable Appearance of
the Coast at Zaffrān — General Appearance of the Country in
its Neighbourhood — Species of Crocus abounding there —
Obliging Treatment of our Party by the Arabs of Zaffrān —
Arrival at Medīnét Sultàn — Description of its Remains
— Further Remarks on the Tower of Euphrantas — Arrival at
Nehīm — Aukward Situation of Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah —
Visit of the Dúbbah to our Tent — Object of it discovered
— Departure of Shekh Mahommed, well pleased with the result
of his Visit 150
CHAPTER VIII.
Leave Nehīm — Arrive at Boosaida — Shekh Hamed Shakshak
— Return of Shekh Mahommed — Revival of the Report
above mentioned — Motive for renewing it — Discharge our
Mesurata Camel-drivers — Treaty with the Dúbbah for others
— Interested conduct of Shekh Mahommed — Commencement of
another Salt-Lake at Sharfa — Easy mode of shifting Quarters
practised by the Arabs — Their manner of travelling —
Termination of the Lake — Arrive at Shegga — Remains of
Forts observed there — Other Remains in its neighbourhood
— Abundant Pasturage at Shegga — Fortress of Bengerwàd
— Peculiarities of its Position — Bengerwàd considered as
the Castle of Euphrantas — Objections to this supposition
— Reasons in favour of it — Leave Wady Shegga — Cross
a Tract of Red Sand — Spacious Bay at Ras Howeijah — Good
Anchorage probably found there — Remains of an ancient Town
near Ras Howeijah considered as those of Charax — Trade
of Charax alluded to, as mentioned by Strabo — Further
reasons for placing the Tower of Euphrantas at Bengerwàd —
Allusion to the barter of Silphium at Charax — Emendations
of Strabo’s Text proposed by Signor Della Cella — Arrive
at Hudīa — Alleged Origin of this Name as applied to the
place in question — Hudīa lately infested by a formidable
Band of Robbers — Precautions of our Arab Escort to prevent
any Attack — Rigorous Measures of Mahommed Bey apparently
very necessary — Remarkable Hill of Gypsum at Hudīa
— Celebration of Christmas-day by our Party at Hudīa —
Fortress at Mahirīga — Arrival of a party of Pilgrims from
the Westward — Disturbance at Linoof — Apparent causes of
it — Ill behaviour of the Dúbbah — His sudden change of
Conduct, and artful Manœuvres — Remarks on Arab Character
— Satisfactory Termination of the Disturbance — Arrival
at Mukhtár, the Boundary of the Districts of Syrt and Barka 178
CHAPTER IX.
Barren and desolate appearance of the Country in the
Neighbourhood of Muktáhr — Sulphur Mines at Kebrīt —
Extensive Marsh near Muktáhr — Arrive at Sachrīn, the
southernmost Point of the Gulf — Singularly desolate and
comfortless Appearance of it — Examination of the Coast
from the Heights of Jerīa — Extreme Difference of its
Outline from that laid down in modern Charts — Suggested
Causes of this Error — Accumulation of Sand on the Beach in
this Neighbourhood — Alarm of Signor Della Cella in passing
it — Causes of this Accumulation considered — Character
of the Country at the Bottom of the Gulf — Observations of
Signor Della Cella respecting it — Allusion of the Doctor
to the Expedition of the Psylli — Remarks on the Latitude of
this part of the Gulf — Monuments of the Philæni — Record
of their Patriotism by Sallust — Various Positions of the
Philænian Altars by the Ancients — Boreum Promontorium and
Oppidum of Cellarius — Suggested Causes of their Position
by this Author in the Bottom of the Gulf — Observations on
the Nature of the Soil of the Greater Syrtis — Allusion to
the March of Cato across it — Island called Bushaifa at the
Bottom of the Gulf — Gradual Improvement in the Appearance
of the Country — Arrival at Braiga — Remains observed
there — Harbour of Braiga — Heaps of Sulphur lying on
the Beach there for Embarkation — Salt Lake and Marsh at
Braiga below the Level of the Sea — Well-constructed Forts
at Braiga — Braiga considered as the Site of Automala —
Contest between the Avarice and Conscience of the Dúbbah
— Its termination in favour of the latter — Arrival
at Tabilba — Excavations and Remains there — Tabilba
considered as the Maritimæ Stationes of Ptolemy — Arrive
at Ain Agàn — Chain of Salt Lakes and Marshes said to
extend two Days to the South-eastward — Island of Gàra,
probably the Gaia of Ptolemy — Wells of sweet Water, two
Miles to the North-east of Shiebah — Abduction of a Lamb
from an Arab Shepherd by our Party — Consequences of this
Measure — Departure of the Dúbbah in search of his Camels
— Arrival at Carcora — Two Boat Coves observed there
— Springs of Fresh Water within a few feet of a Salt Water
Lake — Arrive at Ghimēnes — Forts and Remains there —
Excavated Tombs in the Neighbourhood — Change of Weather
experienced — Wasted Condition of our Horses from Fatigue and
want of Water — Hardy Constitution of the Barbary Horses —
Treatment of them by the Arabs — Improved Appearance of the
Country in approaching Bengazi — Singular Fences of Stone
generally adopted in this part of the Country — Causes of
their Erection — Position of Bengazi — Fertile Appearance
of the Country about it — Arrival at Bengazi — Friendly
Reception of our Party by Signor Rossoni, the British Resident
there — Establish ourselves in the Town for the rainy Season 209
CHAPTER X.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE GULF AND SHORES OF THE GREATER SYRTIS.
