SECTION XX.

_OF TASTE[41]._

Doctor Grew, who has treated of this matter, divides taste into simple

and compound; he mentions the different species of the first, and

calculates the various combinations of the latter, the number of which

exceeds what at first might be expected. Without entering into this

detail, I think that the different tastes residing in the barleys, or

formed by their being malted, and brewed with hops, may be reduced to

the following; the acid, which is a simple taste; the sweet, which is

an acid smoothed with oils; the aromatic, which is the compound of a

spiritous acid, and a volatile sulphur; the bitter, which, according

to our author, is produced by an oil well impregnated either with an

alkaline or an acid salt, shackled with earth; the austere, which is

both astringent and bitter; and, lastly, the nauseous and rank, which

is, at least in part, sometimes found in beers, which have either been

greatly affected by fire, or, by long age, have lost their volatile

sulphurs; and have nothing left but the thicker and coarser oils,

resembling the empyreumatic dregs of distilled liquors not carefully

drawn.

The number of circumstances on which the taste of fermented liquors

depends, are so various, that perhaps there never were any two

brewings, or any two vintages, which produced drinks exactly similar.

But as, in this case, as well as in many others, the varieties may be

reduced under some general classes; the better to distinguish them, let

us enquire which taste belongs to different malt liquors, according to

the several circumstances in which they are brewed.

In beers and ales, the acid prevails in proportion as the malt has

been less dried, and heat was wanting in the extracting water. The

sweet will be the effect of a balance preserved between the acids and

the oils. When, by the means of hotter waters, oils more tenacious

are extracted from the grain, whereby the more volatile sulphur is

retained, the taste becomes higher in relish, or aromatic. If the heat

is still increased, the acids, and the most volatile oils, will in

part be dissipated, and in part be so enveloped with stronger oils,

as the bitter of the hops appears more distinct. A greater degree of

fire will impress the liquor with an austere, rough, or harsh taste;

and a heat beyond this so affects the oils of the grain, as to cause

the extracts to be nauseous to the palate. Besides these, there may

be other causes which produce some variation in taste; as a superior

dryness in the hops; an irregularity in the ordering of the heat of the

extracts; too great an impetuosity or slowness in the fermentation; the

difference of seasons in which the drink is kept; but as these causes

affect the liquor, in a low degree, in comparison to the drying and

extracting heats of the grain, an enquiry into their consequences is

not absolutely material.

Beers or ales, formed of pale malt, in which a greater portion of acids

is contained, with less tenacious oils, are not only more proper to

allay thirst, but in general more aromatic than brown drinks. The oils

of these last, being, by the effect of fire, rendered more compact,

and more tenacious of the terrestrial parts raised with them, are

attended with something of an austere and rank taste. This seems to

be the reason why brown beers require more time, after they have been

fermented, to come to their perfection. The air, by degrees, softens

and attenuates their oils, and, by causing the heterogeneous particles

to subside, makes them at last, unless charring heats have been used,

pleasing to the palate, whereas they were before austere, rank, and

perhaps nauseous.

By means of the thermometer, we have endeavoured to fix the different

colors of malt, the duration of the principal sorts of drink, and

the tendency each has to become transparent. The same instrument

cannot probably have the same use, when applied to distinguish the

different tastes, as these depend on a variety of causes not easy to be

ascertained. Yet something of this nature may be attempted, upon the

following principles.

As the chief circumstance which produces a variety of tastes in malt

liquors, is fire or heat acting on the malt and hops, and the effect of

the air, put in motion by the same element, the table here subjoined

may point out what tastes are in general occasioned by the combination

of these two causes.

A TABLE _determining the tastes of Malt Liquors_.

Heat of Dryness and Predominant

the air. extracting heat. tastes.

80° 119° Acid.

76 124 Ac. ac. sweet.

73 129 Ac. sw.

70 134 Ac. sw. sw. bitter.

66 138 Sw. sw. bitter.

63 143 Sw. bit.

60 148 Bit. bit. aromatic.

56 152 Bit. arom.

53 157 Bit. arom. austere.

50 162 Arom. aust. aust.

46 167 Aust. aust. nauseous.

43 171 Aust. nau.

40 176 Nauseous.

The first column of the table shews the fermentable degrees reversed,

as the hotter the season is, the more fermented drinks tend to acidity,

the direct contrary of which is the consequence of an increase in the

heat, malt or hops are dried or extracted with.

