CHAPTER X THE TRACKWAYS

_The Three Divisions of the British Pre-Roman Road System--The System

of which Salisbury Plain was the “Hub”: The System Connected with

London: Cross-Country Communications--The Three Factors which Have

Determined Travel in Britain._

i

The origin of the trackways is, of course, unknown, and can only be

guessed at by inference; but their character, and especially the

geographical causes which determined their trace, we can establish on

the largest lines with some accuracy.

We must not lose ourselves in that kind of speculation which has been

so dear to the academies, and which is usually very futile. As to the

order in which the development took place we have no evidence whatever:

for instance, as to the date of the founding of London, or of its size

before the Roman occupation; nor have we similar evidence with regard

to any of the centres of England for the uniting of which roads would

arise. But we have relics of the trackways before us. We have the

geographical conditions almost unchanged, and we have the indication

of Roman roads clearly based upon particular existing trackways, and

therefore suggesting what the scheme was before the Roman engineers set

to work.

Roughly speaking, the British pre-Roman road system fell into three

divisions.

There was, first of all, a division (possibly the earliest to develop

of all) which had for its “hub” Salisbury Plain, and from that centre a

whorl, rather than a wheel, of diverging approaches to the coast.

There was, secondly, the system turning upon the crossing of the Thames

at London as a “hub.” It is this second system which was so largely

developed in the historical period and which still governs our main

roads and railways to-day.

Thirdly, there was the series of cross-communications, of which the

most important by far was the track leaving the Exe and making for the

Humber.

The British trackways formed along these three systems discovered and

used the best passages of the rivers, some of which the Romans changed,

to which they added a certain number, but which, in the main, they

retained. They also indicate, though less certainly, the town centres

which have remained through the centuries the same, and they were also

determined by the main centres of agricultural population and, to a

much less extent, by the presence of mines.

[Illustration: _Part II_, Sketch III, _Probable scheme of_ MAIN ORIGINAL

TRACKWAYS _in_ BARBARIC ENGLAND]

The system of which Salisbury Plain appears to have been the “hub” we

presume to be the earliest because it was dependent almost entirely

upon surface: good going over dry land. It is to be presumed that the

earliest system would be that prevalent when men were less able to

give artificial aid to the Road, to harden it, to construct causeways

or approaches; when they were less able to drain marshes; when they

had not yet cleared forests. Now, of all the soils which make up the

surface of Britain chalk is the best surface for this purpose. It has

two characters which give it this character. In the first place, it is

self-drained and always passable even in our wettest seasons; and, in

the second place, it does not carry tangled undergrowth, and even its

woods (which are not as a rule continuous) are commonly of beech--the

easiest of all woods to pass through in travel, from the absence of

scrub beneath the branches.

It so happens that the chalk is, in this country, distributed in great

continuous lines and compact areas which lend themselves admirably

to the development of an earlier track system. You can follow chalk

with little interruption from the open central space, Salisbury Plain,

south-eastward to the Channel, to the Dorset coast (“Dorset” from the

country of the “Durotriges,” a British tribe whose name survives in

that of the modern county[1]), and the first in order of the tracks

led there. The chalk could equally be followed to the neighbourhood of

Southampton Water. A third line led along the confused Hampshire chalk

to the definite ridge of the Sussex Downs, and so to the harbours of

the Sussex coast and of Kent.

The fourth, with some interruption, led along the north downs to

Canterbury, whence tracks would radiate to the ports of Kent.

A fifth followed the Berkshire Downs and the Chilterns, and so led on

to the Wash and earlier parts of the Norfolk coast, which have now

apparently disappeared in erosion.

The sixth line led with more difficulty (and has been more obliterated

by later Roman work) directly westward to the mines of the Mendips, and

to the borders of the Severn estuary. It could not take advantage of

the chalk beyond Wiltshire, but it had fairly dry going along the ridge

of the Mendips.

The seventh, it must be presumed, though the traces are largely lost,

used the height of the Cotswolds; but here the soil, being oolitic and

not chalk, was much less favourable and the extension northward ceased

earlier.

This system, then, we regard as the earliest of all.

ii

The second system, as I have said, seems to have been connected with

London, but here the later track of the Roman engineers and the

continuous development of nearly twenty centuries has left us little to

go on save conjecture. There are points in that conjecture, however,

which are fairly certain. But there seems to have been, from the

earliest time, communication between north and south on the lowest

crossing of the Thames. Now, the lowest permanent crossing of the

Thames, even before a bridge, was in the neighbourhood of London.

The crossing of a river is determined by the hardness of the land

upon either bank, as we have seen, more than by any other factor. The

lower Thames everywhere had extensive marshes either upon one side or

the other, and usually upon both. At Grays, Tilbury, Erith, etc., the

hard ground approached right up to one bank, but was always countered

by extensive marshes on the other, or by marsh behind gravel, forming

a sort of island of hard land which could not be used for continuous

travel.