The Dimensions of the Gulf, according to Ancient Writers,
considered, and compared with those resulting from the
Observations of the Expedition — Difference in the Statements
of the several Writers quoted — Reasons why a Difference
may be expected in their Accounts — Observations of Major
Rennell on the Measurements of the Ancients — Ptolemy’s
Outline of the Gulf more correct than any hitherto given
— Number of Square Miles of Error in modern Charts of the
Greater Syrtis — The Ideas of Ancient Writers (Herodotus
excepted) with respect to the Nature and Resources of the
Syrtis (the _Territory_, not the _Gulf_ of the Greater Syrtis
is here meant) more erroneous than the Dimensions which have
been assigned to the Gulf itself — The General Character
of the Syrtis not that of a Sandy Plain — Incorrectness
of the Arab Accounts of what is termed by them the Desert
of Barka — Account of Herodotus considered — Apparent
Accuracy of his Statements — Inferences drawn from them
— Ancient Accounts of the _Gulf_ of the Greater Syrtis,
dimensions excepted, very correct — Accumulation of Soil on
the Shores of the Gulf accounted for — Apparent Elevation
of the General Level of the Syrtis — Advance of the Sea on
the Northern Coast of Africa — Appearance of the Coast at
Alexandria and Carthage consistent with that of the Shores
of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica — Observations of Major
Rennell and Dr. Shaw on the Elevation of the Coast of Tunis,
and the Advance of the Sea in that quarter — Observations
of Lucan on the Level of the Greater Syrtis — Dangers of
the Navigation of the Gulf of Syrtis considered — Inset
into the Gulf still existing to a great extent — Flux and
Reflux of the Sea mentioned by Strabo and Mela considered
— Remarks on the Derivation of the term _Syrtis_ 254
CHAPTER XI.
The Rainy Season sets in at Bengazi towards the middle of
January, and continues with little interruption till the
beginning of March — Miserable Condition of the Town during
that period — Construction of the Houses — Improvidence of
the Arabs — Dirty state of the Streets — Swarms of insects
which infest them — Position of Bengazi — Description of
its Harbour — Castle of the Bey — Visit to Bey Halīl
— Friendly Reception of our Party by his Excellency —
Occupations and arrangements during the Rainy Season — The
Shekh el Belad Mahommed — Jews of Bengazi — Trade of the
Town — Produce of the Environs — Wretched state of the
Bullock Vessels — Mahometan Inhabitants of Bengazi —
Alarm of the Lower Classes during our residence there —
Confusion resulting from it — Mob collected at our door
on this occasion — Narrow Escape of Mr. Giacomo Rossoni
— Friendly Conduct of our Mahometan Acquaintance — Parley
with the Arabs — Dispersion of the Mob — Prejudices of the
Arabs respecting the Treatment of Diseases — Fatal Effects
of this species of Folly at Bengazi — Prevalent Diseases in
Bengazi and its vicinity — Singular cause of Alarm among a
Party of Arab Shekhs — Arab notions of decorum and propriety
contrasted with those of European Nations — Bengazi supposed
to occupy the Site of Berenice and Hesperis — Existing
Remains there — Little regard manifested by Turks and Arabs
for the relics of Antiquity — Probable Limits of Berenice
— Quarries, and singular Chasms in its Neighbourhood —
Gardens of Hesperides — Position of the Gardens according
to Scylax, Pliny, and Ptolemy — Conjectures of Gosselin and
others respecting them — Circumstances which appear to favour
our position of the Gardens — Lakes and Subterranean Caverns
in the Neighbourhood of Bengazi, (or Berenice) — Concealed
Body of Water observed in one of the latter — Examination
of the Caverns — Remarks of the Bey respecting it — The
Subterranean Stream in question considered as the River Lathon,
or Lethe — Testimonies of the Ancients on this point —
Supposed Communication of the Subterranean Stream with the
Lake adjoining the Harbour of Bengazi — Signification of the
term _Lathon_ alluded to — Further Remarks in confirmation
of our suggested Position of the River, and of its probable
Communication with the Lake above mentioned — Remarks of
Strabo and Cellarius on the subject — Temple of Venus, and
Lake Tritonis of Strabo — Remarks on the name _Berenice_
— Total ignorance of the Arabs of Bengazi with respect to
the former celebrity of their City — Pleasing little Fable
of Kazwini, on the changes which take place in the Nature
and Appearance of Places, and the little knowledge which
remains, after a lapse of time, of their former Condition,
even on the spots where they existed 281
CHAPTER XII.
Remarks on the Soil of Bengazi and the Country in its
Neighbourhood — Distinction of Sex in the Palm-tree, &c.,
noticed by the Ancients and by Mahometan Writers — Persian
Anecdote of a Love-sick Date-tree — Remarks of Shaw on
the Propagation and Treatment of the Palm — Arab Mode of
cultivating the Sandy Tracts in the Neighbourhood of Bengazi
— Journey to Carcora — Completion of the Coast-line from
that Place to Bengazi — Return to Bengazi, and Departure
for Teuchira and Ptolemeta — Description of the Country
between Bengazi and these Places — Remains observable in
this Track — Correspondence of the Tower called Gusser el
Towēl with that of Cafez, mentioned by Edrisi — Probable
Site of Adriane — Arrival at Birsis — Remains in its
neighbourhood, at Mably (or Mabny), considered as those of
Neapolis — Hospitality of the Arabs of Birsis — Remains
of Teuchira — Position of the City — Quarries without
the Walls covered with Greek Inscriptions — Teuchira a
Town of Barca — Walls of the City repaired by Justinian
— No Port observable at Teuchira — Mistake of Bruce in
confounding Teuchira with Ptolemeta — Good Supply of fresh
Water at Teuchira — The excavated Tombs of the ancient City
used as Dwelling-houses by the Arabs of the Neighbourhood
— Indisposition of our Chaous (or Janissary) — Route
from Teuchira to Ptolemeta — Remains at Ptolemeta — Port
and Cothon of the ancient City — Other Remains observable
there — Ptolemaic Inscriptions — Picturesque Ravines
in the Neighbourhood of Ptolemeta — Position of the City
— Remains of Bridges observed there — Advantages of its
Site — Extreme Drought at Ptolemeta, recorded by Procopius
— Reparation of the Aqueducts and Cisterns by the Emperor
Justinian — Existing Remains of an extensive Cistern at
Ptolemeta, probably among those alluded to by Procopius —
State of the Town, its Solitude and Desolation — Luxuriant
Vegetation which encumbered its Streets when the Place was
first visited by our Party — Change of Scene on returning
to it in Summer-time 339
CHAPTER XIII.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE CITIES OF TEUCHIRA AND PTOLEMETA.