The assistance of this table, though small, ought perhaps not to

be entirely slighted, as it seems at least to shew that the useful

is seldom separated from the elegant, and that a medium between

extremes is most agreeable both to the operations of nature, and the

constitution of our organs.

The impressions of tastes are less in proportion as the drinks are

weak. The strongest wine yields the most acid vinegar. Time wears away

this acidity much sooner, than it doth the nauseousness occasioned

by vehement heats. This circumstance shews how necessary it is, in

the beginning of the process of brewing, to avoid extracts which are

too weak, as from hence, in its conclusion, such would be required

whose great heat would render the drink rank and disagreeable.

That proportion between the salts and the oils, which constitutes

soundness and pellucidity, is most pleasing to the taste, and seems

to be the utmost perfection of the art. As the sun never occasions a

heat capable of charring the fruits of the vine, we never meet with

wines endued with a taste resembling the empyreumatic, which we have

here represented. This error, being inexcusable in any liquor, ought

carefully to be guarded against, and, from what has here been said, we

should learn this important truth, that nature is the best guide, and

that, by imitating, as near as possible, her operations, we shall never

be disappointed in our ends.

APPENDIX.

Though this work has already been carried to a great length, I

hope those of my readers, who may have done me the honor to go

attentively through the whole of it, will pardon me the addition of

a few incidental thoughts and queries. The chain of arts is so well

connected, that researches originally intended for the illustration of

any one of them, can hardly fail of throwing some light upon others.

1. The seed of plants cannot be put in a fitter place, for perfect

vegetation, than when buried under ground, at a depth sufficient to

defend the young shoots from the vicissitudes of heat and cold, and the

disadvantage of too much moisture. The manuring of the earth, and the

steeping the seed into solutions of salts, have been found, in some

cases, to increase the strength of the grain, to correct its original

defects, and to prevent the noxious impressions of a vicious ground.

Plants are made to germinate in water alone, and this experiment so

successfully carried on every winter, in warm apartments, may still be

improved by dissolving salts in the water.--Could the barley used for

malting be put in the ground, its growth would be more natural, and

its oils becoming more miscible with water, by the saline nourishment

derived from the earth, might yield more vinous, more strong, and

more lasting liquors. But as this method is impracticable, would it

be impossible to increase the efficacy of that which is used? Consult

Home on agriculture: might not either nitre or salt petre be added to

the water, with which the grain is moistened? are they not used with

success to manure land? Are not solutions of them in water employed by

the farmer to steep his sowing seed? I barely mention these as some of

the substances, that might be employed in the malting of barley, and am

far from thinking there are none other. Perhaps different salts should

be used, according to the nature of the soil, from which the corn was

produced; but a variety of experiments seems to be required, in order

to discover how far art might in this case imitate and improve nature.

2. A small quantity of malt, at all times, but especially when brewed

in large vessels, parts too readily with the heat which extraction

requires; and, on the contrary, if the quantity of malt be very great,

the heat may not be uniformly spread. A forward beer inclinable to

acidity is often the result of too short a grist; a thick, stubborn,

and rank liquor many times is produced from too large a one. Every

advantage may be had in brewing, properly, five or six quarters of

malt; it is difficult to succeed if the number exceeds fifty.

3. The strong pungent volatile spirit, which exhales from a must, when

under full fermentation, has been supposed to be a loss, which might

be prevented; and accordingly attempts have been made to retain these

flying impetuous particles, by stopping the communication between the

atmosphere and the fermenting drink. That there is a dispersion of

spirits is beyond doubt, and that these exhaling vapors consist of the

finest oils, which the heat forces out of the must, is equally certain.

But this loss seems to be abundantly repaid by the stronger oils,

which the same degree of heat attenuates and substitutes, in a larger

quantity, to the former. The last oils could never come under the form

of a vinous liquor, but by a power, which sooner or later dissipates

some of the first. Pale ales or amber not only lay, for many days,

exposed to the open air, but suffer, by the periodical renewal of the

action of the air, every two or four hours, a much more considerable

loss of spirits, than when fermentation is carried on uniformly. Yet

experience shews, that so many oils are, by this method, attenuated,

that the strength acquired greatly surpasses that which is lost.