The first good crossing-place was at Lambeth, and it is generally

assumed that the earliest of all the tracks took the stream here,

for the alignment of the main approach from Kent through Canterbury,

Rochester, and Shooters’ Hill does not point at the centre of London,

but at Lambeth. This, it is presumed, was the track followed by what

is now Park Lane, and so ultimately north-westward by the Edgware Road

and its continuations to Chester, with a branch thrown off through

the pass between the marshes of the Mersey and the Pennine range

in the district of Manchester, and so on through Lancashire. But at

some very early stage there was established a crossing below Lambeth

in the neighbourhood of London Bridge, even before that bridge came

into existence. It is true that there is here a belt of marsh on the

right bank, but the considerable gravelly hill on the left, or north,

bank there would give an opportunity not to be lost. It had three

great advantages: it was a large area of dry land for settlement; it

had defences all round it--marshy land to the north, the Fleet to the

west, the Lea to the east; it had a considerable area for the drawing

up of boats, and a steep shore for wharfage. Under these conditions,

whenever men could first construct a causeway it would have been worth

while to have been at that labour across the Southwark marshes in order

to establish a permanent crossing by ferry, and later by a bridge,

upon the site of London Bridge. At any rate, from that centre--London

Bridge--at some very early period you get trackways radiating.

There is the main one, in the first place, through Canterbury to Dover

and the Kentish ports. Next, there is the eastern one to Colchester,

along which the chief Roman invasion marched to the capture of that

town, which was the capital of the enemy.

[Illustration: WELSH SECTION, HOLYHEAD ROAD]

iii

Next, we may presume (for evidence is lost, especially under the later

Roman work) there was a track towards the centre of Norfolk. Next there

was some great road going northward east of the Pennines, following

the dry land which skirts the Fens and reaching the great fertile

plain of York, and so on northward through Durham up to the crossings

of the Tyne. Where this original main track went we cannot say. We

know the trace of the Roman road which followed it. We may presume

that the divagations and modifications of this road of the Dark Ages

and the Middle Ages, which ultimately built up our main road to the

north, reverted in some degree to the original track. But the whole

thing is guess-work. One thing seems fairly certain: this eastern road

to the north (the twin to the great north-western road by Chester to

Lancashire) must have split about half way to York, one branch making

directly to the plain of York itself, the other obviously running along

the inevitable ridge which points right north through Lincolnshire to

the Humber. There is here no bridge possible. It is not too broad for

a ferry. But though the Roman road, superseding the earlier trackway,

went on northward, it is a fair guess that the original trackway

stopped at the river.

Of cross roads we have fragments, of course, in the Pennines, but

we know nothing of their history. It is clear that the main cross

communications between the peopled area of the Yorkshire Plain and that

of the Lancashire Plain must have gone over by Shipley--the obvious gap

in the chain. But more we cannot tell. That is the natural way, and

there was, so to speak, no avoiding it. What was mainly used further

south we cannot tell. It was a tangled land. There is no clear and

certain trace of cross communications which must have existed across

the Midlands south of Trent. We do not know what great patches of

wood may here have determined the windings of an original road. There

are no serious obstacles (it is high land and dry, with no marshes or

large watercourses), but there was less reason for continual traffic

here from east to west than there was for traffic from north to south;

therefore there was less “potential” than was created by the traffic on

cross communications further south.

The original system of tracks radiating from Salisbury Plain was

simple. They led, in radiating lines straight and curved, directly

to the lower Thames, to the ports of the Channel, to the southern

estuaries, to the north-east--that is, to the Wash--and to the north

direct by the Cotswolds. But true cross communication was lacking

to this set, and was provided by the great road from the Exe to the

Humber, which still survives in the form of the Fosse Way. It runs

throughout the whole of our history, from very long before the first

records nearly to the present day, and is to-day traceable throughout,

and used in many places as a hard road. This main track was one of the

dominant factors in the character of English travel. It has decayed

under modern conditions because its “potential” has gone. There is

no driving power to-day urging travel from south-west to north-east,

and it is only in partial experiments and the linking up of separate

lines that even our railway system serves that end. But before modern

times the Fosse Way played a very great part. For some reason there

was a perpetual necessity for passing from the south-west--Devon and

Dorset--to the north-east coast. Two permanent potentials, that between

north and south and that between east and west, help to explain the

Fosse Way.

England has always tended to fall into two cross divisions--a northern

and a southern one, separated at first by climate (the northern more

rude, the southern more gentle), then by agricultural conditions, the

northern far less peopled, the southern more peopled and more wealthy;

and to an eastern and western division separated by type of landscape,

to some extent by climate, always to some extent by soil, difference in

race, emphasized whenever an invasion came from the Welsh lands on the

one side or from the North Sea on the other. The Fosse Way broke both

those cross divisions and was a sort of “reinforcement” (as they say in

modern concrete), taking the strain of cross tension across the island.

iv

In this short sketch of what were in some cases certainly, in others

only presumably, the original British main tracks we have to note three

factors which have always determined travel in Britain: the centres of

internal economic production, the ports, and the Channel crossings.