Actual Condition of the City of Teuchira — Perfect State
and great Strength of its Walls — Suggested Period of their
Erection — Mode in which they are constructed — Gates
of the City — Narrow Passage communicating with them —
Probable Advance of the Sea at Teuchira — Line described by
the Walls — Estimated Circuit of them according to Signor
Della Cella — Greek Inscriptions cut in various parts of
them — Suggestions of Signor Della Cella respecting them —
Actual Nature of the Inscriptions — Excavated Tombs in the
Quarries of Teuchira — Egyptian Names of Months generally
adopted by the Inhabitants of the City — General Nature
of the Plans of the Tombs — Some of the Bodies appear to
have been burnt, and others to have been buried entire — No
Difference appears to have obtained at Teuchira between the
Modes of Burial adopted by its Greek and Roman Inhabitants —
Encumbered State of what are probably the earliest Tombs —
Solitary instance of a Painted Tomb at Teuchira — Remains
of Christian Churches, and other Buildings within the Walls
— Disposition of the Streets — Remains without the Walls
— No Statues, or Remains of them, discovered by our Party
at Teuchira — Remarks on the Wall of Ptolemeta — Remains
of a Naustothmos, or Naval Station, observed there — Other
Remains of Building on the Beach near the Station — Further
traces of the City-Wall — Dimensions of Ptolemeta — Remains
of Theatres found there — Description of the larger one —
Ruins described by Bruce as part of an Ionic Temple — Other
Remains in the Neighbourhood of these — Remarks on the Style
of some of the Buildings of Ptolemeta, as contrasted with those
of Egypt and Nubia — Probable Date of its existing Remains 367
CHAPTER XIV.
JOURNEY FROM PTOLEMETA TO MERGE.
Departure from Ptolemeta — Romantic and Picturesque
Appearance of the Road — Luxuriant Vegetation which
adorned it — Arrive at the Summit of the first Range —
Bedouin Tents on the Plain above — Pleasing Manners of their
Inhabitants — Character of the Scenery on the Summit of the
Lower Range — Beauty of the Route continues — Arrive at
the Plain of Merge — Character and Position of the Plain
— Our Camel-Drivers refuse to proceed — Artful Conduct of
Abou-Bukra — Appeal to Bey Halil — Projected Mission to
Derna — Abou-Bukra comes to Terms, and brings his Camels for
the Journey — Pools of Fresh Water collected in the Plain
of Merge — Use made of them by the Arabs — Prevalence of
a Virulent Cutaneous Disease among the Arab Tribes of Merge
and its Neighbourhood — Remains of a Town at one extremity
of the Plain — Remarks on the District and City of Barca —
Testimonies of Strabo, Pliny, Ptolemy, and Scylax, respecting
the Port of Barca — Remarks on the Position of the City of
that Name — Arab Accounts of Barca — Edrisi, Abulfeda,
&c. — Unsatisfactory Nature of the Accounts in Question —
Mode of reconciling the Arab Accounts of Barca with those
of Scylax — Suggested Position of the Ancient City —
Peculiarity of Soil attributed to Barca — Observations on
its Produce and Resources — State of Barca under the Arabs
— Decay of the Ancient City after the building of Ptolemais
on the Site of its Port — The Barcæans remarkable for
their Skill in the Management of Horses and Chariots —
Their Country formerly celebrated for its excellent Breed
of Horses — Degeneracy of the present Breed — Account
of Barca by Herodotus — Other Accounts of its Origin —
Siege and Plunder of the City by the Persians under Amasis
— Subsequent state of the City till the building of Ptolemais 386
CHAPTER XV.
JOURNEY FROM MERGE TO CYRENE.
Departure from Merge — Deep Marks of Chariot-wheels on
the Stony Road indicative of an ancient Track — Valley of
Bogràta — Ancient Wells observed there — Valley of Hareebe
— Beauty and Luxuriance of the Country continue — Roses
of the Cyrenaica mentioned by Athenæus as celebrated for the
excellence of their Perfume — Oil (or Ointment) of Roses
made at Cyrene in the time of Berenice (probably the Daughter
of Magas) — Difficulty and Danger of some Parts of the Road
— Apprehensions of our Arab Conductors — They appear to
have been groundless — Arrive at Margàd — Bad State of
the Road continues — Quarrel between Abou-Bukra and one of
our Servants — Consequences of the Quarrel — Departure of
Abou-Bukra — Continue our Route alone and succeed in finding
the right Track — Return of Abou-Bukra and his people —
Satisfactory Termination of the Disturbance — Oppressive
Sirocco Wind — Nature of the Country on approaching Cyrene
— First Appearance of a Plant resembling the Daucus, or
Wild Carrot — Resemblance of this Plant to the Silphium,
as expressed on ancient Coins — Points in which it differs
from it — Remarks on the Silphium as mentioned by ancient
Writers — Testimony of Herodotus, Arrian, Theophrastus,
Pliny, Athenæus — Bill of Fare of the Kings of Persia,
stated by Polyænus to have been discovered in the royal
Palace by Alexander the Great — Silphium mentioned in this
among other articles of Food — Description of the Plant
by Theophrastus and Pliny — Celebrity and Scarcity of the
Silphium and of the Extract from it — Extraordinary Cause
of the first Appearance of the Silphium in the Cyrenaica,
as mentioned by Pliny on the authority of Greek Writers —
Effects produced by the Plant on the Sheep and Cattle who
were allowed to eat it — Similar Effects produced by the
Plant observed by the Expedition on Camels — Extraordinary
Medicinal Qualities imputed to the Silphium by Pliny — The
use of it recommended by the Roman Naturalist as a sovereign
remedy for almost everything but the Tooth-ache — Fatal
Consequences recorded by Pliny, of applying it in the Case
last mentioned — Silphium offered by the People of Cyrene
to their first King Battus, as the most valuable Production
of their Country — State in which the Plant observed by the
Expedition most resembles the Silphium on the Coins of Cyrene
— Partition of the Road from Merge to Cyrene — Extensive
Traces of Building observed along the ancient, or lower Road
— Approach to Cyrene indicated by innumerable Sarcophagi
and Tombs — Position of these along the sides of the Roads,
as observable at Pompeii and other ancient Towns — Frequent
Traces of Chariot-wheels still observable along the Roads,
deeply indented in the rocky Soil of the Place — The earlier
Tombs distinguished by their simplicity and good taste —
The later by a more ornamented and less perfect style —
Busts and Statues scattered everywhere about among the Tombs
— Difference of Style and Character observable in these
— Remains of an Aqueduct — Fountain of Cyrene 405
CHAPTER XVI.