4. The practice of fermenting _by compression_, recommended to

distillers, seems, on this account, less useful, than might be

concluded from theory alone; the intent of the distiller, as well as of

the brewer, is to extract the greatest quantity of spiritous oils. It

is impossible to ferment a must _in vacuo_; air is absolutely necessary

to carry on this operation, even a superabundant quantity of oils

admitted into the must, by obstructing the free admission of the air,

impedes fermentation, prevents the wine from reaching pellucidity, and

sometimes is the occasion of its becoming putrid.

5. When the purest spirit is intended to be drawn from the grain,

the fermented wash ought to be suffered to settle, till it becomes

transparent. The dispatch, with which the distillery is generally

carried on, often prevents this useful circumstance taking place,

and occasions a want of vinosity in the liquor. In many cases, the

extraordinary charges of extracting the grist from malted corn, in

the manner, which has been directed for drinks intended a short space

to be kept, and of suffering the fermented wash to be meliorated by

time, until it becomes vinous and spontaneously transparent, might be

abundantly repaid. Yet, if hurry must be a part of the distiller’s

business, he should at least make such extractions as admit of the

speediest fermentation and the readiest pellucidity. He cannot expect

corn spirits to equal the brandies of France, unless his worts are

similar to the wines distilled in that kingdom, where those used for

this purpose are weak, fine, and tending to acidity.[42] He would

therefore secure to himself the greatest probability of success, if

he employed only malted corn in his grist, this of the best kind, well

germinated to form a saccharine basis, slack dried, and resolved,

with weak extracts, to preserve into the must a proper proportion of

vinosity. If he intended this wash to be formed into a pure spirit, it

should be allowed time to become transparent; he might regulate his

extracts by such heats as have been fixed for common small beer, brewed

when the heat of the air is at the lowest fermentable degree, though

perhaps heats less than these, when dispatch is required, might better

answer his purpose, especially as the length used in the distillery

is nearly the same with that which brewers use for the liquor here

referred to. With hot waters to attempt to force from the grain more

strength or more oils, than such as will form a clean tasteless spirit,

is, in the distillery, a real loss and a fundamental error. By too

strong heats, more oils are forced into the must than can be converted

in spirits; and fermentation being, by this over charge, in some

measure, clogged and impeded, a less yield is made, and the liquor

obtained of a rank and often empyreumatic taste.

6. Why are the brandies of Spain inferior to those prepared in France?

The wines of the last country are the growth of a weaker sun; they

contain no more oils than can be assimilated by fermentation, and form

a clean, dry, nutty spirit. The Spanish wines abounding with more

oleaginous than acid parts, this over proportion becomes not only

useless, but hurtful in the still, and produces the rankness observed

in Spanish brandies. The cleanness of the spirit arises, in great

measure, from the weakness of the must, and its vinosity from a less

proportion of oils to the salts. This seems to be the reason why the

most grateful spirits are produced from wines unable to bear the sea,

or to be long kept.

7. The native spirits of vegetables, says Boerhaave, are separated by

heats between 94 degrees, and 212. To obtain the whole of these, the

fire must be gradually increased; for a superior heat dissipates the

spirits raised by an inferior one. Such parts as might be obtained

by 100 degrees, are lost if the heat applied be much greater. It is

true, the parts of vegetables immersed in water, cannot so easily be

dissipated as if they were in open air, yet, by the rarefaction of the

liquid, a proportional evaporation, however small, must ensue, or the

oils raised by a greater heat may so effectually envelope the finer

ones, as to make them hardly perceptible either to our smell or taste.

Thus, though heated water is able to extract all the virtues residing

in the vegetables, the different application of the fire will alter not

only their proportions, but their properties also, when we consider

that pure spirit of wine boils at so low a heat as 175 degrees. If the

above principles be true, that surely must be the cleanest spirit which

is brought over in the slowest and coolest manner; and it is more than

probable, if the rules here laid down be put in practice, the grain of

England will be found to yield spirits that may vie with the brandies

of France, be more pure than those of the Indies, and excel those of

Holland.

