The food of the people must always be regarded as an important element
in estimating the degree of civilization of a nation, and its position
in the social scale. Mr. Macaulay, in his masterly picture of the state
of England at the period of the accession of James II., has not failed
to notice this subject as illustrative of the condition of the working
classes of that day. He tells us that meat, viewed relatively with
wages, was "so dear that hundreds of thousands of families scarcely knew
the taste of it.... The great majority of the nation lived almost
entirely on rye, barley, and oats." (_Hist. Eng._ vol. i. p. 418., 4th
ed.)
It is not uninteresting to inquire (and having found, it is worth making
a note of) what sort of fare appeared on the tables of the upper and
middle classes,--who, unlike their poorer neighbours, were in a
condition to gratify their gastronomic preferences in the choice and
variety of their viands,--with the view of determining whether the
extraordinary improvement which has taken place in the food of the
labouring population has been equally marked in that of the wealthier
orders.
Pepys, who was unquestionably a lover of good living, and never tired of
recording his feastings off "brave venison pasty," or "turkey pye," has
given in his _Diary_ many curious notices of the most approved dishes of
his day. The following "Bills of fare" of the period referred to speak,
however, directly to the point; they are taken from a work entitled,
_The accomplisht Lady's Delight, in Preserving, Physick, Beautifying,
and Cookery_. London, printed for B. Harris, 1683.
"_A Bill of fare for a Gentleman's House about Candlemas._
"1. A Pottage with a Hen. 2. A _Chatham_-pudding. 3. A Fricacie
of Chickens. 4. A leg of mutton with a Sallet. Garnish your
dishes with Barberries.
"_Second Course._ 1. A chine of Muton. 2. A chine of Veal. 3.
Lark-pye. 4. A couple of Pullets, one larded. Garnished with
orange slices.
"_Third Course._ 1. A dish of Woodcocks. 2. A couple of Rabbits.
3. A dish of Asparagus. 4. A Westphalia Gammon.
"_Last Course._ 1. Two orange tarts, one with herbs. 2. A Bacon
Tart. 3. An apple Tart. 4. A dish of Bon-chriteen pears. 5. A
dish of Pippins. 6. A dish of Pearmains.
"_A Banquet for the same Season._
"1. A dish of Apricots. 2. A dish of marmalade of Pippins. 3. A
dish of preserved Cherries. 4. A whole red Quince. 5. A dish of
dryed sweet-meats.
"_A Bill of Fare upon an extraordinary Occasion._
"1. A collar of brawn. 2. A couple of Pullets boyled. 3. A bisk
of Fish. 4. A dish of Carps. 5. A grand boyled Meat. 6. A grand
Sallet. 7. A venison pasty. 8. A roasted Turkey. 9. A fat pig.
10. A powdered Goose. 11. A haunch of Venison roasted. 12. A
Neats-tongue and Udder roasted. 13. A Westphalia Ham boyled. 14.
A Joll of Salmon. 15. Mince pyes. 16. A Surloyn of roast beef.
17. Cold baked Meats. 18. A dish of Custards.
"_Second Course._ 1. Jellies of all sorts. 2. A dish of
Pheasants. 3. A Pike boyled. 4. An oyster pye. 5. A dish of
Plovers. 6. A dish of larks. 7. A Joll of Sturgeon. 8. A couple
of Lobsters. 9. A lamber pye. 10. A couple of Capons. 11. A dish
of Partridges. 12. A fricacy of Fowls. 13. A dish of Wild Ducks.
14. A dish of cram'd chickens. 15. A dish of stewed oysters. 16.
A Marchpane. 17. A dish of Fruits. 18. An umble pye."
The fare suggested for "Fish days" is no less various and abundant;
twelve dishes are enumerated for the first course, and sixteen for the
second. Looking at the character of these viands, some of which would
not discredit the genius of a Soyer or a Mrs. Glasse, {55} it seems
pretty evident that in the article of food the labouring classes have
been the greatest gainers since 1687.
Few things are more suggestive of queries--as everybody knows from
experience--than the products of culinary art. I will not, however,
further trespass on space which may be devoted to a more dignified
topic, than by submitting the following.
_Query._--Does the phrase "to eat humble pie," used to signify a forced
humiliation, owe its origin to the "umble pye" specified above?