Description of the Fountain — Excavations which enclose it
— Sculptured Tablet discovered at the entrance of one of
the Chambers — Early Character of its Style — Beautiful
Bas-Relief in white Marble discovered near the Fountain —
Indications of Porticoes in front of the excavated Chambers
— Greek Inscription cut over one of them — Remains in
front of the Fountain — Aqueduct above it — Peripteral
Temple, probably of Diana — Female Statue discovered there
— Position of Cyrene — Delightful View from the Town
— Excavated Galleries and Tombs — Nature and Style of
the Tombs — Variety displayed in the disposition of their
Interiors — Remains of Painting discovered in them — Suite
of what appear to be Allegorical Compositions, painted on the
Metopes of one of the Doric Tombs — Practice, at Cyrene,
of painting the several Members of Architecture — Remarks
connected with this Practice 424
CHAPTER XVII.
Arrival of Captain Smyth at Derna — Our Party set out
from Cyrene to meet him — Remains of Ancient Forts, and
Sarcophagi observed on the Journey — Marks of Chariot-wheels
in the Stony Track indicative of an ancient Road — Barren
Appearance of the Mountains which rise at the back of Derna
— Perilous Descent from their Summit to the Plain below
— Exhausted condition of our Horses in accomplishing it
— Arrive at Derna, where we found the Adventure, and wait
upon Captain Smyth — Description of the town of Derna —
Ravages occasioned by the Plague there — Prompt Measures
of Mahommed Bey in subduing it — Some Account of Mahommed
Bey — Civility and attention received by our Party from
Signor Regignani the British Agent at Derna — Take leave of
Mr. Tindall, who sails on board the Adventure — Departure
from Derna on our road to Apollonia — Gradual increase of
Vegetation observed on the Route — Thickly-wooded Ravines and
dangerous Passes on this Road — Beautiful Stream at Elthroon
— Arrive at El Hilal — Capacious Harbour at that place —
Ancient Remains observed there — Arab Encampment at El Hilal
— Dishonest Conduct of our Chaous — Arrive at Apollonia
— No Water to be found there — Begin to dig a Well in
order to procure some, our stock being wholly exhausted —
Bad Success of this attempt — Continue our Journey to Cyrene
— Miss the Path over the Mountain, and lose our way among
the Thickets and Underwood — Inconvenience of this mistake
to all Parties — Find the right track, and at length reach
the Fountain of Apollo — Rencontre of our Servants with some
female Inhabitants of the Mountain — Singular position of the
Caves which they lived in — Gain intelligence at Cyrene of
a Spring in the neighbourhood of Apollonia — Set out again
for that place — Description of the Road — Architectural
Remains, and beautiful appearance of the Country through
which it passes — Meet with an Hyæna in the dusk of the
evening — The forest much infested by these animals and
Jackalls — Peculiarities of both — Arrive at Apollonia,
and find the Springs described to us — Other Caves in the
Mountain — Unwillingness of their Inhabitants to admit us
— Description of the City of Apollonia 467
CHAPTER XVIII.
Observations on the Position of Ras Sem — Remarks of Bruce
connected with this place — Difficulty of reconciling the
several positions assigned to it — Extravagant Stories
related of its Petrifactions, supposed to be those of Human
Beings — Fallacy of these Statements as recorded by Shaw —
Report of Petrified Remains at Ghirza made to Captain Smyth by
Mukni (Bey, or Sultan, of Fezzan) during the progress of his
Excavations at Lebda — Journey of Captain Smyth in search
of the objects described to him — Description of the actual
Remains at Ghirza — Monumental Obelisk discovered there,
and Tombs, combining a mixture of the Egyptian and Grecian
styles of Architecture — Indifferent Taste and Execution
of these Remains — Veneration in which they are held by
Mahometans of all classes, who suppose them to be Petrified
Human Beings of their own persuasion — Geographic Position
of Ghirza determined by Captain Smyth — Further Observations
on the Remains at Apollonia — Return of our party to Cyrene
— Account of that City continued 501
CHAPTER XIX.
Historical Sketch of Cyrene — Its Foundation by a
Lacedæmonian Colony — Dynasty of the Battiades, or Family
of Battus — Cession of the Country to Ptolemy Lagus — And
afterwards to the Romans by Apion, the last of the Ptolemies
who possessed it — Cyrene becomes a Roman Province, and is
united in one Government with Crete — Illustrious Persons who
were natives of Cyrene — Tenets of the Sect of Philosophers
termed Cyrenaic — Decay of the City and its final Desertion
in Christian times after the Transfer of the Bishopric to
Ptolemeta — Return of the Expedition to Bengazi, and its
subsequent Departure for Malta 558
LIST OF PLATES.
CHAPTER
1. Solitary Palm-Tree at Arar, remarkable as being the
only Tree in the Greater Syrtis VI.
2. Formidable Appearance of the Coast at Zaffran _ib._
3. Remains of an Ancient Bridge at Ptolemeta XII.
4. Remains of an Ancient Mausoleum at Ptolemeta _ib._
5. Remains of an Ionic Building at Ptolemeta (Vignette) _ib._
6. Remains of an early Christian Church at Ptolemeta _ib._
7. Singular Position of Two Inhabited Caves in the
Neighbourhood of Apollonia XVII.
8. Position of the Amphitheatre, the Fountain of Apollo,
and some other Remains at Cyrene XVI.
9. Elevation of the Internal Façade of an Excavated
Tomb at Cyrene _ib._
10. Suite of Allegorical Figures painted on the Metopes
of One of the Excavated Tombs at Cyrene _ib._
11. Partial View of the Tombs on the Heights of Cyrene _ib._
12. Architectural Front of One of the Doric excavated
Tombs at Cyrene XVIII.
13. Entrance to the Fountain of Apollo at Cyrene (Vignette) XVI.
LIST OF CHARTS AND PLANS.