8. The vinegar maker is equally concerned with the distiller in the

brewing process. Vinegar is produced in the last stage of fermentation,

when a gross, tartareous, unctous matter, consisting of the coarser

oils extracted either from the grain or the grapes, generally falls

to the bottom of the liquor, and no longer prevents its acidity, or

affects its flavor. Though the best vinegar proceeds either from the

strongest wines or beers, this strength consists in the quantity of

fermentable principles, and not in that of mere oleaginous parts. By

properly adapting the extracting waters, this hurtful impediment may be

removed, and the vinegar from malt liquors become as neat and as strong

as that which is made from wine.

9. As the acid taste of vinegar is the effect of a continued

fermentation, many people have thought it immaterial how speedily the

first parts of the operation were carried on. But violent fermentations

not only dissipate some of the fine oils, which should be retained in

the vinegar, but also cause the must to tend towards putrefaction.

Boerhaave, after he has directed a frequent transvasion of the liquor,

observes that, whenever the weather or the workhouse is very hot, it

is often necessary to fill the half emptied vessels every twelve hours,

not only to procure a supply of acids from the air, but also to cool

the wine, and check the too violent fermentation, which arising in the

half full casks, might dissipate the volatile spirits, before they are

properly secured and entangled by the acid. Hence the liquor might be

sour indeed, but at the same time flat, and would never become a sharp

and strong vinegar.

10. Application and uses have frequently been found for materials,

which before were supposed to be of no value. The grains, after the

brewer has drawn his worts out of them, are generally used for the

feeding of cattle; but I do not know that hops, after boiling, have

been employed to any purpose. Is there nothing more left in this

vegetable, after it has imparted the virtue wanted to the beer? All

plants burnt in open air yield alkaline salts, though in a greater or

less quantity, according to the quality of the plants. Boerhaave says

that those which are austere, acid, or aromatic, yield in their ashes

a great abundance of salts, and these being put in fusion, and mixed

with flint or sand, run into glass. Hops thrown, after decoction, in

no great quantity on the fire, cause the coals to vitrify, or as it

is generally termed, to _run into clinkers_. If therefore the remains

of the hops were burnt in open air, or in a proper furnace, it seems

most likely that no inconsiderable quantity of somewhat like pot ashes

might be obtained, and this, considering the many tun weight of hops

employed in large cities, and thrown away as useless, might become an

object of private emolument to the brewer, and of public benefit to the

kingdom.

FINIS.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Vide Dr. Pringle’s experiments in his book of observations on the

diseases of the army, p. 350, 351 & seq.

[2] There is a very singular exception in regard to iron itself, in

this respect. It is only a certain degree of heat that expands this

metal; (and that much less than any other either more or less dense)

when melted, it occupies a less space than when in a solid form. This

ought to caution us against an entire dependence on general rules,

by which nature doth not appear to be wholly restricted. See Mem. de

l’Acad. des Scienc. p. 273.

[3] See Dr. Lewis’s Philosophical Commerce of Arts, p. 42.

[4] See Martine’s Dissertation on Heat. What the degree of cold was

which fixed mercury at St. Petersburg, I do not recollect.

[5] It requires seven or eight days. (See Dissertation sur la glace par

Mons. de Mayran.) Paris edition, 1749. Page 191.

[6] Lately, indeed, by such intense cold as can only be procured with

the greatest art, and in the coldest climates, mercury is said to have

been stagnated, or fixed.

[7] By Dr. Hales’s experiments made for discovering the proportion

of air generated from different bodies, it appears that raisin wine,

absorbed, in fermenting, a quantity of air equal to nearly one third of

its volume; and ale, under the like circumstances, absorbed one fifth.

[8] In the northern part of England, the usual time of steeping barley

in the cistern is about 80 hours.

40 bushels of barley wetted 1 hour, will guage then in the couch 40 bushels, that

is, if drained from its exterior moisture.

40 bushels ---- 20 hours, ---- ---- 42-1/2 bushels.

40 bushels ---- 40 hours, ---- ---- 45 bushels.

40 bushels ---- 60 hours, ---- ---- 47-1/2 bushels.

40 bushels ---- 80 hours, ---- ---- 50 bushels.

Here the barley is supposed to be fully saturated with the water; and

these 40 bushels of barley, guaged (after 80 hours wetting in the

cistern) in the couch, will be 50 bushels; but when again guaged on

the floor, from the effect of the roots, and sometimes the shoots,

occasioning the corn to lie hollow, here the 40 bushels of barley will

shew as 80 bushels. Vide Ramsbottom, page 113, &c.