Before the modern industrial system the economic centres of

production were the wheat lands, and these were the open land of

which Winchester was the centre, the Dorchester centre, Somerset,

certain separate centres in the Midlands (separated by great woods

which have disappeared and their exact site not certain), the Cheshire

Plain, the Lancashire Plain, the great Yorkshire Plain, and last,

and most important of all, East Anglia--the central Eastern plain

(Essex in particular) was the granary of the early time in England.

Tracks connected all these places: they also connected the centres of

population with the ports. Every one of the tracks makes ultimately

from port to port. You have a connection through London (earlier

perhaps, as we have seen, through Lambeth) between the port of Kent and

the north-western ports (of which Chester is the great original example

and Liverpool the modern); between the north-eastern ports of the

Humber and the Tyne, and the south-western ports at Southampton Water

and Poole (which was of great early importance, and whence we shall

find a Roman road starting). Further west the mouth of the Exe was a

more important approach to Britain in the past than it is now. You have

also the estuary of the Severn, ill provided with natural harbours but

forming in its upper reaches a harbour of its own, with the peculiar

advantage of the lower Avon, with a secure pool at Bristol approached

by the curious and exceptional gorge at Clifton.

Lastly, you have the great port formed by the crossing place at London,

made, as we have seen, by the tendency of early travel, right up to the

appearance of railways, to penetrate a country as far as possible by

its waterways and to carry cargoes well inland, because water carriage

was so much cheaper than land transport.

The third factor--that of river crossing--also has its effect, though a

lesser one, upon the trace of the old British ways. If, for instance,

you carry along any one of the tracks which follow the chalk you

will see how carefully the water crossings were picked. It is the

characteristic of chalk that the rivers lie transverse to it, cutting

gorges through the hills, and each of these crossing places was chosen

where hard land approached from either side. The chalk (and the sand

associated with it) provides at certain points in the valleys twin

spurs approaching the water on either side; hence you have the track

along the north downs crossing the Wey at St. Catherine’s Chapel (and

alternatively by Guildford); and, again, the Mole at Pixham, near

Dorking, and the Medway at Snodland (with an alternative at Rochester).

The southern track along the Hampshire and Sussex Downs takes the Arun

at a similar advantage and opportunity at Houghton, and alternatively

at Arundel. It takes the Adur at Bramber, the Ouse at Lewes.

This vague sketch of the old trackways is all that we can lay down so

far as their main lines are concerned, and it is very imperfect, but we

must bear it in mind in order to understand the Roman system, which was

largely based upon those trackways and which superseded them.

There was one kind of soil, and one only, which could compete with

the chalk as good going for primitive travel, and that was sand. Had

we sand in continuous lines in Britain it would have given a dry

passage for the trackways, and here and there advantage is taken of it

by such trackways. But sand, in point of fact, is not to be found in

these continuous lines. It comes in patches, and hence we cannot talk

of any one of the great trackways as dependent upon a sandy soil. The

chief exception that I can call to mind in this respect is the run

of the old Pilgrims’ Way--a prehistoric track from the neighbourhood

of Farnham to the crossing of the Mole, near Dorking. Though chalk

lay on the main direction, it seems to have preferred the southern

dry sand to the chalk immediately north of it, and it keeps to the

sand until the cessation of that formation a short distance west of

the Mole. There is here a curious piece of political geology which

has been, I think, of great effect upon the history of England. Had

the ridges of sand through the weald of Sussex been _continuous_, the

weald would have been developed early. Its iron industry would have

furnished a basis for export, and it would have become one of the

centres of population. There are ridges of sand which you can trace

all the way through the weald from close by the Hampshire chalk in the

neighbourhood of Midhurst right away to the valley of the Rother. But

they are not continuous, and the interruptions are formed of deep clay,

impossible to pass in winter. The result of that lack of continuity

has been that no such track ever developed through the weald of Sussex.

Sussex, therefore, owing to the stiff clay of its weald, remained cut

off from the rest of England, and that throughout all the Dark Ages.

It falls out of the national history. Indeed, the linking up of Sussex

with the north was only effected by the Romans at the cost of great

labour through the artificial causeway of the Stane Street between

Chichester and London; and after the breakdown of western civilization

in the fifth century there was no regular approach to the southern

coast from the Thames valley in a direct line. The traffic either

went westward down towards Southampton, Hampshire, Dorset, and Devon

or eastward to the Straits of Dover. The Norman Conquest and the rule

of the Angevins restored Sussex to something of its rightful place in

English communications because the coast of that county lay immediately

opposite the centre of the foreign region which then governed England,

but the interlude was not lengthy. In the later Middle Ages and on

to quite modern times (to the middle of the eighteenth century) the

interruption due to the clay made itself felt again, and only the

railway and great increase of population have been able between them to

restore direct and frequent communication between the Thames valley and

this part of the southern coast.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] Our shires were _probably_ originally British, and later Roman,

divisions.

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