General Chart of the Route I.
Chart, showing the Difference between the Coast Line of
former Charts, and that obtained by the Expedition X.
Plan of the Port and Neighbourhood of Bengazi XI.
Plan of the City of Teuchira XII.
Plan of the City of Ptolemeta _ib._
Plan of the City and Environs of Cyrene XV.
Plan of the City, on a larger Scale _ib._
Plan of the Town of Derna and of the Port of Zaffran XVII.
Plan of the Port and City of Apollonia _ib._
INTRODUCTION.
* * * * *
In offering to the Public an account of the mission, the proceedings
of which will form the subject of the present Narrative, it may be
proper to state briefly the circumstances which gave rise to it,
and the objects to which its inquiries were chiefly directed.
When Captain Smyth visited the Northern Coast of Africa, in the year
1817, he had many opportunities (during the course of his Survey)
of obtaining information connected with the state of the country
and the points most deserving of notice which it presented. The
exertions of this active and intelligent officer procured at Lebida
the matter for the only plan which we have of that city and its
antiquities, while his journey to Ghirza made us acquainted with
the actual nature of those remains, so important in Arab estimation,
the account of which is given at the latter part of our narrative[1].
Captain Smyth had proposed to extend his journey eastward;
for the friendly disposition of the Bashaw of Tripoly had been
diligently cultivated by himself and Colonel Warrington, His
Majesty’s Consul-general at the Regency, and the whole tract of
country between Tripoly and Derna was open to the researches of
the English. Circumstances, however, prevented him from doing so,
and on returning to England he submitted the information which he
had been able to collect to the Admiralty, and suggested that a
party might be advantageously employed in exploring the Greater
Syrtis and Cyrenaica, as well as the country to the eastward of
Derna as far as Alexandria and the Oasis of Ammon.
Many spots of more than ordinary interest were comprehended within
the limits of the Syrtis and Cyrenaica: some of these had been the
favourite themes of mythology, haunts in which the poets of Greece
and Rome had loved to linger; and others had been celebrated in
the more sober language of historians whose fame is less perishable
than the objects which they describe. But whatever might once have
been the state of a country placed before us so conspicuously in
pages which are dear to us, there had not in our own times been
any opportunity of ascertaining its actual condition. The name of
Cyrene was familiar to classic ears, but no one had visited its
remains; the “secret springs” of Lethe and the Gardens of the
Hesperides had almost been confounded with the fables of antiquity;
and the deep and burning sands, overspread with venomous serpents,
which were supposed to form the barrier between Leptis Magna and
Berenice, had rarely been trodden since the army of Cato had nearly
found a grave beneath their weight[2].
The outline of this extensive Gulf (the Greater Syrtis), the coast
of which was as formidable to the vessels of the ancients as its
sands were supposed to have been to their armies, had never been
accurately laid down in modern charts, and the contradictory
statements of its form and peculiarities appeared to call for
minute investigation. There were many geographical points to be
determined in the space between Tripoly and Bengazi, and remains of
several ancient towns (besides Cyrene) were known to exist in the
Pentapolis, of which no plans had hitherto been made. Under all these
circumstances it appeared to Captain Smyth that, as he was himself
about to sail in the Adventure to finish his survey of the northern
coast of Africa, it might so be arranged that a party on shore
should proceed simultaneously along the tract of country mentioned,
communicating from time to time with his vessel as occasions might
offer in the course of their route. The views of His Majesty’s
Government were at this period favorable to the cause of research;
and the labours of many skilful and enterprising men had been,
since the peace, advantageously directed to various points of
interest, from the sultry plains of Fezzan to the borders of the
Frozen Ocean. It was therefore not long after the plan in question
had been submitted to the Admiralty and the Colonial Department,
that it was acceded to by Earl Bathurst and Lord Melville; and the
means of carrying it into effect were referred to the consideration
of one of the heads of the Admiralty, whose well-directed ability
had often been manifested in the promotion and arrangement of
similar undertakings, and whose exertions in the cause of science
and discovery are well known and highly appreciated[3].
Accordingly, when the necessary dispositions had been made,
Lieutenant Beechey was appointed on the part of the Admiralty to
undertake the coast line from Tripoly to Derna,—if practicable, as
far as Alexandria; and Mr. Tyndall, a young gentleman on board the
Adventure, was directed to assist him in the survey. Earl Bathurst
appointed Mr. Beechey to examine and report on the antiquities of
the country, and Mr. Campbell of the Navy was soon after nominated
to accompany the expedition as surgeon. The party was embarked on
board His Majesty’s Ship Adventure, and sailed from England early
in July with Captain Smyth, proceeding directly to Malta: there they
were joined by Lieutenant Coffin of the Navy, who had come out in
the Adventure, and who handsomely volunteered his services on shore,
which were accepted without hesitation. A short time was sufficient
to complete the few remaining preparations, and the expedition left
Malta for Tripoly.
We have already said that it had been in contemplation to extend
our journey farther to the eastward, and to examine the country
between that place and Alexandria, in which it seemed probable that
interesting remains might be found. We had in that event proposed
to return by Siwah, and along the track of Horneman to Augila;
from which place we should have re-entered the Greater Syrtis, and
explored some of the more inland parts of it in the course of our
journey back to Tripoly. Circumstances, however, which it will not
here be necessary to explain, prevented our going farther eastward
than Derna, and limited the period of our stay in the Pentapolis to
a much shorter period than we had originally calculated upon. Our
work has in consequence assumed the form of a Journal, and has
become more contracted on points of unquestionable interest, and
more diffuse in matters which would otherwise have been omitted,
than it would have been in the character which we wished it to have
taken. We do not, however, mean to apologize for having done less
than we might have done under the circumstances in which we were
placed; or to underrate the value of the matter which we have been
able to lay before the Public: the materials which we had to work
upon are in themselves sufficiently interesting to call for the
attention of those who read for information, and the labour which
has been employed in collecting them (during the whole course of
a long and fatiguing journey) has not been thrown away upon trifles.
