[Illustration: A Crochet-Needle]
Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials
required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone,
must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are
used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into
a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the
regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of
needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as
bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or
wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never
move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work
must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes,
imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work
patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of
foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the
purl foundation chain.
The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.
[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with
which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for
knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The
crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of
the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the
cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton
from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and
draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast
off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the
cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has
acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made,
take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left
hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of
the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.
[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain
stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st
chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the
cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the
needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last
stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
chain is long enough.
[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.]
ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch,
then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert
the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain
stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch,
wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the
cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding
the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle,
and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain
stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following
crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they
are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make
a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216),
and take it on the needle.
[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part
of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the
back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the
needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The
illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left
quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be
inserted for the next stitch.
[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the
preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a
stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two
loops on the needle.
[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the
preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the
following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of
the preceding row.
[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards
and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together,
which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part
of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is
not worked, however, in the following row.
[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is
worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the
needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in
the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as
a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.
[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223
on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two
upper sides of a stitch.
[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.]
Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round
the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton
out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off
together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round
the needle.
[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has
been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble
stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the
preceding row.
ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble
stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double
long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three
times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the
needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The
two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the
cotton round the needle.
[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this
stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of
the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble,
insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross
treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the
cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and
cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop
formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the
needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the
needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the
2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the
third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2
loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain
stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting,
work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of
foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown
by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
stitch.
[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots
are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of
the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being
placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double
stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as
follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of
the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only
completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble
stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed
as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there
remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see
illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot
the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at
intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.
[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double
crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of
5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5
stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle
between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5
treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1
stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely
without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth
treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the
cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
spot.
[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.]
ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches
divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they
are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).
[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long
treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown
across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the
same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch
of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row
in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the
treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.
[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace
edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain
length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in
the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see
illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a
loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.
[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7
chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch
downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see
illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton
through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3,
missing 3 stitches under it.
[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches
form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain
stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper
chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through
the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle
and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl
stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.
* * * * *