[9] Boerhaave Elem. of Chym. Vol. I. p. 195-199. Exp. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12,

and 13.

[10] When the medium heat of the dryness of the malt, and of the heat

of the extracts, are so high as to require the liquors to be forced

or precipitated, in order to become pellucid, part of the oils which

supported them sound, being carried down by the precipitant, they

will be less capable of preserving themselves, after having been

precipitated, than they were before.

[11] I chose this manner of expressing the quantity of moisture

received in ground malt from the air, as it is the most easy for the

direction of the first extract.

[12] Part I. Sect XII. p. 124.

[13] See page 56.

[14] For the properties answerable to the degrees, see page 124.

[15] It may be observed that, in the first and last degrees for drying

malt, sometimes we say one degree more, sometimes a degree less.--The

experiments we have made do not admit of a geometrical exactness,

nor does the practice of brewing require it; small errors in beers

are effectually removed by age, and these variations have often been

adopted in the tables, for the conveniency of dividing into whole

numbers.

[16] See p. 124.

[17] _Purl_, is pale ale, in which bitter aromatics, such as wormwood,

orange peel, &c. are infused, used by the labouring people, chiefly in

cold mornings, and a much better and wholesomer relief to them, than

spiritous liquors.

[18] 152, to which 2 degrees must be added, for what is lost in the

extracts coming away, or 154 degrees, being the heat of the mash for

keeping small beer, after amber; as this number is less than 166

degrees, the last mash of the amber, consequently, in the computation

made, to find how much of the quantity of the liquor used, is to be

made to boil, to give the true degree of heat to the mash of small,

the difference of heat required in this mash, 154, and the heat of the

goods 162 or 8, is to be multiplied by the volume of the goods, and

the product in this case subtracted; whereas, in the operations for

brewing, whose heat gradually increased every mash, it is to be added.

[19] We had rather attribute to this cause, the inferior quality of

the Worcestershire hops, than to what is reported. That some planters

in that county suffer their hops to be so ripe on the poles, that they

become very brown before they are gathered: to recover their color, on

the fire of the kiln they strew brimstone, which brings them to a fine

yellow; the dryness and harshness this acid occasions, they correct by

sprinkling the hops with milk, from whence they bag closer, and require

little straining, but two ingredients more pernicious to the forming

good beers, perhaps, could not have been thought of, than milk and

brimstone.

[20] This rule only takes place for such climates as are of the same

heat with ours; for when drinks are brewed to be expended in more

southern countries, or to undergo long voyages, twenty pounds of hops

to one quarter of malt have been used with success.

[21] If, of the whole quantity of hops grown in one year, one half is

put into bags, whose tare is one tenth of their whole weight, and the

other half is put in pockets, whose tare is one fortieth of their whole

weight; if the excise office allows one tenth for tare upon the whole,

and the excise or weighing officers, are content with one ninth, as by

their marks, and the weight when sold to the brewer, appears to be the

fact; then somewhat like one twentieth part more hops are grown, than

what pays duty, or than the excise officers report to be the case.

[22] Forty shillings per hundred weight, are supposed to be the mean

difference between new and old hops, and ought to be estimated in

proportion to the quantity of old left in hand, and that of new hops

grown, in order to ascertain the value of the last.

[23] B. stands for Barrels, F. for Firkins, G. for Gallons.

[24] When there are but two worts in brown strong, keeping strong,

keeping pale small, or common small, the boiling is to be observed as

marked for the second and third worts.

[25] The small cask, called a _pin_, is one eighth part of a barrel.

[26] By new malt, I understand such, as has not lost the whole of the

heat received on the kiln, and by old, such as is of equal heat with

the air, or such which has laid a sufficient time to imbibe part of its

moisture.

[27] At the time when the first edition of this work was published,

porter or brown beers were brewed with very high dried malts;

experience has shewn to the generality of the trade and to the author,

this practice to be erroneous, the reasons why have before, and perhaps

hereafter will again, be spoken of. In compliance with this improvement

(though between the two proposed brewings, so great a variety will not

appear) I have founded my calculations for porter, on malts dried so as

best will answer this purpose.

[28] B. stands for barrels, F. for firkins, G. for gallons, and the

numbers past the comma, where the inches are expressed, for decimals;

34 gallons are here allowed to the barrel, in compliance to the excise

gauging, as these calculations were made without the bills.