We have given to the world (we may say with the greatest accuracy)
an extensive tract of coast which has been hitherto unsurveyed,
and of which our best charts afforded a very imperfect outline,
as will appear by a reference to the maps at the head of the work.
We have obtained the plans of towns and places, (rendered
interesting by antiquity, and by the rank which they hold in the
pages of history,) of which we have hitherto had no details; and
have described, or made drawings of every object of note which
has presented itself on the field of our operations. In fact,
whatever may be the merit of our work in other respects, or the value
attached to our exertions, we are satisfied ourselves with the matter
acquired and with the labour and diligence which has been employed
in collecting it; and it is because our materials are worthy of more
attention than we had time and opportunities to bestow upon them,
that we regret we are not able to offer them to the Public in a more
complete form than we have been able to give them. Had it been in
our power to employ excavation, on a more extensive scale than we
did, and to bestow as much time upon every object worth attention
as its importance appeared to demand, our work could have been a
more perfect one; that is to say, it would have treated of art,
and its details more exclusively (we mean the details of sculpture,
architecture, and painting,) than it does in the shape which it at
present assumes. We might also have given additional interest to
our narrative by introducing more plates than we have been able to
insert; but our number has been (we believe necessarily) limited, and
we may add that the selection of those which appear might have been
better if we had known, before the drawings went to the engraver,
that we should have been obliged to leave out so many of them.
Something should be said to account for the delay which has taken
place in publication since the work was first announced. We may
state that, so far as we are ourselves concerned, more than three
parts of the MS. was finished at least two years ago; and that the
remainder was only kept back because it could not be completed till
the first portion was printed.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: The plan here alluded to of the City of Lebida was
obligingly placed at our disposal by the author, and we wished to
have had it engraved for the work; but, in consequence of being
obliged to limit our number of plates to much fewer than we had
originally anticipated, this plan, with some others of our own,
have been omitted.]
[Footnote 2: The poetical account of this tract of country by Lucan
is well known to the readers of ancient literature, and we shall
have occasion hereafter to advert to it in speaking of the actual
appearance of the Syrtis.]
[Footnote 3: A little before this period, an expedition undertaken
by the Bashaw of Tripoly against his eldest son Mahommed, now Bey
of Derna, afforded to Signor Della Cella, an Italian gentleman
residing in Tripoly, the opportunity of visiting the Syrtis and
Cyrenaica in the capacity of physician to the Bashaw’s second son,
who at that time commanded the expedition against his brother.
The account of this journey was published at Genoa soon after the
return of Dr. Della Cella; and the interest which uncertainty had
given to the country through which he passed was increased by his
animated description of its remains. But the opportunities which were
afforded to the Doctor were not sufficient for the accomplishment
of his object; and although his pen described the extensive ruins
which he witnessed, the reader had to regret that the shortness of
his stay prevented him from examining them with attention.]
We subjoin the errata which we have been able to detect in a hasty
perusal of the Narrative after the whole was printed off. There may
possibly, however, be others which have escaped us. The few errors
which occur in some of the passages quoted from foreign languages,
we have not thought it necessary to include in this list, since
the proper readings will be obvious to all who understand them,
and it will be unnecessary to point them out to those who do not.
Page
52, _for_ who has obligingly, _read and_ who has, &c. (Note.)
65, _for_ this range, _read_ the range.
292, _for_ ti stan bono, _read_ ti sta bono.
293, _for_ a te. _read_ été.
397, _for_ its site should be _fixed, read_ looked for.
397, _for of_ the accounts of the city of Barca, _read_ if the
accounts, &c.
471, _for_ at the roadstead, _read in_ the roadstead.
[Illustration: _Coast line of the Gulf_ OF THE Greater Sertis,
_BY Capt. F. W. Beechey, R.N._
_J. & C. Walker Sculpt._
_Published as the act directs, April 1827, by J. Murray, Albemarle
St. London._]
NARRATIVE
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
Arrival of the Expedition at Tripoly; pleasing appearance of
the Town from the Sea — Friendly Reception of the Party by the
Consul — Interview with the Bashaw, who promises his protection
and assistance — Appointment of the Escort — Visits to some
of the Mahometan Residents in Tripoly — Sidi Mahommed d’Ghies
— Preparations for the journey — Adoption of the Costume of
the Country — This precaution recommended on the experience of
the party — Visit from the Arab Escort — Description of their
principal, Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah — Sketch of the Shekh’s
former Life — Friendly attentions of the European Residents of
Tripoly — Arrival of Dr. Oudney and Lieutenant Clapperton.
In the beginning of September the Adventure sailed from Malta, and
in a few days we made the African shore, at about the situation
assigned to Tripoli Vecchio. Running down to the eastward, we
soon discovered the place of our destination, and on the morning
of the 11th, cast anchor in the harbour of Tripoly. The town makes
a respectable appearance from the sea; it is surrounded by a high
wall, strengthened with bastions, above which are distinguished
the mosques and the baths, whose white minarets and cupolas form
no unpleasing contrast with the dark tints presented by thick
groves of palm-trees, rising in varied groups, from the gardens
at the back of the town. The different coloured flags which were
hoisted to salute us on the castle of the Bashaw, and the houses
of the several consuls, floated gaily in the clear atmosphere and
bright sunshine of a Mediterranean climate; and the whole together,
viewed under favourable impressions, gave to Tripoly an appearance
of much more interest and importance than it was afterwards found
to have deserved.
The reception which we experienced from Mr. Warrington, the British
Consul-General at Tripoly, was friendly and attentive in the extreme;
and, on our landing, the consulate was assigned to us as a residence,
which he obligingly left at our disposal. The arrival of our party
was now signified officially to the Bashaw, who appointed a day
to receive us; being at the time indisposed, on account of the
operation of _burning_, which he had undergone as a cure for the
rheumatism[1]. His Highness was provided with a skilful European
physician, who had been for some time attached to his person and
to the court; but the prejudices of his country were too strong to
be overcome by reason, and the remedies of Dr. Dicheson gave way
to the popular superstition.
