Material: Black Shetland wool.
This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern
(commencing at the corner).
1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the
back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.
2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be
increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at
the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the
lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted
lace.
[Illustration: 323.--Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool.]
The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast
on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2
together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in
the preceding row by throwing the wool forward.
3rd row; Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the
wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
knit 5.
4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in
the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13.
5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the
wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.
8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13.
9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2
together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
forward in preceding row, purl 13.
13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.
16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3
times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice
alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.
20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together,
throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
throwing the wool forward in preceding row.
23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together,
knit 7.
24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently
long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted
somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief
is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn
through the knot.
* * * * *
_324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves._
Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk
elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.
This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so
that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other.
The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bone
buttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at
the bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast
on 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not
too loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going
to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch which
has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward,
slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the
25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before.
[Illustration: 324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).]
[Illustration: 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).]
Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as
the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted
and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. The
following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch,
only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work,
with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with
black wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in
the same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three
needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for
each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of
the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch;
the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown
forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gore
with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that a
purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Do
not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with
the one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and
then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes
behind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the
stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together
with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the
wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted
together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite
directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1
stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are
continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossing
takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped
first. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work in
common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins
before the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked in
purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between
two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch
which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the preceding
row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing
the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on the
other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other
front part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. The
crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the
knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the
gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so
that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches
only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the
neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the
front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck are
cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast off
loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the
front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black
wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong side
of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in
button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. The
following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles,
work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the
wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together,
draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on
the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons the
strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom,
and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle.
_326.--Baby's Boot._
Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool;
steel knitting-needles.
This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in
white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper
scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide
them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd
rounds: With red wool, purled.
3rd to 8th round: With white wool.
3rd round: Knitted.
4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool
forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.
5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are
knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3
stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing
of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be
decreased in this round.
6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.
8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted.
10th and 11th rounds: Purled.
12th to 30th round: With white wool.
12th round: Knitted.
13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the
needle in the back part of the stitch.
31st to 33rd round: With red wool.
31st round: Knitted.
32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each
stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in
the next round.
36th to 38th round: With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if
you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped
stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.
[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.]
Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches
untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th
row: With red wool.
48th row: Knitted.
49th row: Purled.
50th row: Knitted.
51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th
round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit
and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end
of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th
row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red
wool.
86th row: Knitted.
87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
2, knit 1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th,
decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of
stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing
them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in
rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round
purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in
the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other
round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9
stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the
decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form
slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part
is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red
stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4
rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside;
then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work
row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to
match.
* * * * *
327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton;
thick steel pins.
Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border,
which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
Then 5 more plain rows.
[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a
stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from
right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more
than from * to the end of the row.
2nd row: Purled.
3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
4th row: The same as the second.
The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The
increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated
in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions
increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other
hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain
this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows,
by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the
28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so
that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these
stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st
row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each
division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th
row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
* * * * *