[29] The half degree omitted in this mash will be added to the next.

[30] Different quantities of water are differently affected by the same

portion of fire; when the ebullition is just over, and the surface

of the liquor is become smooth; if some of it is, by a cock, drawn

from the bottom of the copper, where the coldest water always is, the

remaining part, having a greater proportion of fire than before, again

begins to boil, though not affected by any increase of heat.

[31] See page 267.

[32] G. C. stands for great copper, L. C. stands for little copper.

[33] Deduction from the first mash for heat created by effervescence

and hard corns. See the calculation above.

[34] Additions to the mashes on account of heat lost, by the liquor

coming from little copper, and by mashing and standing. See page 293.

[35] The charge of the first liquor is for 11 barrels, with a deduction

of 2 inches, according to the gauges of the coppers, page 221. These

two inches answer to the 8 degrees of heat for the effervescence, hard

corns, and new malt. See computation above.

[36] The second and following mashes are to be charged with as many

more inches of boiling water, as answer to the fourth part of the

number of degrees of heat lost by the refrigeration of the mashes. See

page 294.

[37] In beers intended for long keeping, the fermentation is to be

governed by the heat of the worts or musts, more than by that of the

exterior air.

[38] A must or wort, when under fermentation, from its internal motion,

increases in heat 10 degrees, and no keeping beers, when under this

act, should exceed a heat of 60 degrees; for this reason, worts of this

sort should at first be set to ferment at a heat of 50 degrees, and 50

degrees is nearly the mean of the heats these liquors are impressed

with, when deposited in cellars, from the time of their being formed,

to that of their coming into use. Their long continuance in this

state is the reason why six pints of yeast per quarter of malt is a

sufficient quantity to be used when the heat of the air is at or below

50 degrees. If, through necessity, processes of this sort are to be

carried on when the mean heat of the natural day is more than this, the

quantities indicated in the table will be the fittest rule.

[39] Though the air bubbles produced from malt liquors are more

uniform, as to their size or consistence, than those of natural

wines, yet they are not perfectly so; for this reason, and because it

requires a greater power to cause a wort or must of malt to ferment,

than it does to keep this act continued, after it is once begun, it

is necessary, at first, to apply such a sufficient quantity of yeast

as will obtain this purpose; therefore, one half of the remaining six

gallons of yeast is put to the wort on its first coming down.

[40] The yeast or air bubbles produced from natural wines, vary not

only in their consistence, but also in their volume; so that, in their

act of fermentation, a progressive effect is the consequence of this

want of uniformity. The yeast or air bubbles of barley wines are more

uniform; to imitate nature, it is necessary to apply this principle of

fermentation by degrees, to cause a progressive effect only. Feeding

of drink is the only means to gain this end; thereby the newly applied

yeast maintains the drink in its required agitation, in a similar

manner as the increased heat and action raised by fermentation causes

the air bubbles in natural wines to act and explode, in proportion

to their consistence, and to the quantity of elastic air the bubbles

contain; and so requisite it is periodically to apply more yeast to

this sort of liquor, or regularly to feed it with this enlivening

principle, that, in very hot weather, when this, through carelessness,

has been omitted, I have known this ale to become foxed or putrefied,

and could attribute this accident to no other cause but to a neglect

of this sort, as the worts had been regularly brewed, laid thin in the

coolers, received all the cold the night could give them, and the tun

in which the drink was worked was perfectly clean.

[41] I confess this chapter is rather a matter of curiosity, an

effusion of fancy, than of any use to me known; if I have suffered it

to remain, it has been to shew that when we have long reflected upon

a subject, our ideas often lead us beyond power of practice; and with

this farther view, that, perhaps, it may become of service in the

hands of some more ingenious and more penetrating artist than myself.

However, if I trouble my reader with it, it may be said to be in

imitation of an author far superior to myself in rank and knowledge.

[42] It must be observed, the wines of France in general make the best

brandies, and of these, such which justly are termed green wines, (and

soon would become acid) this leads us to the nature of the grain, and

of the extractions to procure an equal, pure, nutty spirit. Barley,

dried scarcely to the denomination of malt, and extracted with the

lowest medium, or perhaps one inferior to this, most likely would

answer this purpose. I have tried the experiment in a very imperfect

manner, and found it answer beyond expectation.