On the day appointed for the interview, we proceeded to the
palace of His Highness, accompanied by the Consul and Captain
Smyth. The streets through which we had to pass, on our way to
the Castle, were by no means fit approaches to a regal abode;
they were encumbered with the rubbish of houses fallen into ruin,
and with the superfluous produce of those which were yet standing;
while swarms of little naked and dirty children, and numerous groups
of hungry, half-starved dogs, almost blocked up the little space
which was left for our passage. The dust which was unavoidably
raised in our progress, together with the heat of the sun, and the
myriads of gnats and flies which assailed us in every direction,
were no grateful additions to these inconveniences; and we were
heartily glad to find ourselves before the gates of the Castle,
where a part of the Bashaw’s guard was drawn out in due form to
receive us. After paying our respects to the Kechia[2], (who was
seated at the end of the skeefa, or entrance hall,) we were ushered
along a dark and narrow passage, so irregular and uneven under foot,
that we were in danger of falling at almost every step[3], and
having passed at intervals several Tchaouses and soldiers, who were
barely discernible through the gloom, we found ourselves at length
in a spacious apartment, where a motley crowd of Christians, Turks,
Arabs, and Jews, were assembled to wait His Highness’s leisure.
We had not been long here before it was announced to us that
the Bashaw was prepared to receive us; and, on approaching the
presence, we found His Highness seated, with all due solemnity,
at the farther end of the apartment, attended by his third son,
Sidy Ali, by Reis Moràt[4], who acted as interpreter, and by other
principal officers of the Court. A formidable line of well-armed
black soldiers were ranged along the walls of the room, who stood
exactly like so many statues, each with a loaded blunderbuss, held
with the muzzle pointed downwards; and close to the Bashaw’s person
was a trusty black slave, who held in readiness His Highness’s
pistols. The introduction of armed soldiers into the presence-chamber
of a Sovereign was rather a novel sight to Europeans, and may be
taken as an example of the extremely barbarous state in which the
Regency of Tripoly, with all its recent improvements, must still
be admitted to remain.
The High Admiral, Reis Moràt, in the name of our party, made known
to the Bashaw the friendly disposition of the King of England towards
His Highness; in testimony of which he was requested to accept
the present of four brass field-pieces, with their accoutrements,
which we had brought with us on board the Adventure; and he was
then requested to extend his protection to our party in their
passage through his extensive dominions. Every assistance was freely
offered on the part of the Bashaw, who expressed himself, in return,
highly satisfied with the friendly assurances of His Majesty; and
the necessary preliminaries being satisfactorily arranged, tea[5]
and lemonade were served with all due decorum, and our party took
leave of His Highness. The guns were brought up the same afternoon,
close under the balcony of the palace, and the Bashaw appeared
at the window to inspect them, with some of the officers of his
court; various manœuvres were gone through to the admiration and
astonishment of the spectators, under the direction of the gunner
of the Adventure, and the cannoniers acquitted themselves so highly
to the satisfaction of His Highness, that he sent a sword to the
gunner, in token of his approbation, and a bag of dollars to be
divided among the crew.
In our interview with the Bashaw it had been finally arranged
that our party should be escorted as far as Bengazi, by an Arab
Shekh who presided over the district of Syrt, and was called Shekh
Mahommed el Dúbbah; at Bengazi we were to be consigned to Hadood,
Shekh of Barka, who was to conduct us as far as Bomba, beyond which
his authority ceased. As Bomba, or its immediate vicinity, may be
considered as the eastern limit of the Regency, we were informed
that, in our progress from that place to Alexandria, we must depend
upon the protection of the Bashaw of Egypt. We had foreseen this
circumstance before our arrival in Tripoly, and a letter had been
written from Malta to Mr. Salt, His Majesty’s Consul-General in
Egypt, requesting him, in the name of the British Government, to
make the necessary arrangements with His Highness the Viceroy for
our passing from Derna to Alexandria; and we afterwards received a
firman from Mahommed Ali, which he considered would be sufficient
to ensure our advance.
These preliminaries settled we began to make preparations for our
journey, and consulted with the most intelligent natives in Tripoly
on the best means of forwarding the objects of the Expedition.
We found them on all occasions particularly obliging, and always
ready to afford us every information in their power. From Sidi
Mahommed D’Ghies, in particular, the same well-informed native
who had been of great service to Mr. Ritchie and Captain Lyon, as
well as from his son[6], a most excellent young man, we received
at various times much useful advice, and always the most friendly
and cordial reception.
At the house of Sidi Mahommed, we were one day introduced to one of
the most respectable Mahometan traders to Timbuctoo; who offered to
ensure our arrival at that place, and our return in perfect safety
to Tripoly, provided we would place ourselves entirely under his
directions; allowing, of course, for ill health, as well as for such
accidents as could not be foreseen, and may happen to any one in
travelling across the desert. As Timbuctoo, however, formed no part
of the object of our mission, this offer was naturally declined; and
we merely mention it here as one which may be worth consideration,
should any future traveller decide upon attempting this journey by
way of Tripoly.
Our next care was to provide ourselves with the dress of the country,
which was strongly recommended to us by our Mahometan friends,
and which, indeed, on the former experience of one of our party,
we had before proposed to adopt. The opinion of Colonel Warrington
was in favour of the European costume; but as we supposed it to have
been founded on the experience of journeys in the neighbourhood
of Tripoly only, within the immediate range of the Bashaw’s
authority, and in places where the natives are more accustomed to
the dress; we thought it most advisable to adopt the advice of
our Turkish friends, which we knew to be formed on an extensive
acquaintance with the prejudices, manners, and customs of the Arabs:
this opinion, besides, had the additional recommendation of being
quite in unison with our own; and it is probably not unknown to
some of our readers that a similar coincidence has usually its
weight in decisions of much more importance. The experience of our
journey through the Syrtis and Cyrenaica confirmed us still more
decidedly in our former opinion; and as the propriety of adopting
the Turkish costume has occasionally been questioned and denied,
we will venture to add our testimony in its favour to that of all
the most experienced travellers in Mahometan countries with whom
we have ever been acquainted; so far, at least, as the adoption of
it is in question, in places where the principal persons in power,
and the bulk of the population are Mussulmen. If it were only on
the score of convenience, we should in most cases recommend it;
and it is certainly the best calculated to prevent interruption,
and all the numerous annoyances arising from idle curiosity and
the prejudices of an ignorant people.
