The term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late been
applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread, and many
stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there are more than
one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study and
opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give a
novice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention to
the following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquired
and very beautiful lace produced.
The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch. This
stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a simple
button-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. The whole
beauty of Brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. This
stitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked in
rows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces,
as in the point lace collar, No. 496.
[Illustration: 433. Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace).]
[Illustration: 434.--Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows).]
Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches.
POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left to right,
like Brussels point. Work one loose button-hole, and in this stitch
work four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose
button-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in the
loose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off.
[Illustration: 435.--Point de Venise (Venice Point).]
[Illustration: 436.--Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point).]
PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the same manner
as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose
button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling small
spaces.
[Illustration: 437.--Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point).]
No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to right
as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the
thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed by
the thread (see illustration No. 437); the needle must pass from the
back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring
it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the
cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to
the braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every
open stitch.
[Illustration: 438.--Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point).]
No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as open
point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass
through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left to right;
fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the left
again.
No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same way as
the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in illustration No.
439.
Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. Sew
back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, then
close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that
the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars,
and various patterns may be formed with this stitch.
[Illustration: 439.--Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point).]
No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is worked
backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point de
Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one Brussels, three
point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in the
same manner.
[Illustration: 440.--Point de Grecque (Grecian Point).]
No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This stitch
appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand
and work six point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, every
alternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: Upon the first large or long
stitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de
Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on
to the end of row (right to left).
[Illustration: 441.--Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch).]
3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de
Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles,
5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short,
and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1
short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows
until sufficient of the pattern is worked.
[Illustration: 442.--Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Stitch.]
No. 442. POINT D'ALENÇON.--This stitch is used to fill up narrow spaces
where great lightness is required. Point d'Alençon is worked under and
over in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point
d'Alençon. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain point
d'Alençon, which is clearly shown in No. 443; this twist is made by
passing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working the
knot shown in illustration No. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar.
[Illustration: 443.--Point d'Alençon, with Button-hole Stitch.]
The POINT D'ALENÇON No. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitch
worked over the plain bars.
[Illustration: 444.--Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace).]
No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English Lace is
thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about
one-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting those
already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette
on every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the two
lines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round the
groundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing
threads. No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged.
[Illustration: 445.--Point d'Angleterre (Enlarged).]
No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and effective stitch
looks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed
should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be
filled. 1st row: Work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left,
passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight
and repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work
the same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and
passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in
illustration No. 446.
[Illustration: 446.--Point Turque.]
No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches. It
resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in a
similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight and
parallel lines. (See No. 448.)
[Illustration: 447.--Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch).]
No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning over and
under two threads, forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel
and cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus
produced point de reprise is worked.
[Illustration: 448.--Point de Reprise.]
No. 449.--POINT BRABANÇON (Brabançon Lace) is worked as follows:--Left
to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de Bruxelles
alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1
long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de Bruxelles in the short loose
stitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: Same as first.
[Illustration: 449.--Point Brabançon (Brabançon Lace).]
[Illustration: 450.--Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch).]
[Illustration: 451.--Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise.]
No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not imitated, and
is very effective. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space
to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and
fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in
illustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1
point de Bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass the
needle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, as
shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked. No.
451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a few
stitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork.
No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork for very
fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the same
stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is completed the
work is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under one
twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it out
again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very
effective.
[Illustration: 452.--Point de Tulle.]
No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the prettiest
stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work
correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of diagonal bars in
button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin in
the opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot
where the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice under
and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half
one quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of
drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop
held open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before.
Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the
wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and
parallel lines of thread.
[Illustration: 453.--Mechlin Lace Wheels.]
No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in pattern to
any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it then
takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according to the design. True
escalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches close
together; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitches
would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2nd
row 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall in
diagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), which
gives name to this stitch.
[Illustration: 454.--Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds.]
No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised scrolls,
flowers, &c. This is effected by working over an underlay of coarse
white thread or over fine white linen cords. The wheels are worked by
winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pins
of various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a succession
of close button-hole stitches. These wheels are sewn on to the lace when
completed. The groundwork of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are
called Raleigh Bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes for
groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this handsome lace
is to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick parts
as above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scalloped
button-hole stitch; fill the ground with Raleigh bars, or, as shown in
illustration No. 455, in treble point de Venise, and cut away the linen
from beneath the groundwork.
[Illustration: 455.--Spanish Point Lace (Worked à l'Anglaise).]