INDEX.

A.

Page

Acids, what, 2

Air, principal agent in fermentation, 19, 23

---- why it slacks malt, 20

---- is not easily expelled from bodies, 21

---- expelled from worts by long boiling, 84

---- heat of, relative to brewing, 145

Alcohol, what, 2

---- most effectually dissolves resins, 38

Algebraic rules of proportion for mixing cold and hot water, 271-285

Alkali, what, 2

---- its great power as a solvent, 37

B.

Backs _being set_, reason, 306

Barley, defined, 89

---- viscous and replete with acids, 90

---- consequence of its germinating, 90

---- its state in the field, 91

---- Effect of heating in the mow, 92

---- heat which destroys its vegetative power, 92, 93

---- mow-burned, unfit for malting, 93

---- how much it loses by malting, 100

---- may be dried without germinating, 102

Beers, why deposited in cellars, 47

---- best brewed in pure air, 85, 86

Bird, Mr. his thermometer, 43

Body of a wort _not opened_, what, 320, 321

Boiling, how effected, 3

---- necessary for worts, and management, 224

Brandies of France and Spain compared, 353

Brown ale, what, 198

---- stout, what, 199

Burton ale, what, 196

C.

Cellars, temperature, 156, 186

---- management of beer, 331

Cleansing keeping beers, 319

---- common small, 321

---- amber, 325

Cloudy beer, how to be treated, 337

Cocculus Indicus, infamous practice of using it, 340

Cold greatest, at London, 145

Cooling-in explained, 254

Coppers, method of calculating heights, 220

D.

Division of water for a brewing, 235-239

Dorchester beer, what, 200

E.

Earths defined, 33

---- sometimes used in precipitation, 33

Effervescence, whence, 79

Elements, for forming pale beers, 172

---- brown do., 177

---- porter, 178, 180, 245

---- small beer, 190, 248

---- purl, 194

Elements for forming amber, 195, 251

---- keeping small beer, 197

---- pale keeping strong and small, 239

Expansion, singular exception in, 14

---- differs in different fluids, 18

---- of water just boiling, 26

Experiments on Thames, New River, and Hampstead water, 31

Extraction defined, 160

---- four different modes, 163

---- 1st mode, 169

---- 2d ----, 173

---- 3d ----, 181

---- 4th ----, 192

Extracts under and over-heated shew similar signs, 29

F.

Feeding drink, what, 323

Fermentation, what, 6, 66

---- its several stages, 66-73

---- its effects, 78

---- term too generally applied, 78

---- artificial, defined, 80

---- signs and effects, 318

Ferments, what, 84

Fining beers, 336

Fire, nature and properties, 13

---- expands all bodies, 14

---- how it strengthens some bodies, 15

---- loosens the texture of malt, 15

---- preserves bodies, 15

---- how to regulate its degrees, 16

Flowers of wine, what, 311

Foxed, what, 7

G.

Germinating heats of France, Spain, &c., 57-59

---- England, 59

Grapes, their taste in different states, 51

---- under what heat produced and ripened, 51, 55

---- why not produced at Jamaica, 54, 60

---- how to discover their properties, 64

Grey beer, how to be treated, 337

Grinding malt, 157

H.

Hard corns, heat they cause in mashes, 295

Heat, medium of London, 17, 145, 148, 150

---- dissolves more parts than water can contain, 26

---- difference in shade and sun, 52, 156

---- greatest at London, in the shade, 145

Hops, nature and properties, 201

---- whence difference of Worcestershire & Kentish, 203

---- useful in extraction, 213

---- calculation to regulate purchasing, 13

---- imposition on purchasers, 216

---- volume estimated when boiled, 222

---- perhaps useful after being boiled, 356

I.

Incidents causing heat of extracts to vary from calculation, 289

Isinglass, what, 7

---- use and application, 336

L.

Lees of wine, what, 311

Lengths in brewing, explanation, 217

M.

Malting, process, 94, 126

Malts, alter in color the more they are dried, 48

---- incapable of retaining more fire than is in external air, 99

---- cannot be made in hot weather, 103

---- first degree of heat that constitutes them, 105

---- degree which charrs them, 107

---- effect different degrees has upon them, 108-112

---- properties, 113

---- defective, 131-137

---- their virtue in wort contained in amazing small space, 270

Mashes, four, their different heats, 62

---- last heat, 293

Mashing, 286

Maturating and germinating heats, 57-59

Menstruums, doctrine of, 34-38

---- water, oils, and salts, the principal in brewing, 35

Must from grapes, constituent parts, 66

O.