On our return, one morning, from a visit to the Bazar, where we
had been making some purchases necessary for our journey, we found
our apartment occupied by the Bedouin Arabs who had been appointed
by the Bashaw to attend us to Bengazi. They had been ranged by our
servant on chairs round the room, on which they did not appear to
sit much at their ease; and some of them had relinquished their
exalted situation for the more convenient level which the chairs
themselves occupied, that safe and comfortable position, the ground:
here they squatted themselves down with true Arab dignity, and soon
found themselves much more at home. There was little in the dress
of these swarthy personages by which one might be distinguished
from the rest. An ample baracàn, fastened in the usual Arab manner,
partially displayed the large, loose sleeves of a cotton shirt, more
remarkable than usual for its whiteness; a piece of distinction which
is, by Arabs, considered necessary only in towns, and on visits of
more than ordinary ceremony: from a leathern belt was suspended a
case of the same material, containing a brace of long pistols, near
which hung a leathern pouch for powder and ball, and a smaller one
which served as a pocket or purse. A red, or white cap, (for some
had one, some the other,) and sandals of camel’s hide, fastened
with thongs of leather, completed the whole costume. One only wore a
turban; and, on closer investigation, the pistol-cases and pistols
of the person so distinguished appeared to be in better order than
those of his companions. But no difference of attire was necessary to
mark out Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah from those who accompanied him. A
venerable length of beard, in which white was partially blended with
gray, gave an air of patriarchal respectability to his appearance;
and a singular mixture of energy and complacency displayed the wild
and daring spirit which animated him half subdued by the composure
of age, and the decorum which it was necessary to observe on the
occasion: a well-acted smile was playing on his lips, with which his
voice and his manner, when he addressed us, corresponded; but his
large full eye, though its lustre was dimmed by age, was never for
a moment at rest; and wandered unceasingly from object to object,
with a wildness and rapidity very different from the vacant stare
of curiosity so conspicuous in the faces of most of his party.
Shekh Mahommed was at this time nearly sixty years of age, and had
early been very formidable as a robber in the district of Syrt. The
circumstance of his being the head of a Maràbut tribe, joined to the
natural intrepidity of his character, had given him great influence
over the Arabs of his neighbourhood; and the daring character of
his exploits soon obtained for him the appellation of El Dúbbah,
or the Hyæna.
At a more advanced period, when the rigorous measures of the
Bashaw seemed likely to reduce the Arab tribes to subjection,
Mahommed, finding it probably more to his interest, went over to
His Highness’s party; and from his knowledge of the country, and
the interest which he possessed, was enabled to render him very
essential service: he was in consequence established as Shekh of
Syrt, a district of more than two hundred miles in extent. We were
glad to find that Shekh Mahommed was as eager as ourselves for an
early departure from Tripoly; he soon began to enumerate all the
various disadvantages which were to be expected from travelling
in the rainy season over the low and swampy regions of the Syrtis;
and drew such pictures of them as would have determined us to set
out immediately had our movements depended upon ourselves. But
the delays of the tradesmen, who furnished our supplies, and many
others, which could neither be foreseen nor prevented, retarded the
movements of the Expedition; and it was not till the morning of the
5th of November that we were able to set out on our journey. It
may well be imagined that the attractions of Tripoly are neither
very great nor very numerous; and our stay there had been attended
with a good deal of trouble and vexation in making the necessary
arrangements for our departure: but the friendly attentions which
we had invariably received from many of its principal European
inhabitants, as well as from several of its Mahometan residents,
greatly contributed to enliven the monotony of a Moorish town;
and it was not without feelings of sincere regret that we took
leave of our little circle of acquaintance. This had latterly been
increased by the arrival of Dr. Oudney and Lieutenant Clapperton,
of the navy, who were commissioned by Government to make researches
in the interior of Africa; and who were to proceed to Bornou,
by way of Morzouk, as soon as the preparations could be completed
which were necessary for so tedious a journey.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: The practice of cautery is well known to be generally
adopted, and confidently depended upon, by the Arabs and Moors,
as an effectual remedy for almost every disorder. The custom may
be traced to a very remote period, and is alluded to by Herodotus,
(Melpomene, 187,) as peculiar to the Libyan Nomades, the early
inhabitants of a considerable part of the coast of Northern
Africa. The remedy is indeed too indiscriminately applied, but is
not, however, unfrequently productive of good effects. We were
assured by a man at Bengazi, that he had been cured three times
of the plague by the mere application of a hot iron to the tumours
which attend the disease; and if we might judge from the dreadful
scars which remained, his attacks were by no means slight ones.]
[Footnote 2: This officer holds the second place in the Regency, and
is invested with the supreme power whenever His Highness is absent.]
[Footnote 3: Tully observes, “We entered these gloomy passages,
which always seem as if they led to some dreadful abode for the
purpose of entombing the living.”]
[Footnote 4: Reis Moràt, we believe, is a Scotchman, and was
formerly mate of a merchant vessel; but having embraced the Mahometan
faith, and entered the service of the Bashaw, has now, through his
naval skill and abilities, arrived at the head of his profession,
and is much considered by His Highness.]
[Footnote 5: Tea is very generally used by the higher classes
throughout the Regency of Tripoly, and coffee but rarely.]
[Footnote 6: This young man, who is the second son of Sidi Mahommed
d’Ghies, and is also named Mahommed, is an admirable example
of true devotion to the religion of his country, united with the
more extended and liberal feelings of Europeans. He daily visits
the public school where young boys are taught to read the Koran;
and superintends the charitable distribution of food which the
bounty of Sidi Mahommed provides for the poor who daily present
themselves at his gate. Besides his acquaintance with the English
and French languages, he is able to converse with the slaves of the
family in several languages of the interior of Africa; and when it
is considered that Mahometans in general seldom trouble themselves
to speak any language but their own, this proficiency is greatly to
his credit; we should rather, perhaps, say, to the credit of his
father, under whose eye he has been hitherto brought up, and who
is himself well acquainted with the French, and we believe with
several other languages. The elder son of Sidi Mohammed was in
England while we were at Tripoly, and must be remembered by many
of the first circles in London.]