Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for
cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats;
tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the
cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which
incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with
the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of
3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then
work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only
work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl,
fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the
other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next
circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4
double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9
double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the
preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead
of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer
between the larger circles. Then work a circle
[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.]
as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1
purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double
instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton,
15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following
circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15.
Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double,
17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more
like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the
middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round
closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton
together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round
this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of
graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to
the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double,
1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner,
only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the
circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the
number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following
circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the
round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the
centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated
size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns
work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times
alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be
close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is
then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of
the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6
double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and
the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked
in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but
the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In
the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl,
8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these
last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as
to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened
in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen
in the illustration.
* * * * *
59.--_Tatted Diamond_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80
if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.]
This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine
tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6
double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short
distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on
to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on
to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2
double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn
the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times
more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration.
Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole
stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in
illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the
diamond are knotted together.
* * * * *
60.--_Tatted Cravat End_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.
This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted
medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine
cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the
centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the
rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of
both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting
of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to
this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the
other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the
scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to
the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is
joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times
more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on
to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place
where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the
rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on
the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have
been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the
[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.]
preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without
the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as
follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as
follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle
only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long,
8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton
on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of
the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop
another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first
circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop
like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the
scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double
stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut
them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the
circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the
circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half
are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The
completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the
different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be
wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The
medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining
border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of
knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of
the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between
two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace
knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make
another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2
double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has
been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in
illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the
cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and
repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin.
* * * * *
61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No.
40 if desired in a larger size.
[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It is
worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a
tatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle,
consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one,
consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle,
5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from
* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which
the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last
(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the
1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the
same purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the
outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches.
* * * * *
62.--_Cravat End in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 62.--Cravat End in Tatting.]
The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middle
row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left
side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of
the middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small
purl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turned
downwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a
circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times
alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double.
*Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work
close to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of
the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that the
circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1
circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1
Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side
row. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circle
of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row.
Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle
of the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of
the side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of
the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row
of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time
with those of the middle row.
The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen in
illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened
like those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all round
with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those of
the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the
illustration.
* * * * *
63.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or 40
if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 63.--Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged
round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is
worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circle
consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole
stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turn
the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short
distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1
purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knot
consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last large
circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large
and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in
illustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre is
likewise done from the illustration.
64.--_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80.
[Illustration: 64.--Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting.]
The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting,
edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat.
But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look
very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting,
and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen
stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread.
The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch
round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and
the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton.
Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle
consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1
purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground
where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the
first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last
purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same
stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting
of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4
double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted
stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from
#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the
square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the
illustration.
* * * * *