Oils, constituent principles, 35

Old hock, what, 199

P.

Precipitation, what, 9

---- a remedy for diseased beer, 334

Processes of two brewings computed, 271

---- reduced to one point of view, 297-303

Purl, what, 193

Putrefaction, whence, 78

R.

Rain, which most fruitful, 53, 54

Remedies for diseased beer, 334

S.

Salts, a principal menstruum, 36, 37

---- their nature, 37, 38

Sealing hermetically, how performed, 7

Sick beers, how to be treated, 338

Signs general, directing the processes in brewing, 327

Spirits’ pungent, exhaling from a fermenting must, 350, 351

---- of malt might equal those of wine, 352

Spontaneous pellucidity, how produced, 319

Stale beers, how to be treated, 339

Steeping barley, how practised in the north, 94

Stock of beer proper, 331

Stubborn beers, how to be treated, 337

T.

Table of changes of color in malt by heat, 115

---- shewing the age beers will require with medium heats, 119

---- shewing the tendency beers have to become fine, 124

---- shewing medium heat at London at eight in the morning, 148

Table shewing medium heat of the air at London, 150

---- of incidents affecting heat in brewing, 155

---- shewing proper dryness of malt, 162

---- shewing the quantity of fermentable principles residing in malt, 168

---- to determine heat of first and last extract, 170

---- ditto for porter, 175

---- shewing color of grain, 184

---- shewing medium heat of each process, 185

---- shewing heat of first and last extracts in common small beer, 191

---- shewing value of hops in degrees, 208

---- shewing the quantity of hops to a quarter of malt in porter, 209

---- ditto common small beer, 210

---- ---- amber, 211

---- ---- Burton ale, 212

---- shewing the medium price hops should bear, 215

---- of lengths, 219

---- of gauges of coppers, 221

---- of time of boiling each beer, 228

---- of volume of malt to reduce grist to liquid measure, 254

---- shewing great evaporation of water in brewing, 256

---- shewing volume of malt equal to one barrel of water, 267

---- of effervescence of malt, 292

---- shewing the _times_ worts should be let down, 308

---- shewing _heat_ at which they should be let down, 309

---- shewing depth of head in cleansing small beer, 321

---- determining taste of malt liquors, 345

Taste, reason of the difference in malt liquors, 342

Technical terms explained, 1-12

Thermometer, when first known in England, 39

---- its improvements, 40-43

---- assists to discover the heat of bodies when blended, 45

---- discovers the strength of a wort, 47

---- ---- quality of hops, 48

---- absurdity of brewers to reject it, 49

Times proper for brewing, 146

Two brewings, circumstances relating to them brought into one point of view, 297-303

V.

Vegetables, why fit for wines, 74-76

Vinegar of beer equal to that of wine, 355

---- best made from strongest liquors, 355

W.

Waste water in brewing each beer, 230-233

Water, its expansion by boiling, 14

---- becomes of equal heat with the air, 21

---- at what degree it changes to ice, 21

---- boiled, its appearance when froze, 21

---- which makes the strongest extracts, 22

---- being light, a good property, 24

---- great quantities evaporated in brewing, 25

---- its ultimate parts less than those of air, 25

---- necessary to fermentation, 27

---- excellency of drinks too often attributed to, 29

---- how examined, 30

---- its division into worts and mashes, 234-252

Water, boiling--the proper state and time for cooling in, 290

Wines, general definition, 50

---- Tockay and Canary, 52

---- Madeira, 63

---- the most certain signs of their wholesomeness, 86

---- their basis, 160

Worts, sometimes over-hopped, 27

---- height in coppers cast up to fix the length, 223

---- cooling-management, 304

Y.

Yeast, replaces the air lost by boiling worts, 22

---- heat at which it acts, 305

---- nature and contents, 311

---- quantity for small beer, 315

---- ---- strong beer and porter, 316

---- ---- ales and amber, 317

---- bitten, what, 320

The Theory and Practice of Brewing · 第 20 / 20 章